Installing Vinyl Door Trim on the Entry Door - Detailed Instructions
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- Опубліковано 17 сер 2017
- YOU ASKED FOR IT! Installing vinyl door trim (brickmold) on the exterior door. Follow along as I show you detailed step by step instructions on how to replace your worn out and weathered exterior wood trim and replace it with new maintenance free vinyl pvc trim (brick mold) NO MORE SCRAPING AND PAINTING!
Viewers that have seen my previous vinyl trim video have asked for more of an instructional video, rather than a demonstration. Well here it is!
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Link to condensed vinyl trim video:
• Installing Vinyl Door ...
Link to "Speed Cutting" video
• Quick Pro Tip SPEED CU...
Link to materials I used:
Veranda Trim Board
www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-1-...
Vinyl Brickmold (door trim):
www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandri...
Music by Joakim Karud / joakimkarud
The song used in the video is titled "Dreams" - Розваги
Great video! I have been agonizing over either paying someone to do this for our back door or tackling the project myself. You have really spelled out the process in easy to follow terms. Here goes nothing...
Richard Hubbard, you got this brother! I love hearing comments like this and getting feedback when i'm helping others. Be sure to post a pic of your finished project to my Facebook page when your finished!
Do not use foam insulation.
@@paulmacfarlane207 in our region foam is very popular and used widely...you just have to make sure your using the right product for the job so you dont blow the jambs out.
@@BrandonLund I'd use the foam if I wasn't so concerned somebody would accidentally igniting it 😃 Is that stuff as flammable as the can describes or is the manufacturer being extra cautious?
Robert I've never heard of it catching fire but I think the danger is greatest when it's wet being applied
One other tick my dad showed me a few years back is to leave roughly a 1/8” reveal between the brick molding/trim and door casing whenever possible. This helps lay out a nice clean caulk line.
Thanks for your video and time. It was very helpful.
Great tip and thank you for watching!
Awesome! As a weekend warrior home repair dude who wants to do things the right way, this is just what I was looking for. Thank you!
Glad to help! @JD L 👍
Great video and well detailed. Also you’re great for replying to most of the comments and not leaving any questions unanswered. Dallas Texas.
Thanks man I appreciate your support. I really enjoy interacting with the viewers so I try and do my best to respond to everyone. It doesn't always work out but I try.
Great idea using the nailer cam and the caulk cam, really teaches me exactly how to do both! Thanks Brandon!
Thanks Tracy and good luck with your project! You can always upload pictures of your completed project on my facebook account. Lund DIY Builds. Thanks for your support!
@@BrandonLund I really didn't like it myself, made me dizzy especially at the fast tempo.
A very easy to watch, informative instructional video. I especially liked the little "tool cam" footage. Nice touch.
robert pearson Thank you very much for the great comment and I'm glad you liked the tool cam footage. It took a bot of work to make it all come together :)
Very good video dude. I was about to buy wood brick molding and trim pieces to repair some rotting wood until I saw this....this will definitely be the way to go with vinyl.
Glad I could help man!
Can't wait to do this....Thanks Brandon!!
+T Mcl Thanks and glad I could help! :)
Great Job....Thanks for providing both detailed and overview options for both types of viewers....excellent idea 💡 ! Also, nice of you to point out to those with less tools that home improvements don't NEED more advanced tools and can be done with some basics. Keep up the great content, new viewer and subscriber.
Thanks Anthony I appreciate it!
Thanks for taking the time to do this. I learned a lot. Mike from St. Louis.
Thanks Mike!
Great, very informative. Thanks for the extra detail.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate your support
Brandon Lund Thank you for this video.I was looking until found you to have
idea to do my door trim.
Very good tutorial.3/23/2019
Thank you! Glad I could help!
Nice. Can't wait to try this at home.
+Tsunami101st Thanks buddy! No more painting FOREVER!
Thanks for the info. I think we'll use vinyl for finishing an outer door on our raised ranch. Previously there was aluminum sheeting bent in to fit.. This looks much nicer and we don't need a sheet metal brake! The door was a couple hundred so splurging on the outer trim a little more makes since because we are doing it ourselves.
+Kevin Holmes I completely agree! The metal clad is nice, but in my opinion this looks better and doesn't dent / scratch like the aluminum. Set it and forget it! :) Good luck with your project Kevin :)
Great video! The door is exposed to the elements, maybe you can recommend and build a small wood awning which would be a great diy project to make a video of. Maybe an easy gable or leantoo wood awning. Thanks again for the tutorial, hope to hear from you and feed your back!!!
Great tip thank you!
love the chill hop in this vid
Thanks!
caulk cam shot is so cool
Thanks man!
Awesome, clean craftsmanship, well done!
Thanks man!
Thanks for showing the detail and the tip in using wire cutter to pull the nail!
I'm glad I could help :)
As someone who’s been through a home invasion, where a man kicked my door completely in frame and all, thank you for the security tip. I’ll be doing that tomorrow.
Thank you! I'm glad to help
Thanks. Very instructional video.
Thanks for watching
Thank you for this. I want to replace mine but scared. You make it seem so easy, thank you!
You can do it!
Thanks! that was awesome
Thanks James!
Yes on wire cutters for pulling nails! This video really helped me because I replaced my patient sliders and didn't like the old aluminum trim.
Glad i could help. Thanks for watching!
Patient sliders? Lol. Patio sliders.
@@Infrared1967 hahaha I knew what you meant 👍
You are the man!!!
Thanks brother!
Good job. Great video...
Thank you very much
Awesome video. thank you buddy
You bet 👍
Helpful, thanks 👍
Thank you very much! I appreciate you commenting and watching!
good job sir !
Thank you!
Would love to see you change out the molding of a bay window. Thank you!
I will see what I can do! Thanks for watching!
Like it. Thanks bud
Anytime! Glad I could help~
Good job. You added a furring strip in case you need to replace the door in the future without the need to remove the whole panel; however, I would take that to the next level by integrating the furring strip into the board and making it even more weather tight without the need for extra caulking. Do the following: 1) Make the panel the full width from siding to the door. This includes the width of the panel including furring strip. 2) Measure on the backside of the board near the edge of the door, the width of the furring strip along the whole length of the board. 3) Run the board through the table saw with the blade 1/8 inch shy of cutting through to the other side. This makes for a face side of the board that is seamless from end to end, and two separate sections on the backside. 4) Now you can install the full board with the end nearest to the saw cut groove right next to the door and seal around it. If you ever need to replace the door in the future ... 1) You can score the length of the board along the face side with a blade to cut through into the channel you created with the table saw, and remove only integrated furring strip side of the board nearest to the door. 2) Reinstall the furring strip pieces after installing the new door and seal with caulk the way you did in your video. The integrated furring strip is available in the future only if you need it and it allows for a better weather seal and solid installation while you don't yet need to use the furring strip.
Thats a great idea! Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for a no-nonsense video. We've got a 1926 Craftsman that needs some serious updates and the trim around the doors (and basically all exterior) needs to be redone and I'm seriously considering vinyl. Great video!
+Dane Kaylor Thank you! Its a bit pricy up front, but you will NEVER have to paint again (or worry about rot) When I get older, I may not be able to paint, so that was another reason. What you saw done in the video cost around $100.00 usd in materials. Not bad considering the cost of paint over the coarse of a lifetime.
Absolutely, and at least for us it'd cost nearly as much to pay a professional to trim it out for us, doubling the price for an afternoon's worth of work.
+Dane Kaylor Right On, and this is an easy diy project so you can save some money! Thanks for watching and good luck on your project!
Great video thx
Thank you very much!!!
Lowfi hm? I see you too are a man of culture.
I try :)
Great video! Just wondering...I have a older home that I will be changing and exterior door. My question is...is it always good practice to leave the old molding under the brick mold, or should everything come off and be replaced? Thanks for any help!
Thank you! I would only remove the moldings below if you are concerned that moisture could get trapped and rot or cause mold. I sealed mine up tight so I wasn't concerned.
Thank you- Your video saved a lot of misery.
Glad i could help :)
Great video .. need a cold one cam tho 😂💪🏼💯
Hahaha true that brother!
nice job
Thanks Dan! 👍
You should do a video about security door installation. But when you run into the door trim problem. I have a molding around my door that needs to be removed and replaced before a security door can even be installed because the security door won’t install flat. Anyways I couldn’t find any security door install videos explaining how to deal with this for guys how to do know better than to foresee these problems. It would help and probably give you a lot of views
Excellent suggestion! Thank you!
I wouldn't use 16 or 18 gauge nails for pneumatic guns to nail on exterior trim, especially thicker pieces like brick mold. I've found that they move in our hot summers and cold winters. Use trim screws, or you'll be back re-nailing the trim in a year or two.
So far so good though. The caulking seems to act as an adhesive which I think helps prevent that
They "HAVE TO BE " Steel . NOT Deck screws. Deck screws snap at the neck of the screw VERY Easily & will defeat the purpose of extra long screws.
Smart move using the PVC trim board and furing it out. I need to install screen door.
Thanks man!
Great video! Just curious, is there any other reason for not running the width all the way to the door jamb, besides future door replacing? Thanks!
Kelly, that's really the only reason. Thanks for watching :)
Nice door
Thank you!
Great vidio
Thank you Fernando!
Who are the people giving this a thumbs down? Great video...great editing...well done sir.
Thank you! 🙏
pvc glueon the corners and there are special screws for pvc with tops so you have a better finish
Good to know! Thank you!
Nice job on showing the entire process of PVC cellular products. My question is minor, but would a cut of 15 - 22 degrees (angled measurement) at the bottom to match the door sill plate? I know it is sealed with caulking, but I had to ask. Clicked like!
Hey Dean, good question, you could angle the cut but where as it was hanging over the end I didnt bother. Thanks for the like!
10:28 Finish nails are not enough to anchor that weight. Always use screws to attach the brickmold leg on which the storm door will hang.
Make it look so easy
Thank you, but It's really not much more difficult than what you see.
Looks great! Wish I could do something like that. Sadly, I have a cinder block home and can't nail anything. Ugh. Not sure what to do about it. Thanks anyway!
Thank you! At least you don't have to worry about wood rot like we have to in our region. Thanks for watching!
The trim can be glued,no nails needed. Just work out a way to hold pieces until glue dries. A couple of dabs of hot glue with regular adhesive works in a lot of cases. Imagination is important in developing techniques.
Great tip! 👍
Quick question on screen door install , did you use long screws to go through vinyl molding to framing structure .also thanks for the video because I too was thinking about hiring someone to do this but I think I will give it a try myself now.
I didn't but its not a bad idea. If I was using an aluminum screen door with a flange i would have. It would allow me to hide the screw under the flange. Where as this screen door is nowhere near as heavy as one of the aluminum doors with glass I used caulking as the sealant/ adhesive and a good amount of nails. If your installing one of the doors with glass i would use a total of 3 screws on the hinge side.
Thanks for sharing! Question for you. Do you find the "strike plate" for the screen door interferes with turning the knob on the main door? They looked rather close to one another.
Thanks for watching. We've never had a problem and guests have never said anything either. It feels and works like it should.
@@BrandonLund Hey awesome, thanks for the feedback! Keep up the great content.
Wicked tutorial. Have you ever encountered a wall that isnt plumb? New door imstalled has to sit out or in 1/2 proud so as to no swing inwards.
Unfortunately I have. I typically install the door level and plumb and add furring strips to make it dye into everything around it if it's way out of wack. It takes a little more time, but when the door is open. It doesnt creep shut. Are you from New England by chance? The reason i ask is the term "wicked" isnt used much south of New Hampshire.
@@BrandonLund Yeah but my boy is wicked smaaaaat
what saw blade is he using, thank you for the details
Im using a Dewalt trim blade
If you cut the PVC lengthwise, does it look the same on the inside as the outside? I need 9 in. boards and they only have 10 in. I'm wondering if it will look okay of I but 10 in. and then run an inch off on a table saw?
It's very close. I think it would look fine. If you can take a screenshot of the thumbnail and then zoom in on it, that's what it looks like if you ripped it on a table saw. It's still composite but it does look slightly different than the smooth shiny face.
Wish you were in St Louis
It would be expensive, but not impossible 😁
Nail holes....fill with caulk also? And, did you (have you) painted this material?
Yes the holes you can just caulk. I believe you can paint this but I have not because by leaving it natural (like vinyl siding) I've eliminated painting for good.
What type of sill material would you use if say your floor sill was decayed by water. Is a 2x6 framing stud okay or do you need 2x6 pressure treated type with a flashing ontop it before setting a prehung door and theeshold?
If there is a chance of water I would go with pressure treated
Awesome video. Stupid question do you putty the holes then paint it or use a white putty and hope it isn’t noticeable?
Thanks buddy! I don't paint the trim. I just keep it natural so I don't have to deal with chipped paint later down the road. As far as the nail holes go, I just work a dab of 100% bright white silicone over the nail holes and call it done.
How many nails on the brick mound? And how close to the top and bottom should the nails go? Also, how long were your nails for the brick mound? Thanks.
I put a lot because I have a screen door im attaching to it. My nails are spaced about every 8" and they are 2 1/2" long. I keep the head about 1/2" in from the face.
1st half was great but unfortunately I got lost in the second half starting when the camera was not recording. Ugh. On to find another video 🥲
@ladyclermont I wasn't aware the camara didn't record. Must be on your end
Brandon: What size nail and gun are you using in this video. TX!!!
I'm using a Dewalt - amzn.to/2W4tu3y with 18 guage 2" galvanized nail.
If you wanted to fill the nail holes, what product would you use that would keep the vinyl look?
steven byars I just use 100% bright white silicone. They probably make other stuff but I’ve had good luck with it.
Varathane wood putty, or similar oil-based filler. It won't shrink like other fillers, and it's super-easy to apply.
Great vid.. I have an issue, any help would be much apprech.... Ordered new storm door for front but was waiting on contractor (now fired) to install. Gave 36" for order based on measurements from old contractor; storm door frame is about an 1.5" too wide???? What's best way to make it work? Returning is not really an option now, plus I don't have access to the pick up the contractor used to pick it up with me. New contractor says he'll try to retrofit by cutting back some on each side. Is that best way? Can I use same molding as interior, if I paint with exterior paint?? Thanks so much for any answers, I tried to project manage this but things are getting out of my control and never been down this road before.
Without actually seeing it, its hard to say but generally the rough opening is about 1 1/2" inches wider than your door and the door is measured by measuring the actual door slab itself. If I were trying to make it fit and returning was not an option it would be difficult to remove framing without compromising the strength. Im hoping for your sake it will fit. Expect to have both inside and outside moldings off in this scenario
@@BrandonLund Contractor also going to reinforce space between frame and studs of house to beef it up; hope that is strong enough or I'm SOL. Life's given me plenty of lemons this time around!!!
I know the feeling well. Hang in there it can only better!
It turned out fine.. still to child to paint the brick mold, but everything works as it should, THANK YOU JESUS🙏🏼
A little stuck on the part where you put the 4-1/2 and 4-3/4 face trim over the old board. How come you didn't have to remove the old board? In the beginning of the video, what you were removing was the inner trim, the furring trim, right? I didn't see you remove the old face trim. Or, you did but it wasn't in the video?
@Kung-Fu Mojo the vinyl siding J-Channel that runs around the perimeter of the door casing was sitting proud of the original wood moldings and I did not like the look of it that way. By putting the vinyl moldings on top of the original wood moldings it made it so that the J-channel did not protrude past the face. Then I just had to rip some thin furring strips to make up the gap between the frame and the vinyl. I could have removed the original wood then built thicker furring strips to accomplish the same look but leaving the old board accomplished what I was trying to achieve in my specific application without creating additional work that wasn't necessary.
How do you hide and make the NAIL marks blend in nicely on the trim?
@IQ it's only because the nails are very small. You could use a dab of caulk though but I didn't
What about the 45* joints? Those are always hard to get to mate neatly.
They can be but if you take your time it will look great
what size were the brads you used on the brickmold pieces?
I believe I was using 18 gauge x 2 1/2" if I remember correctly
Can you put silicone in between the casing and framing instead of expanding foam?
NO ONE wants to grab your PU55Y I suppose you could but I think the foam probably has better insulating properties but something is better than nothing.
Brandon Lund Thanks! I’ve been an electrician for 15 years and recently traded my buddy some electrical work for carpentry. He built exterior steps for my side door (3 steps) and the railings/pillars are right in front of the brickmold, which is rotting
@@slappadabass3290 I love bartering too. This stuff is awesome! It looks like it did the day I installed it.
Curious how much reveal did you leave from the edge to the brick mould? 1/8, 1/4?
It's about 1/4". I use a carpenter pencil as a guide to set the reveal rather than a tape.
I did a 1/4" and guess what .... A standard (32") screen door didn't fit. I had to rip it all off and give it a 1/2 for the screen/storm door to fit. I was so mad. Lesson learned......
That sucks. Maybe I got an oddball or something. Mine is pretty much 1/4" all around.
Is it possible to use screws for the mounding and trim pieces?
Absolutely! 👍
Question: I was looking at PVC brickmold to replace damaged would brickmold. Like yours, the PVC has a "trough" area in the middle of the back surface unlike wood which is completely flat. The time lapse during nailing was kind of fast, but I think you ran nails on both sides of that trough. Is that the case? Is that PVC brickmold the 1 1/4 X 2? Also, do I need a particular tooth style on a saw blade for PVC? I don't have a table saw. Thanks.....
Yes I nailed 2 rows on the standard brickmold. I just used a fine tooth blade to cut mine with no issues.
@@BrandonLund Do you know why the PVC has that trough on the back instead of just being flat?
It's so if your jamb sticks beyond or is shy of flush, it won't rock. It's a relief so it sits against the material better. If you look close, most wood brick mold hss it too.
If you could, I'd appreciate some clarification. Around the 1:50 mark of your video you state the trim will be REPLACED (the pieces you end up measuring to be 4 1/2" and 4 3/4" wide.) But, further on in the video you don't replace them, you only put the vinyl over the rotted wood. I saw your answer to another person asking "Why cover up the old trim instead of replace it?" but wanting it to look better doesn't explain why you'd cover up rotting wood instead of replacing it. Thanks in advance!
Initially I was going to replace everything, but as I started to dig into everything, it seemed unreasonable to tear out all those nice painted trim pieces (only to put on new pieces) just because a small section of the bottom was bad, so I chose to leave them in place. Whenever you take on your own projects (emphasis on your own property), you have to balance what your willing to spend, how involved your willing to get and ultimately whats the return for your effort. For me, I determined to leave the pieces in place, (yes I could have cut out the bad section but it would not serve a purpose unless the reason they rotted to begin with was fixed) I corrected the problem (trees shading the wood / moisture wicking into the end grain - It's open on the back side as you can see, so air is getting to it). Ultimately I wanted a maintenance free surface that will last my lifetime without spending any more money than I already had. I believe I have accomplished what I set out to do. The younger me would have replaced everything...the older me weighs out the cost / time vs. benefit. Thanks for watching! Cheers!
Got it! Thanks!
👍
Thanks! 😁
Vinyl products are such a high price. I wanted to replace my window sill with vinyl product, but can't afford.
+S Robin That's the bad part of vinyl. Thanks for watching :)
It is like brick work. It will pay for itself in years to come. With wood now, the rot starts with the first rain and it will be replaced again. I have to pay for all this kind of work now due to my age and that adds up quick. The hard part is finding someone who can and will do the jobs.
I counted 18 nails on each vertical Brickmolding.
Awwww man...I was shooting for 20 so the trim would support the weight of the screen door. I'll go back and shoot a couple more just to be safe. Thanks for the heads up 👍@Peter Servon
The only thing I would have liked more of was the use of the grooves on the back..
Great point @D D
Brandon
How long should it take to finish a job like this.
It all depends. If your pretty handy, have a decent selection of tools and don't run into any underlying issues you could get it done in a couple hours. If your new to this and it seems a bit intimidating, you can get done in a weekend.
@@BrandonLund Thank you Brandon. It was a very educational video.
Your welcome 🙏!
i just replace the brickmold on my 50 year front door with miratec trim. and after installing, painting etc, i am just realizing that i have no clue on the screw holding capabilities of this trim if i want to add a storm door. i was looking at the larson doors which are quite heavy and are attached to the brickmold. you installed a screen door on this pvc trim but that door is much lighter. does anyone know of the screw holding power of miratec trim. i can't find info on their website. I'm thinking i may have to replace the molding i just put up with wood brickmold.
I have a Larson on my main entry door. On the hinge side I used 4 - 3 1/2" long stainless steel screws through the brickmold making sure to place them UNDER the screw flange of the storm door so they are concealed.
@@BrandonLund thank you for reply this is very helpful. Makes sense with using longer screws to ensure you hit the jamb. thank you
How about video installing a door in block wall?
We don't have many concrete or block buildings in our region. I've done it on commercial jobs, but it's been a while.
Had to do this myself last year. Basically its the same as installing into wood but you use masonry anchors instead of regular screws. As I'm sure you have found out, there aren't many resources online showing how to install a front door into a block house.
Same thing as wood. Use 3" tapcons to fasten. Do not forget to check county/city CODe. We have to drive a LOT of fasteners down here in FL.
I took my brick mould off as it was uneven and not enough clearance for new storm door. My bricks aren’t even any idea on how to trim and level existing brick mould
@miss nawlins is the door frame in crooked? Normally the edge of the brickmold follows the edge of the door casing but set in about 1/4"
@@BrandonLund frame is straight the bricks are crooked next to it. The old storm door never shut properly
If I am understanding you correctly, you could use a compass and scribe along the brick. Here is a basic video I found ua-cam.com/video/xtYObtXLcjo/v-deo.html
Great name you’ve got. lol
Thanks! Yours isn't too shabby either! 😉😁
There is no drip cap on the door and there's virtually no overhang. I wonder why he didn't fix this when he had the chance.
It was more work than I wanted to get into and not necessary. It held up this way for the 40+ years since it was built with wood components, it should last another 40 with composite materials and the advancements of silicone sealants. It wont fail in my lifetime and that's what I was concerned with.
So bummed HD says it's not available to pick up or ship :(
Really? They stock it in our local stores.
@@BrandonLund yep, just looked at link. It said both options weren't available to me ☹️
@@tmorrison5965 that sucks! Maybe try Lowes? I cant remember if I said in the video, but this style of molding is often referred to as "brickmold" or in this case "composite brickmold". I'm sure your local lumber yard probably stocks something comparable. Good luck brother.
Try this. It looks like they carry a different brand now. www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-1-1-4-in-x-2-in-x-84-in-Vinyl-Brickmold-Set-3-Piece-08531-ZWS77CM1/206189572
What gauge finishing nails do you use?
16
Is the brickmould made by Veranda also?
It's been a while. I don't remember
What finish nailer you using?
@Elvis its a Bostich 16 guage SB 2in1
Starting @ 11:05 and the following 10 seconds would sound dirty if you had a British accent
You "can paint it" BUT does anyone have experience with this and how well it holds the paint??
Great comment @D S and for that reason I have not painted them. On a side note my neighbor is a professional painter and he just sparayed his vinyl sided house with paint from Sherwin Williams. I cant imagine that it will outlast a vinyl that is solid color throughout like these PVC trims but I could be wrong. Time will tell I guess.
Love the video an your great instruction, but ditch the POV cams, which may make some viewers woozy. Thanks again!
Dang Cuz, 46 nail holes to putty. I'd hate to paint behind you.
HCAC BUILD I put extra because the screen door is hanging by the trim...plus our freeze thaw climate has a tendency to work fasteners loose
Understood, I'm using PVC to build caps and bases for a client. We glued the miters with PVC glue. The columns are made of fiberglass.
Can I use screws instead of nails?
You could, its just a bigger area to fill and try to hide
@@BrandonLund Thanks. If I use nails, do I have to use a certain type? Like rust-resistant outdoor ones?
Personally my favorite are stainless steel ring shank nails but galvanized finish will work also.
Why cover up the old trim instead of replace it?
Indiana Innovation good question! I wanted the new trim pieces to sit flush or protrude slightly beyond the vinyl j-trim. That way I had an edge I could run a bead of caulking against plus It adds a little dimension and looks better in my opinion. The old trim was a little shy of the j-channel and it looked wimpy in my opinion. I think the added depth by going over the trim made a subtle difference in how the trim around the door stood out.
You could of gone all the way if you were gonna rip out door you just take off inside trim.
This door was installed new about 2 years prior. I've since sheetrocked and trimmed the interior.
Is that door jam 4 9/16
I think so
Boy do I need this done on my door, it looks horrible. No real good place for my video door bell
This is pretty nice stuff. I'm very happy with it
the downside to these is you cannot hang/attach a patio door over pvc door trim per the manufacturer
I'm guessing it's because the expansion / contraction of pvc is greater than with wood.
drip edge? j channel?
Wyna Stefanik Nope. Not possible when the brickmold is installed on top of a finished surface. 100% silicone behind the brickmold as I demonstrated will keep everything dry and tight. Run a thin bead along the j-channel at the perimeter and done.