Palmetto PA10 Gen 3 - OVERPRESSURE ISSUES!! AR10 - Blown Primers and Punched Primers!
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2022
- The Palmetto State Armory AR10 - Gen 3 Returns… but with some big issues involving high pressures, punched primers, and blown out primers!!
What causes this? Ammo? Or a crappy gun?? Find out in this video! If you’re experiencing the same issues with blown primers and punched primers in a .308 or 6.5 Creedmore AR platform rifle! This video might be able to assist you, and let you know you’re not alone in facing this issue!
Here are the articles I reference in the video related to ammunition issues:
Primer Punch:
www.shootingillustrated.com/c...
Case Head Swipe:
www.shootingillustrated.com/c...
#ar10 #308win #psa #faxonfirearms #2ndamendment
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Before commenting: THIS ISSUE WAS RESOLVED. Check out the last video I made on the PA-10. To all of the elitest reloaders that are going to comment on how factory ammunition is garbage. These issues were occurring with high quality factory ammunition such as Federal Gold Medal Match, and even cheap ammo such as PMC X-Tac or Freedom Munitions. This was not caused by improperly loaded or higher pressure ammunition. This issue was caused by improper timing of the rifle, being that the bolt was extracting the fired case from the chamber prior to the pressures dropping to a proper level. The case has not finished swelling or depressurizing as it is being extracted. That pressure needs to go somewhere and many times it either pops out the primer from the primer pocket, or punches a hole through the primer as shown in the video. In order to resolve this issue, one needs to increase resistance by installing a heavier buffer weight, installing a stiffer buffer spring, and tuning an adjustable gas block. Tuning the gas block alone without adding the buffer or spring will many times not resolve the issue. The issue ceased to occur after performing the above listed steps. The issue does not occur with even the really crappy Freedom Munition ammunition. So this isn't ammo related. It was indeed a firearm timing problem. This is a common occurrence in LR308/AR10 platform rifles. They are finicky and require tuning. Check out the comment section to see the different rifle brands that people have experienced this set of issues with. Online in forums is another teller. Timing is the issue.
I cannot like this video enough!!!
Thank you so much for your efforts!!!
I love my A.R. 10 platform, but I was struggling with these exact same issues…
It’s people like you that make the world a better place!!! Your content will help people for years to come!
Right on! Glad it helped! Feel free to share it if anybody else you know has similar issues!
Wonderful video.. it actually explained alot if what im going through on my dpms gen 1 style 10. Ive been using loads i normally use in my bolt gun... just means i will have to work up loads for this gun. Was having the same peirced primer issue , this video shed a LOT of light on whats going on with my 10 . Thanks bro!
You bet man! I saw online there was a substantial amount of trouble with this, so I wanted to take a stab at it! I made an update video regarding my findings after more testing that’s on my channel! Check it out!
Knowledge is power bro. Thanks for posting this video. I appreciate it.
Absolutely! More tools in the toolbox was the goal! Thanks for watching
I have an Armalite AR-10B and my brother has an Armalite AR-10A. Mine was with a quad rail and my brother’s had a plastic hand guard. Mine had failure to extract issues, and my brothers had it as well, but it was a lot less prevalent. Replaced with a silent capture buffer from JP enterprises and it fixed the issue. The AR-10 platform just hasn’t been manufactured as much and the designs across multiple companies will go through the growing pains the AR-15 went through at a much slower rate.
Great points about the evolution of the AR10, definitely not being developed or paid attention to at the same rate! I’ve heard good things about the JP silent capture. That’s actually another alternative in the case that the heavy buffer I bought doesn’t cut it! Thanks for watching!
I’m here because I have a brand new Ruger SFAR 308. I finally had a range trip to discover I was blowing primers with Hornady Black AMax rounds. I’m most likely going to swap out the bolt as you did and possibly buffer assembly as well. I appreciate you for diving into this and making a video on it.
I’d ensure the bolt can be swapped, it might be proprietary with the SFAR due to the barrel extension also being proprietary. Check with Ruger before you buy!
Use Ruger's excellent warranty before you start throwing money at it.
Can't swap out a sfar bolt its proprietary
@@garrettpittman7374 Yup, that's what I figured. POF Rogue is the same principle. That's one of the things that keeps me away from something like the SFAR or Rogue for long term use. There isn't any aftermarket barrel support for those rifles!
This is a great video/wealth of information. Just subscribed. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching, I appreciate the view!
Really enjoyed your video. I have a Gen 2 PA-10 in .308 Win, and while the accuracy has been so-so, it has proven to be reliable. Since I opted for their cheapest model, it lacks an adjustable gas block or a free floating hand guard, but for less than $550 shipped, I can live with 2” to 3” groups at 100 yards. Since I hand load for it, I can tune my loads to avoid case head swipes and monitor pressure issues. I also have a PSA PA-15 that has been a little disappointing, accuracy wise, but has also been very reliable as well. I just picked up one of their low cost uppers to see if it does any better. Hope to see more content from you in the future.
Thanks for sharing your experience and thanks for the kind words! I’ve got an update video on my PA-10 coming very soon, just had to kick to out a bunch of other ones first! Hope you enjoy the content!
Heck yeah thanks I came looking for info on the case head burring issue I have.
Yeah man it’s been quite the project!
I love my PA10. Lapping and bedding the barrel has helped me keep 5 shot groups at 3/4 and sometimes better. It’s the training wheels edition of LR308s. Building a Gucci one now.
Good to hear!
What is lapping and bedding?
@@Fyoutube444 truing the face of the receiver so the barrel extension sits perfectly flat. Bedding is using a retaining compound around the barrel extension to remove all voids and spaces in the receiver. Lapping is proven to yield results, bedding not so much.
@@thismustbeajoke13 thank you sir for your feedback.
Good info, thanks
Thanks for watching!
Great video. Sharing right now.
Thanks for watching and sharing! Much appreciated!
I think the JP bolt is going to be my next thing with my rifle as well. I have a PA10 gen2 that I overhauled the recoil system in. The VSeven lithium aluminum buffer tube, enhanced H3 buffer, and teflon coated recoil spring did quite a bit of recoil mitigation and helped time it better. Felt recoil is similar to an AR15 now, maybe a little bit harder but very similar.
I would absolutely go with the JP bolt, it made an immense difference with my rifle! I upgraded to the Sprinco Orange spring and a 5.3oz buffer and it recoils similar to an AR15! Thanks for watching!
Finally found a great source of information for the same problem I have. I had a punched primer and stuck bolt in my new 308. I chamber checked and it passed, I need to take it all apart and start over this time measuring gas block port hole, gas block alignment, I have the low mass JP BCG with bolt. Need to measure firing pin and firing pin protrusion to make sure it's within spec. After 1sat shot I took it off the line. I have a Bear Creek Arsenal 20 in 1-10 twist socom barrel and heard bad things, In my ARs I run Ballistic Advantage with no issues. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for checking it out!
This is a great video. Thank you very much for posting. I have a palmetto AR-10 on order. I also have ordered Freedom Munitions ammo. If I see this problem, I'm going to send the upper back for a replacement
Thanks for watching!
Some of those pierced primes have flattened edges and some of them are rounded. Glad you stuck with your trouble shooting, this has to have been so frustrating.
It was frustrating, but I was able to stay positive throughout the process. Being levelheaded helped me become more methodical in diagnosing issues. It was a really good lesson that will help me with diagnosing issues in the future with other rifles. Luckily the issue has been mostly resolved. I’ve learned that when you get the timing right, and the gun tuned as good as it’ll get, the AR10/LR308 platform still is just rough on brass. No real way around it when you’re sending a full power cartridge through the AR design🤷🏻♂️
Wel, living and learning... new gun, great expectations, but not always things go really smoth. Please, keep us informed about the evolution of your experience.
Update video will be posted at some point!
PSA gen 3, 4, 5, 6, 7... 🪦 RIP
Congrats! Thanks for being the test crash dummy for PSA in advance.
@@nunzionapoli6325 with pleasure😘
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Piacere mio!
I have a dpms built lr308 and I also reload. I do extensive powder testing and have come across problems like this. A prime example is that when I ran BL-c2 in one of my loads with AGB it was noticeably more recoil and I also got blown primers and puncturered just like what you got. When I lowered the grain amount the problem went away. Since the powder was annoyingly temp sensitive I changed powders to SW Precision(ugly cousin of Varget) and the rifle was so under gassed or pressured that the rifle couldn't cycle until the AGB was full open. I since replaced the AGB with a regular steel one and just run it like that with still using SW Precision. I recently had perfect weather coming up for a range day and remade the BL-c2 recipe and it cycled perfectly fine with regular gas block, but had a harsher recoil yet no blown primers or anything wrong with the brass.
In summary I would suggest it's just the ammo type that your rifle doesn't agree with, or the amount of powder in their loads might be at max for your rifle. Just for scientific reasons I am curious how much a gas block change from a AGB to a full open one would change your rifles primer issue, but really just change ammo.
Thanks for the great data! An update video will be posted once I figure this all out!
I had problems with freedom ammo to over pressure too. Thanks for info.
Thanks for watching
Same
Having the same over pressure issue. Also having head swipe issues as well. New .308 gun with an Aero Nickel Boron Bolt that failed on first time out to the range -ejector spring failed (going to replace). Bought another complete Aero phosphate bolt carrier and bolt. Went to the range today and fired 5 shots. Primer unseated and became stuck in the chamber on the 5th round. Didn’t have the right tool to remove the stuck primer at the range so that ended my day. I’ve only shot Nosler 165 grn Accubond ammo through this rifle. My gun is an Aero M5 lower and upper with 20 inch Wilson Combat fluted barrel.
Sounds like you’re using quality ammo which is a good thing to rule out. Do you know what gas block you’re using? Just a standard gas block matching the profile of the barrel?
The good news is that you aren’t alone in your issue you’re having. It was incredibly frustrating for me, but I think I’ve been getting closer to a solution. So an update video will be posted very soon.
Great information! I own 2 PSA AR 10's in 6.5 Creedmoor and .308 and while I do not have any issues with FMJ , some hunting cartridges are hotter than FMJ as in harder cycling. Also with regards to ammunition , please choose carefully as I read and have seen certain ammunition such as Freedom Munitions( not all their cartridges) as well as Armscor ammunition manufactured in the PI especially their 9MM ammunition, and not in Montana where Armscor ammunition is made here in the USA with better quality control. Of course this could apply to any good commercial manufactured ammunition such as Federal, Hornady Winchester, Remington etc. Again well done with respect to gunsmith selection and research of blown primers in PSA AR10 rifles. I like you still believe Palmetto State Armory make a good if not great firearms without the high cost as the second gunsmith you went to affirmed this with regard to your rifle.
Good to know you’ve had good luck with your rifles! Yeah it’s been quite an interesting experience, the hunting loads definitely whop a bit more, but some of the hunting kids I’ve used (Norma 150gr soft point being my favorite out of this gun) has been great and shoots real soft! But yeah I’m definitely gonna be more selective with my ammunition! Thanks for checking out the video and commenting!
Thanks for this video, you helped me identify "case head swipe" alongside a badly blown primer that got caught in my Daniel Defense DD5's BCG and took it down hard. Going to try a flat wire spring and potentially a heavier buffer, I'm shooting suppressed which always complicates things but I should be able to tune it to perfection,
Glad I could help a tad! If you’re using a carbine buffer tube on your DD5 try the Springco orange spring. Definitely stiff and it will make charging the rifle a bit tougher but it has worked wonders for me! Good luck!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems It's actually an A5 buffer and tube, grabbed a Tubb Ar-10 spring for it, we'll see what happens, always interesting tinkering with someone else's engineering...
@@KidCorporate oh ok, right on! Let me know how that goes. I’ll say while it was a bit frustrating at first to have these issues, I don’t mind the tinkering aspect of it. There is something fun about the process of elimination and mad scientist like processes!
I discovered from research and bench time that if you’re running a suppressor on these larger AR rifles it is practically a requirement to incorporate AN ADJUSTABLE GAS BLOCK !!! The factory block with only one setting is full bore open and with the suppressor was diverting TOO MUCH GAS back to the bolt and the fired case would not eject.
The brand I settled on was ODIN. Adjusts 0 to 20. I found the middle adjustment 10 was the sweat spot. Works with or without suppressor.
Just built a .308" with and 18" Palmetto barrel. Very interested to see if I experience the same issues. Thank you for a great video and I love the camo pattern on your .308!
Hey thanks for checking out the video, and glad you like the video and paint job! Hopefully you don’t have to deal with this issue but if you do, the steps are now laid out and you’ll learn a ton about the rifle! Cheers!
Found this video just now because my s&w mp10 308 win completely blew out the primer and swallowed out the case so bad had to use a brass punch to remove spent shell
Hopefully these videos help!
Thx for the video. I’ve haven’t shot my psa 10 a lot. I’ve had it several years and no problems yet. It is mainly use for hunting so the round count is very low. But the information is valuable. The smith that said it is only a problem for that brand is probably not familiar with the 308 platform. From what I understand I hear they can be finicky. If you’re not willing to work through problems it’s probably not a good platform for you.
Glad you found some value in it! Yeah that’s one thing I’ve learned for sure, these systems really are finicky. But it’s been a positive experience, I’ve learned a lot! That being said, check out the update video I did! This thing runs like a sewing machine now!
7.62 NATO was never meant for carbine length AR's. The rifle length buffer tube gives enough time for the bolt to cycle. Manufacturers have gotten carbine length buffer tubes to work with band-aids like adjustable gas and heavy buffers. But it's still on the edge of not working and everything will always be a compromise if you have a carbine length buffer tube.
That seems to be the general consensus with what people have been saying in forums. From my own testing, just adding a heavier buffer and heavier spring has helped to eliminate case head swipe and primer issues. I think the final test would be to get a rifle length buffer system and see if that completely resolves the issue. Do you think the same is true regarding rifle length gas tubes? Does performance and reliability suffer with a midlength gas system in the same way as the Carbine buffer system?
Tuning a firearm isn't throwing a bandaid on it. Mid length gas system on a 16" barrel with a carbine buffer tube and the gun runs smooth with no issues.
EXACT same issues with an all Aero build w/3.78oz buffer. Case swipe, over pressure, blown primers, discoloration & carbon streaks. I even had a primer get blown out & lodge itself between the bolt/carrier/upper receiver & had to beat on the bolt release with a hammer to free it up & drop the primer. I don't have issues from steel cased ammo (no primer issues) other than occasional case swipe. I also find that my groups & ejection pattern are better with steel case. I'm about 3 seconds away from ordering a few different buffers. I will follow up with my findings.
Very interesting findings, I hope this video helped you try to diagnose the problem a tad bit more! One thing I wouldn’t note is to try getting an adjustable gas block for your rig! Getting the right amount of gas going back will help, even if it doesn’t resolve your issues immediately! Superlative Arms makes a great one! That is.. if you aren’t already using one! Thanks for watching! Stay tuned, I might be able to find a solution in the upcoming videos!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Absolutely looking into the SA-AGB if the buffer/spring swap doesn't work. I've seen others on here running a 10oz buffer in their ar10's & PCC's. I think I'll research it a bit more & see what I can find before I make a purchase.
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems First day out since receiving new buffers & spring. Went straight to the Tubbs flatwire for AR-10 & 5.78oz buffer (no failures to eject/extract/feed/LRBHO). I noticed an immediate shift in comfort/ejection/accuracy with all cartridges. Steel cased R.A.S 150gr. FMJ (3moa previous-1.7moa current) ejecting at 3:30 (previously 2:30), Hornady 165gr. SST gold primers(2.6moa previous-2.1moa current) ejecting at 3:30 (previously 1:45-5:00), & Igman 168gr FMJ (no D.O.P.E) (2.4moa) ejecting at 3:00. No blown/unseated primers but definitely still getting discoloration rings on 3/4 of the Hornady SST's. Strangest thing, the Hornady cases that exhibited the least amount of fouling/carbon/CHS/primer discoloration were the forward most ejected brass (1:45-2:00)...the dirtiest/primer discoloration/most CHS were those ejected at 5:00. Maybe the brass sealed better in the chamber but that results in higher pressure (why no primer problems if so)? Better primer seating? Combination? Witchcraft?! Either way, I feel like I'm getting somewhere at least. This Aero is loving the steel cased stuff, most consistent & accurate thus far. Might be able to shrink these moa numbers soon with a higher powered scope, currently using 1-8x28 Trij. Have you had the chance for any further diagnosis on yours?
If changing the buffer/spring doesn’t end up working out for you, maybe go with an adjustable gas block with more than 3 positions.
Absolutely on the radar! Thanks for watching!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems no problem man, you make good videos.
Gen 3 has a adjustable gas block
I shot my PSA AR10 for the 3rd time yesterday. I had 4-5 rounds that failed to cycle/chamber. Ejection was fine, but the bolt did not fully ride the round home to chamber it. I had to use the charging handle to get them loaded. One of them got stuck really good(could not move the charging handle) and I had to drop the mag and use the forward assist to eventually clear it.
The ammo is AMMO INC 308. I just checked the gas setting today it was 16 clicks out from closed. I've heard others say 10-12 is a good starting point, so moved it there for now, but given it was at 16 out originally, I'm wondering if it needs to be around 18-20 out or if it's just the ammo that's potentially a problem.
It's only got about 80-90 rounds through it total so far.
Interesting. Test some different ammo to see if you have similar results, especially if you have issues chambering the round of going fully into battery with the bolt closing on the round. I like to start with the gas setting turned all the way down, restricting the gas entirely, then opening the gas block one click at a time with one round in the magazine until you get lock back on an empty mag. Then I load 4 or 5 into the mag and try to cycle all of the ammo until the mag is melt and the bolt locks back. I then open the gas block usually one additional click just to pelvis a bit more gas to ensure that it will reliably cycle and lock back when empty. Check your ejection pattern too. Anywhere from 3-4:00 ejection is good to go in my book.
I’ve never used ammo Inc. 308 ammo, only ever used that brand in 9mm, and 10mm so I couldn’t tell you if that load is good or not. But the best thing to do is test different ammo through you gun and see what works best.
When you say you had to use the charging handle to get them loaded what do you mean?
You can also use ARM153-308 armaspec 308 stealth recoil spring, which is 5.7oz. Works good :)
Thanks for the recommendation. I ended up buying a Sprinco Orange 308 Spring recently and will begin testing soon. If that doesn’t pan out I’ll give this one a try! Thanks!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems I ended up having the same issue as you later, but found a primer in the BCG after cleaning, was likely plugging up one of the gas ports on the BCG/Bolt cause it only appeared after moving the bolt back and forth a few times... Also, my firing pin retainer was bent, and I figured that's why I was getting light strikes at the time. I replaced it with one of the solid ones that isn't a cotter pin and it runs fine, but still over gassed.
I heard that the gas ports on the barrel itself are also fairly large compared to some other barrels, so changing to a barrel with smaller ones might reduce gas as well.
Awesome and informative.
Not sure if you covered it, but did these blown primers result in any malfunctions?
Thanks for watching. Yes they did actually. One of the little pieces of primer that were punched out got lodged in between the trigger disconnect and the hammer. I had a dead trigger and I didn’t know why. Once I cracked open the gun, that’s when I saw that and is what started this entire investigation. Other than that, no malfunctions. Just a ton of gas being expelled from the ejection port when a primer was popped. Brass Facts has a video on his channel reviewing an Anderson AR10. He got punched primers galore in his sample. Just another example of how it isn’t exclusive to PSA LR308 rifles. If you watch the next video I have on this you’ll see how I fixed it. It’s a timing issue that requires slowing down the bolt carrier with heavier buffer, stiffer spring, a high pressure bolt to better support the primer and tuning of an adjustable gas block. It was a great learning experience
Simple solution. Norma Whitetail softpoint .308 150 grainammo. Sub 1/4" MOA groups @ 100 yards. This rifle loves this round! My PSA PA10 .308 is accurate as hell and operates flawlessly with this round. Absolutely no need for these added upgrades described in this video.
That’s my go-to round with this gun, and yes it works flawlessly! And I too have gotten very tight groups with that round! However the purpose of this experiment is to see if these upgrades will fix the issues that I have with other types of ammo! It could very well be that they won’t and that’s just how the gun will be, which is fine! But I won’t know for sure unless I try.. then I’ll have learned quite a lot about the platform! Thanks for watching! Glad to see you’ve had good luck with the rifle and that round as well!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems I understand and do appreciate your videos. I did a lot of research on what ammo works best with this rifle and the Norma ammo kept coming up. Admitedly, it's the only ammo I've shot out of this rifle. It's a new rifle for me and with the ammo performing like it is for a relatively low cost I'm good to go. I just love going to the range and am not a competive shooter. Keep the great vids coming!
@@diodeone1 Oh yeah I remember when I first sent some of the 150gr Whitetail through this gun and the groups were so tight, I was amazed! In my MSR 1-10x video review I show some hunting footage on Texas Hogs and that round smashed those pigs so efficiently. Couldn’t ask for better! Again, thanks for watching!
How do you paint your rifles? You should make a video. I haven’t seen any done this well.
Well thank you very much, and thanks for checking out my videos. Just spray paint and a bit of patience and creativity! I think I just might do a video on it, so thanks for the suggestion!
Nice video. I was about to pick one of these up until I watched. Any updates on performance after your last upgrade?
Update video coming very soon. Yes, definite improvements in performance! No more primers being blown out, with very minimal case head swipe. I’ll go into greater detail in the update video coming soon, just have to finish filming. Also just a heads up, the issues seen here are not exclusive to PSA AR-10’s. If you read through the comments some dudes have had issues with Aero AR10’s doing the same things, and many people online have had Wilson Combat AR10’s and other DPMS style LR308 rifles reporting the same things. Starting to believe it’s more common then not, just most people aren’t paying attention to their brass!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Good points, thank you! I'll be looking forward to your update video!
my primer hole and blown primer issues have been due to overpressure... it can be the ammo, but most of the time it is the gas length... the chamber pressure is still too high when the bolt unlocks... you need a rifle length gas for 308, and +2 for 6.5creed
Yeah, this rifle comes standard with a rifle length gas system and it’s still doing it. Good to know for the 6.5 though. Update video is coming soon!
I'm a complete newb with the AR-10 platform but I'm looking at buying a 20in Gen 3 PA-10 with the Geissele trigger. I'm hoping to use this rifle for deer and stretching out my target shooting further.
How do you personally like the gun and even after the upgrades is it worth it?
So far, aside from the overpressure issues that I’m still diagnosing and working on, the rifle has been a great pick for the money. Just choose a good bullet that works well with it and you should be fine. It is a heavy gun though, but yeah I think it’s worth the money! If you’re curious and haven’t done so already, go watch my other videos going over it’s accuracy. I used it for Hog hunting in my review of the SIG MSR 1-10x scope and the gun did great!!
Hes 100% right. Not all ammo is created equal. Ive built several ar10s dmps etc. they were all ammo picky. Most have issues with heavier 170 to 180 grain. Over pressure isnt good and using a hybrid barrel for 762 and 308 is best.
Yup, I definitely found it that to be accurate about the 170-180 grain rounds. Except I ended up fixing the issue. It’s a timing issue caused by the bolt trying to unlock and extract while the case is still under pressure. Had to slow down the bolt carrier with a stiffer buffer spring and heavier buffer. After that and tuning the adjustable gas block a bit, I can run all of the heavy grain ammunition without an issue👍
At 15:15, that looks like an over pressure load, (flattened primer.) And the primer pocets may not be all the same. Maybe some of the cases have oversized primer pockets. Try different ammo, to compare. But I won't be using any of that.
Already fixed the issue. It was a timing issue where the round was being extracted prior to being completely depressurized in the chamber. Solved by adding a heavier buffer, stiffer buffer spring and reducing the gas with the adjustable gas block. You are correct, the flattened primer was definitely an indicator of over pressure. This overpressure was caused by the timing issue I mentioned. It’s an issue with most LR308 platforms. The same rounds, while not the highest quality where later tested in a bolt action Ruger American rifle and after firing did not exhibit the same pressure signs of flattened primers. It’s a tuning issue with Lr308’s. This why they’re so finicky. But yeah, even in a properly functioning rifle, you can pass on the Freedom Munitions ammo. It just isn’t accurate and not consistent at all
I had a Windham weaponry r18fsfst-308, and it would always and I mean without fail bend the shit out of the FPRP. It even warped the original firing pin!!! It was my 2nd SR308, and I had nothing but issues from both of them. I wish they were as reliable as their little 5.56mm brother.
LR308 rifles are definitely a finicky beast. When they run right, they run well, but when they don’t… you’ve already experienced how frustrating it is
Hornady American gunner 155gr. Bthp works great in my gen 3 pa10 sub 1/2 Moa @100yds
Thanks for the info, I’ll have to try out that load🤙
Have had the same issue of blown primers with SIG SAUER Copper in 6.5 Creedmoor with and without suppressor. Not cool. Had the same horseshoe shaped burr. Aero build with Ballistics Advantage barrel.
No issues with Sellier & Bellot nor Hornady.
Ok so it isn’t just specific to .308 Win. Stay tuned, I’ll make another video if I have a resolution, but I think my theory of improper timing might be correct. I recently got a heavier buffer and while the case head swipe was still there, the burrs were completely gone. So at this point it’s a matter of testing different buffer springs while also using an adjustable gas block and I think I might resolve the issue. I’ll do my best to find a solution for ya!
Mine is also a rifle with rifle buffer and tube. 18” barrel w mid length gas tube.
Thanks to the great customer service at Odin Works....I installed an adjustable gas block and tested with again blowing primers out of the Sig Sauer ammo. Not cool. Called Sig, they're sending me a box of ammo as they stated they haven't heard of that happening ,as I'm sure they wouldn't have due to potential liability. Oh well. All other ammo works fine, including the "cheap" stuff.
The boys at Odin did say they had the best luck running rifle ++ length gas, but I'm not buying another barrel.
My gas setting is on the first detent from shut off to get it gassed properly.
Tuning the gas block helps. Adding a heavier buffer and stiffer spring in tandem with this and the addition of the JP HP bolt solved the problem
Sounds like another first, 2nd and 3rd GEN PSA release.
Congrats! You saved some Walmart shoppers some cash! 🎉
Absolutely just for viewers like you😘
I have blown primer problems with freedoms munitions. All other ammo I have used does not have this problem.
Fun fact: many AR10s do not feed soft point ammo well… ask me how I know…
Rifle: DD5V4, 18” barrel, 6.5cm
Replaced gas block with a strike industries adjustable gas block.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Yup the freedom munitions stuff was dropped the moment I filmed this video way back. Not good ammo. Never had an issue with my rifle feeding softpoints. Norma 150gr whitetail loads were my hog killing round out of PA10 and it worked perfectly. Issue was fixed by increasing buffer weight, stiffer buffer spring and fine tuning the adjustable gas block to control timing. No more blown primers in any ammo I have tried, including freedom! Thanks for watching!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems that gives me hope. After watching your most recent video, I ordered a heavier buffer spring. Hopefully it fixes it for mine as well
@@michaelgoodrich5309hope it helps! AR10/LR308 rifles are very timing sensitive. Even with adjustable gas blocks many times they’re still cycling too fast. The bolt is unlocking and attempting extraction prior to pressure depressurizing to proper levels, so the case is still swollen against the chamber walls. It’s still extracting while it’s under that pressure so the pressure has to go somewhere and it’s usually out the primer end. Once I understood that, everything made sense. Heavier buffer and stiffer spring. Charging the rifle will be a bit more difficult, but in tandem with the adjustable gas block you should see results! Good luck!
I shoot a PSA AR-10. Zero problems. I have more than 1500 rounds through mine.
Nice!
I have been Using NATO issue ammo on a Windham Weaponry LR 308 and have been experiencing over pressure.
Hopefully these videos help you!
Anything JP is $$$! My psa gen 2 was so overgassed it was double firing! Sent it back and they fixed it. The Ruger sfar was swiping cases when I accidentally left the gas system on 3 while suppressed and also blew out a primer!
Glad they fixed it! Interesting to see this also applies to the SFAR. I suspected it would
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems been pretty good otherwise
Would recommend American Marksman for budget ammo. My PA-10 G3 loves it. Had zero issues with it.
Also, I am wondering if you're over oiling. It seems your BCG is too wet. Would you try cleaning your BCG and then very lightly oiling and see if the operation improves? It''s possible that there is hydro locking occurring.
I too added a Spikes Tactical extra heavy buffer. It was a good add.
Did you reuse the PSA bolt with the Faxon barrel? If so, did it pass go/no go?
Never heard of that ammo. I’ll have to check it out! Nope, that bolt carrier is very lightly oiled by comparison. It was frog lube so it’s a bit drippy, but I put oil on my fingertip prior to applying it to the bolt lugs, so liberation isn’t an issue there. Good thought process though.
As for the bolt, I’ve only been using the JP HP bolt since I got it and it passes headspace with the faxon barrel.
Is that rattle can? If so, good work because it looks good.
Yes sir it is!
I'm here in az also saw the problem you were having with overpressure and you used freedom munitions, I ordered two boxes of 308 165 gr for my bolt gun and had the case stick in the chamber it has to be the ammo. Do not use freedom munitions reman ammo it is overpressured
Yes, pass on that ammunition. But to be fair my rifle did this with multiple other types of ammunition such as Hornady Black, Hornady Match, Superformance, Federal Gold Medal, and various other types of ammo. It was indeed a rifle problem
I've noticed a difference in the gas block location. Majority are located in the middle of the handguard hence the reason why you need the long allen wrench. I've noticed a few now where the gas block is located at the end of the front handrail so there would literally be no need for the long allen wrench. I wonder if the location towards the front and a longer gas tube might be affecting or causing some of the symptoms? The majority of them are located in the middle of the handrail is why the tools included. Just a theory.
PSA sells this rifle in a variety of configurations. Some with 20” barrels, 18” and if I’m not wrong some 16” versions. When the barre length changes there’s usually a different gas system length, like midlength or rifle length which would then change the location of the gas block on the barrel. This affects dwell time or the amount of time the gas has to stabilize measured from the gas block to the muzzle end. This issue is 100% a timing issue, being that the bolt is unlocking and trying to extract the case from the chamber while the case is still under some pressure. The rifle length gas system allows the most amount of time for the gas system to depressurize and settle due to the greater amount of dwell time. So if anything I think the problem could be a bit more pronounced with a midlength gas system than a rifle length system. I did pretty much fix the issue, by adding a heavier buffer and a stiffer buffer spring while adjusting the gas block down and the issue pretty much went away. A little bit of case head swipe but very little.
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems thank you sir for your feedback! I just realized last night after doing some research that they basically gave my friend a gas block setup for a 20in barrel instead of an 18-inch barrel which would place the gas block more in the center of the handrail instead of at the end.
While changing buffer springs go with grosser triple wire 42 spring and a h3 buffer
Issue was resolved
I just got a stock psa ar10 seems like I need a Jp bolt assembly reccomend anything else? Really thinking about changing to a muzzle break also
I would test it out for yourself before you buy a JP HP bolt assembly. If you don’t have any of the issues I had, then there’s no need to upgrade! If you want a muzzle brake that’s a great addition. Start with that if you want one and shoot the gun a bunch, then you’ll figure out what you want/need!
My buddy has a Remington 308 AR and he took one shot today and the anvil was in pieces with one piece stuck in a hole it made in the primer cup
Bummer! Its unfortunate to accept but 308/6.5 based AR’s are just so much more finicky and prone to these types of malfunctions.
buffer and or spring. should be ejecting at 3 to 4 oclock. try tubbs springs, the best
Yup, I did the Springco Orange and a heavier buffer. I have an update video on the channel if you haven’t seen it already! I’ll check out Tubbs
Fellow Arizonian over here in Buckeye and Well I took out my “BCA 6.5 creedmoor upper 3d printed lower” today and had one blown primer and 10 punched primers out of 20rd and case head swipe, but It’s also not cycling the bolt enough to chamber the next round almost every round or hold the bolt open when empty, idk if it’s my mind but I feel like the bolt doesn’t cycle as smooth as it did before I shot it. This is my only AR platform so can’t compare and don’t have the time on it to know for sure but it feels like the bolts catching or dragging after the first 1-2mm of movement. I have non adjustable gas for the time being and the armalite ar10 A5 buffer kit. Would a issue with the bolt not being as smooth as it should be cause over pressure symptoms? Oh and I was using some pretty tame Winchester sp rounds just to get some rounds through it and make sure the lower was gonna hold together lol.
Im not sure if that would have anything to do with it causing high pressure symptoms, but I would definitely take the thing apart and make sure you don’t have any pieces of the punched primers inside like I did. Check the FCG and the BCG for any pieces just in case.
Good call! I found 5-6 little presents under the extractor. Gonna clean/lube everything up real good and try some Hornady ammo I have today or tomorrow.
@@ryanfonseca3270 Glad I could help. When my gun was punching primers the pieces got lodged in the BCG and made it so that they impeded the firing pin from striking the primers, so I got some fail to fire’s.
Well thank now i know i need to take a handful of every ammo type i have and run them through my pa10 am i sad nope.
Unfortunately AR10’s appear to be kinda picky with ammunition. It can’t hurt to test what you’ve got to see if you’re getting any similar results
Hey man when can we expect the next update video? I’ve got the same gun and have been having light primer strikes and it’s not wanting to cycle properly. I was using steel case ammo. Maybe that’s the problem idk. Gonna try some brass next time I go to the range. Any recommendations?
Oh yeah man, next update coming very soon! Probably within the next month but more likely in the next 2 weeks! So first try using only brass cases ammunition, as the primers in steel cases rounds are a bit harder. Is it the stock trigger and what do you mean specifically it isn’t cycling properly? If you need to and have pictures or anything, send it to my email in the description! I’d be happy to help answer anything!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems I have the 2-Stage Nickel Boron trigger in it. And when I finally do get a round off it won’t cycle the next round in. And I appreciate the help and the videos man
@@Adam98086 Ok, and do you have the Gen 3 with the adjustable gas block?
@@Adam98086 Next time you have a malfunction take a picture of it and send it to my email! Hope I can help!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Yeah the gen 3
I have Daniel Defense DD5 6.5 20"; Aero Precision M5 308 with Wilson Combat SS 20' super sniper. AP M5 will shoot 150g to 175g match Loads but is abusive on brass case - cases deform enough that the expanded dimensions prevent case from being used unless it is Small Base full sized when reloading. I never reload a round to exceed Gold Medal Match velosities (175 SMK 2600 fps). The DD5 6.5CM is brass abusive too. DD5 likes 120g - 140g factory loads. Heavy bullets and slow powders can damage AR10 platform guns. I run both guns with Tubbs Rifle length Buffer spring, H3 Buffers, All powders with burn rates from Hodgdon Benchmark to Hodgdon Superformance work well with both guns. H 4895, Reloader 15 , Hodgdon Superformance work well. I am currently working with Winchester Staball 6.5 in the DD5 with 140g ELDM's (43.0g - 43.9g seem to be well below SAMI max pressures).
Thanks for the feedback!
If you replaced the bolt and barrel the two most expensive parts of the gun. It's not really far to call it a PSA anymore.
Sure that’s fair
Ik this is an older video but the gen3 is an adjustable gas block
Correct, it came with the adjustable gas block on it, I just hadn’t messed with it at all right out of the box as I wanted to see how it would run without any adjustments. Tuning the gas block in conjunction with adding a heavier buffer spring, buffer and the JP high pressure bolt, fixed the issue
Does the Palmetto AR-10 lower take the same buffer weights as an AR-15?
Or did you have to order a heavier buffer weight specific to an AR-10?
I was wondering if I might also need to change the carbin buffer to a rifle buffer for my 20" upper 308.
AR10/LR308 platform rifles take their own buffers, so when you’re looking for one just search for LR308 buffers.
@SabertoothDefenseSystems thanks brother. Found on Midway USA
@@tsafa Good to hear! Enjoy your rifle!
My sfar has been a 1300 dollar troublemaker...i have h3 buffer in it and springco orange spring and it still swipes the case heads on setting 2...ive just come to the conclusion its just gonna do it if it wants to...its been back to ruger several times and now my bolt is showing some deformation on the lugs after maybe 600 ish rounds...i wanted this rifle to work so bad but its just not going to...might be ok to shoot a box of shells a year for deer hunting but not for shooting higher round counts
Dang man that’s a real bummer. The only thing left to try would be to add an adjustable gas block. I know the SFAR comes with a 3 position adjustable gas block, but I’ve heard reports of people swapping to something like the riflespeed adjustable gas block and having success getting the rifle to run smoothly. The 3 positions from the factory aren’t enough in my opinion. LR308 platforms truly require precision tuning through more adjustments. If you don’t want to do that, I’d send it to Ruger and utilize their warranty, and they’ll probably give you a new bolt and possibly take a look at your gas system. It’s unfortunate and I can feel your pain, as the cost of 308 or 7.62x51 isn’t cheap. Thanks for sharing your experience! I’m trying to compile as much data as possible to show everyone that this isn’t solely a PSA related problem!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems no problem and yes you are correct...it needs a diff gas regulatory w more adjustment...i don't think I'd be willing to spend that money on it tho bc the durability aspect is not there...that bcg is the Achilles heel of the sfar and it is not strong enough for high round count
@@garrettpittman7374 Hey man, I totally understand. Sometimes the juice just isn’t worth the squeeze! Real bummer too because I liked the idea of both the SFAR and the POF Rogue but both are plagued with problems just like this!
This is a 1 moa rifle with the right ammunition and the palmetto series rifles have consistently outperformed other more expensive brands in torture videos. That guy at the gun store was uneducated. Last I checked it was the best performing rifle on AK operators test and his is a good test.
This is 100% an ammunition problem. They could be temperature sensitive powders, overcharged, or both.
I’ve found this rifle to be very reliable and accurate as well with the right load. I did an update video to this. Basically timing was the issue. Heavier buffer, and a stiffer buffer spring alleviated the issue!
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems thank you so much for this video and this conversation I just read pretty much I just bought this exact same raffle and was bummed until I read this... Thank you so much 🙏
I just got 100 rounds of freedom munition for ar10 and this just happened to me completely blew out the primer the bullet never left the case and it was scuffed on the side of the cartridge not sure what happened
I would stop using those rounds and contact freedom munitions
What gas position are you running?
Everything runs in gas position 1 to 5 for me out of 17.
My gun came in position 12/17 which is way over gased. I guess they do it so it will run everything including does low-power hunting loads. For subsonics, you have to open it up all the way and it may still not cycle and lock back.
Free Munitions 150 gr gas 1/17
Free Munitions 147 gr gas 2/17
American Sniper 149 gr gas 3/17
Tula 150 gr gas 4/17
If I was going to war with the gun and I needed absolute reliability I would go up two more gas positions on each.
I honestly didn’t count the clicks. The gun was way over gassed and still exhibiting pressure signs even after reducing it to the lowest settings it would cycle at. I had to add a heavier buffer and stiffer spring to fix the timing/cycling issue prior to adjusting the gas block. I made another video you can watch to see. I opened the block up till I had 4:00 ejection and no case-head swipe or other pressure signs on the brass
Did you mention the specific model # of bcg?
I may have missed it if you did.
I have a gen 3 as well.
Did you mean the stock BCG? If so I didn’t
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems I got the tool craft with my gen 3.
I was wondering what model upgrade you got from JP
@@Synistercrayon No problem, JPEB-308HP. I bought it from Midway USA. Product number is #315790
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems excellent! Thank you!!
Its obvious now, so not trying to be captain obvious to my peers, but this happened because he bent the pin not adjusting the gas system from the beginning. As it turns out I have this almost exact setup. PA10 with Guiselle SSA-E two stage from the factory and 18 stainless (only because that was the deal at the time. Put same scope and PWS brake/flash hider. I also put a 5.6 oz short heavy buffer (ODIN WORKS I think) and went to heavy buffers and bought the matching spring for that weight buffer. All before the first outing. I did this, since this would be replicating the weight Stoner intended and would slow the bolt back and forward. If the gas system ever gives me an issue then I can safely run a standard block for near 100 percent reliability. Now my PCC 9 kicks more than my PA10! Its that good with the gas system adjusted perfectly. This is an excellent set up for the money. Was really impressed with the last video using different ammo. I'm definitely going to pick up some Norma. They are great in the 15 too.
Awesome, thanks for sharing! Yeah I just upgraded with a heavier buffer and a Springco Orange spring.. so I’m betting it’s gonna help dramatically!
@@wheelstandr Awesome!👊
JEEZ
I JUST CANX -----STOPPED AN ORDER OF A PSA PA 308 . AFTER THESE REVIEWS .
I DONT NEED A GUN I HAVE TO WORK ON OR FAILS ETC.
STICK WITH MY OLD OLD M1A FOR A WHILE LONGER
THX
2.1.24
👍
Every firearm is different. Some firearms like different ammo.
Ain’t that the truth! While it’s a tedious experiment, it’s been eye opening for sure to see how different ammo reacts in this gun. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for separating LR-308 and AR-10. Too many people don't realize the slight differences.
No problem. It’s easy for people new to the platform to get confused so I figured I’d make sure I specified
B-b-but PSA are just as good!!!! REEEEEE!
ROFL
Never said that lol. Just interesting to test it out. But yeah definitely not just as good🤙
For a softer shooting rifle (and less stress on bolt) you should have switched to a rifle length gas system when you changed the barrel.
It is a rifle length gas system🫡 Came like that from the factory, and I kept the same gas block and tube
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Sorry, my mistake then. I had thought you mentioned a mid-length system on the original barrel.
@@stephenurban9880hey man, not a problem. I very well could have misspoke so I’ll have to check it out and maybe add a correction to the video! But yeah after this experience I don’t think I’ll ever run anything but a rifle length gas system on LR308/AR10’s! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Brother I Am a Army former weapon Specialist. I have been knowlegeable Enough to know. The PSA bolt carrier Group is the issue. I Bought a CAC BCG it Has a duel Extractor changeing this one major Part removed this Problem. I have no issue with my AR-10. TRY THIS .... Trust me I have Talked To a SF 18-B on this as well . Also get a Armaspec 308 buffer spring system. You Will thank me for this later...
The issue was resolved with a JP enterprises High Pressure Bolt and Springco Orange Spring, along with a 5.3oz heavy buffer to slow the bolt carrier group down in conjunction with adjusting the adjustable gas block. No more issues
I have a PSA10 Gen 3 308 and have broken numerous bolt catches when I add my suppressor (DA sandman L). Also I can’t even hit paper when I have the can on but can punch through the same hole w/o the can. Any suggestions?
Interesting. Ive been shooting a lot with my new Dead Air Nomad 30 can, and I haven’t had any of those issues. Have you made any adjustments to the adjustable gas block? Adding a suppressor increases the back pressure and sends the bolt carrier much faster than without one. So I’d start there. As for the accuracy, point of impact definitely changes, but it shouldn’t cause you to miss the paper entirely. Not sure what’s going on there.
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems yeah I had it closed all the way off and walked it off to where it would just cycle enough and still was not precise or accurate. Might try re-threading the brake or even giving dead air a call. The rifle is concentric and there are not baffle strikes but I’m lost at this point
@@Evan_Macke hm yeah that’s super weird. The only other thing I can think of is maybe the muzzle brake might be torqued too much. That can constrict the muzzle and cause groups to spread inconsistently.. but you said it shoots accurately without the suppressor, so that wouldn’t make any sense🤔 Do you have any other 308’s or other rifles I’m general that can take your can? Does the accuracy change with the can on those guns?
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems that was my thought too but the second I take the can off it holds sub MOA still. Unfortunately this is my only 308
@@Evan_Macke if your able to look into your suppressor, do you see any jacket separation or literal pieces of jacket or gold marks on the inside?
So, instead of listening to the 2nd gunsmith tell you that this is an over pressure issue and to try different ammunition your not going to listen to him or yourself say so many times “over pressure”. You instead insist on changing parts that yes may be stronger however they are not going to change the fact that there is an over pressure issue! A chain is only as strong as its weakest link. You are just changing the link (location) of how & where the firearm is going to ultimately fail and make you the star on Brandon Herrera’s Darwin awards. Put the firearm back to original and get a chronograph and use it when testing the different ammo types. You will be able to identify the velocities on the higher pressure ammo. Once you have found ammo that isn’t showing signs of over pressure then change parts as you see fit. I have many PSA firearms including an ar10 all work just fine. By the way did you reach out to PSA about this issue?
The second gunsmith believed it was an ammo related pressure issue, not that the gun was having an overpressure issue. He told me that anatomically and functionally with S&B ball ammunition the gun was shooting fine with no signs of higher pressure in the round. Now with all of that being said, I found it silly how only certain types of FACTORY ammunition could be shot through this gun, and other grains or brand ammo would exhibit pressure signs. And I simply wanted to know WHY, and try to figure out how to resolve that, rather than chopping it up to, “I can’t use that type of ammo through this gun”. I found that the issue wasn’t due to ammunition itself, it was because the firearm would cycle the particular ammo differently due to cycling too fast. The issue was fixed because I continued to test and evaluate, by changing the bolt which is meant to better support the primer in a high pressure cartridge such as a .308 Winchester. Headspace was always checked prior to performing any test after a change in the bolt. The issue was determined to be a timing issue, something that is very common in LR308 platform rifles, from all of the research that I performed. This is such that the bolt was moving so fast that the case hadn’t finished depressurizing in the chamber while it was being extracted, which at times blows the primer out or punches a hole in the primer. After adding a heavier buffer and stiffer spring along with tuning for the adjustable gas block, the issue was resolved. Just because you haven’t had the issue in your own PSA guns doesn’t mean that they can do no wrong or that there won’t be a problem in someone else’s gun. If you bother to read any of the comments in this video or the other PA10 related troubleshooting video regarding it being resolved, you will see other people commenting on the same issue that was presented on other people’s LR308 rifles, including those manufactured by Daniel Defense and Aero Precision. This isn’t solely a PSA related issue, so I wouldn’t put the blame on them either. It’s just something that happens from time to time with certain peoples guns, and not all. I did in fact contact PSA regarding this and the rep I spoke with informed me that they were aware of my videos and my findings. That is all.
Now whether you believe what I did was dumb, pointless or simply that you disagree with what I did, which is evident by referencing me possibly earning a Darwin Award, no matter what I say will change your mind about this video. And that’s the beauty of America and free speech, that being the you have the right to say and feel any way about anything anybody else does or says. In this instance I wanted to learn about the platform, self diagnose and evidently I fixed the issue. I would not have understood the issue of timing and how important it is to the function of an AR platform shooting cartridges such as 308, 6.5, .243 or 7mm08. Also just because a gunsmith says one thing, doesn’t mean it’s gospel. Say your vehicle is showing a clear problem in function or a wierd sound that is driving you nuts that you know is out of the ordinary. You take it to a mechanic or a dealer and they tell you they can’t replicate the issue and that it’s fine. How often do people just go, “well damn that’s what they said so I guess that’s the way it is”. Of course not. You take it to a different guy. If they say the same, or even something different but you’re still not convinced, you take matters into your own hands sometimes. That was the case in this incident. I valued the opinion of the second smith, but I wasn’t convinced it was solely an ammunition related issue, and by trial and error in testing different parts in the gun, guess what? I fixed the issue and any ammunition I shoot through the gun works flawlessly and doesn’t exhibit the same signs!
I understand the inherent risks of working on my own firearms, as I actually built AK platform rifles (which mind you are very sensitive to proper head spacing and pressure related issues) professionally for Lee Armory in Arizona year ago prior to changing my career field.
Regardless thank you for commenting and watching this video!
Seriously why didn't you turn the gas down you have an adjustable gas block they gave you the wrench but I don't hear a single word about turning the gas down
It was turned down, my bad for not mentioning it. It was a timing issue resolved with a heavier buffer and heavier buffer spring. In tandem with tuning the gas block it fixed it, but tuning the gas block alone did not
Grissel triple wire spring they last longer
Issues were fixed with Springco Orange buffer spring and AR stoner heavy buffer. Thanks for the suggestion though
Over pressure ? Or over gassed ? Over pressure is an ammo problem. Over gassed can be solved with an adjustable gas block.
It was overpressure caused by improper timing. Bolt was unlocking and extracting round prior to chamber pressures dropping to safe levels. Fixed with heavier buffer in tandem with tuning the adjustable gas block. After doing so, no more overpressure signs such as case head swipe, burrs, flat primers, blown primers. So overpressure signs on brass caused by over gassing and improper timing
Kind of defeats buying a budget rifle and spend that kind of money on aftermarket parts.
Yeah, I whole-heartedly agree. Didn’t know I’d have to though, so just kind of how it goes sometimes!
I think I'll just buy a Windham and stay away from the junk
Ive never shot a windham so I wouldn’t know! But for what it’s worth, this issue isn’t exclusive to PSA. I’ve seen it and heard it has been exhibited in Daniel Defense’s, Armalite’s, Wilson Combat’s, Aero Precision’s, POF’s, even JP rifles. This issue could very well occur with a Windham if not properly tuned as the vast majority of LR308’s are not.
There’s forums all over the Internet with people owning a variety of different brands demonstrating the same issues. Not solely PSA.
And also for what it’s worth.. Windham Weaponry went out of business in September of last year, and almost liquidated before announcing their reopening in December. Hopefully they make a good product, but going under isn’t really a good sign. But to each their own!
Man every AR-10 video has nothing but issues. I don't see that many on the 223
I eventually resolved the problem! But yes, AR10’s are finicky.. I’ll be the first to say that. If you don’t want to bother tinkering and troubleshooting if need be, then stick to 223/556. Just kind of what happens when you put a full power cartridge into the AR platform🤷🏻♂️
Buffer weight will help dwell time
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Great information to consider. I jus purchased the PSA ar 10. But please consider changing the obnoxious metal intro music. Just because you like it isn't a good reason to use it. Think of a wider audience. I almost just swiped your video away just due to your music intro choice. Just sayin.
Well I mean it is my channel and viewers come and go so.. just sayin👍
Fair. Honestly I did like the video.
@@brockhart3089 No worries at all, I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment. All feedback is helpful👍
I ordered from freedom once............................and once was enough
Yeah this might be it for me🤷🏻♂️
I bought PSA 💩 once ,, once was enough.
That gunsmith wasn't making fun of PSA and it's well justified!
To each their own man. There’s something to be said about the work PSA has been doing to get new shooters into the game, and from what I’ve seen their products do fairly well for the price point. Yeah they’re not Daniel Defense or BCM, but at the price point they come at they work. And from all the research I’ve done and some of the comments below you’ll see that the issue experienced is not exclusive to PSA AR-10’s.
If it was only seen in the PSA’s I would have scrapped this thing and chopped it up to that. Go on forums and see that some dudes with high dollar Wilson Combat LR308’s are having the same issue.
Regardless, the Smith can do and say what he wants. It’s his business so yeah. But not a lot of people like when you immediately write off their product instead of trying to figure out what the problem is. I bet it would piss you off if you went in with an aero precision having the same problem and the smith said your issue was that you bought Aero, rather than trying to diagnose the problem.
Raise your hand if you know the customer service number for PSA! Enough said, it's garbage let's move on.
Sorry you feel that way, cuz the rifle is working great after a little bit of testing! More to come. But to each their own! Thanks for watching!
Wow I think that brass just might have a slight over pressure signs. Lol jeesh
Yup, it was definitely a problem. Good thing it’s been resolved
I use a tool raft duel ejector hp big in my aero m5 6.5 creed and my 12.5” 308 pistol.
Toolcraft**
Toolcraft makes the bcgs for psa
Nothing is wrong with the gun that any experienced reloaded knows you have bad ammo with over powder charges and inconsistent powder charges.
Blown holes in primers - pucker up firing pin strikes all indicated over powder charges and high pressures.
This is exactly why I never buy commercial loaded ammo and have been reloading since 1976.
To be fair this issue was happening with Hornady Black, Hornady Match, and Hornady Precision Hunter, and Federal Gold Medal Match.. and I wouldn’t cal any go that bad ammunition. The issue was resolved. It was a timing issue, being that the bolt was unlocking and trying to extract the case prior to it being depressurizing in the chamber. Adding the JP high pressure bolt along with a heavier buffer and Springco orange buffer spring. After tuning the adjustable gas block in tandem with these things the issue ceased. This is a common issue when shooting AR10/LR308 firearms chambered in either 308 or 6.5 Creedmore. Many forums about it, and even Hornady writing about timing being an issue with semi auto full power cartridge rifles, stating that overpressure signs will be exhibited.
@@SabertoothDefenseSystems Seems to me you went well over what was needed for the fix when the adjustable gas block would fix the problem.
I build and sell AR 10 uppers in WSM magnum chamberings and have a wildcat cartridge AR 10 that is a 375-300 WSM magnum with powder charge of 67 grains of H 4831 with a 300-grain bullet so never have I had to do as much as you to solve an AR problem because the Rainer adjustable gas block once set these large WSM cartridges cycle just fine.
My AR 10 uppers made and sold in 7mm WSM --- 300 WSM --- 325 WSM the pressure is extreme comparing to a 308.
If you would like to watch other people's videos of firing AR 10s in 6.5 WSM - 300 WSM -- 458 WSM just look them up on UA-cam.
AR 10s in WSM chamberings are little known but allot of people have them.
Doing an AR 10 in a WSM cartridge is a very advanced person builder of ARs to make these work, just finding the WSM magnum bolt is near impossible.
Form watching AR videos it really comes down to how much hands-on experience a person has with AR rifles to find the fix then fastest and cheapest solution.
6.5creed needs a hp bolt and firing pin.
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Put the original cam pin back in and use better quality ammunition.
Issue was resolved. See other videos to see what fixed it. Nothing to do with cam pin