Etching or Engraving Glass with the XTool 10 watt laser , The Settings
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- Опубліковано 28 кві 2022
- Etching or engraving glass with the 10 watt Xtool laser is really very easy with the right settings in Laser Box Basic software that comes with the Laser. Join me as I show how I made some beer glasses and some coasters
First the setting for each.
Glass
Material Setting is Stainless Steel
Power is 100%
Feed rate is 12 millimeters per second
Cork Coasters
Material is Basswood
Power is 24%
Feed rate is 112 millimeters per second.
Product links:
My Xtool Affilate link that gives the channel (me) a small commission if you buy a laser.
www.xtool.com/?ref=pefWltGqiJ...
The X Tool Additional Rotary Tool the RA2 Pro
www.xtool.com/products/xtool-...
The Corks from Amazon.. not a sponsored link
www.amazon.com/WIDROO-Pack-Co...
The Stepcraft CNC new D Series.
www.stepcraft.us/dseries
George Kenner is CALIFORNIA Real Estate Broker and as is customary in California Brokers must display their Department of Real Estate Licence Number. George's number is 01229951.
Along with being a Broker George has also been recipient of Realtor of the Year honors and California Association of Realtors, Champion of Home Award. You can see a short video that details why George was given these honors at .
• George Kenner, Recipie...
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That looks amazing! Thanks, I just ordered a D1 and can't wait to dig into it.
I am loving mine.... it is a lot of fun. Make sure to get a few "lens" covers as using it full power engraving glass will cloud the lens cover cutting power.
Nicely done. Thanks for the video.
Thank you very much... more Laser stuff on its way next week
You are a JEWEL THANKS!
thank you for the nice comment more Lazer info is on its way.
Nice video - thanks for posting !
Thank you for the very nice comment... CHEERS... let me know if I can help you.
@@GeorgeKennerLaser Any tips for CUTTING 2mm or 3mm Acrylic ? I have an xTool D1 10 watt laser engraver/cutter…
@@GeorgeKennerLaser any tips on CUTTING 2mm or 3mm CLEAR ACRYLIC ???
@@jacknick429 I have not cut any Acrylic, sorry. I would be most interest in cutting clear and it will not work on a diode laser it is my understanding.
I like the fact you don't sponsor.👍🏻
I look at most peoples channels and see if they are working for a specific product before I believe anything they say. No one can control what I say. I look to invent new opportunities and inspire others to get involved and off the couch. Thank you for the nice comment... CHEERS BRO!
I use the cermark. It's pricey but the finish is really good and consistent.
I have another video for glass etching planned. I have not tried Cermark ... THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENT, there are a lot of people that benefit from what others are doing. CHEERS.
thanks mate
You're welcome! It makes me smile every time someone says thank you... Cheers
If you will dilute the tempera paint with water and then dip the side of the glass to be etched. You will get a smooth, even coat. Also, cleanup with water is easier than the glazing compound
dipping did not work well for me, it would not stick to the clean glass. At least as I was doing it.
Thanks for the tip.
@@GeorgeKennerLaser Clean the glass with Isopropyl Alcohol first
Have you ever tried spray paint caulk, I know you like your tempera so well was just curious I have just received my d1 and love you channel. It so so informative and I thank you for the time you put in the videos thank you again sir
No I did not know there ever was such a thing as Spray paint Chalk... I have to look that up. Interesting. Thank you for the TIP.
If you make the outside diameter of the wood the same diameter as the opening on the glass, it will NOT BUCKLE in the roller. then tip the roller with support underneath to level the top of the glass to focus the laser.
You are of course correct... but I got the RA2 by Xtool that allows to you level and do so much more. Thank you for the comment as other people watching this should know this as an option... CHEERS..
Hi Quick tip for the glass. Use a brass wire wheel in a drill, this gets it of clean and does not scratch the glass.
Thank you for sharing... this is very helpful for people that watch.
I was thinking a brass tooth brush. I remember them being OD green.😁
@@jakerazmataz852 I have tried this before but the wheel works cleaner and the finish is slightly better
what was the settings that gave you the black finish on the glass?
that does make you glass more likely to shatter and more susceptible to heat/cold shock.
Well with a laser I believe it would be heat shock, as the laser is heating the glass to a point that it will "micro fracture" the surface from the heat of the laser. But if you freeze an engraved glass and then hit it I bet it would break at one of the weakened points of the engraving. So In a way I guess it would be equal. Thank you for the question... I have a good video on beer bottle engraving coming up, you will love it.
Fantastic video 👏
How do you remove the galvanised paint?
For the cold Galvanized I use a paint remover. The process is sorta messy and I were latex gloves and paper towels when doing it. I am doing another video right now and I am using Tempara Paint sprayed out of a Preval , I am going that direction as I do not like the smell or chemicals in the Zinc Paint.. The Tempara just washes off with water. Some people have also noted that different brands of Cold Galvanized work with different results on different types of glass. Oh the science of this.
love the etching. I have the d1pro. what settings for etching
That glass was done with the Xtool program at the time. I used 90 power and 15 as a speed, there was a setting for Stainless Steel. It was a deep engrave because of the paint that I used. Thanks for the comment.
Great information! Have you ever had the issue of the etching getting lighter with each item being etched?
YES, see my video on the LENS cover. As you do this it can cloud the lens cover and weaken the laser beam. Change the lens cover and your most likely going to see the laser work like new.
For your jig, how do you make sure the laser is starting from the same point each time? I find when it goes home and then you hit start again, it's off a smidgen when it returns to do the second item, off center a bit. Maybe that's not normal haha.
It of course depends on your laser and the program but what I do is frame the first item in the jig and make sure it is on... and that has worked. If its out of wack I adjust the laser head.
George , if i need to engrave a larger object say a wood wine box, can i elevate the laser to be able to do that? say lift the 4 corners equally? i really need to be able to put stuff on larger square wood boxes, Cigars, wine etc...is this doable?
Sure CAN.. in fact Xtool provides some screw on extenders to raise it. You just need to consider vibration, you would not want it to shake off the "system / blocks" you use to elevate the machine. Thank you for your service Sgt. Dave. If you need help please e mail me at g.kenner@yahoo.com
I recently purchased the xtool d1 pro. Last night I tried scoring some random shapes on bass wood. The lines in the shapes always came out irregular. Could this be happening bc of the belts being to taut or loose?
That is I guess possible. They should be tight enough that when you put the laser at about a 45 decree angle the laser will start to go slowly from the top to the bottom.
What were your settings for the cork coaster for the 10w D1?
Joe thanks for the question... Pretty sure we got this all covered in e mails... Cheers!
Hi, if my engraving is 95% perfect but has a few spots where the engraved surface chips off, what is the most likely problem? Too slow or too fast engraving speed (was using 9mm/second), , too much engraving power (using 10W 100%), distance from laser to glass, glass quality, etc.? Thanks
Could even be the glass... or variation in the thickness of the paint.
I etch glass with chalk paint 100% power 15mm/s speed on my xtool D1 10w
Cool thank you for sharing your settings.
What was the best paint you found to use
The one I liked the best was the cold galvanizing compound. The down side is that it requires paint thinner or paint stripper to get it off and that is sorta stinky. The tempera paint will wash off with water. Thank you for the comment
How do you set the diameter so the image come out as intended and not stretched or compressed.
Which program are you using.. are you using Xtool or Lightburn? Come into Laser Freedom on facebook if you want a faster answer.
@@GeorgeKennerLaser not on FB any longer. I am using the latest XCS. Thanks for actually replying btw
George. Why wouldn"t you just stuff a dark rag in side the vessel and tape the top?🙂
I guess you could try that... but when I painted the inside of the glass the INSIDE of the glass was the effected surface. Give your idea and try and see what happens. Right now I am working on my new Aeon Mira 7 C02 laser. I have to do a shop rearrange over the holidays to get the Xtool back up and running. Cheers and happy Holidays.
You didn't actually say what you did with the glass and wood circle.
i think I showed it in the roller... if you need a better series of pictures let me know. Get the RA2 Rotary and you will not have to cut anything with the cnc. Cheers brother.
George, for us users of other software the speed of 30% is meaningless if we dont know the max speed of your machine.
We use Millimeters per second or Inches per second ... or whatever the period of time is.
Are you producing these videos just for users of your machine and software?
William let me give the BIG VIEW of why I even make UA-cams. I want to encourage people to get off the COUCH and try something. To many people have hidden talents that do not even know they have. When I did this video I did it with the Xtool program, I did not use LIGHTBURN a far superior program. Now I also have an Aeon Mira Pro CO2 Laser and what took an hour now takes me a few minutes per item. I keep growing in the hobby. Thank you very much for the comment and I hope this answers your question.