I had the opportunity to meet Tom and had a drink with him. What you see here is exactly what he's like- cool, collected, humble and incredibly experienced. Wonderful guy.
I am installing a new exterior door. I watched many clips about installation of an exterior door. This Old House's clip is the most practical and most comprehensive one. Thank u.
It's really not that great, it doesn't thoroughly talk about making the door plumb, and level, and where the screws should go etc., How many screws to use
I love watching his videos. His workmanship always shows his skill level and confidence. Not many contractors with this level of quality left. Anyone who takes time to scribe bottom plate shims is ok in my books!
Just replaced the old door on my garage that was never meant to be an exterior door, was rotted out, and had cracks and leaks everywhere. Now it's actually insulated, and just in time for New England weather! Thanks!
Watched several door install vids to pick up on some pro tips. This was the best one out of the group. Checking clearance on the bottom of the door for a rug or floor mat is something I can see a bunch of ppl not considering.
What I like is the fact ,since it wasn't shown in the video .The latch set is mortised out. That's one of the tough parts of the door install. Not splitting the door when you chisel it out.
There's no need to put fasteners through the jamb where they're visible. The gasket that the door seals against can be removed and you could put a fastener right adjacent to this kerf cut. When you reinstall the gasket it will hide the screw.
Thank you thank you thank you!! Sage willing to share wisdom. THIS is why I love youtube. Installing my new fiber glass entry door. It too is not level and significantly shorter. It was like this video was made for my situation. You guys are GREAT!!!
I’m a young guy Never had a strong male role model but I’ve always done my best to fit everything myself so I can be a man’s man and when I have kids and I can pass this on to them Thank you for showing me how to do this I’ll be installing a door to my home today It has a hollow garbage plywood door and I live in a shady area
3:51 added shims under the scribed wood strips. Felt was necessary to mention because I had to do the same thing after my scribed pieces were still slightly off.
Two things to remember. He put longer screws in each hinge into the jamb side, I suggest doing that into the door as well. Those screws are only about 3/4 of an inch long and if you ever watch COPs or movie where they open the door with a shotgun they never mess with the hand set and deadbolt. Next. Never use foam that does not specifically indicate it is for doors and windows. Those others will expand and your doors and windows will be stuck shut. I'm no Tom Silva, but I design, build and install doors and windows.
Wouldn't you be more concerned with aligning the jamb with the interior of the house??? I work with a lot of older brick on block homes, and typically align doors with the interior side of the swing, that way I don't end up with a door that swings into inside jamb extensions, pulling the hinge screws loose. Am I missing something?, or do you have another way to resolve that issue?
Something strange about the sill removal: It had self-sealing membrane underneath when they removed it (and same brand as they apply later) but the membrane was not there when they scribed the 2x4. Maybe they forgot to film that bit and added it later just to show that it needs to be done?? Regardless, another good video from TOH.
If I understand OP comment correctly, Tom simply cut the waterproofing off. He had to because you wouldn’t build up the subfloor and then nail the filler strips through the membrane. He built it up, nailed the filler strips then went over that with the self sealing membrane. Had he not cut the old one out water could potentially be trapped between the two membranes of water happened to find its way in. So long story short (to late I know) he cut off the existing and replaced it.
I installed a lot of doors and they left a lot out. Like shims and fasteners at 3 to 4 locations each side. And what about the scrap wood nailed to the jamb on the front to align with the front - what prevents the door from swinging inward uncontrolled while you are working on the jamb level and alignment?
What is the drill bit that they use to open o hole in the frame? and what is the adapter that open extra after the bit to hide the screw head. ?????? @5:18 i saw the show in the TV, actually here they cut that part of the video when Kevin drill the extra.
For a below grade basement exterior door in a stair well with a drain in front of it. What's the best way to install to make it waterproof even if the drain gets plugged or briefly gets backed up from very heavy rainfall?
just a comment...i noticed a black plastic piece on the threshold bottom covering i suppose ..the adjustment screws...question..does this piece come off and stay off...?..thanks
Never hold any tool, especially an old and heavy corded sawzall, by the cord. Ruins the cord. Watch at the 1:30 mark when Tom takes the tool away from Kevin by the handle.
1. Gap and Crack Spray Foam is NOT for Doors or Windows. 2. Rough opening should be wrapped using house wrap 3. Sills should have metal drain pans 4. Shim and Fasten the Jam behind every hinge plus latch plate and more 5. Check Door Reveal around Jam This video should be a lot longer and provide way more details. I would hate for a DIYer to install a door based on this information
He probably used window/door foam. I've seen guys wrap door jambs, I've also pulled doors that never had the jambs wrapped and the framing is dry and straight and the door never leaked. The door should be in a metal pan. I'm sure he did shim and fasten behind every hinge and the latch, I'm not sure why they wouldn't make that clear or show it. You're right there's also no mention of checking the door reveal :O
what do you do about wood rot from siding underneath the door? our so called siding guys just put a wide trim board underneath my door now my door won’t shut properly
I think we need to rethink placing shims behind the hinges. It limits the ability to adjust the door later on. This is particularly true with newer synthetic jambs.
Just had a black bear go nuts and try to break in the front door in broad daylight, in town, old steel door held up enough to keep him out while he was scared off but it's split inside. Will have to do this soon...I just had painted the door last year too lol
This is a perfect scenario situation. Majority of the time, setting a door flush with the exterior plywood or the interior drywall will leave your door not shutting plum.
Your door should always close if it’s plum but yes you can’t always just flush it either side sometimes you kick in or out a either end if needed also even divide the difference but the door should remain plum
I'm installing on concrete...thinking use some epoxy and give it a day? Might using a treated 4x4 or 4x6 post cut on a table saw be better? I'm spitballing here!
Well i made a long wedge off a treated 4x4 post on my table saw. Figure the dimensions using a level. I had to make two and lay side by side as it was a very deep door. Had to redo it later as the first wedge was too thin and a bit short too - rain would get by it. The 2nd time i made it thicker and glued it down with this high dollar tube of construction adhesive that resists water. (don't use Liquid Nails!) Let it cure before proceeding. You can see it from the outside but doesn't bother me - there was no way to avoid it. It was a massive PITA but the door looks and works great now.
Need some guidance from skilled and learned viewers. We recently upgraded our flooring from vinyl to ceramic. The increase in floor thickness is causing problem with the weather strip or sweep installed at the bottom of the door. Whenever we open the door, the door drags our entry rug along. What can be done to raise the height of the door so it won't drag the rug?
After the exterior frame has been installed you measure the finish opening on the outside top middle and bottom of the sides in the inside of the outside frame and take your smallest Dimension and that would be your call number for a storm door to properly fit
I had a contractor install a Therma Tru Classic Craft door in an old Fram House. It is out of square. Any videos or tips on to removing and reinstalling the door properly?
Depending on how far out it is you may not have to remove it. Remove the casing on whichever side is easier and drive shims in at the neccessary corners. Diagonally measure the jamb. Keep on til the numbers are the same
that scribe leveling trick made no sense to me. If you are following the rough floor with the compass point, wouldn't the opposite pencil line be as jumpy as the rough threshold surface?
What kind of caulk?, eurethane, silicone.. sealant or adhesive? Or doesnt matter? What if just installing a threshold..no mechanical securement to subfloor?
I would have done it different. I'm going to do it different as soon as I go get my wood from HD this morning. I'm sure the way they did this is good for their situation. I just don't like a whole 3/4" of nothing but foam and a few screws between the door and the walls.
@The Lone Stranger What is that reason? I finished the door. I had about an 1/8th inch gap left to right, and about 1/4 in at the top after the prehung door was set in place. I filled the gaps top to bottom, as well as the top horizontal gap, with multiple sections of 12 in long 3/4 in deep, pressure treated wood shims held in place with DAP Dynaflex Ultra. I foamed it as well, behind the shims. If the entire prehung door and frame ever need to be replaced, all I have to do is back out the #10 3 inch SS wood screws, then cut the shims with a reciprocating saw.
@The Lone Stranger OK, yeah, and I shimmed my gaps. As for the "roof opening"...??? Do you mean the gap below the header? I don't think you're on the same page as me or the video. You sent me a link on how to frame an interior wall to allow for a doorway to install a bedroom or bathroom door, much different gaps for different reasons. We (the video and me) are dealing with prehung exterior doors, not bedroom doors. My exterior door is in the shade, and the house is in Florida, so there will be very little if any perceptible thermal expansion from radiant or convection heat, and little if any contraction due to very mild lows, even in January. There will be little if any expansion or contraction due to humidity since the door is fiberglass and the frame is composite. Neither are wood. Thanks anyway though.
I have a question. We are getting ready to install a fiberglass door that we bought from Lowes and it will be ready to pick up I about two weeks.... the thing is....it's getting cold here in East Tennessee. Will cold weather effect this installation in any way ? We are installing it in a mobile home. Getting rid of trailer doors and putting in house type doors.
Thanks for this. I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”. I realize this was designed for thick tile or wood floors, but the room has vinyl sheet floor. So the threshold is easy to trip over. I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
My front door is the type that has the full length side window with all on the same frame and unfortunately same threshold. How do we replace the door threshold only? Hope you make a video for us! Thanks.
Hey friend, I would get a new insulated prehung door..exterior doors are supposed to swing in anyway. Steel insulated comes ready to paint, good door without the price tag of a fiberglass one
there are, when you saw him shim up the one side, nails or screws go through the frame / shims / and into house. For the sake of time, they don't show you that they do this in several locations and the threshold / raiser / into the subfloor. they show it very quickly but if you're not looking for it, it can be easy to miss. Hope this helps and have a great day
I had the opportunity to meet Tom and had a drink with him. What you see here is exactly what he's like- cool, collected, humble and incredibly experienced. Wonderful guy.
Thank you for working on an opening that wasn't level
I've seen Tom do a lot of scribing, but video showed me EXACTLY what he was actually doing. Thank you Tom Silva...
I am installing a new exterior door. I watched many clips about installation of an exterior door. This Old House's clip is the most practical and most comprehensive one. Thank u.
It's really not that great, it doesn't thoroughly talk about making the door plumb, and level, and where the screws should go etc., How many screws to use
@@johnthree1611exactly what I was thinking, there much more comprehensive videos than this one.
I love watching his videos. His workmanship always shows his skill level and confidence. Not many contractors with this level of quality left. Anyone who takes time to scribe bottom plate shims is ok in my books!
You wouldn't ask this question if you had ever tried to install a door on top of an out of level subfloor
Exactly. The shims are definitely worth the time that it takes to cut them.
@@paulhiggs5172 yep
@FoxRcng708 yes he does. To do so saves him time and headache. Trying to set a door on an unlevel surface isn't fun
“One framing carpenter is worth 2 finish carpenters”
I should just start all my projects watching their videos first. It's so easy to grasp the concepts with how they teach, and not too long winded.
Kevin asks the best questions... he's a great teacher
Just replaced the old door on my garage that was never meant to be an exterior door, was rotted out, and had cracks and leaks everywhere. Now it's actually insulated, and just in time for New England weather! Thanks!
Tom is the salt of the earth, wish i had a small percentage of his skills.....and tools
Watched several door install vids to pick up on some pro tips. This was the best one out of the group. Checking clearance on the bottom of the door for a rug or floor mat is something I can see a bunch of ppl not considering.
.
What I like is the fact ,since it wasn't shown in the video .The latch set is mortised out. That's one of the tough parts of the door install. Not splitting the door when you chisel it out.
There's no need to put fasteners through the jamb where they're visible. The gasket that the door seals against can be removed and you could put a fastener right adjacent to this kerf cut. When you reinstall the gasket it will hide the screw.
Don't remove it! Just use a shim or something to hold the weather stripping back while you screw the fastener in.
@@pearljam_1yes! That's what I did today
Any time I see Kevin slap on that tool belt I know there is some major work about to be banged out.
Thank you thank you thank you!! Sage willing to share wisdom. THIS is why I love youtube. Installing my new fiber glass entry door. It too is not level and significantly shorter. It was like this video was made for my situation. You guys are GREAT!!!
0:14 Searched whole youtube fiberglass videos for this knock 😂 Thanks 👍🏽
A good face uplifting for great old house. The fiber doors are amazing turnaround in today's home refurbishment. Thanks
Those fiber and steel pre-hungs are pieces of crap!
I think it was the great carpenter Patrick Henry who said:
"Give me a wood door
Or give me death!"
I’m a young guy
Never had a strong male role model but I’ve always done my best to fit everything myself so I can be a man’s man and when I have kids and I can pass this on to them
Thank you for showing me how to do this
I’ll be installing a door to my home today
It has a hollow garbage plywood door and I live in a shady area
Used to watch this early morning Saturdays when I was little would've liked to binge watch like nowadays
Thank you my house is 121 years old and this helped a lot
3:51 added shims under the scribed wood strips. Felt was necessary to mention because I had to do the same thing after my scribed pieces were still slightly off.
Bob vila un gran maestro carpintero sabe muchisimo yo lo admiro mucho de hace muchos años
Make sure you use the window and door insulating foam and not the gap filler one. The latter can bust your door jamb.
Best video yet, going to attempt this on the weekend.
how did it go?
I wish they hadn't edited out how exactly he installed all of the flashing. Rushed right through that.
Two things to remember. He put longer screws in each hinge into the jamb side, I suggest doing that into the door as well. Those screws are only about 3/4 of an inch long and if you ever watch COPs or movie where they open the door with a shotgun they never mess with the hand set and deadbolt. Next. Never use foam that does not specifically indicate it is for doors and windows. Those others will expand and your doors and windows will be stuck shut. I'm no Tom Silva, but I design, build and install doors and windows.
They make it look so easy.
Everything's easy...once you know how.
Wait what about the strike plate? Should it be screwed through to the stud?
Some nice tips in this one.
Wish I could install it in 6 minutes too lol nice work and great tips. Hopefully my front door install goes smoothly as well.
Wouldn't you be more concerned with aligning the jamb with the interior of the house??? I work with a lot of older brick on block homes, and typically align doors with the interior side of the swing, that way I don't end up with a door that swings into inside jamb extensions, pulling the hinge screws loose. Am I missing something?, or do you have another way to resolve that issue?
Im doing one tommorow. First side job evah. Wish me luck!
What if your installer skips the door sill pan flashing and just silicones the bottom of the door to the wood
Couldn't be better! Sweet! Hope I remember all the key steps when to replace a front/backyard door!
That lawn suggests Roger has already been there.
Good 0:00/5:59
Something strange about the sill removal: It had self-sealing membrane underneath when they removed it (and same brand as they apply later) but the membrane was not there when they scribed the 2x4. Maybe they forgot to film that bit and added it later just to show that it needs to be done?? Regardless, another good video from TOH.
I caught that I'm guessing the old threshold was removed before filming and they hamed it up for the camera
If I understand OP comment correctly, Tom simply cut the waterproofing off. He had to because you wouldn’t build up the subfloor and then nail the filler strips through the membrane. He built it up, nailed the filler strips then went over that with the self sealing membrane. Had he not cut the old one out water could potentially be trapped between the two membranes of water happened to find its way in. So long story short (to late I know) he cut off the existing and replaced it.
I installed a lot of doors and they left a lot out. Like shims and fasteners at 3 to 4 locations each side. And what about the scrap wood nailed to the jamb on the front to align with the front - what prevents the door from swinging inward uncontrolled while you are working on the jamb level and alignment?
Agreed.
Hmm treated scribed 2x4 and I prefer real metal flashing behind that membrane. Otherwise, it looks good.
What is the drill bit that they use to open o hole in the frame? and what is the adapter that open extra after the bit to hide the screw head. ?????? @5:18
i saw the show in the TV, actually here they cut that part of the video when Kevin drill the extra.
For a below grade basement exterior door in a stair well with a drain in front of it. What's the best way to install to make it waterproof even if the drain gets plugged or briefly gets backed up from very heavy rainfall?
Straight to the point, enjoyed watching the video very much!!
So the door is fastened to the rough opening with only the screws in the hinge? What about the doorknob side?
Do you have a video on installing interior trim on this door installation?
Can you help find the proper type of paint for a fiberglass front door for Florida kind of weather. thank you
Two men , it’s easy, you should do a segment on a concrete block house
Tom levels his bed before he sleeps on it every night
just a comment...i noticed a black plastic piece on the threshold bottom covering i suppose ..the adjustment screws...question..does this piece come off and stay off...?..thanks
Thanks! Worked on my old home, great vid (:
I just love the old shiplap sheathing.
I'm sure it loves you too!
Would it not have been better to use pressure treated wood for the bottom pieces? Or treat the 2x4 strips used there?
Not necessary. Treated lumber is only needed when in direct contact with concrete, or exterior use.
Never hold any tool, especially an old and heavy corded sawzall, by the cord. Ruins the cord. Watch at the 1:30 mark when Tom takes the tool away from Kevin by the handle.
1. Gap and Crack Spray Foam is NOT for Doors or Windows.
2. Rough opening should be wrapped using house wrap
3. Sills should have metal drain pans
4. Shim and Fasten the Jam behind every hinge plus latch plate and more
5. Check Door Reveal around Jam
This video should be a lot longer and provide way more details. I would hate for a DIYer to install a door based on this information
He probably used window/door foam. I've seen guys wrap door jambs, I've also pulled doors that never had the jambs wrapped and the framing is dry and straight and the door never leaked. The door should be in a metal pan. I'm sure he did shim and fasten behind every hinge and the latch, I'm not sure why they wouldn't make that clear or show it. You're right there's also no mention of checking the door reveal :O
Very true - thanks Blake!
I have a 32" door want to put in a 36" how would I be able to do that
what do you do about wood rot from siding underneath the door? our so called siding guys just put a wide trim board underneath my door now my door won’t shut properly
I think we need to rethink placing shims behind the hinges. It limits the ability to adjust the door later on. This is particularly true with newer synthetic jambs.
Agreed
Just had a black bear go nuts and try to break in the front door in broad daylight, in town, old steel door held up enough to keep him out while he was scared off but it's split inside. Will have to do this soon...I just had painted the door last year too lol
This is a perfect scenario situation. Majority of the time, setting a door flush with the exterior plywood or the interior drywall will leave your door not shutting plum.
Your door should always close if it’s plum but yes you can’t always just flush it either side sometimes you kick in or out a either end if needed also even divide the difference but the door should remain plum
Anyone know where to get that self-adhesive membrane? The link is for a whole roll of stuff on Amazon, and it isn't even self-adhesive!
Thanks mate
No sill pan required? You plumbed square but what about vertical?
It's a courtesy to give a like when tommy say's Plum lol.
What about a sill pan? Is it required or recommended?
ive heard thatr you dont want to use just any spray foam , rather one that doesn;t expand to much or else it could mess your setup.
My only beef with his video is we didn't go over screw placement for the opposing side, as well as how to cover the screw holes left over
Is it possible to buy a small amount of self-sealing membrane, and not a 200-ft roll?
I'm installing on concrete...thinking use some epoxy and give it a day? Might using a treated 4x4 or 4x6 post cut on a table saw be better? I'm spitballing here!
But then how to disguise it. It's quite a slope - i guess they built this porch to shed water.
+John RossStar how did you end up going about it?
Well i made a long wedge off a treated 4x4 post on my table saw. Figure the dimensions using a level. I had to make two and lay side by side as it was a very deep door.
Had to redo it later as the first wedge was too thin and a bit short too - rain would get by it.
The 2nd time i made it thicker and glued it down with this high dollar tube of construction adhesive that resists water.
(don't use Liquid Nails!) Let it cure before proceeding.
You can see it from the outside but doesn't bother me - there was no way to avoid it.
It was a massive PITA but the door looks and works great now.
+John RossStar Im doing some research on online learning, do you mind having a quick chat with me about your project? join.skype.com/tZrImHfaQxE6
I don't have a cam hooked up. sorry bro
they levelled vertically but not inside out. do you need to?
Im sure he did and was just edited out for time.
Level is horizontal , plumb is vertical ?????
~ Old door looks just like the new door 👌😊´´
Need some guidance from skilled and learned viewers. We recently upgraded our flooring from vinyl to ceramic. The increase in floor thickness is causing problem with the weather strip or sweep installed at the bottom of the door. Whenever we open the door, the door drags our entry rug along. What can be done to raise the height of the door so it won't drag the rug?
How would you add a storm door to that kind of exterior door/frame?
You bolt it to the front
After the exterior frame has been installed you measure the finish opening on the outside top middle and bottom of the sides in the inside of the outside frame and take your smallest Dimension and that would be your call number for a storm door to properly fit
masterful
dang Kevin, lol... you must go through the power cords, huh?
Damien Nicholas Better than to go through your back.
Is it possible to install a mail slot in this door? (Fiberglass)
He kind of skipped the non-hinge side of the door.
I had a contractor install a Therma Tru Classic Craft door in an old Fram House. It is out of square. Any videos or tips on to removing and reinstalling the door properly?
Depending on how far out it is you may not have to remove it. Remove the casing on whichever side is easier and drive shims in at the neccessary corners. Diagonally measure the jamb. Keep on til the numbers are the same
Thank you Tommy
that scribe leveling trick made no sense to me. If you are following the rough floor with the compass point, wouldn't the opposite pencil line be as jumpy as the rough threshold surface?
You flip the piece he scribed and cut and face the scribed side downwards towards the subfloor with the straight level side upwards 👍
What kind of caulk?, eurethane, silicone.. sealant or adhesive? Or doesnt matter?
What if just installing a threshold..no mechanical securement to subfloor?
I would have done it different. I'm going to do it different as soon as I go get my wood from HD this morning. I'm sure the way they did this is good for their situation. I just don't like a whole 3/4" of nothing but foam and a few screws between the door and the walls.
@The Lone Stranger What is that reason? I finished the door. I had about an 1/8th inch gap left to right, and about 1/4 in at the top after the prehung door was set in place. I filled the gaps top to bottom, as well as the top horizontal gap, with multiple sections of 12 in long 3/4 in deep, pressure treated wood shims held in place with DAP Dynaflex Ultra. I foamed it as well, behind the shims. If the entire prehung door and frame ever need to be replaced, all I have to do is back out the #10 3 inch SS wood screws, then cut the shims with a reciprocating saw.
@The Lone Stranger OK, yeah, and I shimmed my gaps. As for the "roof opening"...??? Do you mean the gap below the header? I don't think you're on the same page as me or the video. You sent me a link on how to frame an interior wall to allow for a doorway to install a bedroom or bathroom door, much different gaps for different reasons. We (the video and me) are dealing with prehung exterior doors, not bedroom doors. My exterior door is in the shade, and the house is in Florida, so there will be very little if any perceptible thermal expansion from radiant or convection heat, and little if any contraction due to very mild lows, even in January. There will be little if any expansion or contraction due to humidity since the door is fiberglass and the frame is composite. Neither are wood. Thanks anyway though.
I have a question. We are getting ready to install a fiberglass door that we bought from Lowes and it will be ready to pick up I about two weeks.... the thing is....it's getting cold here in East Tennessee. Will cold weather effect this installation in any way ? We are installing it in a mobile home. Getting rid of trailer doors and putting in house type doors.
JJ Sam terp doir if sand ok. If not? Go re board twice...ya fucking dumbass😂
Thanks for this.
I had a new Masonite exterior fiberglass door installed for my laundry room. The problem is that the steel threshold sticks up 1 3/8”.
I realize this was designed for thick tile or wood floors, but the room has vinyl sheet floor. So the threshold is easy to trip over.
I have not been able to find a reducer that will remedy the situation. Any ideas on the best solution?
No sill pan?
God damit Kevin!!! Don’t press down. Get the hell outa here…. I’ll do it myself!
Does anyone else ever notice how their projects seem to almost install themselves?
Let me borrow that black door for my farmhouse lol
My front door is the type that has the full length side window with all on the same frame and unfortunately same threshold. How do we replace the door threshold only? Hope you make a video for us! Thanks.
you can't replace just the threshold
Were are u guys
Good
Where do you get fibreglass doors
Id hate for Harry Homeowner to follow this video and forget to attach the latch side of the door frame :-O
Does it hurt to put that membrane all the way around the rough opening? I don't care about the cost. Will it help?
i have a concrete home I want to change outswing door to inswing do I buy a new door or just reverse have
Hey friend, I would get a new insulated prehung door..exterior doors are supposed to swing in anyway. Steel insulated comes ready to paint, good door without the price tag of a fiberglass one
Good ol’ Mike Ditka
It seems there is actually only about 4 screws holding the door in (via the hinge)? Seems like there should be many screws.
there are, when you saw him shim up the one side, nails or screws go through the frame / shims / and into house. For the sake of time, they don't show you that they do this in several locations and the threshold / raiser / into the subfloor. they show it very quickly but if you're not looking for it, it can be easy to miss. Hope this helps and have a great day
What material (wood, steel, fiberglass) is most sound proof so that I hear the least amount of outdoor noise?
What about inside reveal against drywall?
Is there a reason they didn't remove the door before the frame?
Less work,labour and easy to install at somewhere if needed.
i just wanna ask you about the frame > can i make from fiberglass or not ?
Nasser Almohammedali Do you mean the door jambs?
Yes you can . You can order it in primed pine or composite
Will Fiberglass door be good for security door for business or would you recommend something else?
no for security you would want a wood door because electricity does not run through wood
Quality install but replacing a salvageable wood door with a cheap fibreglass one is just painful to watch.