The 5V rail says sb on the rating, which means standby. It's there to power the soft power switch function of the console, which then requests the main rail come on. Basically identical to how an ATX power supply works, and many people have botched ATX supplies into xbox 360 supplies, as well as reused xbox 360 supplies as nice compact high power bricks for their hobby battery chargers. You'll need to look up the pinout for the connector to see how to request it to turn the main rail on, but I think this unit should be pretty easily fixable. Clean off the corrosion with soap and water, dry it with the molten hair drier and touch up any solder joints that have been corroded away
Consoles are secretly just locked down PCs, so they use the same technology of course. PCs also have a 5VSB rail that it on as soon as you connect the mains to the PSU and switch on the PSU if it has a switch. From there the motherboard can either do BIOS updates from USB with that standby power, you can charge your phone on selected USB ports and it powers the platform management micro controller which controls the power button and fail save circuitry to turn on the PC safely.
I hacked mine to disable the over-current protection. The LED for overload still turns red indefinitely in event of overload but it can't shut down due to inrush current anymore. Ideally I would have hack in some time delay shut-down that emulates a thermal circuit breaker but oh well.
These power supplies are a beast for their size, I used 3 of them to power 3 grow lights a year or 2 ago (1 per light). They powered everything without issue. I just had to jump one of the wires to be able to switch them on and if there was an issue the power supply would throw the red light, then I would have to power cycle that particular on. I ended up getting a bad cap due to a bad Igniter on one of the HID ballasts. Great Video!!! Thanks
So happy to see this video! Your troubleshooting videos are some of the most important and valuable electronics troubleshooting Videos on the Internet! You have two or three where you summarize all of the test procedures and most common things that can go wrong… And you do it so well anyone can understand! It is definitely the thing you are best at! Thank you!
Another great video by the SMPS-god himself I'm always blown away how much you can tell about a Power Supply by just looking at it. But this also raised quite a lot of questions for me (us), mere mortals,... Maybe an idea to do a few theory videos where you explain things like "half-bridge", "1 switch forward", "flyback","active power factor correction" vs "passive power factor correction" and how that relates to ferrite core/iron core transformers... all illustrated by some practical examples like you typically do I (and I guess many others as well) would be super-interested in this... Thank you for your teaching us on SMPS with your great videos, chrisV
Essentially all the standard forward topologies works exactly like a traditional 50/60Hz iron transformer, rectifier, and filter choke combination. The secondary produces current at the same time as the primary draws current (aka it produces output on the "Forward" stroke). The only difference is they use a ferrite transformer driven by a high frequency inverter. Passive PFC is simple, it's just an iron core coil in series with the input to smooth out the current waveform. Active PFC is a basic boost converter, except the duty cycle is controlled differently. Flyback supplies are somewhat like boost converters. On one stroke magnetic energy is put into the core, on the other stroke the current is removed from the primary and the voltage inverts as the coil tries to maintain the same current. On this inverse stroke the secondary diodes conduct and charge the output capacitors. I hope this helps a bit, although I'm sure DGW could explain better.
It's an LLC resonant converter, and as you said, it uses frequency modulation instead of PWM. The transformer propably has an air gap, just like in the flyback topology
Your theories and descriptive drawings have shown me a great deal about power supplies and I really appreciate your time. I also enjoy your perspective and your “translation” of the Xbox three hundred sixty power supply you are breaking down and explaining in such detail.
Please make the schematic. Looks very interesting. Also could you explain why regular half bridge needs an output inductor and what would be without it.
It seems to be a trend for Xbox's PSU to be single voltage. In the former days, I have fixed some american 100-120V Xbox 360 and Xbox One power supplies that people plugged into mains 220V. Here in south of Brazil my state is 220V but people tend to import xbox from other countries and they come in 120V version, causing people to plug them into transformers in order to be able to use them, but sometimes people forget and than it went boom. All cases it was only the MOV that fails, just replacing the input varistor and fuse fixes the entire PSU, sometimes the NTC also crackes.
It's not just Xbox, the PC/server industry as a whole is moving to 12V single output power supplies. Modern electronics requires so many different voltages that local regulation is used to generate the required voltages next to the parts that need them.
@@TomStorey96 true, I can imagine it as the future standard, since many power hungry components require 12V feed and produce their regulated voltages near the load, like computer GPUs and CPUs.
For 120V >> 220V there are 3 things to check. MOV for 120V will start to clamp at 200V or so, which is why it pops. This must be upgraded to a suitable "220V rated" MOV of similar or larger diameter. Alternatively, just remove old MOV (it is in parallel with mains after the fuse). The clamping of MOV shorts the mains input and blows the input fuse, so that needs to be replaced (same value will be OK). PTC should be OK but may have been stressed like you say. The third thing is the big mains side smoothing capacitor. For 120V the current will be double, so they may use higher uF but with lower voltage so that it will fit in the same size casing. A 220V supply needs 380-400V capacitor, so you need to check that when you replace the MOV and Fuse. On very old ATX PSUs with input voltage switch, what they did was have 2 x 200V caps in Parallel for 120V supply, and change that to 2 x 200V caps in Series for 220V switch position. Often everything else was the same, only the caps were altered!
In my experience with heavily soiled boards Nitro Solvent (mix of solvents, used as degreasing agent/paint thinner) has the biggest impact besides contact cleaner spray. The board show little evidence of electrolysis, more of corrosion and rusty liquid. I guess it entered fault mode so it didn't run for long with the liquid inside. Hopefully we get to see some waveforms.
If you can, I'd be very interested in the touch current produced between dc output and your house's ground/neutral. I have two North America versions of these and they seem to work well, but produce enough leakage current to be uncomfortable to touch.
Quite good units. Seems like these are worth collecting to power various loads. At 14,2 amps on the 12V rail I am surprised they did not step it up to 24V to cut the current in half.
As one can see on the transformer labels, this unit was made by "Hipro" Hipro is one of the good manufacturers that are used by OEMs, like Delta, Seasonic, Meanwell, etc...
Thank you ! I love those, I always buy them at thrift shops, and I use them for amateur radios, really any 12 V circuit, they are so cheap used and pretty good quality
I have one exactly like this one, I got from a jumble sale. It is in perfect condition and I adapted the output with molex connector. The leds are red (lighted when the PSU is not yet activated through one 5V activation pin) and green (when it is on). It makes fairly loud noise, that's why I don't use it yet.
In the USA, we have common household cleaners that are formulated to clean Calcium, Lime and Rust, all from a single spray liquid. If such a cleaner is available in your country, it would likely make it much easier to clean the PCB. This liquid just sort of makes the rust disappear. Of course, you would need to make sure that it would not hurt the metals on the PCB - solder/lead/tin/silver and traces/copper, or the shielding - before applying the cleaner. Maybe another viewer will have expertise in chemistry and can comment... But, as for the rust, it will likely do a good job of removing it and without much scrubbing. I hope this helps.
I'm not super familiar but could this be a resonant-mode LLC converter? The non-universal input would agree with that as they seem to require a more specific range of input DC voltages than flyback or forward. The SergeyMax DIY RF soldering station I built is designed to incorporate one of those, and it looks a lot like this, with the litz wire windings, split secondary with two diodes and no output inductor. I couldn't use that part of the design because I am in a 120V country and it requires 200V DC input. It also has a half bridge but in the case of Sergey's design it's integrated into the controller chip.
When you see such a transformer It Is almost for sure. They make them that way so to increase the resonant inductance, to avoid using an external one, and this way reducing overall footprint of the resonant circuit, requiring only the external capacitor.
It looks like LLC half bridge where the leakage inductance of loose coupled transformer is used as resonant inductance. Because of mentioned leakage inductance this topology does not need storage inductor after rectifying diodes. :)
Great video! Probaply this episode would have way more views if people knew there's a nice and short restoration ASMR part beginning at 14:14 in this video!
What do you think about the AM shutdown? (At the end of 2021, Czech public radio stations went off-air, and iconic high-power transmitters from the Cold War era were turned off.)
Whole Europe will follow. I think the AM bands will be used for digital stuff soon as well. If you have analog radios, they will soon be very quiet... It's how it is.
@@kyoudaiken I’d guess that in tge Czech Republic, FM will outlast DAB+. There was a lot of pushback against the AM shutdown and they managed to postpone it by 8 years before giving in. Nearly all receivers from the 70s onwards had FM anyway, so even if you had a legitimate reason to listen to AM, all you usually needed for an upgrade to FM was a longer antenna. For an FM→digital upgrade, you need to buy a receiver that has not 10 but 100000 transistors. Digital tramsmissions have a reputation of a relatively short timespan here, DVB-T (MPEG-2) only lasted 15 years before being replaced by the HEVC-based DVB-T2, the original DAB (MPEG-3) never made it outside of experimental transmission, the AAC-based DAB+ is now 15 years old and an Opus-based standard may be coming. Also, FM is VERY profitable for the office responsible for frequency allocations, which sadly does not favor independent local stations.
I've used one of these to power a polaroid LCD-2000 flat screen TV and it worked well for a long time. The supply had a bug where it would power on whenever it was plugged in. I had the two blue and purple enable wires hanging out because one time it wouldn't power up. It has failed and it sitting on my workbench waiting to be fixed.
5V is just for standby (like a PC Power supply) & 12V is the main power like in modern PCs = you can modify a PC Power supply for ther XBOX-360 ... the manufacturer is E143709 = "Hipro"
The tone of your voice reminds me of children who tattle on their classmates. Like "Ooooo you're in trouble", except you're tattling on companies "Ooooo you made a shitty rectifier".
I ended up with one of these, I cut off the big plug and added an Anderson power-pole connector. It would be good if I can get a bit more that 12V out of it - 13.8 would be nice.
Having no ground sucks, it could have one connected to the ouput negative. Note: a forward or half bridge does not absolutely need an inductor, it can be rectified like ac 50hz out of an iron transformer. I made a halfbridge power supply using this topology, which is much easier because no feedback loop is needed, you have constant duty cycle.
Not a big deal, but it is so strange to hear the console referred to as an XBox "three-hundred" sixty. For those not familiar with this product, Microsoft marketed/pronounced it as the Xbox three-sixty, at least in North America.
@@lindenhoch8396 Really? That's what you chose to reply to? While I wouldn't have made the comment is is still useful; it seems likely DGW has never heard it before.
If there are only two voltages to control (12V and 5VSB) why are there three optocouplers? If two of them are part of feedback control loop for two voltages, what’s the purpose of third one?
man it is almost lack AT power supply i think some were rated at 230 watt also it might work as a good lead acid battery charger, say when battery is drained to 10.5 volts
There were several variations (203/175/150/130/115 watts), with the initial one requiring the most wattage, and as the 360 design was modified over time, the power consumption decreased.
my PSU blew up component B8, I can't figure out which component it is, any help? it's in the top right-hand corner at minute 9:30 it seems to be connected between the TNY276PN drain and the small transformer nearby
What is the grey goop holding the components (from vibration I assume). I am looking for a good product to do the same that is not caustic over time.... thx Dave
I might have exactly same working power supply, will have a look in the shed. Also I'd like to send one from phat ps3, presumably working, if you're interested.
Have you ever done a pole to see what people would be interested in seeing I really want to see a vacuum tube Tesla coil because I have a power supply that should be able to power it it's from a 1 KW linear vacuum tube amplifier
have one of these. always wanted to see a good tare down video of it,... COOL mine is is different to this one.. but can't wait to see the next video on this.. : )
Xbox 360 psu is a weird atx psu with 12v and 5v standby, and enable, iirc 3.3v is generated internally within the console, they make great bench psu, thats a newer psu the original were 203w
I've recendly took a look in half bridge smps 12v 30a, and the output inductor was placed on the common GND rail at the output instead after the double rectification of the 12V. Does that sound normal to you guys?
Thanks for the vid man, (dont try this at boys ) usually after 15 minutes my psu goes to red led and xbox shutdown, though when I keep a pc fan on the psu while its open/exposed it lasts for much longer, i guess small fan in the psu cant dissipate/exhaust enough heat, while the pc fan can due to the size difference and that the PSU exposed it allows for much more heat dissipation/cools the psu better. I know i said that in a little confusing way but i hope this helps someone to figure out the problem faster.
Xbox 360 PSU is basically a throw-away item. Just buy a new one from local Charity store or even Ebay. I find many of them in hard-rubbish collection piles outside people's houses. Very few people play Xbox 360, it is so out pf date... so you can find complete consoles very cheap or free.
Do you mean single phase 240V with center tap neutral (like most US households)? It should work with a 240V outlet, though in the US most such outlets require "funny" plugs.
Is any way tweet it up from 12 volt to 13.8 volt I do run this XBOX supply on my Ham radio I just don't get the max output of my Ham Radio as it running on 12 volt.
Often there's a resistor divider circuit to provide the feedback, so adjusting the output just requires changing a resistor. We'll see in the next episode.
If "max output" of your ham radio is 100w like I suspect it is, you will never get anywhere close to the current you would need from this power supply. It takes a little over 20amps of current from the power supply to output 100w RF from a ham radio.
@@creepingmee no need for all these information as am radio amateur we know what we doing the radio are 13.8 volt 10 watts if you do the Formula 10 watts ÷ 13.8 volt = yes it not doing the 10 watts because the Xbox are 12 volt is just over 8½ watts Not all ham radios are 100 watts some goes from 5 to 200 watts.
I use these power supplys in projects and find that if I touch the out put they have what a "spiky" feel to them a bit like touching high voltage. Will be curious to see the output.
(Hint: look at the datasheet) The 3843 will operate at lower voltages, so that isn't a problem. However the 3843 will go to 100% duty cycle while the 3844 will only go to 50% duty cycle. The increased duty cycle might cause core saturation and bad things could happen. It might just be unstable or it might fry some components (most likely the primary-side transistor). Then again it might work because the current sensing would try to compensate. If you don't mind breaking your device you could try the '43, otherwise try to find a '44 or '45.
@@eDoc2020 no no you may have seen the welding machine of diode gone wild if you see in the schematic you see at schematics there is 44 if I replace it with a 43 and since some components in the driving circuit handsome ho limit the duty cycle to 50% it might work but how i can limit the duty cycle?
That high frequency transformer looks like it's made out of the same twisted strand "Angel hair" wire as the output transformer of my Panasonic inverter microwave oven. When I first saw this kind of winding, I was curious as to why it was made that way. Only later did I discover the reasoning behind it. It will be interesting to see this thing working again, but from the metallic looking deposits (oyster shell appearance) it was powered up whilst flooded, and a lot of leakage current has occurred. I wonder just how much silicon has survived, and what's been cooked.
In Europe, people don’t seem to be using consoles that much, instead investing in whatever PC hardware fits their needs. Not coumting handhelds, demos and shows, I have actually only seen people play on console once. It was in a children’s hospital where a computer could not be deployed as kids might mess with it or chew on wires. Yes, measures like wireless peripherals, a custom shell with child-focused UI or access-limiting OS setup are available but the facility wanted a quick and easy solution and bought a PS4. (Good for them, I would have done my best to circumvent the OS lockdown.) Evidence suggests that at least one other person in the Czech Republic owns a PS4 as some game disks were stolen from their cases. Given how popular the Xbox is in the (mostly) American modding community, I would expect decent reverse-engineered documentation of the PSU online (at least the 110V version) but I can’t find any... Just an iFixit teardown and connector pinouts from people guiding how to power the Xbox using an ATX PSU. Also, interesting to see that they used a separate yellow LED, rather than just mixing red and green, which are often seen on one package, and were common even in 2008.
In Germany I think console vs. PC is 50:50 and well balanced. For a hobby electronics engineer used XBox PSUs make for cheap bench power supplies using boost/buck regulators that can be digitally set up. You can get up to 32 volts and still enough amps to do some high power LED testing and of coursed 12V and downwards with stupidly high amperage.
The 5V rail says sb on the rating, which means standby. It's there to power the soft power switch function of the console, which then requests the main rail come on. Basically identical to how an ATX power supply works, and many people have botched ATX supplies into xbox 360 supplies, as well as reused xbox 360 supplies as nice compact high power bricks for their hobby battery chargers.
You'll need to look up the pinout for the connector to see how to request it to turn the main rail on, but I think this unit should be pretty easily fixable. Clean off the corrosion with soap and water, dry it with the molten hair drier and touch up any solder joints that have been corroded away
Consoles are secretly just locked down PCs, so they use the same technology of course. PCs also have a 5VSB rail that it on as soon as you connect the mains to the PSU and switch on the PSU if it has a switch. From there the motherboard can either do BIOS updates from USB with that standby power, you can charge your phone on selected USB ports and it powers the platform management micro controller which controls the power button and fail save circuitry to turn on the PC safely.
@@kyoudaiken Yes. The “otherOS” functionality of PS3 proves it.
Don't forget to apply a louis Rossman level of Flux before touching those joints up 😂
I hacked mine to disable the over-current protection. The LED for overload still turns red indefinitely in event of overload but it can't shut down due to inrush current anymore. Ideally I would have hack in some time delay shut-down that emulates a thermal circuit breaker but oh well.
corrosion is best removed using vinegar
I've never seen such machine. Pure gold
Consoles are not as common in Eastern Europe as they are in the west. I think I have never seen an xbox 360 either.
These power supplies are a beast for their size, I used 3 of them to power 3 grow lights a year or 2 ago (1 per light). They powered everything without issue. I just had to jump one of the wires to be able to switch them on and if there was an issue the power supply would throw the red light, then I would have to power cycle that particular on. I ended up getting a bad cap due to a bad Igniter on one of the HID ballasts. Great Video!!! Thanks
Internet assumes you were growing plants of the Herbaceous variety?
Should use (rgb) led lights
So happy to see this video! Your troubleshooting videos are some of the most important and valuable electronics troubleshooting Videos on the Internet! You have two or three where you summarize all of the test procedures and most common things that can go wrong… And you do it so well anyone can understand! It is definitely the thing you are best at! Thank you!
Another great video by the SMPS-god himself
I'm always blown away how much you can tell about a Power Supply by just looking at it.
But this also raised quite a lot of questions for me (us), mere mortals,...
Maybe an idea
to do a few theory videos where you explain things like "half-bridge", "1 switch forward", "flyback","active power factor correction" vs "passive power factor correction" and how that relates to ferrite core/iron core transformers... all illustrated by some practical examples like you typically do
I (and I guess many others as well) would be super-interested in this...
Thank you for your teaching us on SMPS with your great videos,
chrisV
There are other topologies too, such as full-bridge (2 half-bridges), resonant ZCS/ZVS, 2 switch forward, etc..
Essentially all the standard forward topologies works exactly like a traditional 50/60Hz iron transformer, rectifier, and filter choke combination. The secondary produces current at the same time as the primary draws current (aka it produces output on the "Forward" stroke). The only difference is they use a ferrite transformer driven by a high frequency inverter.
Passive PFC is simple, it's just an iron core coil in series with the input to smooth out the current waveform.
Active PFC is a basic boost converter, except the duty cycle is controlled differently.
Flyback supplies are somewhat like boost converters. On one stroke magnetic energy is put into the core, on the other stroke the current is removed from the primary and the voltage inverts as the coil tries to maintain the same current. On this inverse stroke the secondary diodes conduct and charge the output capacitors.
I hope this helps a bit, although I'm sure DGW could explain better.
It's an LLC resonant converter, and as you said, it uses frequency modulation instead of PWM. The transformer propably has an air gap, just like in the flyback topology
Your theories and descriptive drawings have shown me a great deal about power supplies and I really appreciate your time. I also enjoy your perspective and your “translation” of the Xbox three hundred sixty power supply you are breaking down and explaining in such detail.
Interesting to see, Thanks. I just bought one of these to power 12V car stuff, coolbox etc.
Please make the schematic. Looks very interesting.
Also could you explain why regular half bridge needs an output inductor and what would be without it.
I just wanted to go to bed but guess I'll be here for the next 15 minutes 😅👌🏻
Lol happened to you too
It seems to be a trend for Xbox's PSU to be single voltage. In the former days, I have fixed some american 100-120V Xbox 360 and Xbox One power supplies that people plugged into mains 220V. Here in south of Brazil my state is 220V but people tend to import xbox from other countries and they come in 120V version, causing people to plug them into transformers in order to be able to use them, but sometimes people forget and than it went boom. All cases it was only the MOV that fails, just replacing the input varistor and fuse fixes the entire PSU, sometimes the NTC also crackes.
It's not just Xbox, the PC/server industry as a whole is moving to 12V single output power supplies.
Modern electronics requires so many different voltages that local regulation is used to generate the required voltages next to the parts that need them.
@@TomStorey96 true, I can imagine it as the future standard, since many power hungry components require 12V feed and produce their regulated voltages near the load, like computer GPUs and CPUs.
@@WagTsX exactly 🙂
It'S quiet rare these days to see limited range switching PSUs, that's true. I think it has to do with its topology.
For 120V >> 220V there are 3 things to check.
MOV for 120V will start to clamp at 200V or so, which is why it pops. This must be upgraded to a suitable "220V rated" MOV of similar or larger diameter. Alternatively, just remove old MOV (it is in parallel with mains after the fuse).
The clamping of MOV shorts the mains input and blows the input fuse, so that needs to be replaced (same value will be OK). PTC should be OK but may have been stressed like you say.
The third thing is the big mains side smoothing capacitor. For 120V the current will be double, so they may use higher uF but with lower voltage so that it will fit in the same size casing. A 220V supply needs 380-400V capacitor, so you need to check that when you replace the MOV and Fuse.
On very old ATX PSUs with input voltage switch, what they did was have 2 x 200V caps in Parallel for 120V supply, and change that to 2 x 200V caps in Series for 220V switch position. Often everything else was the same, only the caps were altered!
In my experience with heavily soiled boards Nitro Solvent (mix of solvents, used as degreasing agent/paint thinner) has the biggest impact besides contact cleaner spray.
The board show little evidence of electrolysis, more of corrosion and rusty liquid. I guess it entered fault mode so it didn't run for long with the liquid inside. Hopefully we get to see some waveforms.
Most likely it was thrown away and sat in rubbish bin that was 1/4 full of water.
If you can, I'd be very interested in the touch current produced between dc output and your house's ground/neutral. I have two North America versions of these and they seem to work well, but produce enough leakage current to be uncomfortable to touch.
Quite good units. Seems like these are worth collecting to power various loads.
At 14,2 amps on the 12V rail I am surprised they did not step it up to 24V to cut the current in half.
As one can see on the transformer labels, this unit was made by "Hipro"
Hipro is one of the good manufacturers that are used by OEMs, like Delta, Seasonic, Meanwell, etc...
I can hardly wait for the next video. 😁👍
Thank you ! I love those, I always buy them at thrift shops, and I use them for amateur radios, really any 12 V circuit, they are so cheap used and pretty good quality
This is LLC topology, it looks immediately when you see the transformer. So there is no PWM and output inductor.
Why the hell do i just love seeing perfectly soldered and nice psu !!!!???? Damn niceeee :D
You are so knowledgeable with SMPS anyway!
I have one exactly like this one, I got from a jumble sale. It is in perfect condition and I adapted the output with molex connector. The leds are red (lighted when the PSU is not yet activated through one 5V activation pin) and green (when it is on). It makes fairly loud noise, that's why I don't use it yet.
Maybe just fan noise? Try lightly oiling it with WD40 maybe?
@@englishrupe01 Yes, could be it.
@@englishrupe01 Never use WD40 to lubricate things, it ends up removing any existing lubrication. It's better to use proper lubricating oil.
In the USA, we have common household cleaners that are formulated to clean Calcium, Lime and Rust, all from a single spray liquid. If such a cleaner is available in your country, it would likely make it much easier to clean the PCB. This liquid just sort of makes the rust disappear. Of course, you would need to make sure that it would not hurt the metals on the PCB - solder/lead/tin/silver and traces/copper, or the shielding - before applying the cleaner. Maybe another viewer will have expertise in chemistry and can comment... But, as for the rust, it will likely do a good job of removing it and without much scrubbing. I hope this helps.
I'm not super familiar but could this be a resonant-mode LLC converter? The non-universal input would agree with that as they seem to require a more specific range of input DC voltages than flyback or forward.
The SergeyMax DIY RF soldering station I built is designed to incorporate one of those, and it looks a lot like this, with the litz wire windings, split secondary with two diodes and no output inductor. I couldn't use that part of the design because I am in a 120V country and it requires 200V DC input. It also has a half bridge but in the case of Sergey's design it's integrated into the controller chip.
Yes, it probably is :) these tend to use a variable frequency (frequency modulation) instead of PWM.
When you see such a transformer It Is almost for sure. They make them that way so to increase the resonant inductance, to avoid using an external one, and this way reducing overall footprint of the resonant circuit, requiring only the external capacitor.
@@DiodeGoneWild can i use varistor as class y capacity? Please reply
@@flatspin5382 absolutely not
@@fabriziobrutti1205 but why?
Not only tickling us with that GDR calculator diplay, but also leaving us with a cliffhanger !
Je čech, můžeš mluvit česky. :DD
@@lebbyash Tak samozřejmě, ale češtinu si nechám na další opravu škodovky na druhým kanále :D
It looks like LLC half bridge where the leakage inductance of loose coupled transformer is used as resonant inductance. Because of mentioned leakage inductance this topology does not need storage inductor after rectifying diodes. :)
Great video! Probaply this episode would have way more views if people knew there's a nice and short restoration ASMR part beginning at 14:14 in this video!
Learning about really well made stuff can be just as interesting as extremely dodgy. :)
it hurts to wait for the second part :)
What do you think about the AM shutdown?
(At the end of 2021, Czech public radio stations went off-air, and iconic high-power transmitters from the Cold War era were turned off.)
I'm my place, the last nuclear power plants had shut down yesterday (I'm not sure the exact time though)
Thanks for the info, I usually get (got…) Cesky Rozhlas in south east Germany.
I'll miss it.
Whole Europe will follow. I think the AM bands will be used for digital stuff soon as well. If you have analog radios, they will soon be very quiet... It's how it is.
@@kyoudaiken I’d guess that in tge Czech Republic, FM will outlast DAB+. There was a lot of pushback against the AM shutdown and they managed to postpone it by 8 years before giving in. Nearly all receivers from the 70s onwards had FM anyway, so even if you had a legitimate reason to listen to AM, all you usually needed for an upgrade to FM was a longer antenna. For an FM→digital upgrade, you need to buy a receiver that has not 10 but 100000 transistors. Digital tramsmissions have a reputation of a relatively short timespan here, DVB-T (MPEG-2) only lasted 15 years before being replaced by the HEVC-based DVB-T2, the original DAB (MPEG-3) never made it outside of experimental transmission, the AAC-based DAB+ is now 15 years old and an Opus-based standard may be coming. Also, FM is VERY profitable for the office responsible for frequency allocations, which sadly does not favor independent local stations.
@@LMB222 At 639 kHz from Liblice, which has been marked as PRAG on radios since 1948?
Really an interesting video is coming along soon.
I've used one of these to power a polaroid LCD-2000 flat screen TV and it worked well for a long time. The supply had a bug where it would power on whenever it was plugged in. I had the two blue and purple enable wires hanging out because one time it wouldn't power up.
It has failed and it sitting on my workbench waiting to be fixed.
What software do you use to draw the schematics? These schematics are so neat :)
Very helpful information
You videos are amazing and educative
5V is just for standby (like a PC Power supply) & 12V is the main power like in modern PCs = you can modify a PC Power supply for ther XBOX-360 ...
the manufacturer is E143709 = "Hipro"
Do you have a video explaining the different typologies of smps?
How can one tell if it's a fly-back topology?
Flyback supplies have a single diode on the output which directly charges a capacitor.
The tone of your voice reminds me of children who tattle on their classmates. Like "Ooooo you're in trouble", except you're tattling on companies "Ooooo you made a shitty rectifier".
hilarious :) He's got a fantastic accent, love it.
@@CheapCheerful Do you know what accent is it please?
4:15 Even his cat can smell an iron powder core inductor xD
I ended up with one of these, I cut off the big plug and added an Anderson power-pole connector.
It would be good if I can get a bit more that 12V out of it - 13.8 would be nice.
Me too! Im looking to step it up to 14VDCc to service my JLR Land Rover.
More videos.... Yes Please!! Love your channel..
Having no ground sucks, it could have one connected to the ouput negative.
Note: a forward or half bridge does not absolutely need an inductor, it can be rectified like ac 50hz out of an iron transformer. I made a halfbridge power supply using this topology, which is much easier because no feedback loop is needed, you have constant duty cycle.
@LabRat Knatz I don't think it has much of a positive effect on interference, as the Y1 caps to the output can still be used.
It just avoids leakage.
Please do a teardown of the transformer!
Not a big deal, but it is so strange to hear the console referred to as an XBox "three-hundred" sixty. For those not familiar with this product, Microsoft marketed/pronounced it as the Xbox three-sixty, at least in North America.
@@lindenhoch8396 Really? That's what you chose to reply to? While I wouldn't have made the comment is is still useful; it seems likely DGW has never heard it before.
I wanted you explained the apw7 12-1800 antminer power supply
do you still have the output cable or did you bin it?
If there are only two voltages to control (12V and 5VSB) why are there three optocouplers? If two of them are part of feedback control loop for two voltages, what’s the purpose of third one?
The third one might be a signal that is used to enable the circuitry for the main 12V supply.
I also have this kind of power supply but with 203 watts of power, 12V 16.5A one
man it is almost lack AT power supply
i think some were rated at 230 watt
also it might work as a good lead acid battery charger, say when battery is drained to 10.5 volts
There were several variations (203/175/150/130/115 watts), with the initial one requiring the most wattage, and as the 360 design was modified over time, the power consumption decreased.
Frequency modulation. That's interesting.
The diodegonewild manager is set. Can you explain the apparatus you use as a blind load? Can you explain the diagram of the drawing?
very well explained
If it was frequency modulated, shouldn't you have two inductors on the primary side? (to form an LLC circuit).
my PSU blew up component B8, I can't figure out which component it is, any help?
it's in the top right-hand corner at minute 9:30
it seems to be connected between the TNY276PN drain and the small transformer nearby
What is the grey goop holding the components (from vibration I assume). I am looking for a good product to do the same that is not caustic over time.... thx Dave
You could clean the power supply with isopropyl alcohol. Then it should work.
The core have a small gap in forward topology ;-)
Question, is the light supposed to be orange yes or no
Very interesting. I always thaught they were fly backs lol.
Niiiice analysed. 😉
I might have exactly same working power supply, will have a look in the shed. Also I'd like to send one from phat ps3, presumably working, if you're interested.
Have you ever done a pole to see what people would be interested in seeing I really want to see a vacuum tube Tesla coil because I have a power supply that should be able to power it it's from a 1 KW linear vacuum tube amplifier
Hey can you get this powersupply to vary from 1 volts to 12 volts
I wating for the next video with this power supply.
have one of these. always wanted to see a good tare down video of it,...
COOL mine is is different to this one.. but can't wait to see the next video on this.. : )
Xbox 360 psu is a weird atx psu with 12v and 5v standby, and enable, iirc 3.3v is generated internally within the console, they make great bench psu, thats a newer psu the original were 203w
7:30 fault indication, orange is standby, green is powered on, red is a psu fault
12:15 the consoles have additional regulation built in
Very good 👍 well done
''LEAVE IT FOR ANOTHER EPISODE' Aaaaaarrgghhhh!!!
That hurt.
I've recendly took a look in half bridge smps 12v 30a, and the output inductor was placed on the common GND rail at the output instead after the double rectification of the 12V. Does that sound normal to you guys?
What do the green color of the core on those common mode rejection inductors mean?
Hi Diode! I'm asking for a Spice simulation... Can you tell me what's that DCR and value of the PDC inductor? Thanks and bye!
Are you sure that's not the secondary on top with the primary hidden underneath ?
I think it's not. It seems like there's a plastic wall in the middle.
In next episode try to run it and full load test
Thanks for the vid man,
(dont try this at boys ) usually after 15 minutes my psu goes to red led and xbox shutdown, though when I keep a pc fan on the psu while its open/exposed it lasts for much longer, i guess small fan in the psu cant dissipate/exhaust enough heat, while the pc fan can due to the size difference and that the PSU exposed it allows for much more heat dissipation/cools the psu better.
I know i said that in a little confusing way but i hope this helps someone to figure out the problem faster.
maybe the internal fan is just full of dust.
Xbox 360 PSU is basically a throw-away item. Just buy a new one from local Charity store or even Ebay. I find many of them in hard-rubbish collection piles outside people's houses. Very few people play Xbox 360, it is so out pf date... so you can find complete consoles very cheap or free.
how to convert 110v to 220v of xbox360 power supply?
Thank you 💟💟💟
What a cliffhanger!
200-240v 47-62hz: So can this power supply safely work if i plug it to 2 phase 120vac 60hz?
Do you mean single phase 240V with center tap neutral (like most US households)? It should work with a 240V outlet, though in the US most such outlets require "funny" plugs.
@@Mueller3D Yes i was meaning 240 i made a typo and thanks for the info
New video you are best💪
Should have also put thanos
Is any way tweet it up from 12 volt to 13.8 volt I do run this XBOX supply on my Ham radio I just don't get the max output of my Ham Radio as it running on 12 volt.
Often there's a resistor divider circuit to provide the feedback, so adjusting the output just requires changing a resistor. We'll see in the next episode.
@@Mueller3D fingers crossed for the next episode
If "max output" of your ham radio is 100w like I suspect it is, you will never get anywhere close to the current you would need from this power supply. It takes a little over 20amps of current from the power supply to output 100w RF from a ham radio.
@@creepingmee no need for all these information as am radio amateur we know what we doing the radio are 13.8 volt 10 watts if you do the Formula 10 watts ÷ 13.8 volt = yes it not doing the 10 watts because the Xbox are 12 volt is just over 8½ watts Not all ham radios are 100 watts some goes from 5 to 200 watts.
I use.it.as.a.power supply for my lipo drone charger :)
What a cliffhanger...
I use these power supplys in projects and find that if I touch the out put they have what a "spiky" feel to them a bit like touching high voltage.
Will be curious to see the output.
Can anyone tell me can I use uc3843 ic instead of uc3844 ic
(Hint: look at the datasheet)
The 3843 will operate at lower voltages, so that isn't a problem. However the 3843 will go to 100% duty cycle while the 3844 will only go to 50% duty cycle. The increased duty cycle might cause core saturation and bad things could happen. It might just be unstable or it might fry some components (most likely the primary-side transistor). Then again it might work because the current sensing would try to compensate. If you don't mind breaking your device you could try the '43, otherwise try to find a '44 or '45.
@@eDoc2020 no no you may have seen the welding machine of diode gone wild if you see in the schematic you see at schematics there is 44 if I replace it with a 43 and since some components in the driving circuit handsome ho limit the duty cycle to 50% it might work but how i can limit the duty cycle?
I love xbox 360
doooodgeeee
Can you fix it and send it to me?
That high frequency transformer looks like it's made out of the same twisted strand "Angel hair" wire as the output transformer of my Panasonic inverter microwave oven. When I first saw this kind of winding, I was curious as to why it was made that way. Only later did I discover the reasoning behind it.
It will be interesting to see this thing working again, but from the metallic looking deposits (oyster shell appearance) it was powered up whilst flooded, and a lot of leakage current has occurred. I wonder just how much silicon has survived, and what's been cooked.
Not enough salt!
Niiiiceeeee!
FIX IT!
N9ice!
👍👍
Top!.
ubearable to listen.. sorry
In Europe, people don’t seem to be using consoles that much, instead investing in whatever PC hardware fits their needs. Not coumting handhelds, demos and shows, I have actually only seen people play on console once. It was in a children’s hospital where a computer could not be deployed as kids might mess with it or chew on wires. Yes, measures like wireless peripherals, a custom shell with child-focused UI or access-limiting OS setup are available but the facility wanted a quick and easy solution and bought a PS4. (Good for them, I would have done my best to circumvent the OS lockdown.) Evidence suggests that at least one other person in the Czech Republic owns a PS4 as some game disks were stolen from their cases.
Given how popular the Xbox is in the (mostly) American modding community, I would expect decent reverse-engineered documentation of the PSU online (at least the 110V version) but I can’t find any... Just an iFixit teardown and connector pinouts from people guiding how to power the Xbox using an ATX PSU.
Also, interesting to see that they used a separate yellow LED, rather than just mixing red and green, which are often seen on one package, and were common even in 2008.
In Germany I think console vs. PC is 50:50 and well balanced. For a hobby electronics engineer used XBox PSUs make for cheap bench power supplies using boost/buck regulators that can be digitally set up. You can get up to 32 volts and still enough amps to do some high power LED testing and of coursed 12V and downwards with stupidly high amperage.
Absolutely cannot understand what he’s saying lol I know it’s English but I just make out bits and pieces
:)
"Eks boks three hundred-sixty"
hey how it goin
Doing OK
@@Purple431 oh wait i thought it was a girl in the picture
haha
@@1marcelfilms 51MP moment.
@@plainedgedsaw1694 what?
you really need to do something about your pronunciation