I tell people that can't afford to pay a contractor to watch your videos multiple times before doing anything else. You're the best source of tile how to on UA-cam.
Not so sure about that! Been doing it for 30+ yrs and i see a few problems with his methods! Plus he is rushing into this without diagnosing whats causing the floors to be so out of level! He thinks the self leveler is going to solve the problem and it will short term while also adding lots of weight to the floor / framing after the finish floor is installed!
As far as i know you have never seen anything ive done so why you would even say that is beyond me! I know what it takes to make a floor flat before you tile it if that’s what you mean! Your comment makes no sense!
Worked in the building industry for 13 years, been out of it for ten. This would have been helpful 23 years ago. I’m going to use it today on my own house.
I agree I have never had to measure screws this far but using the laser level across the room is brilliant. He does have a few good tricks and for that I send money. I don’t agree with all he does but does anyone ever agree with all the things others do… probably not. I would never have people show up to a job with their ass hanging out because their stomach is so big but hey we are all different.
This is hard labor intensive work! I applaud you for your hard work. I really like how to “pin” the floor with the screws to understand the depth of the leverer you’ll need! Excellent!!! Thank you!!
I am hoping this goes out to the 197K of people who watched this video and the 5.2K who gave the thumbs up. We may not agree with why he is leveling but he is doing a great job of “Self Leveling a floor using leveling compound” and for that give the guy a $1 Thanks because you cannot read the small print on the bag to get the tricks he has shown nor watch any other UA-cam video to see how expertly he does level this floor. A great attention to detail perfectionist job well done and for that $1 Super Thanks is a small gesture.
Very informative and well-produced video. As a long-time DIYer, I consider three things before I get started: Time, Effort, and Cost. I estimate these and then use my 4-3-2 rule. I multiply my time by 4, the effort by 3, and the cost by 2. I'll get close to these estimates for most new DIY projects. Before I even consider doing a DIY project, I watch videos like yours to see what I'm getting myself into. A few estimates from 'professional' contractors will tell me how much money I'll save doing the project myself. I hope that my comment will be of use to other DIYers.
No not of use, the whole point of DIY is not to outbid contractors or save you money but to know you built and fixed your whole home. “Every time you fall down you get wiser”, “it’s not truly yours until you have taken it apart and reassembled it” and my favorite “Chop Wood Carry Water”
Thanks for your pleasant reply. I only consider taking on a DIY task while considering the time, effort, and cost I'll need to invest. The number one considersituration is to accept your comfort level. I only start a project if I have the skill level to complete the work. When I realize I do not have the skills and proper tools to complete my project, I seek professional assistance.@@atkgrl
Superb tutorial as always but I think I'd put the sill-seal and caulk in first and then do the screw levelers so I wasn't banging my knees into the screws doing it the way shown.
Thanks Sal for another great video - I have been in the business for 40 years and you are one of the few guys I look to for advise cause you know what your doing and I appreciate all your advise - thanks again
The tip for pinning the floor is awesome. Nothing I would of ever thought of on my own. I appreciate all of your experience that you share with us. Thanks.
Sal, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience! You are THE expert at what you do! The best DIY video I have EVER seen! You take GREAT pride in everything you do!
Make sure to check girder/carrying beam and posts supporting floor system. When a floor is sagging an inch where a wall sits on it, it's quite possible something is going on within the support system. Leveling cement and tile adds a bit of weight to an already stressed system and could make the problem worse. Or, the carpenters could have been having a bad day during framing.
As a carpenter, I very much doubt they started with sub floor so bad (out of level), and believe your 1st hunch that floor has dropped and needs to be fixed first as putting this much floor compound is ridiculous.
@@chrisrob7276 nothing is ridiculous when it comes to tract housing! Ive seen plenty of houses that have settled that much and others where the carpenters sucked so bad that thats the way it was framed! Dont get all butt hurt just because he called out your trade! How do you know without looking at it what caused it? Point is it IS out that much and something caused it whether bad carpentry to start with or settling! Prob a combination of the 2 as an inch is a lot out to have left it that way originally! Another reason he should have put lath down before he levelled it as it would add a lot of strength! It would add cost but well worth that cost in my opinion! Too late now! Hopefully it wont sound like walking on crackers after a few months!
@@StonemanRocks I'm not B hurt, just stating a fact that NO QUALIFIED Carpenter would do this. Yes, it's obvious it is out of wack, and my guess it's been caused by possible water leak and ground movement. The main issue tho is my disagreement with the utterly Ridiculous (hack job) solution to flood the floor with massive amount of filler without correcting the issue of unlevel floor. If it has already moved this much, there is something terribly wrong with subfloor and it will only get worse if not fixed and therefore all the tiling on top will also just crack and break in no time
@@chrisrob7276 i misunderstood your text! I agree 100%! Thats going to add a lot of weight to that floor as well! Tile + setting mat. and grout + self leveler! Could be looking at major problems in the future! Pay your money and take your chance I guess! I wouldnt until i fixed the problem first! Apologies for misunderstanding your explanation!
@@chrisrob7276 I disagree with you 100%. Qualified carpenters are like any other group of people: a few winners and a whole lot of losers. Plenty of qualified are crooked and greedy and cut corners for a bigger pay day. Maybe you wouldn't perform shoddy work, but plenty do. I know Jesus was a carpenter, but that doesn't make all carpenters Saints. Accept that you are a diamond in the rough (maybe... Dunning-Kruger could be in effect here) and move on. I work with dozens of doctors every day. They ALL have PhDs. Every single one. They're all "qualified", but they are like any other group of people: a few winners and whole lot of losers.
Men make money, they fix stuff, they build stuff they have created the world to make it safe for women to walk to a store and get food for their offspring at school learning.
Good video of how it is done right. Having never poured SLC on a wooden floor I feel confident enough to have a go now. That foam around the perimeter is a good trick too.
Very helpful video! I love the suggestion for putting in screws to mark the necessary depth and then paint the heads white! Also, your solution to covering the HVAC vents was great!
Finally Sal shows how self leveling really dose not self level unless you know your elevation and depths! My first experience with these products I started with a hump and ended with a hump in the floor. All because I followed the directions on the bag. They never mentioned to established a control. I did a job on second floor of a home and dammed everything off but the leveler found a path and made it to the kitchen, kitchen cabinets, stove and basement. Be careful! I have used roof nails in the past painted orange set with a level. Concrete floors I stretch string lines. The drill and laser excellent idea. I prefer ridged 1/4" foam than sill seal. The gauge rake is a joke! If subflooring is not tongue and groove you need to address the joints with caulking. A yard rake can help as well for moving product. Thank you Sal!
Ya, people think you just pour that stuff on and it's magic. There's still a little work involved. I just use spray foam, like for insulation, go filling in joint cracks and perimeter.
That looks like such hard work, let alone filming as you go. THANK YOU! Even if I can't do it myself, I can see what I'm paying for, and that means a lot too. I'm here because it looks like I have asbestos tile squares, over concrete, under the carpet that was pulled up. This is throughout the house, and my contractor wants to pull it all up, to lay the vinyl plank that we bought. The VCT tile is in decent shape, and adhering really well (minus some air bubbles and some ever so slightly lifted corners) despite the fact that it's been there since 1956. I want to encapsulate it, as it would cost a fortune (I assume) to pry off that hazardous material. The process you are showing may not be the solution for me, but it's fascinating, nonetheless. Maybe something similar would work for our situation. I salute you for amazing work, and sharing this with all of us.
Don’t do it! Someone will tell someone else then you will have a HAZWASTE Nightmare! going on and the city will close you down because someone will tell. Just cover it up, which is why they make ⅛ paneling sheets tack it down and put your laminate over the top of that. If you start on those tiles then you will have to get some glue remover and even then you will be buying the 4x8 4x12 sheets to cover it up before your padding goes down under your laminate.
It's a $10,000/day federal fine for disturbing asbestos without the proper license. Plus, left undisturbed, asbestos is a great material. There's a reason asbestos roofing shingles are still around today. Unless the asbestos is failing poor causing a problem worthy of such an expense, it would be wise to keep it in place even if money were no issue
Think in terms of placing not leveling it he is getting it close to the pins anticipating the leveling inherent to the product. This process does take some experience and it does not come out perfect.
I’m in the middle of doing a Steam Shower job and I still love coming home to see your latest postings! Don’t tell my clients hey Sal? As always, great job and great Video 👍
Fantastic job Sal. Ive done so much of this but sadly theres times you just cant achieve what the customer is hoping for especially when transitioning next to those hardwood rooms. You can be creating a "new level spot" to a out of wack slope transition. I always may sure I allow for manipulation of tile by slacking off of the self leveler in these areas. I seen at a couple of your doorways the leveler was almost the same height without tile. I know there is nothing you can do but man those will be huge height transitions. Thanks for all your great content Sal. All the best from Western Canada.
Dont comment much but just wanted to say, ive seen a lot of diy videos, but this is one you should likely not tackle if youre not 100000% confident! Hire a pro in that case! Thanks for sharing
Thanks Sal, we're using shims glued with hot glue instead of screws. Pinning a floor with screws looks like to be faster way of establishing reference elevations 👍
Dude, I've never seen anyone care so much about doing their job the right way! I'd hire you and pay you 1.5 x your asking price 😂. This was literally perfection.
I'm not convinced with that long level on the floor trick... (possible deceptive camera angle shot). Let's give it the real test. Shine a light on the one side of the level and get the camera down on the opposite side to check to see if there is any light coming through under the level! Alright, that may be demanding too much. How about this... if you can slide rice paper between the floor and level, anywhere, it will be declared a terrible job and the mocking will commence! ;D Great job Sal! You are a true contractor, when you forget to pick up a necessary item for the job, you find a substitute onsite to get the job done!
Besides how massively educational this is, watching you quietly smooth the floor for so long is SOOOOO soothing. I might save this video for meditation/therapy purposes.
You did a great job!...I've been a remodeler for over 30 years, in the philly area, I've only done floor leveling, maybe, ten times...It's an expensive process to make something flatter or less out of level...That area you did, I'd charge 2700.00... Most people say; "I'll just live with it"...People have gotten too persnickety over the last few decades...It's a floor, shut up and walk on it...:)...Good health and happiness to you and yours...
Is a perfectly level floor necessary for vinyl plank? Its my first time and have a hump right in the middle of the kitchen floor that would take a huge amount of leveler to make flat
Sal, first off, thank you for your videos. They’ve been a huge huge help. My only question is, how many bags of self leveler were being mixed in that mixing drum at a time?
Paid a guy to do ours years back and he seemed to know what he was going to do. Make comments on putting pins across to find the level etc. When the day came he slapped it on and didn’t properly seal the gaps. He didn’t even know which bit was the high spot. The finished result was terrible and remains a frustration to me to this day. Once it’s done it’s impossible to remove without massive destruction and damage. Wish I had known what a good job should look like at the time.
Pouring self leveler is not an easy thing to do and get it right, it is a fast moving process, but at the same time it needs to be done carefully to get it done right.
I'm leveling a basement tomorrow. Instead of screws, I'm going to make islands on a 2' x 2' grid using a quick setting patch underlayment. Then I'll use them as a reference during the pour.
Use a roller bro holy moly! Much more effective I also like the idea of the scews. In my head it seems like it would help with the strength as it wraps around the screws. So i even hit the bottom of them with primer which idk if thats working cause the surface isn’t porous really? Just do it anyway lol. I learned that trick with the screws though from another channel. Glad I’ve found all these im in the Chicago local for tile and I’ve been excelling very fast and already have a stable shop where I’m usually only off for a month total per year. Thanks Sal!
I love how much of a perfectionist you are in all your tiling, even the masking tape and laser tip was amazing. What I am surprised about is the lack of using a spiked roller. Why is this?
@@SalDiBlasi Yup, found this out the hard way and my self level had a massive sag in the middle of the floor where I'd last used the spike roller. It was laid 2mm to 8mm
Man! What a Pro! Wish you would’ve said GD once so I could see what can go wrong when I attempt it. I guess I can do a second coat in spots I screw up on. Also I didn’t notice you calk the cracks where plywood buts together. I was thinking the leveler would sink into cracks and have low spots. That’s IF there’s a slight open spot in the wood. Thanks for such a detailed installation!
Hopefully a thorough analysis of the subfloor and joists was done. For that floor to be that out of level I'd be immediately suspecting some problem below that area like rot or foundation decay. Would be crazy to go through all that labor and expense to install to a floor that's just going to continue to fail.
This is great stuff!! The method you use to pin the floor and the tape on the drill trick is genius! What kind of caulk are you using to seal up the foam? Or does it even matter what kind? Loving this content!🙌🏻
Super video. So why not vibrate the leveller like with concrete to get the material to flow level...? Put an off balance motor (drill with something sideways in the chuck) onto your spreader handle so it vibrates?
really important you watch out for different self-leveling compounds. most of these youtube videos won't tell you they vary in application thickness and viscosity. I messed up because I was trying to self-leveling a thinner application between 1/16 and 1/8th. just be careful what product you buy. some self-leveling compounds are easier to spread and smooth out at thinner applications, and some are REALLY difficult. I bought ardex v 1000 and it was absolute HELL to spread. silka 125 was easier. novaplan plus seems to be the easiest to spread, it's much more viscous and fluid like. a lot of this depends on the compound you choose, so choose wisely.
Glad I stumbled upon this video. The foam and caulk is a great idea and will be using that on my 8x3 half bathroom I'm currently remodeling. The pin method wouldn't work on concrete. How would you go about that scenario?
It a actually does work on concrete also. I masonry drill all the holes first then knock in wall plugs . Doesn’t take long and makes it easy to level any floor
I did this today, worked well, but the hardest part about using this method is making sure the drill is plum, if it is not then you’ll either be over the line or under the line
Sal can't say enough great things about all you do. Another perfect video demonstration for your already incredible channel. Hope your week has been great and not tooo stressful
I add a little cap of blue tape to the top of my screws. It gives a better visual on the screw top. I thought I invented this screw head method. never saw it until now!
Thank you Sal! I noticed that you were going to need to pour another section of self-leveler by the front door. What are your thoughts or strategies about pouring self-leveler in sections? Do the two sections just butt up next to one another? I have a basement project where I think that it will just be too big for myself and one helper to do at once. I am wondering if it can be successfully done in sections. Thank you for your time!
You can set a barrier to section off this work. It's best to do one pour with a bunch of workers, but it can be done in sections, no problem. Just remove your barrier when the first section is cured, and then pour the next section right up to it.
Perhaps the only and i mean the only improvement to Sals process is to place the foam and caulking first so as to not to have to avoid the screw heads on your knees.
I did the floors in my house. Floors suck. Leave it to pros but I'm cheap. The cost was way up. Because it was so thick. I Added wood and put in pre mix for less than half the cost of a pour. This house is a 1999. I couldn't believe these floors was so far out. They had to put down joists so unlevel and just shot the floor. Carpet done. Anyway great video. Way to explain. I was wondering how you was getting level yard by yard before it sets Because the Henry 555 sets fast. I think 12 to 15 minutes after mixing. This is alot of work, glad my wife was apart of most of it😅
Dang nice work bro. Are you limited to which flooring types you can install over that material? Hopefully the homeowner addressed the foundational water problem as well. As for the flooring wouldn’t have fell out of trueness if it weren’t for the likely roofing gutter system problems not guiding rainwater away from the foundation
Dang I wish you posted this video a few months ago. Self leveling on a 8 x 24 room wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...thanks for the info n tips sharing
Great job Sal I almost always learn something new on all your videos watching you has made me alot better at tile work and I appreciate the time you spend making these videos, Just wondering how many bags of self leveling compound did it take for a job that size. And thanks again.
Very helpful video. How much variance in a floor can you tolerate before needing to use self-leveling concrete like this? If the difference between high and low on my subfloor is only 1/8”, can I make up for that with thinset when I lay tile? (Planning fairly large tiles: 15x30.)
Sal you are an encyclopedia.. Hands down.. what ever i search in youtube with respect to remodelling and tiles, i will eventually land here.. can u pls advise the laser that you are using... appreciate if you can give me the link.
I tell people that can't afford to pay a contractor to watch your videos multiple times before doing anything else. You're the best source of tile how to on UA-cam.
I do the same thing. 1/2 of them hire me 10% of those hire me to do it over from the cheaper guy.
Not so sure about that! Been doing it for 30+ yrs and i see a few problems with his methods! Plus he is rushing into this without diagnosing whats causing the floors to be so out of level! He thinks the self leveler is going to solve the problem and it will short term while also adding lots of weight to the floor / framing after the finish floor is installed!
@@StonemanRocks you been doing it wrong then. Wood framing is never as flat as a tile floor. Never. Not even concrete buildings have floors as flat.
@@dekonfrost7 doing what wrong?
As far as i know you have never seen anything ive done so why you would even say that is beyond me! I know what it takes to make a floor flat before you tile it if that’s what you mean! Your comment makes no sense!
So many DIYers avoid this first step and it costs them more in the long run. Great video mate.
Thanks 👍
Worked in the building industry for 13 years, been out of it for ten. This would have been helpful 23 years ago. I’m going to use it today on my own house.
Thanks, glad it helped
Yes great job but find out why your own home is sagging so much on a main floor that you would have to use leveling compound FIRST. Fix those beams!
I love the tape on the drill trick. I'm going to steal that and act like I made it up myself.
Me too 😆
😊👍
Just don’t block the vent holes so the drill doesn’t overheat
Plus one
A true tradesmen
That idea of taping your drill with level lines is genius! Definitely using this method. Thank you
Thanks, glad it helped
I agree I have never had to measure screws this far but using the laser level across the room is brilliant. He does have a few good tricks and for that I send money. I don’t agree with all he does but does anyone ever agree with all the things others do… probably not. I would never have people show up to a job with their ass hanging out because their stomach is so big but hey we are all different.
This was the most comprehensive video on leveling a floor! Thank you for once again giving us premium content, definitely learned a lot!!
Glad it was helpful!
@@SalDiBlasi do you sand after?
This is hard labor intensive work! I applaud you for your hard work. I really like how to “pin” the floor with the screws to understand the depth of the leverer you’ll need! Excellent!!! Thank you!!
This is the best video on the subject of leveling a floor on UA-cam. Also very complex project, so you can feel comfortable doing a much smaller job.
Pure genius the tape method ,I’ve struggled with levelling in the past myself ,Thanks for the knowledge .
I am hoping this goes out to the 197K of people who watched this video and the 5.2K who gave the thumbs up. We may not agree with why he is leveling but he is doing a great job of “Self Leveling a floor using leveling compound” and for that give the guy a $1 Thanks because you cannot read the small print on the bag to get the tricks he has shown nor watch any other UA-cam video to see how expertly he does level this floor. A great attention to detail perfectionist job well done and for that $1 Super Thanks is a small gesture.
Very informative and well-produced video. As a long-time DIYer, I consider three things before I get started: Time, Effort, and Cost. I estimate these and then use my 4-3-2 rule. I multiply my time by 4, the effort by 3, and the cost by 2. I'll get close to these estimates for most new DIY projects. Before I even consider doing a DIY project, I watch videos like yours to see what I'm getting myself into. A few estimates from 'professional' contractors will tell me how much money I'll save doing the project myself. I hope that my comment will be of use to other DIYers.
No not of use, the whole point of DIY is not to outbid contractors or save you money but to know you built and fixed your whole home. “Every time you fall down you get wiser”, “it’s not truly yours until you have taken it apart and reassembled it” and my favorite “Chop Wood Carry Water”
Thanks for your pleasant reply. I only consider taking on a DIY task while considering the time, effort, and cost I'll need to invest. The number one considersituration is to accept your comfort level. I only start a project if I have the skill level to complete the work. When I realize I do not have the skills and proper tools to complete my project, I seek professional assistance.@@atkgrl
Best self levelling video I've seen on YT yet. Wish this had of been available before I did mine.
Thanks again for another great tip.
I don’t think “self leveling” is exactly the best name, it’s work.
for sure. this guy has some energy i never had
Self leveling, as in "I leveled it myself!"
Superb tutorial as always but I think I'd put the sill-seal and caulk in first and then do the screw levelers so I wasn't banging my knees into the screws doing it the way shown.
Thanks Sal for another great video - I have been in the business for 40 years and you are one of the few guys I look to for advise cause you know what your doing and I appreciate all your advise - thanks again
I appreciate that!
The tip for pinning the floor is awesome. Nothing I would of ever thought of on my own. I appreciate all of your experience that you share with us. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Sal, Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience! You are THE expert at what you do! The best DIY video I have EVER seen! You take GREAT pride in everything you do!
I feel like it was so obvious. Excellent teaching style.
Glad you think so!
Make sure to check girder/carrying beam and posts supporting floor system. When a floor is sagging an inch where a wall sits on it, it's quite possible something is going on within the support system. Leveling cement and tile adds a bit of weight to an already stressed system and could make the problem worse. Or, the carpenters could have been having a bad day during framing.
As a carpenter, I very much doubt they started with sub floor so bad (out of level), and believe your 1st hunch that floor has dropped and needs to be fixed first as putting this much floor compound is ridiculous.
@@chrisrob7276 nothing is ridiculous when it comes to tract housing! Ive seen plenty of houses that have settled that much and others where the carpenters sucked so bad that thats the way it was framed! Dont get all butt hurt just because he called out your trade! How do you know without looking at it what caused it? Point is it IS out that much and something caused it whether bad carpentry to start with or settling! Prob a combination of the 2 as an inch is a lot out to have left it that way originally! Another reason he should have put lath down before he levelled it as it would add a lot of strength! It would add cost but well worth that cost in my opinion! Too late now! Hopefully it wont sound like walking on crackers after a few months!
@@StonemanRocks I'm not B hurt, just stating a fact that NO QUALIFIED Carpenter would do this. Yes, it's obvious it is out of wack, and my guess it's been caused by possible water leak and ground movement. The main issue tho is my disagreement with the utterly Ridiculous (hack job) solution to flood the floor with massive amount of filler without correcting the issue of unlevel floor. If it has already moved this much, there is something terribly wrong with subfloor and it will only get worse if not fixed and therefore all the tiling on top will also just crack and break in no time
@@chrisrob7276 i misunderstood your text! I agree 100%! Thats going to add a lot of weight to that floor as well! Tile + setting mat. and grout + self leveler! Could be looking at major problems in the future! Pay your money and take your chance I guess! I wouldnt until i fixed the problem first! Apologies for misunderstanding your explanation!
@@chrisrob7276 I disagree with you 100%. Qualified carpenters are like any other group of people: a few winners and a whole lot of losers.
Plenty of qualified are crooked and greedy and cut corners for a bigger pay day.
Maybe you wouldn't perform shoddy work, but plenty do. I know Jesus was a carpenter, but that doesn't make all carpenters Saints.
Accept that you are a diamond in the rough (maybe... Dunning-Kruger could be in effect here) and move on.
I work with dozens of doctors every day. They ALL have PhDs. Every single one. They're all "qualified", but they are like any other group of people: a few winners and whole lot of losers.
You have to respect someone who takes craftsmanship seriously. The result speaks for itself. Bravo sir! 👌👏
Thank you so much 😀
Men make money, they fix stuff, they build stuff they have created the world to make it safe for women to walk to a store and get food for their offspring at school learning.
Good video of how it is done right. Having never poured SLC on a wooden floor I feel confident enough to have a go now. That foam around the perimeter is a good trick too.
I can tell you take alot of pride in your work. Thanks for sharing your process!
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic, a fairly complex job simplified step by step. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us all.
Glad it was helpful!
Not to mention the amount of work done to tighten the floor/plywood up. Labor intensive. Good job.
Thanks, this was very helpful. Wish of have known all of this 15 years ago when i hired a local "handyman" 🙄 to show me how to do it.
Thank you for an excellent video, I learned alot. If I have any success in my project it will be because of this video.
Very helpful video! I love the suggestion for putting in screws to mark the necessary depth and then paint the heads white! Also, your solution to covering the HVAC vents was great!
Finally Sal shows how self leveling really dose not self level unless you know your elevation and depths! My first experience with these products I started with a hump and ended with a hump in the floor. All because I followed the directions on the bag. They never mentioned to established a control. I did a job on second floor of a home and dammed everything off but the leveler found a path and made it to the kitchen, kitchen cabinets, stove and basement. Be careful!
I have used roof nails in the past painted orange set with a level. Concrete floors I stretch string lines.
The drill and laser excellent idea.
I prefer ridged 1/4" foam than sill seal.
The gauge rake is a joke!
If subflooring is not tongue and groove you need to address the joints with caulking.
A yard rake can help as well for moving product.
Thank you Sal!
Ya, people think you just pour that stuff on and it's magic. There's still a little work involved.
I just use spray foam, like for insulation, go filling in joint cracks and perimeter.
I love tips like this! I’m getting ready to self level my converted garage and am definitely going to use this trick.
Garage floors should stay slanted...
Might want to get the book “The Visual Handbook of Building and Remodeling”. Garage floors are supposed to be slanted it’s a safety factor.
That looks like such hard work, let alone filming as you go. THANK YOU! Even if I can't do it myself, I can see what I'm paying for, and that means a lot too. I'm here because it looks like I have asbestos tile squares, over concrete, under the carpet that was pulled up. This is throughout the house, and my contractor wants to pull it all up, to lay the vinyl plank that we bought. The VCT tile is in decent shape, and adhering really well (minus some air bubbles and some ever so slightly lifted corners) despite the fact that it's been there since 1956. I want to encapsulate it, as it would cost a fortune (I assume) to pry off that hazardous material.
The process you are showing may not be the solution for me, but it's fascinating, nonetheless. Maybe something similar would work for our situation.
I salute you for amazing work, and sharing this with all of us.
Don’t do it! Someone will tell someone else then you will have a HAZWASTE Nightmare! going on and the city will close you down because someone will tell. Just cover it up, which is why they make ⅛ paneling sheets tack it down and put your laminate over the top of that. If you start on those tiles then you will have to get some glue remover and even then you will be buying the 4x8 4x12 sheets to cover it up before your padding goes down under your laminate.
It's a $10,000/day federal fine for disturbing asbestos without the proper license. Plus, left undisturbed, asbestos is a great material. There's a reason asbestos roofing shingles are still around today.
Unless the asbestos is failing poor causing a problem worthy of such an expense, it would be wise to keep it in place even if money were no issue
Thks for your obviously skilled instructions! Have a 30ftx30ft to start leveling process.
I guess it's called "self leveling" because you have to do it yourself! Lol
Good job Sal.
I've learned a lot from you.
You are greatly appreciated 👍
Think in terms of placing not leveling it he is getting it close to the pins anticipating the leveling inherent to the product. This process does take some experience and it does not come out perfect.
So true!
Great demo, you have to be a master to make it look easy to do.
The drill and tape trick, simple and brilliant!
Good work. Thanks 👍
😊👍
I’m in the middle of doing a Steam Shower job and I still love coming home to see your latest postings!
Don’t tell my clients hey Sal?
As always,
great job and great Video 👍
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Fantastic job Sal. Ive done so much of this but sadly theres times you just cant achieve what the customer is hoping for especially when transitioning next to those hardwood rooms. You can be creating a "new level spot" to a out of wack slope transition. I always may sure I allow for manipulation of tile by slacking off of the self leveler in these areas. I seen at a couple of your doorways the leveler was almost the same height without tile. I know there is nothing you can do but man those will be huge height transitions. Thanks for all your great content Sal. All the best from Western Canada.
Correct, with tile that big floor has to be flat. Customer was made aware of the problem and accepted that there will be transitions at the doors.
Dont comment much but just wanted to say, ive seen a lot of diy videos, but this is one you should likely not tackle if youre not 100000% confident! Hire a pro in that case! Thanks for sharing
Goes without say, if in doubt, hire someone that knows how to do it.
I have been doing flooring for nearly 40 years and never seen this method for PINNING a floor. Great advice for someone that has leveled prior.
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You must be incompetent then 🤣 because everyone does it on youtube
The only thing I might have done different is place the foam for the expansion joints before pinning the floor. Great video!
Was actually going to do that, but did not have the foam with me at first.
Thanks Sal, we're using shims glued with hot glue instead of screws. Pinning a floor with screws looks like to be faster way of establishing reference elevations 👍
Thanks, glad it helped
How did you measure the shims and how much glue and do you pull the glued shims up once the compound starts spreading?
Love your crafsmanship and thanks for your tips
Glad you like them!
This man is a wizard pay homage
Dude, I've never seen anyone care so much about doing their job the right way! I'd hire you and pay you 1.5 x your asking price 😂. This was literally perfection.
This is an excellent video, I love the tape trick! Thank you for your generosity providing this info.
You are so welcome!
Awesome work. Was planning to do this. I can’t wait to duplicate this.
I'm not convinced with that long level on the floor trick... (possible deceptive camera angle shot). Let's give it the real test. Shine a light on the one side of the level and get the camera down on the opposite side to check to see if there is any light coming through under the level! Alright, that may be demanding too much. How about this... if you can slide rice paper between the floor and level, anywhere, it will be declared a terrible job and the mocking will commence! ;D
Great job Sal! You are a true contractor, when you forget to pick up a necessary item for the job, you find a substitute onsite to get the job done!
Particularly informative video Sal, many thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Sal, your video is such great quality and better than similar self leveling video. Well done!
You have a lot more working time than the stuff I used, but I was only doing a small area about the size of refrigerator and dishwasher footprint.
Crazy, but this video was very relaxing.
Good content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Besides how massively educational this is, watching you quietly smooth the floor for so long is SOOOOO soothing. I might save this video for meditation/therapy purposes.
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You did a great job!...I've been a remodeler for over 30 years, in the philly area, I've only done floor leveling, maybe, ten times...It's an expensive process to make something flatter or less out of level...That area you did, I'd charge 2700.00... Most people say; "I'll just live with it"...People have gotten too persnickety over the last few decades...It's a floor, shut up and walk on it...:)...Good health and happiness to you and yours...
Thanks for watching my video.
Is a perfectly level floor necessary for vinyl plank? Its my first time and have a hump right in the middle of the kitchen floor that would take a huge amount of leveler to make flat
@@redrustyhill2 You'll have to cut out the hump...It's the only choice or FAI (fly as is)
Sal, you are the man!!!
Sal, first off, thank you for your videos. They’ve been a huge huge help. My only question is, how many bags of self leveler were being mixed in that mixing drum at a time?
Man I truly appreciate all your videos! Thank you! 🙏🏽
Glad you like them!
Hi..Sal...i love you're work..It was very therapeutic watching you do all the work from the couch. Great job 👍
Glad you enjoy it!
Paid a guy to do ours years back and he seemed to know what he was going to do. Make comments on putting pins across to find the level etc. When the day came he slapped it on and didn’t properly seal the gaps. He didn’t even know which bit was the high spot. The finished result was terrible and remains a frustration to me to this day. Once it’s done it’s impossible to remove without massive destruction and damage. Wish I had known what a good job should look like at the time.
Pouring self leveler is not an easy thing to do and get it right, it is a fast moving process, but at the same time it needs to be done carefully to get it done right.
I'm leveling a basement tomorrow. Instead of screws, I'm going to make islands on a 2' x 2' grid using a quick setting patch underlayment. Then I'll use them as a reference during the pour.
pics please
I wonder why its important to pour into the wet. Great video!
Great instructional video. What was the other leveling rake for?
Use a roller bro holy moly! Much more effective
I also like the idea of the scews. In my head it seems like it would help with the strength as it wraps around the screws. So i even hit the bottom of them with primer which idk if thats working cause the surface isn’t porous really?
Just do it anyway lol. I learned that trick with the screws though from another channel. Glad I’ve found all these im in the Chicago local for tile and I’ve been excelling very fast and already have a stable shop where I’m usually only off for a month total per year.
Thanks Sal!
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I love how much of a perfectionist you are in all your tiling, even the masking tape and laser tip was amazing. What I am surprised about is the lack of using a spiked roller. Why is this?
Don't need it. Spike roller does not work well with a thicker pour.
@@SalDiBlasi Yup, found this out the hard way and my self level had a massive sag in the middle of the floor where I'd last used the spike roller. It was laid 2mm to 8mm
Man! What a Pro! Wish you would’ve said GD once so I could see what can go wrong when I attempt it. I guess I can do a second coat in spots I screw up on. Also I didn’t notice you calk the cracks where plywood buts together. I was thinking the leveler would sink into cracks and have low spots. That’s IF there’s a slight open spot in the wood.
Thanks for such a detailed installation!
Thanks for watching my video.
Hopefully a thorough analysis of the subfloor and joists was done. For that floor to be that out of level I'd be immediately suspecting some problem below that area like rot or foundation decay. Would be crazy to go through all that labor and expense to install to a floor that's just going to continue to fail.
You could use a roller with a long hold. Helps a lot, safe your back too ;)
You're way more patient than I am.
Finally a proper video on this ,super ,thank you
Glad you liked it
Great video. That's an A+ job. I hope you charge enough for that...
This is great stuff!! The method you use to pin the floor and the tape on the drill trick is genius! What kind of caulk are you using to seal up the foam? Or does it even matter what kind? Loving this content!🙌🏻
Doesn't matter
Pretty new looking Nike's to be working in... don't be getting those dirty! Great vid, thanks.
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Super video. So why not vibrate the leveller like with concrete to get the material to flow level...? Put an off balance motor (drill with something sideways in the chuck) onto your spreader handle so it vibrates?
Fantastic Sal. Great content
Glad you enjoyed it!
really important you watch out for different self-leveling compounds. most of these youtube videos won't tell you they vary in application thickness and viscosity. I messed up because I was trying to self-leveling a thinner application between 1/16 and 1/8th.
just be careful what product you buy. some self-leveling compounds are easier to spread and smooth out at thinner applications, and some are REALLY difficult. I bought ardex v 1000 and it was absolute HELL to spread. silka 125 was easier. novaplan plus seems to be the easiest to spread, it's much more viscous and fluid like. a lot of this depends on the compound you choose, so choose wisely.
Glad I stumbled upon this video. The foam and caulk is a great idea and will be using that on my 8x3 half bathroom I'm currently remodeling. The pin method wouldn't work on concrete. How would you go about that scenario?
It a actually does work on concrete also. I masonry drill all the holes first then knock in wall plugs . Doesn’t take long and makes it easy to level any floor
I did this today, worked well, but the hardest part about using this method is making sure the drill is plum, if it is not then you’ll either be over the line or under the line
Great video.... thanks from Canada
I’m going to attempt this project tomorrow.
Great share Sal, thanks.
Use colored screws so you don't kneel on them by mistake 😅
Happy new year,
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Sal can't say enough great things about all you do. Another perfect video demonstration for your already incredible channel. Hope your week has been great and not tooo stressful
Wow, thank you!
I add a little cap of blue tape to the top of my screws. It gives a better visual on the screw top. I thought I invented this screw head method. never saw it until now!
Then you might not know these are available for concrete floors amzn.to/3kndYLo
Thank you Sal! I noticed that you were going to need to pour another section of self-leveler by the front door. What are your thoughts or strategies about pouring self-leveler in sections? Do the two sections just butt up next to one another? I have a basement project where I think that it will just be too big for myself and one helper to do at once. I am wondering if it can be successfully done in sections. Thank you for your time!
You can set a barrier to section off this work. It's best to do one pour with a bunch of workers, but it can be done in sections, no problem. Just remove your barrier when the first section is cured, and then pour the next section right up to it.
Perhaps the only and i mean the only improvement to Sals process is to place the foam and caulking first so as to not to have to avoid the screw heads on your knees.
I did the floors in my house. Floors suck. Leave it to pros but I'm cheap. The cost was way up. Because it was so thick. I Added wood and put in pre mix for less than half the cost of a pour. This house is a 1999. I couldn't believe these floors was so far out. They had to put down joists so unlevel and just shot the floor. Carpet done. Anyway great video. Way to explain. I was wondering how you was getting level yard by yard before it sets Because the Henry 555 sets fast. I think 12 to 15 minutes after mixing. This is alot of work, glad my wife was apart of most of it😅
Doing a great job. Good info. But there is a huge difference in a flat floor and level
Level is desired, flat is required.
What I learned from this video is to hire Sal to do this job. I got so tired watching this video I had to take a nap!
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I love that we call this self leveling. You know what else is self leveling? Water 😂
door and window spray foam. no staples or caulk. works dam good !
Dang nice work bro. Are you limited to which flooring types you can install over that material? Hopefully the homeowner addressed the foundational water problem as well. As for the flooring wouldn’t have fell out of trueness if it weren’t for the likely roofing gutter system problems not guiding rainwater away from the foundation
Dang I wish you posted this video a few months ago. Self leveling on a 8 x 24 room wasn't as easy as I thought it would be...thanks for the info n tips sharing
Thanks for watching my video.
Nice job, Sal.
Thank you kindly
For anyone wondering, the smoother Sal is using is the Kraft GG603 (ID'd from video!)
That’s awesome! Thanks for the lesson.
You can be "stupid" and be president of US, but you can not be stupid and do a great Tile installation ! Thank's Sal.
Thanks for watching my video.
Great job Sal I almost always learn something new on all your videos watching you has made me alot better at tile work and I appreciate the time you spend making these videos,
Just wondering how many bags of self leveling compound did it take for a job that size. And thanks again.
25
@@SalDiBlasi just wondering how much sq foot in entire floor did that 25 bags do and was it 2 days work for 2 men ?
@@AlanMcCarthyguitar about 300sq.ft. less than one day to prep just me, 1/2 day to prime and pour two guys
@@SalDiBlasi thanks Sal I appreciate you.
@@SalDiBlasi wow 25 bags for 300 sq feet was a lot !
Thanks for your time and help. Quick question did u use a spiked roller for bubbles?
Very helpful video. How much variance in a floor can you tolerate before needing to use self-leveling concrete like this? If the difference between high and low on my subfloor is only 1/8”, can I make up for that with thinset when I lay tile? (Planning fairly large tiles: 15x30.)
TCNA says, no more than 1/8 in 10 feet or 1/16 in 24inches for large format tile. So if the floor truly is only 1/8 out, you should be ok
Spray foam works really well to for daming the self leveler. A little more clean up the next day but less work in the long run
Thanks for watching my video.
@@SalDiBlasi hey thanks for putting them up i get alot of great information from them and appreciate the time you take to put them up for us
Sal you are an encyclopedia.. Hands down.. what ever i search in youtube with respect to remodelling and tiles, i will eventually land here.. can u pls advise the laser that you are using... appreciate if you can give me the link.
Love your videos brother thanks for sharing knowledge
Excellent video. Why not prime before you pin so you can use a roller?
Didn't have the primer with me.
Not the best technique I’ve seen to prime a floor but an informative video nonetheless.
ha ha did the trick. i suppose a 3/4 18or 24 inch roller would of been better. but got the job done
I use a sponge mostly to apply primer, hope the occupants were not in the house, hate it when they start telling u where they need to walk