An EASY Way to Cut & Separate 3D Printing Files into MULTIPLE PARTS!
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- Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
- Welcome everyone! If you have seen a recent Instagram Story post then you saw the advanced ways I was cutting up some 3D files for my new Iron Man suit! Usually most people are bound by simple Plane Cut and Separate Shell features on 3D programs but I may have found a fairly neat way to cut out advanced shapes from these 3D armors and projects!
This is still a method I'm playing with and learning more about but I think it's refined enough to share with you all! Enjoy!
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#3DPrinting #STL #Cosplay
this is 1000 times easier than the blender boolean difference i’ve been doing. thank you mr built 🫡
Oh really?! That’s awesome news lol 😂
Agreed my doom slayer other half is going to be less of a nightmare
@@tylerbrauer22that’s awesome to hear, was planning to do a Doom cosplay suit myself and was having trouble so glad to know this will work😁
This is going to be a game changer for builds! Thank you for sharing this.
THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR!!! Thanks Frank.
Massive!!! I was doing the countless plane cuts the past few months. This is a faaaar superior technique.
Brand new to 3D printing. Was racking my brains out last night trying to figure out this exact thing with a Master Chief helmet.
I'm so used to dealing with pepakura and foam. This opens up so many possibilities. Awesome Channel.
I used to do this also in Meshmixer but with a different, rather crude method. This just saved me literally A SHITTON of work. THX!
this is honestly what ive been looking for ive been wanting to make an entire wearable volt cosplay (from warframe) and i had no clue how to properly cut up, add depth for it to print
I've been using Meshmixer from the start, but you've just taught me some new tricks. I find it more intuitive than the other types of software like Blender. Due to the build size of the Ender 3 V2, I have to cut helmets up into at least six parts. With my latest (Noble 6 (Halo)) helmet I've managed to join the parts by Meshmixing in alternating pegs and holes on joining pieces. That helps with aligning the parts when comes time to glue together. You do have to play with the peg and hole sizes to avoid the need for drilling out the holes after printing, but it does aid in the assembly. Minimal joint filling if you can file off the printer artefacts on the mating surfaces (hairy worms I call them) that come with any FDM print.
Have an Ender 3 v2-I just use Prusa slicer:you can do the slicing,pegs/dowels. i change diameter and use old filment for pegs which is especially useful for smaller and thinner sections of props/armour
I recently got a new 3D printer for Christmas, this channel has been really helpful to help me make and download 3D models.
Watched this instead of my morning cartoons, worth it
I’ve used a VERY similar process within blender, but having a method in meshmixer where you can easily run repairs after seems very streamlined. One thing to keep in mind/be carful of is parts with non uiniform thickness
Its great to be so early on one of your videos! Youre truly an inspiration and i credit you as the reason i got into 3d printing! Keep doing what you do and i hope you have a great day!
Your tips and guiding Always helpful ❤️... thank you for guiding... love to watch you
I hope you keep making these very informational videos they help so much 😊
Thank you for this. When I saw your short note of it on IG I was waiting for this to come out!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video! ive been working on 3d printing a car body to get casted and such since its cheaper then buying one.. this video came out at the perfect time.
Omg i bought a Van helsing crossbow model but there's parts I asked the designer to separate and thanks to you I don't need to wait I can actually do it myself !! 🤩 You sir are a star thank you thank you thank you
Frank this is a great video on how to use meshmixer, thank you. This will be so helpful with my suit.
I just need a larger 3D printer
Lol same. I have the MP Mini Delta V2, and as my cosplay hobby grows, I'm realizing that my printer is a little too small to efficiently print helmets or props. I use EVA foam for most of the costumes (such as for armor plates), but a larger 3D printer would be nice for making screen-accurate helmet/prop details that EVA foam just can't do.
Me too.
Honestly
Longer lk5pro is like 300 bucks and it's awesome. Build volume is 11.8 inch x 11.8 inch x 15 inch. Its also extremely consistent and has some features that aren't expected at that price point. Its got assisted bed leveling, filament run out sensor, glass heated bed, assisted filament changing and a couple other cool things like touch full color screen.
I just need that Stark budget
Been waiting for an in depth video like this! Thanks for making it!
dude, I am loving these videos
thank you, blender is so confusing, you just helped me separate a bumper from complete car model for a diffuser I'm designing!! Awesome!
Another great and informative video by Frankly Built!!
I’ve never been able to quite understand how to use blender, so this tip will make it so much easier or me to make corrections to the do3d files I’ve bought.
Trying this out on the Buzz Lightyear left forearm, looking promising so far
This vid helped so much in me being able to print solaires shield
Very helpful for the Ironman suit I’m making
I use Meshmixer for repairing STL's but it is nice to see its other possibilities.
This is exactly what I was needing! Thank you!
Love your videos watch every video that comes out you make 3d printing so much easier to learn thank you!
Frankly, I recently found your channel and started to watch a lot of videos from you in the past week. Thank you for all the great info you share. Very interested on the entire process to build an entire suit, so your new MK85 series will hit the spot for me. Thank you, really appreciate it and amazing job, your prints look fantastic.
OMG thank you... was struggling tryn to make weird cuts
The absolute insanity I have gone through tonight reading tutorial after tutorial, watching video after video all telling me to do plane cut, or just separate using the selector tool without telling me how to then fix the 3D model for printing... bro...this would have saved me like 5 hours. Not even joking.
Thank you for making this so simple. I can finally print the parts I want in the colors I want.
Thank you franky for teaching great help really appreciate it🔥
Bloody perfect!!! Worthy of a subscribe for this tip aline!
Excellent video, I'm one same page as you regarding blender, this looks so much easier
Awesome, thanks. This is what I need for some of the suits I'm doing and was having a hard time figuring out
There are some powerful tools available in some of the low cost or free programs. This is a VERY good example of the learning process, Good Job
I have recently been learning programs that can manipulate different file types for my hobby laser and CNC, I remove material but very similar. I believe that most of the processes could be acquired with proper training in one of the “higher end” CAD programs
So I was in the middle of removing supports from my 3d printed helmet and I'm watching this video thinking about how can this issue be resolved to separate the pieces in Blender. Then, I just remembered that there is such a function on how to separate parts of the armor.
What you can do is press the Z button in edit mode first in order to make the model "transparent". That way you can see right through the model in 3d space. Next, in either vertex, faces, or edge mode, you can press the C button for the circle select feature or the B button for box select. You use the circle select button to carefully pick with parts of the model you want selected or for an overall selection, you can use the box select to pick out large areas of the model. Once the faces has been selected that you want to extract, press the P button to separate the polygons into their own separate mesh.
Depending on how the model has been created, you may have to perform some repairs by adding new faces to the newly created models that you extracted.
Yeaahhh Thank you verry much!!! Saved the video. and will watch it later. Just what i asked for 😊
Great workflow.
You have given me god-like power, and now I am unstoppable. I have ascended to a higher level of consciousness. I will use this newfound skill to raise an army from the depths of my extruders. The battle will be legendary. Thank you for this video 😂
THANK YOU for this video, Ive been trying to figure out how to print the final part of my iron man helmet which is WAY too big for my Ender 3 Neo, and hopefully I can make it work now using this info 👍
Absolutely love this video Frank ❤ thank you so much for sharing this with us all I'm go to try it soon thanks again mate 🤜🤛💚
Thank you for the video. I tried to use this tecnique to seperate some details on komplex models to have a better sanding-surface. And I think I found a even better solution for deleting. Just hit DEL on the selected facegroup you want to get rid of. After that you can fill the holes with the auto detect-and flat fill option. Didnt printed it out jet, but it looks promissing.
This is so dope! Thank you!
🙌🙌🙌 thank you!!!
Nice just got into 3d printings and this will help
Great vid as always!
Love this. I don't have the time to figure out Blender or Fusion either so I hack my way through MM or Tinkercad. Only downside to MM: it tends to crash on very complex stuff and boolean cuts.
Thank you brother.
waaay too cool! Thanks!
Thanks for the tricks!
Would have been useful for my Ironman helmet but I just finished it😅
OMFG dude, i love you so much right now
Very nice. I've been using a similar (like 95%) of this method to remove power ranger helmet visors
your videos are so informative and very helpful for new 3D printer like me. So glad for this, doubt I'll do an Iron Man suit but this can help when I do my N7 armor from Mass Effect
That is an awesome tip, greatly improves workflow! Thank you for sharing good sir!
this is really going to help me out with my toy bonnie project. thanks a lot!
I’m working on my first mk85 helmet right now because I found your channel, all of the videos are amazing and have helped limit the amount of mistakes I’ve made. Thank you these. The suit is next btw.
About damn time ❤
Thank you
Fantastic. Thank you sir
My god this is brillaint XD ive lernt more in this video than WEEKS of messing about lol
this is awesome! thanks for sharing!
Witch craft!
Amazing thanks
Thank goodness man
thank you so much for the tutorial
Wow your background is awesome 😎
Good Vid You Helped me slice HellBat Foot.
I watched the twitch stream about this the other day
I've been looking for a tutorial like this😊
Great video...thanks for sharing 👏
Frank, you're great, thank you very much, this is incredibly useful information that opens up a lot of possibilities! Thank you!
No Idea if you saw my email asking about exactly this...but either way....THANK YOU!!! ( I am almost done for this build already but what the Hell... "A" for effort!
~M~
Thank you for this I recently got niko industries blue beetle helmet and have been wanting to cut out the eyes like they have on do3d, this is a game changer
He didn’t cut the eyes out of a helmet file??
@@FranklyBuiltnope it’s just a solid helmet
Even after hitting separate shells??
I’ve been modeling with fusion for about 6 years now and never knew this! Great video!
Awesome video as usual, man!
I love your content
Really nice and useful easy to follow tutorial!
This can help me save filament. My mark 4 mjolnir chest piece was causing issues and some required up to a kilo of fililament before I knew hiw to do this
in blender when in edit mode,hold left click on the knife tool option and choose the bisect tool. but this is still a cool option.
I have searched for many videos teaching how to edit models. This is the best I've ever seen.
Thank you so much man im making a black noir helmet from the boys and this helped a lot!
Luban 3d is even better. But if you can learn to actually model in blender it will change your world. I designed the jordan 1s in blender and now doing parts of a suit like this is not hard at all. But as always. ... Thanks Frank. You always have informative and educating content my man.
it won't offset when I change the slider values
Love ur videos
Can you make a Cyberman helpmate from the BBC show doctor who? your choice on witch one
Hey Frank love your videos and you inspired me to by my own 3D printer, but I would really love to see you do a video on the Civil Warrior's helmet from marvel's contest of champions either that or a winter soldier arm.
Trying this on a do3d file I have. Seems to work ok on flat or very well defined surfaces, but not working on separating more complex shapes... I will have to keep playing with it, but definitely a game changer if I can get it to work. Thanks
Can you send me a link to the file maybe google drive link perhaps i can help
Awesome
So helpful man thanks a lot
Another great video! I knew there had to be a better way than straight cuts. BUT…
I’ve gone step-by-step following along while trying to pull out a part of a model, and after selecting a part, going to Edit>Extract nothing happens. I move the Offset slider and the part doesn’t move. Is there a setting anyone knows of that I need to adjust first?
Same for me! If anyone knows how to get this extract step to work please help us out with an answer.
After I asked on Twitch I ended up having to use Fusion360 but the model/mesh was way too complicated and I had to reduce the number of triangles... so I have this sort of polygon effect on some of the smooth surfaces (its too late now I kicked off the 2 day print yesterday)
I am more confortable with F360 and it is suppose to replace MeshMixer so I went with that, but a quick play shows that there are still some things that are just faster in MeshMixer (the mesh loading in F360 is pretty terrible for big objects that you import. It much prefers you making your design in F360 than import a mesh into F360)
I love your suit, and I’m interested in creating a Tron suit. What would be a good place to start, being I never done this type of work before? Any information would help.
i just hit separate and its fine . no need to extraction might be for the oroi man helmet im doing works fine
What would you say is the best 3-D printer in the world
Omg life saver
Nice❤❤❤
Sorry this is kind of completely off topic but I am trying to decide on my first 3d printer.. something I can play with and grow into with the goal of eventually doing prop items etc. . My various digging has lead me to two choices.. the Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus which has been recommended on this channel before or the Sovol SV06 Plus which is their new offering.
The Neptune has a bigger build volume at 20x20x50 more then the Sovol which I am sure could be handy when moving into bigger prints however the Sovol has a larger full metal print head which ( to my understanding.. which is super limited ) is beneficial for reaching higher temperatures allowing it to potentially print faster(?) and maybe even deal with some materials the Neptune might not be able to as easily. Price wise they are similar.. availability is about the same and from those I have spoken to they seem to have positive feelings on both.
... so this is why I am posting here.. been following Frank for a bit and the people in the comments seem fairly knowledgeable particularly in the types on prints I am hoping to start doing so I thought I would see if anyone here had any thoughts/suggestions. Thank you in advance for anyone that took the time to read this whole thing. XD
que buen video!!!
Frank dont use analyzer in MM it creates to many artifacts , export to windows 3d builder and repair it there also in the last part of the video where you were tediously using brush feature to select and erase the edges that overlap and have a bad shape , export both overlapping models in windows 3d builder and make sure to un- group first, then use the edit feature and place both models intersecting each other and then select subtract and it will eliminate that sloppy overhang and the pieces will fit perfect with each other , I have been doing exactly what you have been doing and also incorporating window 3d builder to clean up mating surfaces also I use W3DB to create square tabs on the inside of the model and I position the tab so it sits flush within both parts and then I subtract and now I have a perfect tab recess in both models and a seperate tab to print by itself to join both parts , these tabs become alignment tabs and structural tans at the same time , you cam reach out to me and maybe I can make a short video to explain the process so you can add it to your channel to help others