I was looking for "suzuki slipper clutch", then I found yours and i never heard of this technology.. quite an explanation. Thanks for the info, it's really useful.
I'm pretty sure you are describing the back torque limiting feature... as the hub slides outward on the ramps under heavy decelleration spring tension is removed, allowing slip... newer systems are much more refined and capable
Yeah thats what I thought. But when the cam set gets worn it will work in a similar way under acceleration. Lessening pressure on the clutch plates and there for causes slippage
don't "under estimate" the effectiveness of the Anti-Judder mechanism in controlling "anti-judder" on take off! I've tried removing them on a gixxer and it was eye popping how bad it "juddered" on take off! (only fix was putting the anti-judder device back in... still scratching my head on that one! LoL!)
I believe the problem with the cam is this. The cam moves to a point and stops upon acceleration. The stop point is an interruption in the grip on the clutch plates, thus giving a dynamic point in the pull that can be overcome by the engine. Then it slips. This is the debate.. The fix is to weld the 2 pieces together. The inner cam should be welded above the plane of the outer piece by about 4mm. That makes it harder to pull in the clutch at the handlebar lever. My next test is to try only 2mm so it is not so hard to pull. Then shim it (using washers) in the top of the pressure plate if it still slips.
I wish I could stop mine slipping. I've wasted so much time and money but can't stop the slipping. I want to keep the bike but I'm fed up with it slipping. No one I know can do the weld mod. It slips when the engine is warm/hot but not when cold. I've got Barnett springs and new EBC clutch plates fitted months ago along with a new slave cylinder. Ive had to put up with the slipping a year now. Update.a year on...I've had the weld mod done to weld the centre plates together and it's fixed the slipping. Been riding a few months without clutch issues.
@@lewisreinhardt9425 no mate I just had a huge bill to pay from my MOT as my front brakes needed refurbishing and im skint but It's not something I'm worried about to be honest as I've met so many owners with a TLR and no one has given me any warnings about the cams so I'm willing to take the risk. I have added engine restore into mine a couple of times along with the best fuel injector cleaners and it's running perfect. How many miles had you covered when you had the cam issue? I can't remember if you said and wasn't we chatting on another video🤔 I don't see the comments here we had here. The only issue I have is mine doesn't go into neutral unless I rev the bike up or turn the engine off then select neutral. Not sure what's up there and the mechanic doesn't see it as a problem so hasn't done anything about it.
Just for reference, my clutch slips when warm and only in 5th or 6th which is apparently very common for these bikes. It only does it intermittently, and is sometimes difficult to reproduce. So even the system shown in this video with regards to the amount of wear (very minimal) causes the clutch to slip. I guess the only real cure, as I mentioned in this video, is to weld up the two parts and fit appropriately sized springs, which will be my next job I guess :)
i have a 2001 TL1000S and it slips till it worms up when i bought the bike it has upgraded clutch springs i have the old ones in a box. very annoying is there away to stop this slipping happening?
I was looking for "suzuki slipper clutch", then I found yours and i never heard of this technology.. quite an explanation. Thanks for the info, it's really useful.
I'm pretty sure you are describing the back torque limiting feature... as the hub slides outward on the ramps under heavy decelleration spring tension is removed, allowing slip... newer systems are much more refined and capable
Yeah thats what I thought. But when the cam set gets worn it will work in a similar way under acceleration. Lessening pressure on the clutch plates and there for causes slippage
don't "under estimate" the effectiveness of the Anti-Judder mechanism in controlling "anti-judder" on take off! I've tried removing them on a gixxer and it was eye popping how bad it "juddered" on take off! (only fix was putting the anti-judder device back in... still scratching my head on that one! LoL!)
I believe the problem with the cam is this. The cam moves to a point and stops upon acceleration. The stop point is an interruption in the grip on the clutch plates, thus giving a dynamic point in the pull that can be overcome by the engine. Then it slips.
This is the debate..
The fix is to weld the 2 pieces together. The inner cam should be welded above the plane of the outer piece by about 4mm. That makes it harder to pull in the clutch at the handlebar lever. My next test is to try only 2mm so it is not so hard to pull. Then shim it (using washers) in the top of the pressure plate if it still slips.
I wish I could stop mine slipping. I've wasted so much time and money but can't stop the slipping. I want to keep the bike but I'm fed up with it slipping. No one I know can do the weld mod. It slips when the engine is warm/hot but not when cold. I've got Barnett springs and new EBC clutch plates fitted months ago along with a new slave cylinder. Ive had to put up with the slipping a year now. Update.a year on...I've had the weld mod done to weld the centre plates together and it's fixed the slipping. Been riding a few months without clutch issues.
Have you replaced the cam set. I'm pretty sure this explanation is wrong on how this slipper clutch works
@@lewisreinhardt9425 no mate I just had a huge bill to pay from my MOT as my front brakes needed refurbishing and im skint but It's not something I'm worried about to be honest as I've met so many owners with a TLR and no one has given me any warnings about the cams so I'm willing to take the risk. I have added engine restore into mine a couple of times along with the best fuel injector cleaners and it's running perfect. How many miles had you covered when you had the cam issue? I can't remember if you said and wasn't we chatting on another video🤔 I don't see the comments here we had here.
The only issue I have is mine doesn't go into neutral unless I rev the bike up or turn the engine off then select neutral. Not sure what's up there and the mechanic doesn't see it as a problem so hasn't done anything about it.
Just for reference, my clutch slips when warm and only in 5th or 6th which is apparently very common for these bikes. It only does it intermittently, and is sometimes difficult to reproduce. So even the system shown in this video with regards to the amount of wear (very minimal) causes the clutch to slip. I guess the only real cure, as I mentioned in this video, is to weld up the two parts and fit appropriately sized springs, which will be my next job I guess :)
a welded clutch center would help tremendously.
there is a gentleman in our group Who welds them.
How do you get the nut that fastens the basket loose? Mine has a dimple from a punch that keeps it locked into place.
Excellent video.
i have a 2001 TL1000S and it slips till it worms up when i bought the bike it has upgraded clutch springs i have the old ones in a box. very annoying is there away to stop this slipping happening?
Engine oil and clutch springs.
This is the wrong way around.
That's what I think too
Omg!why is that when people makes a video, they talk so softly! Speak up! !! what? ! What! ?can't hear you!
Use headphones. simple.