Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video: 🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd 🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre 🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack): homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R 🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant: homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
Put your molding on then spray foam from the inside and pull the weather strip out to screw behind them so when you put the strip back they hide the screws.
Sometimes (usually in an old house or house that has settled a lot) your jack studs will be twisted off plane with each other. In a perfect world, the door slab is flush with the drywall and there is a perfect 90 degrees in between the drywall/door slab and the jack studs (a horizontal plane 90 degrees). Then when you put your jamb and slab in, there should be a perfect 90 degree angle (horizontal plane 90 degrees) in between the door slab and the s-jamb and h-jamb. If the jack studs are twisted off plane and then you put your jamb in and shim, there's a high chance you're about to twist the jamb off plane as well. The str-jamb and hing-jamb may be perfectly plumb, but they can be twisted off plane which means your strike jamb and hinge jamb aren't perfectly parallel with each other. It may be a very mild twist and not enough to affect the door shutting but sometimes it does but that's usually a problem you'll run into in an old house. This is a rare problem but probably the most invisible problem to a lot of people hanging doors because you need a square to see it. You can get around this problem by using unbalanced shimming, meaning you might have to have an extra shim on one side than the other or you have equal # of shims on both sides but you had to drive one in farther in order to twist the jamb into proper alignment. But if you are hanging a door and you're showing plumb but the door is still scrubbing, then check your parallel of jamb legs (on both sides of the jamb legs, not just one side)
About to replace and exterior back door on an older rental home I own. This video has been so helpful. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how its done in the real world!😉
You want low expanding foam according to instructions. But no it cannot force the door and screws out of plumb. What happens is the foam will expand out the front and back side and you cut the excess off.
Great video, but this outswing left hand door seems to have hinges on the outside which allows hinge-corrosion or burglar entry by knocking out 3 the pins.
Do you consider it a security issue to have your exterior door swing out? Having your hinges accessible from the outside seems risky. I ask this because I have an exterior door that needs replacing and, because of how the interior walls are situated, it would be better to have it swing out rather than in but I'm worried about security.
wait wait wait wait. you're telling me you put the hinges on the exterior?? is that so any random person can come by, remove the hinge pins or cut them and walk on in? how has no one noticed this? why not just flip the lock and have the keyed side of the dead bolt on the inside lol?
Good door brand. For an exterior door, I prefer they swing inside into the room and preferably open against a wall. This one was right on the front corner of the garage...a little odd location. Good install BTW...I never agreed with snapping off the shims...they are best cut/trimmed flush and clean. This original build really screwed up where the lockset latches into the door frame. I have seen some of those studs just too far away and shimmed just enough that the door frame itself acts as the dead bolt latch...not secure at all. Would be best to have a 4x4 at all locks ! But I'm sure thats just asking too much. Good review Jeff
That’s a good way to get trapped in your house. Someone could barricade you inside. Exterior Doors always open in, especially if you live where it snows.
Great video Jeff! You do such a great job and put so much effort into explaining everything. Looking forward to more how-to and DIY videos like this :)
Excellent video!! I've never done an exterior door, but in the last two years I did six interior doors in my house. On one of them, I walled off the wide pocket doors, (leaving them intact inside) and got to install the new door in my own wall! I went for level and plumb using the closed door to manipulate the gaps, and then did a light check. I didn't do as good a job on three of them as you did on this one, especially with their trim, so I guess I should ask them if those doors are still working fine...
Good video I do remodeling and have been restoring old homes since I was 10 yrs old .My father taught me most of what I know and I completely understand how the real world and video fantasy land are .I like to find good content just for review and it turns out I was taught the rite way when it comes to door installation. GOOD VIDEO BY REAL PRO !
Great useful video! I have a practical suggestion from personal experience for anyone interested: If a reciprocating saw is not available to you for the removal of the frame, one can first use a magnet to find hidden nails and screws. The nails can then be removed with a small nail puller that costs around $15 or less - and it's quite a satisfying process!
Should the mounting screws going through the hinges into the wall be installed behind the weather stripping, which is in the center of the frame? It looks like the hinges are not in the middle of t he frame, which means installing mounting screws into the hinge would pitch the frame forward.
Dude says use a crowbar....hes holding the most important crowbar in tool history in his hands. That big ass screwdriver is the most multi multi tool there is.
I'm not planning on replacing a door yet but Jeff does a good job explaining it. I have a metal front door that can use fresh paint whenever I get spare time to try and do that
lol. how stupid. has anyone figured out yet to put one piece in each corner? all you have to do is put a 1/8 perpendicular piece of wood in all four corners
Why are you fighting trying to remove the jamb from its rough opening? Cut it up in place with your Saws all. Congratulations on installing the intended inside of the door on the outside. Now your weatherstripping is worthless being in the wrong spot and letting rain in all around the door.
level plumb square and true , too bad you did not show how any of these corrections are made , besides level , like what do if it was not square when you checked it
Thank you. Installing an exterior door today for my Mom's 1940s home that was put together by a house mover who liked to combine houses. There is always a new guess how to repair things around here. This video feels like it will be very helpful. We shall see how it goes!
now if i can just get my apt complex to watch this video. i have air gaps all around my door, their idea was to put bigger weather stripping and sticky weather stripping on the existing weather stripping. pure garbage. it takes two hands and a shoulder to close the door now. trash.
If they used sticky, it might be done wrong. Some doors have a slit where weather proofing slides into it, or you can nail the wedge shaped weather stripping on there so it pinches against the door.
I disagree with you on using expanding foam. Even with the shims and screws it will still expand the door casing. A lesson learned from a previous experience. Use Non-Expanding foam.
If the pre-hung door jam is tacked, (screwed) to opening 2x4’s in a solid fashion, there is no foam in the world that can move the door out of balance. It’s all about preparations. The foam is not the enemy. Drafts and shotty workmanship from inexperienced contractors is.
This foam does not expand as much it is made for windows and doors. I check with him every week since November when we installed it, the door is working fine, so your theory of the foam being able to magically bend screws is not correct in this case. It would have happened by the next day when it cured.
Hi! Thanks for the video ☺ I just have one question. In many places, the wooden wedges are removed and any holes are filled. You sawed it off. Is it okay if you stay inside? Which is the better solution?
The door is backwards. Great video and tips but the door should swing inside. Or The hinge pins should be inside. A thief could easily tap them out and take the door off
Lol... if only it were this easy. Sill plate was at an angle and the wall studs around the door were slanted due to some water damage to the joists at one point (but is now fixed!). The door itself was also nowhere near square when not installed. 4 packs of shims later and it mostly closes and seals well. Need another 2 packs to get it perfect.
Good video, but I wish you had finished the door install with putting the trim back on. Also, you kind of skipped over a couple things like when you started to cut the nails with the saws all, you didn't say what you were doing until later in the video. Same with the removal of the old foam. I wasn't sure what was going on at that point. Also, this looks like it is definitely a 2 person job, which would be a good point to make when you make these videos. Otherwise this was very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
No short-cuts. He did every thing, and more, to get this new... into old, to be plumb Square and true.... click. That is the sound of all that working together on a Jeld Wend replacement door. I am facing a replacement, but My rough opening is all wood, with a brick exterior to clean up. The foam brick mold is a piece of cake to finish up with. I've done many doors but you can't beat instructions like this, when you've been out of the game awhile... He screwed it real good... LOL.
No when your a home owner the first thing you should do is make a list of required tools and either purchase them or see if you can borrow them so you get the job done right the first time.
Doors are one of those installs where you know exactly what the final product needs to look like installed, but getting to that point is always a challenge!
Wow! A challenge for sure! And not for the faint of heart for anyone that has not done it before! It seems like it should be so easy, but au contraire! 🤔😳🙄🙄🙄😀👍✌🏻🔨
The only thing good about this video is that your using dewalt tools. - First fix the rotten corner of the building Before doing anything else - Add a pan to the floor before the door goes in - never silicone the front edge . The silicone is applied on the sides and back edge on top of the pan( if water gets in it needs to roll out the front) - Never leave shims in the top jamb, if the header settles, then the frame will also - you keep saying “ level the door” the only thing you level is the sill. You “ plumb” the side jambs - the deadbolt should have a “ deadbolt box” installed into the jamb off the wall otherwise it does nothing - Stainless screws should be used everywhere, not just “ galv exterior “ - This is Not how us professional Framers install doors at all…
Really? Never silicone the front edge? I guess you have never heard of driving rain before. Since we omitted the sill pan, sealing the front edge to prevent water and insects is the correct procedure. Fix the corner of the building? Oh wow, we never thought of that! Maybe you could cover that cost for the homeowners, as the door was all that was in the budget for them. Lots of things on that old house needed fixing. You guys always forget the homeowners often have no money to make necessary repairs, and you chide them for it and judge them for it, which is way too common behavior I see from you guys. We don't always use a sill pan here in fL on a concrete entry. It's not the end of the world if you don't have one. also, you are wrong about leveling the door, you don' just level the sill, you level the top, if your top is not level, then your top left and right will not be square and there goes your 1/8" reveal line, and your door won't close, but congrats on that level bottom though! Surely as a professional framer, you should have known that, so it is puzzling that your statement was so far off from being plumb! You don't just plumb the sides, you make sure they are plumb in both directions.
@@jeffostroff Jeff, as a owner of a custom framing company on cape cod running two crews of 20 men each, your wrong…how do you level the top jamb ? Disconnect it from the side jambs ? If the sill is level the top is level…I said plumb the sides that means all sides..completely wrong using silicone in the front and always use a pan , wether it’s a plastic pan or lead , no water can penetrate under a door and over the top of the pan. And yes you don’t leave a rotted corner , fix it at your cost . Certainly a good place for your bugs to enter. And no mention of the dead bolt box , non Stainless screws, it was a handyman repair you did , not professionally. Lack of money is not an excuse to not repair or install something properly.
@@jncn1490 Nice snobby attitude. your clients on cape cod have the money to pay for extra goodies like spending thousands to repair the building first. Our friends in this part of town are simple folks barely scraping by. Yes the pan is a good thing to have, but here in FL, I have never seen a single contractor install one. Also again you are wrong about the top plate being level if the bottom is. Put enough bowed pressure on one of those side frame members and the frame goes out of square I see e it all the time.
I agree with JN CN, this was clearly a homeowner/DIY type of install and not professional, you've obviously been sitting in front of a camara on UA-cam to long and don't do it as a profession anymore. The screws also should of been hide behind the weather stripping for a cleaner install, the way you did it just looks messy having screw heads exposed and needing to be filled and painted to hide. I also agree the corner should have been fixed, even if the homeowner couldn't afford it, your clearly filming this for UA-cam to make money off of showing how to install a door, you could of offered to fix it at your cost in exchange for allowing you to film and profit from the video.
@@jasonbronson672 Most pre-hung doors are a DIY. A real wood craftsman would sling out his equipment and make his own door jambs after careful prep of the rough door opening and then begin to router the hinges and lockset locations. He'd also charge them much more money but it would be a solid install. Just my opinion, that door is in a terrible location.
Hinges on the outside? That's a new one for an exterior door. What stops someone wanting to break in from just popping out the hinge pins and pulling the door out of the frame?
What about when one wall is 1.5 inches off at the sill from the other side ? You can't make it level plumb and square. You just can't. I've spent a 12 hr day fighting it. It takes installing many doors to realize you do the best you can to the eye , and make the door operable , where it will open up and close decently easy, and modify the lock catches to latch decent. I've installed hundreds and 1 out of 3 are like this especially in older homes. If the walls are mostly true, then yes you can go level
Have you thought about pouring down some self leveling compound to level the bottom of the floor first? I think that would be something I would look into I do this all the time in bathrooms before I tile I have to always get them level first
@@jeffostroff No, I don't mean the floor.... Of course, if it was out of level that's exactly what I would do. I mean if you were looking from the top of the wall down one wall is an inch and a half to 2 in away from the other wall if you were to chalk a line straight from wall to wall. So it ends up that your hinge side Is one or 2 in one way and the latch side is the opposite way cocking the door all crooked. I've done a lot of doors and it takes a true master to get a door like that to work. You will literally fight it for hours. I found the only way to make it work is do your best to line it up with the walls and the drywall etc. And then you just have to reroute and chisel hinges and catches
Great video. Learned even more. Best so far. Would be helpful if you mention how much you save by doing it yourself or what new tools you might gain and what are the costs of some of these items. Might date the video some but we can see maybe if the entire project is worth doing it yourself. I am already looking at replacing the frame or parts of it because of water/insect damage. Need to know what to do to protect bottom wood frame or top because the builder didn't drop the outside of the door concrete pad so splash is happening. My outside garage door area really didn't last ten years. Coming on 18 years and I am just getting replacing it after a temporary fixes finally failed.
@@jeffostroff Doing mine now. Ran into some carpenter ants. Bottom damage to the frame and probaably took too long for a first timer. Now I have to go buy a door. Either ripping out the frame to cinder block or just reuse the top portion after cutting out the bottom. I had water damage on the bottom and the design has no step or gap to the front so water damage is going to keep happening unless I cover the whole outer concrete pad with the a/c unit. Have crowbar will travel.
Affiliate links to tools and parts in this video:
🛒 Dewalt Atomic DCF850 Compact Impact Driver homedepot.sjv.io/rnboQd
🛒 DeckMate 3 in. Exterior Self-Starting Wood Deck Screws #9 (1 lb./73 pcs): homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnre
🛒 Tapcon 1/4 in. x 3-3/4 in. Star Flat-Head Concrete Anchors (25-Pack): homedepot.sjv.io/VyjA0R
🛒 Loctite Tite Foam Pro Can Window and Door 19.6 oz. Spray Foam Sealant: homedepot.sjv.io/9WBnqe
Note: Some links we provide for you are affiliate links which if you click on them and buy something, we may receive a small affiliate commission. We appreciate you supporting our efforts to continue to bring you world-class tool reviews, remodeling, and repair videos, tool giveaways, and shop with me videos looking for the best discount tool deals.
Put your molding on then spray foam from the inside and pull the weather strip out to screw behind them so when you put the strip back they hide the screws.
Yep that's how my fam does it too... always hide them behind the weatherstripping
Sometimes (usually in an old house or house that has settled a lot) your jack studs will be twisted off plane with each other. In a perfect world, the door slab is flush with the drywall and there is a perfect 90 degrees in between the drywall/door slab and the jack studs (a horizontal plane 90 degrees). Then when you put your jamb and slab in, there should be a perfect 90 degree angle (horizontal plane 90 degrees) in between the door slab and the s-jamb and h-jamb. If the jack studs are twisted off plane and then you put your jamb in and shim, there's a high chance you're about to twist the jamb off plane as well. The str-jamb and hing-jamb may be perfectly plumb, but they can be twisted off plane which means your strike jamb and hinge jamb aren't perfectly parallel with each other. It may be a very mild twist and not enough to affect the door shutting but sometimes it does but that's usually a problem you'll run into in an old house. This is a rare problem but probably the most invisible problem to a lot of people hanging doors because you need a square to see it. You can get around this problem by using unbalanced shimming, meaning you might have to have an extra shim on one side than the other or you have equal # of shims on both sides but you had to drive one in farther in order to twist the jamb into proper alignment. But if you are hanging a door and you're showing plumb but the door is still scrubbing, then check your parallel of jamb legs (on both sides of the jamb legs, not just one side)
I've been watching videos here on UA-cam. Yours is the best by far. Your videos are for the common man. Thanks again
I appreciate that! Shawn!
About to replace and exterior back door on an older rental home I own. This video has been so helpful.
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain how its done in the real world!😉
So do you want normal expanding foam or low expanding ? Thinking the regular might force the door frame out of plum and square
You want low expanding foam according to instructions. But no it cannot force the door and screws out of plumb. What happens is the foam will expand out the front and back side and you cut the excess off.
Great video, but this outswing left hand door seems to have hinges on the outside which allows hinge-corrosion or burglar entry by knocking out 3 the pins.
These are security hinges, where pins cannot be knocked out
Thumbs up for the accurate, rough framing diagram provided.
Do you consider it a security issue to have your exterior door swing out? Having your hinges accessible from the outside seems risky.
I ask this because I have an exterior door that needs replacing and, because of how the interior walls are situated, it would be better to have it swing out rather than in but I'm worried about security.
They are security hinges that cannot be popped
@@jeffostroff Ah nice! Thanks!
And the door is not protected by the weatherstrip when it swings out.
wait wait wait wait. you're telling me you put the hinges on the exterior?? is that so any random person can come by, remove the hinge pins or cut them and walk on in? how has no one noticed this? why not just flip the lock and have the keyed side of the dead bolt on the inside lol?
These are security hinges, no way to remove them
@@jeffostroff I gotcha, sorry I hadn't seen you responded to a similar reply already. Thanks for the video and reply, have a good day!
Very common in I’m guessing Florida
@@mikevernacchio5384 very lol
Good eye! I didn't notice that!
Good door brand. For an exterior door, I prefer they swing inside into the room and preferably open against a wall. This one was right on the front corner of the garage...a little odd location.
Good install BTW...I never agreed with snapping off the shims...they are best cut/trimmed flush and clean. This original build really screwed up where the lockset latches into the door frame. I have seen some of those studs just too far away and shimmed just enough that the door frame itself acts as the dead bolt latch...not secure at all. Would be best to have a 4x4 at all locks ! But I'm sure thats just asking too much. Good review Jeff
This room was formerly a carport, with a sloped driveway so this made an interesting installation
One can never be too secure...
Great job! Except you put it in backwards lmao
No it is not in backwards, this is a locked hinge, the pin cannot be removed.
That’s a good way to get trapped in your house. Someone could barricade you inside. Exterior Doors always open in, especially if you live where it snows.
Great video Jeff! You do such a great job and put so much effort into explaining everything. Looking forward to more how-to and DIY videos like this :)
More to come!
Excellent video!! I've never done an exterior door, but in the last two years I did six interior doors in my house. On one of them, I walled off the wide pocket doors, (leaving them intact inside) and got to install the new door in my own wall! I went for level and plumb using the closed door to manipulate the gaps, and then did a light check. I didn't do as good a job on three of them as you did on this one, especially with their trim, so I guess I should ask them if those doors are still working fine...
This install is still doing great. You will get better with each install
Good video I do remodeling and have been restoring old homes since I was 10 yrs old .My father taught me most of what I know and I completely understand how the real world and video fantasy land are .I like to find good content just for review and it turns out I was taught the rite way when it comes to door installation. GOOD VIDEO BY REAL PRO !
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it Jeremy
What manufacture of outside door do you prefer? Perfect timing of the video, I need to replace a front door in Florida. Thanks
I have used Jeld-Wen a number of times, this was a metal insulated door from Lowes, we were happy with it
@@jeffostroff Thanks.
Great useful video!
I have a practical suggestion from personal experience for anyone interested:
If a reciprocating saw is not available to you for the removal of the frame, one can first use a magnet to find hidden nails and screws. The nails can then be removed with a small nail puller that costs around $15 or less - and it's quite a satisfying process!
6:08 my man just actually said "fasTeners"....
LoL! I pointed that out to my "Dearest". She said I was the only one that would notice that. Thanks, pal!
You mentioned that the concrete was not level so you shimmed it. Did you do anything else? Wouldn't there be a gap under the door?
Should the mounting screws going through the hinges into the wall be installed behind the weather stripping, which is in the center of the frame? It looks like the hinges are not in the middle of t he frame, which means installing mounting screws into the hinge would pitch the frame forward.
Dude says use a crowbar....hes holding the most important crowbar in tool history in his hands. That big ass screwdriver is the most multi multi tool there is.
The most thorough door install video.
How hard would it be to convert an existing garage exterior door that swings IN, to one that swings OUT ??
I'm not planning on replacing a door yet but Jeff does a good job explaining it. I have a metal front door that can use fresh paint whenever I get spare time to try and do that
Don't forget the sill pan if your area requires it
lol. how stupid. has anyone figured out yet to put one piece in each corner? all you have to do is put a 1/8 perpendicular piece of wood in all four corners
Good video. thanks! You may want to mention to use expanding foam for windows and doors. Regular expanding foam can warp the jamb.
Yes, good idea
So the expanding foam doesn't mess with the plumb?
No it is already screwed into the rough in opening, you do apply the expanding foam last
@@jeffostroff Thank you, I needed to understand that.
They also have low expansion foam made for this purpose
why does your door swing out? That's normal in Japan but in the us doors open inward.
Foam can be dangerous...it expands, so chances are, you use too much. Too much can ruin your work.
yes you have to just squeeze in a little, and give it an exit path to expand and shave off the excess
That is a sexy flat head screwdriver, paired with no shoes and bali safety shoes. uhhhhhhhhhhhh
Great video not the best technique on finish product though man.
Door jamb directly against concrete no bueno
Why are you fighting trying to remove the jamb from its rough opening? Cut it up in place with your Saws all.
Congratulations on installing the intended inside of the door on the outside. Now your weatherstripping is worthless being in the wrong spot and letting rain in all around the door.
You are wrong, that is a security hinge, can't be popped from outside
level plumb square and true , too bad you did not show how any of these corrections are made , besides level , like what do if it was not square when you checked it
The shims take care of all that
Star drive aka Torx - when you don't have Robertson (square for Americans)
I love the Torx
Best illustration of leveling i've seen
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation!!! Greatly appreciated 👏🏻
I'm glad the explanation was helpful for you!
Thank you. Installing an exterior door today for my Mom's 1940s home that was put together by a house mover who liked to combine houses. There is always a new guess how to repair things around here. This video feels like it will be very helpful. We shall see how it goes!
Keemazon gonna love them toes Jeff😎🤦🏻♂️😎🤦🏻♂️😎
LOL, yes that was my friend Grant
For every shim, did you have to screw in?
Function over security????? Take out those 3 hinge pins and your in the house.
You can't remove these hinge pins! This is a security hinge
12:29 Are there fasteners at each Shim? Do you Anchor each of them?
I prefer to run a fastener trough every shim
Omg you noob... cut the door in half then pry it off. How much time have you wasted with that sawzall...
Tell you what NOOB, you do that and ruin the frame or something else.
@@jeffostroff yeah get good, oscillating tools are a thing too.
now if i can just get my apt complex to watch this video.
i have air gaps all around my door, their idea was to put bigger weather stripping and sticky weather stripping on the existing weather stripping. pure garbage. it takes two hands and a shoulder to close the door now. trash.
where is stud pack when you need them.
If they used sticky, it might be done wrong. Some doors have a slit where weather proofing slides into it, or you can nail the wedge shaped weather stripping on there so it pinches against the door.
Exactly how I do my doors. Not as fast as TV shows you . 😂 Real world 🌎 install, Thank you !
Glad you liked it thnaks!
I disagree with you on using expanding foam. Even with the shims and screws it will still expand the door casing. A lesson learned from a previous experience. Use Non-Expanding foam.
If the pre-hung door jam is tacked, (screwed) to opening 2x4’s in a solid fashion, there is no foam in the world that can move the door out of balance. It’s all about preparations. The foam is not the enemy. Drafts and shotty workmanship from inexperienced contractors is.
This foam does not expand as much it is made for windows and doors. I check with him every week since November when we installed it, the door is working fine, so your theory of the foam being able to magically bend screws is not correct in this case. It would have happened by the next day when it cured.
@@jeffostroff Very easy to sand the foam with an angle grinder 80 grit then install the casing/trim.
Why didn’t you install a sill pan?
Hi! Thanks for the video ☺
I just have one question.
In many places, the wooden wedges are removed and any holes are filled.
You sawed it off. Is it okay if you stay inside?
Which is the better solution?
ROFL! I think Tim Burton made that door opening. Love the vid!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
The door is backwards. Great video and tips but the door should swing inside. Or The hinge pins should be inside. A thief could easily tap them out and take the door off
I see you have got a green tool in that video!!!!! Love Ryobi!!! Good job Jeff……
Yes my friend the homeowner owns that drill driver
Lol... if only it were this easy.
Sill plate was at an angle and the wall studs around the door were slanted due to some water damage to the joists at one point (but is now fixed!). The door itself was also nowhere near square when not installed. 4 packs of shims later and it mostly closes and seals well. Need another 2 packs to get it perfect.
Good video, but I wish you had finished the door install with putting the trim back on. Also, you kind of skipped over a couple things like when you started to cut the nails with the saws all, you didn't say what you were doing until later in the video. Same with the removal of the old foam. I wasn't sure what was going on at that point. Also, this looks like it is definitely a 2 person job, which would be a good point to make when you make these videos. Otherwise this was very helpful. Thanks for posting it.
No short-cuts. He did every thing, and more, to get this new... into old, to be plumb Square and true.... click. That is the sound of all that working together on a Jeld Wend replacement door. I am facing a replacement, but My rough opening is all wood, with a brick exterior to clean up. The foam brick mold is a piece of cake to finish up with. I've done many doors but you can't beat instructions like this, when you've been out of the game awhile... He screwed it real good... LOL.
You don't do it in bare feet.
I literally busted out laughing when you showed that rough opening lol
You mean the parallelogram!
why have the hinges on the outside? anyone can take the
door off and break in...
Wrong. These are security hinges, the pins cannot be popped out.
@@jeffostroff great.Thanks,
great video
Great video! What would you say is an average cost someone can expect to pay for this type of job?
A contractor might charge you $100 or more per hour, and assume 3 or 4 hour job
My friend in CO just got a quote for this type of install... 30k
Great teching video - thank you.
Additional thanks for "my little friend" joke 😀
I am 0/3 on prehung entry doors. I thought maybe I would watch someone that knows how to do it. Excellent video.
New subscriber. You kinda sound like Stanley tucci 🤗😳
This was just in time for an upcoming to-do item! Stupid termites eating my doorframe. 🤬
Big problem here in FL especially with driving rains and bottom wood soaking up water.
Outswing exterior door very rare in my parts
They are common here in FL due to hurricane
No when your a home owner the first thing you should do is make a list of required tools and either purchase them or see if you can borrow them so you get the job done right the first time.
How would you deal with an exterior door going into an uneven concrete slab subfloor?
I swear this guy sounds exactly like Ray Liotta rip
My sill plate is 1/8 inch wider than the head plate, so it is not true. Any suggestions?
Doors are one of those installs where you know exactly what the final product needs to look like installed, but getting to that point is always a challenge!
yes, this took a few hours
Take a saws all and cut the old frame. It makes removal much easier.
So you guys didn't have to put the vapor barrier tape on?
both doors i have got so far weren't assembled correctly, putting them out of square by a solid 8th.
Yes, we see this all the time with prehung doors
Bit strange to see the rotten bottom and not do any sort of flashing ?
Wow! A challenge for sure! And not for the faint of heart for anyone that has not done it before! It seems like it should be so easy, but au contraire! 🤔😳🙄🙄🙄😀👍✌🏻🔨
It really is easy, just make sure it is level plumb true
It's like an episode of this old house
This old horse
Thanks for all the great information, now I'm going to hang my new door
So, everything hinges on the...well, hinges.
The only thing good about this video is that your using dewalt tools.
- First fix the rotten corner of the building Before doing anything else
- Add a pan to the floor before the door goes in
- never silicone the front edge . The silicone is applied on the sides and back edge on top of the pan( if water gets in it needs to roll out the front)
- Never leave shims in the top jamb, if the header settles, then the frame will also
- you keep saying “ level the door” the only thing you level is the sill. You “ plumb” the side jambs
- the deadbolt should have a “ deadbolt box” installed into the jamb off the wall otherwise it does nothing
- Stainless screws should be used everywhere, not just “ galv exterior “
- This is Not how us professional Framers install doors at all…
Really? Never silicone the front edge? I guess you have never heard of driving rain before. Since we omitted the sill pan, sealing the front edge to prevent water and insects is the correct procedure. Fix the corner of the building? Oh wow, we never thought of that! Maybe you could cover that cost for the homeowners, as the door was all that was in the budget for them. Lots of things on that old house needed fixing. You guys always forget the homeowners often have no money to make necessary repairs, and you chide them for it and judge them for it, which is way too common behavior I see from you guys. We don't always use a sill pan here in fL on a concrete entry. It's not the end of the world if you don't have one. also, you are wrong about leveling the door, you don' just level the sill, you level the top, if your top is not level, then your top left and right will not be square and there goes your 1/8" reveal line, and your door won't close, but congrats on that level bottom though! Surely as a professional framer, you should have known that, so it is puzzling that your statement was so far off from being plumb! You don't just plumb the sides, you make sure they are plumb in both directions.
@@jeffostroff Jeff, as a owner of a custom framing company on cape cod running two crews of 20 men each, your wrong…how do you level the top jamb ? Disconnect it from the side jambs ? If the sill is level the top is level…I said plumb the sides that means all sides..completely wrong using silicone in the front and always use a pan , wether it’s a plastic pan or lead , no water can penetrate under a door and over the top of the pan.
And yes you don’t leave a rotted corner , fix it at your cost . Certainly a good place for your bugs to enter.
And no mention of the dead bolt box , non Stainless screws, it was a handyman repair you did , not professionally. Lack of money is not an excuse to not repair or install something properly.
@@jncn1490 Nice snobby attitude. your clients on cape cod have the money to pay for extra goodies like spending thousands to repair the building first. Our friends in this part of town are simple folks barely scraping by. Yes the pan is a good thing to have, but here in FL, I have never seen a single contractor install one. Also again you are wrong about the top plate being level if the bottom is. Put enough bowed pressure on one of those side frame members and the frame goes out of square I see e it all the time.
I agree with JN CN, this was clearly a homeowner/DIY type of install and not professional, you've obviously been sitting in front of a camara on UA-cam to long and don't do it as a profession anymore. The screws also should of been hide behind the weather stripping for a cleaner install, the way you did it just looks messy having screw heads exposed and needing to be filled and painted to hide. I also agree the corner should have been fixed, even if the homeowner couldn't afford it, your clearly filming this for UA-cam to make money off of showing how to install a door, you could of offered to fix it at your cost in exchange for allowing you to film and profit from the video.
@@jasonbronson672 Most pre-hung doors are a DIY. A real wood craftsman would sling out his equipment and make his own door jambs after careful prep of the rough door opening and then begin to router the hinges and lockset locations. He'd also charge them much more money but it would be a solid install. Just my opinion, that door is in a terrible location.
For buying a door in the future, I suggest looking at Dako doors. They have sturdy products.
Will look into them thanks
Thank you you are a genius
You're welcome!
I wish you didn’t skip over how you sealed the lower tight gap on the striker side. Seeing as the nozzle wouldn’t fit
Did not apply any where the straw won't go in
Thank you I didn't think i'd ever find a video that showed real world situation. Extraction Good video
Glad you liked it!
Hinges on the outside? That's a new one for an exterior door. What stops someone wanting to break in from just popping out the hinge pins and pulling the door out of the frame?
On doors that have hinges on the outside they are security hinges that can't be popped And door removed
👍Great job Jeff.
Thanks!
Very helpful - best yet in doors - thank you
What about when one wall is 1.5 inches off at the sill from the other side ? You can't make it level plumb and square. You just can't. I've spent a 12 hr day fighting it. It takes installing many doors to realize you do the best you can to the eye , and make the door operable , where it will open up and close decently easy, and modify the lock catches to latch decent. I've installed hundreds and 1 out of 3 are like this especially in older homes. If the walls are mostly true, then yes you can go level
Have you thought about pouring down some self leveling compound to level the bottom of the floor first? I think that would be something I would look into I do this all the time in bathrooms before I tile I have to always get them level first
@@jeffostroff No, I don't mean the floor.... Of course, if it was out of level that's exactly what I would do. I mean if you were looking from the top of the wall down one wall is an inch and a half to 2 in away from the other wall if you were to chalk a line straight from wall to wall. So it ends up that your hinge side Is one or 2 in one way and the latch side is the opposite way cocking the door all crooked. I've done a lot of doors and it takes a true master to get a door like that to work. You will literally fight it for hours. I found the only way to make it work is do your best to line it up with the walls and the drywall etc. And then you just have to reroute and chisel hinges and catches
"Fantasy land" lol! I gave you a thumbs up for the honesty. Great tutorial.
Thanks Willie
this vid earns you a like and subscribe from me. thank you for sharing knowledge to the rest of us.
Awesome, thank you AL!
Looks like south Florida somewhere 😊
😎
I'm really enjoying your explanations through out the video!!
Glad you like them Patty!
If it doesn’t fit, get a bigger hammer
Super video, thank you Sir!
It looks like a strong hurricane can just blown that door out.
And take the house with it
Do i need to screw the top door jam as well? I have a steel lintel up there so what do i do in this situation?
Yes, drill pilot holes into the lintel and then drill bit sizes up until you can screw into the metal
did we subs buy u all them new tools com on jeff give bk on tool give away
Giving some next week, did you enter?
Bro even got the DeWalt underwear 😂
What part of Florida are you in?
If you don't have a crowbar and a putty knife you are no home owner.
You would not believe how many homeowners don't have either
Great video. Learned even more. Best so far. Would be helpful if you mention how much you save by doing it yourself or what new tools you might gain and what are the costs of some of these items. Might date the video some but we can see maybe if the entire project is worth doing it yourself. I am already looking at replacing the frame or parts of it because of water/insect damage. Need to know what to do to protect bottom wood frame or top because the builder didn't drop the outside of the door concrete pad so splash is happening. My outside garage door area really didn't last ten years. Coming on 18 years and I am just getting replacing it after a temporary fixes finally failed.
Great ideas thanks Bryan!
@@jeffostroff Doing mine now. Ran into some carpenter ants. Bottom damage to the frame and probaably took too long for a first timer. Now I have to go buy a door. Either ripping out the frame to cinder block or just reuse the top portion after cutting out the bottom. I had water damage on the bottom and the design has no step or gap to the front so water damage is going to keep happening unless I cover the whole outer concrete pad with the a/c unit. Have crowbar will travel.