Watch This Before You Buy a Bored Throttle Body For Your Jeep 4.0
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2022
- Just relaying what my experience has been (and many other people) when using a 62mm bored throttle body on Jeep 4.0 - I wanted it to work out but its never that easy
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Due to factors beyond the control of Flawed Offroad, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Flawed Offroad assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Flawed Offroad recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Flawed Offroad, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Flawed Offroad.
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If you're looking for a little bit more power you need to cut the catalytic converter off to decrease some of the back pressure it won't be a huge difference but it'll be a little other than that moving the intake air temperature sensor to the actual breather box seems to keep the engine running better longer once the intake gets hot from the exhaust underneath it the temp on the IAT starts to read higher than the are actually coming in also another thing that helps a little bit is moving your map sensor off of the throttle body and replacing it on the frame somewhere where it's not shaking from the engine you're not going to see any huge gains but it does make it drive a little bit better and you do pick up a small amount of power
Honestly I’m not looking for anything, like I mentioned my buddy used to take these throttle bodies out of junkyard jeeps and get them machined out then sell them on eBay and he gave me one so I put it on. I was never really after anything.
Bro you have the old plenum. Ten bucks says with the rams head plenum from the WJs or 99+ XJs it would stop. The 62mm and rams plenum are 2/3 of the upgrades. The third is porting the head to match the rams head plenum opening. Also adding the WJ expansion chamber above the T.B helps flow along with its flattish hose. I am 3D printing factory XJ airbox lids that fit to the WJ oval tube. Coming soon!
Still not going to get no power though the restrictions going to be the valve you need a bigger intake valve to allow more air in so either going to need head work done or a new cam that raises the lift and duration of the intake valve opening to allow more are other than that the only way to get more air into that engine is by forced air induction or colder air because cold air is more oxygen dense once you get more errands and you're going to need more displacement though you can only cram so much air in a given space so then you're going to be looking at either boring it out or stroking it. Then you're going to need more fuel so that you can mix with more are so that means bigger injectors then you'll get more power
Killer video! Got yourself a new subscriber. I especially liked the part where you shook the last of the power out of the ground cable. Anything more and your just playing with it 😂
I dont even remember doing that lol, this video was made awhile ago
Thanks for this. I was going to just clean out my throttle body and funny enough this popped up.
I have a 4cyl. YJ and hot a 62mm throttle body from EBay. Touching the disconnected battery cables together to clear the computer works. You have to make sure to use the 4cylinder tps sensor and iac valve. Luckily they transfer perfectly. You have to remember to plug them back in! My original throttle body was filthy. The new one is obviously clean. The good thing is that it runs great. I highly recommend buying a new 62mm throttle body for the 4cylinder engines out there. I actually got better mileage and it runs much better.
I have heard it helps the 2.5 more than the 4.0
No it doesn't you're not getting more power by doing that to the 2.5 the throttle body intake runners and the exhaust are over engineer to allow more are in than the engine needs the restriction is going to be the intake valve without bigger intake valves or a cam to increase lifter duration you're not going to get more air into the engine unless you're Force air induction or cold air because cold air is more oxygen than then you need more displacement to hold more of the air in the fuel which means you're going to have to get bored out block with bigger Pistons or stroke it then you're going to need bigger fuel injectors because once you get more are you need more fuel then you will get power
Lol I like to pretend the whistling is turbo sounds.
OBD-1 has long term fuel trims, but not short term. it can vary by 25%+/-
Do you think the whistle might be coming from the really short air intake tube and cone filter. I know you can get a whistle when you change to those filters. Live watching the videos! The timing was funning with Muddy Beard also doing a throttle body video this week.
no it was like that when I had the stock airbox. The only reason I’m running this crappy tube is the stock airbox no longer fits with my upgraded brake booster/master
Yeah I got a laugh out of that too. I was trying to make a different video but I couldn’t finish it in time so it should be next week.
That intake isn’t exactly free-flowing.Getting the newer style intake would help some.
The whistle is from the idle control port. Moto trend says to make a couple vertical notches at the top of the port. I guess that mixes the air around enough by the port to not create a whistle. I'm thinking about doing this to mine soon.
Ive had several comments about this, One of these times i will look into it
Im making a follow up to this, I tried rounding all the sharp edges on the ports and made a few notches but it didnt help. I cant find a picture online of how deep people are saying to make them, do you have a source?
Air intake tube and cone filter for the whistle...put back to standard and see
I’m sure it adds to it but the whistle was there with the stock airbox and that tb. However I can no longer run a stock air box because my upgraded brake booster/master sticks out too far, had to remove the airbox
Your 4.0 sounds nice and quiet at idle!
It’s not too bad of a motor but she has some blowby. I may get buck nasty and build a stroker one of these days
Hey could you help me and tell me how and where to get the mini oil intake. I really need your help 😢 mind is a 4.0 1995 Cherokee xj
Mine whines under load after switching to a BBK and spacer.. I thought it was my pulleys or PS or ALT but no it was the throttle body’s causing a Whine threw the stock air box
The injectors for Ford are the 49# cobra mustang injectors you're talking about. I've built these engines to do 500hp.
Hol up, hol up, hol up. You’ve built 500 hp into the 4.0?
All you need to do is port match some of the TB just above the IAC port. About 100° in the center of the IAC port. Do not cut into the TB where the butterfly seats. I did this and worked very well versus it being matched 360°.
This is the second comment similar to this I definitely need to look into it
A better explanation ua-cam.com/video/FgFyF8Isk7g/v-deo.html
What do you mean?
@@blurglide
Rather than bore the entire circumference, only remove material in the portion around 90° from the throttle shaft.
Try using a little die grinder bit and make a few small vertical notches on the top of the idle air control port opening to prevent whistling on the 62 mm throttle bodies.
Ill have to look into that to see exactly what you mean. are you talking about the tapered seat that the iac sits down in
Im making a follow up to this, I tried rounding all the sharp edges on the ports and made a few notches but it didnt help. I cant find a picture online of how deep people are saying to make them, do you have a source?
@@FlawedOffroad if you smoothed it out, I would think it would make it worse. To get rid of the whistle, you'd want to interrupt the laminar flow I would think.
My 4.0 is NOT a turd. I have a 0 to 60 video posted.
The mods you have done I would not do. Your cold air intake is actually a very HOT air intake. The engine is drawing in hot air from the rear of the engine! Stock, it draws cold air behind the left headlight.
Your PCV is inop.
And that's just the first 15 seconds I looked at your engine.
If you live near me, I'm willing to help you get the most from your 4.0.
The throttle body won't help (probably loses a few HP)
There are gains to be had on the exhaust side.
I had to remove the stock airbox due to the aftermarket brake booster/master is too long. That crappy intake was the fastest way to get running. I don’t plumb the ccv to the fresh air intake because it pukes oil anyway. It has suction at idle but on the freeway the metered hole at the rear can’t keep up with the blowby and it pukes. Thus the little mini filter still lets air in when at lower rpm’s and catches oil drips when it starts puking.
I could spend 20 minutes explaining it all and ppl would just fast forward anyway and ask the same questions haha
@@FlawedOffroad Haha!
I have done a few different 4.0 "builds"
Some things work ok, some lose power and most do nothing at all.
I did find some mild gains by custom building my own exhaust. There are a few HP to be had there.
I didn't know about your master, YJ brakes were weak when they were new.
I got great results from using drilled, slotted rotors and a performance pair of pads.
@@TheBandit7613 going back through the comments on here cause Im going to test something out and I see I missed this one. I have full width axles the stock brakes werent cutting it so I have an aftermarket booster/master thats sized for my brakes and it works so much better. but its long and forced me to gut the airbox. Im still using the cheap intake tube where its at, at least its not on the exhaust side. Thought about porting it into the cowl but havent yet. Im going to attempt to grind a little off the IAC port, I must have 10 comments on here from people saying that is what whistles. So its likely new video is incoming
@@FlawedOffroad Jeep used a weak booster, for sure. I have had to two leg stop a couple times. Originally, the YJ came with brakes that are hardly adequate for 27" tires.
There's a Jeep site I'm going to try to find again for you. They make 10 or 15 changes to their YJ and dyno it after each change they make. Some bolt on performance parts would LOSE several horsepower.
The mod that made the biggest difference for me was a custom built exhaust. The YJ came with a restrictive exhaust, the TJ is even worse.
I'll watch for your new video and I'll try to find that Jeep website for you.
@@TheBandit7613 I have one of the headers with the baffles and then I use the TJ downpipe which uses a larger diameter exhaust than what the yj one was. I have a high flow cat but then I think it’s mostly factory behind that so it probably necks back down to whatever size the YJ came with. I am running a thrush turbo welded muffler which sounds pretty good but it’s a factory tailpipe. At one point I was running the four hole injectors which I thought gave me better throttle response but I put the factory ones back in for some reason trying to diagnose something a long time ago. That wasn’t it and I’ve been meaning to switch back to them because I felt they made a difference
I have run multiple 62mm TB and never had a whistle. However I on the 98- intake manifold I combined with a air raid tb spacer. and with the 99+ style intake I ran direct on the intake manifold. I did at one point swap a 96 motor out to have the 99 intake and the bored throttle body. and it may have just been the placebo effect, but that with a 2.75" full length exhaust really seemed to make that engine come alive. Sucks that you've had those issues with it... if you're up for one more go at it try putting a TB spacer in it like an air raid or something... might just be snake oil, but it also might solve the whistle for you.
I’ve always thought spacers on Jeep to be snake oil, it was different back in the day with carburetors where it was giving the fuel more time to atomize. I didn’t think about it as potentially correcting the whistle though
Throttle spacers actually increase plenum volume which in turn provides more low end torque. It's common to swap intakes to get more volume. TB spacers aren't much, but DO help with that.
Getting the horse shaped intake,would make a difference
Ive had a few comments like that, I'd love to see some numbers on it so I might go on a little google dive haha.
After you changed back to the stock throttle body and then it shows you start the engine up. It whistled in a sound. I've never heard an engine whistle like that before in a Jeep. Take that air intake off and drive it without it. See if it still whistles
It does, the shaft seals in the TB leak on both of them
The BBK throttle body is the way to go excellent quality and performance really woke up my Comanche with the four hole injectors in the new coil and wires
What brand coil did you use? Mu 1993 has the stock coil.
You're not getting more power doing that you have to have bigger intakes valves more lift and duration and displacement to get more power out of those engines
@@thehatefull1761 I get that you probably believe that. Have you ever driven a vehicle with sport mode that is high-performance? Put it in sport mode and it does not put new intake valves and change the displacement. Yeah it is a completely different vehicle. Thanks for your wisdom.
@@boldgold3885 I can explain it to you although I doubt you'll understand but vehicles that have sport mode is nothing but a tune. Vehicles that have sport mode are usually running on economy mode to save fuel in sport mode is the un economy mode sorry to burst your bubble but at least now you know the facts are you smart enough to accept them though
@@boldgold3885 a lot of high performance vehicles that you're talking about have cam phasers are able to have variable valve timing but we're talking about our vehicles that are not even OBD2 I don't think you understand a lot about vehicles and are ignorant about what you speak I've been a mechanic for 20 years and have built a thousand horsepower vehicles before my garage I'm currently building a rock crawler that has a 5.3 with a 2.5 liter supercharger on it I know what I'm talking about little buddy
A magazine review of the 6cyl jeeps in the 90s said it was overpowered lol
lol
Is that a YJ Jack or something different? It doesn't look like the one mine came with.
Yeah it’s what came with mine, scissor jack
that is sort of a common thing with all large bore TB's. has to do with the velocity not being as high with the higher flow rate. I think the 'Horse shoe' intake manifold is a much better upgrade than the TB. so we can math this out. a 4liter (244 CID) at 6000 rpm, will pass about 425 CFM... 244x6000/3456=425. A 60mm TB will flow in the 600 CFM range. so thats an extra 175 ish cfm.. that drops the intake air velocity which causes the 'whistle'... I'd rather have a stock TB with a horse shoe manifold.
Is that the 2001+ xj/tj one?
@@FlawedOffroad I think it was 99 through 06 for pretty much any 4 l. I think It increases flow by like 3% or something but the different shaped runners are more efficient and it also helps dissipate the exhaust manifold heat a little bit better than the straight runner log style intake. I think ideally finding a 4 l HO head with the horseshoe intake would be the ideal setup.
I upgraded to bored 62mm on my 96 4.0 and ran it for years. Then, I reinstalled the stock tb which narrows down to 56mm based on what I've read on the internet, and I actually gained power. Not as touchy response wise, but the torque is much better and doesn't fall on it's face when you give it sudden wide open throttle from slow speeds. I think that neck down below the throttle flap helps to speed up the air and guide the air more smoothly into the runners instead of the air just slamming down into the manifold and creating turbulence. My jeep has a gibson header, high flow cat and catback, horseshoe intake, and bosch 4 hole injectors. Also noticed that my voltage is a bit higher too since the air is moving by the MAP sensor hole more quickly now (gives it a better "engine load" reading).
@@alexirodriguez9121 yep you hit the nail right on the head. If you're building full-blown race car then obviously the bigger the hole the better. But when it comes to efficiency and low end power you want that high velocity airflow. Same principle applies to putting a thousand CFM carburetor on a 5 L engine It just drowns it out. And unless it's spinning 8,000 RPMs it really won't make a bit of difference at all.
Any one small mod alone is not going to make a big difference on it own. Now if you do a real cold air, a bigger throttle body, cam , port head , injectors, headers and exhaust, maybe some ignition and fuel tuning. All the sudden the sum of mods has made a big deference.
I agree. that was never the intent of why I installed the thing though. Honestly back then my friend used to pull them from junkyards, bore,blast,paint,sell them and I gave him a core and he gave me a completed one. So I used it
This is correct you're never going to get much power out of these until you can force more are and more fuel into the engine and you have to have the valves to do it the cam to give you the lift and duration and a displacement to hold it all not to mention the fuel to add to the air
The 4.0 and 2.5 throttle body and intake and exhaust are over engineered there is no air restriction you are never going to see any performance gains by boring these out any bigger you have to get bigger valves in the head to allow more air in the engine because that's where your restriction is going to be the size of the valve how long it opens and how far it opens the only way to get past this is either with a new cam or bigger valves or forced air induction
Bet it’s that idle air control valve your not supposed to clean them. They are very touchy and pressing on the plunger can damage the motor. Pretty sure when you buy them they have a piece of paper with them warning not to attempt to clean them.
All I did was spray the tip of it with carb cleaner to get the crud off of it but I do have a spare one laying around I could try to swap in. In my experience when the IAC is bad the vehicle will not idle for s*** and mine idles just fine
Sorry I don't know English, but is this 62mm piece from another vehicle or not?
It’s from the same jeep, people get them machined/opened to 62mm
Mine whistles stock throttle body but 1inch power aid spacer,cold air passenger side
I'm sharing here.
Most things don't make much difference. Some help a little and a couple help a bit more.
Spark Plugs: YJ's are picky about plugs. Avoid gimmick plugs. Use plain old Champion Copper Plugs every 30K. No Iridium, no platinum.
YJ's have a restrictive exhaust and can benefit from exhaust work.
Don't bother with bigger throttle bodies. Nothing there. Performance intakes: Nothing there. The stock intake provides all the air a stock 4.0 can use.
Stroker kit. Lot's to be had there.
Under hood supercharger kit. Yes, there are moderate to big gains. (It's the Pontiac Supercharger)
Here is my Jeep 0 to 75
ua-cam.com/video/Xne13WWGeLo/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ChrisNVegas
I have a few parts stashed aside for a possible future stroker build but Shhhh
The IAC port needs rounded, that's where the whistle comes from.
Im making a follow up to this, I tried rounding all the sharp edges on the ports and made a few notches but it didnt help. I cant find a picture online of how deep people are saying to make them, do you have a source?
@FlawedOffroad Hesco use to have a diagram on how far and the tolerances you could go. I don't have it off hand, it might still be floating around the internet!
@@miked90123 Ive tried twice now making them bigger the second time and there is no change
Larger throttle body needed for a stroker
Correct you're not going to see any power from a larger throttle body unless you have the displacement and the bigger vavels to let it in the engine
The whistle is probably your check valve
the little vacuum check valve?
Yeah on the driver's side. That's what it was on my jeep anyway. It was super loud too. I couldn't stand it.
I'll take that throttle body if you are really gonna trash it. Lmk
@@longhammerclamslammer7821 I never did throw it out its still laying around
Hey flawed off-road, can I borrow a vehicle to park in front of my neighbors house? Your worst looking registered vehicle please. There’s always room in front of their house yet they park in front of my house. Cya at work
lol
Nice HOT air intake sitting right over the motor, that's just fucking stupid
I had to remove the stock airbox because my aftermarket brake booster interfered with it. This is what I could make work in a quick/cheap manner. at least I put it on the colder side of the engine and not right above the exhaust. Plenty of people run it this way with no issues, especially since I have a ton of hood vents. But thanks for your asshole opinion👍
Don’t throw it away I’ll take it off your hands
I’m actually going to try clearancing the area by the idle air control valve since I’ve had several comments suggesting that fixes the whistle
a gasket on TOP of another gasket????...you gotta be kidding me right
You're the only one talking about 2 gaskets lol. I didnt use 2 nor would I ever.
Most websites say it goes up to a 2003 I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee :/ do they have one for my Jeep
Im not as familiar with the 2000's 4.0 stuff, there must have been some sort of change. is it drive by wire or something? Id try to google it. Otherwise you can pull your tb and take to a machine shop, that may not cost any more than buying one online
Nice hot air intake
Ive explained why its like that 1000 times, stock airbox had to go to fit big brake booster/master. it really doesnt make a negative difference. It used to be on the driver side which is the real hot side lol. It's fine I promise