How to Stop damp on walls - WallRock Dampstop Thermic
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- In this insightful video featuring professional painter and decorator Phil Beckwith, we are introduced to the remarkable solution known as WallRock DampStop Thermic by Mav.
You can buy it off amazon here's a link
amzn.to/3PAP8Js
Phil provides a comprehensive walkthrough of the application process, highlighting the significance of using the DampStop adhesive for both the initial WallRock DampStop paper and subsequent lining or wallpaper you'll be hanging over the DampStop Thermic (foil lining).
Phil emphasizes the effectiveness of WallRock DampStop Thermic in combating damp issues on walls (remember, you may need to source where the damp or problem is coming from first) . This product not only prevent moisture from seeping through but also provide thermal insulation, making them an ideal choice for enhancing the energy efficiency of a space.
To begin, Phil explains that it is crucial to use the specially formulated DampStop adhesive to hang the WallRock DampStop paper. He emphasizes that no other paste will adhere to the silver side of the DampStop paper, ensuring a secure and long-lasting bond.
Moreover, Phil advises viewers to continue using the DampStop adhesive for any subsequent lining or wallpaper applications on the silver side of the DampStop. This step is crucial to maintain the overall effectiveness of the system and ensure proper adhesion.
By following Phil's expert guidance, viewers gain a thorough understanding of the importance of using WallRock DampStop Thermic, as well as the necessity of utilizing the DampStop adhesive for both initial and subsequent applications. This video serves as a valuable resource for achieving professional results and tackling damp issues in a practical and efficient manner.
Amazon Links
1x Roll WallRock Damp Stop
amzn.to/3RLxC6b
1ltr DampStop Adhesive (a rule of thumb, use 1tr per roll of DampStop)
amzn.to/3RNaUKW
other tools I use are in my Amazon Store front.
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Masterclass, thanks Phil!
Wallrocks fibre liner is also a cracking product for traditional lining. Doesn't tear and easy to use....paste wall or paper.
I'm going to be doing a large wall with it soon. Is it easy to trim once up?
@alexthomson7465 very easy. It doesn't rip easily. Lovely to work with. Make sure you size the wall
@@gabegabriel2155 iva already lined it once so this will be a second layer a bit thicker than the first. Would've done it the other way around ideally. Never used Wallrock. Thanks for the info
@alexthomson7465 its a game changer. You can buy 1000mm, 700mm and 500mm widths. I keep large off cuts for crack repairs above doors and windows. A bit like a patch. You paint the patch to harden the paper then fill edges and sand to fether in.
@@gabegabriel2155 so you paint the patch first, let it dry then put it over the crack?
Many of these type of problems are due to the wall temperature being cold which attracts condensation. Micro condensation can form within the structure giving the appearance of stains emerging. Its not always a dampness problem coming through the wall. This seems a good product in that it will keep the surfaces warmer and resist moisture / vapour penetrating through to the structure where it would condense. I recently surveyed an old Victorian property where they experience mould growth in all rooms where there is an external wall. Its the temperature of the wall structure that causes their issue along with drying clothes for a family of 5 indoors. Its a battle of physics.
Thanks for this, I’ve got moisture patches slowly developing on the inside corner of one chimney breast then another small patch inside an upstairs bedroom wall. Its a 1950’s house with a new roof. There’s no mould developing, it just feels damp to the touch. A specialist damp company said the wall is absorbing moisture from the inside. They suggested they’d replaster over these areas at a cost of £3,000! Think I’ll give this a try as the areas are relatively small.
Follow my instructions. It'll save a few quid for now.
Make sure you use the adhesive paste for the damp stop and wall rock fibre lining over it.
We use this stuff all the time, real game changer, we do a lot of regen works in a lot of social housing and almost all properties have damp issues on the breast, although we have used the standard thermic adhesive in the past and are yet to see any damp return through and zero peeling issues and have never overlapped either unless we come to a corner that the thermic can’t be manipulated due to out of square, we don’t always use the fibre liner either depending on quality of the plaster we use a standard wall doctor blown vinyl which also works well for us too
Interesting product and I'm a big fan of Wallrock products.
Surely the correct thing to do is to remedy the damp coming down the chimney? Also, I was always told that any damp in walls - especially in these older houses - the wall needs to breathe to allow any damp/moisture out? By trapping the damp/moisture in it will just move to another area to find it's way out.
It's not damp coming down the chimney, it's the sulphur from the soot penetrating through the brick. You see it on a lot of old properties as it shows the line of the chimney on the outside wall.
Used this system for the first time recently after watching your video. Much easier than the old foil paper , the curly edged frustrating one !. Cheers Phil .
Yeah. That's why it had to be wet in first. But still a pain.
Not going to slag this product off because I don’t know anything about it. However, I do know about buildings. Condensation is a big problem in lots of houses and generally for a couple of reasons. First off, people will air clothes on radiators, that’s a very bad thing to do because the moisture has to go somewhere. Because houses are double glazed and sealed tight as a drum it cannot get out so it goes to the coldest part of the room. Second, houses used to have chimneys, these chimneys were the lungs of the house. If the house can’t breathe then you are going to get condensation. The answer is Ventilation and keep your laundry outside as much as possible. Hope everyone suffering with this problem gets it sorted because it can be a nightmare. 👍👍
I live in a victorian property. You are correct about condensation, but a good dehumidifier will cure that. They are also solid walls, so any damaged bricks, pointing, or limestone lintels will let water access the interior. The best way to combat this is to fit a dry wall system using thermal plasterboard. The problem with increasing ventilation is that it makes the house colder, which forces people to turn up the heating, which in turn creates more condensation. These types of products are just like putting a sticking plaster over a broken bone.
I watched this video with great interest and I think it is practical and very useful especially for DIY enthusiasts like myself. We’ve been dealing with dump problem in our garage area for sometimes and I think this partly could be a solution. Thank you very much for your help!
Tnx. It's not a permanent fix, but it does hold off a problem that is hard to sort out.
Bit of advice to all.
If there's evidence of damp, and i mean no offence in saying this, do not ask a decorator for advice. If you do and the answer is words to the effect of thats not in my skill set then he's a keeper. Sticking, pasting or painting anything over damp is usually holding back the inevitable, which is further works including the removal of whatever the decorator may have done.
Nuff said
and your fix would be?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorFirst I would say good on you for searching out and finding a product that gets the job done, it's all any of us want to do. I'm not an expert but have been in the building trade for many years now and I have seen many attempts to hold back the dreaded damp. I'd say more often than not the damp reappears somewhere, somehow. Unless the root cause is found and fixed all any of these quick fixes are doing is hiding a problem that is most likely getting worse, possibly tracking into areas it didn't previously affect. I mean no offence in making these comments but damp is the bane of many a builder and decorators lives and masking it rather than diagnosing and fixing it is, if you're lucky, going to see the money going in the bank once the job's completed but expect a phone call at some point. Unfortunately the next problem is finding a trustworthy damp proofing expert with a reliable method of fixing the issue. More often than not the problem is being masked not fixed by these guys, making more mess and making more money than using your method. It is a minefield and I accept that I haven't brought much to the table regarding solutions but I see this on a regular basis, I swear my bad neck is due to shaking my head at people pretending to know how to fix this problem.
@@straty5598 did you watch the full video on why I was using this product and what I said about damp in the video too?
As you mention and as said. This isn't a problem solving product for 'damp' as in water leaks.
We come across many a period property that has damp on walls (remember rising damp only goes as far as 1 metre up from ground level) which the root source can't be assatained.
So this product helps the customer acheive the fix it need for that time.
again... all this is covered in watching the full video.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah I watched it, good to see someone that takes a bit pride in what they do. However my point is the root cause can always be found by a pro, finding a pro with a reliable fix is the problem and masking it no matter how well intended is not for me I'm afraid.
@@straty5598 how do they clean outthe chimney of all the soot from a 150yr old house and wash it out and stop the penertation of the sulphur/soot through the chimney breast which then causes the marks on the inner wall and that in turn stains through the wallpaper?
£££££
or use DampStop at a fraction of the price for the customer who is nearly 90. ;)
Another great vid mate. I totally understand why you have used this product in this scenario, however, my only concern regarding its damp proof qualities is, as we all know if you seal damp in, it will only travel along the wall till it finds a way out. I've been decorating 30+ yrs and never had to use the old style foil paper, so very interesting 👍🏻
How have you gone 30yrs and not used damp foil? LoL
I'll ask, what is the alternative to protect finished wallpaper from historical damp?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I've come across it, just never had a job where I had to do it!😆 Like I said, I can understand why you have used it in this context, but honestly if the customer asked for wallpaper on a damp wall I'd advise them against it. Given the prices of wallpaper we're hanging these days, I'd be terrified I'll get a call in 6 months! Not saying you are wrong, or knocking what you are doing, just a theoretical question. Keep up the good work, really enjoy the vids. 👍🏻
they say if you can piss you can paint but im not so sure very skilled job sir nice work sir. to do it right its hard work
Thank you for this. I’m in an old Scottish granite house, bathrooms are a problem.
Rustins have a new eco saving graphite paint which has around 20 % savings which has ECO panels that can be inserted first and an electrical charge is then used to heat the wall using thin copper strips
. Impressive as its very low energy system esp with the rising cost energy..
Very helpful. Just ordered some and will be fitting on Saturday. Will let you know how I get on. Thank you
Fantastic!
Did you use the link in the description?
Just used wallrock paper, brilliant 👍
Great 👍
Cheers Phil yeh Wallrock manufacture quality products, not used that one but have used "Wallrock thermal liner" that a funny experience putting that stuff up, it's like hanging carpet on the wall🤣👍
Nice one
Hi buddy . Looks a real game changer . Will give it ago next time if I get an issue again . Really great product buddy . Thank you sooo much
Fantastic posts a so expertly explained thank you
Absolutely brilliant video and superb instruction. I have however a recommendation to make, if possible, I would advise you to put the words, ‘removal of’ followed by something like, 'salt on walls,' 'salt coming through walls,' and ‘efflorescence on walls’ as I have watched a lot of videos over the months, stating things like just swipe/rinse it off, use white vinegar and baking soda, place a primer over it, perform Himalayan Chants, all which provide temporary solutions because after redecorating, the salt comes back and the paint starts peeling off again. A really frustrating experience.
Two question please, can I apply this directly to a painted wall that has been sanded down or does it have to be applied to a skimmed wall and could I lightly skim over it after applying the 2nd thermal liner?
Again, great content and superb presentation and thank you for taking the time to do this. I hope you get more views and subs as you deserve to.
I remember an exam question at college 30 odd years ago and it asked what do you do with efflorescence on a wall to remove it (the salt deposits).
The answer was use a stiff brush and brush it off as it.
(I knew the answer)
One of the other students said wash it off with water.... Which defeats the object of trying to dry off the wall.
Clearly you need to see where the damp comes from, but in old properties it's one of those mysteries you may never get to to bottom of.
Right, clean down your wall and apply the damp stop like I have.
Once dry. Go over with the wall rock, like I did.
Btw.. it does help if you prime OVER the damp stop with some of the adhesive, thinned down and allow to dry before you apply the WallRock lining paper
No need to skim over it just get it a painted.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks for the quick response I am about to subscribe to your channel and thanks for your content. You are a gift to the world.
Nun’s knickers 😂 Phil you are hilarious
Really well explained. I didn't know this product existed! Cheers Phil
Many thanks. A very comprehensive video. Shall be using this method this coming week. 👍
Glad it was helpful! links in the description to buy ;)
Great informative video lesson. Thanks for all your efforts in making it. Cheers 👌⭐⚡
My pleasure
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it was very helpful. I didn't know whether or not the walls had to be sized first. Plus it's good to know that it stops cold spots. I'm decorating my mother's Victorian house, that has cold parts and attracts condensation in these bits. I'm just about to use this paper as it's worked wonders in my kitchen.
Great video Phil and there might be a light at the end of the tunnel for me now, but can you go straight over the foil with emulsion.
Cheers
Kev.
Nope. Did you watch all the video?
Hi! Excellent vid. We live in an old stone house with a brick front. The whole house was rendered with concrete in the 70s we think. We’re working on some drainage issues around the house which is causing the worst rising damp! Once the house has dried out fully in one or two summers (if we’ve sorted the drainage properly) I’m thinking we’ll do this, or it’s external insulation which will mean knocking off the exterior render and it’s expensive. Anyway, I’m going off on one - what I’d like to know is: as it’s an old house, the walls are well wonky! A feature I am fond of. Would the wall rock be easy to apply onto that or would it be a real b**ch? Would air gaps in the dips and troughs in the walls be an issue in terms of trapped condensation? Hope I’m making sense!
How bad are the walls, it may mold in. Or how about using the plaster multi finish and skim them out to improve them ready for hanging the damp stop?
Check that video out.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator it’s not too bad. We plastered the walls with traditional lime and we’re by no means professional and the walls bere uneven anyway, but now they’re a little on the bumpy and scrapy side 😂🤦♀️ I’ll take a look at that video but as o say, skimming is not something either of us are good at 🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️
If your house is a solid brick wall then you will.need to remove the cement render and replace with a lime render, this will then stop.uour damp issues. Your issue is the cement render and modern materials being used internally stopping your house from "breathing".
@@windsorblade76 it’s a lime stone house but the front of the house is brick. We did all the research and all we could afford to do. The lime plaster was still present on the inside but some got wet and crumbled away so we replaced it with lime again. The paint we used on top is of clay. The inside is basically what it’s always been and repaired respectfully. The outside was rendered with concrete in the 70s. When we were re-rendering/plastering the inside was we noticed that that render was actually filling holes between stones and even some bricks in the front wall!!!! So we won’t be removing the outside render. We have found that the gutter pipe drainage doesn’t go down a pipe any more but straight into the soil along where the one side of the house is wet. Further down that wall we have discovered that our kitchen drainage AND the water pipes are leaking. The previous owner planted trees and plants right up against that wall and as far as we’ve checked, there’s no rubble to help the water drain down. The drainage is the only issue we can address and it’s the only one we really have a issue with. Since we can’t remove the render, I figure that a modernised drainage system, underfloor heating and (once the walls have dried out) internal insulation - OR “damp stop” - would be the only options left.
Hope you were hanging on through all that 😆 of you were, would you have any advice relating to all of that? My thanks
👍👍
Thank you for the video mate.
Enjoyed the video.Well explain
Glad you enjoyed it
Great vid Phil. I’ve used this paper and glue around 8 years ago on a chimney brest. Think they’ve slightly changed the name of it and improved slightly. Good gear tho👌🏻
Was it the Marv WallRock brand?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I can’t remember but I’ve very similar. Works a treat. I’m using some today 😆
@@andrewdavies1813 it may be the original one where you wet the back in. Then overlap the edges. Horrible stuff. Creases up ever so easy.
It's been one year since you've done the job has there been any problems ? Phil👍
Nope
Another video already done of using it elsewhere on a job.
Jeesus, I read the first couple of comments and many think the same...but to add that i rekon the adhesive will break down by the damp/ water content in the problem walls, I'd give it a year before peeling off as I say the adhesive will be broken down by damp...time will tell, re-visit the property to prove me wrong.
Maybe good product to change the temp of a wall to stop mildew growth though.
It's water proof adhesive
I guessed that, I rekon the damp will make the adhesive break down and it will all peel off.@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
I have a newly built single skimmed porch I did protect all the blocks on the inside and on the outside to make sure no damp get through and I have plastered it could I put this over the plaster as an extra precaution and then put lining paper on top only purely because it is a single skimmed porch so I know it will be prone to damp even though I've made sure I've dampened all the bricks and everything else
Yes. Just like I've done in the video using wall rock as the finish lining paper.
Awesome that Phil
Great video, thanks for sharing. Hiw do you apply it to an external corner? Fold over a small overhang just as with regular paper? I'm concerned about leaving an air pocket on the corner.
All explained in the video ;)
The adhesive is making a water proof seal too. So you can cut neat to corners, internal and external...
Don't overlap... It'll give you a fatt edge
"Tight as nuns knickers" 😂.
If you got damp wall’s surely that would push the plaster off the walls underneath the paper
That sounds like a water leak if it's that bad to force plaster off.
I have just spoken to Erfurt the manufacturers of damp stop and they say they only recommend to use behind radiators and not to line over as this negates the foil reflection.
That's correct if you're using it as a reflective paper.
All instructions are here for you.
www.erfurtmav.com/erfurt-mav-wallpaper-products/wallrock/wallrock-dampstop-thermic#hikashop_show_tabular_description
He said not to paint as you would not get a desired finish, so ok if you want your walls bacofoiled. I have since spoken to technical at coveryourwall and they say of course it is decoratable. I think I will use it on a damp staircase wall and cover with fibreliner and the new nursery wall will have KV600 followed with fibreliner. The staircase has no heating from the front door upwards, so nothing to reflect, but the new nursery should retain the heat@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
@@grahamrutledge5277 like I've shown in the video
Have you looked at the WallRock thermic graphite+ lining paper.... That's for keeping heat in. You still love me over it though
Great video. I need to hand this but I have to hang a heavy wallpaper over the top so I have to paint over the foil with the adhesive before I hand the paper and I can use normal paste is that right?
Watch the video again. All is explained on there.
Personally.... I'd line with the WallRock over the foil.. then hang your finish paper.. on the wall rock fibre lining.
Can i put thermal liner on over this then apply wallpaper over the thermal liner
I can't see why not. But wall rock fibre line before a finish paper
I'd ring customer services though to check what adhesive to use with the thermal liner, going over the silver of the damp stop
Thanks Phil, this was really useful! What's the tool called for pressing down paper in the corners?
hi, you nmean the smoother?
If you look in my store front I've a load of stuff to help with wallpapering
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/philbeckwiththeprofessionalpainterdecorator/list/1W3J7ERGBJMSC?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_aipsflist_aipsfphilbeckwiththeprofessionalpainterdecorator_A9XTSDV5A85PR4EWFVYZ
Just covering up the damp. The damp plaster will never dry out and eventually will blow off the wall so will take the foil/wallpaper with it. Complete waste of time. Do it properly take plaster off, apply a membrane and replaster. Just as bad as damp seal paint..
that's not always an option for people.
Well explained thanks good job you done..thanks again
You are welcome!
That is just what I need
I’ve just put this on my walls, leaving to dry for 24 hours but it’s soaking wet! Condensation all over it. Have i done something wrong?! 😮
hi, it does say 48hrs drying.
I’ve left it over 48 hours now but it was soaked with condensation. Is that normal? I just dried it and put lining paper over it.
Just remember, that this is a form of insulation and you may need some for of ventilation or at least check your kitchen and bathroom vents are working sufficiently. Great video and great product for decorators.
Once you lined the wall do you then cover it in adhesive again before painting?
No. No need once the wall rock is on, either hang your wall paper as per instructions on the label.. or you can emulsion over the WallRock lining paper.
Colefax and Fowler say you need to size lining paper prior to hang their wallpapers... Always check what the wallpaper hanging instructions say.
Hi Phil so on top of this we put fibreliner wallpaper and paint it. Is it correct? I was trying to find other video but I didnt find one
Yes. Like a show on the video.
It does say to thin down the adhesive and prime over the silver, allow to dry before you hang the WallRock fibre liner.
Hi Phil, great video.
I have applied wall rock damp stop on a small part of the wall, can I use easifill all over the area to level up with the rest of the wall?
Will easifill stick on it?
I don't think id chance filling over the silver and adhesive.
Wall Rock it and fill over that. Then you're not putting filler on the damp adhesive.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Thanks for you reply Phil.
I am not sure I fully understand your suggestion.
Are you suggesting I add the wallrock line paper on it? In that case I would have the area with wallrock silver and line paper sticking out to the rest of the wall.
Before using the wallrock damp stop I brought the area back to the plaster and by applying the wallrock damp stop I am now at level with the rest of the wall, so I really can't add any other layer.
What would you do?
@@domenicoaumenta3040 you watched the video?
Once the damp stop is on.... And dry (48hrs later)
You line over it with WallRock Fibre Lining... Or a reinforced lining paper like what Brewers sell.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Yes I have watched the video, at is great for an entire wall.
I am looking for advice in regards to a patchy job, where adding the line paper is not an option.
Perhaps there's no solution for the above situation 😞
@@domenicoaumenta3040 can you not re line the whole wall.. even with 800 lining paper?
Hi Phil. Quick question if you don’t mind. I too am a pro decorator but have never used dampstop. So, wardrobe against external wall was moved and wall behind was saturated. All been cleaned off with mould cleaner and am in the process of prepping. When wall is ready I was thinking of hanging dampstop then lining and painting. So will the damp stop prevent the wall becoming wet if wardrobe is put back in same position?? Thanks.
It should do. And be a lot better than it is now.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator morning mate. Thanks for that. Just thinned out wallrock adhesive for the wallrock and straight onto the foil??
@@chrisbeach44 thin for a primer coat. Allow to dry. Then paste the wall and hang the wall rock.
If the wall is cold, you can get the thermal flease style wall rock fibre lining
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator like a size, allow to dry then proceed as normal? Thanks.
@@chrisbeach44 yeah. It helps with applying the adhesive for the WallRock. You'll notice less cissing on the silver if you prime/size it
Apparently you can paint straight over this foil .have you ever tried or have you just lined over it ??
I wouldn't just paint over it, you'll have excessive adhesive on the surface. Which would be a problem to paint on.
Best to line with the WallRock fibre lining over it to give a better surface to paint or wallpaper over.
hi would it reduce moisture meter readings once applied ?
I'd think so, as the foil stops stuff getting through it
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator okay thanks
Hi Phil, I'd like to use this on the bottom of the wall (like where you did the first piece) as this where my issue is. Can I still line paper over it without it making too much of a 'ridge' effect where the paper meets the liner? I couldn't tell how thick the WallRock lining is from the video. Thanks!
Yes. You may need to skim out the ridge edge that will show under the lining paper though.
Do it after the silver damp stop is on and dried, or once you've the lining paper on.
It will depend on what your plans are for decorating. If Painting it, you may want to do it before the lining is on so you don't get a difference in surface between smooth filler and the slight texture of the lining paper.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorThank you so much for the speedy reply. Much appreciated!! 😊
Will this work with rising damp?
Yes. To an extent. If you can't fix the problem. You will need to do what you can to work over it.
If it's bad, I'd double up on the damp stop somit doesn't work it's way through the joints. Slightly overlap the corners too
Great post, would this be suitable for a cold wall? I live in a 1930”s detached house and the external wall cannot keep regular paper on due to condensation especially when the weather gets cold. We have increased the ventilation but it still occurs. Thanks Peter
Yes it will, you can also get a fibre/fabric wall insultion from WallRock as well.
Hi phil. Can you use the wallrock thermal lining adhesive if you can’t get hold of the damp stop thermic adhesive?
Have you a Toolstation near you? Order it via them. Always better to use the correct adhesive.
As the damp stop adhesive is also acting as a barrier for any damp.
Also... If you're using WallRock OVER the damp stop paper.... It does say to thin down the damp stop adhesive and apply that, let it dry THEN hang the WallRock over the top using the damp stop adhesive as well.
I have to say, doing that primer coat of adhesive the day before and letting it dry does make it easier to apply the adhesive when lining over the top.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I ordered the paper from there yesterday but forgot I needed the correct adhesive. Ordered it now. Thanks!
Does the product actually have a u-value? I know its to stop damp but having the word thermic would lead me to believe it has a thermal property also? But no where online can I find the u-value it adds.
Give WallRock a call, they are in Gainsborough Lincolnshire
I would doubt that Building Authority would give a U value rating to this sort of wallpaper system. Manufacturers may claim xyz for marketing spiel, and it sounds good, almost nuclear thermal reactor in fact!!!!!
Phil! I have taken my walls back to the plaster, should I use Zinsser Gardz on the plaster and then use the Wallrock Dampstop Thermic Adhesive?
If they're good. There won't be any need.
You could size the wall over with some thinned down thermic adhesive. Prior to applying it neat tontye wall when hanging the damp stop
Once the damp stop is on... And dry, another thinned coat of the damp stop adhesive applied to the silver of the damp stop makes it easier for when you hang the wall rock.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorappreciate the speedy response! Love all your helpful videos! It's inspiring me to do more of the decorating myself (little nursery project currently on the go for my 1st born)
The plaster/walls look in good condition. I lightly sanded the walls and used a wet sponge to wipe away any dust.
I'll try;
1) Sizing the walls with thinned down thermic adhesive first
2) Wait for that to dry
3) Apply some more adhesive (not sure if thinned)
4) Straight away hang my wallrock dampstop thermic foil paper
When you say "hang the wall rock" do you mean wallrock lining paper? I have gone with the Fibreliner Smooth, hoping that's a good choice...
@@mattyleeboy make sure the damp stop adhesive is neat when you hang the Damp stop paper . And also the Wall Rock fiber lining.
If there was damp on the back wall would be better to overlap the material rather than button it together as the damp may come through the joints
Thanks for watching the video.
I tried convincing potential customers on this stuff a while back but then they d look at prices of the foil.the lining and the adhesive. they weren't happy paying the cash out.they d often say well I might aswell just get plaster taken off.and reboarded.cause after all this stuff then the wallpaper ontop of that it wouldnt be far off
Sorry to hear that. They're not the customers you want.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I'm early retired because of I'll health so I dont have to deal with them anymore more but I'd often get them questioning it.i just used to say well my price is very reasonable .I'd often say get more quotes.dont just take mine but if I'm honest I was alot cheaper than most in my area.didnt matter if I was working on a council house or a big mansion.my day rate/price was always the same so I was very very fair when it came to that side but In the end i was spending hours extra trying to find the best prices on materials for every job.even the high end ones where wanting the cheaper options but without compromising on finish.
@@davidphillips744 it's one price, Materials & Labour = what they pay.
We don't shop around for best materials prices for the customer. Charge them the RRP/over the counter price like they'd pay if they went into teh shop to buy it.
Don't be giving customers 'your' trade discounts.
Have you seen my video on Losing Money?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator .my price only ever changed with inflation and that used to get sone funny looks for returning customers. Alot of them just chancers.find anyways possible to pay less or get out of paying completely.i used to date in invoices that payment was due once job was signed off.the world is just full of greed.i dont see myself as greedy.id help anyone out if I could but some should just try pushing it too far.towtds the end I just used to say to customers to get there own paints but I'd always say choosing the correct paint is key for you cause if it's a very cheap nasty paint then it could need more coats therefore more time and more money in labour.but you know full well how some people just dont have a clue.they d say well paint is paint.what doesnit matter if I get wilko s own or a farrow and ball.for me I'd just suggest simple decent priced ones that I'd used for many years not cheap and not expensive.we all have paints we prefere to use .I d mostly be using basic dulux or valspar .
Conversely, this isn`t the sort of work you need to be getting involved in anyway. If property has damp, cold, condensation issues, creating "padded walls" isn`t really the answer.
I had damp on an internal chimney breast , bottom half , had the chimney sealed and vented as no longer used I’m gonna have to take it back to brick and re plaster is it ok to put this on before the skim coat or is there something better to skim over it with . Cheers
No need to remove the plaster. Use this stuff. Then line it with WallRock fibre liner and paint it, or hang a finish paper. Tye Damp patches won't come through.
All depends on how it`s built and the reason why it`s damp. Don`t just go using undercoat and gypsum plaster or it could be a wasted effort.
Thanks for the video. You can tell a proper tradesman cos they make it look easier.
We have a flat - built 1890s. External facing wall gets cold and atteacys condensation which then creates damp / mould.
Can i paint straight on top or should i use something else on top before painting?
In the corner where it gets cold i want to put a free standi g wardrobe.
Hi. Yeah... Dead easy lol.
Watch the video on what I do .you can then paint over the lining paper.. or hang a paper over it
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator But you can't paint on the silver surface of the Thermal paper?
@@adadses1979 nope.
Hi Phil great vid. Just a question for you! You say about putting lining paper over the damp stop paper and you’ve got to use the damp stop adhesive. Have I got to paste the lining paper in this instance? Just wondering about soaking time and the problems if I paste the wall then apply lining paper dry. Sorry to go on but I’m confused. Cheers 👍🏻
Hi, you saw in the video, I'm lining over the damp stop with WALLROCK lining, as thats what they recommend to use. So you paste the wall with that too.. using the dampstop adhesive,
NOTE: when the foil is on, go over the foil with a slightly thinned down DampStop adhesive as a primer BEFORE you come to do the pasting of the wall for the wallrock.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator ahh! gotcha Phil. Does this mean you can ONLY use that particular lining paper over the dampstop foil?🤔
@@derekwhitaker4905 I would keep to the WallRock, it's so easy to apply and gives a good strong base.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator cheers my friend happy Christmas 👍🏻
@@derekwhitaker4905 they'll be some photos on my Facebook page up over Christmas with how the room transformed
Sorry - what is Guardz and what dies it do?
Thanks!
hi, this may explain it. ua-cam.com/video/0vRSSkwxQNE/v-deo.html
Hi Phil, once applied over the damp plater, will it be alright to dot and dab new plasterboard over the top it as an extra barrier. Cheers
No, don't do that, I don't think that's the idea of it.
Get that plasterboard that has either foil on one side or the polystyrene backing.
Thanks for the quick reply. I can get the standard plasterboard from where I work for nothing so was asking if it could be done this way as a cheaper option than purchasing the 2 types of plasterboard you suggested. Would It still work or is it worth just purchasing the boards with the sealed backs? Cheers
@@alexgudgeon-cw1qv you could give it a go and how about coating the back of the plaster board with a thinned down mix of the water proof adhesive for an extra protection layer?
When you use the diluted glue as a primer how long does it take to dry? And can you use a regular primer on it?
it always stays a bit tacky... depending on room temp it may hae gone off enough after 30mins.
Regular primer on what?
Reguler Primer on Dampstop before painting instead of using the diluted glue
Can you tile over this? I have a small utility room which is only single brick. it gets a lot of condensation in the walls
I don't thimk it's comming from the outside as I have just had it re-rendrerd with silicone render.
Use an Anti Condensation paint or an Acrylic Thermal Paint, over the top of a thermal wallpaper, I used the Acrylic Thermal Paint over the top of the original white emulation paint, then put the card style thermal wallpaper over the top (Bought from Scew Fix) then I over painted this with the Acrylic Thermal paint & it has made a big difference to the guest room! I fitted a far infrared heater panel, before I did this work on the 2 outer facing walls, & it worked well, but the room didn't retain the hear very well (like yours same wall style)
But after doing the above, it retains the heat very well indeed 👍
I suppose you could use the paper here, also but not sure if you'd need something over the top of the silver side, before painting the second layer of Acrylic Thermal paint (2 coats on the wall/ Then Thermal Paper/ Then 2 coats of the Acrylic Thermal paint on top of the paper, both painted horizontal then vertical 👍)
It has made a big difference & no more condensation or mold!
I also added a vent to the door & windows, to help with airflow.
Here's the paint I used (Comes in many colours )
Thermilate InsOpaint ULTRA INSULATION PAINT Advance Energy Saving Paint Keep Room Warm | 5L | Tough Acrylic Emulsion Wall Ceiling Paint (White) amzn.eu/d/a6KBhJM
Here's the paper (linked on Amazon as I couldn't find it at ScrewFix, where I originally bought it)
Lining Paper Insulating Full Roll amzn.eu/d/bkBSZ4Y
I bought a tub if the recommended adhesive, for the paper...
I wouldn't tile, as this will cause a cold surface, where moisture will condense & they will be wet, wet... Wet!
Especially if you currently have a problem with condensation!
My method, along with better airflow stop mine 👍👍
Why did you butt the joints if there is a damp issue. Why not overlap and eliminate possibility of damp come through the joints and on the lining paper?
Watch the video Neil.. all is explained.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator video still not answered my question. why is there an option to overlap if you dont need too? I can understand butting the joints if its used for energy performance, but to stop penetrative damp it would require overlapping? You mention the breast had damp/soot issues therefore would need overlapping?
@@neil30264 it's not like the old pitch paper
Mild damp issues it says you can butt joint, the adhesive acts as a barrier on the joint too. Bad damp you can overlap (create that ridge more so than pitch foil, as this is thicker) or double cross line with it of it's really bad.
I've been using it today 😀 again, damp on a chimney breast in a bedroom.
Hi, I have a room that suffered damp walls due to roof leak, which is now fixed. The worst wall I’ve knock the plaster off, battened and boarded. The other wall is not showing through existing paint but still shows as damp with meter. It does not feel damp. Should I use this or will a fresh coat of paint be ok?
Might be worth letting it dry out, so use an emulsion.
If it doesn't go, you can use this product.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks for the reply. I’m with you. I’ve opened up all air line cracks and the humidity has risen in the room so hopefully this will speed drying time. Great channel. I noticed a good response of yours on Screwfix forum. You advised how best to cover old bitumen on outside walls. I would never of identified that paint you recommended. Would be good to have a video just on specialist paints that can be used in unexpected ways. Cheers 👍🏻
I've used this on an inside wall, that faces outside. I got condensation all over it despite following all the instructions.
In the end I had to paint it with thematic condensation paint called rempro Microsphere technology. No condensation to date.
Hi, if it's a condensation issue you're better using the WallRock Thermal Lining paper
www.erfurtmav.com/erfurt-mav-wallpaper-products/wallrock/wallrock-thermal-liner#hikashop_show_tabular_description
The WallRock DampStop is for wall with damp/staining problems really.
I had the same issue after I applied the damp stop foil. Did you paint on the foil or do I need to put the liner first on it and then paint?
@@skhodja4530 you need to put the fibre lining up very the damp stop.. then paint
Thank you for your quick response.
Got a cold external wall that is prone to paint flaking/condensation/mould. Should I use this or the thermic paper? What's the difference?
the Mav Thermal Graphite Plus is what you want.. you then hang wallrock fibre lining over it.
I have a video going out on how to apply it later on in May.
Thanks! Ended up going for the thermic paper as it is mainly internal condensation rather than from the outside. Fingers crossed or have I made the wrong choice?!
@@user-ge5dn9wl5v you went for the Graphite + one though?
Got the standard wallrock thermal liner? Issue seems to be internal condensation on cold north facing walls rather than damp from the inside out, was recommended by a contact who used it for same issue. Reckon I should swap?
@@user-ge5dn9wl5v this.. www.erfurtmav.com/erfurt-mav-wallpaper-products/insulating-wall-coverings/product/159-insulating-lining-papaer-grapite-plus
Anygood for ceilings
Have you got damp on a ceiling?
Can you emulsion directly over this product? I have seen mention of using a primer, but no-one seems to say what primer might be needed.
where have you seen it mentioned?????
No, follow the instructions and line over it with the wallrock fibre liner then you can paint over that. plus it gives you a better surface to paint on.
I believe you mentioned Guard primer before you applied the glue to the wall.
@@ericalmeida6303 yes that went on fine, as I did the whole room with WallRock
Hi Phil. Can you link the best product to use from Screwfix or B&Q or somewhere which is best for solid stone walls, north facing so cold and damp. Def not rising damp.
insulation lining paper Graphite +
A video is out now on my channel
Can I stick thin mirrors to it ? As it’s a small room and want to create an illusion of a bigger room.
@@user-lw9mp3xf6c i supose. why not paint it white?
Does this work for rising damp? Thanks in advance.
Yes it does
Is that PVA or SBR glue looks like SBR you said get rid of the salt before applying how would you do that because he your gonna rerender you might as well put waterproof in it job done.. I think quite a few of these products over the years only really as good as the glue and if the wall is damp I don't have the glue or hold up
What do you mean PVA glue, where?
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator The adhesive ...is this product really only used for moisture control as in Condensation.. Also PVA is what plasters use to seal a wall, but a lot of people use. SBR glue now. And what would you cover the silver foil? Would you dry line it? Can you plaster straight onto it? With a bonding coat Or multi finish.
@@damprotek I think you need to watch the video
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I did watch the video but you foul to mention how would you get rid of effervescent before you apply this ,you just said it needs to be dealt with which doesn't help anyone.. And why flatten it into the corner just to score it and then pull it off the wall again and then cut it and then put it on again and then flatten it it's a bit of a faf mate .. so you're going to wall paper straight over it I don't care what you replies it just sounds like a sales pitch from salesman
@@damprotek i said early in on the video what I was putting over the Damp stop.
Can you tell me where (minutes/secs) the part about efflorescence so I get the context.
But you can only remove efflorescence by brushing it off.
Can you put normal lining paper over the silver lining ? Cheers
I'd keep to a the non woven WallRock
Thanks buddy
Lining over the top will eliminate the thermal effect,same as painting every thing with aluminium paint, grate for preserving your woodwork etc,reflects damaging uv light, but not very decorative.
I talk about the thermal use in the video.
How thick is the foil paper mate ?
Quite thick
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator🙈🙊
Why not install a dehumidifier commercial size like the air works 65X commercial grade does everything you need less than $800 I have one works awesome
If you've historical damp patches you can't find where the source is, you can throw money and time at it and it'll still be there.
A dehumidifier will just keep pulling damp out the room from other areas... Gaps in old windows.
Chopping walls off and boarding is a big job.
🤠🤠 RIDE EM COWBOY. 😂😂
you get me
Used this stuff and the next day there were bubbles even though there was none when I finished
1, what did you go over?
2, you could have missed areas with the roller applying the damp stop adhesive?
3, there's still paste not dried out, hence it's 48hrs to dry to paper back over it.
Can you paint over it ? Much a roll
Gotta watch the video ;)
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator must missed that part i did watch it bud im multitasking with other stuff lol
@@Niall-q4r line over with WallRock fibre lining... The paint or paper as normal
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator thanks mate
Great channel you have 👍
Why not just take the plaster or drywall off. And put fire rated drywall boards up. This way would save aggravation , money, and you won’t have to worry about rigging it up ever again like you’re doing
This stuff is years old.
DampStop?
This stuff is an absolute nightmare to remove and does nothing to stop condensation. It is not very effective in the long term.
Are you talking about Damp Stop by WallRock?
Have you applied this product?
It's a fabric base, it peels off.
Don't confuse it with the brown pitc/foil paper I talk about at the beginning of the video.
I was referring to the tar paper. Not your product . Sorry for any confusion.
@@Seadog63 I knew you were lol
Surely this is just covering it up and the cause of the damp is better off investigating
As said in the video. Many an old house historic damp can't be traced.
After wallpaper was on the walls next day wallpaper was wet did anyone have this experience
The damp stop it says 48hrs to wallpaper over.
If you then hung the WallRock over the damp stop, it can only dry OUT and not dry by soaking into the surface.
If it's not fully dry, wait.
I only used dampstop wallpaper yesterday and today morning the wallpaper is wet so I don’t know if need more time to dry off
Thank you for your reply
@@agnieszkahohm162 as per instructions... 48hrs to dry
Thank you very much for the advice
Can you skim over it
That’s a large forehead Phil ……..paint it 👍
I guess with energy bills and cold, decorators are going to be tasked with this nonsense more frequently.
Honestly guys, run a mile from doing this to property, there's no need be getting involved in something which needs a more building orientated solution.
what would you do to redecorate that room then?
Or maybe thats's why I've gone to do it lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Decorating would be way down the list of priorities for me Phil. The plaster would be off first job, so I wouldn't actually be decorating the substrate which you are having to deal with.
Clearly someone has already had a pop at this in the past. Time to run for the hills, or run for the pub.
Instead of covering the problem wouldn’t it be more economical to hack the damp areas off & re plaster ?
Your going to paper that wall 3 times & the cost of the products is making the cost of decorating a chimney breast wall into £700/£800 mark & your only covering the problem. Spend the time removing the problem,…a bag of bonding & a bag of plaster finish & u have eradicated the issue & probably cheaper
Total useless way of doing it. Not fit for purpose.
For what reason?
If you know you know,I didn't 😂
How about treating the actual problem rather than temporarily hiding the problem. Pointless expensive
Open to suggestions from experts.
What would you do?
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
First, you would look for a leak, check piping, check ceiling boards, attic, walls for damp rising and so on.
@@bluesteele2235 you've watched all the video though?
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator
Probably skipped abit here and there
@@bluesteele2235 DOH lol
Load rubbish
This is the best stuff I’ve used in years because they’re giving me loads and loads of free stuff proper Builder ????? load of rubbish
Thanks for watching the video to see why it's used and so good.
Fyi. No one has given me it free.