Successfully installed the new door latch on my 2018 f-150 thanks to this video. Had trouble getting the window out, so I just unclipped it, and pushed it up all the way, taped it up, and was able to get everything out without removing completely. Thanks for the detailed video!
Great video and really helpful. I did not have to remove the window to replace the door lock actuator on my 2020 F350 driver side door. My window regulator attaches to the top hole as shown at 0:52. Once the nut is removed along with the lower nut that holds the window regulator arm/bracket (at 1:45) you can move the arm forward, out of the way to remove the entire door lock actuator assembly. The entire door lock assembly & housing needs to come out as one unit as described in the video. Moving the arm forward provides only a little bit of room and is a huge PITA to get the entire door lock assembly out. Reinstalling the new door lock actuator assembly back into the door is also fairly difficult. One other problem I had was removing the outside door handle cable that is attached with a plastic clip (at 4:20). The window needs to be down all the way to locate the plastic clip and using a flat blade screwdriver you can gently pry the back of the plastic clip to pop out the pushpin which will release to cable from the door. This entire process is much easier if the window is removed.
Thank you for your thoughtful and well laid out comments. In many cases not pulling the window may be the best option. For myself, on this vehicle, my decision was to fully remove the glass. This gave me more room to work with less chances of breaking anything or injuring myself. Large hands and thin skin are not the best combination for working inside doors.
Just did this job on a 2021 without removing the window, but it was not fun taping those t25's to the socket and fishing them through the door holes while holding the 3 parts together. Your video was very helpful, thank you for posting it. I'm never going to personally own anything newer than a 2003 after that fiasco :)
Glad to hear you got it done and believe me, I feel your pain. It seems to me that the powers that be are either trying to keep us deeply indebted to our machines or pedestrians.
just replaced the latch assembly on my f250 2017. What an ordeal it was. I didn't have to remove the window, just lower it down to remove that cable attachment clip as well as to remove the window guide rail through the inside after removing the nuts attaching the window cable slide post thingy so I could push it back a little bit. I did find that the slide rail would just wiggle down into the bottom of the door but it was nice being able to mock up the parts outside the door to get familiar with assembly once they were put back in the door. It was the front passenger side latch that wouldn't hold the door shut at all. f250 xl. Dorman replacement part seems better quality than factory when opening and closing, very sturdy. Never had a latch break like that on any vehicle I've ever owned since 1998.
I just got my 2017 F150 Lariat back from the dealer. This was their second and this time successful attempt at repairing the passenger side rear door latch. The door would not open, or if open would not latch closed. At first they blamed the child lock mechanism. Said it was mid way and interfering with the latch. That fix lasted until I got the truck home and it would no longer unlatch. Back it went. They had my truck one day short of a month this time. After replacing much of the door lock mechanism it appears to be fixed. My fingers are crossed. At least my extended warranty covered the entire cost. Parts and labor. My understanding is three people left the employment of this large dealership that had been working on my vehicle. I only hope the remaining doors continue working.
@@mobydog04 Don't know exactly what they did but in general try rolling the window down. Then use one hand on the manual lock and the other on the door handle. Work back and forth. Many times the door will open. The next step would be to sit on the seat. Work the buttons and handle back and forth while bumping the door with your shoulder. Last resort is to pull the panel with the door closed then access the mechanisms to open the door. This last step will generally damage the door panel to some degree.
I'll try what you advise. My door panel is already off. Was tough getting it apart with the door being closed though. I had been trying to figure out just how to unlatch it while having to view the actuator with a flash light. I have noticed that when hitting the lock unlock switch on the driver's door that the locking rod does not move up and down as far as the other door locks. I'll let you know l;ater today what works and what does not. One thing is I certainly don't want to damage the door panel. If I don't succeed I'll have to take it into my mechanics shop and see what they say.@@SparkysAnswers
Procedure #1 - IT WORKED! Appears that the latch just needed a wee bit of WD40. So far so good. Now to put the interior door panel back together. Thanks.@@SparkysAnswers
Most of the work will be for nothing seeing that you did not re-silicone. The doorhandle condensation and rainwater will build up in the door, causing it to freeze up in the winter. To anyone else doing this job make sure you clean the old silicone off of the doorhandle assembly. Wipe it down with alcohol and re-silicone it with 100% silicone before reinstalling.
Respectfully, I would have to disagree for several reasons. First of all the "silicone" that can be seen on the inner lip of the door handle was in good shape. It was applied at the factory under controlled conditions and allowed to fully dry. This can be evidenced by it being in perfect condition and none of it being stuck on the mating surface of the door. Since door interiors are generally designed to be free flowing for water intrusion the "silicone" was likely intended for noise and dust suppression. If water was to ever be able to buildup inside the door you better be looking at why it is not leaving the door instead of why it is entering. All doors have drain holes and it is important for them to remain clear. There is not a door interior out there that is designed to be fully water tight. Designed to restrict and control the flow direction, of course. Lastly, I am assuming you are suggesting using the silicone by installing it on the inside edge of the door handle and then installing the handle while it is still wet/tacky so that it will get a good seal. If so, that would be a huge mistake. Because of the movements needed to install and remove the door handle, if you were to allow "silicone" to cure after installation, you might not ever be able to remove the handle again. At the very least it would be more difficult and it or the door surfaces might be damaged by the attempt.
Took me a little while to go through my paper work but the part used in the video was JL3Z1521813D. I would recommend using your VIN to locate the correct part for your truck.
Sorry, I did not get that on video and the reason why I referred to the video as a review of the process and not the whole repair. That aside the cables and rods come out as part of the old latch assembly. Once it is out, it is just a matter of removing each cable/rod one at a time and transferring to the new latch. It may seem worrisome not "knowing exactly how to do it but once you have gone through the process of getting the latch out, exchanging the cable/rods is pretty simple. There is a little bit of cable removal footage from the outside door handle around the 5 to 6 minute marks. One important thing to remember is to pay close attention to the rod and cable positions as you are removing the latch assembly. You need to duplicate those positions as you are putting the new assembly back into the door. .
Also the opening in the sheet metal is much smaller on my 1999. I bruised up my arm shoving my arm up in there. I did the left side but i will hire someone to do the left side.
I was trying to replace the door ajar switch on my 2017. Without pulling the whole latch assembly, it looked like the switch is integrated into the assembly now and can't be replaced on its own. Can you confirm since you've pulled the whole assembly if its a twist lock switch that is serviceable or if the entire assembly has to be replaced if the door ajar switch goes bad?
@@mikeForsythe-tl7qs I was hoping it was smaller door with inside handle. Many times the ends of the cables will break and you can usually pull the panel part way and grab the cable to open the door. Since it is the full sized door try rolling the window down. Then use one hand on the manual lock and the other on the door handle. Work back and forth. Many times the door will open. The next step would be to sit on the seat. Work the buttons and handle back and forth while bumping the door with your shoulder. Last resort is to pull the panel with the door closed then access the mechanisms to open the door. This last step will generally damage the door panel to some degree.
Rear door with crew cab truck are are the same basic procedure but rear doors are generally easier because they don't have as many features. No lock cylinder or key pad for example. Ford service states that the glass has to be removed from the regulator and taped up in the door to position it out of the way. Super cab trucks are different in that they have upper and lower latches instead of just one centrally located latch. Hope this helps.
According to my paper work the part number of the latch that was used in the video was JL3Z1521813D. I would recommend using your VIN to locate the correct part for your truck.
Okay, Care to elaborate so we know what you are talking about? Which lower bolt? What comes out? The window may not need to come out but In my case, I felt it was best for multiple reasons, as I explained in the video.
Successfully installed the new door latch on my 2018 f-150 thanks to this video. Had trouble getting the window out, so I just unclipped it, and pushed it up all the way, taped it up, and was able to get everything out without removing completely. Thanks for the detailed video!
Glad to hear my video was helpful and thank you for your added comment about your experience.
Great video and really helpful. I did not have to remove the window to replace the door lock actuator on my 2020 F350 driver side door. My window regulator attaches to the top hole as shown at 0:52. Once the nut is removed along with the lower nut that holds the window regulator arm/bracket (at 1:45) you can move the arm forward, out of the way to remove the entire door lock actuator assembly. The entire door lock assembly & housing needs to come out as one unit as described in the video. Moving the arm forward provides only a little bit of room and is a huge PITA to get the entire door lock assembly out. Reinstalling the new door lock actuator assembly back into the door is also fairly difficult. One other problem I had was removing the outside door handle cable that is attached with a plastic clip (at 4:20). The window needs to be down all the way to locate the plastic clip and using a flat blade screwdriver you can gently pry the back of the plastic clip to pop out the pushpin which will release to cable from the door. This entire process is much easier if the window is removed.
Thank you for your thoughtful and well laid out comments. In many cases not pulling the window may be the best option. For myself, on this vehicle, my decision was to fully remove the glass. This gave me more room to work with less chances of breaking anything or injuring myself. Large hands and thin skin are not the best combination for working inside doors.
Just did this job on a 2021 without removing the window, but it was not fun taping those t25's to the socket and fishing them through the door holes while holding the 3 parts together. Your video was very helpful, thank you for posting it. I'm never going to personally own anything newer than a 2003 after that fiasco :)
Glad to hear you got it done and believe me, I feel your pain. It seems to me that the powers that be are either trying to keep us deeply indebted to our machines or pedestrians.
just replaced the latch assembly on my f250 2017. What an ordeal it was. I didn't have to remove the window, just lower it down to remove that cable attachment clip as well as to remove the window guide rail through the inside after removing the nuts attaching the window cable slide post thingy so I could push it back a little bit. I did find that the slide rail would just wiggle down into the bottom of the door but it was nice being able to mock up the parts outside the door to get familiar with assembly once they were put back in the door. It was the front passenger side latch that wouldn't hold the door shut at all. f250 xl. Dorman replacement part seems better quality than factory when opening and closing, very sturdy. Never had a latch break like that on any vehicle I've ever owned since 1998.
I have only seen a couple of latches fail like that and I have been working on cars for for a long time. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for sharing. Running into the same problems.
Glad to be able to and thanks for commenting.
Is there an actuator relearn sequence for after you have installed the new actuator? TIA
No, it is plug and play. Thanks for asking.
Thank you!@@SparkysAnswers
I wish you had made a video of the process, There really are not any great ones out there. But I have to give it a try.
You and me both.
I was able to get the solenoid replaced under Ford extended warranty Customer Satisfaction Program 20M04
I just got my 2017 F150 Lariat back from the dealer. This was their second and this time successful attempt at repairing the passenger side rear door latch. The door would not open, or if open would not latch closed. At first they blamed the child lock mechanism. Said it was mid way and interfering with the latch. That fix lasted until I got the truck home and it would no longer unlatch. Back it went. They had my truck one day short of a month this time. After replacing much of the door lock mechanism it appears to be fixed. My fingers are crossed. At least my extended warranty covered the entire cost. Parts and labor. My understanding is three people left the employment of this large dealership that had been working on my vehicle. I only hope the remaining doors continue working.
I hope your problem is fixed too. General state of affairs in this country right now. Supply chains messed up and a shortage or qualified labor.
I have the same problem. My rear passenger door is closed and I can't get it open to replace tha actuator. Do you know how they got the door open?
@@mobydog04 Don't know exactly what they did but in general try rolling the window down. Then use one hand on the manual lock and the other on the door handle. Work back and forth. Many times the door will open. The next step would be to sit on the seat. Work the buttons and handle back and forth while bumping the door with your shoulder. Last resort is to pull the panel with the door closed then access the mechanisms to open the door. This last step will generally damage the door panel to some degree.
I'll try what you advise. My door panel is already off. Was tough getting it apart with the door being closed though. I had been trying to figure out just how to unlatch it while having to view the actuator with a flash light. I have noticed that when hitting the lock unlock switch on the driver's door that the locking rod does not move up and down as far as the other door locks. I'll let you know l;ater today what works and what does not. One thing is I certainly don't want to damage the door panel. If I don't succeed I'll have to take it into my mechanics shop and see what they say.@@SparkysAnswers
Procedure #1 - IT WORKED! Appears that the latch just needed a wee bit of WD40. So far so good. Now to put the interior door panel back together. Thanks.@@SparkysAnswers
Most of the work will be for nothing seeing that you did not re-silicone. The doorhandle condensation and rainwater will build up in the door, causing it to freeze up in the winter.
To anyone else doing this job make sure you clean the old silicone off of the doorhandle assembly. Wipe it down with alcohol and re-silicone it with 100% silicone before reinstalling.
Respectfully, I would have to disagree for several reasons. First of all the "silicone" that can be seen on the inner lip of the door handle was in good shape. It was applied at the factory under controlled conditions and allowed to fully dry. This can be evidenced by it being in perfect condition and none of it being stuck on the mating surface of the door. Since door interiors are generally designed to be free flowing for water intrusion the "silicone" was likely intended for noise and dust suppression. If water was to ever be able to buildup inside the door you better be looking at why it is not leaving the door instead of why it is entering. All doors have drain holes and it is important for them to remain clear. There is not a door interior out there that is designed to be fully water tight. Designed to restrict and control the flow direction, of course.
Lastly, I am assuming you are suggesting using the silicone by installing it on the inside edge of the door handle and then installing the handle while it is still wet/tacky so that it will get a good seal. If so, that would be a huge mistake. Because of the movements needed to install and remove the door handle, if you were to allow "silicone" to cure after installation, you might not ever be able to remove the handle again. At the very least it would be more difficult and it or the door surfaces might be damaged by the attempt.
Happen to have the part number for the actuator?
Had the same problem its like there are multiple actuators
Took me a little while to go through my paper work but the part used in the video was JL3Z1521813D. I would recommend using your VIN to locate the correct part for your truck.
thank for responding back @@SparkysAnswers
How do you get the cables off the latch I don’t see anything for how to remove the cables from the latch assembly. For the new latch assembly.
Sorry, I did not get that on video and the reason why I referred to the video as a review of the process and not the whole repair. That aside the cables and rods come out as part of the old latch assembly. Once it is out, it is just a matter of removing each cable/rod one at a time and transferring to the new latch. It may seem worrisome not "knowing exactly how to do it but once you have gone through the process of getting the latch out, exchanging the cable/rods is pretty simple. There is a little bit of cable removal footage from the outside door handle around the 5 to 6 minute marks.
One important thing to remember is to pay close attention to the rod and cable positions as you are removing the latch assembly. You need to duplicate those positions as you are putting the new assembly back into the door.
.
Also the opening in the sheet metal is much smaller on my 1999. I bruised up my arm shoving my arm up in there. I did the left side but i will hire someone to do the left side.
Thanks for sharing.
I was trying to replace the door ajar switch on my 2017. Without pulling the whole latch assembly, it looked like the switch is integrated into the assembly now and can't be replaced on its own. Can you confirm since you've pulled the whole assembly if its a twist lock switch that is serviceable or if the entire assembly has to be replaced if the door ajar switch goes bad?
I am familiar with the twist lock, button type switch you are talking about. I do not remember seeing one of those as part of this assembly.
I have an 2017 and rear door is stuck closed , door unlock actuator moves but maybe jamming ??? I dunno
Is it a full sized rear door with an exterior handle or smaller door with an interior handle?
@@SparkysAnswers full size door
@@mikeForsythe-tl7qs I was hoping it was smaller door with inside handle. Many times the ends of the cables will break and you can usually pull the panel part way and grab the cable to open the door.
Since it is the full sized door try rolling the window down. Then use one hand on the manual lock and the other on the door handle. Work back and forth. Many times the door will open. The next step would be to sit on the seat. Work the buttons and handle back and forth while bumping the door with your shoulder. Last resort is to pull the panel with the door closed then access the mechanisms to open the door. This last step will generally damage the door panel to some degree.
Is it the same procedure for the rear door sparky
Rear door with crew cab truck are are the same basic procedure but rear doors are generally easier because they don't have as many features. No lock cylinder or key pad for example. Ford service states that the glass has to be removed from the regulator and taped up in the door to position it out of the way. Super cab trucks are different in that they have upper and lower latches instead of just one centrally located latch. Hope this helps.
@@SparkysAnswersok thanks
Great video. Very informative.
Thanks
What the part number for the actuator
According to my paper work the part number of the latch that was used in the video was JL3Z1521813D. I would recommend using your VIN to locate the correct part for your truck.
same part number for the 2020.
Sound like a country singer
Bro. Are you serious. No cable placement no transfer of parts? Also on the 17s the window does not need removed. Surprised people could even navigate
It doesn’t but it sure is a lot more challenging to do it that way.
False. Remove the lower bolt. It comes out. Window absolutely does not have to come out.
Okay, Care to elaborate so we know what you are talking about? Which lower bolt? What comes out? The window may not need to come out but In my case, I felt it was best for multiple reasons, as I explained in the video.