Good information ! I've used the same size (6048) for the last 18 years and am very happy with the choice of Central Boiler. No problems the whole time. I do burn green wood and cut logs about 4 foot long. Efficiency losses of burning green are offset by way less handling/cutting using longer lengths and no splitting and stacking effort. Green hardwood burns very well as long as you maintain a good bed of coals. I fill the firebox full and only once a day even when it is below zero. Best decision ever.
@@davidsignor7931 The way it works for me is that the long green logs burn well at the air inlet side while the far end cooks and dries out without being consumed. I then rake those charred ends forward on the next loading where they will readily catch and burn. I agree that the baffled roof of the firebox traps more heat but I don't see any increase in wasted heat using my method. Respectfully, YMMV.
We live 20 miles away from the nearest Mcdonalds, Walmart and any other major stores. I talked to the neighbours on both sides about going for a boiler. I told them I would pay for their homes to be hooked up to it as well as my own. Only condition is they pay for all the wood with the cost split between them. It will supply heat and hot water. If they sell the house and the new neighbour says no to buying half the wood. Well the valve will be on my property to shut it off. lol. Congrats, you got my dream setup.
I made me a flat front spade shovel with a half circle back end with 1/4” slots in it, pull all ashes to the front and scoop, shake the ashes and throw the hot coals to the back. When done with getting the coals out just scoop the ashes out, done with mine in 5min or less. My wood is 3’ long split in half but let it sit for 3-6months and it burns best to me. That heated basement and the upstairs floor being heated makes the upstairs nice and warm
Very interesting to know the different challenges of people from different regions of the world. I'm right now watching your video from Cuiabá, a city in Brazil that has more than 104°F during the day. 😅 Here we need to find ways to cool the buildings to be comfortable houses. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
I had a 1200 sq. ft. home which I could not get heating oil for during the mid seventies oil embargo. I had to burn wood and I did not have time to season it. Since I live in a temperate rain forest (which gets into single digits and can have several feet of snow over the winter [170+ inches of rain per year]) the heating season is ten to eleven months a year. I had a wood stove with a domestic water heating loop tied into my oil boiler. That first year of wet wood I burned almost thirteen cord of wood. By the third year I had seasoned wood and a good sheltered wood shed to dry it in. That year I burned five to six cord for the same job. No hardwoods available here so it was all hemlock, spruce, or cedar. Shows what a difference dry wood makes. There were many times that first year I had the door fully open to the stove and it used most of the energy to dry the wood with very little heating the house. 2x4 construction, very tight and twelve inches of insulation in the attic, with a full basement. I used an Earth Stove before the advent of secondary burn chambers but it would hold a fire overnight for eight or nine hours damped down. A lot of my wood came off the beaches and wherever else I could find it. When you are cold you aren't choosy. Some of it was full of teredo worms and often when I put a maul to it it would splash it was so wet. Some off of logging landings was much drier than that having been in salt water for many months. The hot water loop with a circulating pump kept a fifty gallon tank heated in the basement (ground temp at 45-50F) and I could take a nice hot morning shower for twenty minutes no problem. You do pay for not having dried wood, that is for sure. I was burning such wet wood that I didn't get ash in the bottom of the stove, I got a two inch thick solid brick of it that had to be broke up to remove, not shoveled. We did stay warm though and that counted.
Thanks for the tips, tricks and advice posting. I did pick up some stuff from this. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year....From Jakob over in SE London in the UK....
So far you've made all good decisions for your home. I imagine a lot of people end up just pushing the ashes to the back of those units until it's way too much lol. Take care!
I've installed several hundred boilers, the newer gasification are a pain, lots of maintenance. Your circulation pump will last alot longer if you get rid of the fiberglass insulation, the pump will overheat.
I'm from NE Ohio also I love my heatmaster G4000 from Bills outdoor in Lisbon 3rd season and not have the problems everyone speaks of happy holidays my friend 😊
That is efficient heating. I would have thought it will lose a lot of heat just standing in the cold. Thank you for the update. I hope you and your family have Merry Christmas and new year
Good update and review! I too have heated with wood for several decades, never with this method. Having low cost fuel or access to hardwood would be key in my area. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
This is a great video. You did a wonderful job explaining this and your filming style is really pleasant! It’s my first time seeing one of your videos and I’ve subscribed now.
Nice one. I have been watching this from the start, and it just gets better. The boiler may not be the most efficient but a simple reliable design. Not much to go wrong. If you want to test it at its rated power, fill it with the offcuts of timber from the house build. Kiln dried or pallets is always good for proving power output. All the best to you.
Wolf pup very very informative when you give your presentations..I almost think sometimes I’m back in school listening to a teacher you’re very good job getting your message across from your very thorough in your information… I have pondered on wood furnace myself grew up around the fireplace all my life except for the last 10 years…I miss a fireplace on a cold day as much as you miss a beer on a hot day ……………now I know you’re laughing.. two things for your new woodstove furnace I would make a long poker so you can reach all the way in the back probably about a 4 1/2 or 5 foot arm,, and also get up old rake and put a flat blade on it like a cement rake ………so you can pull your hot embers either back to the stove out. …or take your ash out,,,, So you don’t have your arm in the stove all the time………..also I plug in that skid steer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!so she doesn’t have to turn so hard to get going on a cold day …………………that’s a very valuable piece of equipment take care of!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!it I owned a few of them I miss mine,,,,,merry Christmas happy new year Samuel bacon
Now you need a TM upside down splitter for the skid steer! Best thing I ever bought as I always got free wood from local arborists that gave me the really big knotted pieces. When it gets colder out I use some larger diameter logs so they don’t burn out overnight (or mix in a little coal if your boiler is capable like mine is). I have a 300 sq ft sunroom being heated with all windows. It definitely takes a lot more energy to keep warm even with low E windows and insulation in walls/ceiling.
Your in snow, and talking furnaces and Im celebrating Christmas and its 26C lol. Have a very merry Christmas and all the very best for the new year. Cheers from New Zealand.
A few weeks ago I set up a Shelly Plus 1 with temperature add on to monitor my water temperature, and it's been fantastic. Works over wifi (I have it set up inside the house), and you can have the temperature on your phone anywhere. An added bonus is being able to remotely control up to a 15A load, which I have hooked up to a blower fan right now. I have low and high water temperature alerts set up. Also apparently Inkbird makes something similar but I haven't tried that.
Oh man. Wheels are turning. In Indiana. Been running all electric heat for about 4 years since my heat pump went out. Needless to say, I may as well be lighting money on fire. Also have close to an endless supply of wood. Feel like I should put one of these in...
When it get colder you may want to see if you can find a squirrel cage fan mounted behind your heat exchanger. It will put out a more heat. Just my 2 cents.😀😀😀
Lemmie just ad here how this is better than pellets stove heater in the house anyday. Pellet heater in the cabin almost killed my dog and started the cabin on fire. NEVER USE pellets that have broken apart in shipping and became mostly tiny pieces and dust. They will eventually ignite in the hopper. Fill the home with smoke and make the dog so terrified he craps at the door. Luckily i made it back from work with probably less than an hour to spare until complete destruction. Dog was fine, he lived 8.5 years and passed away naturally this July.
Anything you can do with your system to allow a large heat buffer is advantageous (that heavy mass of concrete is perfect). Putting that hot water through a glycol exchanger to put hot glycol in your floor will work well. Don't just use water especially in a cold climate, use a master kit with a pump and reservoir. (I'm in Alberta, Canada) For your upstairs heating; We did nail up transfer plates and then put 6" of 1/2 pound spray foam, both to stiffen the floor and keep the heat moving up. What a labour pain, works great, floors are quiet, tonnes of glycol in the floors allow smooth heating, keep your loops tight (2 per truss space). If I was to do it again, I'd do the nail down system, add a extra bottom plate on my framing and pour 1.5" of plasticrete on top. It would be SOOO much easier to do.
Yeah that concrete thermal mass is gonna make it so nice & comfortable in there, you'll be walking barefoot on it cause it's so nice! Dogs will probably be loving the warm floor too! Happy Holidays! 🎄☃️🎅🏻🎁
Heating tech here from Maine- remember that radiant floor heating system will require a much lower temperature water for the slab. You will need a modulation valve and depending on your setup, a blend tank to temper the water down . Your slab and piping won’t like the 180 degree water circulating through it.
@ on more thing- I wasn’t able to determine the pipe size, but remember there is an upper limit for the amount of BTU’s that can pass through even with a high velocity Taco circulator. Please do a heat loss on your property- slab and the addition. My early thoughts are that you may need larger supply and return lines. And if you are planning to make domestic hot water, everything will change again. An example would be a 200000 BTU heat loss calculation and the distance would be way beyond the capacity of your current system… To confirm this, check out the output of your suspended heater in BTU’s at 180 degree water at the rated gpm flow. Also, your rules must be different in your state. Here in Maine, that unit couldn’t be sold without the btu rating on it, clearances to combustibles and certifications from a listed national testing agency.. UL, etc.
I use the same boiler, the classic. I remove ash normally one time a month, I use whatever wood is available usually popple, birch, ash, some crap wood. I fill it full one time a day, wood averages 3" long and anything I can lift so up to 18" wide logs. The wood pile here is just under 100' long and 3' deep- that lasts the winter with some left over. Last winter I used 2/3 of that wood stack because it was a mild winter here. baseboard and floor heat. 1600sq house, central WI Your few little wood chunks is not "filling it"
Make sides for your wood shed to keep blowing snow and rain out helps a lot. Lap siding with gaps between keeps air moving but snow and rain out. Then a heavy tarp or something for a door (sliding barn door is ideal).
Hey! Nice and informative video as always @Wolf Pup Fab. I know it will be a good evening when I get a notification that you posted a new video. One question tho, have you looked into geothermal heating? We have it as a reliable source for heating here in Sweden. It saves all that work with “gathering”/splitting/burning wood. It’s a bit pricy to install but it makes up for it in comfort. I used to have an old flex-burner that I could burn both oil and wood. Although my system didn’t regulate the fire in that manner that your outdoor burner is doing. But man when I changed that old burner out, it was a dream. Anyway thanks for the content. I can’t wait for spring and more house building. 😬👍🏻
Thanks for being interested! I have looked into geothermal briefly. From what I found the cost wouldn’t out-way the benefit for me. I also don’t mind processing firewood
Good video content! I would like to basically the same thing. Find a good used boiler and like a few others have done install a Beckett burner on the door and used it to burn waste motor oil. I have basically an unlimited supply of good clean waste oil. But also the ability to burn my own wood.
Heating the floors is the best heat in my book.I love the outdoor boiler! I'mlooking forward to the rest of your build. Do you have a wood stove inside too?
I light mine in November and shut it down about May. I don’t let it go out I only shovel coals and ash maybe once or twice during that time. I just keep letting it burn down
Get your water pump in the basement you dont to change that outside in the cold have a spare on hand as well as an extra soleind for the door they will eventually go out
I would greatly appreciate an answer to a couple questions. Do you know the temp of the return loop at the boiler? Also, what is your thermostat set at inside your house? Thanks. I can’t wait for the spring when you can start building. Love the channel and I’m a subscriber.
I don’t know the temperature of the return loop I haven’t checked that yet. The thermostat in the house is set at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks for watching👍
Good video. You say there is water running through the boiler and underground. I would have thought you would have to use glycol so it does not freeze if you are not using the boiler (away skiing for a week)? And with the slow smokey fire is creosote buildup an issue/ I saw lots when you showed inside the firebox door...
Better keep that black creo out of the stack and other places it likes to migrate to, it can be a issue but I'm sure your aware of those issues, but nothing like wood heat run around in the sock feet..Great Vid 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Ran 220 volt Taco circulators with the 6048 boiler set at 190 top out. Temp ran out at 190, and came back at 160, with a cycle time of less than 12 minutes @ 15 degrees outside. Very fast cycle time of less
You're so right about using the best insulated pex underground. Mother Earth will suck every BTU she can from your heating system. I used to sell HVAC and ranchers would want to heat their dirt-floored barns or arenas with radiant heat and I had to tell them they would be wasting their money.
I've never used a boiler.So I'm just learning....Does this unit only burn wood or will it burn anything?Can you tell inside your house that the wood has been used up?(I mean the heat.Does it can out Hotter or just a cooler heat.I hope you & your Family have a very wonderful Christmas & a Happy New Year.
wondering did you use anti-freeze (boiler not automotive) to fill the system and auto -air eliminators? also a bladder tank for expansion/contraction so you didn't have to worry about low (water) problems? i was a boiler tech few yrs ago, did upto 5 million hp boilers.
There is no anti freeze in the system and no need for a pressure tank because it is not technically a “boiler” it is not a pressurized system. So I can add water if it is low
@@Wolfpupfab but i forgot, insurance and both agree, heating h2o IS A boiler and you should have a expansion tank with a relief valve, all just 4 your safety plz water heated EXPANDS
I know some guys that heat thier large shops with radiant floor and outdoor boilers and I don't think you'll need to add the pex to the first floor. Once that concrete gets up to temp it makes the room pretty dog gone toasty.
Det finns jätte fina värme förflyttar system vissa har fyrkantiga rör andra runda rör . Med termostat styrd fläkt . Då kan alla dina rum få en skön värme
20 year Central Boiler CL4436. You don't really need to clean that out real often. If ashes are level with the door then maybe. My Home is 2300 squ feet. We took load every 12-14 hours. If you'd put double the wood in your go 24+ hours. Also the bigger the round the longer the burn. That unit will suck the moisture out of the wood. You can put once you get a base 7-8 inch rounds in that.
I'm going to add to this. I burn 7-8 cords a year. It makes all domestic hot water. I have hot water heat with 3 heat zones. The larger the round the longer it will burn.
I think with just that single radiator unit you're not pulling a whole bunch of BTUs out of the boiler water. Yeah, add that radiant flooring and you'll definitely burn a little more wood. What is the boiler itself rated at BTU wise?
@@Wolfpupfab Went to their website and was surprised to see that they don't! At least on the "Classic" series... some of the other models they do though. Wonder what's up with that? It was also interesting to see that they are now saying that the Classic series is "not to be used for residential use in the US". Probably some EPA bull5h1t I'm guessing. They never used to say that! Happy Holidays!
yeah 24° is really warm. having 30° outside you need to start the ac to cool down. nice fake snow. fun aside ~ i know americans are not that much into that game of emmisions but how clean is it?
Why don't you get a coal base all along the bottom and then fill it completely and see how long you go with out filling it again , I bet you would go a day or more based on you only using that small radiator in the basement as your heat exchanger, definitely shows how well you insulated or how the Legos can't remember the name.of the blocks that you used to pour that basement work . Still I'm amazed at all the digging you had to do that was a lot of dirt hope building materials prices go down this year so you can finish easier .
Actually, the ashes insulate the fire from the cold water and thereby make it burn a bit more efficient, if your smoke heat exchanger is big enough, that is. With the size fire your running in that big box it most likely is. so more ashes underneath means in this configuration, more heat from the same wood into the water, and less out the chimney... but we're talking like 5% maybe, probably way less. Depending on your heat exchanger design and such. The physics behind this is, that you want the fire to burn inside a fireclay chamber, so it burns at its absolutely highest possible temp, which will lead to a burn with almost no ash, and then take the heat out of the exhaust gases after it leaves the fireclay camber... Those exchanges surfaces therefore stay clean, and in the end, you fire 20 cords and have a shovel of ashes and no stove cleaning. Not like 2 cords and half a skidsteer bucket full, and lots of carbon buildup on the fire box surfaces insulating the fire from the water, like you have it right now, thats all the energy you did not get.... but thats in the design of those big lumpy old fire boxes.... if you really want to get top-notch stuff, go talk to Austrian wood stove builders, but they may not give you all the paperwork for code compliance in the US.... I tried to import one to Canada, and I failed miserably to import a 15% more efficient and way cleaner burning oven due to code requiring some paperwork the manufacturer cant supply as they dont intend to sell any time sooon to the Americans, all the way from Isla Hornos Chile to Nunavut Canada... I dont understand that either, but then, thats their business decision, not mine. a recommendation: i would cycle the circulation pump with the fan motor. no need to heat the ground for 75% of the time your fans not taking heat out of the radiator (you said its only running like 15 mins in an hour...). no matter how well insulated the underground pipe is.... just for comparison: we insulate with 10 inches and more between ambient and outside, and seldom see below freezing temps. so i personally would consider that underground pipe to be terribly bad insulated. my own roof has 81cm of insulation, 22 between the rafters, 8 on top, then the wind barrier, and then a rain tight, compressed, wood wool, 50cm thick layer, on top, underneath the rafters i got 2 cross glued layers of 1/2" OSB and some MDF paneling.... so were talking about in excess of 30 inches of insulation here, for a mostly 25K temp drop... your water is 175 to 50, its a 125F (70K) temp drop and you got what, 3 inches on a 30m run? brrr, looks like your wood is for free, but i dont consider logging and splitting my hobbies, so i would not think of it as for free. by cycling the circulation pump you cut out on all the losses while the fans not run for heating, well thats not entirely true as the probably 3 gallons in the pipe will cool to 50f, but better that than keeping it hot constantly. Those outdoor boilers would really anoy me on serveral levels. first every time you open that door your head is inside a smoke plum... and your smelling like your a fire pit worker all winter long. probably good if you dont like showering, but then, i know of no women that would want THAT on the sheets next to her... second, to tend to it, you have to leave the comfy warm building, just imagine your sick with what ever, whos going to fire that outdoor boiler for you, you on crutches in 3 ft of snow and ice, while a blizzard comes down? thanks but no thanks, thats not for me. hope it works for you though. :-) I like your factuall content. keep it coming.
@ i worked for a builder on the coast of Maine and we put Advantac down on his floor and it stayed intact under snow, ice and rain. I was very impressed! We didn’t get his home dried-in until early spring.
Get a regular 20" box fan, set of low speed pointing at the heat exchanger from the far wall and just let it run. It'll slowly move the warm air and make your set up more efficient when your main fan isn't running. Fellow Buckeye here.
Good information ! I've used the same size (6048) for the last 18 years and am very happy with the choice of Central Boiler. No problems the whole time. I do burn green wood and cut logs about 4 foot long. Efficiency losses of burning green are offset by way less handling/cutting using longer lengths and no splitting and stacking effort. Green hardwood burns very well as long as you maintain a good bed of coals. I fill the firebox full and only once a day even when it is below zero. Best decision ever.
Nice. Good to hear you’ve been happy with it for so long. I hope I have the same experience
You will burn a lot less wood if you cut it short enough to fit in before the baffle
@@davidsignor7931 The way it works for me is that the long green logs burn well at the air inlet side while the far end cooks and dries out without being consumed. I then rake those charred ends forward on the next loading where they will readily catch and burn. I agree that the baffled roof of the firebox traps more heat but I don't see any increase in wasted heat using my method. Respectfully, YMMV.
We live 20 miles away from the nearest Mcdonalds, Walmart and any other major stores. I talked to the neighbours on both sides about going for a boiler. I told them I would pay for their homes to be hooked up to it as well as my own. Only condition is they pay for all the wood with the cost split between them. It will supply heat and hot water. If they sell the house and the new neighbour says no to buying half the wood. Well the valve will be on my property to shut it off. lol. Congrats, you got my dream setup.
Wow I’m surprised you even offered that deal. Usually stuff like that doesn’t work out in the long run
@@Wolfpupfab and I'm sure it won't, unfortunately....
I've been watching your build videos with a lot of interest.
You deserve a thumbs up for ambition and trying to do things the best way.
Thanks I appreciate that👍
Agree with your reasoning and analysis, looks like a good setup and you're getting confirmation you've done it properly!
Thanks👍
I made me a flat front spade shovel with a half circle back end with 1/4” slots in it, pull all ashes to the front and scoop, shake the ashes and throw the hot coals to the back. When done with getting the coals out just scoop the ashes out, done with mine in 5min or less. My wood is 3’ long split in half but let it sit for 3-6months and it burns best to me.
That heated basement and the upstairs floor being heated makes the upstairs nice and warm
A video treat just before christmas, love it. Have a Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to you and the Supervisors
Very interesting to know the different challenges of people from different regions of the world. I'm right now watching your video from Cuiabá, a city in Brazil that has more than 104°F during the day. 😅 Here we need to find ways to cool the buildings to be comfortable houses. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family!
I had a 1200 sq. ft. home which I could not get heating oil for during the mid seventies oil embargo. I had to burn wood and I did not have time to season it. Since I live in a temperate rain forest (which gets into single digits and can have several feet of snow over the winter [170+ inches of rain per year]) the heating season is ten to eleven months a year. I had a wood stove with a domestic water heating loop tied into my oil boiler. That first year of wet wood I burned almost thirteen cord of wood. By the third year I had seasoned wood and a good sheltered wood shed to dry it in. That year I burned five to six cord for the same job. No hardwoods available here so it was all hemlock, spruce, or cedar. Shows what a difference dry wood makes. There were many times that first year I had the door fully open to the stove and it used most of the energy to dry the wood with very little heating the house. 2x4 construction, very tight and twelve inches of insulation in the attic, with a full basement. I used an Earth Stove before the advent of secondary burn chambers but it would hold a fire overnight for eight or nine hours damped down. A lot of my wood came off the beaches and wherever else I could find it. When you are cold you aren't choosy. Some of it was full of teredo worms and often when I put a maul to it it would splash it was so wet. Some off of logging landings was much drier than that having been in salt water for many months. The hot water loop with a circulating pump kept a fifty gallon tank heated in the basement (ground temp at 45-50F) and I could take a nice hot morning shower for twenty minutes no problem. You do pay for not having dried wood, that is for sure. I was burning such wet wood that I didn't get ash in the bottom of the stove, I got a two inch thick solid brick of it that had to be broke up to remove, not shoveled. We did stay warm though and that counted.
Thanks for the lesson, I live where those are not used much. Looking forward to your continuing build this summer.
Thanks for the tips, tricks and advice posting. I did pick up some stuff from this. Merry Christmas, Happy New Year....From Jakob over in SE London in the UK....
Thanks you as well
So far you've made all good decisions for your home.
I imagine a lot of people end up just pushing the ashes to the back of those units until it's way too much lol. Take care!
Nice, you are doing a fantastic job.
Your dogs are adorable ❤
Thanks for keeping us up to date.
I've installed several hundred boilers, the newer gasification are a pain, lots of maintenance. Your circulation pump will last alot longer if you get rid of the fiberglass insulation, the pump will overheat.
If I was a millionaire, I’d give you the money to finish your project just cause I’m so vested in the process! Great job so far!
I'm from NE Ohio also I love my heatmaster G4000 from Bills outdoor in Lisbon 3rd season and not have the problems everyone speaks of happy holidays my friend 😊
That is efficient heating. I would have thought it will lose a lot of heat just standing in the cold. Thank you for the update. I hope you and your family have Merry Christmas and new year
The water jacket around the boiler is insulated. Thanks!
Good update and review! I too have heated with wood for several decades, never with this method. Having low cost fuel or access to hardwood would be key in my area. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
This is a great video. You did a wonderful job explaining this and your filming style is really pleasant! It’s my first time seeing one of your videos and I’ve subscribed now.
Thank i appreciate it👍
Nice one. I have been watching this from the start, and it just gets better. The boiler may not be the most efficient but a simple reliable design. Not much to go wrong. If you want to test it at its rated power, fill it with the offcuts of timber from the house build. Kiln dried or pallets is always good for proving power output. All the best to you.
Wolf pup very very informative when you give your presentations..I almost think sometimes I’m back in school listening to a teacher you’re very good job getting your message across from your very thorough in your information… I have pondered on wood furnace myself grew up around the fireplace all my life except for the last 10 years…I miss a fireplace on a cold day as much as you miss a beer on a hot day ……………now I know you’re laughing.. two things for your new woodstove furnace I would make a long poker so you can reach all the way in the back probably about a 4 1/2 or 5 foot arm,, and also get up old rake and put a flat blade on it like a cement rake ………so you can pull your hot embers either back to the stove out. …or take your ash out,,,, So you don’t have your arm in the stove all the time………..also I plug in that skid steer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!so she doesn’t have to turn so hard to get going on a cold day …………………that’s a very valuable piece of equipment take care of!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!it I owned a few of them I miss mine,,,,,merry Christmas happy new year Samuel bacon
Thanks👍 yes I will be making some custom tools
Now you need a TM upside down splitter for the skid steer! Best thing I ever bought as I always got free wood from local arborists that gave me the really big knotted pieces.
When it gets colder out I use some larger diameter logs so they don’t burn out overnight (or mix in a little coal if your boiler is capable like mine is). I have a 300 sq ft sunroom being heated with all windows. It definitely takes a lot more energy to keep warm even with low E windows and insulation in walls/ceiling.
Weather looks lovely😮
Look good like your setup and vision. Suggest a small lean-to or open post fram over the boiler from my wood storage and protection for boiler
Yes I have some plans in the future for something like that
Thanks for the update! Good stuff. You have a good narration voice/style. Like this channel.
Thanks👍
hi there nice boiler , ,best to all and Merry Christmas John
Merry Christmas Wolf Pup Crew!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Big bear hugs from Kenny in NW Ohio!!!!!!!!!
Good morning ! Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Thanks Merry Christmas to you!
I just installed the thicker aluminum plates under subfloor in my home, works awesome! Very comfortable, old furnace is off and will stay that way.
Reminded me to go check my insulated pex in the basement. Thank you, and take care
Your in snow, and talking furnaces and Im celebrating Christmas and its 26C lol. Have a very merry Christmas and all the very best for the new year. Cheers from New Zealand.
A few weeks ago I set up a Shelly Plus 1 with temperature add on to monitor my water temperature, and it's been fantastic. Works over wifi (I have it set up inside the house), and you can have the temperature on your phone anywhere. An added bonus is being able to remotely control up to a 15A load, which I have hooked up to a blower fan right now. I have low and high water temperature alerts set up. Also apparently Inkbird makes something similar but I haven't tried that.
That sounds pretty neat I will have to look into it
Gets really fun when you start plugging it into HomeAssistant. Can build a whole dashboard for your heating, electrical, etc.
nice setup
thanks for the info - you answered a lot of my questions
Another great video Wolf and a Merry Christmas and a Happy New year to you and all your family
Thanks you too
Oh man. Wheels are turning. In Indiana. Been running all electric heat for about 4 years since my heat pump went out. Needless to say, I may as well be lighting money on fire. Also have close to an endless supply of wood.
Feel like I should put one of these in...
It’s a big money saver if you don’t mind processing firewood
When it get colder you may want to see if you can find a squirrel cage fan mounted behind your heat exchanger. It will put out a more heat. Just my 2 cents.😀😀😀
Lemmie just ad here how this is better than pellets stove heater in the house anyday. Pellet heater in the cabin almost killed my dog and started the cabin on fire. NEVER USE pellets that have broken apart in shipping and became mostly tiny pieces and dust. They will eventually ignite in the hopper. Fill the home with smoke and make the dog so terrified he craps at the door. Luckily i made it back from work with probably less than an hour to spare until complete destruction.
Dog was fine, he lived 8.5 years and passed away naturally this July.
Excellent presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks 👍
Anything you can do with your system to allow a large heat buffer is advantageous (that heavy mass of concrete is perfect). Putting that hot water through a glycol exchanger to put hot glycol in your floor will work well. Don't just use water especially in a cold climate, use a master kit with a pump and reservoir. (I'm in Alberta, Canada) For your upstairs heating; We did nail up transfer plates and then put 6" of 1/2 pound spray foam, both to stiffen the floor and keep the heat moving up. What a labour pain, works great, floors are quiet, tonnes of glycol in the floors allow smooth heating, keep your loops tight (2 per truss space). If I was to do it again, I'd do the nail down system, add a extra bottom plate on my framing and pour 1.5" of plasticrete on top. It would be SOOO much easier to do.
Nice. Good information
Yeah that concrete thermal mass is gonna make it so nice & comfortable in there, you'll be walking barefoot on it cause it's so nice! Dogs will probably be loving the warm floor too!
Happy Holidays! 🎄☃️🎅🏻🎁
Heating tech here from Maine- remember that radiant floor heating system will require a much lower temperature water for the slab. You will need a modulation valve and depending on your setup, a blend tank to temper the water down . Your slab and piping won’t like the 180 degree water circulating through it.
Yes I have been doing research on that. Thanks for the reminder👍
@ on more thing- I wasn’t able to determine the pipe size, but remember there is an upper limit for the amount of BTU’s that can pass through even with a high velocity Taco circulator. Please do a heat loss on your property- slab and the addition.
My early thoughts are that you may need larger supply and return lines.
And if you are planning to make domestic hot water, everything will change again.
An example would be a 200000 BTU heat loss calculation and the distance would be way beyond the capacity of your current system…
To confirm this, check out the output of your suspended heater in BTU’s at 180 degree water at the rated gpm flow.
Also, your rules must be different in your state. Here in Maine, that unit couldn’t be sold without the btu rating on it, clearances to combustibles and certifications from a listed national testing agency.. UL, etc.
I use the same boiler, the classic. I remove ash normally one time a month, I use whatever wood is available usually popple, birch, ash, some crap wood.
I fill it full one time a day, wood averages 3" long and anything I can lift so up to 18" wide logs.
The wood pile here is just under 100' long and 3' deep- that lasts the winter with some left over.
Last winter I used 2/3 of that wood stack because it was a mild winter here.
baseboard and floor heat.
1600sq house, central WI
Your few little wood chunks is not "filling it"
Nice. In my situation it is “filling” it enough to heat my house
Make sides for your wood shed to keep blowing snow and rain out helps a lot. Lap siding with gaps between keeps air moving but snow and rain out. Then a heavy tarp or something for a door (sliding barn door is ideal).
Another excellent video thank you. You really make us Ohio boys look smart. lol.
Thanks! Somebody has to do it
Cool vid I was wondering how it was working 👍🏻👍🏻Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year 🎄
Cool, thanks for this. I'm thinking about how I'm going to heat my shop. This might be the solution I'm looking for.
Excellent idea as a temp way to heat your house
Wolf wishing you and your family a wonderful happy Christmas 🤶🎅
Lumna acres has a outside side stove . Check them out. Looking forward to you finishing the house 🏠
Hey! Nice and informative video as always @Wolf Pup Fab.
I know it will be a good evening when I get a notification that you posted a new video.
One question tho, have you looked into geothermal heating? We have it as a reliable source for heating here in Sweden. It saves all that work with “gathering”/splitting/burning wood.
It’s a bit pricy to install but it makes up for it in comfort.
I used to have an old flex-burner that I could burn both oil and wood. Although my system didn’t regulate the fire in that manner that your outdoor burner is doing. But man when I changed that old burner out, it was a dream.
Anyway thanks for the content.
I can’t wait for spring and more house building. 😬👍🏻
Thanks for being interested! I have looked into geothermal briefly. From what I found the cost wouldn’t out-way the benefit for me. I also don’t mind processing firewood
Nice burner. Very clean too. There is little tar build up. Tar is your biggest enemy.
Good video content! I would like to basically the same thing. Find a good used boiler and like a few others have done install a Beckett burner on the door and used it to burn waste motor oil. I have basically an unlimited supply of good clean waste oil. But also the ability to burn my own wood.
Thanks. Yes I have seen that before. I also believe Central Boiler makes a unit like that from the factory ready to burn oil. Muti-fuel
Heating the floors is the best heat in my book.I love the outdoor boiler! I'mlooking forward to the rest of your build. Do you have a wood stove inside too?
Thanks. No I do not have a woodstove in the house anymore I had to take it out because of the addition
When I was over the other day, the house was super cozy and warm! It was freezing outside !
Winter Sucks, merry X-mas.
The heat exchanger radiator, once it's permanently installed in ductwork, watch out they plug up very easily, kind of like AC A Coils.
I light mine in November and shut it down about May. I don’t let it go out I only shovel coals and ash maybe once or twice during that time. I just keep letting it burn down
That sounds about right
Great video 👍👍
Thanks👍
Get your water pump in the basement you dont to change that outside in the cold have a spare on hand as well as an extra soleind for the door they will eventually go out
That should be great once it's totally hooked up all the way .
I would greatly appreciate an answer to a couple questions. Do you know the temp of the return loop at the boiler? Also, what is your thermostat set at inside your house? Thanks. I can’t wait for the spring when you can start building. Love the channel and I’m a subscriber.
I don’t know the temperature of the return loop I haven’t checked that yet. The thermostat in the house is set at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Thanks for watching👍
Good video. You say there is water running through the boiler and underground. I would have thought you would have to use glycol so it does not freeze if you are not using the boiler (away skiing for a week)? And with the slow smokey fire is creosote buildup an issue/ I saw lots when you showed inside the firebox door...
I just have to make sure the fire doesn’t go out and keep the pump running. Creosote does build up, a lot of it burns off but that is just part of it
Enjoying your vids of house build and etc. one suggestion. Get longer handled hoe and shovel for the outdoor boiler.
Better keep that black creo out of the stack and other places it likes to migrate to, it can be a issue but I'm sure your aware of those issues, but nothing like wood heat run around in the sock feet..Great Vid 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks👍
Ran 220 volt Taco circulators with the 6048 boiler set at 190 top out. Temp ran out at 190, and came back at 160, with a cycle time of less than 12 minutes @ 15 degrees outside. Very fast cycle time of less
i noticed the Liberty Electric ladder in his basement. Does anyone know if he is an electrician?
You're so right about using the best insulated pex underground. Mother Earth will suck every BTU she can from your heating system. I used to sell HVAC and ranchers would want to heat their dirt-floored barns or arenas with radiant heat and I had to tell them they would be wasting their money.
Good stuff!
Thanks!
I've never used a boiler.So I'm just learning....Does this unit only burn wood or will it burn anything?Can you tell inside your house that the wood has been used up?(I mean the heat.Does it can out Hotter or just a cooler heat.I hope you & your Family have a very wonderful Christmas & a Happy New Year.
It just burns wood and I think you can burn coal. No garbage. No there is no way to tell from inside the house how much wood is burned up. Thanks👍
Keep that wood ash for the garden 🪴
Happy Holidays!
wondering did you use anti-freeze (boiler not automotive) to fill the system and auto -air eliminators? also a bladder tank for expansion/contraction so you didn't have to worry about low (water) problems? i was a boiler tech few yrs ago, did upto 5 million hp boilers.
There is no anti freeze in the system and no need for a pressure tank because it is not technically a “boiler” it is not a pressurized system. So I can add water if it is low
@Wolfpupfab okay, just wanted to know.
@@Wolfpupfab but i forgot, insurance and both agree, heating h2o IS A boiler and you should have a expansion tank with a relief valve, all just 4 your safety plz water heated EXPANDS
@@williamkechkaylo7915the tank on the top of the boiler has a loose cap so it is not a sealed system and can boil over if it has to
How much would you say your annual cost is running this system?
I know some guys that heat thier large shops with radiant floor and outdoor boilers and I don't think you'll need to add the pex to the first floor. Once that concrete gets up to temp it makes the room pretty dog gone toasty.
I'm heating a large farm house with the original wood fired gravity furnace uses a lot of wood but doesn't require power to run
Save those ashes for your local potter to make a beautiful wood ash glaze.
You should remove the insulation from your pump area, that pump needs air flow to keep it cool. Just insulate the pipes. Your pump will last longer.
That is a good tip I didn’t think about. I will be removing it
Det finns jätte fina värme förflyttar system vissa har fyrkantiga rör andra runda rör . Med termostat styrd fläkt . Då kan alla dina rum få en skön värme
I like that no smoke in the house what the price oñ this stove
I bought it used for $5,000. I think it’s somewhere around $13,000 new
Is there an option to reduce the amount of particulates going into the air?
20 year Central Boiler CL4436. You don't really need to clean that out real often. If ashes are level with the door then maybe. My Home is 2300 squ feet. We took load every 12-14 hours. If you'd put double the wood in your go 24+ hours. Also the bigger the round the longer the burn. That unit will suck the moisture out of the wood. You can put once you get a base 7-8 inch rounds in that.
I'm going to add to this. I burn 7-8 cords a year. It makes all domestic hot water. I have hot water heat with 3 heat zones. The larger the round the longer it will burn.
Nice thanks for the input👍
I think with just that single radiator unit you're not pulling a whole bunch of BTUs out of the boiler water. Yeah, add that radiant flooring and you'll definitely burn a little more wood. What is the boiler itself rated at BTU wise?
I don’t think they give them a BTU rating
@@Wolfpupfab Went to their website and was surprised to see that they don't! At least on the "Classic" series... some of the other models they do though. Wonder what's up with that? It was also interesting to see that they are now saying that the Classic series is "not to be used for residential use in the US". Probably some EPA bull5h1t I'm guessing. They never used to say that! Happy Holidays!
You probably won’t even need the radiant heat tubes on the 1st floor. I bet the basement floor will cover the whole house
That’s what I am thinking but I won’t know for sure until I try it
yeah 24° is really warm. having 30° outside you need to start the ac to cool down.
nice fake snow.
fun aside ~ i know americans are not that much into that game of emmisions but how clean is it?
Cleaner than your jokes
@Wolfpupfab not that clean. Ok would not be ok to be used here.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
there wood isnt dry..thats why they go thru it so fast
Bro, you’re letting cold come in insulate that temporary door
Why don't you get a coal base all along the bottom and then fill it completely and see how long you go with out filling it again , I bet you would go a day or more based on you only using that small radiator in the basement as your heat exchanger, definitely shows how well you insulated or how the Legos can't remember the name.of the blocks that you used to pour that basement work . Still I'm amazed at all the digging you had to do that was a lot of dirt hope building materials prices go down this year so you can finish easier .
I may try that. The basement is very well insulated however the old house above it is not insulated the greatest…yet
So it requires electricity to operate the pumps etc????
Do you have several backup generators????😮
Yes it requires electricity for the pump and damper door but they draw pretty low Watts. I do have a back up
Du kanske ska ha din ved eldade mega kamin närmare dit hus max 7 meter från huvudhuset . Då sparar du säkert massa energi 🙂
175 degrees Fahrenheit = 80 °C
How is your basement slab insulated ? is there foam under that or just a vapor barrier ?
There is 2 inches of foam under the slab
What do you have the thermostat set at?
I'm impressed, I thought that heat ex-changer fan would be running non stop.
It’s usually at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I am also surprised
@@Wolfpupfab That's impressive, and your making enough heat that it could get a lot colder and you'd be fine.
Nice ,,, How big is a chord ???
Around 600 pieces of split wood
Actually, the ashes insulate the fire from the cold water and thereby make it burn a bit more efficient, if your smoke heat exchanger is big enough, that is. With the size fire your running in that big box it most likely is. so more ashes underneath means in this configuration, more heat from the same wood into the water, and less out the chimney... but we're talking like 5% maybe, probably way less. Depending on your heat exchanger design and such. The physics behind this is, that you want the fire to burn inside a fireclay chamber, so it burns at its absolutely highest possible temp, which will lead to a burn with almost no ash, and then take the heat out of the exhaust gases after it leaves the fireclay camber... Those exchanges surfaces therefore stay clean, and in the end, you fire 20 cords and have a shovel of ashes and no stove cleaning. Not like 2 cords and half a skidsteer bucket full, and lots of carbon buildup on the fire box surfaces insulating the fire from the water, like you have it right now, thats all the energy you did not get.... but thats in the design of those big lumpy old fire boxes.... if you really want to get top-notch stuff, go talk to Austrian wood stove builders, but they may not give you all the paperwork for code compliance in the US.... I tried to import one to Canada, and I failed miserably to import a 15% more efficient and way cleaner burning oven due to code requiring some paperwork the manufacturer cant supply as they dont intend to sell any time sooon to the Americans, all the way from Isla Hornos Chile to Nunavut Canada... I dont understand that either, but then, thats their business decision, not mine.
a recommendation: i would cycle the circulation pump with the fan motor. no need to heat the ground for 75% of the time your fans not taking heat out of the radiator (you said its only running like 15 mins in an hour...). no matter how well insulated the underground pipe is....
just for comparison: we insulate with 10 inches and more between ambient and outside, and seldom see below freezing temps. so i personally would consider that underground pipe to be terribly bad insulated. my own roof has 81cm of insulation, 22 between the rafters, 8 on top, then the wind barrier, and then a rain tight, compressed, wood wool, 50cm thick layer, on top, underneath the rafters i got 2 cross glued layers of 1/2" OSB and some MDF paneling.... so were talking about in excess of 30 inches of insulation here, for a mostly 25K temp drop... your water is 175 to 50, its a 125F (70K) temp drop and you got what, 3 inches on a 30m run? brrr, looks like your wood is for free, but i dont consider logging and splitting my hobbies, so i would not think of it as for free. by cycling the circulation pump you cut out on all the losses while the fans not run for heating, well thats not entirely true as the probably 3 gallons in the pipe will cool to 50f, but better that than keeping it hot constantly.
Those outdoor boilers would really anoy me on serveral levels.
first every time you open that door your head is inside a smoke plum... and your smelling like your a fire pit worker all winter long. probably good if you dont like showering, but then, i know of no women that would want THAT on the sheets next to her...
second, to tend to it, you have to leave the comfy warm building, just imagine your sick with what ever, whos going to fire that outdoor boiler for you, you on crutches in 3 ft of snow and ice, while a blizzard comes down? thanks but no thanks, thats not for me.
hope it works for you though. :-) I like your factuall content. keep it coming.
En ask låda under eldstaden vore det perfekta . Då slapp du gräva ut aska .
Is the OSB on the floor of your addition Advantec subflooring?
Yes
@ i worked for a builder on the coast of Maine and we put Advantac down on his floor and it stayed intact under snow, ice and rain.
I was very impressed! We didn’t get his home dried-in until early spring.
@@benritchsmiththat makes me feel better! I’m glad I went with it then
Hi how do I contact you for business inquiry?😊
Get a regular 20" box fan, set of low speed pointing at the heat exchanger from the far wall and just let it run.
It'll slowly move the warm air and make your set up more efficient when your main fan isn't running.
Fellow Buckeye here.
What temp are you setting the Tstat in the house?
70 degrees Fahrenheit