This is the biggest thing that I enjoy from the RC hobby. The attention to detail with these upgrades, and seeing how it improves the performance of the truck. The engineering that goes into these is awesome!! I loved building my TRX4 Sport, but it's the slow process of gradually making it better (on a budget, in my case!!). The SCX6 looks like a monster, and not having the front end flexing like a flexy thing must make a heap of difference!! It looks awesome, too. Way out of my budget. Keep on doing what you've been doing. I love the style and content of your videos, as it's the complete antithesis of KT (I love what he does, too, and I agree that he hides a massive amount of knowledge and experience behind the loud and brash persona!!). Take care. 👍🏻
I enjoyed the video and the parts upgrades look great. They seem to improve the crawler. I know almost nothing about crawlers. Is there ever a time you can add too much weight? The upgrades seem to reduce the flexing of certain chassis parts. In crawling do you want to reduce flexing in all cases? Thanks for sharing.
All weight you add needs to be pulled up over obstacles, fighting gravity. But you need some weight for traction - too light and tires can struggle to grip. Chassis flex is fine, to some extent. We're not high speed road racing here. But flex in the steering or suspension links can mean loss of steering throw or impeded suspension cycling. Everything is a compromise, but the Scx6 really suffered from poor steering due partly to flex on the panhard mounts at each end. These upgrades fix that, which is great!
Now you need to upgrade those crappy electronics. Mamba Monster X 8s Esc and a 3 Brothers RC Black Jacket REALLY wake this thing up. The stock ESC is so weak the difference it makes replacing it with an ESC that can actually supply the stock steering servo with 8v continuously makes it not terrible.
Thanks, I bet that makes a difference. In our last video we stuck in a castle bec so the servo is now getting the power it really needs. Much better already. I may upgrade the entire system at some point in future but for now I'm pretty happy with it. Yes, some of my 1/10 crawlers have stronger systems and servos than the Scx6 OEM gear, but I don't like to waste things and I get a lot of enjoyment from the stock system. I'll replace stuff as it breaks :)
@@RCTNT Must have missed that previous video, need to hit that bell ;) The whole reason I ended up replacing my stock system was the ESC took a dump 4 miles into a trail. Thought the switch went bad so I pulled the wires out in an attempt to hot wire it but it was sadly completely shot. Had to carry that very heavy truck out of the trail.
I’ve got the mamba monster X and 860kv black jacket motor and while it’s got awesome power and control…the motor is very noisey… Terrible whine that’s very annoying especially at slow speeds. I eventually replaced it with a castle 1717-1650kv motor and geared it down to 11t pinion….very happy with it now.
@markcole6475 glad you're happy. That's one thing I wish castle would address in their ESCs. PWM rate is too low, which helps maximum performance (less heat) but annoyingly loud whine. Even just the option in software would be appreciated!
If I only want to remove the flex from the steering, am I right to think that I just need the front C-hub carriers and front shock towers. I'm waiting for my SCX6 to arrive so I don't have it in front of me to look at yet.
Almost. The steering servo moves around in its plastic mount, too. I have some fiber jammed between it and the mudguard, but I've told Venka Racing about it and I understand they're working on a metal bracket for both servos, among other things. You're gonna love this rig :)
You bet. Though my Arrmas have alu mounts already... But I have a famously bad memory, maybe I already replaced it. Anyway, you have the right idea! Enjoy it, they're great models!
Never used a bleeder valve on my shocks before. So I’m thinking fill the shock with oil, put the cap back on, undo the valve screw and compress the shock a few times to get the air out, compress the shock up and tighten the valve screw. Sound about right?
Almost. Remove the bleeder screw, remove the shock cap, fill the shock to near the top but not full, slowly compress the shock, cycle slowly a few times until bubbles are gone. Compress the shock fully and hold, then replace the shock cap. With shock still compressed fully, replace the bleeder screw. Clean up the mess. Done!
@@RCTNT awesome mate thank you 👍 I know it sounds simple but I haven’t had to do it that way before on my 1/10 trucks. The Honcho I’m learning is a bit different. Keep up the great work 👍
It's really ashame how noodley the stock parts are. For $1100 plus tax id expect it to perform better. I'm on the fence about getting this versus a regular scx10. Yet I can't justify dropping another $700 in parts and servo to get it adequate
You'll need less than that to get it sorted. I used the stock servo all this time until recently. The metal panhard mount is a great start, plus a bec for servo. That's really it for getting things to a decent level. I agree it's a shame you need to do that in the first place!
Whoa! Look at that, maybe not.. I haven't heard anything but yeah, definitely offline now. Well that's a bummer, this was good gear too! If anything changes I'll let you know, but I guess these guys may be out. Thanks for letting me know.
You're an Aussie? I'd like to get a Honcho but pricing is a bit extreme, have you had an issues with your truck? I like the larger size as is easier to work on, more room, just a better experience.
Yep, Australian. Truck is great. Issues have been covered in my videos. Main issue is steering, which can be sorted in the "get it right!" video from a while back plus the CNC gear in this video. Most recently, the original servo has finally started to fail so I'm going to have to replace it with something a bit better. Otherwise, it's a brilliant machine.
@@RCTNT I used to get a lot of my running gear from Hobbyking, I sold all my gear then bought a few crawlers, less stress less breakages. I checked out your Ovonic vid, I would only need a 2S 50C max right? As for the steering servo, what would you recommend and from where? It gives me an indication of how much I need to sink into this before I realize it's a money pit. I am actually thinking of 1 to walk the dog with lol.
I used to use hobbyking all the time too. Haven't done so for 5 or 6 years now but for the preceding decade, all the time. Correct on battery requirements. Servo-stock one is fine. I killed mine with hard crawling. Power HD has a cheap 60kg one for $80 or so. There's a 40kg savox for about $145 and a 130kg brushless jx servo for about $300. I'm probably going with the power HD one and we'll see how that goes first. Great rigs, all round.
@@RCTNT Power HD sounds familiar, I just checked my modded Trax crawler and I have 1 installed, came in a cool metal case. LW25MG, since the trax are flat on surface, it can be hard to turn but this servo does the job easily. Great servo for the $
I'm a big fan of jx servo. Have used them a bunch. I only have 3 or 4 power HD servos, which is not many when you consider the size of my RC 'fleet', but they've been fine so far!
Wasn’t expecting a video today but it’s like you read my mind because I’m so close to pulling the trigger and buying an SCX6 this weekend. Every video you release you seem like you’re sliding right into your own comfort zone and style. Another commenter on your last video, I think it was, said something about not being too much like Kevin Talbot and I agree. Never go full Kevin Talbot - bit of a Tropic Thunder reference there 😆. Cheers Craig!
Bwahahaha there is only one Kev Talbot and that's the way it'll stay! I'm going to experiment with different styles a bit more but have no plans to change my core video approach, don't worry :) I got the reference, though after watching KT in depth this past fortnight, I must say he hides a deep level of competence and knowledge behind the rough and tumble exterior. There's a lot to learn in his videos - it isn't all wanton destruction! I'm going to check out a few different channels. I should have watched them earlier but instead just did my own thing. I need a little guidance on style, pacing, variety, presentation, sound, editing, etc. Never made videos before and I shouldn't have just made it up as I went. Not changing core values but definitely seeking style and pacing influence. You're going to love the Scx6. It has issues steering right but my videos cover how to address that. Otherwise, epic crawler. Enjoy!
@@RCTNT Don’t knock yourself for making videos on your own without influence because you’ve done pretty damn well I’d say. You’ve drawn in myself and several thousand other subscribers and that’s not bad at all! There is good information to be had in Kevin’s videos but it gets to be a bit too much if I watch for very long. Maybe I’m just past the target age of the typical RC watcher/buyer and he does have a sh*t load of subscribers so what do I know 🤷🤣
@@scottjlambert thanks Scott. Not being negative on myself here; more, just constructively critical and aware of where I need a bit of development. Still going to do things my way. Experiments will happen, but things aren't changing on the whole. Just tweaking and testing things a bit!
@@scottjlambert heh yes but with computers and not in the CAD/building/construction sense of the word. I do have a piece of paper with my name and 'engineer' on it but that's from 20 years ago. What you're observing is more of a general approach to things. Love to tinker. It never turns off in my head, but at least I enjoy it!
Haha someone has been watching a bit of Kev Talbot and Exocaged. Cool to see some products sent your way. Great tip with putting the screws back where they go. I do that on RCs and on my real cars. Magnetic bowls are great, but if the project spans multiple days or weeks, good luck remembering where all those different lengths live. Did those new towers let you lower the SCX6 at all? Also whatever storage system you have in your Land Cruiser looks so freakin cool 🤌
Thanks Andy. I finally got around to watching Kev Talbot, yeah! Been meaning to for ages. He sure knows how to make bench work entertaining. I want to have higher detail in some places but I definitely like how he handles repetition on camera. I took a deep dive into his content over the last fortnight. Haven't watched Exocaged yet but he popped up on Talbot's educational channel a few years back and expressed aspirations of going full time on UA-cam. He did the smart thing and watched the big guys early - that probably influenced how he made videos, and rightly so. I'm still finding my pacing and honing my flavour of RC video, but seeing how others do it was helpful. Should have done it sooner! The new towers let me lower it a bit, yep. I like the flexibility of the extra holes!
Hello! Do you know what aluminum alloy are these parts? At the VENKA Racing homepage you can read nothing about, only CNC - made. 7075? Vitavon parts are made of 7075… Aviation aluminium alloy. There‘s a lot of colourful soft aluminium stuff to be fond on the internet… You know what i mean…
I don't know, sorry. I haven't tested the Venka Racing gear by smelting it down and making aircraft fuselage and wings then testing that in high stress environs, but suffice to say for the intended use in an RC crawler, they've been amply strong so far - and I've driven a bunch since installing it all. My biggest concern with metals and crawling is the steel grade used in drive train parts. Monkey metal gears are the worst! These CNC bits are so large that even if they were of a poor alloy, I've gotta think they'd be strong enough at this size for the intended application. I don't know one way or the other though, sorry. I can say they were finished nicely, lightweight, precisely machined and have held up well so far, for whatever that's worth!
@@RCTNT Nice! I've been installing for 25 years and had two different jobs doing it but money isn't all that good working for someone. Clean sounds makes music sound so much better. When I got into rc it was easy to learn because it's all DC as you know. Instantly I thought the motor and esc was cool because it's like amps and subs. What you running?
Oh cool. I just like tinkering with audio and cars, so a stereo is always the first thing to go in. This was my 4th full car DIY install and went well. It's all older gear by today's standards but still recent enough. I installed a Kenwood 8018S 2-DIN touch deck (I wanted Android-compatible Spotify and USB input but I regret buying another Kenwood and won't do it a third time!). Has been reliable, just a bit inflexible and the firmware is balls. Polk DB6502 300W 2-way 6.5" splits in the doors, along with the dynamat! They're powered by one of the Pioneer amps (GM-D9604 1600W) while the mono block (GM-D9601 2400w) powers a Pioneer 12" TS-D12D4 dual voice coil 600W sub. I built the box myself using plans from a prominent car audio youtuber at the time (Mark, CarAudioFab). I put some photos in this album that I forgot existed until looking through my emails to answer you here. The sub came out beautifully and all cabling was carefully run with circuit breakers and fuses in-line). My 4wd has a giant alt and so this system and my fridge run off a third battery on its own management system in the engine bay. imgur.com/gallery/dIMJUYg Just a nicely balanced system and was worth the evenings to get it all done. Next time I do a system I'll probably go bigger on bass. This one kicks fine but it's insufficient. Need. More. Bass!
@@RCTNT Nice. That's a clean install. I sub to car audio fabrication. I'm surprised you don't have an inverter hooked up to extra battery's for charging batteries for rc cars. You probably do though or have one on hand. I bet the system sounds clean
Thanks! Glad to hear he's still going. I haven't looked him up since 2018, I probably should see what's going on these days! No inverter needed. I can charge 2x 6S 5A batteries at 1C from the back of my car without a problem. All on DC for maximum efficiency! (The main +ve cable is a 0Ga. welding cable from the third battery to the rear, on a hefty breaker at the bus in the engine bay). All works beautifully!
This is the biggest thing that I enjoy from the RC hobby. The attention to detail with these upgrades, and seeing how it improves the performance of the truck. The engineering that goes into these is awesome!!
I loved building my TRX4 Sport, but it's the slow process of gradually making it better (on a budget, in my case!!).
The SCX6 looks like a monster, and not having the front end flexing like a flexy thing must make a heap of difference!! It looks awesome, too. Way out of my budget.
Keep on doing what you've been doing. I love the style and content of your videos, as it's the complete antithesis of KT (I love what he does, too, and I agree that he hides a massive amount of knowledge and experience behind the loud and brash persona!!).
Take care. 👍🏻
Thanks for the thoughtful feedback, Rob. That was helpful.
I've said it before, but what a time to be into RC, eh?
@@RCTNT absolutely. As good as first discovering it, back in 1989!! 😎👍🏻
@@roblowrie1969 that's the year I got into RC too!
Agreed. It's a really fun aspect.
Nice parts and great video 👍
Thanks, it was fun to make and fun to upgrade the big 6!
I've got the same set headed my way lol 😆 can't wait to try them out . They look very well made
Ah nice! They seem like good folks, I was happy to take a look at everything. Enjoy!
I enjoyed the video and the parts upgrades look great. They seem to improve the crawler. I know almost nothing about crawlers. Is there ever a time you can add too much weight? The upgrades seem to reduce the flexing of certain chassis parts. In crawling do you want to reduce flexing in all cases? Thanks for sharing.
All weight you add needs to be pulled up over obstacles, fighting gravity. But you need some weight for traction - too light and tires can struggle to grip.
Chassis flex is fine, to some extent. We're not high speed road racing here. But flex in the steering or suspension links can mean loss of steering throw or impeded suspension cycling.
Everything is a compromise, but the Scx6 really suffered from poor steering due partly to flex on the panhard mounts at each end. These upgrades fix that, which is great!
Nice beefy upgrade!
It certainly is!
Now you need to upgrade those crappy electronics. Mamba Monster X 8s Esc and a 3 Brothers RC Black Jacket REALLY wake this thing up. The stock ESC is so weak the difference it makes replacing it with an ESC that can actually supply the stock steering servo with 8v continuously makes it not terrible.
Thanks, I bet that makes a difference. In our last video we stuck in a castle bec so the servo is now getting the power it really needs. Much better already.
I may upgrade the entire system at some point in future but for now I'm pretty happy with it. Yes, some of my 1/10 crawlers have stronger systems and servos than the Scx6 OEM gear, but I don't like to waste things and I get a lot of enjoyment from the stock system. I'll replace stuff as it breaks :)
@@RCTNT Must have missed that previous video, need to hit that bell ;)
The whole reason I ended up replacing my stock system was the ESC took a dump 4 miles into a trail. Thought the switch went bad so I pulled the wires out in an attempt to hot wire it but it was sadly completely shot. Had to carry that very heavy truck out of the trail.
Arg that sounds frustrating! I can understand the upgrade and I bet it's epic now!
I’ve got the mamba monster X and 860kv black jacket motor and while it’s got awesome power and control…the motor is very noisey…
Terrible whine that’s very annoying especially at slow speeds. I eventually replaced it with a castle 1717-1650kv motor and geared it down to 11t pinion….very happy with it now.
@markcole6475 glad you're happy. That's one thing I wish castle would address in their ESCs. PWM rate is too low, which helps maximum performance (less heat) but annoyingly loud whine. Even just the option in software would be appreciated!
If I only want to remove the flex from the steering, am I right to think that I just need the front C-hub carriers and front shock towers. I'm waiting for my SCX6 to arrive so I don't have it in front of me to look at yet.
Almost. The steering servo moves around in its plastic mount, too. I have some fiber jammed between it and the mudguard, but I've told Venka Racing about it and I understand they're working on a metal bracket for both servos, among other things.
You're gonna love this rig :)
@@RCTNT Thanks, yes replacing stock servo mounts with something stiffer is common in other larger rc's like the Arrma 6s cars.
You bet. Though my Arrmas have alu mounts already... But I have a famously bad memory, maybe I already replaced it. Anyway, you have the right idea! Enjoy it, they're great models!
Always enjoy your vids! I always forget just how massive the SCX6 is. Cheers!
Many thanks! Yes indeed she's a big girl!
Looking forward to some more scx6 content
Thanks, it's about time yeah! I do have some here though, if you've missed it
Axial SCX6: ua-cam.com/play/PLP6qQhzesLdor6epzJFIDcCk3u7vmn9qk.html
Never used a bleeder valve on my shocks before.
So I’m thinking fill the shock with oil, put the cap back on, undo the valve screw and compress the shock a few times to get the air out, compress the shock up and tighten the valve screw.
Sound about right?
Almost. Remove the bleeder screw, remove the shock cap, fill the shock to near the top but not full, slowly compress the shock, cycle slowly a few times until bubbles are gone.
Compress the shock fully and hold, then replace the shock cap. With shock still compressed fully, replace the bleeder screw. Clean up the mess. Done!
@@RCTNT awesome mate thank you 👍
I know it sounds simple but I haven’t had to do it that way before on my 1/10 trucks.
The Honcho I’m learning is a bit different.
Keep up the great work 👍
Happy to help, Rod, thanks.
It's really ashame how noodley the stock parts are. For $1100 plus tax id expect it to perform better. I'm on the fence about getting this versus a regular scx10. Yet I can't justify dropping another $700 in parts and servo to get it adequate
You'll need less than that to get it sorted. I used the stock servo all this time until recently. The metal panhard mount is a great start, plus a bec for servo. That's really it for getting things to a decent level.
I agree it's a shame you need to do that in the first place!
Well the esc and motor are nice. Whereas the motor and esc in a majority of rtrs are not good at all...
@keldonator absolutely, yes
Website doesn’t work for me, says it’s forbidden, are they still around ?
Whoa! Look at that, maybe not.. I haven't heard anything but yeah, definitely offline now.
Well that's a bummer, this was good gear too! If anything changes I'll let you know, but I guess these guys may be out. Thanks for letting me know.
@@RCTNT no problem, disappointing really as the parts looked decent.
A littéralement Kevin Talbot magic
I may have been heavily influenced by his RC-fu for this one, yes!
You're an Aussie?
I'd like to get a Honcho but pricing is a bit extreme, have you had an issues with your truck?
I like the larger size as is easier to work on, more room, just a better experience.
Yep, Australian. Truck is great. Issues have been covered in my videos. Main issue is steering, which can be sorted in the "get it right!" video from a while back plus the CNC gear in this video. Most recently, the original servo has finally started to fail so I'm going to have to replace it with something a bit better. Otherwise, it's a brilliant machine.
@@RCTNT I used to get a lot of my running gear from Hobbyking, I sold all my gear then bought a few crawlers, less stress less breakages.
I checked out your Ovonic vid, I would only need a 2S 50C max right?
As for the steering servo, what would you recommend and from where?
It gives me an indication of how much I need to sink into this before I realize it's a money pit.
I am actually thinking of 1 to walk the dog with lol.
I used to use hobbyking all the time too. Haven't done so for 5 or 6 years now but for the preceding decade, all the time.
Correct on battery requirements.
Servo-stock one is fine. I killed mine with hard crawling. Power HD has a cheap 60kg one for $80 or so. There's a 40kg savox for about $145 and a 130kg brushless jx servo for about $300. I'm probably going with the power HD one and we'll see how that goes first.
Great rigs, all round.
@@RCTNT Power HD sounds familiar, I just checked my modded Trax crawler and I have 1 installed, came in a cool metal case.
LW25MG, since the trax are flat on surface, it can be hard to turn but this servo does the job easily.
Great servo for the $
I'm a big fan of jx servo. Have used them a bunch. I only have 3 or 4 power HD servos, which is not many when you consider the size of my RC 'fleet', but they've been fine so far!
Wasn’t expecting a video today but it’s like you read my mind because I’m so close to pulling the trigger and buying an SCX6 this weekend. Every video you release you seem like you’re sliding right into your own comfort zone and style. Another commenter on your last video, I think it was, said something about not being too much like Kevin Talbot and I agree. Never go full Kevin Talbot - bit of a Tropic Thunder reference there 😆. Cheers Craig!
Bwahahaha there is only one Kev Talbot and that's the way it'll stay! I'm going to experiment with different styles a bit more but have no plans to change my core video approach, don't worry :)
I got the reference, though after watching KT in depth this past fortnight, I must say he hides a deep level of competence and knowledge behind the rough and tumble exterior. There's a lot to learn in his videos - it isn't all wanton destruction!
I'm going to check out a few different channels. I should have watched them earlier but instead just did my own thing. I need a little guidance on style, pacing, variety, presentation, sound, editing, etc. Never made videos before and I shouldn't have just made it up as I went. Not changing core values but definitely seeking style and pacing influence.
You're going to love the Scx6. It has issues steering right but my videos cover how to address that. Otherwise, epic crawler. Enjoy!
@@RCTNT Don’t knock yourself for making videos on your own without influence because you’ve done pretty damn well I’d say. You’ve drawn in myself and several thousand other subscribers and that’s not bad at all!
There is good information to be had in Kevin’s videos but it gets to be a bit too much if I watch for very long. Maybe I’m just past the target age of the typical RC watcher/buyer and he does have a sh*t load of subscribers so what do I know 🤷🤣
@@scottjlambert thanks Scott. Not being negative on myself here; more, just constructively critical and aware of where I need a bit of development.
Still going to do things my way. Experiments will happen, but things aren't changing on the whole. Just tweaking and testing things a bit!
@@RCTNT Are you by chance an engineer? I could see an engineers mind analyzing itself with your statement. I mean that as a compliment to be clear lol
@@scottjlambert heh yes but with computers and not in the CAD/building/construction sense of the word. I do have a piece of paper with my name and 'engineer' on it but that's from 20 years ago.
What you're observing is more of a general approach to things. Love to tinker. It never turns off in my head, but at least I enjoy it!
Nice to be able to work from the taillage of the truck
Aye! Nice place to film from, as it turns out :)
Danke, sehr schön wie ausführlich er davon berichtet !!
Gern geschehen!
This thing is awesome. I hope we can see it on the trail with other beasties one day :)
Have I not done that yet? ..huh, you're right. Better rectify that right prompt like then!
@@RCTNT 😁
Carbon steel is not stronger than stainless steel..
That's usually the case, yep. I don't recall discussing this in the video but if I did, then it sounds like I made an error. Nice catch!
Awesome video & rig!!
Thanks 👍
Venca racing page does not exist 😂
Yeah, they seem to have closed up shop. A shame!
@@RCTNT not really, China stuff sucks, vitavon is the best
When it's brass, there's no great difference. Vitavon's alu stuff is ace though
@@RCTNT brass would be dumb on a truck that is that heavy already
I was answering more broadly. The Scx6 is epic out of the box, well balanced and a performer. I'm a fan :)
Haha someone has been watching a bit of Kev Talbot and Exocaged. Cool to see some products sent your way. Great tip with putting the screws back where they go. I do that on RCs and on my real cars. Magnetic bowls are great, but if the project spans multiple days or weeks, good luck remembering where all those different lengths live. Did those new towers let you lower the SCX6 at all? Also whatever storage system you have in your Land Cruiser looks so freakin cool 🤌
Thanks Andy. I finally got around to watching Kev Talbot, yeah! Been meaning to for ages. He sure knows how to make bench work entertaining. I want to have higher detail in some places but I definitely like how he handles repetition on camera.
I took a deep dive into his content over the last fortnight. Haven't watched Exocaged yet but he popped up on Talbot's educational channel a few years back and expressed aspirations of going full time on UA-cam. He did the smart thing and watched the big guys early - that probably influenced how he made videos, and rightly so. I'm still finding my pacing and honing my flavour of RC video, but seeing how others do it was helpful. Should have done it sooner!
The new towers let me lower it a bit, yep. I like the flexibility of the extra holes!
Hello! Do you know what aluminum alloy are these parts? At the VENKA Racing homepage you can read nothing about, only CNC - made. 7075? Vitavon parts are made of 7075… Aviation aluminium alloy. There‘s a lot of colourful soft aluminium stuff to be fond on the internet… You know what i mean…
I don't know, sorry. I haven't tested the Venka Racing gear by smelting it down and making aircraft fuselage and wings then testing that in high stress environs, but suffice to say for the intended use in an RC crawler, they've been amply strong so far - and I've driven a bunch since installing it all.
My biggest concern with metals and crawling is the steel grade used in drive train parts. Monkey metal gears are the worst!
These CNC bits are so large that even if they were of a poor alloy, I've gotta think they'd be strong enough at this size for the intended application. I don't know one way or the other though, sorry. I can say they were finished nicely, lightweight, precisely machined and have held up well so far, for whatever that's worth!
@@RCTNT You‘re fast,mate! Thanks for your answer!I appreciate that very mutch. Thumbs up!!!
Only twice a day, but you got me bang on time with this one. Cheers
Damn right you made room for the sub box
Haha full stereo build was the first thing I did when I got this car! Full wire looms, sound deadening, amps and big gauge power, the works.
@@RCTNT Nice! I've been installing for 25 years and had two different jobs doing it but money isn't all that good working for someone. Clean sounds makes music sound so much better. When I got into rc it was easy to learn because it's all DC as you know. Instantly I thought the motor and esc was cool because it's like amps and subs. What you running?
Oh cool. I just like tinkering with audio and cars, so a stereo is always the first thing to go in. This was my 4th full car DIY install and went well.
It's all older gear by today's standards but still recent enough. I installed a Kenwood 8018S 2-DIN touch deck (I wanted Android-compatible Spotify and USB input but I regret buying another Kenwood and won't do it a third time!). Has been reliable, just a bit inflexible and the firmware is balls.
Polk DB6502 300W 2-way 6.5" splits in the doors, along with the dynamat! They're powered by one of the Pioneer amps (GM-D9604 1600W) while the mono block (GM-D9601 2400w) powers a Pioneer 12" TS-D12D4 dual voice coil 600W sub.
I built the box myself using plans from a prominent car audio youtuber at the time (Mark, CarAudioFab).
I put some photos in this album that I forgot existed until looking through my emails to answer you here. The sub came out beautifully and all cabling was carefully run with circuit breakers and fuses in-line). My 4wd has a giant alt and so this system and my fridge run off a third battery on its own management system in the engine bay.
imgur.com/gallery/dIMJUYg
Just a nicely balanced system and was worth the evenings to get it all done. Next time I do a system I'll probably go bigger on bass. This one kicks fine but it's insufficient. Need. More. Bass!
@@RCTNT Nice. That's a clean install. I sub to car audio fabrication. I'm surprised you don't have an inverter hooked up to extra battery's for charging batteries for rc cars. You probably do though or have one on hand. I bet the system sounds clean
Thanks! Glad to hear he's still going. I haven't looked him up since 2018, I probably should see what's going on these days!
No inverter needed. I can charge 2x 6S 5A batteries at 1C from the back of my car without a problem. All on DC for maximum efficiency! (The main +ve cable is a 0Ga. welding cable from the third battery to the rear, on a hefty breaker at the bus in the engine bay). All works beautifully!