I feel like a supercharged stock motor with a better clutch running 300 whp is the way to go. The car with how light it is is the most balanced at 300 horses. Put it on coil overs and you have the best of both worlds handling and good power. Perfect for reliability while balancing budget and keeping the car balanced. If you bring it up to 500 your breaking things and you can’t push the car as hard in the mountains or on the track without worrying about killing yourself.
Idk about stock engine going up to 500whp. Unless you mean the block instead. I see people with bent and broken connecting rods around 300-350whp all the time. From everything I've seen, if you wanna go above 300whp, you're gonna want forged internals, or else you're playing a risky game. I have a buddy who just blew up his motor at about 320whp
@@RealTalkOttawa Yeah that should be perfectly fine. Very low risk of anything breaking. That's kinda the "standard" tune. Most turbos and supercharger kits come with an ECU tune and it's usually in that 240-270 range for that exact reason. You can keep your clutch too. Only cheap mod I might recommend with it is a catch can. I've heard it helps keep particulates out of the engine for a better chance at a longer life. Also, if you can, a custom dyno tune from a good shop is usually better than a stock tune. They can look at your individual car and exhaust setup and make the tune more precise. A good tune goes a long way to keeping things reliable. Best of luck to you! I'm getting ready to install my supercharger here in a few weeks myself :D
Tune, fuel quality and low end torque are the biggest factors. Low end torque is not good on the stock rods but they do well at higher RPMs. Just can't put too much load on the engine or "lug" it.
@@I-didnt-ask-you Yeah, that's why it seems like centrifugal superchargers generally don't break these engines as easily as turbos or roots style superchargers. I saw one guy who had a custom tuned centrifugal supercharger at 320whp on a stock engine and they tracked it regularly for years with no problems. So tune matters a lot, but in my personal opinion from the research I've done I think if you don't wanna break your engine, stay under 300whp if it's stock internals. If you wanna go over 300, you've gotta open it up and replace the rods and pistons.
For 2 liter BRZ Brian Crower makes good internals. And after that get something custom for the pistons like Manley piston to easily break 10k rpm. Def upgrade the clutch before that tho. Idk if it can handle the rpm but I sure as hell wouldn't want to find out.
@@liamc8085 8-8.5k rpm sounds feasible, 9k's a stretch, but 10k? What does someone have to do to reach it with a square bore/stroke ratio, 500cc per cylinder piston engine and not rip it apart with the piston speeds alone? Not even Honda went above 9k with the S2000 and lowered the redline for the F22C because of piston speeds
@@Icemann336 you build for it... like he said, there are rods and pistons, built to take the abuse of high RPM... what i am more worried about is the valve springs... they need to keep up, or you slap the valve with the piston... it's a vary tight combustion chamber... 😅 also, you can't compare forged internals to the cast internals of a stock engine.... stock is built to a certain tolerance to be good enough, yet fast and cheap for mass product. they keep it from blowing up, with limiters... GT86 limiter is set to 7.5k stock.
@@RealTalkOttawa well, first step for more power is, better air flow. intake/exhaust/tune. next step up would be adding intake and throttle body spacers, along with a larger throttle body and injectors then retune... (quad throttle bodies are an option on the FA20😊) add lighter belt pulleys as well, and that should make the stock internals really sing.... next it gets more involved, and expensive... I'd suggest a banks data monster, and throttle control. these will help keep track of what is happening to the engine, as you are playing with the RPM limit. the more data you get, the more fine tuning you can do. now onto more power making on an N/A. the engine is a pump, and the faster you can make it pump, the better. this requires lightening things like the pulleys, flywheel, pistons/rods, etc... these parts need to be high quality, or 💥 Valve springs are important, if they can't keep up with the higher RPM in the next tune, well... the valves will float, the piston will hit the valve at an extremely high rate of speed..... 💥💥💥🔥🙊 Now.... all this, will make the car... different to drive, to say the least... it will have a much heavier clutch feel, and need to be revved higher to take off, due to the momentum of heavier parts being gone... Race car vibes... and would need to be driven as such... so if you are not planning on driving it to the limit all the time, but more daily, I'd suggest sticking to just the external bits, and stock rev limiter... Stop where i talked about the Banks monitors... ya don't really need anything more then that for road use, ya don't even need as big of injectors as you would for the high rpm race engine build... Remember, the rest of the car is just as important as the engine... my mods started with body stiffening (strut towers/fender braces/ect.)... and man... world of difference, for a momentum car... .... and this turned into a rant... 😅 Goodluck :3
Seeing how much work you have to put in just to end up like all the other poorly modded brzs out there makes me just wanna save the money on the mods and just get a used Cayman
@@JamesCook-uo7wy honestly the stock power is plenty but if you desire more power, modding this car is just usually kinda ugly. Unless you really know what you’re doing, you’ll lose everything you saved on maintenance when it comes time to sell. Porsches hold value best in their class, modded brzs are a dime a dozen on Facebook marketplace cause no one wants someone else’s sketchy handiwork. Lot of people forget about resale value 🙂.
@@samstedman409 Yeah well pros and cons for both. But im rly enjoying my stock 86 right now always fun driving it and not planning to sell it ever. Next target is a 911 🙂
Very late, I know. But Ace headers and a tune will get you right about 200whp. The JDL 4-2-1 (or something like that) will get similar power too, but most of the headers and tune will be between 185-190whp. So E85 plus Ace headers Will get you at least 210. But still his numbers are high
@@imcertainlygay8680 nah that’s too expensive only to be just as slow, my 86 was more of a fresh out of highschool budget car. i’m doing things right this time and just getting a 5.0 lol
@@86kevinn it’s all about design and the type of header. Unfortunately people ‘need’ that UEL sound, so they sacrifice power for that. I also did forget to mention, but the Ace headers compared to headers with similar power differ in another important way, and that is area under the curve. Not only does Ace have the highest peak power (within half a horse with some competitors), but when you look at power throughout the curve it is higher in pretty much every rpm range, and that’s what sets it apart.
CAI don't do shit for these cars, if anything you lose power. maximum you can get from headers and a tune is like 15hp, full exhaust and e85? low 190's if you're lucky. this is all bullshit...
I wouldn’t say this is all BS, but I wouldn’t say it is accurate. Most CAI’s decrease power because they actually get hotter air over the stock intake because the stock intake is pretty much as ‘cold’ as you can get. Another missed fact in the video is the fact that CAI’s don’t do anything unless tuned. That doesn’t mean all intakes don’t produce power like that though. You can find it on the general forums, but stock tuned car vs TRD intake tuned and the car got 14 whp. As for FBO’s, CSG’s tune with the Ace header is right about 200whp, but that’s with the holy grail header rather than most UEL and other headers people get which do help but not that much. I could pretty much say Ace headers, good front pipe, any aftermarket catback, actual good intake, tune, and E85 could get you at least 220whp. That’s if it’s tuned right and has pretty good parts.
I feel like a supercharged stock motor with a better clutch running 300 whp is the way to go. The car with how light it is is the most balanced at 300 horses. Put it on coil overs and you have the best of both worlds handling and good power. Perfect for reliability while balancing budget and keeping the car balanced. If you bring it up to 500 your breaking things and you can’t push the car as hard in the mountains or on the track without worrying about killing yourself.
Agreed
Dont agree
Thank you for making this video it is the exact information I was looking for and was straight forward and well put together, again thanks!!👍🏼
This videos going to rack up a lot of attention
Don't need to change out the fuel pump unless you're pushing at or beyond ~450HP per Counter Space Garage
Idk about stock engine going up to 500whp. Unless you mean the block instead. I see people with bent and broken connecting rods around 300-350whp all the time. From everything I've seen, if you wanna go above 300whp, you're gonna want forged internals, or else you're playing a risky game. I have a buddy who just blew up his motor at about 320whp
I just picked a 2017 up and I'm trying to get it up a bit but not too much. maybe around 250-270 range
@@RealTalkOttawa
Yeah that should be perfectly fine. Very low risk of anything breaking. That's kinda the "standard" tune. Most turbos and supercharger kits come with an ECU tune and it's usually in that 240-270 range for that exact reason. You can keep your clutch too.
Only cheap mod I might recommend with it is a catch can. I've heard it helps keep particulates out of the engine for a better chance at a longer life. Also, if you can, a custom dyno tune from a good shop is usually better than a stock tune. They can look at your individual car and exhaust setup and make the tune more precise. A good tune goes a long way to keeping things reliable.
Best of luck to you! I'm getting ready to install my supercharger here in a few weeks myself :D
Tune, fuel quality and low end torque are the biggest factors. Low end torque is not good on the stock rods but they do well at higher RPMs. Just can't put too much load on the engine or "lug" it.
@@I-didnt-ask-you
Yeah, that's why it seems like centrifugal superchargers generally don't break these engines as easily as turbos or roots style superchargers. I saw one guy who had a custom tuned centrifugal supercharger at 320whp on a stock engine and they tracked it regularly for years with no problems.
So tune matters a lot, but in my personal opinion from the research I've done I think if you don't wanna break your engine, stay under 300whp if it's stock internals. If you wanna go over 300, you've gotta open it up and replace the rods and pistons.
What about crank, rods, pistons, new heads and inlet manifold?
Stock air intake is already a cold air intake. Very little room for improvement other than changing the filter and maybe the snorkel.
I own one.....if your not tracking....its still an amazing handling fun car...IMO just do the basics....fix the torque dip
Anything above 300whp I suggest build the engine it’s going to blow ,300whp is safe with stock internals
What would you suggest for a 400hp brz?
@@spaceflighthistory5362 engine swap
you can go way more hp on N/A set up... but of course you need to build the internals and go for higher rpm 😋
For 2 liter BRZ Brian Crower makes good internals. And after that get something custom for the pistons like Manley piston to easily break 10k rpm. Def upgrade the clutch before that tho. Idk if it can handle the rpm but I sure as hell wouldn't want to find out.
@@liamc8085
8-8.5k rpm sounds feasible, 9k's a stretch, but 10k? What does someone have to do to reach it with a square bore/stroke ratio, 500cc per cylinder piston engine and not rip it apart with the piston speeds alone? Not even Honda went above 9k with the S2000 and lowered the redline for the F22C because of piston speeds
I'm kinda new to the car scene, but I want to take my Brz to its limits but trying to keep it N/A because I love instant power.
@@Icemann336 you build for it... like he said, there are rods and pistons, built to take the abuse of high RPM... what i am more worried about is the valve springs... they need to keep up, or you slap the valve with the piston... it's a vary tight combustion chamber... 😅
also, you can't compare forged internals to the cast internals of a stock engine....
stock is built to a certain tolerance to be good enough, yet fast and cheap for mass product.
they keep it from blowing up, with limiters... GT86 limiter is set to 7.5k stock.
@@RealTalkOttawa well, first step for more power is, better air flow.
intake/exhaust/tune.
next step up would be adding intake and throttle body spacers, along with a larger throttle body and injectors then retune... (quad throttle bodies are an option on the FA20😊) add lighter belt pulleys as well, and that should make the stock internals really sing....
next it gets more involved, and expensive...
I'd suggest a banks data monster, and throttle control. these will help keep track of what is happening to the engine, as you are playing with the RPM limit. the more data you get, the more fine tuning you can do.
now onto more power making on an N/A.
the engine is a pump, and the faster you can make it pump, the better.
this requires lightening things like the pulleys, flywheel, pistons/rods, etc...
these parts need to be high quality, or 💥
Valve springs are important, if they can't keep up with the higher RPM in the next tune, well...
the valves will float, the piston will hit the valve at an extremely high rate of speed..... 💥💥💥🔥🙊
Now.... all this, will make the car... different to drive, to say the least...
it will have a much heavier clutch feel, and need to be revved higher to take off, due to the momentum of heavier parts being gone...
Race car vibes...
and would need to be driven as such...
so if you are not planning on driving it to the limit all the time, but more daily, I'd suggest sticking to just the external bits, and stock rev limiter... Stop where i talked about the Banks monitors... ya don't really need anything more then that for road use, ya don't even need as big of injectors as you would for the high rpm race engine build...
Remember, the rest of the car is just as important as the engine...
my mods started with body stiffening (strut towers/fender braces/ect.)... and man... world of difference, for a momentum car...
.... and this turned into a rant... 😅
Goodluck :3
That 200whp build is flawed. Each gain is at different parts of the hp curve. You just can't add the gains together.
When bro said cai I clicked off the vid 🤣
Tight tight tight yeah!!!
Seeing how much work you have to put in just to end up like all the other poorly modded brzs out there makes me just wanna save the money on the mods and just get a used Cayman
Thought of the same before I bought mine but after seeing the maintenance cost I decided to pick up the gt86
@@JamesCook-uo7wy honestly the stock power is plenty but if you desire more power, modding this car is just usually kinda ugly. Unless you really know what you’re doing, you’ll lose everything you saved on maintenance when it comes time to sell. Porsches hold value best in their class, modded brzs are a dime a dozen on Facebook marketplace cause no one wants someone else’s sketchy handiwork. Lot of people forget about resale value 🙂.
@@samstedman409 Yeah well pros and cons for both. But im rly enjoying my stock 86 right now always fun driving it and not planning to sell it ever. Next target is a 911 🙂
You forgot to upgrade the cams and the injectors and the intake manifold before going to boost.
I know my south africans when I hear them😉
Awesome video
these numbers are off, headers and e85 gets ya around 190whp at most
Very late, I know. But Ace headers and a tune will get you right about 200whp. The JDL 4-2-1 (or something like that) will get similar power too, but most of the headers and tune will be between 185-190whp. So E85 plus Ace headers Will get you at least 210. But still his numbers are high
Should’ve gotten the 2.4L😂
@@TRD-FRS yea i found it weird how ace was the only one that gave the most power i wish i knew that earlier 😂
@@imcertainlygay8680 nah that’s too expensive only to be just as slow, my 86 was more of a fresh out of highschool budget car. i’m doing things right this time and just getting a 5.0 lol
@@86kevinn it’s all about design and the type of header. Unfortunately people ‘need’ that UEL sound, so they sacrifice power for that. I also did forget to mention, but the Ace headers compared to headers with similar power differ in another important way, and that is area under the curve. Not only does Ace have the highest peak power (within half a horse with some competitors), but when you look at power throughout the curve it is higher in pretty much every rpm range, and that’s what sets it apart.
cansome one can tell me how mutch can the diff hold?
I made 460 on 91 pump gas
stock internals?!
@@anthonyparra9553 built engine, 9:0.1
Good luck with that bro
@@GAMRMNTS2 been like this for 4 years now, thanks for the sarcasm
@@krishall268 your welcome 🤗
What body kit is in thumbnail?
Cats bough
"SQRDdsgn" bodykit
So glad someone else already asked this 😁
i would be happy with 350-400hp boosted for daily use and for more i would rather engine swap it.
for above 300hp you need build block if u want it for daily
Just g16 swap it. Engine from gr yairs/corolla stock 300hp, and lighter then the boxer.
Just go for hks engine, better than swap
Need help with my brz to push more hp
at 1:00 both drivers can't drive
😭
How so?
CAI don't do shit for these cars, if anything you lose power. maximum you can get from headers and a tune is like 15hp, full exhaust and e85? low 190's if you're lucky. this is all bullshit...
agreed, i changed headers, frontpipe, only one 200cell racing cat, full flow backbox, cai, all that, +custom tune, did 215 hp (crank) on 102 octane
I wouldn’t say this is all BS, but I wouldn’t say it is accurate. Most CAI’s decrease power because they actually get hotter air over the stock intake because the stock intake is pretty much as ‘cold’ as you can get. Another missed fact in the video is the fact that CAI’s don’t do anything unless tuned. That doesn’t mean all intakes don’t produce power like that though. You can find it on the general forums, but stock tuned car vs TRD intake tuned and the car got 14 whp. As for FBO’s, CSG’s tune with the Ace header is right about 200whp, but that’s with the holy grail header rather than most UEL and other headers people get which do help but not that much. I could pretty much say Ace headers, good front pipe, any aftermarket catback, actual good intake, tune, and E85 could get you at least 220whp. That’s if it’s tuned right and has pretty good parts.
Why you so butt hurt dude😂 calm yourself down
Befok
Do I hear a boertjie accent?😏
Maybe😂
@@ChrisVSCars 😁😁😁Great vid. What I was actually looking for and Im thinking this oke sounds local. Subbed!
Thanks man😂😂. Yeah local is lekker
Befok
Nahhh
Wtf is a mawd
Mod
Just Ls swap it
Ls swaps belong in gym cars only
@@noname-pu2ye ok balsa wood 🪵
Not worth the weight. Looking for a track car.
@@tylermiavlogs5441 👍🏾
@@tylermiavlogs5441 I think you underestimate how heavy the FA20 is