One other youtube person is mechanic Francisco Amaya, and he is in Fontana, CAL . He has covered many DD15 engine issues in his videos and comes across as knowledgable and honest. His channel is Francisco Amaya
Slow Lane I am following him but he doesn’t have a shop I don’t believe. I am bringing my truck to another guy in Cali just as knowledgeable but I would love to have Francisco do work on my truck for sure
Chad,I have been wondering what the verdict was on your Truck glad it's fixed BTW with an older truck you should probably build up a checking account with at least $10,000 in it just something to think about, very happy to see you accomplish things in your life☺
Big Dog I’m def working on that man lol if I can get ahead and quit running in place. Positioning my truck better and all the down time. So many factors. Saving is most defiantly the most important thing in this business.
Egr coolers hardly ever fail on a DD motor. That’s a international issue. Most causes for coolant boil over are a unpressurized coolant system from a loose or leaking top or side cap. Loose head bolts will cause it, cracked liner, or air compressor are some of the more common causes. Oil coolers fail more often and dump oil into the coolant. Head gasket leaks are typically a trail of coolant down the side of the block. The mechanic that saw coolant on your dipstick tube could have just saw water residue. You can actually take a coolant test strip to that and see if it changes colors. It’s not as reliable as coolant in the hot pipe. If you’re egr cooler is like ing (rare but it happens on a DD motor too) you can take the EGR cold pipe off and take that water residue and put it on a coolant test strip. If it changes colors it’s a good indication it is coolant and not normal water condensation. Taste is a really good indicator too, red coolant tastes bitter like Robitussin. Depends if you wanna go there. Personally I don’t anymore.
Oh engine fan not coming on is more common, bad fan hub clutch, failed water temp sensors (there’s two), fan solinoid, restricted airflow thru the radiator from dirt in the fins or cardboard leftover from the winter. Water pump failure from cavitation or missing belt. Thermostat stuck closed.
The coolant temp sensor on the oil/ coolant module is kind of prone to cavitation from sucking a little air in the coolant hoses from the coolant manifold return. It rarely leaks into the harness. But if you pull the sensor out, you’ll see the brass casing eaten away. This obviously causes erratic readings or a drifted sensor. This could cause the fan to not come on even though the coolant temp at the outlet of the passenger side is not overheating yet, coolant more towards the rear may not be as cool and start boiling.
Hey Chad check your mix of pipe which is the metal pipe connected to your EGR takeoff the mixer pipe and check if you got anything that looks like water inside you mix a pipe to your EGR if you do it should EGR cooler
I heard the same thing about the coolant filter. I haven had a coolant filter since 2017. Not sure if it helps, but it hasn’t caused any issues either.
You can take the cap off and throw out the filter and put the cap back on. GHG17 trucks don’t even have the coolant filter anymore. They realized it really makes no difference. Unless you’re dumb enough to use standard life green or purple coolant that needs SCAs and nitrate levels regulated. Then you would need a time release filter sometimes. Red coolant is the best. 300,000 miles no maintaince. At 300,000 miles drain, flush and refill for another 300,000 miles. There are extenders you can add at 300,000 to get another 300,000 miles = 600,000 miles total. But I wouldn’t recommend it.
CB theTrucker yeah bro most def thinking the EGR Cooler and the coolant filter as well as the jug it’s self. Defiantly pull a sample bro to know for sure
Nomad Chad LMFAO you guys are hilarious I'm not telling you to drink it like a beer pull the dipstick out put your finger on it and taste it not going to kill you LOL
I have same problem in mine, coolant goes out of tank because big pressure, not oil mix, not big temperature, all normal, i have new compressor and the co2 test was negative, how you fixed? Thank you.
it looks like you got bad injector seal cups thats how your coolant is in the fuel. if you look at your water separator its got coolant mixed with fuel
Brother I have the same problem I changed the air compressor of the truck hoping to solve the problem the oil of the truck is fine the other may be the EGR
I hope you stay in business and survive this crap but, Dude that's the issue. Tryn to stay in business with these new p.o.s. ass emissions engines. This shit just not dependable. I have a 2010 frieghtliner Cascadia with a 60 series yes it's one of the first emissions engines well a few years after the first emissions engines and I only have the dpf filter no def be and man this thing has Regen issues dude. I'm talkn about like another problem on top of just truck problems. The bastard won't even completely Regen correctly. So things need to be fixed for it to sit there Regen a basically destroy itself.... Lol. Because Trucks idoling at 9k to 12k rpms isn't good for long periods of time. And everyday the Regen light comes on and goes off just bullcrap U would think that they care enough about the truckers and trucks that they wouldn't make such bs.... Good luck bro and, wish ya the best
Sometimes you got to break some of the rules if you know what I mean lol that’s all I’m going to say about that. 🤷♂️ It don’t get any easier out here that’s for sure. 60 series is one of the best engines ever made.
One other youtube person is mechanic Francisco Amaya, and he is in Fontana, CAL . He has covered many DD15 engine issues in his videos and comes across as knowledgable and honest. His channel is Francisco Amaya
Slow Lane I am following him but he doesn’t have a shop I don’t believe. I am bringing my truck to another guy in Cali just as knowledgeable but I would love to have Francisco do work on my truck for sure
@@NomadChad good deal, I had impression he had a shop, but Ill pray you got nothing major going on, thanks for great videos
Chad,I have been wondering what the verdict was on your Truck glad it's fixed BTW with an older truck you should probably build up a checking account with at least $10,000 in it just something to think about, very happy to see you accomplish things in your life☺
Big Dog I’m def working on that man lol if I can get ahead and quit running in place. Positioning my truck better and all the down time. So many factors. Saving is most defiantly the most important thing in this business.
I took my coolant filter completely out on my 13 freight shaker.
Egr coolers hardly ever fail on a DD motor. That’s a international issue. Most causes for coolant boil over are a unpressurized coolant system from a loose or leaking top or side cap. Loose head bolts will cause it, cracked liner, or air compressor are some of the more common causes. Oil coolers fail more often and dump oil into the coolant. Head gasket leaks are typically a trail of coolant down the side of the block. The mechanic that saw coolant on your dipstick tube could have just saw water residue. You can actually take a coolant test strip to that and see if it changes colors. It’s not as reliable as coolant in the hot pipe. If you’re egr cooler is like ing (rare but it happens on a DD motor too) you can take the EGR cold pipe off and take that water residue and put it on a coolant test strip. If it changes colors it’s a good indication it is coolant and not normal water condensation. Taste is a really good indicator too, red coolant tastes bitter like Robitussin. Depends if you wanna go there. Personally I don’t anymore.
Oh engine fan not coming on is more common, bad fan hub clutch, failed water temp sensors (there’s two), fan solinoid, restricted airflow thru the radiator from dirt in the fins or cardboard leftover from the winter. Water pump failure from cavitation or missing belt. Thermostat stuck closed.
The coolant temp sensor on the oil/ coolant module is kind of prone to cavitation from sucking a little air in the coolant hoses from the coolant manifold return. It rarely leaks into the harness. But if you pull the sensor out, you’ll see the brass casing eaten away. This obviously causes erratic readings or a drifted sensor. This could cause the fan to not come on even though the coolant temp at the outlet of the passenger side is not overheating yet, coolant more towards the rear may not be as cool and start boiling.
Hey Chad check your mix of pipe which is the metal pipe connected to your EGR takeoff the mixer pipe and check if you got anything that looks like water inside you mix a pipe to your EGR if you do it should EGR cooler
Brandon Hammonds already did that and looked pretty dry but then again the guy only removes one side of the pie so there def could be.
Put water in that water bottle then start the truck if you see bubble’s when you start the truck then might be head gasket.
I heard the same thing about the coolant filter. I haven had a coolant filter since 2017. Not sure if it helps, but it hasn’t caused any issues either.
You can take the cap off and throw out the filter and put the cap back on. GHG17 trucks don’t even have the coolant filter anymore. They realized it really makes no difference. Unless you’re dumb enough to use standard life green or purple coolant that needs SCAs and nitrate levels regulated. Then you would need a time release filter sometimes. Red coolant is the best. 300,000 miles no maintaince. At 300,000 miles drain, flush and refill for another 300,000 miles. There are extenders you can add at 300,000 to get another 300,000 miles = 600,000 miles total. But I wouldn’t recommend it.
just add the anti-static additive manually....one less component to fail
It’s definitely your EGR cooler my friend
Good update, I appreciate the information brother! 👍👏✌😎💯
I’m having similar issues with my truck as well. Truck isn’t overheating at all but coolant is backing out of the reservoir.
CB theTrucker yeah bro most def thinking the EGR Cooler and the coolant filter as well as the jug it’s self. Defiantly pull a sample bro to know for sure
Do u guys have any answers my truck is doing the same thing I have a cummins isx 2010
Pull the dipstick out and taste the oil literally no BS if it taste like coolant then you have a head gasket issue
John Lovett 😳😳😳
Bro are you serious??? 😂😂😂
Trucker G yep if it taste sweet then you have a head gasket leak that means you have coolant in your oil. Been working on engines for years
Trucker G I ain’t tasting the coolant 🤣
Nomad Chad LMFAO you guys are hilarious I'm not telling you to drink it like a beer pull the dipstick out put your finger on it and taste it not going to kill you LOL
Be safe out there.
Could be air compressor or compression leaking out from block to surge tank. Late to this video
I have same problem in mine, coolant goes out of tank because big pressure, not oil mix, not big temperature, all normal, i have new compressor and the co2 test was negative, how you fixed? Thank you.
it looks like you got bad injector seal cups thats how your coolant is in the fuel. if you look at your water separator its got coolant mixed with fuel
Nice vid. What kind of camera do you have? That’s crisp quality.
Chad did u ever find the culprit?
Brother I have the same problem I changed the air compressor of the truck hoping to solve the problem the oil of the truck is fine the other may be the EGR
Who's doing your samples
I watched 2 & a half minutes of him driving & listening to some 80's porn music. Oh well
Lol 😆
You’ll never get that 2 & a half minutes back 🤦♂️
👍🏻
Did you ever find your problem?
Your coolant tank is over filled.
And yes remove the filter trust me
Do you know a reliable diesel mechanic around 661 area?
The longest intro I have ever seen. But okay
I hope you stay in business and survive this crap but, Dude that's the issue. Tryn to stay in business with these new p.o.s. ass emissions engines. This shit just not dependable. I have a 2010 frieghtliner Cascadia with a 60 series yes it's one of the first emissions engines well a few years after the first emissions engines and I only have the dpf filter no def be and man this thing has Regen issues dude. I'm talkn about like another problem on top of just truck problems. The bastard won't even completely Regen correctly. So things need to be fixed for it to sit there Regen a basically destroy itself.... Lol. Because Trucks idoling at 9k to 12k rpms isn't good for long periods of time. And everyday the Regen light comes on and goes off just bullcrap
U would think that they care enough about the truckers and trucks that they wouldn't make such bs.... Good luck bro and, wish ya the best
Sometimes you got to break some of the rules if you know what I mean lol that’s all I’m going to say about that. 🤷♂️ It don’t get any easier out here that’s for sure. 60 series is one of the best engines ever made.
Very much right. Ya have to....
So true.
But good luck bro....
Ya bro you don’t know what you talking about .. call a Mecanic