Tip for cutting webbing and cauterizing at the same time: Mark where you want the webbing cut using masking tape (make it so you'll cut at one edge of the tape), put the webbing on a piece of scrap wood, take a razor blade long enough to span the entire cut and put this razor blade in a pair of vise grips and align it so you can press down with the blade while holding with the vise grips and make the cut easily with a straight down, one time press, heat the razor blade on the stove until it is turning red and push into the webbing to make the cut and singe. Looks like it was done in a factory somewhere.
When sewing a Box-X-square there is always one seam you go over twice. For stability, I arrange for it to be the upper one as it bears most of the load, rather than the bottom one like you did.
Just started at a pattern manufacturer and I tend to be a little rusty when it came to slowing down to pivot at turns, but I didn't know I could actually move the side knob of the sewing machine to move the needle and 1 single stitch. I have just been doing the basic sewing machines there but they're probably at some point might ask me to do that stitch for a customer, Thank you for sharing!
Made my first backpack (and major sewing project) a few weeks ago and discovered that counting stitches thing also! Glad to hear that's a proven technique for you too. :)
I make firehose canvas drawstring bags with webstrap hanging loops or handles. I use this same method. I'm storing heavy ropes, straps, rigging hardware, ect. This XBOX fastening method holds up well to abuse and looks good. My awkward tooling is under controll. Consew 227/Juki DDL 5550.
Thank you! I've struggled over and over to find a way to make sure that "Sewing For Guys" can be interpreted correctly as "Sewing to include guys who might not have thought about sewing as a hobby, or for anyone else who might find this more utilitarian type of sewing interesting, including women and girls." That doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, unfortunately :) Thanks for getting it!
Love the tip to count the stitches! I might have missed your saying what your preferred stitch length is for this. Thank you for all the great content!
Thanks! I don't have a particular stitch length preference, I probably average in the 6-7 SPI (stitches per inch) range, but it's not something I put a lot of thought into. It's possible it matters more than I know, but so far, so good!
I got the LSZ-1 back in May. One of the most solid upgrades that I've seen is the monster wheel if you can spare the cash for it. So much easier with that 7 lb weight (and handle) to stitch through stuff. I'm spending so much time on webbing construction I'm seriously considering a bartacker. I probably can't justify it financially, but I can't do that for any other hobby I have either.
I want to spend some time with the machine in its stock configuration so I can do a thorough review, but the Monster wheel is definitely on the list. I've been looking hard at bartackers myself. To do a box-x like this in 3 seconds would be pretty sick. Not financially sound, but sick! Thanks for watching and commenting!
My problem is that I don't need anything incredibly programmable (high dollar). Just something old, solid, and with the stitches I use. I don't know enough about them to know if I am getting what I need, if that makes sense. I do mainly line tacks for PALS and box stitching for webbing interface.
Thank you for this, .y daughter has just got I ti sewing and I got her first machine, I wa ted a good way to sew handles onto her first ever project a tote bag
While seeing you do this makes me think of how much work I have cut out while taking apart various things for materials . I usually take a razor and pull apart whatever it is and start cutting the stitches trying not to cut fabric or webbing . There is most likely a tool for this in the sewing community .
There is, it's called a seam ripper. You will love it and hate it all at once. I have a 2-part video called Sewing Machine Basics, and another called Sewing:Other Tools (or something like that). They're a little old (relatively speaking) but you might find some useful information in those. But yeah, seam rippers are cheap and incredibly useful, both for ripping stuff apart to salvage material (a GREAT way to learn how things are put together, by the way), but also for taking mistakes apart to repair them. Another video of mine, Seam Ripping To Move Stuff, might also be helpful, if you don't mind the gratuitous kitten content.
Thank You for your courteous reply and the plethora of tips and info . I will check the seam video and all the others It won't take me long to catch up .
Is there anywhere to see these bow ties? I like wearing a bow tie from time to time, I tried making one once, but the fabric I used was far too think and it didn't turn out well at all ....
You can see some of my ties and fabrics I haven't yet made into ties at my website. I'd prefer to send the link to your email. You'll receive an email from me later tonight.
New subscriber here. New to sewing as well (have a hand crank Singer 66 coming in a couple of weeks). Perhaps you could expand on the beginner projects if you think it would suit your subscribers? Talk about some of the essential beginning tools like those massive scissors you use. Guy projects like a shaving kit, how to install zippers, camping bag covers, or even a beer holster (joke) would be helpful. Some sort of skill building projects to learn techniques. Anyway, I find your channel very interesting. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks Mark! Thanks for the great suggestions. If you haven't taken a look at some of my older videos on the channel, you might want to check out Sewing Machine Basics (part 1 and 2), Sewing for guys: other tools, and there are a few other easy project videos in there, too. I think I need to re-visit some of these topics and make better videos (I'm constantly learning and trying to get better at this!), but there is some helpful information in there. I mention the massive scissors in the "other tools" video, but in case you're interested, they are pre-1914 Heinisch tailor's shears. Not super rare, but not exactly commonplace, either. Heinisch was bought by WIss in 1914, and Wiss produced the same shears for some time afterwards (and there are a number of other brands that look identical from around that time period). Mine need some work, they only work on thicker fabric (I need to shim the hinge, if I ever get around to it there will probably be a video about it). Anyway, thanks for the suggestions and for being a subscriber! Good luck with your 66, that sounds like a great start! Reach out if you have any questions.
That's interesting that 4 stitches down and 3 stitches across makes 5 stitches along the diagonal. This is slightly off topic from the video, but I tried that with some other sequences on graph paper. It didn't work for 1-2-3, 2-3-4, or 4-5-6, but it got me thinking about other ways 3, 4, and 5 are related. All I could come up with was that 3² + 4² = 5². None of the other higher integer powers worked. Does anyone know if this generalizes to other sets of numbers?
It’s called a Pythagorean Triple. There are a few other primitive sequences that work, such as 5-12-13 or 8-15-17, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_triple
@@GrahamStw Worth nothing that 3-4-5 triangles are "pretty close to square" relative to the others. So for sewing purposes, you'll want to do 3-4-5, 6-8-10, or 9-12-15. Once you are doing bigger than that, you probably don't care if you are off by a stich :-).
A (smelly!) trick I use - glue the strap on the outside with *Barge Cement,* and the same for the fabric doubler on the inside. Stitch around the perimeter of your doubler, also. Yes, it may sound overkill, but I tend to be *very* hard on my stuff.
Hi! The machine is a Sailrite LS-1 (straight-stitch-only, also available as the LSZ-1 with zig-zag). The current version of these machines feature their new WorkerB motor, and the slow speed control is INCREDIBLE, far better than what is seen in this video. I have some videos on it on my channel, and Sailrite has an excellent UA-cam channel that is a fantastic source of information on their machines, their other product offerings, and many sewing project tutorials. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi, thanks for your videos. What sewing machine do you recommend for sewing webbing? I keep hearing you need an expensive industry heavy duty machine like a Juki. I’m hoping I can get away with a cheaper domestic machine like a singer for heavy thick materials. What do you use?
The linked video says it faster than I can type it. The one caveat is at the time of that video, I had no exposure to the Singer Heavy Duty series of machines, and after doing a year-long review of one, I would add that as a good starting point as well. I hope that helps!
Great video, I am thinking of building some bike bags but unsre what sewing machine would be sufficient at sewing cordura 1000 d...any recommendations for a 1st time/second hand machine please? Thanks in advance
Hi Gareth, My usual recommendation is to find a cheap vintage machine, either at a thrift store, garage sale, or craigslist, etc. Older machines (pre-1970 or so) are sturdy and well-built, and there are still parts available for many of them. Vintage machines can be found at prices ranging from $10 to hundreds of dollars (sometimes depending upon whether the seller knows what they are selling). Most vintage domestic machines will handle 1000D Cordura just fine, although they may struggle with getting over thicker seams. A walking foot machine like the Sailrite in this video is great for stuff like that, but they're $650 plus new, and very hard to find used. When shopping used vintage machines, Google is your friend. Singer is the most recognized brand, but there are several other reputable brands. If you find a machine that interests you, Google it to see if it has a good reputation, parts availability, etc. If you don't have a sewing machine at all right now, any working sewing machine will get you started and help you learn. I made my first projects on a 1987 Kenmore that I wouldn't even try to use anymore, but I still have several items that I made with it, and they've held up very well! If you buy an inexpensive machine and find that you've outgrown it, that means you get to buy more machines - I'm currently up to 11 ;) My most recent video is about my new Singer 201, which is widely regarded as the "Rolls Royce of sewing machines." If you can find one of those, or a 15-91, you should be in good shape for quite a while. But again, I think you'd be better served by buying a very inexpensive machine (that works) and start ruining pieces of fabric. If you find you don't like sewing after all, no big loss. I hope that helps! Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Hope you see this cause you put this video out about six years ago. But, what brand machine are you working on ? I've never seen a walking foot such as the one you're using. ( Is that a walking foot ? ) TY for answering if you can. And, TYSM for explaining in detail how to make the "Box - X" stitch.
Hi! The machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 portable walking-foot machine (I also now have the zig-zag version, the LSZ-1). I have a lot of videos about them on my channel, you may want to check those out, as well as Sailrite's excellent UA-cam content. The machines aren't cheap, but they are pretty amazing! Thanks for watching!
Hi! Unfortunately, those came to me with a used sewing machine, and I have no idea where to buy them. These days I rarely use thread snips anymore, I have a pair of shears that I typically wear on my belt when sewing and just use them. There are many thread snips on Amazon that look similar, and might be identical, but I can't say for sure. Sorry I can't be more help, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for taking the time to get back to me. Your content is great. Especially for me who is getting into sewing but not looking for the traditional clothing approach. Keep doing awesome stuff!
Hi Steve, In this video I'm using a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. It is, indeed, a portable walking-foot machine. I have a number of videos on Sailrite machines on my channel if you're interested to know more! Thanks for watching!
I use the sewing machine that Zi bought my wife that I have never, ever seen her use. The speed setting is adjustable in 0.1 increments of the speed of light.
Hi Amy, Thanks! These machines sound that way, at the time of this video it was pretty brand new and lubed by Sailrite. And repeated oiling hasn't changed it. I have a 30-ish-year-old Thompson, this machine's predecessor, and it sounds the same way. But I appreciate the suggestion - I do have a bad habit of neglecting my machines :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hi Jed, In this video, I am using a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 (also available as the LSZ-1, with zig-zag capabilities). VERY capable of sewing most webbing. I have a full review on my channel that you might want to check out. I also have some thoughts I share in my latest video, "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines?" that you might find helpful. The thread is V69 nylon, which is what I use for almost everything. This machine can handle up to V92. I'm not sure what you mean by "suspension trainer," but if you are using webbing to suspend yourself or other people above the ground, MAKE SURE that you know what you are doing, or seek qualified assistance. It is very easy to make something that will work until it catastrophically fails. There are methods to ensure that failures happen in stages to help prevent injury that you might need to employ, depending upon what exactly you are doing. That said, many inexpensive home sewing machines can sew webbing as long as it doesn't get too thick (at seams, for example). I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Hi Jaime, I almost exclusively use bonded nylon thread in size V69, which is what you see in use in this video. (there are several size systems for thread, you can find a chart on The Thread Exchange or Sailrite's websites, among others). V69 is considered the thickest thread to be used in most domestic sewing machines (I've used it without issue in everything I have). I sometimes use V92 in my Sailrite and Thompson machines. I hope that helps, thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Hi, It is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I have a full review on my channel if you would like to know more. I've had the machine for 4 years now and still love it. Thanks for watching!
Hi Scott, Thanks! The machine I use in this video - and in a LOT of my projects - is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. It's a portable, walking-foot machine, and is extremely capable for thicker and hard-to-feed materials. I have a review and an unboxing on my channel you might want to check out if you'd like to know more. I've been using the machine for over 2 years and I love it! Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!
Hi Simon, I have a video on my channel on choosing a sewing machine, you might want to check it out, it goes into more depth than I can here. I definitely recommend a walking-foot machine for those materials (and nearly everything else I sew). I use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1, a Thompson Mini Walker, a Consew 206RB-1 (my main machine these days) and a Consew 225. Any industrial walking-foot machine would be great if you have the space. If you need a portable and can't find something used, the Sailrite is expensive but worth it, in my opinion. The here are clones of the Sailrite for much lower prices, but I don't recommend them (see Sailrite's website for more information). I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks so much! Those are the machines I'm looking at. Consew, Juki, Sailrite. If not for portability it sounds like your favorite is the Consew? I was looking at the Consew RB-5 which seems to be the popular model of theirs. I want to buy a complete package with table, motor, etc. The Consew RB-5 is about the same if not a touch cheaper then the Sailrite LSZ-1 complete package. If You had to choose between the 2 would You go Consew? Simon
I almost exclusively use nylon thread in size 69 (aka v69 or t70). Pretty much every pack I've ever made has been made with it, no issues. I buy thread from The Thread Exchange, their website has a ton of great information. If you haven't seen it, I have a 4-part tutorial on making a backpack on my channel (part four coming this week) you might want to check out if you're thinking of making a backpack and have questions or concerns about it. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Where do you get your fabric? I am looking for denier nylon that is duffel bag grade. I am looking for different colors. Where can I find this since googling does not give the results I need
I often purchase Cordura and similar fabrics from Rockywoods.com. No affiliation, I have bought from them several times and been happy. If you want fabric that is really tough and sturdy, you might look at 1680 denier ballistic nylon. The duffel bag in my duffel bag series of videos is made from that, as well as my brother's messenger bag I recently made (videos on my channel if you want to check them out). 1000 denier Cordura is also a good choice, and will be a little less stiff. Thanks for watching!
Hey there, sorry it took me so long to get back to you! I haven't used Duragrip, so I can't speak to that. With "normal" velcro, I've just sewn it on as normal - although sometimes the tension gets a bit wonky, particularly on the "hook" side (the "harder" side of the velcro, if that makes sense). Are you having any specific issues?
Thanks! The machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I'm working on a full review, but in the meantime you can learn more about this machine by watching my unboxing video. It's a pretty great machine for the kind of projects I like to do! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hmm, don't think we have those in Europe. If you would have any alternative in mind, please let me know! They sure do look great and you don't have to worry about the plastic breaking like in a lot of new "modern" machines :) Thanks for the vid's!
Sailrite sells a machine for the European market on their site. I understand some Euro countries have high import taxes that make importing one very pricey, I don't know if that might apply to you. You can check out their site for more info - www.sailrite.com. There are tons of knock-off machines that look like them, but I suspect the quality will be not as good. Otherwise, I have always recommended used machines in the 1940s to 1960s/early 70s vintage. They're nearly indestructible, capable of sewing pretty heavy materials, and usually can be had pretty inexpensively. The walking foot system of the Sailrite (similar to walking foot industrial machines) makes it far superior for thicker material, especially over thick seams, but you can definitely make useful stuff with a vintage machine. Thanks!
Michiel De Gelder I almost asked the same question glad I scrolled the comments glad you asked and glad to see the reply I just bought a singer heavy duty but I am liking this sew stuff and saved a few bucks I can see upgrading to this machine.
Hi, I almost exclusively use size 69 bonded nylon thread. I tend to not pay strict attention to needle size, just as long as the the thread fits the needle (somewhere in the size 90-110 generally). Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Hi, There isn't a direct answer to that question, since it will depend on your machine, the fabric(s) you are sewing, how many layers of material, what size thread and what size needle you are using. Many of my machines don't have numbers on the tension dial, which is my preference; with a numbered dial, there might be a tendency to select a number and expect a particular outcome, rather than observing the stitch to make sure you are achieving proper tension, regardless of what the dial says. You might already know, but the goal of adjusting the tension is to balance the stitches on top and bottom, so that the "knot" where the upper and lower threads interlock is fully embedded in the fabric. I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Hi! Absolutely, yes you can. Hand stitching is slow, but can be extremely effective. If you are hand stitching in thicker webbing/fabrics, a "sewing palm" might be helpful for pushing the needle through the fabric. Another option would be to use an inexpensive "Speedy Stitcher" aka "Sewing Awl," which would allow you to make the same lockstitch as a machine forms. Various versions can be found (in various levels of price and quality) from Harbor Freight to Sailrite. I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
some reason on my machine , its not getting the box stich corners right, i sink the needle turn the webbing, and the corner looks like its missing the stich, looks like a 45 degree corner.
Have you tried changing your needle? Sometimes a dull, bent or otherwise damaged needle will cause skipped stitches, and it may be just bad enough that it only shows up making that turn. If that doesn't help, it could be timing. Is your tension correct?
Hi, Thank you for the feedback. This is an older video, and while my content is still far from perfect, I've made some improvements since this video was made. No excuses, but I'm a one-man operation, and on a shoestring budget. While I try to make content that is as professional as my skills and equipment can achieve, I am far from a professional and using far from professional equipment. Hopefully the information and my charm can make it worth watching anyway :) Thanks for watching, and I seriously appreciate the critique - I can't know what I need to try to improve if no one tells me!
Hi@@thejasonofalltradesIt not about your content - which is good, it is the audio level differences between your jingle and the actual content. At late hours that can be disturbing and startling to others who are at sleep.
LOL that's awesome! I don't use the 'sewing for guys" thing these days, but back when I started this channel, there was very little sewing content oriented at heavy duty, utility-type sewing, and "sewing for guys" was the best shorthand term I could think of for it. As you demonstrate, it's not the best term to use.I still haven't found the right term, I'm all ears if you have any ideas! I'm glad you got something out of the video. I need to make a tool roll myself! BTW, I'm a welder, too :) Thanks for watching and commenting!
Tip for cutting webbing and cauterizing at the same time: Mark where you want the webbing cut using masking tape (make it so you'll cut at one edge of the tape), put the webbing on a piece of scrap wood, take a razor blade long enough to span the entire cut and put this razor blade in a pair of vise grips and align it so you can press down with the blade while holding with the vise grips and make the cut easily with a straight down, one time press, heat the razor blade on the stove until it is turning red and push into the webbing to make the cut and singe.
Looks like it was done in a factory somewhere.
When sewing a Box-X-square there is always one seam you go over twice.
For stability, I arrange for it to be the upper one as it bears most of the load, rather than the bottom one like you did.
That's a great detail, thanks for mentioning it!
Just started at a pattern manufacturer and I tend to be a little rusty when it came to slowing down to pivot at turns, but I didn't know I could actually move the side knob of the sewing machine to move the needle and 1 single stitch. I have just been doing the basic sewing machines there but they're probably at some point might ask me to do that stitch for a customer, Thank you for sharing!
Made my first backpack (and major sewing project) a few weeks ago and discovered that counting stitches thing also! Glad to hear that's a proven technique for you too. :)
Thanks, this was the best video on the box x stitch. Made my life easier!!
Thank you, I'm glad it helped!
Thank you this will help me fix the strap for my sons stroller!
Thank you this helped me on my project tonight! God bless you
I make firehose canvas drawstring bags with webstrap hanging loops or handles. I use this same method. I'm storing heavy ropes, straps, rigging hardware, ect. This XBOX fastening method holds up well to abuse and looks good. My awkward tooling is under controll. Consew 227/Juki DDL 5550.
I'm a girl, but I watch your videos. Nice work!
Thank you!
I've struggled over and over to find a way to make sure that "Sewing For Guys" can be interpreted correctly as "Sewing to include guys who might not have thought about sewing as a hobby, or for anyone else who might find this more utilitarian type of sewing interesting, including women and girls." That doesn't exactly roll off the tongue, unfortunately :)
Thanks for getting it!
thejasonofalltrades Hahahaha! Maybe you can just put that in the description 🤔😉😂
Me too lol, i want to sew a collar end but i dont know how to thread a machine 😂
Love the tip to count the stitches! I might have missed your saying what your preferred stitch length is for this. Thank you for all the great content!
Thanks!
I don't have a particular stitch length preference, I probably average in the 6-7 SPI (stitches per inch) range, but it's not something I put a lot of thought into. It's possible it matters more than I know, but so far, so good!
I got the LSZ-1 back in May. One of the most solid upgrades that I've seen is the monster wheel if you can spare the cash for it. So much easier with that 7 lb weight (and handle) to stitch through stuff. I'm spending so much time on webbing construction I'm seriously considering a bartacker. I probably can't justify it financially, but I can't do that for any other hobby I have either.
I want to spend some time with the machine in its stock configuration so I can do a thorough review, but the Monster wheel is definitely on the list.
I've been looking hard at bartackers myself. To do a box-x like this in 3 seconds would be pretty sick. Not financially sound, but sick!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
My problem is that I don't need anything incredibly programmable (high dollar). Just something old, solid, and with the stitches I use. I don't know enough about them to know if I am getting what I need, if that makes sense. I do mainly line tacks for PALS and box stitching for webbing interface.
Brilliant! Thank you! Just what I needed! 👍🏽😊
Thank you for this, .y daughter has just got I ti sewing and I got her first machine, I wa ted a good way to sew handles onto her first ever project a tote bag
While seeing you do this makes me think of how much work I have cut out while taking apart various things for materials . I usually take a razor and pull apart whatever it is and start cutting the stitches trying not to cut fabric or webbing . There is most likely a tool for this in the sewing community .
There is, it's called a seam ripper. You will love it and hate it all at once. I have a 2-part video called Sewing Machine Basics, and another called Sewing:Other Tools (or something like that). They're a little old (relatively speaking) but you might find some useful information in those. But yeah, seam rippers are cheap and incredibly useful, both for ripping stuff apart to salvage material (a GREAT way to learn how things are put together, by the way), but also for taking mistakes apart to repair them. Another video of mine, Seam Ripping To Move Stuff, might also be helpful, if you don't mind the gratuitous kitten content.
Thank You for your courteous reply and the plethora of tips and info . I will check the seam video and all the others It won't take me long to catch up .
@@timothythomas1345 There are also half-moon-shaped chirurgical scalpel blades that work really well and can be changed once they're dull.
Top video nice n easy to follow thank you 😊
Great stitch. I use it to attach the ends of elastic on the rare occasions I use elastic. (I mostly just make bow ties.)
Is there anywhere to see these bow ties? I like wearing a bow tie from time to time, I tried making one once, but the fabric I used was far too think and it didn't turn out well at all ....
You can see some of my ties and fabrics I haven't yet made into ties at my website. I'd prefer to send the link to your email. You'll receive an email from me later tonight.
Awesome!
Email sent, sir. Check your spam filter if you didn't receive it.
Awesome learning from you as always, man!
Thanks so much!
New subscriber here. New to sewing as well (have a hand crank Singer 66 coming in a couple of weeks). Perhaps you could expand on the beginner projects if you think it would suit your subscribers? Talk about some of the essential beginning tools like those massive scissors you use. Guy projects like a shaving kit, how to install zippers, camping bag covers, or even a beer holster (joke) would be helpful. Some sort of skill building projects to learn techniques. Anyway, I find your channel very interesting. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks Mark! Thanks for the great suggestions. If you haven't taken a look at some of my older videos on the channel, you might want to check out Sewing Machine Basics (part 1 and 2), Sewing for guys: other tools, and there are a few other easy project videos in there, too. I think I need to re-visit some of these topics and make better videos (I'm constantly learning and trying to get better at this!), but there is some helpful information in there.
I mention the massive scissors in the "other tools" video, but in case you're interested, they are pre-1914 Heinisch tailor's shears. Not super rare, but not exactly commonplace, either. Heinisch was bought by WIss in 1914, and Wiss produced the same shears for some time afterwards (and there are a number of other brands that look identical from around that time period). Mine need some work, they only work on thicker fabric (I need to shim the hinge, if I ever get around to it there will probably be a video about it).
Anyway, thanks for the suggestions and for being a subscriber! Good luck with your 66, that sounds like a great start! Reach out if you have any questions.
Great videos man! Learning alot!
Thank you!
That's interesting that 4 stitches down and 3 stitches across makes 5 stitches along the diagonal. This is slightly off topic from the video, but I tried that with some other sequences on graph paper. It didn't work for 1-2-3, 2-3-4, or 4-5-6, but it got me thinking about other ways 3, 4, and 5 are related. All I could come up with was that 3² + 4² = 5². None of the other higher integer powers worked. Does anyone know if this generalizes to other sets of numbers?
It’s called a Pythagorean Triple. There are a few other primitive sequences that work, such as 5-12-13 or 8-15-17, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_triple
@@GrahamStw Worth nothing that 3-4-5 triangles are "pretty close to square" relative to the others. So for sewing purposes, you'll want to do 3-4-5, 6-8-10, or 9-12-15. Once you are doing bigger than that, you probably don't care if you are off by a stich :-).
Ask Pythagoras!
🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
This will be easier now with the Worker B motor!
Very true!
A (smelly!) trick I use - glue the strap on the outside with *Barge Cement,* and the same for the fabric doubler on the inside. Stitch around the perimeter of your doubler, also.
Yes, it may sound overkill, but I tend to be *very* hard on my stuff.
What type of machine is that . What type and thickness materials can you sew slow like that. I like that
Hi! The machine is a Sailrite LS-1 (straight-stitch-only, also available as the LSZ-1 with zig-zag). The current version of these machines feature their new WorkerB motor, and the slow speed control is INCREDIBLE, far better than what is seen in this video. I have some videos on it on my channel, and Sailrite has an excellent UA-cam channel that is a fantastic source of information on their machines, their other product offerings, and many sewing project tutorials.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Thank you! Will use this to make a harness & pack for my dog.
Hi, thanks for your videos. What sewing machine do you recommend for sewing webbing? I keep hearing you need an expensive industry heavy duty machine like a Juki. I’m hoping I can get away with a cheaper domestic machine like a singer for heavy thick materials. What do you use?
ua-cam.com/video/fFq5QXgF4v8/v-deo.html
The linked video says it faster than I can type it. The one caveat is at the time of that video, I had no exposure to the Singer Heavy Duty series of machines, and after doing a year-long review of one, I would add that as a good starting point as well. I hope that helps!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks!
‘Be careful not to sew it to the other side’
Been there, done that, have the t-shirt.
Can’t wear the t-shirt bc…..
Great video, I am thinking of building some bike bags but unsre what sewing machine would be sufficient at sewing cordura 1000 d...any recommendations for a 1st time/second hand machine please? Thanks in advance
Hi Gareth,
My usual recommendation is to find a cheap vintage machine, either at a thrift store, garage sale, or craigslist, etc. Older machines (pre-1970 or so) are sturdy and well-built, and there are still parts available for many of them. Vintage machines can be found at prices ranging from $10 to hundreds of dollars (sometimes depending upon whether the seller knows what they are selling).
Most vintage domestic machines will handle 1000D Cordura just fine, although they may struggle with getting over thicker seams. A walking foot machine like the Sailrite in this video is great for stuff like that, but they're $650 plus new, and very hard to find used.
When shopping used vintage machines, Google is your friend. Singer is the most recognized brand, but there are several other reputable brands. If you find a machine that interests you, Google it to see if it has a good reputation, parts availability, etc.
If you don't have a sewing machine at all right now, any working sewing machine will get you started and help you learn. I made my first projects on a 1987 Kenmore that I wouldn't even try to use anymore, but I still have several items that I made with it, and they've held up very well! If you buy an inexpensive machine and find that you've outgrown it, that means you get to buy more machines - I'm currently up to 11 ;)
My most recent video is about my new Singer 201, which is widely regarded as the "Rolls Royce of sewing machines." If you can find one of those, or a 15-91, you should be in good shape for quite a while. But again, I think you'd be better served by buying a very inexpensive machine (that works) and start ruining pieces of fabric. If you find you don't like sewing after all, no big loss.
I hope that helps! Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
This is a brilliant response! Thanks for sharing some insights into this.
Hope you see this cause you put this video out about six years ago. But, what brand machine are you working on ? I've never seen a walking foot such as the one you're using. ( Is that a walking foot ? ) TY for answering if you can. And, TYSM for explaining in detail how to make the "Box - X" stitch.
Hi!
The machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 portable walking-foot machine (I also now have the zig-zag version, the LSZ-1). I have a lot of videos about them on my channel, you may want to check those out, as well as Sailrite's excellent UA-cam content. The machines aren't cheap, but they are pretty amazing!
Thanks for watching!
I really like the black handled snips that you have. Do you know what brand they are or where I could get a pair?
Hi!
Unfortunately, those came to me with a used sewing machine, and I have no idea where to buy them. These days I rarely use thread snips anymore, I have a pair of shears that I typically wear on my belt when sewing and just use them.
There are many thread snips on Amazon that look similar, and might be identical, but I can't say for sure.
Sorry I can't be more help, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thank you for taking the time to get back to me. Your content is great. Especially for me who is getting into sewing but not looking for the traditional clothing approach. Keep doing awesome stuff!
Interested to know what make and model of machine you are using there? it looks like it's got a walking foot!
Hi Steve,
In this video I'm using a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. It is, indeed, a portable walking-foot machine. I have a number of videos on Sailrite machines on my channel if you're interested to know more! Thanks for watching!
Good video! Thank you.
I use the sewing machine that Zi bought my wife that I have never, ever seen her use. The speed setting is adjustable in 0.1 increments of the speed of light.
Good job!
May want to check your machine for lubricant.... 😉
Hi Amy,
Thanks!
These machines sound that way, at the time of this video it was pretty brand new and lubed by Sailrite. And repeated oiling hasn't changed it. I have a 30-ish-year-old Thompson, this machine's predecessor, and it sounds the same way. But I appreciate the suggestion - I do have a bad habit of neglecting my machines :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
What thread are you using?
great video thanks
What sewing machine do you use? And what thread are you using? Do you think it would sew through webbing to make my own suspension trainer?
Hi Jed,
In this video, I am using a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 (also available as the LSZ-1, with zig-zag capabilities). VERY capable of sewing most webbing. I have a full review on my channel that you might want to check out. I also have some thoughts I share in my latest video, "Why Do I Have So Many Sewing Machines?" that you might find helpful.
The thread is V69 nylon, which is what I use for almost everything. This machine can handle up to V92.
I'm not sure what you mean by "suspension trainer," but if you are using webbing to suspend yourself or other people above the ground, MAKE SURE that you know what you are doing, or seek qualified assistance. It is very easy to make something that will work until it catastrophically fails. There are methods to ensure that failures happen in stages to help prevent injury that you might need to employ, depending upon what exactly you are doing.
That said, many inexpensive home sewing machines can sew webbing as long as it doesn't get too thick (at seams, for example).
I hope that helps, let me know if you have other questions, and thanks for watching!
Cool video, what kind of thread are you using?
Hi Jaime,
I almost exclusively use bonded nylon thread in size V69, which is what you see in use in this video. (there are several size systems for thread, you can find a chart on The Thread Exchange or Sailrite's websites, among others).
V69 is considered the thickest thread to be used in most domestic sewing machines (I've used it without issue in everything I have). I sometimes use V92 in my Sailrite and Thompson machines.
I hope that helps, thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
Please what type of brand Sowing machine is that? It seems very strong!
Hi,
It is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I have a full review on my channel if you would like to know more. I've had the machine for 4 years now and still love it.
Thanks for watching!
What kind of machine are you using? Great video, I subscribed!
Hi Scott,
Thanks! The machine I use in this video - and in a LOT of my projects - is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. It's a portable, walking-foot machine, and is extremely capable for thicker and hard-to-feed materials. I have a review and an unboxing on my channel you might want to check out if you'd like to know more. I've been using the machine for over 2 years and I love it!
Thanks for watching, commenting and subscribing!
What kind of machine would your recommend for 1000 cordura with 1/2 foam? Thanks!!
Hi Simon,
I have a video on my channel on choosing a sewing machine, you might want to check it out, it goes into more depth than I can here.
I definitely recommend a walking-foot machine for those materials (and nearly everything else I sew). I use a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1, a Thompson Mini Walker, a Consew 206RB-1 (my main machine these days) and a Consew 225. Any industrial walking-foot machine would be great if you have the space. If you need a portable and can't find something used, the Sailrite is expensive but worth it, in my opinion. The here are clones of the Sailrite for much lower prices, but I don't recommend them (see Sailrite's website for more information).
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades Thanks so much! Those are the machines I'm looking at. Consew, Juki, Sailrite.
If not for portability it sounds like your favorite is the Consew? I was looking at the Consew RB-5 which seems to be the popular model of theirs.
I want to buy a complete package with table, motor, etc.
The Consew RB-5 is about the same if not a touch cheaper then the Sailrite LSZ-1 complete package. If You had to choose between the 2 would You go Consew?
Simon
what size thread would you use for a backpack that carry's books and a laptop?
I almost exclusively use nylon thread in size 69 (aka v69 or t70). Pretty much every pack I've ever made has been made with it, no issues. I buy thread from The Thread Exchange, their website has a ton of great information.
If you haven't seen it, I have a 4-part tutorial on making a backpack on my channel (part four coming this week) you might want to check out if you're thinking of making a backpack and have questions or concerns about it.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Where do you get your fabric? I am looking for denier nylon that is duffel bag grade. I am looking for different colors. Where can I find this since googling does not give the results I need
I often purchase Cordura and similar fabrics from Rockywoods.com. No affiliation, I have bought from them several times and been happy. If you want fabric that is really tough and sturdy, you might look at 1680 denier ballistic nylon. The duffel bag in my duffel bag series of videos is made from that, as well as my brother's messenger bag I recently made (videos on my channel if you want to check them out). 1000 denier Cordura is also a good choice, and will be a little less stiff.
Thanks for watching!
cool👍
Thank you so much.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
How do we sew thick velcro (Duragrip) onto fabrics like cordura?
Hey there, sorry it took me so long to get back to you!
I haven't used Duragrip, so I can't speak to that. With "normal" velcro, I've just sewn it on as normal - although sometimes the tension gets a bit wonky, particularly on the "hook" side (the "harder" side of the velcro, if that makes sense).
Are you having any specific issues?
cool, what machine are you using?
Thanks! The machine is a Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1. I'm working on a full review, but in the meantime you can learn more about this machine by watching my unboxing video. It's a pretty great machine for the kind of projects I like to do!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Hmm, don't think we have those in Europe. If you would have any alternative in mind, please let me know! They sure do look great and you don't have to worry about the plastic breaking like in a lot of new "modern" machines :) Thanks for the vid's!
Sailrite sells a machine for the European market on their site. I understand some Euro countries have high import taxes that make importing one very pricey, I don't know if that might apply to you. You can check out their site for more info - www.sailrite.com. There are tons of knock-off machines that look like them, but I suspect the quality will be not as good.
Otherwise, I have always recommended used machines in the 1940s to 1960s/early 70s vintage. They're nearly indestructible, capable of sewing pretty heavy materials, and usually can be had pretty inexpensively. The walking foot system of the Sailrite (similar to walking foot industrial machines) makes it far superior for thicker material, especially over thick seams, but you can definitely make useful stuff with a vintage machine.
Thanks!
Michiel De Gelder I almost asked the same question glad I scrolled the comments glad you asked and glad to see the reply I just bought a singer heavy duty but I am liking this sew stuff and saved a few bucks I can see upgrading to this machine.
Haha, bought the same one (singer). have some idea's for upgrades though, you can pm me if you would like to discuss.
can i ask what spec thread you use and what size needle please
Hi,
I almost exclusively use size 69 bonded nylon thread. I tend to not pay strict attention to needle size, just as long as the the thread fits the needle (somewhere in the size 90-110 generally).
Thanks for your question, and thanks for watching!
What tension is the machine on??
Hi,
There isn't a direct answer to that question, since it will depend on your machine, the fabric(s) you are sewing, how many layers of material, what size thread and what size needle you are using. Many of my machines don't have numbers on the tension dial, which is my preference; with a numbered dial, there might be a tendency to select a number and expect a particular outcome, rather than observing the stitch to make sure you are achieving proper tension, regardless of what the dial says.
You might already know, but the goal of adjusting the tension is to balance the stitches on top and bottom, so that the "knot" where the upper and lower threads interlock is fully embedded in the fabric.
I hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Can you do this without the sewing machine?
Hi!
Absolutely, yes you can. Hand stitching is slow, but can be extremely effective. If you are hand stitching in thicker webbing/fabrics, a "sewing palm" might be helpful for pushing the needle through the fabric.
Another option would be to use an inexpensive "Speedy Stitcher" aka "Sewing Awl," which would allow you to make the same lockstitch as a machine forms. Various versions can be found (in various levels of price and quality) from Harbor Freight to Sailrite.
I hope that helps, thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
@@thejasonofalltrades thank you for the reply.
some reason on my machine , its not getting the box stich corners right, i sink the needle turn the webbing, and the corner looks like its missing the stich, looks like a 45 degree corner.
Have you tried changing your needle? Sometimes a dull, bent or otherwise damaged needle will cause skipped stitches, and it may be just bad enough that it only shows up making that turn. If that doesn't help, it could be timing.
Is your tension correct?
This machine price please
Sailrite.com
Unfortunately your music break - audio levels are very high compared to the content.
Hi,
Thank you for the feedback. This is an older video, and while my content is still far from perfect, I've made some improvements since this video was made.
No excuses, but I'm a one-man operation, and on a shoestring budget. While I try to make content that is as professional as my skills and equipment can achieve, I am far from a professional and using far from professional equipment. Hopefully the information and my charm can make it worth watching anyway :)
Thanks for watching, and I seriously appreciate the critique - I can't know what I need to try to improve if no one tells me!
Hi@@thejasonofalltradesIt not about your content - which is good, it is the audio level differences between your jingle and the actual content. At late hours that can be disturbing and startling to others who are at sleep.
Being a girl watching sewing for guys so I can make a tool roll for my wrenches: nice
LOL that's awesome!
I don't use the 'sewing for guys" thing these days, but back when I started this channel, there was very little sewing content oriented at heavy duty, utility-type sewing, and "sewing for guys" was the best shorthand term I could think of for it. As you demonstrate, it's not the best term to use.I still haven't found the right term, I'm all ears if you have any ideas!
I'm glad you got something out of the video. I need to make a tool roll myself!
BTW, I'm a welder, too :)
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have you considered calling this bro-ing?
What kind of thread did you use?
I neglect to say it often because I use the same thread for nearly everything, this is bonded nylon thread in size V69/Tex70.
Thanks for watching!