How to Remove, Repair, and Replace Zero Turn Front Wheel Bearings
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2022
- I had a wheel bearing going bad on my zero turn mower caster. In this video, I explain how to remove the caster, remove the old bearings, clean everything up, and replace with new bearings.
Slide Hammer (bearing puller)
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Bearings I used (you will need to check yours to verify fit, this brand has been good for me so far)
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Dead Blow
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Chisel set
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Grease gun
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Grease gun attachment I cant live without
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vise
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Yay!!! You passed the 1k. So awesome!! Great video. Maintenance is important. You make it look so simple. Lol
I was excited when I hit 1k! Thank you! 😊 it wasn't to bad except for that dust seal. That thing was a pain! But hey I'd rather it be a tight fit then loose. Thanks for checking it out. Hopefully soon I'll get to the doggie bath we talked about a long time ago. I've already bought everything to do it, just haven't had the time!
Looking forward to seeing it. Sure it will be great
Very helpful video!
I'm glad you got something out of it. That's what it's all about! Thank you for checking out my video and for leaving a comment.
Great video ! Thanks.
You’re very welcome.
thank you for posting the vid
You’re very welcome. Thanks for checking it out!
Well done!
Thank you!
Was wanting to see what order you put bearings back in, but you fast forward it through the main parts 🤨
Pretty much you get the bearings out, pull the races out, press the races in, and put the bearings in the races. The seals just tap right in. I wish it was easy as it sounds. The races are tapered and the bearings can only sit in them one way. When you get to taking yours apart you'll understand what I mean.
hey bro, thanks for the video. I saw you used 2 different size sockets when tapping in the grease seal what were the 2 sizes? You mentioned 1 was 1and 1/4" but not the size of the other one
You're welcome! Best thing to do is look at the OD of your seal. It will tell you the specs. Once you figure that out, find the next smallest size socket. I would go out and check to be sure, but a lot of these casters are different sizes and i'd hate to give you the wrong information.
Could I just drive the bearing out from the other side rather than using a slide hammer/bearing puller? Don’t know if I have a vice that’s up for the task of holding it
Sorry for the late reply. You have to pull these things out, the race is pressed into the housing. You can also try getting a thin long chisel and hammering it out from the other side but that might be difficult because of the width of the wheel. If you look on amazon they have a bearing puller kit that you use an actual socket to pull the race out. Issue is it's about 45 dollars or so. I had to save up and buy one of these to do the front wheel bearings on my truck.
how long do you expect new bearings last?, I have different bearings, that have very small rollers, I just replaced the wheel assemblies and paid the big bucks
It seemed like on average I was able to squeeze around 500 hours out of them. They probably should’ve been changed earlier but I wanted to squeeze every penny out haha I even bought a new set of wheels like you did thinking it would last longer and I got around 500 out of those as well.
Hey thanks for the video my concern is how did you get off that other side's bolt with the sleeve stuck on the I have the same problem right now and I've been hammering the shit out of that bolt with a two-by-four and a small mini Sledge and I cannot get it to come out I'm about to order a new bolt and just cut it off what did you do on that case
I had that happen one time. Somehow the grease wasn’t reaching that area and the darn thing seized to the sleeve. I had to use a combination of heat from a torch and penetrating fluid to break the connection. You have to be gentle with it because if you beat on it to much it will deform the sleeve and you’ll either have to run it through a lathe to true it up or get a new one. I’m sorry you’re having to go through that it’s a real pita
@@reallifetested2605 for the next guy I thought I would say if the bolt welds itself to the sleeve I cut the bolt & sleeve with a saws all. I also use a long large punch/ drift to knock the race out from the other side. My cheetah was so bad the seal sleeve was also stuck n the wheel.
What is the oil your using
I usually use lucas green n tacky or red n tacky. I don't remember which I was using in this video but it was probably one of those two.
Will this cause the steering to veer right or left?
I wouldn't imagine, I guess anything is possible though. When the bearings go bad the wheel normally gets a wobble to it. I demonstrate that in the video, you will also hear a slight grinding noise in the wheel. If its pulling one direction it sounds like something needs to be adjusted (if it's not a spinning caster) or something may be bent.
Yea if its lop-sided enough it will
Looks like those bearings haven’t been lubed in ten years. Take care of your equipment and it will last forever.
I grease them every couple of days. That's what happens when bearings go bad and you continue to use them. If you use equipment it won't last forever. If you sit it in a garage and let it collect dust it will last forever.
All that talking and you time-lapse the most important part.... Wtf
I looked through to see what I time lapsed (I couldn’t exactly remember) The only part I fast forwarded was when I was beating the races out. I used the chisel and hammer, it would’ve been awful for you to listen to that. As well as beating them back in. You just tap them in until they’re seated. As far as the bearing goes it just sits into the race. The seal goes over it.
You could have left the raiser in there, the thing that takes the most wear and tear is the bearings, spacer & cover cap
I could have. But my ocd would not allow haha I wish they would’ve made these things a little heavier duty like with the larger caster on the 61” and up mowers. I think this smaller caster is too weak.
Dropped in to see if you used a press or a hammer.....
I have two of these to do here in Australia on my Z554 as the pre delivery was obviously not include a grease fill of these..
I only pumped in about 10 squirts at a time and that was obviously not enough grease... and two bearings blew out..
But wait... there is not even a diagram or part listed in the users books???
Husqvarna obviously expect you to replace the whole wheel???
I googled and found a kit for the caster wheels - yeah in America...
My seller/agent said they are on "back order" and expect in mid May...
This is the type of service we get at this time in Australia... from Husqvarna???
They are quite happy to sell you a $15,000 AUD unit, but the first time I need parts.... FAIL
I am out of action with my machine until the new parts hopefully arrive, next month...
They were ordered in March...
Jim
🤨🤨
These weren't to bad, I have since purchased a bearing extractor on amazon because I recently changed the wheel bearings on my truck and didn't want to damage anything beating on it. If you didn't have a need for it instead of spending the extra money a hammer and chisel works just fine. It probably takes the same amount of time honestly by the time you get everything out and setup.
I'm sorry you're having issues receiving your bearings, there is nothing more frustrating than having to wait on parts and having a machine down. I have seen that a lot here lately. I recently had to replace a starter on my mower. I couldn't find a rebuild kit anywhere online. A few years ago you could frequently find them for less than 20 usd. Now they're wanting you to purchase a new starter for over 160 dollars. I purchased a cheaper chinese unit for around 50. Ended up having to take the internals out and put them in my original unit because the housing didn't quite bolt up to my mower correctly. I got lucky that everything worked out the way it did. Good luck on receiving your parts and getting your machine back up and running!