A 2" model 10 makes a for a good pocket revolver however the spur can cause hangups under stressfull conditions...I purchased a extra hammer just for this modification but kept the original hammer untouched thus I can put the gun back to it original factory condition if desired.
Its meant to prevetn spur from catchning on clothing during the draw. Its reasonable mod for concealed carry revolvers - less likely to screw up on draw and in fast self-defense shooting theres no time to cock the hammer anyway.
I've bobbed a few S&W's and never had a problem with light strikes. One of the biggest problems I've seen with light strikes on S&W's is someone loosening the strain screw as a means of lightening the trigger.
I've always wondered about light hits with a bobbed hammer. Maybe more of a theoretical concern than an actual one. Nicet to hear Larry use proper S&W nomenclature.
Actually, the loss of value is minimal, if any, since S&W hammers are readily available, and many of the guns, like he is holding, aren't collector items anyways.
Informative video. I just did this to a Ruger GP-100 with a 3 inch barrel. And just so you know, you may have to invest in a new holster or two if you use the ones with a snap closure...since the closure usually goes around the hammer spur. In my case, I intend to use it with an open top pancake holster.
None of my spurs are bobbed. Not that I do any single-action shooting with my Smiths, but I like to have that option and to have the weight of the spur for reliable ignition should I get into a batch of harder primers. If I did want a spurless Smith, I'd buy one that comes with a shroud, and if I ever DID dehorn one, I'd use a checkering or thread file to put serrations on the top of the hammer, just in case.
Larry: Thanks for what you do to demonstrate proper gunsmithing safety and techniques. A link to a source of the proper screwdriver bits for this type of work would be appreciated, as would links to a source of the proper replacement screws, for those of us who don’t quite get it right every time. A demonstration on the proper way of eliminating inadvertent cosmetic scratches would also be appreciated
Okay, thanks ;) With the strain screw you put pressure on the main spring, which forces the hammer forward, right? My only revolver is a S&W 360PD which has a spiral main spring, I think there's no screw to take it out but a pin. Damn, I should open that thing one time to see how it all works ;)
Yes the Js use a coil spring. There is a pin hole near the end of the strut so you can stick a pin in it to retain the spring compressed on the strut for removal.
More reliable than what, specifically? Modern semi-autos still follow the same basic principle from 100 years ago, yet the mechanics have advanced since then. Wouldn't the extra ammunition ease your mind a little more as well?
Revolvers are usually better in high power cartridges, in fact it's hard to even find semi's for some higher power rounds (in any event they cost three times as much)). And in a real self defence situation it's highly unlikely you will need to fire that many rounds as the morbid truth is either you're dead or they are. So better to have the best ammunition the better to make your first shots count.
What I'd like to know is, where do you get decent Dremmel bits? The Walmart ones are junk. If you tried to cut that spur off with the Wally version of that cut off well it would have shattered like glass, and the sanding drum would have fallen apart.
People argue over the dumbest stuff. This has been done to carry revolvers for decades. A carry gun isn't purchased for collector or resale value. Not everyone can afford to go dump $6-900 on another gun with a hammer shroud. This is a proven viable alternative.
Basically converting it to an double - action only. Slick. Still. I think getting another version of the same revolver that has an already made DOA would be better (to me as for my perspective). Or for those cases. Get an replacement for an bobbed hammer to be put in place.
I get that the purpose of this is the prevent it catching on clothing but what stops the hammer being knocked and setting of a cartridge that's chambered?
Watch Larry's 'Safety Features of the S&W Revolver' to see how the lumps on the hammer and rebound slide, and the redundant hammer block, accomplish this.
@@edbecka233 both S&W and Taurus use a similar system... the Taurus old 80/82's practically copied the rebound of S&W's K frame guns I wouldn't know about the newer 82 however
I am curious how far back is safe to remove the barrel, I mean, is it technically "safe" to have a barrel length of pretty much zero, or less than even 1 inch???
I mean shaving the barrel nearly all the way off, shaving the sights all the way and hammer off would leave no profile, and absolutely nothing to snag on a pocket.
Reason being a front jacket pocket "plug" gun. That could be shot through the jacket pocket several times at near point blank range at a person. Imagine a gun in your face, now imagine "give me your wallet" you place your firing hand in jacket pocket to reach for a "wallet" and in an instant your grabbing attackers gun or arm, to remove yourself from line of fire and squeezing 6 shots into center mass of some asshole. They wouldnt know what hit them. Plus most of these dip shit stick ups are dumb enough to place gun on or very close to your face or head.
@@edbecka233 But by removing mass and making it lighter the hammer spring is able to accelerate faster hence why doing this to your revolver has no effect on its ability to ignite the primer. The smith&wesson forum is full of conversations on this since many who have little experience with a proper S&W and its bobbed hammer immediately think oh light primer strikes. Mass x acceleration equals force, you reduce the mass of the hammer by bobbing it, *but by keeping the same strength hammer spring acceleration increases so the force is still relatively the same, in fact often times higher. Just like how baseball players cork their baseball bats /"hammers" to make it lighter, allowing them (hammer spring) to swing it faster and hit with more speed and ease, ultimately exerting more force on the baseball and sending it further.
I never understood why someone would do that to a revolver. If you want the thing to shoot double action, just pull the trigger and you know...shoot it double action.
Love your shop, Larry, but how can you sleep at night knowing what you did to that beautiful K-frame? For the love of God, demo this on a Ruger, Taurus, or Rossi. Or at the very least, on a gun that is still in production, like a 686.
This is pretty common practice with combat and competition revolvers. I would honestly have bought a second hammer to do it to though. One that was stainless steel like a Powers custom, using the cold blue is a bit of a lazy way to finish it. There are tricks to mimic color case hardened with oxphoblue.
...different story, being that she was out of ammo. Granted, it was a .38, though still a relatively powerful cartridge -- a bullet is a bullet. I believe caliber is a moot point, really, as shot placement is a more crucial factor. Also, people high on drugs like bath salts don't feel pain, so...
Started carrying a S&W model 15 when as an issue Gun when I joined the police department in 1974. Still love and own a dozen or so wheel guns. I only have one comment/concern after removing the hammer spur. Because you have removed some of the mass of the hammer, please test fire with your carry ammo to make sure you have no light hits. Thank you for this series of videos, they are wonderful and remind me of things I have forgotten.
Most people doing this kind of work or interested in doing this kind of work already have the necessary tools. This is more aimed at people interested in learning simple gunsmithing otherwise you are 100% correct, better to just buy and install a bobbed hammer.
Modifications like these are why some historical guns are next to impossible to find in original condition. I hate seeing a perfectly good gun chopped up like this. Even though the guy knows his stuff.
Since when do you need more than (usually 6-8) shots in a self defense situation? I would rather have 6 shots of 357 mag in a revolver than will not fail than 17 shots of 9mm in say a g17. It's all preference on what you want to carry. Even if you carry a titan .25 auto, it's better than nothing and will probably do the job.
@@TheDieselbutterfly True, but what about dead ammo? With a revolver you just click again and get new round while with a glock you gotta rack the slide once you notice no "bang". Revolvers are easy to maintain and cheaper than glocks too! Both are good options for self defense I believe.
I read that it doesn't cause misfires unless you tamper with the tension weight of the spring. But that's only what I've read on a gun forum, could be inaccurate.
we're not talking about a 22-ounce difference here it does sound ridiculous what if you look up videos on bobbing a hammer people will like their Hammer a tiny bit to create enough Force still strike the primer with a lighter trigger spring and hammer spring kind of like shooting your 22 ounce hammer out of a slingshot and I'm not going anywhere and then shooting a rock out of it and knocking you in the head
EXCELLENT WORK, LARRY BUT YOU FORGOT TO REMOVE THE S/A COCKING NOTCH FROM THE HAMMER. IF YOU WANT A SPURLESS HAMMER, LEAVING THE S/A COCKING NOTCH, IMHO, IS A DISASTER WAITING TO HAPPEN !!!
A lot of people do not like semi autos for carry. I would prefer a revolver just for the fact that it's more reliable, although you maybe pull a firearm once in your life if that.
Less chance it gets snagged on something . I have a double action only model 10 that has a hammer that's useless. Always thought about cutting it off. Not sure why they even made it with a hammer to begin with when you can't cock it.
Please don't do this unless your gun is MIM junk where they still make extra hammers by the truckload. Then it is fine and you aren't ruining something valuable, so go ahead, but please don't destroy the pre-1996 hammers with the firing pin in them. Those won't ever be made again.
I noticed you used a greenish blue grinding wheel on your dremel. You should use an orange one. Bluish green ones are for clay and terracotta and orange ones are for metals.
Well, you're assuming that each shot you fire will hit it's mark. There are numerous factors such as shaky grip from adrenaline flowing, multiple assailants, and more importantly, a moving target. You'll recall a recent incident involving a Georgia woman who fired all six rounds from her revolver, missing once and striking the intruder five times in his face, yet he still managed to retreat to his car and drive...to an extent. If he had a gun himself between that time, it could've been a...
No offense intended Larry but a bobbed hammer on a revolver with adjustable sights that will snag just as much as the hammer spur would seems pointless. I love bobbed hammers on concealed guns with fixed sights and they look way better. IMHO.
Looks kind of silly to me, personally, but to each their own I suppose. I'm not quite sure why one would prefer a revolver over a semi-auto for conceal carry though.
I Watched this video before I bobbed my first revolver, now I have done most of them. I prefer no hammer. If I'm firing in a defensive situation I'm not fooling with it. Looks better as well. My 44 magnum is the only one that I will not Bob for obvious reasons. I use electrical tape to put down on all the metal surrounding where I will be using a machine in case it slips, it will only bump a layer or two of electrical tape, it will save your ass.
It's not destroyed, the hammer was bobbed because in this case it's a conceal carry gun. And you don't want a hammer to get it caught on clothes or it jabbing you in the side. The hammer can always be welded back on later, and re-case hardened. It would look almost new....
I bet the old timers who did this didn't take the gun apart. I have never liked this mod. The ability to shoot single action is not something I want to throw away. I pocket carry sometimes and have practiced my draw. Snagging on the hammer just isn't a problem. I could maybe see smoothing the edges of the hammer some, round off the corners. I would never cut the whole hammer off. Oh well, it is your gun and you can do what you want. In the unlikely event you ever try to sell it to me I will haggle you down the price of a replacement hammer.
You can,or at least-used to be able to order bobbed hammers from Smith & Wesson....this was a common modification to J Frame Revolvers in the 1960's-1980's.
Why in the world would anyone except for stupid remove the best part of that gun?, that's how you fire off your quickest, most accurate and especially the most important first shot in self defense.
A 2" model 10 makes a for a good pocket revolver however the spur can cause hangups under stressfull conditions...I purchased a extra hammer just for this modification but kept the original hammer untouched thus I can put the gun back to it original factory condition if desired.
Larry makes it look easy doesnt he ? Larry and his wife has done a great deal for firearm sports.
I'm a Larry's fan since forever...
Its meant to prevetn spur from catchning on clothing during the draw. Its reasonable mod for concealed carry revolvers - less likely to screw up on draw and in fast self-defense shooting theres no time to cock the hammer anyway.
I've bobbed a few S&W's and never had a problem with light strikes. One of the biggest problems I've seen with light strikes on S&W's is someone loosening the strain screw as a means of lightening the trigger.
I've always wondered about light hits with a bobbed hammer. Maybe more of a theoretical concern than an actual one. Nicet to hear Larry use proper S&W nomenclature.
Great work, but that protruding rear sight still leaves something for the revolver to snag on.
A model 10 may have been more appropriate.
Was a popular modification decades ago. I never liked it myself but it does make a difference as a carry weapon
Actually, the loss of value is minimal, if any, since S&W hammers are readily available, and many of the guns, like he is holding, aren't collector items anyways.
Trollygag tis a relief
Informative video. I just did this to a Ruger GP-100 with a 3 inch barrel. And just so you know, you may have to invest in a new holster or two if you use the ones with a snap closure...since the closure usually goes around the hammer spur. In my case, I intend to use it with an open top pancake holster.
pagamenews I did the same thing to my 3” GP 100.I love it.
None of my spurs are bobbed. Not that I do any single-action shooting with my Smiths, but I like to have that option and to have the weight of the spur for reliable ignition should I get into a batch of harder primers. If I did want a spurless Smith, I'd buy one that comes with a shroud, and if I ever DID dehorn one, I'd use a checkering or thread file to put serrations on the top of the hammer, just in case.
Thank you, Mr. Potterfield. That shows me how ro remove just a bit of length from the hammerspur on a Browning Hi Power.
That is exactly how i did it on my J frame S&W 20 years ago. Made for a better pocket gun
If Larry Potterfield was a superhero his catch phrase would be "Splash on a little cold blue."
Andre Gross followed by : if you would
If?
IF?
I'll have you know Larry IS a superhero in my book!
I learn so much from these videos. Thanks!
Larry: Thanks for what you do to demonstrate proper gunsmithing safety and techniques. A link to a source of the proper screwdriver bits for this type of work would be appreciated, as would links to a source of the proper replacement screws, for those of us who don’t quite get it right every time. A demonstration on the proper way of eliminating inadvertent cosmetic scratches would also be appreciated
Midway has a "Gunsmithing Supplies" menu on the website, with a "Screwdrivers and bits" submenu.
Okay, thanks ;) With the strain screw you put pressure on the main spring, which forces the hammer forward, right? My only revolver is a S&W 360PD which has a spiral main spring, I think there's no screw to take it out but a pin. Damn, I should open that thing one time to see how it all works ;)
Yes the Js use a coil spring. There is a pin hole near the end of the strut so you can stick a pin in it to retain the spring compressed on the strut for removal.
More reliable than what, specifically? Modern semi-autos still follow the same basic principle from 100 years ago, yet the mechanics have advanced since then.
Wouldn't the extra ammunition ease your mind a little more as well?
Revolvers are usually better in high power cartridges, in fact it's hard to even find semi's for some higher power rounds (in any event they cost three times as much)). And in a real self defence situation it's highly unlikely you will need to fire that many rounds as the morbid truth is either you're dead or they are. So better to have the best ammunition the better to make your first shots count.
What I'd like to know is, where do you get decent Dremmel bits? The Walmart ones are junk. If you tried to cut that spur off with the Wally version of that cut off well it would have shattered like glass, and the sanding drum would have fallen apart.
Dremel brand
People argue over the dumbest stuff.
This has been done to carry revolvers for decades.
A carry gun isn't purchased for collector or resale value.
Not everyone can afford to go dump $6-900 on another gun with a hammer shroud.
This is a proven viable alternative.
Do you have to worry about the lost weight on the hammer (light primer strikes maybe?) or not?
The differance is negligable.
Basically converting it to an double - action only. Slick. Still. I think getting another version of the same revolver that has an already made DOA would be better (to me as for my perspective). Or for those cases. Get an replacement for an bobbed hammer to be put in place.
To be honest i liked it much better with the spur. This suits only to J-frames.
I just bought a Tarus 605 for my first carry peice but I really don't wanna Bob the hammer but I'm kinda thinking I really need to
buy a second hammer and bob that one...
I get that the purpose of this is the prevent it catching on clothing but what stops the hammer being knocked and setting of a cartridge that's chambered?
Watch Larry's 'Safety Features of the S&W Revolver' to see how the lumps on the hammer and rebound slide, and the redundant hammer block, accomplish this.
@@edbecka233 both S&W and Taurus use a similar system... the Taurus old 80/82's practically copied the rebound of S&W's K frame guns
I wouldn't know about the newer 82 however
It's called a Hamer Block,all S&W revolvers have this internal safety.
I am curious how far back is safe to remove the barrel, I mean, is it technically "safe" to have a barrel length of pretty much zero, or less than even 1 inch???
I mean shaving the barrel nearly all the way off, shaving the sights all the way and hammer off would leave no profile, and absolutely nothing to snag on a pocket.
Reason being a front jacket pocket "plug" gun. That could be shot through the jacket pocket several times at near point blank range at a person.
Imagine a gun in your face, now imagine "give me your wallet" you place your firing hand in jacket pocket to reach for a "wallet" and in an instant your grabbing attackers gun or arm, to remove yourself from line of fire and squeezing 6 shots into center mass of some asshole. They wouldnt know what hit them.
Plus most of these dip shit stick ups are dumb enough to place gun on or very close to your face or head.
jake juergens lmao 😂 I like this guy lolo and u are correct
Does the lighter hammer effect gun perfomance like timing?
No
There's no effect on timing but you ARE removing weight from the hammer which reduces its mass and therefore its momentum.
@@edbecka233 But by removing mass and making it lighter the hammer spring is able to accelerate faster hence why doing this to your revolver has no effect on its ability to ignite the primer. The smith&wesson forum is full of conversations on this since many who have little experience with a proper S&W and its bobbed hammer immediately think oh light primer strikes. Mass x acceleration equals force, you reduce the mass of the hammer by bobbing it, *but by keeping the same strength hammer spring acceleration increases so the force is still relatively the same, in fact often times higher. Just like how baseball players cork their baseball bats /"hammers" to make it lighter, allowing them (hammer spring) to swing it faster and hit with more speed and ease, ultimately exerting more force on the baseball and sending it further.
Not likely. The mass is reduced, but the force exerted on the hammer (and therefore the primer) remains roughly the same.
True, a .22LR is the assassins cal of choice because it can kill very effectively and without much sound or repour.
Me interesa la leva de giro de tambor, y la aguja de una sw .38 corto tipo eustako de 5 tiros me podras dar precio
Ouch! I'd never do that to any of my revolvers.
Greatly appreciated.
Next step is to remove the rear sight blade that can hook on clothes also.
.
Or does it effect primer strikes?
It shouldn't as the springs haven't been changed.
Nice Job.
I never understood why someone would do that to a revolver. If you want the thing to shoot double action, just pull the trigger and you know...shoot it double action.
Love your shop, Larry, but how can you sleep at night knowing what you did to that beautiful K-frame? For the love of God, demo this on a Ruger, Taurus, or Rossi. Or at the very least, on a gun that is still in production, like a 686.
Snowflake
This is pretty common practice with combat and competition revolvers. I would honestly have bought a second hammer to do it to though. One that was stainless steel like a Powers custom, using the cold blue is a bit of a lazy way to finish it. There are tricks to mimic color case hardened with oxphoblue.
@@countzero5150 You can do this with Van's also.
I do understand this on for example a mod 36, but on a mod 10? to big for my pocket.
...different story, being that she was out of ammo. Granted, it was a .38, though still a relatively powerful cartridge -- a bullet is a bullet. I believe caliber is a moot point, really, as shot placement is a more crucial factor. Also, people high on drugs like bath salts don't feel pain, so...
Why would someone do this? I'd get it if you want to make it easier to conceal, but you lose the ability to use it in single action, right?
but why on a k frame?
Doesn't it void the warranty?
It's a close combat weapon,used to kill! Who cares about a warranty. Your life is your warranty!
Why not just replace the hammer with a bobbed hammer?
Started carrying a S&W model 15 when as an issue Gun when I joined the police department in 1974. Still love and own a dozen or so wheel guns. I only have one comment/concern after removing the hammer spur. Because you have removed some of the mass of the hammer, please test fire with your carry ammo to make sure you have no light hits. Thank you for this series of videos, they are wonderful and remind me of things I have forgotten.
judging by the comments I must be the only guy that prefers it bobbed.
David Birtles no man Im with you bro
Lol
Man I have a 686 plus that id like to try this on but im scared ill butcher the job never having done it.
Nothing wrong with hiring a professional.
After money spent buying the tools needed plus your time and effort, it might be better to just buy a replacement hammer that comes bobbed
Most people doing this kind of work or interested in doing this kind of work already have the necessary tools. This is more aimed at people interested in learning simple gunsmithing otherwise you are 100% correct, better to just buy and install a bobbed hammer.
The fun thing about tools is you can use them more than once
Awesome!
this is cool as hell...been looking for a good vid before I did my snub nose model 19. its old and worn so no harm done
I agree, never would I do that
Sacrilegious
I prefer a semi bob on an sd revolver.
Modifications like these are why some historical guns are next to impossible to find in original condition. I hate seeing a perfectly good gun chopped up like this. Even though the guy knows his stuff.
Kevin P its a s&w that's got truckloads of parts so were good here
Since when do you need more than (usually 6-8) shots in a self defense situation? I would rather have 6 shots of 357 mag in a revolver than will not fail than 17 shots of 9mm in say a g17.
It's all preference on what you want to carry. Even if you carry a titan .25 auto, it's better than nothing and will probably do the job.
Andre Gross a glock IS as dependable as a revolver
@@TheDieselbutterfly True, but what about dead ammo? With a revolver you just click again and get new round while with a glock you gotta rack the slide once you notice no "bang". Revolvers are easy to maintain and cheaper than glocks too! Both are good options for self defense I believe.
@@Danny13243 no you are wrong.glock 21 in 45. Is superior, in fact the best
Guero saber se tem como um Rifre se me modifica para automático rajafa
too bad that model 10 lost its wide target spur :/
Muito bom guerreiro
👏 mas pra que serve isso?? 😒
É uma modificação para porte, quando for sacar o revolver o cão não enroscará na roupa.
Why remove that???
Oh no! Mutilation! ;(
Does taking away that much weight from the force of the firing pin risk misfires?
I read that it doesn't cause misfires unless you tamper with the tension weight of the spring. But that's only what I've read on a gun forum, could be inaccurate.
taking away material makes the hammer slightly lighter and will swing faster.
Ok. whatever you say...
we're not talking about a 22-ounce difference here it does sound ridiculous what if you look up videos on bobbing a hammer people will like their Hammer a tiny bit to create enough Force still strike the primer with a lighter trigger spring and hammer spring kind of like shooting your 22 ounce hammer out of a slingshot and I'm not going anywhere and then shooting a rock out of it and knocking you in the head
sorry for all the grammatical errors my phone sucks
no, its common mod.
I would be a very unhappy camper if someone did that to one of my revolvers!
Next he will show us how to weld the spur back on. :)
EXCELLENT WORK, LARRY BUT YOU FORGOT TO REMOVE THE S/A COCKING NOTCH FROM THE HAMMER. IF YOU WANT A SPURLESS HAMMER, LEAVING THE S/A COCKING NOTCH, IMHO, IS A DISASTER WAITING TO HAPPEN !!!
thanku
Why?
A lot of people do not like semi autos for carry. I would prefer a revolver just for the fact that it's more reliable, although you maybe pull a firearm once in your life if that.
What is the advantage of this?
Less chance it gets snagged on something . I have a double action only model 10 that has a hammer that's useless. Always thought about cutting it off. Not sure why they even made it with a hammer to begin with when you can't cock it.
never cared for a bobbed hammer
If they made the hammer with a curved portion on the backside, then it would not snag and you would still have the spur.
Please don't do this unless your gun is MIM junk where they still make extra hammers by the truckload. Then it is fine and you aren't ruining something valuable, so go ahead, but please don't destroy the pre-1996 hammers with the firing pin in them. Those won't ever be made again.
Agreed, but i think there are a few companies that can make them.
great work indeed, but the hammer without the spur looks ridiculous
a little like the head of a chicken lol
TheAngler2210 you could say it looks cocked and ready to rock
Ill see myself out
Larry God will punish you for what you did on the revolver
He doesn't care
One big pocket gun. Probably for Chuck Norris.
it looks less cool and no more single action😣
You can put some serrations on the top of the hammer with a checkering or threading file.
No No Don't do this Just buy a broken hammer from a dropped gun and save or sell the good one
I noticed you used a greenish blue grinding wheel on your dremel. You should use an orange one.
Bluish green ones are for clay and terracotta and orange ones are for metals.
Well, you're assuming that each shot you fire will hit it's mark. There are numerous factors such as shaky grip from adrenaline flowing, multiple assailants, and more importantly, a moving target.
You'll recall a recent incident involving a Georgia woman who fired all six rounds from her revolver, missing once and striking the intruder five times in his face, yet he still managed to retreat to his car and drive...to an extent. If he had a gun himself between that time, it could've been a...
No offense intended Larry but a bobbed hammer on a revolver with adjustable sights that will snag just as much as the hammer spur would seems pointless. I love bobbed hammers on concealed guns with fixed sights and they look way better. IMHO.
Sorry my ignorance, but why to remove the spur of a revolver? Is it just cosmetic?
OR just buy a bobbed hammer and keep the original.
Looks kind of silly to me, personally, but to each their own I suppose. I'm not quite sure why one would prefer a revolver over a semi-auto for conceal carry though.
I Watched this video before I bobbed my first revolver, now I have done most of them. I prefer no hammer. If I'm firing in a defensive situation I'm not fooling with it. Looks better as well. My 44 magnum is the only one that I will not Bob for obvious reasons. I use electrical tape to put down on all the metal surrounding where I will be using a machine in case it slips, it will only bump a layer or two of electrical tape, it will save your ass.
It's not destroyed, the hammer was bobbed because in this case it's a conceal carry gun. And you don't want a hammer to get it caught on clothes or it jabbing you in the side. The hammer can always be welded back on later, and re-case hardened. It would look almost new....
is this your clone of brownells instructor?
what a waste, such a classic revolver and bobbing the hammer? just get a cheap new smith with an internal hammer
T Y for the smith & wesson "hack" job
Butchering a piece of artwork is common practice !...and that's the way it is !
Лично мне больно смотреть как портят прекрасное оружие. То мушку пилят, то курок, ужас.
I bet the old timers who did this didn't take the gun apart.
I have never liked this mod.
The ability to shoot single action is not something I want to throw away.
I pocket carry sometimes and have practiced my draw.
Snagging on the hammer just isn't a problem.
I could maybe see smoothing the edges of the hammer some, round off the corners.
I would never cut the whole hammer off.
Oh well, it is your gun and you can do what you want.
In the unlikely event you ever try to sell it to me I will haggle you down the price of a replacement hammer.
You must have been stoned to do this to a fine gun.
You can,or at least-used to be able to order bobbed hammers from Smith & Wesson....this was a common modification to J Frame Revolvers in the 1960's-1980's.
you just ruined that gun
I don’t like the look of it but it’s your gun
After you cut the hummer looks agly
Why in the world would anyone except for stupid remove the best part of that gun?, that's how you fire off your quickest, most accurate and especially the most important first shot in self defense.
Not to a beautiful 4in model 15....
Estragou o revólver.
That's disgusting
how to destroy a revolver.....
How... Yeah you don't. Get a different gun
Looks awful