Replacing the internal fuse with a breaker? Finalising the Seplos-JK BMS-swap!
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2024
- We are doing it my friends! Today, I'm going to finalise the 'easy and quick' BMS swap from the Seplos BMS to the JK BMS. I would have not expected that this upgrade would take that long... But, it is a lot of work, not only re-designing the front panel with some 3D printed frames, holders and mounts but also the cabling takes quite a bit of time. I had to shorten the display cable and also solder the balance cables to the existing JST connectors of the Seplos PCBs.
OK, I must admit, it took a bit longer because I also replaced the internal fuse of the Seplos box with a DC breaker. The fuse is good, the breaker is better as it also serves as a switch.
Eventually, I got it all working and together and it actually does not look too bad... What do you think?
Part I of this build:
Installing the JK-BMS in a Seplos MASON DIY Box? Well, it's not that easy... but here is how!
• Installing the JK-BMS ...
SEPLOS MASON 6.9 Kit. Building a battery was never that easy (and fast).
• SEPLOS MASON 6.9 Kit. ...
How the Seplos BMS handles balancing. (it actually sucks🤦♂️)
• How the Seplos BMS han...
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The istallation of the circuit breaker is just great. I love when someting is installed bombenfest.
Yeah, it really worked out well. The two long screws holding it down works pretty well.
Nice work Andy! 👍 4 🐸 for you! 😉😁
Thank you. 4🐸are almost 5🐸 😊
Nice work Andy!
all that cables.. and it takes a lot time... said the guy that managed to paralel maybe more than 70 kilowatts of storage !
It's a hobby, right, so... (I'm not really complaining😉)
Nice Build Andy, Thanks. One important safety consideration when replacing Fuses with circuit breakers, is that breakers are typically intended as 'overload' protection and fuses as 'Short Circuit' protection. The concern being, that in a short-circuit condition, the breaker has to be capable of interrupting the maximum possible inrush current, and if circuit breaker contacts and interrupting mechanisms are not capable of interrupting short-circuit inrush current (such as in large storage battery systems that could potentially be thousands of amps (think of an arc-welder on steroids), and if the breaker contacts weld closed, and little mouse-trap contraption that opens those contacts is unable to force them apart, or the heating element that heats the the bi-metal spring melts like a fuse with thousands of amps running through the shunt (I've seen that happen), before it transfers enough heat to trip the mouse-trap mechanism, you potentially could encounter a catastrophic thermal situation.
Fuses on the other hand, burn and can interrupt current nearly instantaneously in a short-circuit condition, thus protecting your expensive silicon-based components and preventing a potentially catastrophic fire which circuit breakers might or might not be engineered to interrupt.
I did an in depth search for a short-circuit current interrupting rating for your NanQue DZ47Z-125, and nowhere could I find any of specs or any mention of short-circuit interrupting rating, which I find questionable if not concerning, if say your BMS has a Barrier Diode or SCR fail shorted, or you have an internal cable short and the little NanQue also fails closed, hopefully it might melt after a few seconds or mins and act like a fuse as some Chinese breakers seem to do, but I wouldn't count on it .
120v and up AC/DC breakers are typically required to be LAB tested an approved for a minimum current interrupting rating of at least 10,000 amps. My guess is that your battery pack into a short circuit might be capable of an initial in-rush of a couple of thousand amps, and possibly MUCH more. The rating for the NanQue seems to be unknown.
On industrial electric vehicles we used to design and build, a 48V 1P 100amp hour lead acid pack was calculated to produce 10,000amps or more of initial short-circuit in-rush, and about 1,000 amps for several seconds. That the internal resistance of LFE chemistry is several times lower than Lead-Acid, personally, I'd not trust the China breaker and install that fuse in line with the breaker.
Good point.
The breaker is definitely a requirement for me additional to a Fuse. They have different purposes. I would suggest to add a fuse between cell 8 and 9 in a good fire resistent case or in series between the breaker and the BMS. There is room for that at the left side of the frontpanel.
@@JdZ-2023 Indeed. A mid-pack slow-blow fuse with a higher amp rating than your overload breaker and main fuse could be a good safety precaution in case one cell or half the pack shorts, especially with large, higher voltage packs. And I would say a must with LI-Ion.
Fusing parallel strings or packs could also limit the amount of current delivered to an internally shorted cell.
I've been paralleling 20S X 1P LFP EV packs, each with a BMS and Fuse rather than building a single 20S X 3P or 4P pack and I prefer that for many reasons, one being redundancy and I've had a couple of cells and spot welds fail and that way I only loose 33 or 25% rather than the entire pack and I can add or remove capacity as needed. Having multiple BMSs seems to be a tad more efficient as I'm always below max current of a single BMS.
calculated inrush in a complete short on a 48v LFP pack is about 17000A
@@stevenyau2443 Thanks, is that with something like 100AH to 200AH prismatic cells?
I did just find a current interrupting rating for a Chinese circuit breaker that looks like a re-branded version of the NanQue, and it listed 'Short Circuit' as ''6000' but it did not say if that was amps, watts or what, but a 6,000 amp current interrupting rating could be sketchy for battery bank capable of half that Short circuit current. And as the Chinese ratings are often marketing numbers, not tested UL or ETL ratings, the only way to have an idea would be to test them, and that might make for an informative video "testing Chinese Circuit breakers to destruction"
waited whole week for a content, I miss the days when I have to watch video on every other day basis.
I never had video on a daily base though. This video took 35-40h to film, edit, upload,... no way I can do more...
Andy, thank you very much for your wonderful videos.🎉❤
And thank you for your wonderful feedback and comment!
Great finish!!!
Thanks. I'm pretty happy with this Frankenstein front plate. I had uglier outcomes😁
job well done, nice and correct modification 👍
Thank you. It also works well.
Great work my friend!
Thank you.
Great video
Thankn you.
Andy. Love the breaker solution.
Thank you. I like it too. It acts like a nice switch now and I can physically disconnect the battery.
With a breaking capacity of 10kA, the shunt trip is a much better choice compared to the (too) small fuse.
With small capacities, the Mega or Midi fuses might just be sufficient, but with the 280Ah cells at the latest, the limit is definitely clearly exceeded.
Then it's better to use NH fuses, which can switch off approx. 40kA DC.
I use NOARK MCCBs for my batteries as an external breaker. They are just too large for such a small case.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia 👍👍
Open youtube and this is on top. Ten seconds since posted
Oh, wow. That is great✌
And...🥈
The fuse is there in case of BMS failure. So it should be sized such that it never blows as long as the BMS is operating properly (with regards to when the BMS itself disconnects the battery on over-current or short conditions). That is the only purpose for that fuse.
But can it be replaced with a breaker? It isn't ideal. It should never blow in the first place, but if you don't otherwise have a disconnect on the box a breaker does have value-add. The only problem is that while a breaker will pop instantly on a short, it won't on an over-current. It typically takes 4x the breaker current specification to pop it quickly. Below that and you have to look at the table... but we're talking up to 60 seconds in some cases.
If you do use a breaker, it should probably be a Type B rather than a Type C for this application. Type B has a tighter trip curve.
-Matt
Don't agree, look at the curve of fuses at rated A even a fast one will take arround 90 minutes to blow. I have 135A class T and at 100A they are at 90 celcius, I blow one charging at max for a couple hours, a breaker don't get that hot. Fuses are only better in price, class T not the case the only advantage I see is they wont melt closed.
@@CantFindInUA-cam You seem to be arguing that fuses take as long to blow from over-current as breakers... which would be patently incorrect. Is that what you are really trying to argue?
The thing about fuses is that they don't piddle around like breakers do past around 200% the rated current. A typical fuse will blow in less than a second at a mere 300% its rated current. A Type C breaker typically takes at least 10 seconds.
Something like a Blue Sea Systems ANL fuse will trip at 200% in 5 seconds. A Type B or C breaker typically takes more like 50 seconds.
Until you hit solenoid trip point of a breaker, the actual trip time of a breaker is typically far more varied and significantly longer than a fuse. You can test it if you don't believe me.
And no, we aren't talking slo-blow fuses here. We are talking regular fuses... say, ANL or Monster. The curve for a T-Class fuse will depend heavily on the brand.
In anycase, this is why I suggested a Type B breaker to replace the fuse. A type B's solenoid is programmed to instantly trip at 300%. It is still slower than a fuse below 300%, but its behavior is closer to that of a fuse than a type C breaker would be.
-Matt
@@junkerzn7312 I never wrote that fuses are slower than breakers! Has brand I use Ferraz Shawmut, model FR22UD60V135T and they have a loss of 25W this is why I don't like fuses, but use them.
I do the exact same thing with my vice when crimping ... way easier. Great minds think alike 😂😊😅
It was actually a viewer tip a while back and it works so much better.
Hello to cloudy cold Australia 😊
Hello 😊
I've got a seplos variant box inbound and that's exactly what I had planned to do was install a breaker. It just makes sense to have that physical disconnect as well 👍🏼
I think the orient power box uses a chint 250 amp mccb breaker. They are a bit difficult to source and
more expensive.
The 100Ah Jaki battery uses a Chint CB, the larger 230Ah battery uses a different brand and this is more a MCCB variant. Don't know the specs right now but will have to open the box anyway in the next few weeks so will have a look and show it on the channel.
double ferrules exist, there are some for 2x16mm².
What Andi did here was pure Pfusch! He should really use the twin ferrules.
And thicker cable.
Of course double 16mm ferrules exist but do you have them at home???
Perfectly fine to remove the plastic sleeve and use just the metal ferrules to keep the strands together.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia at the moment the biggest size of ferrules I have at home are actually only 1.5mm².
that might change if I do install a battery storage with solar.
Great! Love it!
Have you done a potential short circuit current calculation for your battery? In a short, you have 10’s of thousands of amps that will be an effective welder in any fuse as it attempt to break the circuit. I wouldn’t be too sure that 10kA is sufficient interrupt capacity (AIC) for the LFP battery but it might be close with 16cells of internal resistance+BMS IR+internal battery wiring resistance. Almost certainly the fuse being used (looks like a MIDI) is insufficient to withstand a short circuit with the DC circuit and could/would weld across the fuse before breaking.
The UL (underwriters laboratory) has class T fuses with sufficient DC AIC and the IEC has DC rated NH style gBAT rated fuses specifically for the safety of, you guessed it, low internal resistance high energy storage battery systems. This newer standard was partially a response to many using AC rated (NH) fuses based on AC AIC and improperly (unsafely) used in high energy storage batteries. The good news is short circuits are rare in fixed installed systems. The bad news for these fuses is that should a short circuit occur…well, the slag inside the fuse will be the witness for the fire’s cause.
With as much moving/changing/re-shuffling of the batteries you use, you might have a higher risk of a short circuit than most installations, other than a vehicle or boat.
You asked…good luck
As I explained in the video, I will have an external breaker which will handle that. This smaller one is more like a disconnect isolator. The NOARK breakers would be too large for this small box
@@OffGridGarageAustralia at about 4 minutes into the video, someone says “…the fuse itself would totally meet the safety requirements of the battery, but…” it sounded like your voice😉
The midi is not even close to meeting the short circuit safety requirements.
I know there were lots of comments and it’s difficult to read/respond to each and a boilerplate reply is easy, but I wasn’t commenting on breakers, just the fuse framed in the video based on your statement 🤷♂️
I prefer a circuit breaker as well as a fuse (schmelzsicherung). But those ANL or Megafuses are not sufficient for batteries because if you short the battery the Mosfets burn thru and can’t disconnect, and because of the high amperage (I=U/R) you get 10kA to 20kA (EVE 280) an arc builds up that continues to deliver current. You need a sand filled fuse like NH-Sicherung or T-class fuses (Aliexpress: RGS4, RGS11, … DC 250 V, 160A) which are able to disconnect up to 20kA. (And are stinking expensive).
In US a house melted down because the 100kWh battery overheated after the solar inverter created a short and BMS and Megafuse were not able to disconnect. And after 20.000 Amps the cella got very hot….
And DC breakers should disconnect positive AND negative…
The breaker also disconnects at quick inrushing current (magnetic disconnect) where melting fuses acummulate high current to burn thru.
Double breaker (positive and negative) because in case of internal problems when a cell gets in contact with the metal case (think of vibrations on marine or RV applications) - you still want to disconnect the half after the contact to the case….
Use the NOARK breakers. They are rated for 25kA breaking capacity. These are the ones I used in the battery shelf.
👍👍👍
Ευχαριστούμε!
Thank you very much for your ongoing support!
V=IR. Voltage drops with resistance if amps stays the same.
Thus yes, balance cable length matters especially if you’re balancing to 0.01V
Correct. This is exactly why JK BMS allows to adjust the resistance of the battery sense wires.
I had the same question when I builded up my batterie: Switch or fuse? I did both for safety reasons. I agree to what you said: A switch is great to turn it off. What I found out was that the 200A fuse becomes very hot when I tested with 180A. Not only the fuse of cause but also the holder and the cabeling. I dicided to use a much bigger fuse cause it should basically protect from shortcut. A 400A fuse does this job as well. The JK-BMS cannot stand a shortcut and should cut at 200A as configured. My DC breaker is a 250A type. So it will break at 250A (after what time??). I think in the unlike case that the BMS does not cut it will die first. So the fuses primarily care for the cells. All in all I was a bit disapointed about fuse/breaker behavior. These devices have current specification but it takes a long time with high current to get activated/cut circuit. Do you have expirience with that issue? Best wishes of a big Andy fan ... 🤗
Thank you, Ralf. The fuse should be sized depending on your cable sizes. And yes, they have a higher resistance and hence, get warm. If you pull 180A from a single battery frequently and over longer period of times, you may want to consider a second battery to share the load.
A 250A breaker will not switch off at 250A unless it heats up enough to trigger the thermal mechanic inside. There are diagrams for breakers which show the trigger current and time.
11:30. I just bought that exact same heatshrink pack
Tra non molto arriverai a 88000 follower 🎉
🥉
Everybody forgeting for install fuses to BMS wires. It is safer cut the wires closer to baterry and install small fuse (value twice balance current) because most baterry fires starts in this not covered point.
I use green fuses for pcb from Aliexpress.
Is the thin cable of the balance cables not the fuse?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia yes because from cells thru this wires going full power of cells and it is very easy cut break or somethink else destroy on this wires or ways. BMS is pontentional risk too.
All battery block what I seen contains fuses or polymer fuses on BMS wires.
When you have fuse on balance wire next to battery is ideal position for prevent any risk short connection from this wire.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia your idea is thin wire work like fuse? Yes but dangerous situation inside box because fuse burns inside and wire burns outsider.
Could you do a movie on selecting fuses for the battery packs?
Which type and size etc?
OK
Like# 346 from Montana!
You have done better...😁
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I’m on vacation! Hahahahahaha, I see you 👀
Mrs Andy must be a saint - you pop in "dinner is served" then your back into your shed
Well... it's not quite like that even it looks like it in the videos😉
According to Ai that’s oberstes Regal👌
Wait a minute Andy.. if you had a 1 foot balance lead vs. A 100m balance lead wire length.. shurley there would be a slight differences in voltage reading due to voltage drop irr of the wire lenght.. but i agree with the cable length they give you it won't matter if you shorten it.. nothing burger... :)
Nope, no difference if there is no current flowing.
Bombenfest 😊how many Kiloampere DC can your Sicherungsautomat Switchen. Ist ja im Moment die große Diskussion ?
I use NOARK breakers which can handle 25kA. Better than class-t fuses. They are just too big for this battery case as explained in the video.
Since many battery banks are being put in parallel, each bank will not have a high amp charge or load. Therefore no need for a 125A breaker, a 30A or 50A will do. Use slow open breakers, takes care of intermittent surges, but lots of protection from high currents. My system has 5 100Ah battery's, use 30A Airpax breakers with curve 52, never have had a breaker open.
You can not expect a battery pack to be paralleled with another pack, the breaker must have the same rating as the pack it is installed in.
@@L_O_M
When you are building your own battery system and knowing the load, breakers only needs to be 1.25 times the load, pack rating is based on what the manufacture rates the battery cells. The user should have breakers based upon their load requirements, good and safe design engineering.
Are you going to make many batteries once you find the one setup that you’re satisfied?
I don't know yet. I will test different things but maybe the next video will hint something...😉
Andy, I can recommend a TS101 as a soldering iron, you can power it from a USB or I use my drill batteries
What's wrong with my 30yrs old soldering station?
I bought 4 Apexium DIY battery kits with the JK Inverter BMS PB2A16S20P. The first one I built had a bad BMS right out of the Box and it looks like Jkung is not going to replace it. 34 days have gone by without a commitment to replace it. This is not good after sales support.
Andy, what on Earth do you do with all of your batteries and BMSs You must have a grave yard full of them and a very understanding Mrs Andy too.
BTW my Jaki 230s are going strong with the 12kW Growatt, just need Qld sunshine down here in Vic 😫
You will see in the next video...😉
Yeah, Mrs Andy is very supportive!
Seplosbox needs standard a jk-inverter setup. But nice work Andy.
Seplosbox will always come with a Seplos BMS. Otherwise, it wouldn't be a Seplosbox anymore😂
@@OffGridGarageAustralia haha…okay…Masonbox 👊🏻 1-1 🤣
Heya, at 22:22 I would put somekind of insulation between the main positive and main negitive, I know it's not high voltische but it's a moveble box with cables close to each uther just to be sore.
What isolation would you use, how to attach?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I was thinking about the pvc that you used for the cover of the LiFiPo4 in the battery shelf make a hook and use the hook to mount it the the frame some were some how or print some kind of "clip" witchs makes sure the + and - can't scrabe and damage the isolation but for the rest it looks very good
Just out of curiosity: are the connectors of the seplos and jk different types? Size is obvious, but wouldn't it be easier to unpin the cables from the seplos connector and pin them into the jk connectors instead of doing all the soldering?
The Seplos has only two large connectors, one for each PCB. The JK has 4 smaller connectors for the balance cables and temp sensors. Very different and not compatible.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia yeah, I saw that, what I meant is if they are the same type of connectors. Like if both are say JST XH, where seplos just uses two with 10pins each and JK uses four with 5pins each. Then the possibly easier, but in any case cleaner, solution would be to remove the crimped pins from the seplos connectors and pushing them into the JK connectors. Hope this is more understandable.
@@KingWarin The connectors are different but the idea is sound with a little modification. Just get the correct size pins and 4 more connectors. Snip the Seplos end off and crimp new pins on, insert and it's ready. Probably a little faster than the solder method then the JK cable could be reused for another project.
Have you ever checked the datasheet of the fuses and circuitbreakers most of those fuses cant no handle the short circuit current of LFP batteries
Yes, checked them. Hence I said there will be a second CB outside of the battery which can handle 25kA. The NOARK MCCBs I'm using are great for that reason, but they are also far too large to fit into this battery case.
Hi Andy I've had 3 of those jk screens fail...they still switch on/off but no pretty lights...
❤❤
Hmmm, ok, I will see how they go.
Great video. @7:28 can you please provide info for the ferrule crimping tool you are using for that big wire gauge? Thanks
Look at his website, should be listed there.
@@Meiestrix I did look, it shows up to 6mm2 (10 Awg) cable, he crimped ferrule for 16mm2 (6 Awg) in the video. From his website: Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit, Preciva Upgrade Double & Single Ferrules Connectors of 1500PCS, Hexagonal Sawtooth Self-Adjustable Ratchet AWG23-10 (0.25-6mm²) Wire Terminals Crimper Kit
also interested
3rd one from the top on my website: off-grid-garage.com/tools/
the best BMS for a 16 cell pack? which one do you recommend? Grazie
JK BMS. The only one with built in active balancers. The old small JK BMS for marine or RV applications or the JK Inverter BMS for,solar app,lcations.
JKBMS all the way
I only use JKBMSes
Jk bms
as linked in the video description...😉
🐸🐸🐸
🥇
@@OffGridGarageAustralia
Yes, i did it
Breaker is also a switch. You get something to turn off, and on 😂
That is the main purpose of it, yes. I will have an external breaker as well later on.
Hi Andy, Another great video. I would be keen for you to add the JKBMS charge rate in VRM and monitor over a few days. I have 2 x V14 and 1x V15 in my system. At one point I noticed DVCC had reduced the charge rate. I found at that moment The Cerbo was showing only 2 batteries, I added the charge rate to VRM and this is when I noticed one kept dropping out for a couple of hours each day, random time, and random when. I found it was one of the V14's so now I have 2 v15 and 1 V14. If it wasnt for VRM I wouldn't have known. Is has Taken a lot of talking with JK, but they have finally after many weeks and lots of screen shots told me if I send the 14 back they will replace. Now I just need to find out the AU post cost to return to find out if its even worth it.
Coming in the next videos... got your email as well...
Andy Have you tested these circuit breakers under full load to switch off?, because DC behavies very differently to AC.
No, I have not as I don't use such batteries with 125A.
The mega fuses have a much too low breaking capacity of just about 2.5kA anyway 😅
How many kA breaking capacity does the circuit breaker you installed have? 🤔
This one has 6kA. The NOARK Breakers I'm using in the battery shelf have 25kA but they are MCCBs, so a much larger footprint.
As I said, there is an external breaker as well as per regulations, so this one has more a 'switch' functionality.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I now also use MCCB DC circuit breakers from Solarlock with 160A / 25kA for my LiFePo4 blocks😉 Unfortunately, they are very large and only work with D.I.Y. and not with the finished 16s housings😅
I'm curious what are you running with all them batteries and panels
At the moment, just my garage, hot water and EV charging. I'm working towards connecting the whole house.
@@OffGridGarageAustraliaThat's a lot of batteries and everything for just a garage I thought you was at least running your whole house with all the panels and batteries you have for just a hot water heater and EV why you don't run your house and save have free power
Hi Andi
Megafuse ist eine schlechte idee, die meisten können nur 2500A (Durchschlagschutz, bei 54V und 15mOhm Innenwiderstand sind das 3600 A, da brennts dann im Ernstfall bzw gibt einen schönen Lichtbogen. NH Sicherung ist da die richtige Wahl. Der Automat hat 10kA Durchschlagfestigkeit, ist also auch in Ordnung
I'm using the NOARK MCCBs (as in my battery shelf). They come with 25kA breaking capacity. These are just too big for this small case.
IDEA...can the 3d printer create raised lettering? Then touch it with paint?
Yes, it can... good idea!
Hi, Is it already known when a new firmware update for JK Inverter BMS will be available? I hope that the Pylontech protocol for RS485 connection will be available soon.
Not sure, if they make a new one. JK is very quiet at the moment.
I have asked recently about PACE 485 - no, they don't plan to do it yet.
Okay, thanks for the information...
hi, i see a new and lever hinged cable cutter, which is not in your list of tools on the website. would you be so kind to share the details?
Yes, correct. I bought this particular one at the local hardware store for an overpriced amount as I needed it that same day.
I have now added a ratchet cable cutter on my website. This is a different design but can cut cables up to 400mm.
s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEDCUxh
@@OffGridGarageAustralia thanks for the suggestion, ordered it just now :)
7:35 How sure are you it has a good contact for both, especially when it is pulling 100A through?
As it is, the bottom one is not flat, definitely poor contact.
One tightened, the strands and ferrules will form to build a square with bets contact area. Have a look at the older videos, we have tested this in all details.
Hey thanks for all your Vids Great Job!
Please use zwillingsaderendhülsen anstatt zwei einzelne reinzumurksen 😂
I do, just didn't have any for 16mm.
They missed the GARDENA to JK adapter
Yes, exactly 😊
where can I get a 3d printed faceplate for the new JK BMS
You want the plate or just the file to print it yourself?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia I would like the plate but if that is not available then the file to print it.
You could have used C45 lugs for the breaker
Yes, if you have them...
Why do you use 2 cables of 16 mm2 instead of one cable of 35 mm2?
I didn't have any but lots of shorter 16mm cables.
Been watching your solar system via the Victron VRM portal. I guess you could say your system is undersized, because your batteries rarely go above 50% fully charged. Also, seems like you have a faulty BMS? (Saw the "No BMS" alarm recently - I guess that's because you were doing this)
Are you new to the channel?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia No, I've been watching your videos off and on for the last 5 years at least.
More Seplos...................... They must pay you 😆
to take their batteries and cases apart, right😅
Benutze Twinadernhülsen für die Kabel, die gibt es bis 25 mm²
I know, just don't have any at home. Do you just have them laying around by any chance?
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Ja, bin Elektromeister, sowas habe ich in mehreren Dutzend zu Hause herumliegen.
When do we hit 88K? I'm spreading the sword.
Thanks a lot for that! 88.888 is the next big milestone!
Hmmmm....if the cell 8+ and cell 9- balancer cables are connected togeter inside the JKBMS and there is a blown fuse between these two poles.....the whole current will pass through the thin balance cables....?? 💥
I hope they are not just bonded ...
Nooo. There will be no fuse and they are two different cables going back to the BMS. They are not directly connected or linked.
@@OffGridGarageAustralia
Yes, no fuse in your case, but there are battery boxes out there with a fuse between cell 8 and 9.
Have you checked if there is no connection between the 8+ and 9- inside the JKBMS? Maybe you can check this? Thank you.
Andy, somewhat confused. I have just done two battery boxes with jk bms and my balance loom looks the same as yours, but I don’t have the wire going to B9 neg. Did you add a wire?
Good option, breakers are not resistive so less heat. I'm only concerned that you used a chinese one , a good CE brand would be better.
As explained in the video, I will have external breakers which will handle the short current of such a battery and have the approvals. This one is more a switch...
The longer the balance cable, the higher the resistance. The higher the resistance, the higher the voltage drop. The higher the voltage drop, the higher the reported voltage error of the cells. The balancing will not be precise. Nice modification! Now if there was a way to convince Seplos to do the same.. 🙂
The voltage is measured when there is no balance current, so hardly any voltage drop on the leads.
@@JdZ-2023 It depends on the quality of the balance leads wires used.
Wow! You must have some super dooper German cables that has no voltage drop over 100m!!! Where do i get some???
Voltage drop only occurs when current is flowing. No current = no resistance = no voltage drop. This is why he mentioned that the BMS does not balance at the same time that it is measuring the voltage.
Thank you @kenl6880
@@kenl6880 it dosent matter who gives a shit when there's no current flowing he said there's no voltage drop in a cablw 100m long an inteligent person would have to assume his talking about a cable with current or voltage flowing!!! Its kike saying the width of the river dosent matter or effect the flow ir volume of water!!!
@@OffGridGarageAustralia so where do i get some of this UFO based technology cable???
@@groovetrain397 Any cable will do this trick!
Very brave? or foolhardy? Mounting a mechanical switch that was designed to be in the vertical plane? Will it jam or malfunction in the future? How do you know? I wouldnt recommend this approach - wrong mindset IMHO (unless the maker tells you otherwise of course)
Well, it is explained int he video... The CB is a switch and we will have a 'real' MCCB outside of the box.
There is no problem with mounting MCBs MCCBs or CBs sideways. Many panels have a horizontal design.
There's about 50%, or 100% differernce in your assumpions. Direct current is much more dangerous than alternating. But who am i tojjudge.
What assumption?
Sorry but this is not the way to do this. You need to check short circuit current. I'm not sure that MCB is rated for that job. You need a double pole MCB. Don't double up cables to increase current carrying capacity, if one cable fails then you're asking the remaining cable to do the whole job.
Well it's not an MCB for a start. Its a CB because its not miniature.
The MCB is rated for 10kA. In my opinion, it's too low. But: The mosfets in the BMS decrease the current. No matter what, i would choose a 25 or 50kA breaker. Or to be more precise: i would use a fuse and a battery disconnector, instead of an MCB and i would place the disconnector between the battery and the BMS - because that's the correct way to switch of any kind of power source.
We do twin leads very often for high amps, nothing wrong with that, if done correctly. Here it isn't done the way it should be. NEVER press two 16mm² into a 35mm² lug with a dye style press, this only works with a press that doesn't stop on way, but on pressure. Our crimper presses with 650bar, the crimps are always perfect. That's why i don't use the dye press anymore.
Hence I explained, that I will have another MCCB for each batter, just like in the battery shelf. The NOARK breakers I'm using have 25kA breaking capacity.
@@stefankaufmann8257 Welchen Crimper benutzt Ihr dann?
@@moestrei derzeit eine Dornpresse elektrohydraulisch EPG-ULTRA-ID, geht von 16mm² bis 240mm², wohlgemerkt ohne Gesenk. Mit der kann man auch Alu pressen. Ich verwende keine normale Gesenkpresse mehr freiwillig.
I'm not impressed with the way the bootlace ferrules are fitted into the breaker, using these has resulted in less contact area, and thus heat generated. You would have been better off fitting the two bare cables into the MCB, not that the MCB is suitable - AIC rating is too low.
We had these discussions before and I have discussed this with my sparky. No issues. A better solution would be to use twin ferrules, but if you don't have them atm...
@@OffGridGarageAustralia Ask a dozen different electricians and you'd probably get a multitude of different answers. Can you discharge maximum current through it for at least an hour and monitor it with an IR camera. It would be a good test, but it's only a 100 Ah pack, could get much hotter on a 280 Ah pack. I've recently removed a Victron DC rotary isolator from my system as it would get really hot at around 70c with around 180 amps passing through it, it had never been turned off under loaf either. Forgot mention, Victron actually say not to use ferrules on their MPPTs, and there is no difference between those and your MCB wire clamp design.
und den ganzen Scheiss für 135Ah
„Warum?“
-> weils geht
Der Weg ist das Ziel. 😊
It's my hobby...
Are there rainy days in Australia?! )