After seeing tons of other people's projects on UA-cam come out _so perfectly,_ seeing a project like this be so scuffed is oddly like an aggravating breath of fresh air. Like seeing someone play your favorite video game poorly, this makes me want to do this project myself, lol! Great vid honestly, keep at it.
Yes. Seeing others do things perfectly makes me feel like there is an incredibly high standard that most people are capable of achieving when they do these projects. But to see a big name guy such as Mr. Hurd fail and have various bloopers during the production of this project was just refreshing. Goes to show that mistakes are more common than what is perceived online!
That's the premis of UA-cam, it was supposed to be a platform full of screw-ups but ended up with full of professional builds as well as screw-ups. Basically Everything & nothing is perfect & that's what makes UA-cam a decent platform.
That's a resonance port but with a diaphragm in it to prevent dust ingress. It allows the speaker cone to move freely in the chassis regardless of changes in pressure internally. someone else might know more than me
Only thing I can add is everything he said significantly extends the low frequency response of the driver. Why it had a solid, quality sound to it vs hollow plastic sounding. Nice touch on their part.
Looks more like a passive radiator (sometimes called "drone cone"). It's like a speaker that isn't powered, it only uses the pressure inside of the speaker enclosure that the main driver (speaker) is creating, to extend the low end of the unit. It's pretty common in 2- and 3-way nearfield studio monitors nowadays since they usually are using small woofers that can't recreate low frequencies (usually 5" and below). Using a passive radiator, instead of having bass ports, lets you place the monitors closer to walls without loosing low end information. Portable bluetooth speakers also use passive radiators instead of bass ports because you probably don't want large holes in your bluetooth speaker where dirt and moisture can enter. _"In the same way as a ported loudspeaker, a passive radiator system uses the sound pressure otherwise trapped in the enclosure to excite a resonance that makes it easier for the speaker system to create the deepest pitches"_ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)
Also the passive radiator adds cubic space so the box that the speaker is in acts bigger than it is and still gives tight bass like a sealed box does vs a ported box in which the bass is looser. But louder. Best of both worlds... Louder and tighter.
Cool build! Some (hopefully_ useful tips for the future: 1. Typically you want a desoldering gun, a soldering iron, and fresh solder, to remove a large pin header like that. You want to tin one of the pins on the embedded header with fresh solder, then use the desoldering gun to remove all the solder from that pin. Repeat for all 40 pins and then it will come cleanly out. (alternatively you can buy a Raspberry Pi without the pin headers and just solder the one you want on). 2. Highly suggest getting a Dremel for next time, as they offer you a lot more control over the removal and shaping of material on a piece. Overall, it's a neat little project!
yeah! i cringed at the glass breaking, and with the very bad soldering job. the PC is still very cute but could've also used a custom UI to fit with the retro look more xD
The white piece going to the port on the back is a bass diffuser. It's basically a speaker cone without a magnet or coil, and it's used to make the cabinet produce bass like a ported cabinet, but keeping it airtight like a sealed cabinet, giving a decent balance between both types. Good deep bass response, but also a decent punchy response for the mids.
That port with the white part is called a passive radiator and yes it makes the bass feel more seperate from the main speakers but it doesn't have a voice coil
I've been wanting to make something like this as a bit of an art piece to display in my home studio. Essentially I just want to be able to run milkytracker or fasttracker on it in a constant loop and when people ask, "what is this?" I'd just have them hit a mute button on the keyboard that would let them hear the music. Milkytracker runs on raspberry pi's so your kinda already there with it.
Oh man, removing pin headers is a PAIN. I was doing the same today and I have some tips for you. Yes, it's easier if you remove the plastic spacers, I sometimes cut through them by melting them with the soldering iron - it's not pretty, but it puts less strain on the traces than just pulling at them. Make your soldering iron hotter than you normally would just for soldering, like 350/400 degrees. Once you have the pins out and you want to clean up the holes, try using solder wick and flux instead of the sucker: Get your solder wick and drag it through flux so it's saturated, then press it to the pin holes with your iron and it will wick up the solder cleanly. If it's not wicking, try more flux. I think you can get pre-fluxed solder wick, so maybe try that. Wick with no flux is really difficult to get to work. Also have heard good things about hollow desoldering needles but haven't tried them yet.
oh also it sounds wierd but sometimes I find it helps to ADD solder to the headers at the start because fresh quality solder is often easier to remove than whatever they used on the board at the manufacturer.
@@isaacgraphics1416 fyi its likely because soldering wire is low temperature alloy, while industrial flow solder station use cheaper alloys. Tin+lead is lower temp but because of regulations they prefer to just use tin at higher temps. Lead-free soldering wire alloy uses silver or bismuth i believe and is more expensive
if you hold the raspberry pi securely upside down, you can heat up the pins individually and using a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pins out through the plastic, when the pins get hot they will slide through the plastic with ease so they do not need to be removed
I believe the rubber membrane is supposed to be a "bass reflex speaker" which effectively makes the internal size of the enclosure appear acoustically larger to the driver. It effectively acts like a spring.
Total respect for your skills and determination to see this through. Like other comments I found your raw honesty and "warts and all" delivery really refreshing - thank you. Of course I checked out the link to buy the cute little speaker and saw that they have some other cool designs that I will be checking out too. In this case I think I got to the part where you're snipping off the corners of the LCD screen and I said to myself - it would have been so much easier to design the entire case to size in Tinkercad 🤣. But that would have been a totally different type of challenge. Once again, well done sir!
It makes me so mad that your channel is as popular as it is and you still make videos where you’re using one hand to hold your phone, clumsily doing everything else with the other. Number one content media pet peeve
For the desoldering of the header on something delicate like the raspeberry Pi, I would first add flux and leaded solder onto the existing pin header (to induce some lead into the lead-less solder that these ROHS boards use- it has a higher melting temp and is less ductile- a bit harder to work with), then remove as much of the existing solder as I could using solder wick/braid (or a solder sucker/desoldering gun), and then use some chip quick (indium low-melt solder) to flow into the bit of solder that you can't remove. Then a small amount of heat will melt the indium and you can remove the header (a heat gun works best, but a soldering iron or even a hair dryer will melt indium solder). Remove the rest of the indium solder with solder wick, flux and add a bit of a solder base to the pads, then add your new header. It's a bit of work, but I was having board layers separate and pads lift on certain delicate boards when trying to use just desolder. Even if you don't use the indium chip quick solder, definately replacing the lead-less solder that comes on the board with leaded solder will help get the pins off and not use as much heat. Also- get a heat gun- they are invaluable, especially when doing SMD or large headers. And get a temp controlled soldering iron- I had that same iron you're using an upgraded to a cheap Weller variable temp unit- it's analog without a temp gauge, but it has a dial for more/less power. It works really well- allows you to lower the heat for leaded solder and up it for lead-less solder. Ok! Good hunting!
The thing in the back is called a passive radiator. It actually emits sound, in this case, bass. It's weighted down to get the frequency response wanted. This kind of small speaker wouldn't be able to play this full of a sound without DSP (Digital Signal processor) that does some funky math and filtering to the sound before it's sent to the actual speaker. The science behind this is called "Psychoacoustics"
So for the pins flip it over heat the solder point with the iron till liquid then use the solder sucker to remove most then heat up each pin with solder wic and it should then just fall out
This was the second video of yours I've seen and I'm soo glad I found your channel. This kind of stuff is what I want to learn how to do. But with zero experience I'm trying to figure out where to start. Good shit man
I use flat tip solder iron and make contact on the pins and try pushing them. I don't have fancy equipment but it always works for me, just need to be patient, and then take a desoldering braid and remove the excess solder left on the board!
I always use a heat gun for removing headers and through hole IC's. Works a charm as long as its level so you don't flow and shift something you don't mean to.
Nice build! Thanks for sharing :) The bit under the speaker is a ported passive radiator that increases the output at low frequency, it's a pretty good way of producing bass frequencies in a tiny enclosure.
That is a passive radiator to increase the volume of the low frequencies compared to the high frequencies. It's like a bass port, but with less sloppy low end.
Love this. Id totally buy one of these! also, if you are looking for an add on idea for this, it definitely needs an rfid reader so you could make it more useful for daily operation like for spotify playlists or audiobooks
I'm in love with this. Totally something I'd do and I'm glad you did it for me. Eben though I would've had fun making it and oogled over how cute it was for a few days, I also have no use for it either. Side note, at 4:16, you can barely see the thing as the UA-cam recommendation gets in the way. Something to remember to watch for on and take into account for in future videos. Anyways, glad I saw this in my recommendations and am looking forward to seeing what more you come up with in the future. Until then, I've got some work to do binging your previous videos.
Thanks. And good to hear my channel is actually getting recommended to non-subscribers by the Algo, I still have no idea why/how certain videos get promoted
@@CarterHurd Im not really sure about that, I like to see more video about fully functional portable cyber deck like this , maybe I should considering subscribe
OK for the screen edges use some griding tool , and for the keyboard too.for desolder 40 pin , the simplest way mask the hole rasberri with capton tape and aluminium foil , and then use heatgun , but prehet the panel with hair dryer.
Dude, such a good project. i really like that u did that because you can do it. That is the point You said you don't know what to do with it you don't need to do anything you just saw that you can
How you get a 40 pin Dupont connector off? You buy a ZD915 and a bit of flux and go over each pin with around 400 degrees C after you let it work for half a second you trigger the pump. This will likely work, but if it does not, take goot wick (brand) or some other nicer wick and go over them again with fresh leaded solder or even better low melt bismuth solder with copious amounts of flux. Do this outside since it stinks or suck the air off.
it's out of stock. that's fine, I don't have my mounting mechanism set up yet. fr though, this is a fucking lifesaver, even at 30 bucks. I can finally convert my smartphone into slide phone.
It is perfectly possible to remove an IDC header like this without special tools. Make sure that you add fresh leaded solder to lower the melting point, heat up the joint until molten and grab the pin from the opposite side of the PCB and pull straight up. The hot pin will pull out, straight trough the plastic part and come out without any mess.
Wick it with braided copper. It'll melt the solder and release the plastic. The wicking on the other side of the board will basically hold on to the pins, and you should just be able to pull them off with little resistance.
@@juansolo1617 That's how i used to do it, but the wicking action takes longer, so much more chance of damaging the PCB and especially the trough-hole-plating.
What I do to remove the headers is just go pin by pin. If you just put your souldering iron on 1 pin at a timd, wait for the solded to melt completely and gently push on the pin, yout can get most of the way through, from there I grab it with a small pair of pliers ant lift it out of the board completely.
You’d be surprised how many brands want to send free stuff with no strings attached. I normally turn it all down. When a UA-camr does a “what’s in my bag” video, you can bet that like 1/2 of it was all free. This is why I don’t do reviews, and only trust UA-cam reviews by large million+ sub channels that aren’t going to be swayed by little giveaways.
i find that if you heat header pins individually high enough you can pull them out with small pliers at the same time, even if they are soldered on to a board. this still takes a lot of effort but it is doable. that might work with the pi as well.
to remove header pin you need a good solder wick gootwick is good and you need some good flux. also a nice and hot iron is good like a hacko. you wick up all the solder and then i like to run the iron uo and down the piins slowly and use a small screwdriver pry it up off the board.
Nice job but... 1 doubts and a suggestion: - Why dont you solder the wires in to the raspberry board?? - The next time use a dremmel for cut the screen :) Anyway, thanks for your video!
You can actually remove the headers fairly easily with the tools you have plus a heat gun. You don't want to bend the pins to remove the plastic. If you have to, use some sharp lead cutters to cut everything into individual squares. Then you can go one by one like you did which would probably be easiest. The headers in my experience are kind of hard to remove because they're almost pressure fitted, and unless you have really good wick or an expensive ass hakko, it's hard to remove all of the solder. Do you think you might have accidentally knocked anything loose when you desoldered? Because if that was the case, you really did all you could with what you had at your disposal. The other option imo would be to re-tin the header, remove all of the solder as best as you can, cover the rest of the board in the orange thermal tape and then have someone wave a cheap heat gun over the header while you try to evenly pull the header out with some needlenoses or something. One of those four arm board holders might be handy as well. I'm pretty much just a hobbyist though and some other people have given some good advice in the comments. This project rocks man, your other projects are great as well. You did the cyberdeck right? And the laptop made from a keyboard with a screen (I think that was another dude, and I'm misremembering your second DIY cyberdeck made with a mechanical keyboard as a base)? Glad you uploaded, I love the way you build shit. It's creative and janky. Just as I would have done something like this haha. Good luck on future projects man.
most of the companies you buy from play the "lets send free crap to media people" game... ...I'd argue that them being willing to support non-review videos is better than requiring pre-screened ""reviews"" in exchange for free products, like many companies try to do on UA-cam
Divoom: "Dude, all we wanted was a review".
It's really cool that they accepted this
same i want a view, not this trash he made
@@UltimateEntity trash?
@МЕМЕ.ехе you wanted a review of something that's just serving as the shell instead of the actual cool thing he made?
@@4rtie that cool thing is just the replaced inside which most peps can do the same
After seeing tons of other people's projects on UA-cam come out _so perfectly,_ seeing a project like this be so scuffed is oddly like an aggravating breath of fresh air. Like seeing someone play your favorite video game poorly, this makes me want to do this project myself, lol! Great vid honestly, keep at it.
thanks….. i think
Yes. Seeing others do things perfectly makes me feel like there is an incredibly high standard that most people are capable of achieving when they do these projects. But to see a big name guy such as Mr. Hurd fail and have various bloopers during the production of this project was just refreshing. Goes to show that mistakes are more common than what is perceived online!
That's the premis of UA-cam, it was supposed to be a platform full of screw-ups but ended up with full of professional builds as well as screw-ups. Basically Everything & nothing is perfect & that's what makes UA-cam a decent platform.
That's a resonance port but with a diaphragm in it to prevent dust ingress. It allows the speaker cone to move freely in the chassis regardless of changes in pressure internally. someone else might know more than me
This makes a lot of sense. Thanks!
Only thing I can add is everything he said significantly extends the low frequency response of the driver. Why it had a solid, quality sound to it vs hollow plastic sounding.
Nice touch on their part.
Looks more like a passive radiator (sometimes called "drone cone"). It's like a speaker that isn't powered, it only uses the pressure inside of the speaker enclosure that the main driver (speaker) is creating, to extend the low end of the unit. It's pretty common in 2- and 3-way nearfield studio monitors nowadays since they usually are using small woofers that can't recreate low frequencies (usually 5" and below). Using a passive radiator, instead of having bass ports, lets you place the monitors closer to walls without loosing low end information. Portable bluetooth speakers also use passive radiators instead of bass ports because you probably don't want large holes in your bluetooth speaker where dirt and moisture can enter.
_"In the same way as a ported loudspeaker, a passive radiator system uses the sound pressure otherwise trapped in the enclosure to excite a resonance that makes it easier for the speaker system to create the deepest pitches"_
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passive_radiator_(speaker)
@@nj1255 Found the relevant comment.
Also the passive radiator adds cubic space so the box that the speaker is in acts bigger than it is and still gives tight bass like a sealed box does vs a ported box in which the bass is looser. But louder. Best of both worlds... Louder and tighter.
The fact that you'll just clip anything... Amazing. And the shout out to your family, you a real one!
Alright gang we're gonna find out happens when I clip this random object.
Fun Fact: You can clip anything (Warning not responsible if it breaks)
@@NoFaceCobain clip your gun tasting
kinda surprised he didn't try to clip the 40pin header off.
White part is a ported passive radiator. In this case its basically making the whole enclosure into a bandpass.
I like your funny words magic man
Love how inperfect it is.
Other people vids of same shit is so perfect, it look fake.
Cool build! Some (hopefully_ useful tips for the future:
1. Typically you want a desoldering gun, a soldering iron, and fresh solder, to remove a large pin header like that. You want to tin one of the pins on the embedded header with fresh solder, then use the desoldering gun to remove all the solder from that pin. Repeat for all 40 pins and then it will come cleanly out. (alternatively you can buy a Raspberry Pi without the pin headers and just solder the one you want on).
2. Highly suggest getting a Dremel for next time, as they offer you a lot more control over the removal and shaping of material on a piece.
Overall, it's a neat little project!
solder braid does the job for me
@@cliveramsbotty6077 That also works, but it can be tricky for things like this. Regardless, he has options :)
yeah! i cringed at the glass breaking, and with the very bad soldering job. the PC is still very cute but could've also used a custom UI to fit with the retro look more xD
I like this technique: ua-cam.com/video/9jpotpIO1-U/v-deo.html
Soldering all the pins together then using some prying force once they're all melted.
@@samhud4 A bit riskier on the PCB, but it's a possibility
Your duracell screw driver threw me off for a sec 😂
this janky, makeshift, but modern version of the janky, makeshift, but futuristic cyberpunk style of making electronics is so cool
Cutting off the corners of the display is the most disrespectful thing ive ever seen and i love it
The white piece going to the port on the back is a bass diffuser.
It's basically a speaker cone without a magnet or coil, and it's used to make the cabinet produce bass like a ported cabinet, but keeping it airtight like a sealed cabinet, giving a decent balance between both types. Good deep bass response, but also a decent punchy response for the mids.
That port with the white part is called a passive radiator and yes it makes the bass feel more seperate from the main speakers but it doesn't have a voice coil
3:40 Wowwwww!!!!!!! Simply fantastic
that domed display is BEAUTIFUL. i'll definitely do that once i get around to making a cyberdeck :)
I felt hurt when I see you just trim whatever the hell you wanted to trim.
This might be the coolest thing I've seen today
I've been wanting to make something like this as a bit of an art piece to display in my home studio. Essentially I just want to be able to run milkytracker or fasttracker on it in a constant loop and when people ask, "what is this?" I'd just have them hit a mute button on the keyboard that would let them hear the music. Milkytracker runs on raspberry pi's so your kinda already there with it.
This was the msot chaotic thing I'd witnessed this week but I gotta say, it is a cute mini PC. I reluctantly enjoyed this 😅😅.
No idea what you just said but I absolutely loved it. Thanks for this build.
The company sent me this wanting a review, but I don’t do reviews, so I thought it’d be funny to do this instead
@@CarterHurd Oh, I got that part, lol, it's just the teck-babble stuff after, like some cool popular mechanics asmr. Good stuff.
Oh man, removing pin headers is a PAIN.
I was doing the same today and I have some tips for you. Yes, it's easier if you remove the plastic spacers, I sometimes cut through them by melting them with the soldering iron - it's not pretty, but it puts less strain on the traces than just pulling at them. Make your soldering iron hotter than you normally would just for soldering, like 350/400 degrees. Once you have the pins out and you want to clean up the holes, try using solder wick and flux instead of the sucker: Get your solder wick and drag it through flux so it's saturated, then press it to the pin holes with your iron and it will wick up the solder cleanly. If it's not wicking, try more flux. I think you can get pre-fluxed solder wick, so maybe try that. Wick with no flux is really difficult to get to work. Also have heard good things about hollow desoldering needles but haven't tried them yet.
oh also it sounds wierd but sometimes I find it helps to ADD solder to the headers at the start because fresh quality solder is often easier to remove than whatever they used on the board at the manufacturer.
@@isaacgraphics1416 fyi its likely because soldering wire is low temperature alloy, while industrial flow solder station use cheaper alloys.
Tin+lead is lower temp but because of regulations they prefer to just use tin at higher temps.
Lead-free soldering wire alloy uses silver or bismuth i believe and is more expensive
That's the most brilliant procrastinating work of an engineer I've ever seen lol
if you hold the raspberry pi securely upside down, you can heat up the pins individually and using a pair of needle nose pliers pull the pins out through the plastic, when the pins get hot they will slide through the plastic with ease so they do not need to be removed
I believe the rubber membrane is supposed to be a "bass reflex speaker" which effectively makes the internal size of the enclosure appear acoustically larger to the driver. It effectively acts like a spring.
nice build my man always like seeing your process!
That is cute. I think I'd use it as a timer in the kitchen.
Total respect for your skills and determination to see this through. Like other comments I found your raw honesty and "warts and all" delivery really refreshing - thank you. Of course I checked out the link to buy the cute little speaker and saw that they have some other cool designs that I will be checking out too. In this case I think I got to the part where you're snipping off the corners of the LCD screen and I said to myself - it would have been so much easier to design the entire case to size in Tinkercad 🤣. But that would have been a totally different type of challenge. Once again, well done sir!
Glowing heart of optimism... 🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣🤣😂🤣😂
Love it!
You've made the best looking little Pico8 console ever!
It makes me so mad that your channel is as popular as it is and you still make videos where you’re using one hand to hold your phone, clumsily doing everything else with the other. Number one content media pet peeve
For the desoldering of the header on something delicate like the raspeberry Pi, I would first add flux and leaded solder onto the existing pin header (to induce some lead into the lead-less solder that these ROHS boards use- it has a higher melting temp and is less ductile- a bit harder to work with), then remove as much of the existing solder as I could using solder wick/braid (or a solder sucker/desoldering gun), and then use some chip quick (indium low-melt solder) to flow into the bit of solder that you can't remove. Then a small amount of heat will melt the indium and you can remove the header (a heat gun works best, but a soldering iron or even a hair dryer will melt indium solder). Remove the rest of the indium solder with solder wick, flux and add a bit of a solder base to the pads, then add your new header. It's a bit of work, but I was having board layers separate and pads lift on certain delicate boards when trying to use just desolder. Even if you don't use the indium chip quick solder, definately replacing the lead-less solder that comes on the board with leaded solder will help get the pins off and not use as much heat. Also- get a heat gun- they are invaluable, especially when doing SMD or large headers. And get a temp controlled soldering iron- I had that same iron you're using an upgraded to a cheap Weller variable temp unit- it's analog without a temp gauge, but it has a dial for more/less power. It works really well- allows you to lower the heat for leaded solder and up it for lead-less solder. Ok! Good hunting!
Seems like the perfect job for a Zero 2 W.
The thing in the back is called a passive radiator. It actually emits sound, in this case, bass. It's weighted down to get the frequency response wanted. This kind of small speaker wouldn't be able to play this full of a sound without DSP (Digital Signal processor) that does some funky math and filtering to the sound before it's sent to the actual speaker. The science behind this is called "Psychoacoustics"
Cute dog alert @4:08!
b-b-but does it play Doooom?
Well, I did try MineCraft... the WASD keys are way too small
So for the pins flip it over heat the solder point with the iron till liquid then use the solder sucker to remove most then heat up each pin with solder wic and it should then just fall out
You can cut glass under water without it cracking. If you were to do it on displays, you might have to use destilled water.
This was the second video of yours I've seen and I'm soo glad I found your channel. This kind of stuff is what I want to learn how to do. But with zero experience I'm trying to figure out where to start. Good shit man
Just stumbled onto this channel and I've never seen a more satisfying jank build. The cracked screen even gives it more character lmao
Welp… If you like jank you’re gonna like a lot of my other videos haha
I use flat tip solder iron and make contact on the pins and try pushing them. I don't have fancy equipment but it always works for me, just need to be patient, and then take a desoldering braid and remove the excess solder left on the board!
If that thing was an actual product for the Raspberry Pi, I’d buy that right now.
only problem is there are no raspy pi's lol
@@jotr.9786 unless you check Amazon, but they’re selling them for $100.
@@MasterH2005 even some of the used ones are selling for around 100$ lol
That thing was actually legit quality.
The rough, one handed dissassembly and snipping screens, shortened my life by a year. other than that, great video.
Really cool project, love the variety on this channel
I always use a heat gun for removing headers and through hole IC's. Works a charm as long as its level so you don't flow and shift something you don't mean to.
you deserve more everything, views, likes, subs. youre a great content creator; if not slightly insane
Nice build! Thanks for sharing :) The bit under the speaker is a ported passive radiator that increases the output at low frequency, it's a pretty good way of producing bass frequencies in a tiny enclosure.
That is a passive radiator to increase the volume of the low frequencies compared to the high frequencies. It's like a bass port, but with less sloppy low end.
Awesome project! Loved the build! I really like how you captured the aesthetic with the moulded plastic screen cover.
Honestly an awesome little speaker to make something out of
Love this. Id totally buy one of these! also, if you are looking for an add on idea for this, it definitely needs an rfid reader so you could make it more useful for daily operation like for spotify playlists or audiobooks
trimming a grass with a scissor is such a chaotic evil move
I’d like to think it’s chaotic neutral
Coming back to rewatch and comment for the algo. 👍🏻
I'm in love with this. Totally something I'd do and I'm glad you did it for me. Eben though I would've had fun making it and oogled over how cute it was for a few days, I also have no use for it either.
Side note, at 4:16, you can barely see the thing as the UA-cam recommendation gets in the way. Something to remember to watch for on and take into account for in future videos. Anyways, glad I saw this in my recommendations and am looking forward to seeing what more you come up with in the future. Until then, I've got some work to do binging your previous videos.
Good catch, I’ll move the recommendation box thanks
@@CarterHurd Didn't know you can move that in post. Thanks!
Very random youtube recommendations but your video was good, the cyber deck looks so small but fully functional
Thanks. And good to hear my channel is actually getting recommended to non-subscribers by the Algo, I still have no idea why/how certain videos get promoted
@@CarterHurd Im not really sure about that, I like to see more video about fully functional portable cyber deck like this , maybe I should considering subscribe
@@CarterHurd how about something like handheld cyber deck that actually a pc
OK for the screen edges use some griding tool , and for the keyboard too.for desolder 40 pin , the simplest way mask the hole rasberri with capton tape and aluminium foil , and then use heatgun , but prehet the panel with hair dryer.
Dude, such a good project. i really like that u did that because you can do it. That is the point You said you don't know what to do with it you don't need to do anything you just saw that you can
How you get a 40 pin Dupont connector off?
You buy a ZD915 and a bit of flux and go over each pin with around 400 degrees C after you let it work for half a second you trigger the pump. This will likely work, but if it does not, take goot wick (brand) or some other nicer wick and go over them again with fresh leaded solder or even better low melt bismuth solder with copious amounts of flux. Do this outside since it stinks or suck the air off.
3:24 "I ordered a new Raspberry Pi"
HOW??? Where did you get one?? How much did it cost?
I bought a used Pi 2 model B, cause none of the newer ones were available
FUCKING FINALLY! I'VE BEEN LOOKING SO LONG FOR SOMEONE SELLING A KEYBOARD PHONE SIZED KEYBOARD! THANK CHRIST!
it's out of stock. that's fine, I don't have my mounting mechanism set up yet. fr though, this is a fucking lifesaver, even at 30 bucks. I can finally convert my smartphone into slide phone.
You are truly a talented person. 👍
Great work. Inspiring. Just stumbled upon this video and your channel today. Really loved what you did here.
Welcome aboard!
Heat gun or a hot air flow rework station to remove 40 pin. Super easy, barely an inconvenience.
So cute, holy hell
Nah that's ugly
It is perfectly possible to remove an IDC header like this without special tools. Make sure that you add fresh leaded solder to lower the melting point, heat up the joint until molten and grab the pin from the opposite side of the PCB and pull straight up. The hot pin will pull out, straight trough the plastic part and come out without any mess.
Wick it with braided copper. It'll melt the solder and release the plastic. The wicking on the other side of the board will basically hold on to the pins, and you should just be able to pull them off with little resistance.
@@juansolo1617 That's how i used to do it, but the wicking action takes longer, so much more chance of damaging the PCB and especially the trough-hole-plating.
What I do to remove the headers is just go pin by pin. If you just put your souldering iron on 1 pin at a timd, wait for the solded to melt completely and gently push on the pin, yout can get most of the way through, from there I grab it with a small pair of pliers ant lift it out of the board completely.
Use it to edit a video, film the process.
Slow performance.
@@ryzenryne8747 a 144p video is still a video
@@chepulis yes 144p is still viewable but the device where it came from is crappy.
This is honestly probably better than a review lol
I love this channel. This thing is interesting
Dude you are a genius
Fun to see the BBQ20KBD being used for this, cool project!
You need a solder wick. Also, use a slow Dremel grinder AND WATCH WHAT YOU'RE DOING to trim corners on repurposed pcbs.
**closes eyes in lieu of safety glasses*
Chad amongst gods, stay winning.
Nice Video. Desoldering the headers I'd either use a desoldering station or surprisingly the Engineer solder sucker SS-02 also works pretty well.
still find it hilarious how you have the gall to say no to a review AND still ask for a free product anyway, and they actually sent you one as well
You’d be surprised how many brands want to send free stuff with no strings attached. I normally turn it all down. When a UA-camr does a “what’s in my bag” video, you can bet that like 1/2 of it was all free. This is why I don’t do reviews, and only trust UA-cam reviews by large million+ sub channels that aren’t going to be swayed by little giveaways.
oh I'm here for this.
i find that if you heat header pins individually high enough you can pull them out with small pliers at the same time, even if they are soldered on to a board. this still takes a lot of effort but it is doable. that might work with the pi as well.
If you played Doom or Gran Turismo on it during the demo you would've been god-tier mini computer guy.
It's SO cute!
At least that speaker got to play some Bob Seger before it was taken apart.
Dude this thing is sick I'll buy it
All the more reasons to say "Wait, let me pull up my tiny PC" instead of mundane "I just googled..." at parties! :D
to remove header pin you need a good solder wick gootwick is good and you need some good flux. also a nice and hot iron is good like a hacko. you wick up all the solder and then i like to run the iron uo and down the piins slowly and use a small screwdriver pry it up off the board.
You should use soldering wick to remove those pins instead of desoldering pump they will come right off.
This literally reminds me of that 7 year old Microsoft vs Apple Ad
4:00 I think this junk in the trunk is pretty cool
Nice job but... 1 doubts and a suggestion:
- Why dont you solder the wires in to the raspberry board??
- The next time use a dremmel for cut the screen :)
Anyway, thanks for your video!
Didn’t know that grown up Andrew from The Big Mouth had a UA-cam channel!
Nice voice, bro
this is cool but has the same problem with most of these projects "i dont know what im gonna do with it" lol
Why not 3D print a deeper base/bottom cover to fit the pi more easily?
Cause views. I bet this shit went directly to the bin after
omg ive always wondered if you could make this into a tiny computer and now i know! :D now i want to make my own lol, hope you don’t mind
Do it!
Dude imagine what ANT MAN could do with this!
You can actually remove the headers fairly easily with the tools you have plus a heat gun. You don't want to bend the pins to remove the plastic. If you have to, use some sharp lead cutters to cut everything into individual squares. Then you can go one by one like you did which would probably be easiest. The headers in my experience are kind of hard to remove because they're almost pressure fitted, and unless you have really good wick or an expensive ass hakko, it's hard to remove all of the solder. Do you think you might have accidentally knocked anything loose when you desoldered? Because if that was the case, you really did all you could with what you had at your disposal. The other option imo would be to re-tin the header, remove all of the solder as best as you can, cover the rest of the board in the orange thermal tape and then have someone wave a cheap heat gun over the header while you try to evenly pull the header out with some needlenoses or something. One of those four arm board holders might be handy as well. I'm pretty much just a hobbyist though and some other people have given some good advice in the comments. This project rocks man, your other projects are great as well. You did the cyberdeck right? And the laptop made from a keyboard with a screen (I think that was another dude, and I'm misremembering your second DIY cyberdeck made with a mechanical keyboard as a base)? Glad you uploaded, I love the way you build shit. It's creative and janky. Just as I would have done something like this haha. Good luck on future projects man.
The trimming is frightning
I like the way you just hack peice of electronics off to make em fit
Yes, for low frequencies - subwoofer port style.
This is a fun build but why didn't you 3d print a bottom?
I cant believe what Divoom would have thought of this . they be like 👁👄👁 "the hell"
Cutting edges of glass is a good way to get shards of glass Everywhere! Use a Dremel and smooth those ends off next time.
i’m thinking next time I’ll just use my teeth
this honestly makes me feel bad for paying for their stuff if they're just going to give it away to be destroyed instead of used
most of the companies you buy from play the "lets send free crap to media people" game...
...I'd argue that them being willing to support non-review videos is better than requiring pre-screened ""reviews"" in exchange for free products, like many companies try to do on UA-cam
Its not really destroyed its like a dented car. Its ryined but you can drive it
my friend had that black berry I found the touch button cool, I much preferred the roller ball mine had though
The roller ball was super cool