What a ton of unvaluable knoledge is here in this video!!! Thank you so much!!!. Although i let this task to my reliable ford dealer, I now understand a lot of details. Thank you again. One little thing. I've seen you put a new Gates OEM belt and kit into the car. The dealer wanted to charge me 320 € only for the kit while original Gates one was online 110 €. Exactly same parts. That begins to be a scam. We rely both so i bought the parts and paid my dealer for everything else. Total was 530 € and made everyone happy.
Armed with your very detailed video I'm going to do my own, thanks for such a fine video. I'm a retired engineer and appreciate your time and effortless explanation.
You sir have reignighted my faith in decent human nature. What a pleasure to hear and watch a concise informative and frankly delihtfully entertaining as well as instructional piece of work. The editing and content is excellent down to the last detail. Power to you sir, from a delighted 70 year old retired man of the spanner world. Looking forward to your other videos. Cudoss
Absolutely invaluable video. I can’t thank you enough. I’m so impressed with the detail you put into it. With your help I changed the cambelt, tensioner, idler and water pump on a Fiesta 1.6TDCi without a hitch. Whilst there I did the fan belt and it’s tensioner too. On this model Fiesta there are some fiddly wires in a plastic casing across the lower cover and an extra cover over the lower pulley and fan belt, plus the airco pump, but aside from that everything was identical. Incidentally, on the Fiesta it’s easiest to simply pull off the bottom hose to drain the coolant. It all drops straight into a bucket from the other side of the car with zero splash and won’t soak the floor you have to lie on to do the job! 😊
Great video, very precise and detailed. I wouldn't dare to start because I'm just an amateur, it's a job that requires a lot of experience. How nice it would be if all car mechanics were this conscientious and precise, I need a mechanic like that too.
@@diydaly sorry to interrupt you on a Friday evening but I thought all C-max's had wet belts. Is there a way of knowing in advance of buying a C-max whether it's engine has a wet belt or not? I'm on the verge of buying one but I've had it drilled into me that the wet-belts will inevitably fail.
Great Video, as I'm in Norway I was quoted £1000.00 for the job. I'm on a British pension so i will now do it myself..your video will keep me right I'm sure..thanks,
PS I have now changed the cambelt on my C-MAX following your guidance, and has done 64,000 miles, and as it is 11 years old, and also changed alternator belt. I borrowed a high impact wrench from a garage to tighten the crankshaft bolt and the mechanic advised also putting some locktight on the threads. The 2009 Ford Focus Estate 1.6 cambelt was changed at 98,000 and 165,000 and at 213,000 miles is still going. strong. Many thanks again. Pat
Excellent video,one of the best I’ve seen. Just this, there is a drain plug for the coolant on the back of the engine,a plastic plug with a locking clip, I drain the coolant there. And you mentioned it, but I mark the old belt with paint marker,and copy paste this on the new belt, it gives confidence that everything is timed correctly. But hey, great job!
@@diydaly Wow what can I say, I have seen many a video of different people changing timing belts on different cars, but I must say this is one of the finest videos I have ever seen, because you explained everything as you were going along and camera work was top class, you didn't leave anything out and so easy to follow you, absolutely brilliant video and well done and a pleasure to watch, cheers and have a good 2024,
I needed to change the cambelt on a Volvo S40 1.6 diesel which shares the same engine. There are lots of videos about this job, yours is the best, so well filmed and explained. Your narrative is excellent. Whilst down there so to speak, I discovered a leaky crankshaft seal which I changed. I've yet to do the dreaded engine start, but I've no concerns because I watched your video. Torque settings list very useful. Cheers!
Thank you very much for this excellent video! I changed the timing belt on my 2012 Focus today and followed your instructions. Everything worked exactly as explained :)
@@geraldjones6246 I borrowed a strong impact driver from a friend, worked like a charm. Otherwise you could use a flywheel locking tool as mentioned in the video
Spot on with the guide. Nice and easy to follow. Did mine a couple of weeks ago and set the tensioner dead centre, after the rotations by hand it had crept up slightly but barely noticeable. Had a whine when the revs increase ever since. Hoping it'll disappear eventually, struggle to believe the belt is over tensioned. Had it before when I did a 1.7 DTI astra and it eventually disappeared 🤞
The best video on youtube exellentl.,well explained through out any novice could tackle the job because the tips you give would give anyone the confidence.I am a retired H G V and car mechanic so i have the experience and knowledge to give you top marks for the best explained video.👌👌.
Thank you for the video! It opened my eyes - I was looking at Ford Tourneo Connect, Citron and Peugeot mini vans, however, after seeing your video, I changed my mind...
I’m doing my transit connect in the coming weeks. Thank you for the excellent detailed video. This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen for a timing belt job.
Absolutely brilliant video.This is the perfect example of how a youtube video should be produced. so many awful videos on here nowadays. I have been a mechanic and MOT tester for many years but always good to take a look at these videos If I'm working on something for the first time. Thank you and well done.
The best tutorial !!! Great camera views, excellent explanations. Even if I'm afraid to do it to my Focus 1.6 tdci i have learnt a lot. Thanks and greetings form Italy
Cracking video - clear commentary and instructions - great camera work and capture of the essential details. Appreciate your time and effort in creating this content - thank you. New sub 😉
Great video! It looks exactly the same as when I did it on my Peugeot 206 1.4 HDI. It is not too difficult and I am now happy to do it on my Focus. Thanks!!
Thank you for a great video. I have done the same cam belt change twice on my 2009 Ford focus 1.6 diesel following the Haynes manual and Autodata 2010 book. I had removed the wiper blades and the drainage area below to improve access and even loosened the LHS engine mount to raise the engine to get a better view of the tensioner. Looking at your video it makes me realize that the job is much simpler than I made it and my current 2012 Ford C-MAX is a much tighter space than the Ford Focus I worked on previously. I have the locking pin for the flywheel and used it on the earlier Ford Focus with a friend turning the crankshaft to find the point where the pin located in the flywheel. I was a bit thrown in the video where you pointed to the area below the starter and the plastic cover. Did you mean that the flywheel locking tool mentioned in your link is to be used by removing the starter and fixing it there? I have looked at another UA-cam video to change the starter and this requires an awful amount of work removing the battery etc to gain access to the bolts holding it and the working area looks very tight, and the access from below to remove further bolts. I suppose the shorter part of what I would like to say is please add in the video that it is quite OK to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt using a Powerful impact gun and perhaps a check could be made on the advised rotation of 190 degrees by putting tipex Mark on flywheel pulley and bolt at beginning of tightening and see where the bolt has rotated to after using the impact wrench. On my previous belt changes I did use the pin locking tool into the flywheel and found that turning through 30Nm +180 degree as in Autodata book needed a massive extension on my bar to achieve this angle. Does this pin locking point on the flywheel still exist on the 2012 C-MAX Once again great credit to you for sharing your knowledge and fantastic clearly explained video. Pat O'Brien
Ti ringrazio moltissimo per il video, uno dei migliori.devo fare lo stesso lavoro sulla mia focus ed è una guida utile che mi ha dato molte indicazioni importanti.👍
Great video, just resealing the cam carrier so time to do the belt, very clear and great video BTW, super clear and easy to follow, thank you very much 👍👍 cam carrier oil leak, I think I took 15 parts off before I got anywhere I needed to be!!! What a crazy design!!! 😳 Deffo not for the feint hearted!!! Wasn't sure about the timing etc, but you explained it so well!!! 👌👌👍👍
Hello when you look at the fuel pump especially the locking tool there is quite a lot of play between the two knuckles sometimes one knuckle is closer to the hole sometimes in the middle so my question is do the knuckles have to be exact so that the locking tool is between the knuckles or it doesn't matter where the knuckles are as long as it is in that place
Very informative thank you very much am waiting for the parts ! I wonder this was the watterpump was seased and the timing belt jumped. I wonder if the rocker arms are damaged, will get the timing belt fixed time the engin hope every thing is ok
Excellent video, very easy to follow and has given me the confidence to change mine. I have one question that I'm hoping you may be able to answer. I need to change the crankshaft oil seal too. Is it a case of once the cambelt has been removed, just pulling the bottom pulley off of the crankshaft and replacing the seal, or is it more involved than that?
Great video. I followed it for changing the belt in my b max 1600tdi but two strange things happened but do not know if I should continue rebuilding the eng at the moment, . 1 when I removed the pin in the fuel pump wheel, the backplate spun upwards such that the locating hole was not visible. 2.After adjusting the tensioner so that the locating pin was in the middle of the rear plate, after rotating the crankshaft two turns the tensioner are with the hole dropped back down to the untensioned position. Any feedback on these issues would be very much appreciated.??? I have been told that it is easy to wreck these engines if the timing is not correct. Many thanks, .
Yes hard to say without seeing it but it’s quite normal for the fuel pump to move.. just make sure it’s in the correct position when the belts on.. and same for the tensioner it will move when the belts turned .. it’s just imperative that it was in the correct position when you tightened the nut
Doing this to my 2010 Zetec S Fiesta TDCI soon! However, I have a high pitched squel/whine coming from what appears to be the HPFP, I hope its not but it sounds like its coming from that area. Don't suppose you have a video showing how to change the HPFP on these duratorqs? Also, cracking video and really detailed. Subscribed!
Congratulations for your explanation! 💪 I'm Italian, but with the translator I understood everything and I think I'll change the belt on my Ford Ecosport 1.5 TDCI, which should be the same. Crankshaft pulley bolt, should it be tightened only 35 nm? Thanks
nice instructive video. When you tension the belt, would you move the bit with the hole round to where in lines up in between and reinsert the pin and then do the nut up? instead of trying to hold it in place ?
Hey, I have same engine , my car died while driving, some teeth of the belt got stripped, I changed the timing kit same as you, but car does not start. You have any tips ? Your video was so helpfull
When you said you are taking the cam pulley off with an impact driver I was like there is no way a 1/4 hex bit will undo that, but then I realised you meant an impact wrench lol 😄
Haha I have a few different names for them! Just comes out naturally sometimes without realising what I’ve said 🤣 off camera I just call it the buzz gun 🤣
Great video, it's given me the confidence to have a go myself. Just out of interest, how long does a job like this take you if you weren't filming every step? I'll just double that ;-)
Hi,do I have to push the belt all the way towards the engine on insulation. My belt is out of line a little and close to the timing cover I need some advice. Amazing video by the way.
it will normally sit in a certain position, not normally all the way on but it shouldn't be riding off the edge, you can sometimes see the markings on the cam pulley where the old belt was running
I replaced ford 1.5 tdci timing belt at 90k kms,9 years, on removal belt has started devolping cracks. I have used INA timing tensionar and INA Idler pulley and Gates belt in ford packing... Now, I found the Idler pulley that I used is having a diameter of 60 mm instead of 61 mm. As old one having a diameter of 61 mm. Now ,I found in Ford 1.4 tdci Idler is having 60 mm diameter, in ford 1.5 tdci it has 61 mm diameter. So,anything to worry about as I have used 60 mm instead of 61 mm? Or this is only a slightly variation which can be neglected?
THX FOR THE BEST VIDEO FOR THIS JOB!!! helped me big time! ..locking tool is not fitting where you showed. i think you ve to dismantle the starter motor(like the 2,0 tdci), but thats a pain in the ass cuse it´s on the back of the engine(1,6 tdci 2011 T1WB). ..anyway 5 gear and step on the break, battery impact wrench. job done ...cheers and love from austria
Is it normal to lose coolant a lot of coolant after a cambelt change? If not ran after doing the job? What damage will it of caused to the engine if ran with no coolant in reservoir for 300 miles but temp gauge inside of car not going above half way?
If it hasn’t overheated it will be ok , it’s possible it may have been airlocked and the level may drop if so but once topped up it shouldn’t keep loosing coolant
Is there a special way to remove the bottom timing pulley with the crank angle sensor ring? I've got a badly leaking seal and need to change it but I've watched over 10 videos and no one replaces it 🤷♂️ is there a special trick to it or just use a puller or pry from behind? I'm hoping you can help. Thank you in advance
When locking the fuel pump it is possible to lock it 180 degrees out as there are 2 locking tabs opposite each other. Does this matter? My belt broke , so not sure which locking tab to use.
Great video, got this job on this weekend with a 508 I've just brought. It's an semi-automatic though, normally I just stick a manual in 6th and get someone to stand on the brakes as I tighten the crank pulley bolt but obviously I can't do this, have you any idea where I get access to the flywheel on this engine so I can jam a big strong screwdriver in there? I know where the flywheel locking hole is but don't want to do it just on the locking pin. Thanks for good tutorial really helpful.
Thanks ! glad it will help . im not sure without looking tbh mate, be handy is you could access a buzz gun, makes easy work of it 👍 yeah I wouldn't advise using the pin either
@@diydaly no worries I found it round by the starter, I've a Poundland impact gun you plug in to the mains so no issues getting the bolt loose it's getting it tightened up again cos the gun is just full forward or full reverse and it's a brute lol did it yesterday anyway timing was one tooth out so I realigned the crank and it seems to be running ok. Fingers crossed it's stays that way and I don't loose my pulley in foot down Friday 🤣
I noticed you kept mentioning the fuel pump? Is it a diesel engine? The cmax wasn't sold with a diesel engine here in the United States, great video by the way, cheers!
So, I have this exact model and engine, 2014 plate so it's timing belt time in 2024. Car has done 121,000 miles so I've got some time booked off work to do timing and aux belt. Just going to ask, it's a great video but is there any points of note to look out for when doing this? It's gonna be first ever timing belt change (done some other bits and bobs to car, changed suspension arms, brake discs and pads, that sorta thing) and I want to make sure it's a job done right. Also, is this doable and not much more challenging with jack and axle stands as I'll be aiming to do it on the drive?
Not bad to do on the drive tbh but it is fairly involved if you’ve only done basic work before , obviously is not done right if can cause major engine issues
@@diydalyHello again mate. So I decided to put on the big boy pants and get round to sorting this on the drive. All in all, zero issues. Followed your guide to the letter and it was surprisingly simple. Was absolutely dreading firing it back up bit started straight away. Opted to change alternator and aux belt / tensioner when I was down there and there's been a dramatic drop in noise from driver side of the engine bay since, it was making a slight whining noise before. Cambelt was still in surprisingly good nick. So I'd like to say thanks for the excellent guide. Next step for me with this renewed confidence is clutch change. 😅 You got any videos on that?
Great video. I’ve just replaced the timing belt on my 1.6 hdi. I made sure all the slack was on the tensioner side and that the tensioner was set in the middle. When the cars been sat over night the belt seems to go a little slack between the high pressure pump and cam pully, not stupidly slack but has about 10mm deflection up and down. As soon as I fire the engine the slack disappears I assume when the tensioner has kicked in. Just wondered if this is normal for these engines? Cheers
Hi Chris , 10mm does sound alot but it is quite a distance so may be normal , hard to say without seeing it really , If everything’s lining up correctly And the tensioners set right you shouldn’t have a Lmt issues 👍
Thanks for your reply mate. Measured the deflection last night with a ruler and it’s probably more like 5mm all marks were bang on and tensioner done up to 30nm I used the pins and tensioner was spot on so probably just me being paranoid. I’m not used to these sprung tensioners, prefer the old solid ones like the 2.0 hdi’s used to have.
Definitely, especially when your not used to doing them all the time haha. Thanks for taking the time to reply it’s really appreciated. Keep up the good work on the videos they are spot on 👍🏻
What a ton of unvaluable knoledge is here in this video!!! Thank you so much!!!. Although i let this task to my reliable ford dealer, I now understand a lot of details. Thank you again.
One little thing. I've seen you put a new Gates OEM belt and kit into the car. The dealer wanted to charge me 320 € only for the kit while original Gates one was online 110 €. Exactly same parts. That begins to be a scam. We rely both so i bought the parts and paid my dealer for everything else. Total was 530 € and made everyone happy.
👍👍 glad to hear it
Armed with your very detailed video I'm going to do my own, thanks for such a fine video. I'm a retired engineer and appreciate your time and effortless explanation.
You sir have reignighted my faith in decent human nature. What a pleasure to hear and watch a concise informative and frankly delihtfully entertaining as well as instructional piece of work. The editing and content is excellent down to the last detail. Power to you sir, from a delighted 70 year old retired man of the spanner world. Looking forward to your other videos. Cudoss
Today I replaced the timing belt on my Ford Cmax following this tutorial and I have to say it's great, thanks a lot for sharing.😜
Absolutely invaluable video. I can’t thank you enough. I’m so impressed with the detail you put into it.
With your help I changed the cambelt, tensioner, idler and water pump on a Fiesta 1.6TDCi without a hitch. Whilst there I did the fan belt and it’s tensioner too. On this model Fiesta there are some fiddly wires in a plastic casing across the lower cover and an extra cover over the lower pulley and fan belt, plus the airco pump, but aside from that everything was identical. Incidentally, on the Fiesta it’s easiest to simply pull off the bottom hose to drain the coolant. It all drops straight into a bucket from the other side of the car with zero splash and won’t soak the floor you have to lie on to do the job! 😊
👍👍 nice one glad to hear it!! Thanks for the comments 😃
Great video, very precise and detailed. I wouldn't dare to start because I'm just an amateur, it's a job that requires a lot of experience. How nice it would be if all car mechanics were this conscientious and precise, I need a mechanic like that too.
Thanks for watching!
@@diydaly sorry to interrupt you on a Friday evening but I thought all C-max's had wet belts. Is there a way of knowing in advance of buying a C-max whether it's engine has a wet belt or not? I'm on the verge of buying one but I've had it drilled into me that the wet-belts will inevitably fail.
@ this is a diesel mate , the petrols are likely to be a Wetbelt engine , you just need to know the engine code
Great Video, as I'm in Norway I was quoted £1000.00 for the job. I'm on a British pension so i will now do it myself..your video will keep me right I'm sure..thanks,
You can do it! 👍👍
PS
I have now changed the cambelt on my C-MAX following your guidance, and has done 64,000 miles, and as it is 11 years old, and also changed alternator belt.
I borrowed a high impact wrench from a garage to tighten the crankshaft bolt and the mechanic advised also putting some locktight on the threads.
The 2009 Ford Focus Estate 1.6 cambelt was changed at 98,000 and 165,000 and at 213,000 miles is still going. strong.
Many thanks again.
Pat
👍 glad to hear it
Excellent video,one of the best I’ve seen. Just this, there is a drain plug for the coolant on the back of the engine,a plastic plug with a locking clip, I drain the coolant there. And you mentioned it, but I mark the old belt with paint marker,and copy paste this on the new belt, it gives confidence that everything is timed correctly. But hey, great job!
Thanks for the comments and tip about the plug.. not a bad idea marking the old belt and transferring it over! Like you say it’s a nice reassurance 👌👍
@@diydaly Wow what can I say, I have seen many a video of different people changing timing belts on different cars, but I must say this is one of the finest videos I have ever seen, because you explained everything as you were going along and camera work was top class, you didn't leave anything out and so easy to follow you, absolutely brilliant video and well done and a pleasure to watch, cheers and have a good 2024,
@@roisindonoghue4304 thanks ! Makes it all worth while hearing feedback like this! 😁
Ich kann zwar kein Englisch, aber diese Video ist perfekt. Und der Mechaniker macht einen super Job.
👍👍
I needed to change the cambelt on a Volvo S40 1.6 diesel which shares the same engine. There are lots of videos about this job, yours is the best, so well filmed and explained. Your narrative is excellent. Whilst down there so to speak, I discovered a leaky crankshaft seal which I changed. I've yet to do the dreaded engine start, but I've no concerns because I watched your video. Torque settings list very useful. Cheers!
Glad it helped, thanks for the comment 😁
Great mechanic. We need more of you than fake click baits
Thank you very much for this excellent video! I changed the timing belt on my 2012 Focus today and followed your instructions. Everything worked exactly as explained :)
nice one, glad to hear it helped! 👍👍
how did you get the crankshaft bolt of.?
@@geraldjones6246 I borrowed a strong impact driver from a friend, worked like a charm. Otherwise you could use a flywheel locking tool as mentioned in the video
Spot on with the guide. Nice and easy to follow. Did mine a couple of weeks ago and set the tensioner dead centre, after the rotations by hand it had crept up slightly but barely noticeable. Had a whine when the revs increase ever since. Hoping it'll disappear eventually, struggle to believe the belt is over tensioned. Had it before when I did a 1.7 DTI astra and it eventually disappeared 🤞
👍👍🙌 thanks for the comment
The best video on youtube exellentl.,well explained through out any novice could tackle the job because the tips you give would give anyone the confidence.I am a retired H G V and car mechanic so i have the experience and knowledge to give you top marks for the best explained video.👌👌.
Thanks! your comment / feedback is much appreciated! glad it will help out 👍
Thank you for the video! It opened my eyes - I was looking at Ford Tourneo Connect, Citron and Peugeot mini vans, however, after seeing your video, I changed my mind...
👍👍
I’m doing my transit connect in the coming weeks. Thank you for the excellent detailed video. This is one of the best videos I’ve ever seen for a timing belt job.
Nice one , glad it will help .. thanks for the comment 👍
Absolutely brilliant video.This is the perfect example of how a youtube video should be produced. so many awful videos on here nowadays. I have been a mechanic and MOT tester for many years but always good to take a look at these videos If I'm working on something for the first time. Thank you and well done.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the comments! Makes it all worth while 😁
Cel mai explicit video de pe UA-cam !👍
Good video. I've done one of these belts before, but wish I had seen this first as it shows great detail.
The best tutorial !!! Great camera views, excellent explanations. Even if I'm afraid to do it to my Focus 1.6 tdci i have learnt a lot. Thanks and greetings form Italy
👍👍 thanks for the comments, glad you enjoyed it
Cracking video - clear commentary and instructions - great camera work and capture of the essential details. Appreciate your time and effort in creating this content - thank you. New sub 😉
Nice one , thanks for the sub👍 always nice to hear positive feedback 👌
Przydatny, szczegółowy poradnik👍
Absolutely brilliant video pal. You gave me the knowledge to do it myself. All went spot on. Transit connect 2014 mk2. Keep up the good work 👍
Nice one , glad it will help 👍👍
Brilliant video. The most comprehensive one I've ever seen for this engine. Thanks
👍👍 thanks , your comment is much appreciated 😁
This video was excellent. Step by step and very clear, with all the supporting information included in the notes. Thank you
You're very welcome! 🙌
Absolutely professional I like your videos tanks soo much from Spain
Thank you very much!
Great video! It looks exactly the same as when I did it on my Peugeot 206 1.4 HDI. It is not too difficult and I am now happy to do it on my Focus. Thanks!!
Thanks! yeah its near enough the same 👍
Best video I've seen in ages. Excellent job.
Glad you enjoyed it!
I’m late to the party here however your tutorial is bang on!
Thanks rob! Nice to hear your feedback! 👌👍
Best explained detailed video on cambelt iv seen. Keep it up your the mate.
Your comment is Much appreciated! thanks 👍👍
Another really helpful video with really clear, well explained instructions - cheers 👍👍
👍👍 thanks 🙌
as others have said thank you nice clear video i used it to change cambelt on my focus today
Glad it helped! Thanks for the comment
Great video thanks started this job tonight after belt teeth went this morning. Probably have to have the head off
Thanks .. arr noo thats not good 😖😖
Excellent video. Followed everything the way you done it. You've saved me a couple of hundred quid, many thanks
Nice one , glad to hear it helped you 👍👌
Splendidly done, squire and great photography in a Very confined area!
208 1.4 even worse! 😂
😂👍👍 thanks
Loved the detail and time you took in this video, brilliant 👍🤣
Thanks 👍
good job boy professionnal english man thanks a lot
You are welcome
Thank you for a great video.
I have done the same cam belt change twice on my 2009 Ford focus 1.6 diesel following the Haynes manual and Autodata 2010 book. I had removed the wiper blades and the drainage area below to improve access and even loosened the LHS engine mount to raise the engine to get a better view of the tensioner. Looking at your video it makes me realize that the job is much simpler than I made it and my current 2012 Ford C-MAX is a much tighter space than the Ford Focus I worked on previously.
I have the locking pin for the flywheel and used it on the earlier Ford Focus with a friend turning the crankshaft to find the point where the pin located in the flywheel.
I was a bit thrown in the video where you pointed to the area below the starter and the plastic cover. Did you mean that the flywheel locking tool mentioned in your link is to be used by removing the starter and fixing it there? I have looked at another UA-cam video to change the starter and this requires an awful amount of work removing the battery etc to gain access to the bolts holding it and the working area looks very tight, and the access from below to remove further bolts.
I suppose the shorter part of what I would like to say is please add in the video that it is quite OK to tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt using a Powerful impact gun and perhaps a check could be made on the advised rotation of 190 degrees by putting tipex Mark on flywheel pulley and bolt at beginning of tightening and see where the bolt has rotated to after using the impact wrench.
On my previous belt changes I did use the pin locking tool into the flywheel and found that turning through 30Nm +180 degree as in Autodata book needed a massive extension on my bar to achieve this angle.
Does this pin locking point on the flywheel still exist on the 2012 C-MAX
Once again great credit to you for sharing your knowledge and fantastic clearly explained video.
Pat O'Brien
👍👍👍 thanks
Ti ringrazio moltissimo per il video, uno dei migliori.devo fare lo stesso lavoro sulla mia focus ed è una guida utile che mi ha dato molte indicazioni importanti.👍
glad it helps, thanks for the comment 👍
Great video, just resealing the cam carrier so time to do the belt, very clear and great video BTW, super clear and easy to follow, thank you very much 👍👍 cam carrier oil leak, I think I took 15 parts off before I got anywhere I needed to be!!! What a crazy design!!! 😳 Deffo not for the feint hearted!!! Wasn't sure about the timing etc, but you explained it so well!!! 👌👌👍👍
thanks for the comments! much appreciated 😃👌 glad it helped 👍
@@diydaly it's just a shame it's made by citroën/Peugeot, now I know why the whole thing is over complicated!!! 😂
@@moosecake30 haha yeah thats about right!
Very concise instruction and excellent videography.
Thank you kindly!
Almost made that look too easy, be running yourself out of business 😂 thanks for the excellent instructions! 🤙🏻
Thanks for the comment , glad to help 👌👍
Hello when you look at the fuel pump especially the locking tool there is quite a lot of play between the two knuckles sometimes one knuckle is closer to the hole sometimes in the middle so my question is do the knuckles have to be exact so that the locking tool is between the knuckles or it doesn't matter where the knuckles are as long as it is in that place
Anywhere in that gap is fine mate 👍
First class tutorial, clear with main points emphasised. Good filming helped. ta.
👍👍 thanks for the comment
Very informative thank you very much am waiting for the parts ! I wonder this was the watterpump was seased and the timing belt jumped. I
wonder if the rocker arms are damaged, will get the timing belt fixed time the engin hope every thing is ok
👍👍
Excellent video, very easy to follow and has given me the confidence to change mine. I have one question that I'm hoping you may be able to answer. I need to change the crankshaft oil seal too. Is it a case of once the cambelt has been removed, just pulling the bottom pulley off of the crankshaft and replacing the seal, or is it more involved than that?
Yeah there not bad to do one the belt is off, you’ll just need to remove the bottom pulley the you can access it
That's great, thankyou
Great video, thank you. Just done same job on 2013 Mazda 3 1.6 diesel, your video very helpful.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the comment 👌👍
Great video, I did my Ford Fiesta econetic cambelt and Water pump following this video. Great work mate and thank you 😍👍🏼
Glad it helped! 👍👍
Great video. I followed it for changing the belt in my b max 1600tdi but two strange things happened but do not know if I should continue rebuilding the eng at the moment,
. 1 when I removed the pin in the fuel pump wheel, the backplate spun upwards such that the locating hole was not visible. 2.After adjusting the tensioner so that the locating pin was in the middle of the rear plate, after rotating the crankshaft two turns the tensioner are with the hole dropped back down to the untensioned position. Any feedback on these issues would be very much appreciated.??? I have been told that it is easy to wreck these engines if the timing is not correct. Many thanks,
.
Yes hard to say without seeing it but it’s quite normal for the fuel pump to move.. just make sure it’s in the correct position when the belts on.. and same for the tensioner it will move when the belts turned .. it’s just imperative that it was in the correct position when you tightened the nut
Outstanding instructions! And you have to know, I'm Swedish and not used to that lingo ;-)!😅
Thanks! 😃 positive feedback always appreciated 👍👍
Doing this to my 2010 Zetec S Fiesta TDCI soon! However, I have a high pitched squel/whine coming from what appears to be the HPFP, I hope its not but it sounds like its coming from that area. Don't suppose you have a video showing how to change the HPFP on these duratorqs? Also, cracking video and really detailed. Subscribed!
Thanks! No I’m afraid not , hopefully I’ll chance in the future!
Thank you so much for this video! Now I feel well prepared for this.
You're very welcome!
Thankyou for this video bud this has just helped me out loads through the day today 👍
Glad it helped👍👍
just watched. excellent clear and precise video. Doing mine soon.
👌👍 glad it will help
Great video! Everything clearly explained and super camera work. Going to do mine tommorow.
Nice one , thanks! Feedback always appreciated 😁
How did it go .
@@patrickkparrker413 Hi. No problems at all. Took about three hours to do with no rushing.
@@iwadrian Just found out why my traction light stays on , steering sensor behind the steering wheel .
@@patrickkparrker413 I had same problem with my audi A4, years ago.
Very well demonstrated mate, same job on a 2016 transit connect also
👍👍 thanks mate
Congratulations for your explanation! 💪
I'm Italian, but with the translator I understood everything and I think I'll change the belt on my Ford Ecosport 1.5 TDCI, which should be the same.
Crankshaft pulley bolt, should it be tightened only 35 nm?
Thanks
nice instructive video. When you tension the belt, would you move the bit with the hole round to where in lines up in between and reinsert the pin and then do the nut up? instead of trying to hold it in place ?
Thanks , no always just hold it in place with the Allen key mate 👍
Great video 👍 mine is the auto powershift on my Volvo , do i just leave it in park or neutral 🤷🏼♂️ when undoing crank bolt ? Cheers
But the foot on the brake or lock the brake disc , will be a lot easier if you can get a buzz gun
Your video’s are fantastic thanks for taking the time to share them
Regards Eric
Glad you like them , thanks for the comment, much appreciated as a small YT channel! 👌👍😁
I don't understand what the point of blocking the flywheel is, can it be done differently without blocking it?
Excellent video Gav - you make it look easy !!!
Thanks for the comment!👍😃 lol not bad once you've done a few
Hey, I have same engine , my car died while driving, some teeth of the belt got stripped, I changed the timing kit same as you, but car does not start. You have any tips ? Your video was so helpfull
the valves will have hit & be damaged mate , you can't just fit a belt after that im afraid
When you said you are taking the cam pulley off with an impact driver I was like there is no way a 1/4 hex bit will undo that, but then I realised you meant an impact wrench lol 😄
Haha I have a few different names for them! Just comes out naturally sometimes without realising what I’ve said 🤣 off camera I just call it the buzz gun 🤣
Great video, it's given me the confidence to have a go myself. Just out of interest, how long does a job like this take you if you weren't filming every step? I'll just double that ;-)
Id say 2.5 - 3 hours.. having a go yourself id say exact around 4 hours area 👍
Nice ,very good demonstration
Like a pro I love it.
Thanks
Thanks , appreciate the comment 👍👍
Great job. Very easy to do when looking how you work. Does 1.5 tdci/hdi have any different timing system?
Thanks for the comment!😃👍👌. the 1.5 is also the same 👍
Did you rotate the high pressure fuel pump to get the drill bit dead in the centre or just pin it as it was? I’m confused
If it’s timed up correctly it should line up when the cam / crank are in place .. if not just turn it into position
What a fantastic video fella well done, best ive seen
Glad you enjoyed it , thanks for the comment
Hi,do I have to push the belt all the way towards the engine on insulation.
My belt is out of line a little and close to the timing cover I need some advice. Amazing video by the way.
it will normally sit in a certain position, not normally all the way on but it shouldn't be riding off the edge, you can sometimes see the markings on the cam pulley where the old belt was running
Great easy to follow video. Many thanks
Thanks 👍👍
I replaced ford 1.5 tdci timing belt at 90k kms,9 years, on removal belt has started devolping cracks.
I have used INA timing tensionar and INA Idler pulley and Gates belt in ford packing...
Now, I found the Idler pulley that I used is having a diameter of 60 mm instead of 61 mm. As old one having a diameter of 61 mm.
Now ,I found in Ford 1.4 tdci Idler is having 60 mm diameter, in ford 1.5 tdci it has 61 mm diameter.
So,anything to worry about as I have used 60 mm instead of 61 mm? Or this is only a slightly variation which can be neglected?
THX FOR THE BEST VIDEO FOR THIS JOB!!! helped me big time! ..locking tool is not fitting where you showed. i think you ve to dismantle the starter motor(like the 2,0 tdci), but thats a pain in the ass cuse it´s on the back of the engine(1,6 tdci 2011 T1WB). ..anyway 5 gear and step on the break, battery impact wrench. job done ...cheers and love from austria
👍
great job doing mine soon you did not mark the fuel pump pully ?
Didn’t need to as it’s pinned up mate , there’s a locator for it
Cracking video best I've seen thanks
Glad you enjoyed it 👍
Is it normal to lose coolant a lot of coolant after a cambelt change? If not ran after doing the job? What damage will it of caused to the engine if ran with no coolant in reservoir for 300 miles but temp gauge inside of car not going above half way?
If it hasn’t overheated it will be ok , it’s possible it may have been airlocked and the level may drop if so but once topped up it shouldn’t keep loosing coolant
Is there a special way to remove the bottom timing pulley with the crank angle sensor ring? I've got a badly leaking seal and need to change it but I've watched over 10 videos and no one replaces it 🤷♂️ is there a special trick to it or just use a puller or pry from behind? I'm hoping you can help. Thank you in advance
No it should just come off mate , might need a gentle tap to crack it off
How do I block the pulley for torquing up the new bolt?
When locking the fuel pump it is possible to lock it 180 degrees out as there are 2 locking tabs opposite each other. Does this matter? My belt broke , so not sure which locking tab to use.
the correct one should look the same as in this video
What's the recommended timing belt interval change on these as im hearing 125k and 100k..
Personally I’d always go with 100k
Great video, got this job on this weekend with a 508 I've just brought. It's an semi-automatic though, normally I just stick a manual in 6th and get someone to stand on the brakes as I tighten the crank pulley bolt but obviously I can't do this, have you any idea where I get access to the flywheel on this engine so I can jam a big strong screwdriver in there? I know where the flywheel locking hole is but don't want to do it just on the locking pin. Thanks for good tutorial really helpful.
Thanks ! glad it will help . im not sure without looking tbh mate, be handy is you could access a buzz gun, makes easy work of it 👍 yeah I wouldn't advise using the pin either
@@diydaly no worries I found it round by the starter, I've a Poundland impact gun you plug in to the mains so no issues getting the bolt loose it's getting it tightened up again cos the gun is just full forward or full reverse and it's a brute lol did it yesterday anyway timing was one tooth out so I realigned the crank and it seems to be running ok. Fingers crossed it's stays that way and I don't loose my pulley in foot down Friday 🤣
@@76cribs19 haha! Nice one .. hopefully so 👍👍
Great video, well explained with good camera work. Is the 1.6 petrol the same ? I know the 1.0 ecoboost has the dreaded wetbelt.
Thanks, the petrols quite different mate
I noticed you kept mentioning the fuel pump? Is it a diesel engine? The cmax wasn't sold with a diesel engine here in the United States, great video by the way, cheers!
Thanks , yeah it’s a diesel 👍
Thanks for the video , again spot on great tutorial , great guide for home mechanic , 👍😊 please keep making videos , from Tony from bedfordshire ,
Thanks Tony! you comments much appreciated! 😃 there will be plenty more to follow 👍👌
How many hours of work does it take approximately?
3-4 hours
dude, great editing...
So is there a bit of wiggle room with the pump pulley, im doing mine atm and its not bang on the whole? Its a 2010 1.4 tdci
Yeah 👍 it’s usually about 2 teeth wide , I just try out it out in the same spot it was
So, I have this exact model and engine, 2014 plate so it's timing belt time in 2024. Car has done 121,000 miles so I've got some time booked off work to do timing and aux belt. Just going to ask, it's a great video but is there any points of note to look out for when doing this? It's gonna be first ever timing belt change (done some other bits and bobs to car, changed suspension arms, brake discs and pads, that sorta thing) and I want to make sure it's a job done right. Also, is this doable and not much more challenging with jack and axle stands as I'll be aiming to do it on the drive?
Not bad to do on the drive tbh but it is fairly involved if you’ve only done basic work before , obviously is not done right if can cause major engine issues
@@diydalyHello again mate. So I decided to put on the big boy pants and get round to sorting this on the drive. All in all, zero issues. Followed your guide to the letter and it was surprisingly simple. Was absolutely dreading firing it back up bit started straight away. Opted to change alternator and aux belt / tensioner when I was down there and there's been a dramatic drop in noise from driver side of the engine bay since, it was making a slight whining noise before. Cambelt was still in surprisingly good nick. So I'd like to say thanks for the excellent guide. Next step for me with this renewed confidence is clutch change. 😅 You got any videos on that?
I have Mazda 3 1.6 diesel 115 hp. Is the procedure same? Thanks
It should be mate
Hi, does the flywheel locking tool, that you show in the video fit Ford Focus 3 1.6tdci 115hp 2014?
I’m fairly sure it will mate
WHAT DID YOU USE AS ADHESIVE FOR THE WATER PUMP GASKET? AND HOW MUCH TORQUE DO YOU TIGHTEN THE WATER PUMP SCREWS?
Will of been silicone sealant , I’ve got the torque settings in the description
Is this the same process for 1.5 tdci?
Thanks
Yeah it’s the same mate
@@diydaly much appreciated 👍
Wanting to do this myself but my driveway is sloped do you think that would be a problem, cheers
no that'll be fine mate
@@diydaly figured long as my car is in gear I’m fine lol, sorry daft question I’m still an apprentice
@@msmith1304 👍👍
Hi one question what happen if I not locking the fly Wheel on the gear box can change the belt than?
yeah you can just mark the pulley if need be
Great video 👍🏼 what’s the water pump bolt torque settings?
I should have it listed in the description mate
@@diydalywell I’m afraid you don’t.
@@rhendry5832 10nm
@@diydaly thank you 👍🏼
Thanks for video!
It really helped me
Glad to hear that! Thanks for the comment
Teşekkürler büyük usta türkiye den selamlar.
👍👍
Great video. I’ve just replaced the timing belt on my 1.6 hdi. I made sure all the slack was on the tensioner side and that the tensioner was set in the middle. When the cars been sat over night the belt seems to go a little slack between the high pressure pump and cam pully, not stupidly slack but has about 10mm deflection up and down. As soon as I fire the engine the slack disappears I assume when the tensioner has kicked in. Just wondered if this is normal for these engines? Cheers
Hi Chris , 10mm does sound alot but it is quite a distance so may be normal , hard to say without seeing it really , If everything’s lining up correctly And the tensioners set right you shouldn’t have a Lmt issues 👍
Thanks for your reply mate. Measured the deflection last night with a ruler and it’s probably more like 5mm all marks were bang on and tensioner done up to 30nm I used the pins and tensioner was spot on so probably just me being paranoid. I’m not used to these sprung tensioners, prefer the old solid ones like the 2.0 hdi’s used to have.
@@ChrisB-ce7ih nice one 👍 always plays on your mind when it so crucial doesn’t it! Ha
Definitely, especially when your not used to doing them all the time haha. Thanks for taking the time to reply it’s really appreciated. Keep up the good work on the videos they are spot on 👍🏻
@@ChrisB-ce7ih 👍 will be plenty more to come
Would this be the same engine what is in a 2016 transit connect 1.5? And would the torque settings be the same?
Great video by the way
yeah pretty much exactly the same procedure