I did this job last weekend (twice actually, more on that later) and have some input. First thing is I suggest removing the driver's CV axle altogether as opposed to leaving it in the hub as seen in this video. It's just one extra step that will save you hassle like it did for me. You'll need a 30mm 12-point socket ($8 at my local autoparts store). Un-stake the axle nut with a flat head screwdriver and mallet/hammer and break it loose with the 30mm socket and a breaker bar while the tires are still on the ground. The reason being is this driver's CV joint got in my way when removing the transmission and putting it back together. I spent more time maneuvering it around than it would have taken to remove it in the first place. You only need to remove the driver's side, you can leave the passenger's side attached to the hub. Secondly, there's no need to zip-tie the slave cylinder as shown at 5:02. It's a sealed unit, if you remove that rubber boot, the push rod falls out and you'll see the piston that moves back and forth. Nothing can leak from here (if it does leak you need a new slave cylinder anyway). At 6:48, he removes one bolt from the rear transmission bracket. There's actually two more bolts that needs to be removed to get the whole bracket off and it MUST come off. There's one directly above the one shown here that can only be accessed from the top of the engine bay and there's one immediately to the right (when looking down at this bracket from the engine bay, so towards driver's side). If you remove just the one bolt as seen in the video, it literally does nothing. You have to remove this entire bracket because the rear transmission mount is sitting on it in addition to the bolt that goes through this bracket and through the rear mount. But, you can't remove the transmission bracket without removing the rear mount (if you remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the rear mount, you physically cannot pull it up and out because it hits the rear transmission mount). If you look at the Toyota repair manual, it also says you must remove this rear transmission bracket. At 6:57, if you look directly above the passenger side CV joint, you can see a heatshield held on with two 12mm bolts and one 12mm nut. In my case, I HAD to remove it in order to remove the transmission bolt seen at 7:51. It's a bitch to get to because they're positioned at the TOP of the heatshield. You can't get at it from the top because of the exhaust manifold. The 12mm bolt that attaches to the rear transmission mount is easy enough, but the 12mm bolt and nut that attaches it to the engine is the difficult part. The easiest way to do it is to get a 20 inch extension (or stack up every extension you have like I did) and get at it from behind the crossmember. My set up was Ratchet --> Universal Socket --> shitload of extensions --> 12mm socket. These were the things I didn't see in the video and had to figure out when doing the job myself. In my opinion, getting the rear transmission bracket and stupid heatshield above the passenger CV was the trickiest part of this job. Other than this, it's quite as straightforward as seen in the video. Now, when you have everything bolted back up, hopefully everything works. In my case, I was getting the VSC, TRAC OFF lights when in gear with the new clutch components and when I dumped the clutch while in any gear, the car didn't stall. Before troubleshooting anything, my dumbass tore EVERYTHING apart all over again to double-check everything. If this happens to you and you're sure you did everything correctly, BLEED your slave cylinder. The correct way is to remove the rubber boot and push rod, shove a socket that will fit in the piston hole, and use a C-clamp to lock it down to prevent the piston from moving when depressing the clutch pedal. Now you can pump the pedal and use the bleeder valve on the slave cylnder. Also make sure to back off the 14mm adjustment screw on the clutch pedal all the way. A faulty slave cylinder and clutch pedal adjusted too far wasn't fully disengaging my clutch. This job might seem daunting to some, but if you're comfortable working on cars, this is a really straightforward job, just take things one at a time. Some tips: Stick a 19mm wrench in the crankshaft pulley. When you loosen/tighten the pressure plate/flywheel bolts, the wrench will get caught between the pulley and the frame of the vehicle. No need for any special flywheel holder tools! I put my tire with a $4 moving blanket underneath the transmission when removing it, it was a huge help. I bought a low-profile transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $80-something after 20% coupon, this was really helpful when getting the transmission mounted back on. I used a deep 15mm socket with barely any electrical tape wrapped around (not even 1 full wrap) attached to my longest extension to align the clutch disc to the flywheel, no need for any special alignment tools. Make sure the thicker side of the clutch disk faces towards the pressure/plate transmission. The flatter side of the clutch disc mates with the flywheel, don't get it backwards! Hope this helps! Good Luck!
@@moha6749 Yes, I should have bled the slave cylinder and adjusted the clutch pedal after I finished the job. I was tired and couldn't remember which orientation I installed the clutch disc, so I jumped to the conclusion that I installed it backwards, hence tearing apart everything.
Fantastic tips thank you. I’m looking at doing this job for my brother (in another state) and trying to get an idea of what tools to bring. Question: Near the beginning of the video at 1:40, I see what looks like the AC condenser coil being removed. I know there’s a 99% chance I’m right but a tiny part of me hopes it’s some weird standard transmission cooler or something else. Do I really need to bring my recovery, vacuum, and charging tools?
Thank you very much for the video kind sir. I started in on it yesterday evening, because of taking many breaks to re-watch your video so to not screw it up plus mental breaks lol. First time ever swapping out a clutch, I'm pretty capable as far as working my way around a vehicle but once I got down to the transmission started wondering if I'm in over my head lol. Nah, thanks to you I can say I'll be putting it all back together here shortly.
Just got doing this job on mine and your video helped tremendously 👍🏻 I did mine without taking the nose and radiator off, but also had a lift to make it easier.
@@CosmoTigato I would love to see removal of the head on this car. I've been driving mine since 2012 with 275k on the clock, all work done on my own. I suspect I have rod knock and am considering replacing the bearings on my own vs buying a new engine. Would greatly appreciate a vid on how to tear down the venerable 1NZFE!
hahaha me too. My son is a mechanic so he is going to do it. We have done most of the work on the Scion. So easy to repair. Well except the rear brakes! lol
Great video. I might be doing this job soon on a customer vehicle. I really wasn't sure if I wanted to take on this job but after watching your video, I'll give him an estimate. Thanks for posting. Also, it's very refreshing to see a poster answering questions.
did you only undo one bolt between the Subframe and trans/motor mount? (6:52) do you think it can be done taking the radiator fan out but not the radiator? i appreciate your video, i am at the point of sliding transmission out, but it doesn't have clearance with the driver side frame, the transmission isn't low enough and is still hooked up to sub frame
About to do this in a 2008 Xd. There is little to no public info about that one in particular. The manual has engine removal as step 1. Can you say whether or not that was supposed to be necessary with this model as well?
GREAT VIDEO, I have a 06 Scion XB with a blown head gasket, I also have a chance to buy a wrecked XB with only 36,000 miles on it my question is what would be easier/faster swap the "motor & trans all in one shot" or just change the head gasket?
How many miles are on the one with the blown head gasket? I would personally do the head gasket job. Super easy on a 4 cyl Scion. But, WOW! If you can get the wreck for cheep, I would pick that one up just to have spare parts in my shed.
Thank you, I don't remember it having a pilot bearing toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkqPrBRA3EiwAKdtwk92-nWagkHRUn3JstfqHerLwIs1SHO1BYMJljfCDG2Z8Wv7WYg73GBoCAggQAvD_BwE
I only sanded it with 1500 grit then used brake clean and a rag. LOL Still running strong. I love the xB, so much fun to drive and haul stuff around in.
Having trouble finding the answer online.. would this be the same process in a 2010 xB? My friend needs her clutch changed but I can’t find any info for doing it on a 2010. Wanted to make sure it’s something I can handle before I say yes
@@CosmoTigato it ended up being pretty different actually. It was tedious and time consuming but not horrible, I did it in 2 days, about 10 total hours. Talk about a bad clutch, there was no fiber left, just bare metal fins
Ha! Funny thing is that xB had been crashed by the previous owner, So I replaced the radiator. I have yet to replace the condenser. So to answer your question, there was no refrigerant in the system. And thank you for your comment, I appreciate it.
@@CosmoTigato Thank you! I was too chicken to pry hard. I got it out of there. Heads up to anyone else: If you replace your flywheel get new bolts and PINs/Dowels for it. They are pretty cheap from the dealer.
According to other comments you don’t have to remove the AC condenser or radiator - just makes it easier. I haven’t done the job yet but probably wise to remove the fan at least. and position a piece of wood or thick cardboard to protect the radiator. EDIT: Update - I completed this job and I did NOT have to remove the condenser. However I did remove the radiator and fan. It seems everyone’s experience is different but clearing the transmission past the subframe in my case could only be done by lifting on the exhaust manifold with a chain to rotate the engine up and forward until the exhaust hit the body. If I didn’t have to do that I wouldn’t have had to remove the radiator. Your mileage may vary!
So I just replaced my engine and it turns over no problem there but now my transmission is slipping. It was fine before the motor blew. Is there something I did wrong?. Great video by the way👍
I did this job last weekend (twice actually, more on that later) and have some input.
First thing is I suggest removing the driver's CV axle altogether as opposed to leaving it in the hub as seen in this video. It's just one extra step that will save you hassle like it did for me. You'll need a 30mm 12-point socket ($8 at my local autoparts store). Un-stake the axle nut with a flat head screwdriver and mallet/hammer and break it loose with the 30mm socket and a breaker bar while the tires are still on the ground. The reason being is this driver's CV joint got in my way when removing the transmission and putting it back together. I spent more time maneuvering it around than it would have taken to remove it in the first place. You only need to remove the driver's side, you can leave the passenger's side attached to the hub.
Secondly, there's no need to zip-tie the slave cylinder as shown at 5:02. It's a sealed unit, if you remove that rubber boot, the push rod falls out and you'll see the piston that moves back and forth. Nothing can leak from here (if it does leak you need a new slave cylinder anyway).
At 6:48, he removes one bolt from the rear transmission bracket. There's actually two more bolts that needs to be removed to get the whole bracket off and it MUST come off. There's one directly above the one shown here that can only be accessed from the top of the engine bay and there's one immediately to the right (when looking down at this bracket from the engine bay, so towards driver's side). If you remove just the one bolt as seen in the video, it literally does nothing. You have to remove this entire bracket because the rear transmission mount is sitting on it in addition to the bolt that goes through this bracket and through the rear mount. But, you can't remove the transmission bracket without removing the rear mount (if you remove the 2 nuts and 2 bolts on the rear mount, you physically cannot pull it up and out because it hits the rear transmission mount). If you look at the Toyota repair manual, it also says you must remove this rear transmission bracket.
At 6:57, if you look directly above the passenger side CV joint, you can see a heatshield held on with two 12mm bolts and one 12mm nut. In my case, I HAD to remove it in order to remove the transmission bolt seen at 7:51. It's a bitch to get to because they're positioned at the TOP of the heatshield. You can't get at it from the top because of the exhaust manifold. The 12mm bolt that attaches to the rear transmission mount is easy enough, but the 12mm bolt and nut that attaches it to the engine is the difficult part. The easiest way to do it is to get a 20 inch extension (or stack up every extension you have like I did) and get at it from behind the crossmember. My set up was Ratchet --> Universal Socket --> shitload of extensions --> 12mm socket.
These were the things I didn't see in the video and had to figure out when doing the job myself. In my opinion, getting the rear transmission bracket and stupid heatshield above the passenger CV was the trickiest part of this job. Other than this, it's quite as straightforward as seen in the video.
Now, when you have everything bolted back up, hopefully everything works. In my case, I was getting the VSC, TRAC OFF lights when in gear with the new clutch components and when I dumped the clutch while in any gear, the car didn't stall. Before troubleshooting anything, my dumbass tore EVERYTHING apart all over again to double-check everything. If this happens to you and you're sure you did everything correctly, BLEED your slave cylinder. The correct way is to remove the rubber boot and push rod, shove a socket that will fit in the piston hole, and use a C-clamp to lock it down to prevent the piston from moving when depressing the clutch pedal. Now you can pump the pedal and use the bleeder valve on the slave cylnder. Also make sure to back off the 14mm adjustment screw on the clutch pedal all the way. A faulty slave cylinder and clutch pedal adjusted too far wasn't fully disengaging my clutch.
This job might seem daunting to some, but if you're comfortable working on cars, this is a really straightforward job, just take things one at a time.
Some tips:
Stick a 19mm wrench in the crankshaft pulley. When you loosen/tighten the pressure plate/flywheel bolts, the wrench will get caught between the pulley and the frame of the vehicle. No need for any special flywheel holder tools!
I put my tire with a $4 moving blanket underneath the transmission when removing it, it was a huge help.
I bought a low-profile transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $80-something after 20% coupon, this was really helpful when getting the transmission mounted back on.
I used a deep 15mm socket with barely any electrical tape wrapped around (not even 1 full wrap) attached to my longest extension to align the clutch disc to the flywheel, no need for any special alignment tools.
Make sure the thicker side of the clutch disk faces towards the pressure/plate transmission. The flatter side of the clutch disc mates with the flywheel, don't get it backwards!
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
@@moha6749 Yes, I should have bled the slave cylinder and adjusted the clutch pedal after I finished the job. I was tired and couldn't remember which orientation I installed the clutch disc, so I jumped to the conclusion that I installed it backwards, hence tearing apart everything.
Thank you all yours tips help me to much
Fantastic tips thank you. I’m looking at doing this job for my brother (in another state) and trying to get an idea of what tools to bring.
Question: Near the beginning of the video at 1:40, I see what looks like the AC condenser coil being removed. I know there’s a 99% chance I’m right but a tiny part of me hopes it’s some weird standard transmission cooler or something else. Do I really need to bring my recovery, vacuum, and charging tools?
You don't have to take off the A/C condenser. Mine was damaged so I removed it for better camera angels.
@@CosmoTigato Oh that’s great news, thank you! Does that mean the radiator can stay on too?
Thank you very much for the video kind sir. I started in on it yesterday evening, because of taking many breaks to re-watch your video so to not screw it up plus mental breaks lol.
First time ever swapping out a clutch, I'm pretty capable as far as working my way around a vehicle but once I got down to the transmission started wondering if I'm in over my head lol. Nah, thanks to you I can say I'll be putting it all back together here shortly.
Just got doing this job on mine and your video helped tremendously 👍🏻 I did mine without taking the nose and radiator off, but also had a lift to make it easier.
Great to hear!
Thank you for uploading. There's not enough out there on these cars.
Thank you, If you have any suggestions I can make a video of it on this car.
@@CosmoTigato I would love to see removal of the head on this car. I've been driving mine since 2012 with 275k on the clock, all work done on my own. I suspect I have rod knock and am considering replacing the bearings on my own vs buying a new engine. Would greatly appreciate a vid on how to tear down the venerable 1NZFE!
Great video thanks for taking the time to make this, I did my alternator last week, possibly clutch this weekend!
Glad it helped
Got the clutch done!
Cosmo I’m actually getting my clutch replace. I didn’t know how much work that is. Hands down bro. You know your craft
hahaha me too. My son is a mechanic so he is going to do it. We have done most of the work on the Scion. So easy to repair. Well except the rear brakes! lol
Would you like me to make a video for replacing the Rear Brake Shoes?
@@CosmoTigato if you like it is just more tedious than the front 😉
two many nice 👍🏼 👍🏼, thanks for this video. I have to replace the clutch in my 06 xB soon 😎
Great video. I might be doing this job soon on a customer vehicle. I really wasn't sure if I wanted to take on this job but after watching your video, I'll give him an estimate. Thanks for posting. Also, it's very refreshing to see a poster answering questions.
It's a fun little car to drive, it's actually Bigger on the inside.
is it ok not to remove the ac condenser? I will just remove the radiator?
did you only undo one bolt between the Subframe and trans/motor mount? (6:52)
do you think it can be done taking the radiator fan out but not the radiator?
i appreciate your video, i am at the point of sliding transmission out, but it doesn't have clearance with the driver side frame, the transmission isn't low enough and is still hooked up to sub frame
I would pull the rad out, don't want to put a hole in it.
i see, I just dented it with my thumb, didn't realize it was that soft
Time wise, how much did it take overall?
My clutch is going on my 2005 xB, think i can do this on my gravel driveway.
Absolutely, Just take your time, take pictures and think of it as fun!
Should take 4 to 5 hrs for a first timer.
Great video! I was wondering about that bolt at 6:52 for the rear engine mount. Is it just one bolt? Is there more to that ?0
Thank you and yes just one bolt for the mount. :)
About to do this in a 2008 Xd. There is little to no public info about that one in particular. The manual has engine removal as step 1. Can you say whether or not that was supposed to be necessary with this model as well?
Have you checked-
www.scionlife.com/
@Cosmo Tigato where did you purchase your parts from?
AutoZone
GREAT VIDEO, I have a 06 Scion XB with a blown head gasket, I also have a chance to buy a wrecked XB with only 36,000 miles on it my question is what would be easier/faster swap the "motor & trans all in one shot" or just change the head gasket?
How many miles are on the one with the blown head gasket?
I would personally do the head gasket job. Super easy on a 4 cyl Scion.
But, WOW! If you can get the wreck for cheep, I would pick that one up just to have
spare parts in my shed.
@@CosmoTigato 175.000
@@CosmoTigato Seemed like from watching your video looked like the engine would just pop right out of there is why I asked
@@divasmom65 - I think if you were to take the engine and trans out as one unit, it would have to come out from the under side.
Does this apply to a 2011 as well
Great vid. Does anyone know the Toyota part number for the pilot bearing for this car. ???? Thanks
Thank you,
I don't remember it having a pilot bearing
toyotaparts.lagrangetoyota.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwkqPrBRA3EiwAKdtwk92-nWagkHRUn3JstfqHerLwIs1SHO1BYMJljfCDG2Z8Wv7WYg73GBoCAggQAvD_BwE
Hello I noticed it looks like you only removed axle on the drivers side, do you not have to remove the passenger on?
I just popped it off the trans and let it hang.
recommended tools for this job? I am planning to replace my clutch on my 2006 scion xB
10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm
Did you replace the flywheel or get it resurfaced? I'm planning to do this job next weekend.
I only sanded it with 1500 grit then used brake clean and a rag. LOL
Still running strong. I love the xB, so much fun to drive and haul stuff around in.
Doing a rebuilt on mine pretty confident only thing I'm worried about is the wiring but screw it gotta try to be able to learn
It's actually really easy and fun to work on xB's
Thank you for this.
Having trouble finding the answer online.. would this be the same process in a 2010 xB? My friend needs her clutch changed but I can’t find any info for doing it on a 2010. Wanted to make sure it’s something I can handle before I say yes
I'm sure it is very similar.
@@CosmoTigato it ended up being pretty different actually. It was tedious and time consuming but not horrible, I did it in 2 days, about 10 total hours. Talk about a bad clutch, there was no fiber left, just bare metal fins
Good job. Did you have to drain the a/c refrigerant?
Ha! Funny thing is that xB had been crashed by the previous owner, So I replaced the radiator. I have yet to replace the condenser. So to answer your question, there was no refrigerant in the system. And thank you for your comment, I appreciate it.
If the Video moves to fast for you... Click on the Video Settings and SLOW it down.
How did you get the drive shaft/axel out? Is it a special tool?
Pry bar
@@CosmoTigato Thank you! I was too chicken to pry hard. I got it out of there. Heads up to anyone else: If you replace your flywheel get new bolts and PINs/Dowels for it. They are pretty cheap from the dealer.
And also ( Great video )👍👍
Thank you
From what u been told having a battery placed on the floor results in damaging the battery..?
thats a myth not a fact
lol
Back in the 1920s when batteries were made out of wood.
is this the same process just to replace the clutch only?
Yes, same process.
That is what I was doing when I slapped this video together
YOU ARE VERY GOOD. YOU DID IT WITH OUT POWER TOOLS.
Nah, All the batteries were on the charger. LOL
Thanks for the video. Frustrating they make u disconnect the a/c condenser =/ then must be recharged. But video was very helpful. Thanks bro
According to other comments you don’t have to remove the AC condenser or radiator - just makes it easier. I haven’t done the job yet but probably wise to remove the fan at least. and position a piece of wood or thick cardboard to protect the radiator.
EDIT: Update - I completed this job and I did NOT have to remove the condenser. However I did remove the radiator and fan. It seems everyone’s experience is different but clearing the transmission past the subframe in my case could only be done by lifting on the exhaust manifold with a chain to rotate the engine up and forward until the exhaust hit the body. If I didn’t have to do that I wouldn’t have had to remove the radiator. Your mileage may vary!
My Condenser was broken so I took it out. lol
How many hours did it take you to tear down and reassemble?
About 6 hrs total
Beast!
LOL!!! :)
is this the same prosedure for an xa toyota scion???
ua-cam.com/video/QHA5YpNiFf4/v-deo.html
any chance you can list tools/socket sizes for this job?
most of your asian imports like hondas 10,12,14,17 and 19mm
Metric tool set
@@CosmoTigato long ago answered the question but thank you either way for the helpful response
Is this a hard job and does trans come out wheel well
Not a hard job, just takes a couple hours and It gets lowered on to the floor
Is this the same process for an 08?
Not exactly. If you are car smart, it is similar.
Is that the original transmission for that scion ?
As far as I can tell, yes.
So I just replaced my engine and it turns over no problem there but now my transmission is slipping. It was fine before the motor blew. Is there something I did wrong?. Great video by the way👍
Automatic or Manual Transmission?
If I was rich I’d send you a makida 3/8 12v ratchet;) you da man
LOL... I do have a 1/2" 20v
Thank you
It's the thought, that counts!
pretty damn hard
Just time consuming.
A flash light would of been helpful to see what you were unscrewing good video so far👍
Thanks for the tip
Would it not have been easier just to remove the whole engine?
Nope.
ua-cam.com/video/eHpLtsyHSxc/v-deo.html what is this that you are removing? Does it have to do with the A/C?
That is the A/C Condenser, There was No Freon in the system, due to a crash from the previous owner.
Cosmo Tigato thank you for the reply
why not say it is manual transmission on title?
Because it says the word "Clutch"
This Lego set is way too big lolol
Looks like a rough job.
A fun job. :)
you don't have to take all that stuff off ,it comes out through the bottom.
At 10:50 it looks like it did come out through the bottom
good video, but too fast, not explained,