Helpful tip: when using the hole saw to cut plastic buckets, start the drill bit forwards , then reverse to cut the hole backwards. It is a little slower, but it burnishes the edges an leaves them neat and tidy.
It is an injustice how few views this video has gotten in 7 years. Seriously the simplest and super effective bee vacuum ever. Come on UA-cam algorithms you can do better!
here is how u solve the mortality problem with this. put an uncut bucket inside another uncut bucket. cut a hold through BOTH buckets. remove them. put screen inside holes in BOTH buckets. put one bucket inside the other and attach buckethead. turn on and adjust suction power of vacuum by turning outside bucket to partially cover hole of inside bucket to minimal suction necessary. Shalom :)
Just followed your plan with much success. Had a cut out call and the vacuum worked like a charm. No bee soup but like you, we could have used a larger bucket. Thanks for your video.
I made one of these and used it in a cut out. No dead bees in the bucket! I actually made a second bucket because the cut out was so large. I sucked up bees until the bucket was about 2/3 full, switched to an empty bucket and kept on working. The key is to keep your bees cool. Too many bees in the bucket kills them more than the suction. I ditched the hose that came with it and used clear tubing instead. Good vid.
tnx. glad it worked for you. I'll look into the clear tubing. Of course, you know the secret, but a light suction and an easy hand gets the girls to cooperate.
I was skeptical because of the simplicity of this, but it works great! I made one of these this afternoon and used it to remove a hive that had taken up residence in the basement ceiling of a house.
Of course, as demonstrated in the video, a piece of tape over the outside vent can be used to control suction. We didn't have any swarms last year, but I used this beevac on about a dozen swarms the year before with no problem. Certainly didn't "kill" any bees using it.
It seems like builiding two of the buckets for every vac would be a good idea. That way a large swarm won't all be in one bucket and you don't have to do a lot of bee transfer in the middle of vacuming. Maybe a couple of lids with screening too, to help keep them cool. Thanks for the video. It looks quite doable.
Certainly doable. Actually, all of my swarm buckets have at least one screened hole for venting. & all have the screened top. So it's just a matter of closing off enough hole with tape to get a slight vacuum.
I like this system. I have swarms all the time around our house, and I don't keep bees. However, this is certainly a very good start!! Thanks for your informative video.
You need to add a bucket to your system so the bees are not sucked right into the vacuum bucket you will have a much higher survival rate. If you put your vacuum vent it the bee bucket it wroks so much better. All you have to do is add a tank bulkhead and a plastic valve.
It would have been an idea to have used washers on the inside, with the rivet-heads on the outside. I suspect a second screened hole would have been a good idea to ensure the airflow is always reduced to some extent. I've seen a beevac configuration with a second (outer) bucket where the airflow is adjusted by rotating the outer bucket.
I use the size 1 and 1/0 Mustad hooks to freeline for snook ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxzXmlErSqVAEGWFEKO530BvTqFDw53QW3 and they have been fantastic. The points are super sharp, and the hook is small enough to blend with my baitfish, yet large enough to land fish 30" or more. I also use these hooks when I'm pier or surf fishing with my kids. They tend to catch tons of smaller snapper, whiting, and catfish, and we get far fewer gut hooks with these Mustad in-lines, which means more of them survive after release. I was actually using these hooks when I caught my friend too, but I think that had more to do with the bait I was using ;-)
Just one point, how do you get the bees from the bin into the hive, because as I see it as soon as you lift the top off the vac all the bees will fly out.
Do not use the vacuum tube that comes with the bucket head. It isn't smooth and will hurt or kill the bees as they are being sucked through. Buy a rubber 1.25" clear tubing at Home Depot. It fits right into the vacuum and gives the bees a smooth ride into the bucket. I have a video of the one I made. Search for The 5th Journey UA-cam profile and look under the Bees folder on the channel.
Could you just make a bunch of small holes (1/8) in the bucket to regulate flow? Instead of one big hole with mesh, a lot of smaller than bee size holes without mesh. If you had too little flow, you could just tape some of the small holes from the outside. Also, have there been any issues with the 90 degree angle from the hose to the bucket, as far a bee splatter goes? Any idea on the air speed velocity? I don't know how I would measure it anyway, but it seems good to know.
But one big screened hole and some tape allows you to control the suction, particularly one-handed. I run, usually, with the screened hole uncovered. There is very little suction, so no splatter. The only time I increase the suction is when I'm trying to move the bees from 3 or 4 inches away (like in a crevice). Mostly you're just dislodging the bees and they kind of tumble into the hose when they lose their grip. Suction is so low, that clumps of bees will jamb in the hose, so you have to watch that.
+MelissaBeeFarm I'm very curious about having a delivery system that would allow me to dispatch an army of angry bees upon my enemies. What could it cost to have your vacuum modified so that it has a 'blow' setting?
So after vaccuming Bees up,What do you do next dump them on top of a hive like your installing packages bee's? If they was removed from a house like sofate and u dismantled comb saved it put it in between frames and such then in hive , then Im assuming UD thump them in on top??
Since a swarm is queen right, they can be their own hive. If I missed or killed the queen, you could combine the swarm with another hive. Or just add another queen. I usually requeen a swarm anyway, since she is an p Older Yemen.
1) just add a gate valve over that big ass hole I use a thin piece of ply wood riveted in one corner. 2) build a bee trap to install ahead of vacuum intake. Plenty of videos. If you want a really good bee vacuum system Dadant markets my uncle's design. Look at all components you get from home depot/lowes except the long hose comes from a commercial vacuum supply. +++ You can use the thin wall PVC from the box stores to make any combination length extension vacuum wand unless your of sound body I wouldn't recommend >20ft. I can only imagine that using your design creates a whole new set of problems.
I built this vacuum and used this twice before with great success. I used this today and dumped them into the hive before I was done with the job. The bees were not happy and a lot were on the filter. Unfortunately for me, my bee suit decided to separate at the zipper, and my face and head got bitten but good. Dumping these bees won't work and I need to figure out a better way to get them into the hive.
debjack12 I keep several buckets with vented lids on hand. I just switch the bucket head to a new bucket and put a vented lid on the original. Or, I’ll combine the bees in the vac bucket with those in a second bucket (if it”s a big swarm, remember to add some twigs for the bees to crawl up on to keep them from over heating). If you’re finding a lot of bees on the filter, the vacuum is probably too high. I’d move the tape on the outside & open up the hole, reducing the force of the vacuum.
You need to use a dimmer switch that can control a motor like a ceiling fan. You need one that is large enough for the amperage that the motor will pull. A dimmer switch will change voltage and frequency to control the speed. A dimmer switch designed for a light most likely will burn up.
Hello, excellent invention! But I ask you a question, the bees are not stuck in the blue bag under the vacuum cleaner? Should it be removed? Thanks so much
You could. But with the vacuum adjustment hole on the side of the bucket, cover hole for more suction, uncovers for less, you really don’t have to. I usually set mine so that it just barely “lifts” a bee off of a surface and into the hole. Anything much stronger and you end up with bee purée.
Does the Bucket Head filter the air before it goes into the bucket? I'm hoping it does not otherwise I believe it would filter and probably kill the bees. I have to go over to Home Depot and see one to see how the thing works. I like the idea of it requiring just one bucket if it really works without filtering the bees.
just finished a 2 bucket system with a 3/4" valve on the second (bee) bucket and I killed 80% of the bees with the valve fully open. :( I will probably drill a couple of 2" holes and glue window mesh to lessen the suction on it but yeah 80% fatality is not what we want :(
Use a honey gate to adjust suction... it works really really well!!
Brilliant. I wanted a Bee Vac without too much fuss for making one, this I can handle. Thank You.
Helpful tip: when using the hole saw to cut plastic buckets, start the drill bit forwards , then reverse to cut the hole backwards. It is a little slower, but it burnishes the edges an leaves them neat and tidy.
It is an injustice how few views this video has gotten in 7 years. Seriously the simplest and super effective bee vacuum ever. Come on UA-cam algorithms you can do better!
here is how u solve the mortality problem with this. put an uncut bucket inside another uncut bucket. cut a hold through BOTH buckets. remove them. put screen inside holes in BOTH buckets. put one bucket inside the other and attach buckethead. turn on and adjust suction power of vacuum by turning outside bucket to partially cover hole of inside bucket to minimal suction necessary. Shalom :)
I've watched a lot of "bee vac" videos and this one seems to be the easiest DIY solution.
Me too lol
Just followed your plan with much success. Had a cut out call and the vacuum worked like a charm. No bee soup but like you, we could have used a larger bucket. Thanks for your video.
I made one of these and used it in a cut out. No dead bees in the bucket! I actually made a second bucket because the cut out was so large. I sucked up bees until the bucket was about 2/3 full, switched to an empty bucket and kept on working. The key is to keep your bees cool. Too many bees in the bucket kills them more than the suction. I ditched the hose that came with it and used clear tubing instead. Good vid.
tnx. glad it worked for you. I'll look into the clear tubing. Of course, you know the secret, but a light suction and an easy hand gets the girls to cooperate.
The blue store has bucket vac now as well as buckets and even food safe buckets. Good video very helpful.
I was skeptical because of the simplicity of this, but it works great! I made one of these this afternoon and used it to remove a hive that had taken up residence in the basement ceiling of a house.
Of course, as demonstrated in the video, a piece of tape over the outside vent can be used to control suction. We didn't have any swarms last year, but I used this beevac on about a dozen swarms the year before with no problem. Certainly didn't "kill" any bees using it.
It seems like builiding two of the buckets for every vac would be a good idea. That way a large swarm won't all be in one bucket and you don't have to do a lot of bee transfer in the middle of vacuming. Maybe a couple of lids with screening too, to help keep them cool. Thanks for the video. It looks quite doable.
Certainly doable. Actually, all of my swarm buckets have at least one screened hole for venting. & all have the screened top. So it's just a matter of closing off enough hole with tape to get a slight vacuum.
I like this system. I have swarms all the time around our house, and I don't keep bees. However, this is certainly a very good start!! Thanks for your informative video.
John Dick check craigslist. Beekeepers will clear out you bees for free.
Great, I will try a series of small holes with cork or rubber plugs
You need to add a bucket to your system so the bees are not sucked right into the vacuum bucket you will have a much higher survival rate. If you put your vacuum vent it the bee bucket it wroks so much better. All you have to do is add a tank bulkhead and a plastic valve.
It would have been an idea to have used washers on the inside, with the rivet-heads on the outside. I suspect a second screened hole would have been a good idea to ensure the airflow is always reduced to some extent. I've seen a beevac configuration with a second (outer) bucket where the airflow is adjusted by rotating the outer bucket.
Holy cow I just realized how old this.
I use the size 1 and 1/0 Mustad hooks to freeline for snook ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxzXmlErSqVAEGWFEKO530BvTqFDw53QW3 and they have been fantastic. The points are super sharp, and the hook is small enough to blend with my baitfish, yet large enough to land fish 30" or more. I also use these hooks when I'm pier or surf fishing with my kids. They tend to catch tons of smaller snapper, whiting, and catfish, and we get far fewer gut hooks with these Mustad in-lines, which means more of them survive after release. I was actually using these hooks when I caught my friend too, but I think that had more to do with the bait I was using ;-)
what size hole saw great video
Just one point, how do you get the bees from the bin into the hive, because as I see it as soon as you lift the top off the vac all the bees will fly out.
A piece of stainless Window screen melted into the bucket would be considerably more secure.
Do not use the vacuum tube that comes with the bucket head. It isn't smooth and will hurt or kill the bees as they are being sucked through. Buy a rubber 1.25" clear tubing at Home Depot. It fits right into the vacuum and gives the bees a smooth ride into the bucket.
I have a video of the one I made. Search for The 5th Journey UA-cam profile and look under the Bees folder on the channel.
is a dimmer switch an idea ?
What Size is the hole you drill into the bucket?
Washers inside for the rivets to grab on to would work pretty well
Could you just make a bunch of small holes (1/8) in the bucket to regulate flow? Instead of one big hole with mesh, a lot of smaller than bee size holes without mesh. If you had too little flow, you could just tape some of the small holes from the outside. Also, have there been any issues with the 90 degree angle from the hose to the bucket, as far a bee splatter goes? Any idea on the air speed velocity? I don't know how I would measure it anyway, but it seems good to know.
But one big screened hole and some tape allows you to control the suction, particularly one-handed. I run, usually, with the screened hole uncovered. There is very little suction, so no splatter. The only time I increase the suction is when I'm trying to move the bees from 3 or 4 inches away (like in a crevice). Mostly you're just dislodging the bees and they kind of tumble into the hose when they lose their grip. Suction is so low, that clumps of bees will jamb in the hose, so you have to watch that.
Did you screen the outlet on the vacuum top? It seems the bees could exit the bucket.
Needs a BIG VENTILATION HOLE WHICH WOULD HELP IT BEING TOO POWERFUL ALSO
If you run the drill backwards it won't jerk your hand and make a neat hole.
+MelissaBeeFarm I'm very curious about having a delivery system that would allow me to dispatch an army of angry bees upon my enemies. What could it cost to have your vacuum modified so that it has a 'blow' setting?
what size hole
So after vaccuming Bees up,What do you do next dump them on top of a hive like your installing packages bee's? If they was removed from a house like sofate and u dismantled comb saved it put it in between frames and such then in hive , then Im assuming UD thump them in on top??
Since a swarm is queen right, they can be their own hive. If I missed or killed the queen, you could combine the swarm with another hive. Or just add another queen. I usually requeen a swarm anyway, since she is an p
Older Yemen.
@@rhkennerly usually that old queen is primed to blow out a new hive.
1) just add a gate valve over that big ass hole I use a thin piece of ply wood riveted in one corner.
2) build a bee trap to install ahead of vacuum intake. Plenty of videos.
If you want a really good bee vacuum system Dadant markets my uncle's design. Look at all components you get from home depot/lowes except the long hose comes from a commercial vacuum supply.
+++ You can use the thin wall PVC from the box stores to make any combination length extension vacuum wand unless your of sound body I wouldn't recommend >20ft.
I can only imagine that using your design creates a whole new set of problems.
It's all good
Does this actually work?
you could. easier to cut a hole and screen it then use tape to control the draft.
Sometimes it's the only way to get to the bees in awkward places, like inside walls or crevasses
don't you need to remove the filter and screen the exaust port to vaccum the bees
I built this vacuum and used this twice before with great success. I used this today and dumped them into the hive before I was done with the job. The bees were not happy and a lot were on the filter. Unfortunately for me, my bee suit decided to separate at the zipper, and my face and head got bitten but good. Dumping these bees won't work and I need to figure out a better way to get them into the hive.
debjack12 I keep several buckets with vented lids on hand. I just switch the bucket head to a new bucket and put a vented lid on the original. Or, I’ll combine the bees in the vac bucket with those in a second bucket (if it”s a big swarm, remember to add some twigs for the bees to crawl up on to keep them from over heating).
If you’re finding a lot of bees on the filter, the vacuum is probably too high. I’d move the tape on the outside & open up the hole, reducing the force of the vacuum.
@@rhkennerly interesting bees naturally migrate up.
That would be my hypothesis for this design. I use a bee trap and carry three traps to a job each trap safely holds 3lbs of bees.
Go JP the beeman!lol.
Should have put a washer on the rivet
why not just put a dimmer switch on the vacuum and slow it down?
maybe a motor controller, doubt a dimmer would work. But controlling they tend to run hot over al long, complicated session.
Dimmer switch is a rheostat...or what you're calling a motor controller. And yes, it would work fine.
You need to use a dimmer switch that can control a motor like a ceiling fan. You need one that is large enough for the amperage that the motor will pull.
A dimmer switch will change voltage and frequency to control the speed.
A dimmer switch designed for a light most likely will burn up.
Hello, excellent invention!
But I ask you a question, the bees are not stuck in the blue bag under the vacuum cleaner? Should it be removed?
Thanks so much
You could. But with the vacuum adjustment hole on the side of the bucket, cover hole for more suction, uncovers for less, you really don’t have to. I usually set mine so that it just barely “lifts” a bee off of a surface and into the hole. Anything much stronger and you end up with bee purée.
If you remove the vacuum filter the bees will get sucked into the motor and slaughtered on the way to exhaust.
Does the Bucket Head filter the air before it goes into the bucket?
I'm hoping it does not otherwise I believe it would filter and probably kill the bees.
I have to go over to Home Depot and see one to see how the thing works.
I like the idea of it requiring just one bucket if it really works without filtering the bees.
No it doesn't, the filter is to protect the motor intake
Do you know Melissa means bee in Greek?
That's the reason I chose it. You're the first to comment on that, however.
This entire video is a big commercial for "swivl" lol
oh, just enthused playing with a new gadget. Have you seen the new swivl?
Why cut that big ass hole and screen it when you can just drill a bunch of 1/8” holes? That way no screen or rivets or glue.
Why would they put 🐝 in a vacuum it's sounds evil
to capture swarms, and removing problem bees
just finished a 2 bucket system with a 3/4" valve on the second (bee) bucket and I killed 80% of the bees with the valve fully open. :( I will probably drill a couple of 2" holes and glue window mesh to lessen the suction on it but yeah 80% fatality is not what we want :(
Very hard on the bees....you need to improve your system.
Instead of making a hole in the side and all of that complicated stuff just put a couple inches of water and alittle bit of soap
they are not trying to kill the bees