Another fantastic series. I am anxious for more. I'm of a mind that rust should be varied among its victims. I made some real rust with a metal object submerged in vinegar (do it outdoors and let it sit over night). I have also have used common spices - cinnamon, cumin and curry.
Thanks Kevin, more is definitely coming. Interesting use of the real rust. I've seen/heard other modelers making use of it. I expect that spices are essentially raw pigments in their own right.
The question that I have is, if you're weathering a black gondola, is there really a point to chipping the area before applying the rust colors? Assume that I have already done a dot fade to remove the shine from the car. I have the two citadel paints you mentioned before, the brown ones. Also, I don't have an air brush, how would you tackle applying the rust, with just a regular brush? Thanks.
An airbrush is optional for most weathering applications, so all of it can be done with brushes and sponges. For a black gondola you could start with Mournfang Brown lightly applied with a torn sponge. Darker rust chips are something you could retroactively add with a fine brush if you feel it is needed. Gondolas are good to practice on, because you can start with the interior, which are almost always entirely coated in mottled rust patterns. Does that help?
Are you using Lahmian Medium with the game workshop paints for the haloing effect? Because I didn't see it listed in your description but you mentioned a medium in that part of the video. And are you using their Air Caste Thinner or something else to thin the paints?
I believe I was using the airbrush for it, so using mournfang brown mixed with Lahmian medium, I believe. It's been a while since I did that video, and it's time to update it!
Well, the Forgeworld Imperial Armour Model Masterclass book changed the way I paint. :) It opened up the world of military modelling to me, and I've since tried bringing it to model railroading :)
Hi Jack. The Grex AIrbrush I use is the Genesis XG, along with their AC1810-A compressor. It's no longer made, as they've replaced it with the XGi, which has more flexibility options to it. Here's a link for a full kit: amzn.to/2E6l1pg and the airbrush alone: amzn.to/2P89mHz --These do work well for all kinds of paint including acrylics. I also am building an airbrush playlist that you may find useful too: ua-cam.com/play/PLxNYoknHPrDqcaAY32FB2QPra5Ua0slio.html
Hi Joe G, my airbrush is a Grex Genesis XG dual-action gravity fed airbrush. I've had it for 10 years, and it's the best investment I've ever made as far as my modelling hobby. I think now it's the Genesis XGi, as they've done some tweaks on it. Grex airbrushes use the same fittings as Iwata.
First, it's useful to do rusting in multiple passes, a little at a time. Your final photo of the Soo gondola showed some sponged darker rust over the airbrushed layer. It looks good. One detail I would stress is that when it comes to nature, vary your hues. Each pass should have a slightly different formula of rusty colors, not just dark/light tone, but more red or more clay or more brown. Compare with your "what is a halo" photograph. Second, an idea for another video should be what I call kickup. When a train car sits in a wet yard, or travels across a wet landscape, the rain spatters and moist dust are kicked up from the ground and settles on the undercarriage and lower sides of the train car. Depending on the geology of the area, some of it is clay, some of it is pulverized ballast stone, and some of it is rust. The moisture accelerates the rust of the ironworks as well. This is quite different from the colors you see about 2m or 6ft from the ground.
+Ed Halley Definitely worth another video. The next video does basic dirt and dust, but what you’re talking about is something a bit different. There’s a neat splatter technique that I’ve been itching to try.
What are your favourite ways to apply rust to your model? What works well? What hasn't? Let us know!
Another fantastic series. I am anxious for more. I'm of a mind that rust should be varied among its victims. I made some real rust with a metal object submerged in vinegar (do it outdoors and let it sit over night). I have also have used common spices - cinnamon, cumin and curry.
Thanks Kevin, more is definitely coming. Interesting use of the real rust. I've seen/heard other modelers making use of it. I expect that spices are essentially raw pigments in their own right.
Really appreciate this important aspect of increasing realism and the immersive affect of rust streaks.
Great explanation, John. That is exactly how I do rust streaks.
Thanks Ron. Oils are great for this kind of work. Pretty much streaks of any kind, rust or otherwise. :)
(Ron's video on how he does it is here: ua-cam.com/video/oKZWsIOHCBU/v-deo.html )
I just keep mine outside and let it rust naturally. :) Great video. -Mark
If I did that here, it'd get gummed up with snow and mud... ;)
The question that I have is, if you're weathering a black gondola, is there really a point to chipping the area before applying the rust colors? Assume that I have already done a dot fade to remove the shine from the car. I have the two citadel paints you mentioned before, the brown ones. Also, I don't have an air brush, how would you tackle applying the rust, with just a regular brush? Thanks.
An airbrush is optional for most weathering applications, so all of it can be done with brushes and sponges. For a black gondola you could start with Mournfang Brown lightly applied with a torn sponge. Darker rust chips are something you could retroactively add with a fine brush if you feel it is needed. Gondolas are good to practice on, because you can start with the interior, which are almost always entirely coated in mottled rust patterns. Does that help?
@@JCsRiptrack Thank you for the advice, I appreciate it.
Are you using Lahmian Medium with the game workshop paints for the haloing effect? Because I didn't see it listed in your description but you mentioned a medium in that part of the video. And are you using their Air Caste Thinner or something else to thin the paints?
I believe I was using the airbrush for it, so using mournfang brown mixed with Lahmian medium, I believe. It's been a while since I did that video, and it's time to update it!
Things warhammer painters wish they knew.
Well, the Forgeworld Imperial Armour Model Masterclass book changed the way I paint. :) It opened up the world of military modelling to me, and I've since tried bringing it to model railroading :)
What model Grex airbrush are you using (or do you recommend for use with acrylics)?
Hi Jack. The Grex AIrbrush I use is the Genesis XG, along with their AC1810-A compressor. It's no longer made, as they've replaced it with the XGi, which has more flexibility options to it. Here's a link for a full kit: amzn.to/2E6l1pg and the airbrush alone: amzn.to/2P89mHz --These do work well for all kinds of paint including acrylics. I also am building an airbrush playlist that you may find useful too: ua-cam.com/play/PLxNYoknHPrDqcaAY32FB2QPra5Ua0slio.html
What is the brand of air brush do you use? Keep up the good work, I thoroughly enjoy these series
Hi Joe G, my airbrush is a Grex Genesis XG dual-action gravity fed airbrush. I've had it for 10 years, and it's the best investment I've ever made as far as my modelling hobby. I think now it's the Genesis XGi, as they've done some tweaks on it. Grex airbrushes use the same fittings as Iwata.
First, it's useful to do rusting in multiple passes, a little at a time. Your final photo of the Soo gondola showed some sponged darker rust over the airbrushed layer. It looks good. One detail I would stress is that when it comes to nature, vary your hues. Each pass should have a slightly different formula of rusty colors, not just dark/light tone, but more red or more clay or more brown. Compare with your "what is a halo" photograph.
Second, an idea for another video should be what I call kickup. When a train car sits in a wet yard, or travels across a wet landscape, the rain spatters and moist dust are kicked up from the ground and settles on the undercarriage and lower sides of the train car. Depending on the geology of the area, some of it is clay, some of it is pulverized ballast stone, and some of it is rust. The moisture accelerates the rust of the ironworks as well. This is quite different from the colors you see about 2m or 6ft from the ground.
+Ed Halley Definitely worth another video. The next video does basic dirt and dust, but what you’re talking about is something a bit different. There’s a neat splatter technique that I’ve been itching to try.
You should really try not to record a video in a tunnel. Too tinny and echoey. Bad audio will kill a video.
You’re right. My audio has improved greatly since this early one. I plan on revising this early video. :)