You would have better luck if you go to the same machine shop that did the work on your engine block and Reground your heads not a tire shop . If they won’t ask them who would ?
I can’t find anyone around here that is willing to do it. The last shop I went to said their insurance company said the liability was too high and if they kept turning rotors, the rates were going to go way up to the point the shop wouldn’t have been able to make a profit. Your best bet to find someone to turn rotors would be some small shop that’s in the middle of nowhere.
I was taught 3 pass minimum. 2 fast to true it up, one slow for finishing. Of course measure for minimum thickness before the last pass. I usually cut about 8 a month, my boss charges 15 a rotor.
No you don't have to take three passes unless the rotor is really warped or grooved. Once you do your scratched cut and you turn the twin cutter all the way in if there is a solid line all the way around from the bit you can do it in one pass
sinned96 Yep, do a good fast cut (after measuring of course) then a good final cut. I use a sanding disc on the rotor after turning to put a nice non-directional finish on the rotor
Back in the 90s when I worked as a tech at a GM dealership we turned rotors on every brake job because back then rotors were expensive, unlike now. Same for rebuilding CV axles, was cheaper to replace the CV ends than buy a whole axle
I'm in Australia, and when I was doing my apprenticeship 20 years ago we machined the rotors every time on the 90's Falcons, workshop got an on car machine that was mostly running all day. but ten the newer models came out with slip on hat style rotors, and the rotors got cheaper.
The old Amoco brake and drum lathes we used to use in the Midas shop I worked for back in the early 90's had adjustable rubber wheels on stalks that we could ride on the rotor during the initial rough cut to stop the harmonics.
This is a great format for people who need the background knowledge of these issues. Seriously, "Brakes for Dummies," and other similar series. Good job in the presentation!
Fun fact, some brand new rotors are warped. I worked a Brake shop in the late 80's and would see customers complain about a pulsating pedal after a complete brake job was done that included New rotors. Take the new rotors over to the lathe and sure enough they are warped. We started routinely turning brand new rotors before installing after that. I was told this happens if the rotors are not stored laying flat in there boxes.
Wow glad somebody else understands this I tell my customers all the time you're getting rotors come over from China on the boat those brand new rotors I've have seen 10 to 12,000 out
Last time I went to have some done the place wanted $30 a rotor and wouldn’t guarantee they would be true. New ones were $40 hard to justify the hassle
Jared doing a great job of telling us how to do a great brake disc job, I know a lot of people still can't grasp the fact that discs don't last like they used to, I remember explaining to someone, that the manufacturers took Asbestos out of the pads they told me that the manufacturers must have done it to fleece the consumer.
A friend of mine had a mobile mechanic business and had a rig that would machine rotors on the vehicle, no need to take them off. Made him quite a good addition to his income.
I used to get this done when I was a poor student with an old slow car, also that was before you could get Chinese brake rotors for peanuts like you can now - but I wouldn't bother anymore when new ones are so inexpensive, and you can just drop the old ones off at a metal recycling service. The shop I used to go to had a special machine that could do it on the car.
The on-car brake lathe is industry standard now as it results in less lateral run-out ("warped rotors") and "aligns" the rotor with the vehicle's axle.
Big problem around here in western Canada is most shops don't turn rotors/drums for people anymore, parts suppliers stopped turning for customers. So was easier/faster to get replacements. My 1980 chevy Barreta, new 3rd party rotors were only $5 more than turning old ones (many years ago).
Those rubber straps to your right that look like bungie cords, those are supposed to be wrapped around the rotor to prevent that loud "singing" it made. Also that singing causes vibration and leads to very bad cuts.
That clip on silencer is basically made for the thin rotor that you showed from the Nissan Pulsar. It works but I would get the correct type of silencer for it. The spring silencer works great but they only come with four Springs. On a larger rotor it's better off to use five Springs. You don't want the silencer tight against the rotor, you want it loose so it actually dampens the vibration. If it is tight against the rotor it will vibrate with the rotor
Skimming works well with enough life left, problem is the sudden temperature change after a cut as the change in running temps are exponential for every micrometer taken off. They are more prone to warping after skimming.
my dad,s old BMW 1800 cs had from factory non-cooled front roters and drum brakes in the rear, but now it has the brakes form the BMW 3.0 csl which is cooled disc brakes front and rear.
I think nowadays ppl just replace the rotor instead of resurfacing as the cost of resurfacing outweighs the cost of the new rotor. Money economics...pure and simple
OOOh boy its good to see someone turning rotors. It used to be a common thing, there were on and off car brake lathes for just that. Even heard that on car jobs created the smoothest braking. Haven't seen either kind of lathe since i was in community car college lol.
I'm a brake lathe repair person in the Dallas Ft Worth area I could probably count about 10,000 lathes at Shops so they're still out there plenty of places to do it. Heck I sell 24 of them a year to customers
Freddie shows up I always use new brake rotors I cant be bothered to take them get them machined takes time there cheap enough thanks for sharing your very educational video Jared is that a camera spinning on the end of that lathe go back to the ac guys Freddie is busy now being a new Dad
Over 25 years ago I once witnessed someone doing this by putting the car on a lift, putting it in gear and using a metal file on the discs! Did a good enough job to get it through its MOT test!
The vehicle moving with no other force applied to it (ie, coasting) has Potential Energy (not Kinetic). You convert the Potential Energy into Kinetic Energy by applying the brake. The Kinetic Energy *is* the "Heat Energy" used to slow the vehicle. The more efficiently the brake rotor can dissipate the Kinetic Energy into the surrounding air, the more effective the braking will be.
i luv the teaching aspect of this channel... i know of how most of the components on a car perform, but only book smart wise, so to actually see it performed with explanation is very helpful to a novice car lover like me, & it gives me a bit more confidence to work on my own cars, up till a point obviously... but thanks 2 jared, & can't wait for more classroom episodes in the future
Jared you are wrench everyday.....looking forward to seeing you take on projects and them finish them in a timely fashion . Please get a highmileage f150 evoboost EcoBoost give it a tuneup excettra a make over cowboy style....gotta be a kingranch.
The issue of finding a place that still does this not withstanding, the bigger issue is if the rotors you have can even be turned. The minimum thickness of the rotors was mentioned, however what wasn't mentioned was just how thin rotors are from the factory now a days. The vast majority of cars out there, the rotors are so cheap and thin that by the time someone gets around to wanting/needing to get them resurfaced, there simply isn't enough metal left to do it. Heavier duty (and weight) vehicles you might have more luck on, as the heavier a vehicle is the beefier (generally speaking) the rotors are. Also, as you go up in vehicle speed capability, the rotors get thicker then as well. It is an option that can still be found out there, but just be aware that rotors are getting much cheaper and thinner by default, so don't be surprised if they won't turn them for you.
I'm a brake lathe service technician and I keep up on what's coming out with the newer cars. Rotors are getting more expensive and getting thicker. And the recommending that you can resurface them at least once
On-car lathes are superior. Most "warping" (It's thickness variation) is from excessive runout caused by the hat/hub/bearing. An on-car lathe makes the full assembly true, assuming your wheel bearing isn't defective.
That's not correct about the on car lathes, or else it would be standard practice to on car machine new rotors once fitted, which never happens. If the car has a runout problem with the hub or wheel bearing replace that part.
@@toddttautomotiveequipment2871 You offer to match machine the rotors, but i bet you dont match machine every set of NEW rotors you fit to your customers cars? Off car machining is the same as on-car as long as you follow correct procedure checking for hub and rotor runout etc. If i can be within oem tolerance for runout with on or off car machining, how can you say one is better then the other?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have seen many brand new rotors get warped very fast. Then, after being turned, they never warped again, as if the metal took back it's ''natural shape'' at first when they warped. It is also good because it makes people work in your country, instead of always buying from China.
I have had many rotors turned at my shop and a number of them have come back due to warpage. Ive had to stop turning rotors all together because of the loss of profit. The material isnt what it use to be. I dont know the exacts of the compound, but its definitely not good. I'd lean more towards brand new 100% of the time given the price of rotors nowadays
You do realise Edd China on Wheeler Dealers did that same thing with an automatic brake disc restoring device. It's not for the DIY mechanic as it costs over £5000 but if a garage has one they can breathe some new life into old discs.
The biggest issue I see here is the the cups or Bell clamps is the correct term for them are too small. You should use the largest Bell clamps that you can. That will help with vibration.
yes I used to just put new pads on my 83 reliant till i could see the out line of the rotor cooling fins thru the braking surface. ah but with new rotors the pedal was high and braking was solid at that time rotors could come off after wheel removed and new rotor was $20 410 to have them turned so new was the best choice.
Machining on drilled or slotted rotors can also be problematic because of the material temper which was hopefully done post machining for the drilling and slotting.
Once rotor no longer had bearing races, they became cheapaer to make. Also they are often thinner than the old rotors and you cannot turn them after they have run a set of pads. It they are not warped, I just scuff them with course sandpaper and put new pads on. If they are warped you can turn them but usually the warp comes back,
There are three things you never want the cheapest on. Tires, brakes, and windshield wipers. All three will give out on you when you need them the most and can cause much more expensive repairs.
I've had this done on my 1991 Honda Accord with a special turn that mounted to the hub. Those cars had a hub over rotor setup where the rotor was pressed on.
Great channel and enjoy your knowledge and hard work. If you ever need a unique 90’s vehicle for future content, look me up, I am local. You inspired me to get going on my garage project, but I need to find an honest shop like yours to pay to get me over my hump. Keep the videos coming. Thank you.
I'm lucky with part prices on my little old car: a set of good quality rotors in the front will cost only 24€, but they are also tiny solid rotors. Way smaller than normal rotors on the rear axle of a new car. Drilled Brembo's are about 58€ for the set. It will help when the car only weigh 780kg or 1720 pounds, parts get cheap :-)
While this was a very interesting and informative video Jared. I have worked in machine shops all my life. Where are your safety glasses? Cast iron chips and dust is some of the worst stuff to get in your eyes. Lack of personal safety detracts for what is otherwise a great video.
Auuu, just to add to confusion here. Tires stop the car. A car is a total loss heat exchanger. You can not create or destroy energy, only change it's form.You put in gas( energy . not dead dinos, what ever) to burn. You lose most energy through heat, radiator, exhaust, brakes, tires ect. Brakes are just a transfer device from the brakes to the wheels, to the tires. First I heard of harmonics was on a Ford Taurus. We used a rubber strap around the rotor to cut it down. Also don't inhale the dust coming from the brakes. Hose them down FIRST to get rid of most of the dust. Anyway good video...
On more expensive sport/race rotors/disks i understand the process.. but for factory brakes on most cars for me replacing the brakes is cheaper then diamondcutting the disks by someone else.. in europe its hard to find people that can do it.. and if you find one they more then new disks cost... after mine are warped or used to the factory thickness i just throw them away and get new ones..
If you go down to the minimum thickness, you will get a brakerotor that looks like brand new, but you can't use it anymore, because if you do you will go under the minimum thickness.
rotors these days are much thinner than they used to be. i turned the rotors on my 69 chrysler 2 or 3 times before i needed new rotors. cheap way to keep driving. now the rotors are generally so much cheaper, the difference is $10-20 for turns, or $35-50 for new
Keep in mind that bench lathes are inherently not true and will always machine a small amount of runout into a rotor. This will cause vibration under braking in any performance car or really any car made around or after the year 2000. Use an on-car lathe or replace your rotors for the best results!
You really should make good practice of using a die grinder with a cookie to sand down the inside of the rotor hat that way you don't get vibrations and get a bad cut. Same goes for the on-car lathe
It’s kind of difficult to get a rotor turned anymore unfortunately. The discard thickness anymore is only a few millimeters less than the original thickness. Most garages I’m familiar with have stopped turning rotors in favor of just putting new ones
I didn't hear two words I was expecting in this video.. The words are "run out". I've had many rotors turned in my cars and I had to learn what run out is. For rotors it is a very slight warp in the rotor. It has to be there so that the pads are kicked away from the rotors once you've finished braking. If you don't get the pads away from the rotors, they continue to rub or brake the car, putting extra heat in the pads and rotors. Sometimes there are issues with the calipers that don't allow release of the pads. The result is further wear and in my case too often, the disk run out turns into a full blown warp and the rotor has to be replaced anyway, Does turning the rotors allow for run out? To prevent warping, I've asked mechanics to be sure to "grease the sliders".
I will no longer turn rotors. Most of the time you turn rotors to get ride of a pulsation in the brakes, sometimes just a great way to remove the glazing from the rotor. Ether way it remove mass and the rotors ability to absorb and remove heat. This usually causes the rotors to warp even faster. Also almost no one will turn a rotor for 10 bucks, it takes way longer to turn a rotor than that. Just order new ones from rock auto for about the same price.
If you're getting a pulsation out of your brakes after turning a rotor you have issues with your brake lathe for your adapter setup not being true. You need a guy like me to come out and fix your brake lathe so every rotor you throw on there it's going to cut straight
I'm guessing it must be different over in the US but over here in Europe disc facing has fallen out of fashion for one simple reason: wear rates. A new disc with new pads fitted together will wear out at a certain rate. This is generally at the rate of 1 set of pads for 3/4 of a disc. So when you come to replace pads, even if you don't reface them, the disc will now wear out before the pads do. As people only ever check pad wear, not disc wear, you can end up with 3/4 worn pads but a disc worn well below it's minimum level. It's down to the materials that are allowed in pads, they generally wear out rotors faster than the traditional, now banned, materials. For example: My car has discs that are 22mm thick new and a minimum thickness of 20mm. With all new discs and pads the disc will worn to roughly 20.5mm when the original pads are due. Say you get them refaced and that takes them down to 20.4mm then fit new pads. Potentially you could only have used up 25% of your pads by the time the discs are now below minimum thickness. The general public will just look at the pads through the wheel and think everything is ok until their disc fails on a long hill or an emergency stop. It's for this reason that over here it is always recommended you fit new discs and pads together. Guess how I found out about this info? Yep, the hard way.
I dont know anyone in the UK that does it anymore. I used to years ago when i had access to a Lathe. But now disks (Rotors), are so cheap from the likes of EuroCarParts, its just not worth the hassle. Just get new ones.
Not sure where you're buying your rotors from but I bought 2 rears (Raybestos) for my 2000 Prelude and paid $41 with shipping! Just another reason I throw out the old ones. Can't see cutting the old ones for $12-15 a piece and then replacing them in another 2 years.
Nice Vlog but you should have shown the thickness after you turned the Rotor as you are taking a cut from each side of it and some times its just not worth doing it when the Minimum is to close to what you have on the rotor . And if the Rotor has a warp in it. lol
Trying to actually use the first rotor will sound like you are stopping on a zipper in the car......it’s actually way easier to get the non-vented rotors to chatter on a brake lathe if you wanted someone to actually hear the noise from the lathe......like someone already said it is getting harder and harder to find a place that will actually turn the rotors and not want to charge a shop hour of labor
I had to take my car to my mechanic because my roommate put my pads on wrong. Passenger side was correct but rotor hadn't been turned. Driver side was incorrect and chewed my rotor to the point that I needed a new rotor which cost my $40 for that piece.
Jared on wrench everyday is one of the best things that happened in 2020
Deejay Mercado Jared is just freaking amazing! All his knowledge? Wow, just wow!!!!
He saved the name Jared #SubwayJoke
Just finding a shop that turns rotors is getting harder. I remember when every service station could do it. Great content!
Damn do auto part stores not turn brake rotors and flywheels anymore?
@@sinformant - If you hunt you might find one of the older shops that do, but for the most part they have gotten out of it.
You would have better luck if you go to the same machine shop that did the work on your engine block and Reground your heads not a tire shop . If they won’t ask them who would ?
I can’t find anyone around here that is willing to do it. The last shop I went to said their insurance company said the liability was too high and if they kept turning rotors, the rates were going to go way up to the point the shop wouldn’t have been able to make a profit.
Your best bet to find someone to turn rotors would be some small shop that’s in the middle of nowhere.
I can’t find a shop that will do it anymore either. Labor rates are so high it’s cheaper to buy new blanks
Jared: “Everybody needs Jared” 🤣
True story 🙏
I gave up having rotors turned when shops charged more to turn than the cost of new rotors.
Elliott Gardner ain’t that the truth!!!
I was taught 3 pass minimum. 2 fast to true it up, one slow for finishing. Of course measure for minimum thickness before the last pass. I usually cut about 8 a month, my boss charges 15 a rotor.
No you don't have to take three passes unless the rotor is really warped or grooved. Once you do your scratched cut and you turn the twin cutter all the way in if there is a solid line all the way around from the bit you can do it in one pass
sinned96 Yep, do a good fast cut (after measuring of course) then a good final cut. I use a sanding disc on the rotor after turning to put a nice non-directional finish on the rotor
Yeah, I need my Jared too. So, where specifically you can buy your own Jared in Europe?
Back in the 90s when I worked as a tech at a GM dealership we turned rotors on every brake job because back then rotors were expensive, unlike now. Same for rebuilding CV axles, was cheaper to replace the CV ends than buy a whole axle
Same here, we rebuilt calipers and wheel cylinders because of liability. I'm a retired Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, technician...
Now finding a guy who can do it without screwing up the rotor is hard. Not sure how you can screw that up, but they do
@@stephenhayes3765
Well, we're dealing with a generation that can't retrieve grocery carts, without messing up...
@@joeschlotthauer840 ThIs GeNeRaTiOn CaNt Do AnYtHiNg
I'm in Australia, and when I was doing my apprenticeship 20 years ago we machined the rotors every time on the 90's Falcons, workshop got an on car machine that was mostly running all day. but ten the newer models came out with slip on hat style rotors, and the rotors got cheaper.
Who's that amateur guest on Jared's channel?
That Mike Brewer, oh shit I mean Tavarish, ehh my bad same guy thi
@@NathanaelGreeronly difference is ive never seen humpty dumpty lift a spanner
The old Amoco brake and drum lathes we used to use in the Midas shop I worked for back in the early 90's had adjustable rubber wheels on stalks that we could ride on the rotor during the initial rough cut to stop the harmonics.
This is a great format for people who need the background knowledge of these issues. Seriously, "Brakes for Dummies," and other similar series. Good job in the presentation!
Fun fact, some brand new rotors are warped. I worked a Brake shop in the late 80's and would see customers complain about a pulsating pedal after a complete brake job was done that included New rotors. Take the new rotors over to the lathe and sure enough they are warped. We started routinely turning brand new rotors before installing after that. I was told this happens if the rotors are not stored laying flat in there boxes.
I’ve actually seen that also. Kinda not a big shocker since most rotors that are in autozone/oreillys come from China
Wow glad somebody else understands this I tell my customers all the time you're getting rotors come over from China on the boat those brand new rotors I've have seen 10 to 12,000 out
Last time I went to have some done the place wanted $30 a rotor and wouldn’t guarantee they would be true. New ones were $40 hard to justify the hassle
Jared doing a great job of telling us how to do a great brake disc job, I know a lot of people still can't grasp the fact that discs don't last like they used to, I remember explaining to someone, that the manufacturers took Asbestos out of the pads they told me that the manufacturers must have done it to fleece the consumer.
12:23 "If you mess up we will just cut"
*sudden dip to black
Hmmmmmmmmmm
A friend of mine had a mobile mechanic business and had a rig that would machine rotors on the vehicle, no need to take them off. Made him quite a good addition to his income.
I used to get this done when I was a poor student with an old slow car, also that was before you could get Chinese brake rotors for peanuts like you can now - but I wouldn't bother anymore when new ones are so inexpensive, and you can just drop the old ones off at a metal recycling service. The shop I used to go to had a special machine that could do it on the car.
The on-car brake lathe is industry standard now as it results in less lateral run-out ("warped rotors") and "aligns" the rotor with the vehicle's axle.
Big problem around here in western Canada is most shops don't turn rotors/drums for people anymore, parts suppliers stopped turning for customers. So was easier/faster to get replacements. My 1980 chevy Barreta, new 3rd party rotors were only $5 more than turning old ones (many years ago).
Those rubber straps to your right that look like bungie cords, those are supposed to be wrapped around the rotor to prevent that loud "singing" it made. Also that singing causes vibration and leads to very bad cuts.
They didn't have one that fit the rotors diameter on hand, so we used the contact pads which performed the exact same function.
That clip on silencer is basically made for the thin rotor that you showed from the Nissan Pulsar. It works but I would get the correct type of silencer for it. The spring silencer works great but they only come with four Springs. On a larger rotor it's better off to use five Springs. You don't want the silencer tight against the rotor, you want it loose so it actually dampens the vibration. If it is tight against the rotor it will vibrate with the rotor
All these youtube car guys have a guy, Tavarish has Jared, Goonzquad has Vtuned and B is for Build Chis has Oscar. Mad respect!
Yeah because all they do is create content. They aren’t really mechanics. Like you said they have a guy
Skimming works well with enough life left, problem is the sudden temperature change after a cut as the change in running temps are exponential for every micrometer taken off. They are more prone to warping after skimming.
my dad,s old BMW 1800 cs had from factory non-cooled front roters and drum brakes in the rear, but now it has the brakes form the BMW 3.0 csl which is cooled disc brakes front and rear.
I think nowadays ppl just replace the rotor instead of resurfacing as the cost of resurfacing outweighs the cost of the new rotor. Money economics...pure and simple
OOOh boy its good to see someone turning rotors. It used to be a common thing, there were on and off car brake lathes for just that. Even heard that on car jobs created the smoothest braking. Haven't seen either kind of lathe since i was in community car college lol.
Now the hard part is actually finding a shop who will do it. :'(
I've found Napa and O'Reilly some do. And some small shops. As hard as finding a moltres
I'm a brake lathe repair person in the Dallas Ft Worth area I could probably count about 10,000 lathes at Shops so they're still out there plenty of places to do it. Heck I sell 24 of them a year to customers
Miss your videos 802 garage
Only because I like Jared did I watch a video of him turning rotors.
Jared is a gem, smart guy and very honest.
excellent time that you guys get over stuff like that cause it is important..
Freddie shows up I always use new brake rotors I cant be bothered to take them get them machined takes time there cheap enough thanks for sharing your very educational video Jared is that a camera spinning on the end of that lathe go back to the ac guys Freddie is busy now being a new Dad
Over 25 years ago I once witnessed someone doing this by putting the car on a lift, putting it in gear and using a metal file on the discs! Did a good enough job to get it through its MOT test!
I prefer the car on jackstands in neutral and angle grinder with flapper disk method lol
it's actually a very common practice here at Indonesia,because for some people,full brake jobs are very expensive,we only change our pads.
Foreal that country is so broke I’ve seen people put pads on already scratched rotors
The vehicle moving with no other force applied to it (ie, coasting) has Potential Energy (not Kinetic).
You convert the Potential Energy into Kinetic Energy by applying the brake.
The Kinetic Energy *is* the "Heat Energy" used to slow the vehicle.
The more efficiently the brake rotor can dissipate the Kinetic Energy into the surrounding air, the more effective the braking will be.
i luv the teaching aspect of this channel... i know of how most of the components on a car perform, but only book smart wise, so to actually see it performed with explanation is very helpful to a novice car lover like me, & it gives me a bit more confidence to work on my own cars, up till a point obviously... but thanks 2 jared, & can't wait for more classroom episodes in the future
Jared you are wrench everyday.....looking forward to seeing you take on projects and them finish them in a timely fashion .
Please get a highmileage f150 evoboost EcoBoost give it a tuneup excettra a make over cowboy style....gotta be a kingranch.
In the UK we used to skim our brake discs (rotors), but now it is frowned upon and new ones are fitted.
The anti chatter bands are hanging on the right of the brake lathe...
Yes, VERY important for a proper finish. Although, the yellow "clamp" is the same thing and works well.
Otagner negative
Hi Jared and Tarvarish nice video 📹 and workmanship
It used to be to fast cuts and one slow to finish up. There used to be a chair to that you would sit on to help with vibration.
So glad Jarred brought up the Pulsar... it was the first car i thought of too because I used to own one
I have to use that machine in my high school it looks complicated at first but it’s actually pretty easy
I love you so much for showing old tricks of automotive mechanics.
The issue of finding a place that still does this not withstanding, the bigger issue is if the rotors you have can even be turned. The minimum thickness of the rotors was mentioned, however what wasn't mentioned was just how thin rotors are from the factory now a days.
The vast majority of cars out there, the rotors are so cheap and thin that by the time someone gets around to wanting/needing to get them resurfaced, there simply isn't enough metal left to do it. Heavier duty (and weight) vehicles you might have more luck on, as the heavier a vehicle is the beefier (generally speaking) the rotors are. Also, as you go up in vehicle speed capability, the rotors get thicker then as well.
It is an option that can still be found out there, but just be aware that rotors are getting much cheaper and thinner by default, so don't be surprised if they won't turn them for you.
I'm a brake lathe service technician and I keep up on what's coming out with the newer cars. Rotors are getting more expensive and getting thicker. And the recommending that you can resurface them at least once
I got rid of the lip on my vans disks by running it on tick over in 5th gear and holding an angle grinder on it. Worked well 😁👍
Thanks had no clue you could turn breaks learn something new from you guys every time I watch.
You probably still don’t even understand how it works. You don’t have to lie
Haven’t seen that done on brake rotors years, outstanding video
On-car lathes are superior. Most "warping" (It's thickness variation) is from excessive runout caused by the hat/hub/bearing. An on-car lathe makes the full assembly true, assuming your wheel bearing isn't defective.
That's not correct about the on car lathes, or else it would be standard practice to on car machine new rotors once fitted, which never happens. If the car has a runout problem with the hub or wheel bearing replace that part.
@@toddttautomotiveequipment2871 You offer to match machine the rotors, but i bet you dont match machine every set of NEW rotors you fit to your customers cars? Off car machining is the same as on-car as long as you follow correct procedure checking for hub and rotor runout etc. If i can be within oem tolerance for runout with on or off car machining, how can you say one is better then the other?
Btw runout(warping)and thickness variation are two different things, rotors can have one without the other or both.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I have seen many brand new rotors get warped very fast. Then, after being turned, they never warped again, as if the metal took back it's ''natural shape'' at first when they warped. It is also good because it makes people work in your country, instead of always buying from China.
I have had many rotors turned at my shop and a number of them have come back due to warpage. Ive had to stop turning rotors all together because of the loss of profit. The material isnt what it use to be. I dont know the exacts of the compound, but its definitely not good. I'd lean more towards brand new 100% of the time given the price of rotors nowadays
You do realise Edd China on Wheeler Dealers did that same thing with an automatic brake disc restoring device. It's not for the DIY mechanic as it costs over £5000 but if a garage has one they can breathe some new life into old discs.
The biggest issue I see here is the the cups or Bell clamps is the correct term for them are too small. You should use the largest Bell clamps that you can. That will help with vibration.
Jared and Freddy are awesome together
Turning a rotor makes it more susceptible to warping and cracking. That is why shops don't want to spend the effort.
everybody needs jared .... so true
yes I used to just put new pads on my 83 reliant till i could see the out line of the rotor cooling fins thru the braking surface. ah but with new rotors the pedal was high and braking was solid at that time rotors could come off after wheel removed and new rotor was $20 410 to have them turned so new was the best choice.
It’s nice to have Tavarish as a guest on Jared’s channel
Machining on drilled or slotted rotors can also be problematic because of the material temper which was hopefully done post machining for the drilling and slotting.
Jared, tie some old rubber wiper inserts around the perimeter of the disc, sooooo much quieter.
Once rotor no longer had bearing races, they became cheapaer to make. Also they are often thinner than the old rotors and you cannot turn them after they have run a set of pads. It they are not warped, I just scuff them with course sandpaper and put new pads on. If they are warped you can turn them but usually the warp comes back,
There are three things you never want the cheapest on. Tires, brakes, and windshield wipers. All three will give out on you when you need them the most and can cause much more expensive repairs.
Turning a brake rotor would be cutting down the outer rim. Facing it is using the lathe to cut the face where the pad rubs.
Guy's i think tavarish or aka freddy own this channel and boy he knows how to fix super broken cars
Tavarish and Jared are the best combination
Tavarish doesn’t even do shit. He’s not even a real mechanic he has other people do his things and he just records things for content....
One of the only channels where I like the video before watching it.
I've had this done on my 1991 Honda Accord with a special turn that mounted to the hub. Those cars had a hub over rotor setup where the rotor was pressed on.
I still wanna know who thought that was a good idea lol
It was a pain to replace or refinish but they lasted longer to me.
With an 11/16 Arbor I can cut those Honda rotors with the spindle attached but you got to remove the whole thing from the car
This is educational channel for mechanic
Great explanation, so that's why my bike doesn't have brakes after cleaning it lol
Great channel and enjoy your knowledge and hard work. If you ever need a unique 90’s vehicle for future content, look me up, I am local. You inspired me to get going on my garage project, but I need to find an honest shop like yours to pay to get me over my hump. Keep the videos coming. Thank you.
I'm lucky with part prices on my little old car: a set of good quality rotors in the front will cost only 24€, but they are also tiny solid rotors. Way smaller than normal rotors on the rear axle of a new car. Drilled Brembo's are about 58€ for the set. It will help when the car only weigh 780kg or 1720 pounds, parts get cheap :-)
While this was a very interesting and informative video Jared. I have worked in machine shops all my life. Where are your safety glasses? Cast iron chips and dust is some of the worst stuff to get in your eyes. Lack of personal safety detracts for what is otherwise a great video.
Auuu, just to add to confusion here. Tires stop the car. A car is a total loss heat exchanger. You can not create or destroy energy, only change it's form.You put in gas( energy . not dead dinos, what ever) to burn. You lose most energy through heat, radiator, exhaust, brakes, tires ect. Brakes are just a transfer device from the brakes to the wheels, to the tires. First I heard of harmonics was on a Ford Taurus. We used a rubber strap around the rotor to cut it down. Also don't inhale the dust coming from the brakes. Hose them down FIRST to get rid of most of the dust. Anyway good video...
ICE is not a total loss with heat but the most efficient ICE possible currently is around 45% and BEV is about 95%.
On more expensive sport/race rotors/disks i understand the process.. but for factory brakes on most cars for me replacing the brakes is cheaper then diamondcutting the disks by someone else.. in europe its hard to find people that can do it.. and if you find one they more then new disks cost... after mine are warped or used to the factory thickness i just throw them away and get new ones..
Well you answered the only question I had LOL. I use the slotted rotters on my truck.
I'm sooo glad I saw this. I've learned so much!! Thank you!!!!
If you go down to the minimum thickness, you will get a brakerotor that looks like brand new, but you can't use it anymore, because if you do you will go under the minimum thickness.
The minimum thickness is the minimum machine to thickness not the minimum wear thickness
Can you suggest well known places that do these jobs? How long would all four rotors take to do this process correctly?
Where is the vibration band?
rotors these days are much thinner than they used to be. i turned the rotors on my 69 chrysler 2 or 3 times before i needed new rotors. cheap way to keep driving. now the rotors are generally so much cheaper, the difference is $10-20 for turns, or $35-50 for new
Well don't sell your brake lathe yet. Rotors are getting thicker on the newer cars and their are recommending to turn them
Keep in mind that bench lathes are inherently not true and will always machine a small amount of runout into a rotor. This will cause vibration under braking in any performance car or really any car made around or after the year 2000. Use an on-car lathe or replace your rotors for the best results!
I need to check the specification on the thickness of the rotor and make sure that it's not too thin I have been certified as a brake mechanic
Jared you and UA-cam's auto generated closed captioning are made for each other
You really should make good practice of using a die grinder with a cookie to sand down the inside of the rotor hat that way you don't get vibrations and get a bad cut. Same goes for the on-car lathe
It’s kind of difficult to get a rotor turned anymore unfortunately. The discard thickness anymore is only a few millimeters less than the original thickness. Most garages I’m familiar with have stopped turning rotors in favor of just putting new ones
I didn't hear two words I was expecting in this video.. The words are "run out". I've had many rotors turned in my cars and I had to learn what run out is. For rotors it is a very slight warp in the rotor. It has to be there so that the pads are kicked away from the rotors once you've finished braking. If you don't get the pads away from the rotors, they continue to rub or brake the car, putting extra heat in the pads and rotors. Sometimes there are issues with the calipers that don't allow release of the pads. The result is further wear and in my case too often, the disk run out turns into a full blown warp and the rotor has to be replaced anyway, Does turning the rotors allow for run out? To prevent warping, I've asked mechanics to be sure to "grease the sliders".
Jared... Why not show Mods you have done to your Titan... Or you can upgrade mine...
My old tubed diesel hatchback has solid discs on the front.. Yeah they got hot..
I will no longer turn rotors. Most of the time you turn rotors to get ride of a pulsation in the brakes, sometimes just a great way to remove the glazing from the rotor. Ether way it remove mass and the rotors ability to absorb and remove heat. This usually causes the rotors to warp even faster. Also almost no one will turn a rotor for 10 bucks, it takes way longer to turn a rotor than that. Just order new ones from rock auto for about the same price.
If you're getting a pulsation out of your brakes after turning a rotor you have issues with your brake lathe for your adapter setup not being true. You need a guy like me to come out and fix your brake lathe so every rotor you throw on there it's going to cut straight
I'm guessing it must be different over in the US but over here in Europe disc facing has fallen out of fashion for one simple reason: wear rates.
A new disc with new pads fitted together will wear out at a certain rate. This is generally at the rate of 1 set of pads for 3/4 of a disc. So when you come to replace pads, even if you don't reface them, the disc will now wear out before the pads do. As people only ever check pad wear, not disc wear, you can end up with 3/4 worn pads but a disc worn well below it's minimum level. It's down to the materials that are allowed in pads, they generally wear out rotors faster than the traditional, now banned, materials.
For example:
My car has discs that are 22mm thick new and a minimum thickness of 20mm. With all new discs and pads the disc will worn to roughly 20.5mm when the original pads are due. Say you get them refaced and that takes them down to 20.4mm then fit new pads. Potentially you could only have used up 25% of your pads by the time the discs are now below minimum thickness. The general public will just look at the pads through the wheel and think everything is ok until their disc fails on a long hill or an emergency stop.
It's for this reason that over here it is always recommended you fit new discs and pads together. Guess how I found out about this info? Yep, the hard way.
Unfortunately you can't go to any old parts store like you used to be able to in my area :-( hardly anyone offers rotor turning services anymore
Is this the same as skimming your brake discs?
Used to do this at the dealership all day
I have a question, how come the discs aren't perforated to dissipate the heat? Do they only do that with higher performance cars?
We call it skimming in the UK
I dont know anyone in the UK that does it anymore. I used to years ago when i had access to a Lathe. But now disks (Rotors), are so cheap from the likes of EuroCarParts, its just not worth the hassle. Just get new ones.
Usually just swap pads if there is no pulsation in the pedal on my personal cars. No problems.
LOL @ Tavarish. "I'm f'ing hot. Bye guys..." *Waves*
Not sure where you're buying your rotors from but I bought 2 rears (Raybestos) for my 2000 Prelude and paid $41 with shipping! Just another reason I throw out the old ones. Can't see cutting the old ones for $12-15 a piece and then replacing them in another 2 years.
Safety glasses Jared. Metal shards in the eyes very painful
Brings me back to auto shop.
Nice Vlog but you should have shown the thickness after you turned the Rotor as you are taking a cut from each side of it and some times its just not worth doing it when the Minimum is to close to what you have on the rotor . And if the Rotor has a warp in it. lol
Trying to actually use the first rotor will sound like you are stopping on a zipper in the car......it’s actually way easier to get the non-vented rotors to chatter on a brake lathe if you wanted someone to actually hear the noise from the lathe......like someone already said it is getting harder and harder to find a place that will actually turn the rotors and not want to charge a shop hour of labor
I had to take my car to my mechanic because my roommate put my pads on wrong. Passenger side was correct but rotor hadn't been turned. Driver side was incorrect and chewed my rotor to the point that I needed a new rotor which cost my $40 for that piece.
Used to be a daily routine for me and why is jarred not using a vibration band