Riveting, Respect (huge Smile). I have been restoring my 1955 Chevy work truck since I bought it 1970. It was made before color film, so the decades of wiring repairs up in the woods are now all Black and White...Or Black and Red...Note to self, carry more than one color of wire in your toolbox, or at least ...tape Thank You!
Bart Owens here - I am a total electrical bone head with a 1957 factory 4x4 Chevrolet truck. I've pulled the instrument cluster out as I attempt to repair the speedometer . You have inspired me to clean up the mass of wires . Will be watching your video here more than a few times. Your approach is inspiring and seemingly easy to follow. Thanks... great stuff.
You have helped immensely, I am upgrading my 55' 3800 to electric temp gauge, in the process I found the dash harness had been,,,, well janked is to mild a word, but I got stuck at the ammeter and you helped with that so huge thanks.
I see this video is 2 yrs old but I just found it! Excellent video!! The tip about using those pop rivets was way cool! I currently have a 1959 Chevy Apache that I am replacing the cluster with one from classic chevy. Our original plexiglass was destroyed and several gauges were ruined and the speedometer is very gummed up. So my Queen requested a rebuilt one. Since the prices have come down a bit I said why not? I do need to totally rewire it because the PO installed a set of aftermarket gauges and used the wiring for those. I want to replace the old amp meter with a higher rating due to the truck now having a 63A one wire alternator. I have seen where others have taken a volt meter apart and trimmed down the face to fit in the window. I want to replace the amp meter with a 60-0-60 gauge to stay with original as possible. The PO also installed a 2 in fuel gauge in the dash above the headlight sw. Since a hole was cut there I want to put a Volt meter there to take up the space. Anyway what are your thoughts? Thanks again!
Thanks for all the great tips, I do not have that dash cluster but the info will be useful. I have a 1950 Chevy Sedan Delivery that was abused by past owners, they spliced wires together tied them in a knot and taped with Duct Tape..........if I could I would issue a warrant for their arrest.
I just got s new dash gauge cluster $600.00. Now I know why my fuel gauge hasn't been working. The ignition wire hasn't been connected. I'll have to watch video a few times to get it right. Great solder and crimping tips. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to make great informative videos, I'm currently working on a 1959 Chevy Apache and your video will definitely help me, I have a question did you use all the same gauge wire and if so what gauge did you use ? Thanks again !
Fantastic, thank you for taking the time. Your editing and detailed close-up camera work is also awesome. Question: did you have to do anything with 12V vs 6V?
I did not... my truck was already 12V from the factory. however I did convert my 54 belair to 12V. as I recall I only had to convert the gauges that had power, which was just the fuel gauge (not running the amp gauge on that one either). I used one of those resisters you can pick up from LMC or carandtruckshop.com
Good job and good video. I'll try adding ignition powered 12v to my fuel gauge before I scrap my old fuel gauge altogether. The wire to the sending unit is good and I thought the other wire was a ground. So back to work I go ;)
@@GODSPEEDGarage I can read how much fuel I have with my multimeter, looking towards the sending unit in the tank, by removing the sending unit wire from the gauge cluster. And when I get everything connected and do like a bench test with the new fuel gauge, it acts like the original gauge that's always been in there. So In your video, you pointed out where the ground connection to the cluster is located towards the top there on the backside, so I will investigate that. Everything seems fine and tests out okay, but the fuel gauge still doesn't tell me how much gas I have in the tank. I'll figure it out. It's taking awhile. Your videos are very helpful, thank you
Great job. For me, the way you edited this was right to the point, clear, and explored options. Thank you for spending the time to help me.🙏
Riveting, Respect (huge Smile). I have been restoring my 1955 Chevy work truck since I bought it 1970. It was made before color film, so the decades of wiring repairs up in the woods are now all Black and White...Or Black and Red...Note to self, carry more than one color of wire in your toolbox, or at least ...tape Thank You!
Great video, the copper rivet is a great thinking out of the box fix.
Thanks 👍
Bart Owens here - I am a total electrical bone head with a 1957 factory 4x4 Chevrolet truck. I've pulled the instrument cluster out as I attempt to repair the speedometer . You have inspired me to clean up the mass of wires . Will be watching your video here more than a few times. Your approach is inspiring and seemingly easy to follow. Thanks... great stuff.
nice! thanks for watching! I hope it helps
Just got a 1958 Chevy Apache project, wiring is a mess, thanks for the tips and walk through
You have helped immensely, I am upgrading my 55' 3800 to electric temp gauge, in the process I found the dash harness had been,,,, well janked is to mild a word, but I got stuck at the ammeter and you helped with that so huge thanks.
So much good information in 12 minutes. Thank you.
Very nice! Thanks bro! Really helps with my 59 Apache Truck cluster.
I see this video is 2 yrs old but I just found it! Excellent video!! The tip about using those pop rivets was way cool! I currently have a 1959 Chevy Apache that I am replacing the cluster with one from classic chevy. Our original plexiglass was destroyed and several gauges were ruined and the speedometer is very gummed up. So my Queen requested a rebuilt one. Since the prices have come down a bit I said why not? I do need to totally rewire it because the PO installed a set of aftermarket gauges and used the wiring for those. I want to replace the old amp meter with a higher rating due to the truck now having a 63A one wire alternator. I have seen where others have taken a volt meter apart and trimmed down the face to fit in the window. I want to replace the amp meter with a 60-0-60 gauge to stay with original as possible. The PO also installed a 2 in fuel gauge in the dash above the headlight sw. Since a hole was cut there I want to put a Volt meter there to take up the space. Anyway what are your thoughts? Thanks again!
Thanks for all the great tips, I do not have that dash cluster but the info will be useful. I have a 1950 Chevy Sedan Delivery that was abused by past owners, they spliced wires together tied them in a knot and taped with Duct Tape..........if I could I would issue a warrant for their arrest.
glad you found it useful! mine was the same way, but the culprit was the younger dumber ME!! ha!
Great vid keep them coming. Fixing to rewire a 65 C10
Thanks man. Needed this dash cluster mess explained
I just got s new dash gauge cluster $600.00. Now I know why my fuel gauge hasn't been working. The ignition wire hasn't been connected. I'll have to watch video a few times to get it right. Great solder and crimping tips. Thanks
glad it helped! thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I’m about to re wire my 57 Chevy I just got.
Thank you for this walk-through
Where you buy this harness? Need one for my 56, thanks
Thank you.
Thanks for taking the time to make great informative videos, I'm currently working on a 1959 Chevy Apache and your video will definitely help me, I have a question did you use all the same gauge wire and if so what gauge did you use ? Thanks again !
since I did not wire the Volt gauge, all the wires were the same. they were the wires that came with my Speedway wiring kit - 14 gauge
You could probably use the brass inserts used to reinforce vinyl water line instead of steel rivets
great idea! the part of the rivet I used was actually copper, not steel. THANKS FOR WATCHING and thanks for the input!
I'm a plumber so the soldering part was easy but how did you insulate the rivet from grounding?
there should be a plastic sleeve inside the socket that it all goes through
Real pro bro thanks
Fantastic, thank you for taking the time. Your editing and detailed close-up camera work is also awesome.
Question: did you have to do anything with 12V vs 6V?
I did not... my truck was already 12V from the factory. however I did convert my 54 belair to 12V. as I recall I only had to convert the gauges that had power, which was just the fuel gauge (not running the amp gauge on that one either). I used one of those resisters you can pick up from LMC or carandtruckshop.com
Good job and good video. I'll try adding ignition powered 12v to my fuel gauge before I scrap my old fuel gauge altogether. The wire to the sending unit is good and I thought the other wire was a ground. So back to work I go ;)
Well, the voltage was already there, all wiring good. Need a new gauge as originally thought. So thank you again for the great video ;)
glad you got it figured out
@@GODSPEEDGarage I can read how much fuel I have with my multimeter, looking towards the sending unit in the tank, by removing the sending unit wire from the gauge cluster. And when I get everything connected and do like a bench test with the new fuel gauge, it acts like the original gauge that's always been in there. So In your video, you pointed out where the ground connection to the cluster is located towards the top there on the backside, so I will investigate that. Everything seems fine and tests out okay, but the fuel gauge still doesn't tell me how much gas I have in the tank. I'll figure it out. It's taking awhile. Your videos are very helpful, thank you