At 2:25 on the time line I would get some 2" wide shop roll sandpaper and clean the shaft both where the wheel mounts and the seal slides onto the shaft except where the seal actually conacts the shaft. This will make the wheel an easier fit to the axle. It will also make the seal installation work better without destroying the lip on the new seal. Also, I would apply some never seeze to the shaft area where the wheel slides onto the the shaft. This will make for an easy install and also help in case you ever have to remove the wheel in the future. Also clean the internal bore of the wheel of any rust or debris prior to installation of the wheel. Just some suggestions that may be of help to others.
I like Honda and Kohler engines as far as four stroke engines and pro series Stihl and Husqvarna for the two strokes. I use to like Echo equipment until they came out with the new engines. But don't like their new stuff.
Jeremy, I had never personally tried the self tapping screws and nail puller approach for pulling seals before - But will definitely keep your approach in mind for any future seal removal. A few years back, I mounted one of the blue HarborFreight engines that predates the Predator engines on a Roper Rally tiller. The engine was a very easy swap other than the belt cover that the crankshaft was rubbing against. The crankshaft made a very nice mark for me to use the appropriate holesaw for the crankshaft to stick out of and the problem was quickly resolved. Regarding the wheels, I had the severe misfortune of removing the wheels - It was a “Severe Pain” to say the least. Seems like I rigged up a puller and with some gentle heat from a large brazing tip with lots of pressure from the puller, Both wheels finally broke loose. Even with all of my years of experience working around equipment, I gained a few more grey hairs dealing with those wheels. As Always, I enjoy your great videos.
On my way to the bank two weeks ago a guy was just dragging a Bronco out to the curb. Needs carburetor work. Engine rotates, I’ll probably just buy a new carburetor.
Good technique on the seal removal 👍 I've also used a slide hammer/dent puller and screw it into the seal if you don't have a good purchase point to pry from. That works pretty good also!
Thank you! I used your technique on my Super Bronco yesterday and it worked great. I did have to drill a pilot hole before setting the screws. Now I just need some 90 weight gear oil, lol. Everything in my town is closed on Sunday.
I tried this trick a while back and just ended up ripping up the oil seal. Then in my attempt to remove it after all I scarred the axil. Finally got around to doing it right and replaced the shaft and seals successfully
At 2:25 on the time line I would get some 2" wide shop roll sandpaper and clean the shaft both where the wheel mounts and the seal slides onto the shaft except where the seal actually conacts the shaft. This will make the wheel an easier fit to the axle. It will also make the seal installation work better without destroying the lip on the new seal. Also, I would apply some never seeze to the shaft area where the wheel slides onto the the shaft. This will make for an easy install and also help in case you ever have to remove the wheel in the future. Also clean the internal bore of the wheel of any rust or debris prior to installation of the wheel. Just some suggestions that may be of help to others.
I cover all of that in part three of my video which will be coming out next week
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Good deal. I look forward to watching it as I enjoy your channel.
Nice job Jeremy 👍
Nice Tiller I'd toss the Chinese cookie cutter engine!! In the recycling ben.. and toss a new genuine Honda engine!! Just saying
Why? There’s nothing wrong with a Honda clone
I like Honda and Kohler engines as far as four stroke engines and pro series Stihl and Husqvarna for the two strokes. I use to like Echo equipment until they came out with the new engines. But don't like their new stuff.
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 I am not saying they are completely junk they are just made of poor quality metals!!
Jeremy, I had never personally tried the self tapping screws and nail puller approach for pulling seals before - But will definitely keep your approach in mind for any future seal removal. A few years back, I mounted one of the blue HarborFreight engines that predates the Predator engines on a Roper Rally tiller.
The engine was a very easy swap other than the belt cover that the crankshaft was rubbing against. The crankshaft made a very nice mark for me to use the appropriate holesaw for the crankshaft to stick out of and the problem was quickly resolved.
Regarding the wheels, I had the severe misfortune of removing the wheels - It was a “Severe Pain” to say the least. Seems like I rigged up a puller and with some gentle heat from a large brazing tip with lots of pressure from the puller, Both wheels finally broke loose. Even with all of my years of experience working around equipment, I gained a few more grey hairs dealing with those wheels.
As Always, I enjoy your great videos.
On my way to the bank two weeks ago a guy was just dragging a Bronco out to the curb. Needs carburetor work. Engine rotates, I’ll probably just buy a new carburetor.
Good technique on the seal removal 👍 I've also used a slide hammer/dent puller and screw it into the seal if you don't have a good purchase point to pry from. That works pretty good also!
Yessiir it does
Thank you! I used your technique on my Super Bronco yesterday and it worked great. I did have to drill a pilot hole before setting the screws. Now I just need some 90 weight gear oil, lol. Everything in my town is closed on Sunday.
I tried this trick a while back and just ended up ripping up the oil seal. Then in my attempt to remove it after all I scarred the axil. Finally got around to doing it right and replaced the shaft and seals successfully
Sorry you had trouble with such a simple task. Better luck next time!
Great video Jeremy. Learn something new everyday..
What is the numbers on the seal you installed on the troy built super bronco?
Thanks man. I have one of those with the exact problem.
Nice demonstration , don't ya just love working behind a monkey mechanic 👍👍🇺🇸
Monkey customers
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 got ta love em they keep ya busy 🤣👍👍🇺🇸
I just replaced all seals on one this summer and rebuilt carb, oil, plug and adjustment on valves
It’s like new now with paint job
I’ve heard of putting Lukas hub oil mixed with 90w oil when shaft is badly worn
Hey, My tiller still leaks oil when I changed them out 2 - 3 times. What else could be causing it to leak now? The seals are brand new.
Brging worn out maybe, use dial and measure movement of shaft on both sides
Thanks for the tips Jeremy. Great video buddy!!
Katywampus!! Don't need that!!
Good tips there on removing those seals
So far, the only trouble I have had is with the carburetor. Hopefully that will be the only thing...lol
What was the problem? My brother can't get his running. If you spray the gas in, it'll run but won't stay running by itself.
Carb jets are clogged
Thanks!
could i please have your email address im having a problem with my john deere x320 thank you
My channel name@gmail.com