There are a whole raft of techniques and ideas to get realistic chipping out there. Have any favourites? Are there any you've heard of but want to learn more about?
Glad to offer it. Oddly enough when I was introduced to sponge chipping it opened the door and changed the way I paint models. Seems simple, but it really allows us to think differently about what we do, and then opens us up to all kinds of different approaches to weathering.
I use the salt technique on some structures and rolling stock, but I use oil paints that mix with water or thinner. To apply I use a stiff stippling brush and some times a sponge. I prefer the brush over the sponge.
Thanks Phillip. So when you use the Salt technique, is this over factory applied paint or is it with an undecorated model? Once I finish this Weathering Basic series, one of my projects will be demonstrating the salt technique beginning with an undecorated model.
I like to use this on wood, I have used ( Winsor & Newton GRAPHIC MARKERS ) in vireos hues of gray and wood color so simulate old weathered wood. then apply salt and then paint with airbrush a color for the structure. when dry rub off the salt and clean with a light water wash to remove salt residue. then finish with weathering on the paint.
Great stuff :) If what I've demonstrated here is an "additive" technique, the salt technique you describe is definitely in the "subtractive" category and they can achieve more natural looking results, particularly on structures, but they also work well for rolling models too. Definitely material for a future video. :)
The main thing is to identify what parts are wood, and what parts are metal. For the areas that are wood, use a neutral to light grey colour to chip the wood if you're working on a factory-painted model. Then use dark brown for the metal parts. I find using a sponge as the best way to apply it.
It seems like the chipping that is the same color as the base color of the model would make sense to move to before the dot fade step rather than after the pin wash step. That way the chips all get a chance to fade in and any chips on the base color won’t stand out as much if you don’t get an exact color match.
I've done both. In some of my more recent start-to-finish projects, you'll see me do some chipping prior to either the fade or pin washes. In many ways it can be either or even both-and and then some. I think it's a good idea to be flexible.
The simple 'sponge method' technique can be quite effective. And if thicker paint is used, it adds texture, which can be desirable. Nice job with this turorial, and I look forward to future demonstrations. One question I've had (and I think a few others might too) is - is the manufactured 'chipping solutions' on the market really better than free D-I-Y solutions? (Which I think might have a subjective answer ;) )
I think it is subjective... although in truth, I just bought a jar of Chipping/Scratching Fluid from Ammo by Mig to try out and compare to my handy bottle of hairspray. Mig Jimenez makes a reasonable argument that formulations of hairspray vary from brand to country, so consistent results can be an issue. This is the rationale behind both Ammo by Mig and AK Interactive in creating their respective chipping fluids, so that modelers can have consistent results. Granted, hairspray usually smells nicer. ...of course, chipping fluids are for a different video, but I think a great discussion to start here, as it will shape what I do for that when I get to it.
There are a whole raft of techniques and ideas to get realistic chipping out there. Have any favourites? Are there any you've heard of but want to learn more about?
I learned something here. Thanks!!
Oh, I am so slow. I laughed at you eating the chips before even hearing and getting the joke. Thanks for the second laugh.
Good stuff, John. Thanks. My favorite chipping technique is using artist oils which can then be streaked below the chips.
Love it, Ron; you’re foreshadowing. :) Oils are fantastic for rust streaking which I get to in the next video when I get it done.
do you use them in the same way for the chipping itself Ron?
Thats an awesome technique, thanks for your help!
Glad to offer it. Oddly enough when I was introduced to sponge chipping it opened the door and changed the way I paint models. Seems simple, but it really allows us to think differently about what we do, and then opens us up to all kinds of different approaches to weathering.
I use the salt technique on some structures and rolling stock, but I use oil paints that mix with water or thinner. To apply I use a stiff stippling brush and some times a sponge. I prefer the brush over the sponge.
Thanks Phillip. So when you use the Salt technique, is this over factory applied paint or is it with an undecorated model? Once I finish this Weathering Basic series, one of my projects will be demonstrating the salt technique beginning with an undecorated model.
I like to use this on wood, I have used ( Winsor & Newton GRAPHIC MARKERS ) in vireos hues of gray and wood color so simulate old weathered wood. then apply salt and then paint with airbrush a color for the structure. when dry rub off the salt and clean with a light water wash to remove salt residue. then finish with weathering on the paint.
Great stuff :) If what I've demonstrated here is an "additive" technique, the salt technique you describe is definitely in the "subtractive" category and they can achieve more natural looking results, particularly on structures, but they also work well for rolling models too. Definitely material for a future video. :)
How would I model the chipping effect on a composite wood boxcar; like the ones built in WW II with outside bracing and wood sheathing?
The main thing is to identify what parts are wood, and what parts are metal. For the areas that are wood, use a neutral to light grey colour to chip the wood if you're working on a factory-painted model. Then use dark brown for the metal parts. I find using a sponge as the best way to apply it.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks!
It seems like the chipping that is the same color as the base color of the model would make sense to move to before the dot fade step rather than after the pin wash step. That way the chips all get a chance to fade in and any chips on the base color won’t stand out as much if you don’t get an exact color match.
I've done both. In some of my more recent start-to-finish projects, you'll see me do some chipping prior to either the fade or pin washes. In many ways it can be either or even both-and and then some. I think it's a good idea to be flexible.
The simple 'sponge method' technique can be quite effective. And if thicker paint is used, it adds texture, which can be desirable.
Nice job with this turorial, and I look forward to future demonstrations.
One question I've had (and I think a few others might too) is - is the manufactured 'chipping solutions' on the market really better than free D-I-Y solutions? (Which I think might have a subjective answer ;) )
I think it is subjective... although in truth, I just bought a jar of Chipping/Scratching Fluid from Ammo by Mig to try out and compare to my handy bottle of hairspray. Mig Jimenez makes a reasonable argument that formulations of hairspray vary from brand to country, so consistent results can be an issue. This is the rationale behind both Ammo by Mig and AK Interactive in creating their respective chipping fluids, so that modelers can have consistent results. Granted, hairspray usually smells nicer.
...of course, chipping fluids are for a different video, but I think a great discussion to start here, as it will shape what I do for that when I get to it.