Troubleshooting a Ford Electronic Automatic Temperature Control Module
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2017
- Not a how-to or "fix it yourself" video (although the beginning might give you some ideas for what to check, why and how). This is also not the o-ring problem!
What are supposedly completely rebuilt EATC head units are available for $100 with a $50 core charge. Getting one of those is probably the most sensible thing to do.
Have I ever mentioned that I dislike automatic climate control in cars? (Ford's manual climate control system in these cars utilizes many of the same parts, so reliability isn't likely to be a whole lot different. I just prefer the fan speed and outlet air temperature to remain constant.)
Since I didn't mention some of them, one of the "great unknowns" is whether the solenoids allow vacuum flow at rest or when powered. Whether powered or not, I could not pull a vacuum on the solenoid assembly. I tried sealing the cracked plastic with glue to no improvement. And yes, "nine watts" isn't a measure of current. Oops.
I wonder how much detail Ford's factory service manual goes into with regard to the climate control system.
Ford EATC Self-Diagnostic: www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/eatcswap...
Good show !! I learned a lot of information about the Ford Crown Victoria EATC. Probably won't buy a rebuilt unit from EBAY. Easier to junk my car and buy a newer used car because I have so many other problems that need fuxing. Just too expensive. Thanks for your video !!
I remember when the temp control arm was tied to a wire cable and a lever on the dash. They outlasted the car.
Holy cow man!! Great vid!!! The first part was super helpful. Once you opened up the module I was totally out of my league, but I appreciate that I could at least understand what you were saying, if not exactly why those components would be identifiable on sight. I’m certainly no electrical engineer.
The way the vacuum solenoids function is the black plastic manifold supplies engine vacuum to all the solenoids at the same time and when the solenoids are not activated, the plunger with the large rubber pad is pushed by the spring against the opening in the manifold cutting off vacuum to that specific solenoid. When the solenoid is activated the coil pulls the plunger back against the spring allowing vacuum to pass around the plunger and into the opening of the sleeve with the "o" ring and passing back through the manifold to the corresponding nipple at the rear of the assembly where the vacuum hose harness plugs in.
If your's was the only Ford Panther available, I'd be more interested in a complete diagnosis and fix from scratch. However, given the fact that numerous fords of a certain era (Panthers, 2000 Expedition...) use this control, I'd already have gotten 3 or 4 from the junkyard and determined which one works or only needs the o-rings that you have. If you or I were to remain curious, another 1 or 2 of the junkyard pieces probably work or are easy to fix. I would then proceed to do destructive testing on it. That's much easier and finds those answers quickly.
Thank you for posting, and caring about others. I need this info . my car shop estimate was $1300.00 to change the blend door actuator.
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I'd say the vacuum manifold tree sub-assembly has lost its integrity due to some type of mechanical or temperature related stress and possibly a combination of both. The failure may be unavoidable due to the designed operation of the solenoids, in my experience, most solenoids with a spring are naturally in an "off", "closed", or "neutral" position and when energized change state and perform a task like opening a gas door or a vacuum circuit in this case. For instance if a solenoid was energized for a 30 minute drive I'd assume that it would generate considerable heat and eventually crack or warp the sub-assembly. But I am also unfarmiliar with the exact operation of the EATC, in one of my automobiles a 1991 Lincoln I have the earlier ATC system which is a microprocessor based automatic control HVAC system without a digital display which has not given me any problems so far. If you are going to take the junkyard route I would look for a metal solenoid assembly (not sure if one even exists) or the assembly out of an older model which might be of a better design or of a higher quality composition I think EATC started in 1994 or 1996 but I'm not sure. Regardless, just purchasing a functional sub-assembly out of a junk yard will probably be the most cost effective solution if that indeed is the problem. If any additional information or a solution is found an update even if it is just added in the description would be appreciated. I am not a fan of an "automatic" system in a car either and on a completely unrelated side note my favorite automotive climate control system was in a 1994 Camry that I use to have in which the indoor/outdoor air flap was manually controlled you could select any percentage of either, the hot/cold air control was a cable operated coolant flow valve, it had a seperate switch for A/C compressor control, and finally a dc motor controlled airflow position selector with more selections than I have ever had in a GM, Chrysler, or Ford product.
To a commenter at wide open throttle the ac shuts off, and the engine has little or no vacume, also the fan does change speeds by it self, sun load sensor on top of dash and a temp sensor under the panel you remove to get to heater control. Clean them
Bill, I was going to say, just JB Weld it or use epoxy, but realized getting an air tight seal may be easier said than done and that your only other option is perhaps a new part and just hope it doesn't cost you an arm and a leg and whatever else in the process.
Considering they used a solenoid for each vacuum connection, the solenoids default to the closed position until power is restored. It's typical of most manufactures to do it that way with vacuum operated components and it's kind of a fail safe. For example my dad's Lincoln continental will open it's headlights and cabin vent in the case of a vacuum failure, found that out when we pulled the engine.
Q-Bond might work well (or trash the unit) it's a powder that is activated instantly by a liquid, I've seen it used on plastic vacuum canister boxes with good results.
Vacuum is cut off when each solenoid is NOT activated. These are most likely 12v as the Excursion/Super Duty system works the same, but has a remote mounted solenoid pack. As for the blend door actuator, I believe it is a DC reversing motor with position sensor. Think power window motor plus a throttle position sensor. If you still need a solenoid pack, I have an extra F150/Expedition EATC with a broken case. Works as far as I can tell. Let me know if you're interested
Informative video, to be sure. I'm glad my '98 Vic has manual hvac controls. It does have a couple problems though. First, a burned out blower motor resistor, so it only works on high fan speed. Also, I need a new a/c accumulator due to corrosion causing a noticeably large refrigerant leak.
I'm sorry that I don't have anything of much use to add, but I did find this pretty interesting. My experience with vacuum operated stuff is pretty much nothing and I'm not yet proficient in the management of angry pixies, but it seems like it should be possible to hijack the vacuum system somehow. Not sure what options exist for that, but if the solenoids are even trying to operate, you've got an electrical reference for each function.
You forgot what I consider the best part of these cars, they're big and comfortable. They have a lot of room inside, and big trunks. Personally I tend to prefer trucks and SUVs, but I definitely would drive a big full sized sedan as well.
I really appreciate the jump in quality found in your recent videos. Both content and mostly video quality.
If those solenoids get as hot as you described, plus the heat/cold changes, plus age, the plastic will become brittle and crack. Definitely something I have to check on my beast (97 Crown Victoria) as it has the same issue, air doesn't redirect when buttons are pushed. Either mine is cracked as well or the o-rings are shot. One of projects that'll take me the day to work on without interruptions (yeah, right!).
Sir, I have no idea who you are, but you should absolutely be charging people for your ability to do instructional videos! This video was the best instructional video I have ever seen!! You do a great job. I am VERY much into electronic trouble shooting and I think we could have been friends..lol!! And just my two cents worth on the cracked vaccume body....could it be from the massive heat generated from the solenoids that caused the cracking?? Just an idea..... Thanks again for your videos and please keep doing them!!!
You could try to melt the plastic on the cracks to temporally fix it until you can source a good one. I've done that with other plastic parts for a short term quick fix. Used an old ratty soldering iron tip for it. That might seal it up for now.