Learn how to replace your adjustable door threshold sill for an exterior inswing door in just minutes! The Tools: 00:26 *Adjustable Door Threshold - amzn.to/3o1WxkY *Rigid Multitool - amzn.to/3f3caVh *Rigid Sawsall - amzn.to/32JIp6q *Rigid Hammer drill - amzn.to/3uCYU0s *Concrete Anchors & Screws - amzn.to/3obVPC9 * Gloves - amzn.to/3bbfEnu * Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3ux25GO * Shop Towels - amzn.to/2SC8D93 * Tape Measurer - amzn.to/3bg83nI * Painter’s Tape 1in - amzn.to/3uyt4BU * Sharpie - amzn.to/3o3CZwW * Magnetic Metal Tray - amzn.to/3hdUiJZ * Acrylic Latex Caulk (Paintable) - amzn.to/2Q5JJ0G * Caulk gun - amzn.to/3evIUHN * Large Putty Knife - amzn.to/3f2CFKx The Fix: 02:08 This video works on nearly all makes and models of doors. Please measure correctly and cut only what you need to! Check out my website at mcfixit.us Disclaimer: Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information in the video, post, blog, or social media. MC FIX IT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable at any time. Stop and go to a professional. MC FIX IT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your house, or any other project and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MC FIX IT. #mcfixit #adjustablethreshold #doorthreshold Supplies used to record this video: * GoPro Hero 7 Black - amzn.to/3f3ALtb * 256GB Flash Drive - amzn.to/33pAueG * Vlogging Frame - amzn.to/33tajE0 * GoPro Pro 3.5mm Mic Adapter - amzn.to/2RCURCu * Youmic Lavalier Lapel Mic - amzn.to/2R55sWX * Boom Stand (tripod) - amzn.to/3bdkQaw * 5/8” to 1/4” adapter (boom to blogging frame- amzn.to/3txrVsM * Portable Battery Powerbank- amzn.to/3vJQc0q * 6ft USB to USB-C (powerbank to GoPro)- amzn.to/3uAS5MH
@@djef6028 Yes you could if you can cut it down to size properly and drill the proper holes. Mine had issues with the wood and leaking underneath the sill.
Bought the exact threshold and have not a clue on how to install it. The director in the back of the label is useless! Thank you for sharing. Now I am ready to install it. Liked and subbed!💯👍
Just finished replacing my front door threshold, and this video walked me through every step. He is right when he says the toughest part is getting the old threshold out. Mine was a pre-hung door, so the original threshold was very much a part of the old door frame! The sawzall and multitool saved the day. Even after cutting the old threshold in half, it was held in by construction adhesive on the bottom and on each side by wood screws coming out sideways from the door jamb. Be careful not to tear these out; cut them off if you can. Existing flooring on the interior side was also a challenge but thankfully it wasn't too thick and I was still able to slide the new threshold in. And final lesson learned, don't use a metal hammer to nudge the new threshold in; it will mar it.
2 things, 1- A hair dryer or similar device will warm up the mastic used to glue down the base plate and make removal easier. 2 - Instead of cutting off just one end of the new threshold so it fits the doorway, take the size of the replacement and subtract the actual doorway size and then divide the result by 2 and cut off each end that distance. This will leave you with most of the adjustment screw holes rather than the one you just cut off with no adjustment capable on that side of the threshold.
Plus at the side closest to the hinges, the seal is basically unsupported by any adjustment screw. It sealed, but it could be better if that screw was there.
This step-by-step video was perfect! I had the exact same problem with an old rotted threshold on a cement base. The links to EACH product was great especially since no comment was made about the size & length of the anchors (I did have to research drill bit size because I’m a 100% amateur). So many videos cut out half the work & get confusing. The absence of directions and/or the constant extra babble often drives me crazy. Yours was perfectly narrated explaining everything so well. This truly was fantastic!
Glad im watching this before getting into the project. I was like how is it adjustable and this video is awesome! Just hope its not raining this weekend!
Thank You MC FIX IT. I'm glad I found this video. I purchased the exact adjustable threshold to replace what I currently have. I dismantled my current Threshold and found it has additional weather proofing beneath. A metal tray, gaskets, etc. It's still a similar installation. Thank You. God Bless you sir.
Great video, thank you!! I need to get this done before winter and it's been causing me a lot of stress, but now I feel confident after watching your video!
If you want to make the visible adjustment screws look better, you can trim the threshold at both ends. You can make the screws symmetrical so that there is equal distance from the screws to the end of the threshold.
I was just thinking the same… The visual is enhanced. PLUS, the threshold’s adjustable feature, can span the entire width of the door, instead of losing 25% of (1of4) the adjustment capability!! Go ahead and take the extra 5-10 minutes, to make the 2 end cuts, to separate yourself from being an amateur, and shine as a craftsman!
well if you want to "shine as a CraftsMan" better start at the supply house , as i selected the least marred packaging and did not check the screw layout. but come time for the install the screw array starts randomly .. 2" from one end on one side huge space 4-5" on the other , so select well ... the lady is super pleased ... tip ... storm doors have adjustable bottoms and the gasket is replaceable . theres "Y" and "T" one ace hardware ONLY had T and the other ONLY has Y. y and t are very similar if t looks a tiny bit to big you need y . Im might fill the holes w epoxy. i stained the wood. used 30 min bucket cement from post department. very workable and no cracks. if the others are correct at the supply house i may whine to the manufacturer to get a refund , though i know i should check first . but its sold at a DIY so ...
Fitting the new threshold between the jams should be done by cutting equal portion from each end of the strip. (Meaning if you need to take off 2 inches, just cut 1 inch off each end.) Now the new threshold will have equal adjustment screws across the whole threshold and look much better and not something amaturish.
I can't add any more than anyone else has already. I would like to add that I have a ton of tools, with the exception of a multi tool. Purchased what i needed at Lowe's and bought a oscillating tool, which turned out to make the job much easier. I used Tap cons vrs what you did. Worked out OK, but would purchase what you suggested in the future. Just like to say thank you. You made the first time job, very manageable. I liked it an subscribed. Robert TN
Best advice for thresholds I've seen. I noticed your professionalism within the first few minutes of the video when you laid out your tools firsthand and also added cement anchors! Will be using your tips and instructions when I tackle my front door. The COVID comment was unexpectedly funny 🤣.
This video helped me tremendously! I need to install one of these on my garage door before winter comes and critters try and make their way in. Thanks!
That looks like paintable caulk. I always use GE 100% silicone in the blue/silver/white tube because it's made for extreme temperature changes. You did a great job, it's almost impossible to change these when the inside floor is higher than the threshold without disrupting the flooring.
Thanks for the info! I will have to look into that for future projected. I had the paintable caulk on hand and it has worked very well for other projected. I'll look into that GE stuff thought. Thanks for the tip!
Great step-by-step, and the tool list was really helpful. I wish you had shown a horizontal view of the door closing and how it sealed from that angle.
Not supposed to hammer on it, on the finished side, on the concrete man lol. And take measurement divide by 2 and cut off both ends, unless it were to surpass 2 of the 4 screws then you take off 1 side to have 3 screws securing it. lol Once I saw the hamming of those threaded plugs or whatever I knew the lack of experience. But hopefully you learn from all these comments abd keep killin it man. Nice job Do better next time! We need youth knowing how to build! So, good work
Installation critiques: Cut both ends so that adjustment screws are centered. This allows you more fine tuned height adjustments to get a good weather seal. Looks better too. Caulk is for trim. It won’t do much under a threshold. Use generous amounts of construction adhesive instead. This will keep the threshold from flexing when it’s stepped on.
Seems like if you applied the nails adhesive to the wood plate instead of the concrete that thos would be better? My threshold is weird cause its on the basement wall I believe. I dont know if I need a new subfloor strip to anchor to :(
One would think that somebody would make just the wooden adjustable sill. Then you wouldn't have to replace the whole threshold when its just the sill that needs repair. I have this problem on 3 doors in my house. All the doors had the adjustable sill removed by a previous owner. I'm thinking there must be a way to manufacture just the sill. Any ideas?
Does the caulking keep the end of the metal portion from sticking up? I ran into this when I installed without caulking and would like to make it lie flat so it doesn't catch on any toes.
It should assist with holding it down. The screws also do that as well. If you are worried, you could put down a base of something like liquid nails meant for concrete & metal.
Wish I saw this. Just did one that wasn't attached and frame was rotted and screws that held the frame snapped off as it was just pushed into a cement opening no shims all that held it was 2 screws on each side and silicone.the sill wasn't secured at all but once it rotted wiggles out. And under it was just 2 bricks. But I did get the adjustment type sill. I have one more to do and I think its the same.
@@MCFIXIT one the frame is rotted and not square and ahimmed. So going to start that from scratch. Ill repair the jam. Its always more than they say is needed. Lol
Funny the instructions with the threshold didn't indicate exactly where the nut you hammer into the wood goes. I had to watch your video to find that out. Very helpful.
Just make sure that it helps seal it to the ground and also doesn’t allow water to go under it. I haven’t used liquid nails for this type of application only inside the house on lvp to stair treads.
Just wanted to add that a storm door saved me from this repeat repair! Replaced the door and jam 2x b/f we figured this out…sometimes the rain hitting the house needs redirected. 🙃
The side jambs are clearly rotted. Very curious and would love to know why one would go through the trouble of working around the bottom sections of side jambs, when it needs to be replaced anyway? Conversely, why not use the open opportunity to sand those areas and repair (if not replacing)? Given the history of water seepage, why not waterproof the concrete or use something other than paintable latex caulk? @MC FIX IT
I changed those out later the next year. I didn’t have an opportunity to record it. At the time, I could replace it but it’s done now and looks great! All of it is still in good working order!!!
You could to this. One question I have is what is causing the gap? Uneven floor? Door? If you can answer and possibly fix this, then there would not need to be an angle at the threshold. BUT yes, you can have each screw at differing heights.
@@MCFIXIT thanks alot for the reply! I'm helping a neighbor of mine fix her house which had a really bad foundation problem that unfortunately caused the door frames to be off square and so the gap underneath the front door has 1 3/8" on one side and 1 3/16" on the other side and I was trying to fix the gap so water stops coming into the house without having to rip into the door frame to try and straighten it.. I'm not making any money on this job nor does the homeowner have any money to pay for it so I'm trying to do the best I can without spending a ton of money.. again thanks for the help I look forward to more of your videos!
I think I know what you are referring to… was it when I was pulling off the old one? It was some sort of base that the original one had. It was most likely a different brand/design than what I could find since my house is about 20 years old now.
I would suggest getting in screwed into the ground to ensure it’s properly secured. Glue doesn’t always hold up to weather and since this is partially outside. I’d find a neighbor or someone to borrow a drill and if they have a hammer drill it will go much faster.
Just wondered if the water coming underneath the threshold was stopped. I have to do this to a basement door with a rotted threshold and would have used a lot more caulk underneath it. Looks doable.
AWESOME! JSUT AWESOME! Very well explained!!!! Thank you I have to do this for my back door to my house. I am on a slab so I will have to drill into the concrete like you explained. Thank you so much! RENMAN
You know to really professionally install that treshold it's a rubber seal that also goes to the bottom of the door itself" it extra seals from water or lil insects ! Also that hole plug & screws was cool but u can also just use tapcons or whatever works...you did a great job showing & teaching
Thanks! Yes, you can get a rubber seal. I didn't have any tapcon screws with me on this job but that's definitely a good solution as well. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yeah, my basement exterior door is in a situation that I think could use both a threshold and rubber seal. My door is located at the bottom of a stairwell, which has a drain only about a half foot in diameter. When it rains very hard for more than an hour, there's a chance the drain will get clogged from runoff debris and cause water to back up into the stairwell. My door already has a seal attached on the bottom interior side of it, but it's not quite enough. (The basement will get large puddles inside near the door once every few years on average, so it's serious, but not extremely so.) I'm hoping that installing a threshold in front of the door will block even more water from having access to under the door. I hope it can further help, even if not perfectly. On a side note, I just replaced that door's frame mostly with PVC trim boards, because most of the wooden fame within a couple feet of the ground was rotting from the prolonged moisture and water at the bottom of stairwell. (Even some parts toward the top of the frame were beginning to rot as well.) I'm hoping the PVC will hold up better against the humidity and water.
I’d def go with a good seal for your application! Also that PVC board is good around wet areas. I helped install some of that on my grandmas garage door frame bc it was a low spot on her driveway (very bad design), and it would rot about every 5 or so years. That PVC stuff has lasted over 8 years and has no signs of water damage. I wish you luck on your project!
@@MCFIXIT Thanks for the reply. If you don't mind, I have a couple follow-up questions for my situation. I'll do my best to sum it up to make this simple enough to try answering. As mentioned: we took complete care of the perimeter around the door. (That's encouraging to learn that your PVC has lasted 8+ years with zero damage.) The door already has an attachment on the bottom interior side of it. And now we're considering some kind of threshold on the exterior side of the door to keep as much water out as possible. Additional info: The bottom of my door (not accounting for the attached seal on the bottom) is about 1/2 inch above the ground. The ground is flat and made of concrete both inside and outside the door. My questions: You suggest "a good seal" for my door. Do you think attaching a rubber seal to the ground just outside the door would beat a threshold? If a threshold is a decent option, can I get away with using a threshold without wood parts? (I'm concerned wood parts would rot quickly on the exterior side of the door, where water is common and helped rot my previous wood door frame.) Thank you either way, and I do understand any advice you generously offer is free from liability.
Helpful video! The adjustment screw on one end is just spinning freely (not adjusting height). Does that mean the threaded insert is spinning freely as well and if so, is there some way to pull them both out? I've tried a small pry bar, but it's just wrecking the wood strip that I was planning to repair.
Are the washers supposed to be tight with the screws? Mine are loose enough that nothing happens when I back out the adjustment screw. I have 3/8 inch space that I can’t adjust to?
It would be the threshold of the door sill. I've heard it called a sill cap too. It is the part that helps waterproof the sill and makes contact with the bottom of the door to give you a proper seal from the outside element. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I can do this but the problem is that the double doors measure 72 inches but the opening measues 73 1/2 inches wide and the left side of the entrance is more than an inch lower than the right side, in addition to having some sort of hardware on the floor, center, for the rod which closes the left door. The doors were installed without threshold many decades ago and the floor is cement. Any advice is appreciated.
COVID Safe licking your finger. RIDICULOUS.Total over reaction. Turn of the news and enjoy life. Thanks for the video. I bought the same brand and this video helped.
My threshold is way to high and the door barely closes when I adjust the screws the center will loosen and float but the edges will not go down. Any ideas, it's very frustrating. Please help
Nice video. I have a 5 foot French door that seems to be bowing (rising in the center). Do you have a good remedy for that? It seems like replacing the entire unit would be opening up a can of worms.
No, sorry. I haven't had the opportunity to do something like that. I'd check to see if others have done this one UA-cam or hire a professional. Typically you can see if it's a doable project or not by watching others do it.
Do you have to cut it in half? Can you just use a crow bar and pry it up? I'm afraid of ruining the door frame if I do it that way, but I don't have a multitool or sawsall.
I would recommend doing it this way. Often they place a lot of chalk or liquid nails under it. This will enable you to save as much of the door jamb as possible. Often the sill is attached to the jamb on both sides with nails.
@@MCFIXIT I recently used it to remove some kind of sealant from a concrete foundation crack that was leaking. I was thinking grinder at first. But, the scraper removed it in larger pieces with less dust. I still followed up with a grinder at the end to really get back to concrete. But, I was glad I used the scraper first because the grinder was so dusty and stunk. No leaks since I injected the crack and it made me a believer in the multi-tool scraper.
We appreciate your effort in making this video. That said, we NEVER cut off one of the adjustment screw holes … period. You should’ve made your side to side measurement …subtract that from 36 inches … and then take half of that measurement from the left end and half from the right end. Your method decreased your ability to adjust to the threshold by 25% while simultaneously making those adjustments be well off center. Short of re-shooting the video… You should add a disclaimer to the front saying “sometimes you learn on the job” and that when I get to the point of cutting the oversize threshold… Cut off half the excess material from the left hand and half from the right so that you maintain all your adjustment screws and they will be centered properly. Thanks again for the effort!
You can add a layer of poly on it if you’d like. This will help out a bit. But overtime they do rot especially if wet. You might be better off with a manufactured plastic type if you can find it. They make some close wood colors today. Good luck on your project!
The washers need to be driven onto the bolt so that they are secured to the adjustment board. Flat side of washer against the wood. I used a longer 8mm socket and tamped the washer down over the bolt. This will snug the bolt to the wood and the adjustments will work correctly.
The washer they give to raise and lower the threshold does not work. it just falls off the adjusting screw. i used Jb Weld to keep the washer in place it worked well..
How well does the adjustable piece hold up to traffic? It looks like all that is keeping it up are some washers, and a big guy like me stepping on it would just push it down. If that does happen what’d be the fix, shims?
That’s what the original had and lasted 17 years. I’m a pretty big guy too. But yes, I’d say shims could be a replacement. I’d figure out the exact height and length and cut your shims downs. I’d also drill out holes and allow the hardware to be used properly. It might take a couple of tries to get the shims to the correct height and size. I think that’s why the system they use is designed like that bc it makes it quite easy to raise and lower the adjustment by simple Philips screws.
Thank you for the video. I'm going to use flexseal instead? It rains a lot here and I don't have gutters...yet (Future diy) First time trying this...Here we go.
@@MCFIXIT Ummm, LoL. Turned out to be a huge problem. As I took off the old threshold, the worse you think could happen...happened. everything under the threshold was rot. The wood was soaked. omg remember i have never done this before. It was a nightmare for me. but, I finally got it done. Now tomorrow I will put the final piece on...the new threshold.
Awesome! I'm glad you could preserver through the issues and are able to finish the project! Wood-rot is a serious issue and can lead to lots of leaks and even mold in houses. Glad you were able to fix it!
Great Video! I bought a 7 year old house in 2019. Exterior door from garage to backyard swings out. When it rains alot, or with wind blowing towards the door, water creeps into the garage. The concrete on the outside of the door under the threshold looks chipped as if someone took a chisel or power tool and tried to knock it down - like maybe reducing the overall height at the time the original foundation was poured and the door was installed. I guess the only way to know the condition of the concrete underneath the threshold is to just dive in and take the old one off? Your video is the best I have seen, and I believe I can do this project. I will probably take my big laptop and keep it nearby so I can have your video up as a guide. If I do get the old threshold off and find that the concrete underneath it looks rough and gouged out, do you have any ideas? Have you ever encountered something like this?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Sounds like a bad previous DIY. How deep is the chipping/knock down that you mention? If it’s very small and still level you might be able to just use chalk or concrete patch. If it’s really rough and broken/brittle or patch it up a bit. You may need to tear that portion and add some new concrete in that section. I know they make a small tub of concrete that you can purchase for patch work and minor repairs. Here’s a link: amzn.to/3h5QZ7c It's kinda hard to see your situation without being there. Good luck on your project!
Question: At 11:54 you drill the holes, then at 16:50 you adjust the plate to the door. Shouldn't you have done that in the reverse order? I'm confused how at 17:18 installing the screws didn't just slightly move the plate back into the positioning of the original "holes drilled" positioning rather than your "adjusted to the door closed" positioning. Thanks so much for this video, now I'm not scared to tackle it myself!!!
Learn how to replace your adjustable door threshold sill for an exterior inswing door in just minutes!
The Tools: 00:26
*Adjustable Door Threshold - amzn.to/3o1WxkY
*Rigid Multitool - amzn.to/3f3caVh
*Rigid Sawsall - amzn.to/32JIp6q
*Rigid Hammer drill - amzn.to/3uCYU0s
*Concrete Anchors & Screws - amzn.to/3obVPC9
* Gloves - amzn.to/3bbfEnu
* Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3ux25GO
* Shop Towels - amzn.to/2SC8D93
* Tape Measurer - amzn.to/3bg83nI
* Painter’s Tape 1in - amzn.to/3uyt4BU
* Sharpie - amzn.to/3o3CZwW
* Magnetic Metal Tray - amzn.to/3hdUiJZ
* Acrylic Latex Caulk (Paintable) - amzn.to/2Q5JJ0G
* Caulk gun - amzn.to/3evIUHN
* Large Putty Knife - amzn.to/3f2CFKx
The Fix: 02:08
This video works on nearly all makes and models of doors. Please measure correctly and cut only what you need to!
Check out my website at mcfixit.us
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information in the video, post, blog, or social media. MC FIX IT assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. If you feel uncomfortable at any time. Stop and go to a professional. MC FIX IT recommends safe practices when working on vehicles, your house, or any other project and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of MC FIX IT, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MC FIX IT.
#mcfixit #adjustablethreshold #doorthreshold
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* 256GB Flash Drive - amzn.to/33pAueG
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* Youmic Lavalier Lapel Mic - amzn.to/2R55sWX
* Boom Stand (tripod) - amzn.to/3bdkQaw
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Can you just replace the wood piece?
@@djef6028 Yes you could if you can cut it down to size properly and drill the proper holes. Mine had issues with the wood and leaking underneath the sill.
Great, now I've learned how to replace my adjustable front exterior door threshold sill!!!
Thanks!!!!!
Bought the exact threshold and have not a clue on how to install it. The director in the back of the label is useless! Thank you for sharing. Now I am ready to install it. Liked and subbed!💯👍
Thanks but I’m so glad it was helpful!
Yeah same, and the instructions said to install the t nuts backwards… like on the opposite side of the threshold baseboard. Weird.
Just finished replacing my front door threshold, and this video walked me through every step. He is right when he says the toughest part is getting the old threshold out. Mine was a pre-hung door, so the original threshold was very much a part of the old door frame! The sawzall and multitool saved the day. Even after cutting the old threshold in half, it was held in by construction adhesive on the bottom and on each side by wood screws coming out sideways from the door jamb. Be careful not to tear these out; cut them off if you can. Existing flooring on the interior side was also a challenge but thankfully it wasn't too thick and I was still able to slide the new threshold in. And final lesson learned, don't use a metal hammer to nudge the new threshold in; it will mar it.
Glad you got the project done! Yeah metal hammers can damage the finish. But glad you finished and the video was helpful!
Who knew something so ordinary could be so mysterious? Thanks for uncovering the mystery and making sense of how it works!
You are welcome. I hope this helps you complete your project! Good luck!
2 things, 1- A hair dryer or similar device will warm up the mastic used to glue down the base plate and make removal easier. 2 - Instead of cutting off just one end of the new threshold so it fits the doorway, take the size of the replacement and subtract the actual doorway size and then divide the result by 2 and cut off each end that distance. This will leave you with most of the adjustment screw holes rather than the one you just cut off with no adjustment capable on that side of the threshold.
Great tips here! Thanks for adding to the conversation! This will be helpful for others projects! Have a great day!
@@MCFIXIT sad thing is that you actually already knew this but decided to be lazy
Should you cut it off both ends to leave as many of the screws that hold/adjust the wood strip in place and also kind of have the screws centered?
Yes, you can definitely do this! It would help make it looked more centered. Great insight!
That was my very first thought when I saw the sharpie mark! My OCD self said "Oh no..."
That is what I was thinking!
@@MCFIXIT Granted the factory edges would be a lot straighter than what I personally be able to cut by hand!
Plus at the side closest to the hinges, the seal is basically unsupported by any adjustment screw. It sealed, but it could be better if that screw was there.
This step-by-step video was perfect! I had the exact same problem with an old rotted threshold on a cement base. The links to EACH product was great especially since no comment was made about the size & length of the anchors (I did have to research drill bit size because I’m a 100% amateur).
So many videos cut out half the work & get confusing. The absence of directions and/or the constant extra babble often drives me crazy. Yours was perfectly narrated explaining everything so well. This truly was fantastic!
I'm so glad it was helpful! Good luck on your project!
Glad im watching this before getting into the project. I was like how is it adjustable and this video is awesome! Just hope its not raining this weekend!
Hope the project went well! Thanks for commenting!
Thank You MC FIX IT.
I'm glad I found this video.
I purchased the exact adjustable threshold to replace what I currently have. I dismantled my current Threshold and found it has additional weather proofing beneath. A metal tray, gaskets, etc. It's still a similar installation. Thank You. God Bless you sir.
You are welcome! Thanks for writing. Good luck on your project!
Great video, thank you!! I need to get this done before winter and it's been causing me a lot of stress, but now I feel confident after watching your video!
Thanks! I appreciate you watching and commenting! Good luck on your project!
If you want to make the visible adjustment screws look better, you can trim the threshold at both ends. You can make the screws symmetrical so that there is equal distance from the screws to the end of the threshold.
Yes, that’s a great option! Thanks for sharing that!
I was just thinking the same… The visual is enhanced. PLUS, the
threshold’s adjustable feature, can span the entire width of the door, instead of losing 25% of
(1of4) the adjustment capability!! Go ahead and take the extra 5-10 minutes, to make the 2 end cuts, to separate yourself from being an amateur, and shine as a craftsman!
well if you want to "shine as a CraftsMan" better start at the supply house , as i selected the least marred packaging and did not check the screw layout. but come time for the install the screw array starts randomly .. 2" from one end on one side huge space 4-5" on the other , so select well ... the lady is super pleased ... tip ... storm doors have adjustable bottoms and the gasket is replaceable . theres "Y" and "T" one ace hardware ONLY had T and the other ONLY has Y. y and t are very similar if t looks a tiny bit to big you need y . Im might fill the holes w epoxy. i stained the wood. used 30 min bucket cement from post department. very workable and no cracks. if the others are correct at the supply house i may whine to the manufacturer to get a refund , though i know i should check first . but its sold at a DIY so ...
Great advice. Thank you
Fitting the new threshold between the jams should be done by cutting equal portion from each end of the strip. (Meaning if you need to take off 2 inches, just cut 1 inch off each end.) Now the new threshold will have equal adjustment screws across the whole threshold and look much better and not something amaturish.
I can't add any more than anyone else has already. I would like to add that I have a ton of tools, with the exception of a multi tool. Purchased what i needed at Lowe's and bought a oscillating tool, which turned out to make the job much easier. I used Tap cons vrs what you did. Worked out OK, but would purchase what you suggested in the future. Just like to say thank you. You made the first time job, very manageable. I liked it an subscribed. Robert TN
Thanks for your comment and sub! That’s a big project to tackle. Glad you were able to complete it too!
Best advice for thresholds I've seen. I noticed your professionalism within the first few minutes of the video when you laid out your tools firsthand and also added cement anchors! Will be using your tips and instructions when I tackle my front door.
The COVID comment was unexpectedly funny 🤣.
Thanks so much! Best of luck on your project!
Heading to Lowes now to tackle this project! Thanks so much for the information I'm feeling confident we can do this!
How'd the project go?
Thanks so much. Great video. Now I feel more confident tackling this project.
Go for it! Thank you for watching, and commenting!
This video helped me tremendously! I need to install one of these on my garage door before winter comes and critters try and make their way in. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful. Good luck on your project!
Fantastic video was very helpful in replacing the threshold. Thank you!
So glad you found it helpful! Thanks for commenting too! Hope you have a great day!
Thanks for the awesome instructions. This will be my project tomorrow and it is exactly what I needed.
Glad it was helpful
Good informational how- to , I tried to zero in on the size screw/ anchors you used.
Concrete Anchors & Screws - amzn.to/3obVPC9
That looks like paintable caulk. I always use GE 100% silicone in the blue/silver/white tube because it's made for extreme temperature changes. You did a great job, it's almost impossible to change these when the inside floor is higher than the threshold without disrupting the flooring.
Thanks for the info! I will have to look into that for future projected. I had the paintable caulk on hand and it has worked very well for other projected. I'll look into that GE stuff thought. Thanks for the tip!
7️⃣? 😂
Threshold on my garage door is rotted out, looking all over on the internet on how replace/to fix it, I didn’t know they sell a kit, thanks sharing.
You are welcome. Good luck with your project!
Great step-by-step, and the tool list was really helpful. I wish you had shown a horizontal view of the door closing and how it sealed from that angle.
Thanks so much. I’ll try to do this for future videos.
Found your shower light install vid. I need to change out a threashold also so this came in handy. Sub'd
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
Great tutorial on how to replace threshold. I feel super confident now to install one in my kitchen door. Look forward to viewing your other videos.
Thanks so much! I hope it’s helpful and you have great success in your project!
Thank you for making this door threshold sil video. I need to know how to get the sill to the ground.
Are you asking how to fasten it to the ground? I used anchors and screws. You could also use tapcon screws too.
Thank You so very much now I am able to install my Frost King 36 in x 5.25 in Adjustable Threshold Weatherstrip
Best of luck on your project! Thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks !! Very useful and easy to follow video.
Thanks so much! Hope your projects goes well!
Very helpful and deep explanation for the project! Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful! Good luck on your project!
I need one of those multi-tools!
Yes, they are so helpful in a variety of situations.
So many uses they r great!
Not supposed to hammer on it, on the finished side, on the concrete man lol. And take measurement divide by 2 and cut off both ends, unless it were to surpass 2 of the 4 screws then you take off 1 side to have 3 screws securing it. lol Once I saw the hamming of those threaded plugs or whatever I knew the lack of experience. But hopefully you learn from all these comments abd keep killin it man. Nice job Do better next time! We need youth knowing how to build! So, good work
Thanks for the tips! I’m sure this will be helpful for others too
How about the last piece the one you did cut with a lot of glue under to seal the threshold ?
Thanks .You just helped me do my threshold. 👍💯
You are welcome. I’m glad it was helpful
Installation critiques:
Cut both ends so that adjustment screws are centered. This allows you more fine tuned height adjustments to get a good weather seal. Looks better too.
Caulk is for trim. It won’t do much under a threshold. Use generous amounts of construction adhesive instead. This will keep the threshold from flexing when it’s stepped on.
Great advice, thanks for sharing!
Seems like if you applied the nails adhesive to the wood plate instead of the concrete that thos would be better? My threshold is weird cause its on the basement wall I believe. I dont know if I need a new subfloor strip to anchor to :(
That's def an option. My biggest issue was sealing out the water and that's why I used caulk.
One would think that somebody would make just the wooden adjustable sill. Then you wouldn't have to replace the whole threshold when its just the sill that needs repair. I have this problem on 3 doors in my house. All the doors had the adjustable sill removed by a previous owner. I'm thinking there must be a way to manufacture just the sill. Any ideas?
Let me know if you find out.
These only last so long and then they are shot. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Have a 6 foot opening. Have 2 side lights. How do you get all 6 foot out ?
Is this for a sliding door? I’m sure they make a 6ft sill but it might be a custom order.
Does the caulking keep the end of the metal portion from sticking up? I ran into this when I installed without caulking and would like to make it lie flat so it doesn't catch on any toes.
It should assist with holding it down. The screws also do that as well. If you are worried, you could put down a base of something like liquid nails meant for concrete & metal.
I did mine and put it the same way as it was, question thou, there is a gap in between, is there supposed to be a gap?
Where is the gap?
Wish I saw this. Just did one that wasn't attached and frame was rotted and screws that held the frame snapped off as it was just pushed into a cement opening no shims all that held it was 2 screws on each side and silicone.the sill wasn't secured at all but once it rotted wiggles out. And under it was just 2 bricks. But I did get the adjustment type sill. I have one more to do and I think its the same.
Hope you are able to complete your project! Good luck!
@@MCFIXIT one the frame is rotted and not square and ahimmed. So going to start that from scratch. Ill repair the jam. Its always more than they say is needed. Lol
What if I'm putting in a new door frame as well? Do I have to cut the frame at the right angle to match the sill?
Yes, I would match the angle of the sill.
@MCFIXIT I may not need to replace the still. But the weather stripping needs to be replaced (no wood, it's all aluminum) is this possible?
Funny the instructions with the threshold didn't indicate exactly where the nut you hammer into the wood goes. I had to watch your video to find that out. Very helpful.
Glad you found it helpful! Best of luck on your project
can i use liquid nail instead of the caulking?thanks
Just make sure that it helps seal it to the ground and also doesn’t allow water to go under it. I haven’t used liquid nails for this type of application only inside the house on lvp to stair treads.
Great video and I enjoyed your narration.
Thanks so much!
Caulking instead of SILICONE OR NP1?
Those are both great options. Thanks for adding this tip to the comment section!
Would it work to use the oscillating tool to scrape the glue off?
Yes, that would work well! Anything to break up the glue would work!
I appreciate your time and sharing your knowledge.
Thank you
You are welcome. Good luck on your project!
Just wanted to add that a storm door saved me from this repeat repair! Replaced the door and jam 2x b/f we figured this out…sometimes the rain hitting the house needs redirected. 🙃
That's a great idea. I don't really want a storm door on this particular door, but I can definitely see how this would help save the threshold sill!
Thank you so much. Loved your step by step approach. Great video!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting. Good luck on your project. Happy New Years too!
I have to replace one soon. This video was awesome 👌 and to the point
Thanks, best of luck on your project!
The side jambs are clearly rotted. Very curious and would love to know why one would go through the trouble of working around the bottom sections of side jambs, when it needs to be replaced anyway? Conversely, why not use the open opportunity to sand those areas and repair (if not replacing)? Given the history of water seepage, why not waterproof the concrete or use something other than paintable latex caulk?
@MC FIX IT
I changed those out later the next year. I didn’t have an opportunity to record it. At the time, I could replace it but it’s done now and looks great! All of it is still in good working order!!!
I wonder if you can leave one side higher than another to be able to close an angled gap
You could to this. One question I have is what is causing the gap? Uneven floor? Door? If you can answer and possibly fix this, then there would not need to be an angle at the threshold. BUT yes, you can have each screw at differing heights.
@@MCFIXIT thanks alot for the reply! I'm helping a neighbor of mine fix her house which had a really bad foundation problem that unfortunately caused the door frames to be off square and so the gap underneath the front door has 1 3/8" on one side and 1 3/16" on the other side and I was trying to fix the gap so water stops coming into the house without having to rip into the door frame to try and straighten it.. I'm not making any money on this job nor does the homeowner have any money to pay for it so I'm trying to do the best I can without spending a ton of money.. again thanks for the help I look forward to more of your videos!
@@NsyShwl You would shim the new sill bringing it up to level with ice and water shield in layers then caulk the front edge.
Thank you for the video. It is very helpful.
Thanks so much. Best of luck on your project!
@@MCFIXIT Hi, one more question, I did not see the link for the all the tools needed. I very savy with UA-cam.
It’s in the video description…
The Tools: 00:26
*Adjustable Door Threshold - amzn.to/3o1WxkY
*Rigid Multitool - amzn.to/3f3caVh
*Rigid Sawsall - amzn.to/32JIp6q
*Rigid Hammer drill - amzn.to/3uCYU0s
*Concrete Anchors & Screws - amzn.to/3obVPC9
* Gloves - amzn.to/3bbfEnu
* Safety Glasses - amzn.to/3ux25GO
* Shop Towels - amzn.to/2SC8D93
* Tape Measurer - amzn.to/3bg83nI
* Painter’s Tape 1in - amzn.to/3uyt4BU
* Sharpie - amzn.to/3o3CZwW
* Magnetic Metal Tray - amzn.to/3hdUiJZ
* Acrylic Latex Caulk (Paintable) - amzn.to/2Q5JJ0G
* Caulk gun - amzn.to/3evIUHN
* Large Putty Knife - amzn.to/3f2CFKx
this is good work thanks..this might come in hand one day
Thanks! I hope it’s helpful.
What are those plastic pieces that helped attached in beginning?
I think I know what you are referring to… was it when I was pulling off the old one? It was some sort of base that the original one had. It was most likely a different brand/design than what I could find since my house is about 20 years old now.
Can you just glue (if u don’t have hammer drill)?
I would suggest getting in screwed into the ground to ensure it’s properly secured. Glue doesn’t always hold up to weather and since this is partially outside. I’d find a neighbor or someone to borrow a drill and if they have a hammer drill it will go much faster.
Just wondered if the water coming underneath the threshold was stopped. I have to do this to a basement door with a rotted threshold and would have used a lot more caulk underneath it. Looks doable.
No leaking issues and it’s been over two years with many rainstorms. You can definitely use more caulk if you’d like to do so.
AWESOME! JSUT AWESOME! Very well explained!!!! Thank you I have to do this for my back door to my house. I am on a slab so I will have to drill into the concrete like you explained. Thank you so much!
RENMAN
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting!
You know to really professionally install that treshold it's a rubber seal that also goes to the bottom of the door itself" it extra seals from water or lil insects ! Also that hole plug & screws was cool but u can also just use tapcons or whatever works...you did a great job showing & teaching
Thanks! Yes, you can get a rubber seal. I didn't have any tapcon screws with me on this job but that's definitely a good solution as well. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Yeah, my basement exterior door is in a situation that I think could use both a threshold and rubber seal. My door is located at the bottom of a stairwell, which has a drain only about a half foot in diameter. When it rains very hard for more than an hour, there's a chance the drain will get clogged from runoff debris and cause water to back up into the stairwell. My door already has a seal attached on the bottom interior side of it, but it's not quite enough. (The basement will get large puddles inside near the door once every few years on average, so it's serious, but not extremely so.) I'm hoping that installing a threshold in front of the door will block even more water from having access to under the door. I hope it can further help, even if not perfectly.
On a side note, I just replaced that door's frame mostly with PVC trim boards, because most of the wooden fame within a couple feet of the ground was rotting from the prolonged moisture and water at the bottom of stairwell. (Even some parts toward the top of the frame were beginning to rot as well.) I'm hoping the PVC will hold up better against the humidity and water.
I’d def go with a good seal for your application! Also that PVC board is good around wet areas. I helped install some of that on my grandmas garage door frame bc it was a low spot on her driveway (very bad design), and it would rot about every 5 or so years. That PVC stuff has lasted over 8 years and has no signs of water damage. I wish you luck on your project!
@@MCFIXIT Thanks for the reply. If you don't mind, I have a couple follow-up questions for my situation. I'll do my best to sum it up to make this simple enough to try answering.
As mentioned: we took complete care of the perimeter around the door. (That's encouraging to learn that your PVC has lasted 8+ years with zero damage.) The door already has an attachment on the bottom interior side of it. And now we're considering some kind of threshold on the exterior side of the door to keep as much water out as possible.
Additional info: The bottom of my door (not accounting for the attached seal on the bottom) is about 1/2 inch above the ground. The ground is flat and made of concrete both inside and outside the door.
My questions: You suggest "a good seal" for my door. Do you think attaching a rubber seal to the ground just outside the door would beat a threshold? If a threshold is a decent option, can I get away with using a threshold without wood parts? (I'm concerned wood parts would rot quickly on the exterior side of the door, where water is common and helped rot my previous wood door frame.)
Thank you either way, and I do understand any advice you generously offer is free from liability.
You can get scraper blades for the multi-tool that make removing that adhesive easier.
Awesome. Thanks so much. I’m sure this will
Be helpful to others watching this video.
@@MCFIXIT (Super cheap on AMZN btw). Great vid, Thanks.
Helpful video! The adjustment screw on one end is just spinning freely (not adjusting height). Does that mean the threaded insert is spinning freely as well and if so, is there some way to pull them both out? I've tried a small pry bar, but it's just wrecking the wood strip that I was planning to repair.
Do you happen to have plastic trim tools like for removing plastic components on a vehicles dash. That would help you not mar the wood
Are the washers supposed to be tight with the screws? Mine are loose enough that nothing happens when I back out the adjustment screw. I have 3/8 inch space that I can’t adjust to?
Yeah, it should be tight. Does the hardware look the same as in my video?
@@MCFIXIT yes. Same basic hardware. The washers fall right off of the screws
Thank you for the video! Getting ready to replace ours! Great demonstration and explanation.👍🇺🇲
You're welcome!
exllent video! what is that piece called 17:47? some kind trim? thanks!
It would be the threshold of the door sill. I've heard it called a sill cap too. It is the part that helps waterproof the sill and makes contact with the bottom of the door to give you a proper seal from the outside element. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Most Excellent Video!!! Thanks. I felt much more confident after watching. Keep up the good work.
Thanks so much!
Why did you use interior painters caulk outdoors????
I can do this but the problem is that the double doors measure 72 inches but the opening measues 73 1/2 inches wide and the left side of the entrance is more than an inch lower than the right side, in addition to having some sort of hardware on the floor, center, for the rod which closes the left door. The doors were installed without threshold many decades ago and the floor is cement. Any advice is appreciated.
You will need to level the floor first off. I’m a little confused about difference of the size on the double door, can you rephrase it?
Thanks mine is installed now
Awesome. Hope the video helped. Thanks for watching and commenting!
This is hands down the best video that I have found for replacing these thresholds! Well done sir
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Would screwing it on or glueing it on benefit it more?
Both! Screwing it with anchors will give you a stronger hold but glue will help seal it and make it strong too.
Tapcons work great
Great tip!
Very thorough!! Thank you!!
You are welcome! Thanks so much for watching and commenting!
you cut the door, four inches off. could you have use that extra screw to raise the threshold?
Yes, that’s definitely an option!
Appreciate the vid. Great explanation
You are welcome! Have a great day! Good luck on your project!
Great repair video!
Thanks so much!
Thanks!
Okay good...i have the exact same cap so starting off good lol. Need help
How'd the project go!
@@MCFIXIT it went okay. Still gotta replace door sweep...havent had time to upload anything
Glad you got it done! Thanks for commenting and watching. It means a lot!
COVID Safe licking your finger. RIDICULOUS.Total over reaction. Turn of the news and enjoy life. Thanks for the video. I bought the same brand and this video helped.
Lol. Im trying my best to enjoy every moment of life :) Thanks for commenting and watching the video!
My threshold is way to high and the door barely closes when I adjust the screws the center will loosen and float but the edges will not go down. Any ideas, it's very frustrating. Please help
The first thing I'd check would be the washer under the wood and make sure they are allowing you to screw them down properly.
This was fantastic! Thank you for making such an excellent video!!
You are welcome. Glad it was helpful!
Nice video. I have a 5 foot French door that seems to be bowing (rising in the center). Do you have a good remedy for that? It seems like replacing the entire unit would be opening up a can of worms.
No, sorry. I haven't had the opportunity to do something like that. I'd check to see if others have done this one UA-cam or hire a professional. Typically you can see if it's a doable project or not by watching others do it.
Thank you...good job.
Thanks! Best of luck on your project!
Do you have to cut it in half? Can you just use a crow bar and pry it up? I'm afraid of ruining the door frame if I do it that way, but I don't have a multitool or sawsall.
I would recommend doing it this way. Often they place a lot of chalk or liquid nails under it. This will enable you to save as much of the door jamb as possible. Often the sill is attached to the jamb on both sides with nails.
They make a scraper attachment for the multi-tool. Works way faster than scrapping by hand.
I’ll have to look into that attachment. I knew they made a bunch of attachments but not one like that!
@@MCFIXIT I recently used it to remove some kind of sealant from a concrete foundation crack that was leaking. I was thinking grinder at first. But, the scraper removed it in larger pieces with less dust. I still followed up with a grinder at the end to really get back to concrete. But, I was glad I used the scraper first because the grinder was so dusty and stunk. No leaks since I injected the crack and it made me a believer in the multi-tool scraper.
Thanks again! I’ll have to look into that!
Not bad. I was a little fuzzy on the washer system for adjusting but I'm sure I'll get through it. Your storage shed will be nice and toasty now.
Thanks so much! Hope you have success on your project!
We appreciate your effort in making this video. That said, we NEVER cut off one of the adjustment screw holes … period. You should’ve made your side to side measurement …subtract that from 36 inches … and then take half of that measurement from the left end and half from the right end.
Your method decreased your ability to adjust to the threshold by 25% while simultaneously making those adjustments be well off center. Short of re-shooting the video… You should add a disclaimer to the front saying “sometimes you learn on the job” and that when I get to the point of cutting the oversize threshold… Cut off half the excess material from the left hand and half from the right so that you maintain all your adjustment screws and they will be centered properly.
Thanks again for the effort!
Thanks for the tips. I'm certain this will help others out!
How do you treat the wood to keep it from decaying?
You can add a layer of poly on it if you’d like. This will help out a bit. But overtime they do rot especially if wet. You might be better off with a manufactured plastic type if you can find it. They make some close wood colors today. Good luck on your project!
Thanks very helpful
You are welcome. Best of luck on your project!
The washers need to be driven onto the bolt so that they are secured to the adjustment board. Flat side of washer against the wood. I used a longer 8mm socket and tamped the washer down over the bolt. This will snug the bolt to the wood and the adjustments will work correctly.
Great tip! Thank you for adding this
And for the next video you can show how to replace damaged door frames
Yeah. I need to do that to this door frame. It’s got a bit of wood rot from the old leaky sill.
Subscribed, liked, and commented obviously 😂✌️
Thanks so much!
Very helpful 💯💯💯
Awesome! Congratulations. Thanks for writing a comment and watching my video
Thanks man great job
Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for your help!
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting!
The washer they give to raise and lower the threshold does not work. it just falls off the adjusting screw. i used Jb Weld to keep the washer in place it worked well..
Oh that’s stinks. I wonder if they were defective. I’m glad you found a fix around it! Gota love some JB Weld!
Why doesn’t he mention the washer that allows the threshold to be adjusted does not work
Not sure the JB weld will keep the washer in place with heavy traffic.
How well does the adjustable piece hold up to traffic? It looks like all that is keeping it up are some washers, and a big guy like me stepping on it would just push it down. If that does happen what’d be the fix, shims?
That’s what the original had and lasted 17 years. I’m a pretty big guy too. But yes, I’d say shims could be a replacement. I’d figure out the exact height and length and cut your shims downs. I’d also drill out holes and allow the hardware to be used properly. It might take a couple of tries to get the shims to the correct height and size. I think that’s why the system they use is designed like that bc it makes it quite easy to raise and lower the adjustment by simple Philips screws.
I had just that issue. I used JB weld to fix the washer in place. It’s holding good so far.
JB WELD the washer in place.
Thanks @Kenneth Taylor!
Thank you for the video. I'm going to use flexseal instead? It rains a lot here and I don't have gutters...yet (Future diy) First time trying this...Here we go.
Best of luck! Have you completed it?
@@MCFIXIT Ummm, LoL. Turned out to be a huge problem. As I took off the old threshold, the worse you think could happen...happened. everything under the threshold was rot. The wood was soaked. omg remember i have never done this before. It was a nightmare for me. but, I finally got it done. Now tomorrow I will put the final piece on...the new threshold.
Awesome! I'm glad you could preserver through the issues and are able to finish the project! Wood-rot is a serious issue and can lead to lots of leaks and even mold in houses. Glad you were able to fix it!
Why wouldn’t you cut an equal amount from each side?
That’s definitely an option! Thanks for adding this to the conversation!
Great Video! I bought a 7 year old house in 2019. Exterior door from garage to backyard swings out. When it rains alot, or with wind blowing towards the door, water creeps into the garage. The concrete on the outside of the door under the threshold looks chipped as if someone took a chisel or power tool and tried to knock it down - like maybe reducing the overall height at the time the original foundation was poured and the door was installed. I guess the only way to know the condition of the concrete underneath the threshold is to just dive in and take the old one off? Your video is the best I have seen, and I believe I can do this project. I will probably take my big laptop and keep it nearby so I can have your video up as a guide. If I do get the old threshold off and find that the concrete underneath it looks rough and gouged out, do you have any ideas? Have you ever encountered something like this?
Thanks for watching and commenting! Sounds like a bad previous DIY. How deep is the chipping/knock down that you mention? If it’s very small and still level you might be able to just use chalk or concrete patch. If it’s really rough and broken/brittle or patch it up a bit. You may need to tear that portion and add some new concrete in that section. I know they make a small tub of concrete that you can purchase for patch work and minor repairs. Here’s a link: amzn.to/3h5QZ7c
It's kinda hard to see your situation without being there. Good luck on your project!
Great video great work bro!! 🙏❤️
Thanks! I hope it was helpful. Thanks again foe coming by to watch and comment!
My threshold will not raise up or down. Maybe I just need new washers underneath? The screws go up and down but don't bring the threshold with it.
I’d definitely check out what’s going on by unscrewing it. It should help diagnosis your issue
@@MCFIXIT THANKS!
Question: At 11:54 you drill the holes, then at 16:50 you adjust the plate to the door. Shouldn't you have done that in the reverse order? I'm confused how at 17:18 installing the screws didn't just slightly move the plate back into the positioning of the original "holes drilled" positioning rather than your "adjusted to the door closed" positioning. Thanks so much for this video, now I'm not scared to tackle it myself!!!
Yes, it would go back into the same spot. So no worries. Best of luck on your project!