JC I use a Fade of the cars color cut with 50% of Rubbing alcohol and a couple of drops of India ink. This can be applied with a wide brush in a Horizontal pattern. This is a fast method for a quick weathered Fleet of Freight cars. I also have used the pin wash method with oils, pastels, weathering powders, and acrylic paints. Each method has different looks.
I want to try this on a very large model, but it's my first try and I'm reluctant because I don't want to ruin it. It's a Vietnam era Huey, scale 1:16. I painted it with acrylics, so the oil paint should not be a problem. I want the weathering to be subtle, fading on the top, some dust on the belly side, a pin wash for the doors and panel lines and perhaps the countless rivets. I'm still uncertain what to do with the sides and the colorful tail. Here are some pictures: imgur.com/a/sSAiBql Any advice?
My apologies on the delay on this reply. It got buried, and I only spotted it tonight! The dust can always be added in a later step. If you're looking to fade it using the oil-dot technique, I'd go with zinc white, and various greens, with maybe some cream colours and yellow for the main body. Use yellow and red mostly on the tail, with maybe a little bit of white. The nice thing about this technique is that you can do several passes and add to it. Also, OilBrushers could give you another option there as well. I think one of their sets includes some greens in it. Nice model, I'd love to see how it turns out.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks. My progress is slow anyway and I already had a small accident. I taped off a rectangular area on the roof. That was probably some kind of coating to make the roof less slippery when the pilot had to climb up there in the morning to inspect the rotor. I had mixed up some green oil paints with thinner and applied it as a wash. As it dried, it turned more into an emerald green, not subtle at all. But I got it cleaned up and my second try was more sucessful. The fading also is already on the way, but it took me a while to dare brushing pure white oil paint onto the model. It's my first time that I do this and the work I put into it before it saw it's first drop of paint also took its time. Just look how cheap it looks if you buy it 'ready to fly': www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata/fetch?id=156466&d=1539616139 Almost no details, a horribly wrong landing gear from an entirely different model and the paint job is also not really great. I really think I'm on a good way, first time or not. I can't wait to take it out to the airfield and see it in the air.
Working on weathering, fading, and aging a short line GP30 used by Carolina Coastal Railroad (CLNA). These videos are so helpful! Coming up with all kinds of ideas to make it look like the actual faded, weathered, used locomotive. It's original dark blue has faded in the Southern sunny heat and rusted. Adding not only rust, but some grey to simulate the bluish bare metal that has been exposed around the rusted areas has made it look very much like the prototype. Thank you so much!!!
Thanks. I want to try to keep things fairly tight and moving, even if it is a bit jumpy. One doesn't necessarily need to see my every brush stroke in basic videos.
Hey JC, I know you did this a year ago, but I swear it feels like last week you and I were talking about this very thing> I don't know why this just popped up on my feed. Strange because I was discussing this with someone over on Tips & Tricks FB group. I feel this process, whether airbrushed or dot brushed is so important to the base of our weathering!
In terms of core color I choose to use Soft mixing white over Titanium. Titanium tends to have more of a bluish tint to it as opposed to Soft Mixing White.
I think you make a great point. Zinc white (which I think is the same thing as soft mixing white where I live) also works, and it is much more transparent than Titanium. I usually rely on the other colours present on the model to warm up the Titanium white... but sometimes an eggshell or off-white that leans a bit more yellow can also work nicely as it can help with the look of sun bleaching.
Nice video, John. I typically fade with an airbrushed wash of white or light gray. I've seen this process before but never tried it. I may have to try it out.
Thanks Ron. It's definitely worth trying. It also combines well with the airbrushed washes that you mention, so it's not an "either or" but can be "both and." :)
I model in N scale and use a variety of techniques, depending on what I am looking for. I use Bragdon powders, washes (both acrylic and oil) and oil. Each method has its' advantages and no one product is universal.
Great video JC. I know video is a few years old so hope you are still looking at comments. I'm going to weather my new fleet of BNSF Autoflood III Coal Hoppers that have an aluminum unpainted prototype. What you your thoughts on fading etc. I'll probably also want your thoughts on other weathering you'd recommend as aluminum doesn't have the typical weathering properties. Love your videos and products you recommend.
I appreciate your comments, and yes I’m still around even if I haven’t done too many videos lately. Aluminum goes a whitish grey as it oxidizes, and coal cars get covered in a grimy brownish black coal dust. Any weathering you do has these two things going on at the same type. I’d suggest emailing me through the “contact” tab, as I’d want to see what prototype pictures you’re wanting to emulate!
@@JCsRiptrack I'm looking at several prototype pictures on rrrailroadarchives and they vary depending on age since they were first introduced in 2004. I'm heading back to my train workshop and train club in the desert in about two weeks. I'll forward you some photo pictures then. I can't find your "contact" tab for your email? Where or what is it. Thanks. Looking forward to your input.
If you go to the channel's main page (ua-cam.com/users/jcsriptrack) and then click the "about" tab. You can then click on the "view email address" there. It saves bots from reading email addresses here.
I tend to do it as a cautionary measure to protect the surface on pre-painted cars just in case the thinners might react with the factory paint. However, Michael Rinaldi is a genuine master in this field, so yes, he is definitely worth paying attention to.
Great question. This technique works because of the properties of oils. Acrylics tend to dry too fast for this to work. However, there are some tricks that one can try with acrylics to make them behave like oils. I've not done the testing on what would work best, but you'd be getting into professional-level blenders and extenders. Getting started with oils is just a few key colours in small tubes (that will last for a very long time) and some thinner, and you're all set.
John, how critical is starting with a satin finish (vs. a gloss finish) for the dot fade technique? I am anxious to give this a try but do not have any flat to mix with my future (it is on order now...). Just wanted to know if the satin finish will make that much difference than using a gloss.
It will work reasonably well with a gloss. The satin gives the surface a slight bit of tooth that allows the oil colour to adhere a bit better to the surface of the model so that fading effect stays in place. The being said, I have done dot fading over a gloss coat and have been happy with the results.
Definitely use white, as it will help fade the markings. It depends on the kind of fading you're looking for. burnt umber, raw sienna, and black are all dark colours that you'll need to use sparingly, but they will work. Some bleaching tends to push stuff into a more yellowy look, but it depends on *where* the l car in question can be found in the world. Is it sun-bleached in an arid climate? Is it developing rust because of high humidity. Some of that will affect your choice of colours.
In one of your videos you mentioned there was a product by testors that you could use in place of the future polish as the beginning point. (if you don't have an airbrush), what was it?
Testors makes a couple of clearcoats, but they are lacquer based. Gloss Coat for glossy, and Dullcote for flat. You will need to let these coats cure fully, as they are lacquer based, and certain thinners for oil paints could attack them. There are a few clear coat options out there worth looking at.
Rubbing alcohol won’t work for oil paints. Usually you can get thinners from the same place you get oil paints as you kind of need them. I work with odourless ones as full-on turpentine can be unpleasant on the nostrils.
In the video, the main thing is the type of clearcoat, namely a satin finish. When I was working on these models, I think I did use an airbrush, which was 10 parts future floor polish with 1 part Tamiya Flat base. However, Games Workshop's Munitorium Varnish works very well as a satin clearcoat, and I do use that as well. Spray cans are certainly a faster way to go, but airbrush you have more control.
Have you ever used oil paints for your models either for painting or weathering? What do you use them for?
JC I use a Fade of the cars color cut with 50% of Rubbing alcohol and a couple of drops of India ink. This can be applied with a wide brush in a Horizontal pattern. This is a fast method for a quick weathered Fleet of Freight cars. I also have used the pin wash method with oils, pastels, weathering powders, and acrylic paints. Each method has different looks.
I want to try this on a very large model, but it's my first try and I'm reluctant because I don't want to ruin it. It's a Vietnam era Huey, scale 1:16. I painted it with acrylics, so the oil paint should not be a problem. I want the weathering to be subtle, fading on the top, some dust on the belly side, a pin wash for the doors and panel lines and perhaps the countless rivets. I'm still uncertain what to do with the sides and the colorful tail. Here are some pictures: imgur.com/a/sSAiBql
Any advice?
My apologies on the delay on this reply. It got buried, and I only spotted it tonight! The dust can always be added in a later step. If you're looking to fade it using the oil-dot technique, I'd go with zinc white, and various greens, with maybe some cream colours and yellow for the main body. Use yellow and red mostly on the tail, with maybe a little bit of white. The nice thing about this technique is that you can do several passes and add to it.
Also, OilBrushers could give you another option there as well. I think one of their sets includes some greens in it.
Nice model, I'd love to see how it turns out.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks. My progress is slow anyway and I already had a small accident. I taped off a rectangular area on the roof. That was probably some kind of coating to make the roof less slippery when the pilot had to climb up there in the morning to inspect the rotor. I had mixed up some green oil paints with thinner and applied it as a wash. As it dried, it turned more into an emerald green, not subtle at all. But I got it cleaned up and my second try was more sucessful. The fading also is already on the way, but it took me a while to dare brushing pure white oil paint onto the model.
It's my first time that I do this and the work I put into it before it saw it's first drop of paint also took its time. Just look how cheap it looks if you buy it 'ready to fly': www.hobbysquawk.com/filedata/fetch?id=156466&d=1539616139
Almost no details, a horribly wrong landing gear from an entirely different model and the paint job is also not really great. I really think I'm on a good way, first time or not. I can't wait to take it out to the airfield and see it in the air.
Working on weathering, fading, and aging a short line GP30 used by Carolina Coastal Railroad (CLNA). These videos are so helpful! Coming up with all kinds of ideas to make it look like the actual faded, weathered, used locomotive. It's original dark blue has faded in the Southern sunny heat and rusted. Adding not only rust, but some grey to simulate the bluish bare metal that has been exposed around the rusted areas has made it look very much like the prototype. Thank you so much!!!
You have some of the best edited model train videos on youtube. Very nice. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks. I want to try to keep things fairly tight and moving, even if it is a bit jumpy. One doesn't necessarily need to see my every brush stroke in basic videos.
Very smart. Those other videos just become tedious and then I don't watch them - who needs to watch paint dry?
Hey JC, I know you did this a year ago, but I swear it feels like last week you and I were talking about this very thing> I don't know why this just popped up on my feed. Strange because I was discussing this with someone over on Tips & Tricks FB group. I feel this process, whether airbrushed or dot brushed is so important to the base of our weathering!
Absolutely. It’s hard to pick which technique is “essential” but fading and pin washes rank on pretty equal terms for a must-do for weathering!
Thanks so much for creating this tutorial video. * subscribed *
In terms of core color I choose to use Soft mixing white over Titanium. Titanium tends to have more of a bluish tint to it as opposed to Soft Mixing White.
I think you make a great point. Zinc white (which I think is the same thing as soft mixing white where I live) also works, and it is much more transparent than Titanium. I usually rely on the other colours present on the model to warm up the Titanium white... but sometimes an eggshell or off-white that leans a bit more yellow can also work nicely as it can help with the look of sun bleaching.
Nice video, John. I typically fade with an airbrushed wash of white or light gray. I've seen this process before but never tried it. I may have to try it out.
Thanks Ron. It's definitely worth trying. It also combines well with the airbrushed washes that you mention, so it's not an "either or" but can be "both and." :)
@@JCsRiptrack I really like what you are doing here. I'm going to suggest your channel on my livestream tonight--my topic is weathering.
I’m flattered Ron, thank you! I hope to be in the gallery for your livestream! :)
I model in N scale and use a variety of techniques, depending on what I am looking for. I use Bragdon powders, washes (both acrylic and oil) and oil. Each method has its' advantages and no one product is universal.
Thanks Marty. You're absolutely correct. There are many different ways to approach this.
Thank you for this tutorial. Greeting from Belgium :)
If you use a piece of cardboard box as a pallet the card wicks the linseed carrier away helping the oils dry quicker.
doing some nice work....In video production :)
+IMRROcom Thanks Eric. Much appreciated. :)
The more I use oils in my projects (rust streaks, grime build up, and fading) the more I like them, but it does take a lot longer to finish a project.
very cool technique, I never seen that one before
Thanks Joe G. Oils used to scare me. Now they're an essential part of my workflow...
Great video JC. I know video is a few years old so hope you are still looking at comments. I'm going to weather my new fleet of BNSF Autoflood III Coal Hoppers that have an aluminum unpainted prototype. What you your thoughts on fading etc. I'll probably also want your thoughts on other weathering you'd recommend as aluminum doesn't have the typical weathering properties. Love your videos and products you recommend.
I appreciate your comments, and yes I’m still around even if I haven’t done too many videos lately. Aluminum goes a whitish grey as it oxidizes, and coal cars get covered in a grimy brownish black coal dust. Any weathering you do has these two things going on at the same type. I’d suggest emailing me through the “contact” tab, as I’d want to see what prototype pictures you’re wanting to emulate!
@@JCsRiptrack I'm looking at several prototype pictures on rrrailroadarchives and they vary depending on age since they were first introduced in 2004. I'm heading back to my train workshop and train club in the desert in about two weeks. I'll forward you some photo pictures then. I can't find your "contact" tab for your email? Where or what is it. Thanks. Looking forward to your input.
If you go to the channel's main page (ua-cam.com/users/jcsriptrack) and then click the "about" tab. You can then click on the "view email address" there. It saves bots from reading email addresses here.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks, Got it. I'll be in touch when I get back to my trains.
Actually you don’t need any varnish before oils. Just search “Oil paint rendering by Michael Rinaldi” on UA-cam
I tend to do it as a cautionary measure to protect the surface on pre-painted cars just in case the thinners might react with the factory paint. However, Michael Rinaldi is a genuine master in this field, so yes, he is definitely worth paying attention to.
Great tutorial! Would this work with acrylic paints as well? Or does it just work with oils?
Great question. This technique works because of the properties of oils. Acrylics tend to dry too fast for this to work. However, there are some tricks that one can try with acrylics to make them behave like oils. I've not done the testing on what would work best, but you'd be getting into professional-level blenders and extenders. Getting started with oils is just a few key colours in small tubes (that will last for a very long time) and some thinner, and you're all set.
John, how critical is starting with a satin finish (vs. a gloss finish) for the dot fade technique? I am anxious to give this a try but do not have any flat to mix with my future (it is on order now...). Just wanted to know if the satin finish will make that much difference than using a gloss.
It will work reasonably well with a gloss. The satin gives the surface a slight bit of tooth that allows the oil colour to adhere a bit better to the surface of the model so that fading effect stays in place. The being said, I have done dot fading over a gloss coat and have been happy with the results.
John, What colors would you recommend for fading a white model? Im thinking of using white, burnt umber, raw sienna, and a dark grey / black.
Definitely use white, as it will help fade the markings. It depends on the kind of fading you're looking for. burnt umber, raw sienna, and black are all dark colours that you'll need to use sparingly, but they will work. Some bleaching tends to push stuff into a more yellowy look, but it depends on *where* the l car in question can be found in the world. Is it sun-bleached in an arid climate? Is it developing rust because of high humidity. Some of that will affect your choice of colours.
In one of your videos you mentioned there was a product by testors that you could use in place of the future polish as the beginning point. (if you don't have an airbrush), what was it?
Testors makes a couple of clearcoats, but they are lacquer based. Gloss Coat for glossy, and Dullcote for flat. You will need to let these coats cure fully, as they are lacquer based, and certain thinners for oil paints could attack them. There are a few clear coat options out there worth looking at.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks for the reply.
@@JCsRiptrack When doing the dot fading, if you don't have the odorless spirits can you use rubbing alcohol?
Rubbing alcohol won’t work for oil paints. Usually you can get thinners from the same place you get oil paints as you kind of need them. I work with odourless ones as full-on turpentine can be unpleasant on the nostrils.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks for replying.
What is the clear coat that you use in this video? Spray can or airbrush?
In the video, the main thing is the type of clearcoat, namely a satin finish. When I was working on these models, I think I did use an airbrush, which was 10 parts future floor polish with 1 part Tamiya Flat base. However, Games Workshop's Munitorium Varnish works very well as a satin clearcoat, and I do use that as well. Spray cans are certainly a faster way to go, but airbrush you have more control.