That ain't no shit , just check on multiple ones though cause even from factory they don't get it correct sometimes, I did this years ago had a close call of disasters, after breaking a rocker arm bolt on my tractor.
LukePlays np. thanks for the comment. I've used this trick with great success over the years. i hope this helps out. feel free to share this vid on facebook and maybe it can help someone else out.
This doesn't take in to account stiction. As you edge closer and closer to the correct torque, getting the fastener to begin moving again requires you to overcome the existing stiction. If you did up the fastener correctly, rather than little by little, it would take less torque to get the marks lined up. Having said that, I can see there is definitely some value to doing this too.
Thank you my car doesnt have torque specs listed anywhere for anything and there is no service manual sold by anybody and I called 3 mazda dealerships and 2 toyota dealerships and they couldn't tell me the torque specs for the chassis so its like how the f**k are they doing this service or anything else that requires a bolt to be removed when they don't even know the torque specs for anything on my car so I've been tightening everything by feel (most things just left where they're already at) up to this point... Even though everything is EXTREMELY well built and easy to work on I should have never bought a scion ia...
Thats a shame. As long as you are sure it's been tightened properly before, this trick can be useful. Im glad this can help you. Good luck with your projects
I guess this is better than not torquing at all... but I question how accurate it is considering friction on old bolts, wet vs dry, and other variables. I've removed parts before that were factory and of course some bolts that should be the same spec as others can require different forces to remove. I would think these things effect how accurate your reading is going to be, not to mention whether the previous mechanic used the right spec or not. All that aside, interesting little cheat / I like it. Haven't considered adding bike specs to Torque Spec App yet. If I did, what would I do first? ie. most worked on?
Torque Right What The Torque great question. And you are correct. Variables like wet, dry, and rust can alter your torque spec per bolt. Best thing to do is to ensure all bolts are the same condition before torquing them. As in cleaning off loctite or soaking them in wd-40 to remove rust. This is something you will almost never have to do but something to keep in mind when the time arrives. My motorcycles have never been in a shop and every bolt on them has been tightened by the factory or by me last. And if you don't know if they were torqued down properly before, and it is safe to ride and nothing is falling apart, assume it is set to spec. (Don't fix what isn't broken mentality) as far as which torque specs are common to keep track of, i find these to be the most important for my bikes: rear axle nut, front axle nut, rear sprocket nuts, front sprocket nuts, oil drain bolt, front and rear brake caliper bolts, front fork axle pinch bolts, top yoke pinch bolts, and bottom yoke pinch bolts. Depending on your regular maintenance, you may find other ones to be priority. I hope this helps. Thanks for your comment. I hope the rest of my videos can help you out as well. Cheers
XD Mentioning TTY bolts is a great addition to this video. However; I would like to assume that if people must resort a trick like this to retighten something, they probably aren't dealing with a TTY bolt. But people have suprised me in the past.
Hey I lost my old account but thanks ! JAY KAY I AM A RANDOM GUY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH THAT SHIT WAS FUNNNNNNAAAYYYYYYYYY
It's only for people that have no other way to get or find their proper torque spec. Just a last ditch effort to secure a fastener. Plus I've been doing this for over a decade on cars and motorcycles with absolutely zero issues. Can't argue with results
Excellent information but what if the bolt or nut has not been torqued up correctly from the manufacturer or previous service man before you conduct your test so that would mean that you determined the incorrect re-torque for that bolt or nut? excellent test that's for sure but providing that the bolt or nut has already been tightened to specifications prior to your test? I am confused. Can you explain thanks.
Thetrucky69 you are exactly right. In my case, my bike has never seen a dealership or a mechanic so all the nuts and bolts are properly torqued. And you should always consult your service manual for the correct specification. But in the case you can't get such information, you must know as much about the history of the bike as possible to see what work has been performed so you know which bolts might have been improperly torqued. There have been rare cases that i have done this trick and haven't felt comfortable with the force required to line up the lines and stopped short. For the most part however, if the bolt has been holding something in place for quite a long time, it is most likely fine to torque it down this way. I absolutely do not recommend this method when it comes to engine internals such as cams and head bolts. This is made to be a last ditch effort in the event you absolutely can't get a proper torque.
The Motorcycle Boss I don't work on motorbikes I repair lawn mowers and I have all of the manuals with all the torque specs but your test can be done for any engine that's for sure. Your reply makes sense and your test will definitely come in handy thanks 👍🔧🔩
I wouldn't hire a mechanic in the first place who "couldn't find" the service manual. On some bikes, such as the Moto Guzzi V7 II, these reference/indicator marks come with the bike, and are there to make it easy to keep an eye on key fasteners that may loosen. One other observation. Torque wrenches are gauges, and are not supposed to be used as a wrench to break/loosen fasteners. Also, it's hard for me to understand why anybody, apart from Harley owners, would be talking about foot pounds (or more properly pounds-foot) instead of Newton meters. For most bikes today, torque values are given in Nm, and the Imperial/American equivalent is a direct transposition from Nm and consequently a weird, fussy number.
MG V7II hey thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear you weren't very happy with this video. let me see if i can clear some things up tho. Working on numberous bikes through the years, there will be a time or two where any mechanic will not be able to access a service manual. Ask any tech and they will tell you the same thing. You learn to stop depending on service manuals and figure things out yourself. Which is where i found this trick valuable. the Guzzi V7 has indicators on key fasteners but not all bikes come with those indicators. Next was you thought i used a torque wrench to loosen this nut - you are correct that you shouldn't; and i didn't. the torque wrench was strictly used to tighten the nut. the wrench used to loosen it was Kobalt 3/8 ratchet item #85870. You stated that the correct way of saying ft-lbs is "pounds-feet" and you are correct about that. i am very aware that i say it incorrectly but that is a personal preference and doesn't affect my torque specs. Me using ft-lbs instead of newton-meters is a personal choice. i have a torque wrench that measures in newton-meters as well but i prefer to use ft-lbs which yet again, doesn't affect my torque specs. it is simply a preferred measurement i like to use. And you are incorrect about saying that most bikes' torque values are given in newton-meters. reason why is because service manuals give different torque measurements for the same fasteners (ft-lbs, newton-meters, in-lbs, etc.) i hope this clears things up for you and i hope to hear from you in my future videos.
Not all bike manuals show the specs for one thing and also if you re-watch the video he used a ratchet to loosen the bolt not the torque wrench as you suggested Mr. Know-it-all....
Thanks! Just be sure to only use this trick if you are confident that it was tightened properly before you removed the bolt. Also, friction can increase over time due to grime and corrosion so use your best judgement on when you think you should stop. Ride safe! I look forward to hearing from you in future videos!
Try to find your service manual online for free or look at forums online for people performing the same job. You may come across the torque spec. If it doesnt come in your package, use this trick but remember to mark the bolt and nut against the strut, cowling, or frame in case your style of bike has a strut mount that has a removable bolt.
Thanks! I hope this helps. Just be sure the bolt or nut you apply this trick to was properly torque down to begin with. I really only use this as a last resort
No problem make sure you only use this trick if you are certain the bolt was properly torqued before you get to it. Or if you have no other option. Good luck. Glad i could help
Rob H i understand where you are coming from. However, many people that watch my videos have limited knowledge about mechanics and are most likely just trying to get by with their limited tools. Many people dont have the funds to spend on an expensive torque wrench they believe they will only use once. So this is only for those "in a pinch" moments. This is not a complete replacement for using a proper torque wrench. Only for those situations where you cant get a torque wrench on a bolt for some reason, don't have a service manual to get the proper torque, or dont have the funds for a torque wrench. Your concern has already been brought up and i have already properly addressed it in a previous comment.
You can make your torque wrench for 5 dollars: ua-cam.com/video/XYO4dolyKUk/v-deo.html I had a dynamometer at home so it cost me 0. The luggage scaler that i bought for 4 dollar works fine too. The video is not in english but it is a basic concept and very accurate. You can make a video for it, if you feel like it. It might be useful for people who didn't know. You can test if your method is accurate, too. I wish i could find my bike's user manual to get torque values but no luck.
Common sense dictates to already take that into account. I've used this trick a million times and there have been a number of instances that I stopped short because of not feeling right about the amount of torque
Invaluable trick for getting really close to prescribed torque. Thank you, im keeping this forever.
Glad you like it. I hope it helps youbone day. Feel free to check out my other videos. Hopefully you may find something valuable there too
it only works if the bolt was torqued properly in the first place.
3dmixer the answer to your comment has already been addressed in previous comments.
ok. I wasn't reading the comments.
That ain't no shit , just check on multiple ones though cause even from factory they don't get it correct sometimes, I did this years ago had a close call of disasters, after breaking a rocker arm bolt on my tractor.
Not all manuals show the Torque specs so this was great. Thanks
No problem. It's just something I noticed I was doing for years. Thought it would've made a good tip.
Should back off for each torque, so your not fighting friction. That will get you much closer.
Had a drink before I tried this, and ended up seeing 4 marks not 2. Lol
Nice idea!.
Alternatively use a small strip of duct tape, cut it with a razor blade when applied and you will have a perfect line
I knew about marking it, but never thought about this. Thank you sir!
Good to know. Fortunately I have torque specs for my bike, but I like to know hacks like this anyway.
Good job
Thanks for the tip! i'll have to remember that when i'm in my power train and chassis class.
LukePlays np. thanks for the comment. I've used this trick with great success over the years. i hope this helps out. feel free to share this vid on facebook and maybe it can help someone else out.
Yeah!
Won’t work if it is a one use torque to yield bolt or if the bolt/nut is separate from thing your attaching to it,
Excellent
Been doing my head in trying to know correct setting
This doesn't take in to account stiction. As you edge closer and closer to the correct torque, getting the fastener to begin moving again requires you to overcome the existing stiction. If you did up the fastener correctly, rather than little by little, it would take less torque to get the marks lined up. Having said that, I can see there is definitely some value to doing this too.
Yes. This should only be used as an absolute last resort.
Good stuff, now you tell me after I loosened them! But now I know, thanks.
great job its very helpfull when a torque wrench does not have nm like shows in car manual i have
Thank you my car doesnt have torque specs listed anywhere for anything and there is no service manual sold by anybody and I called 3 mazda dealerships and 2 toyota dealerships and they couldn't tell me the torque specs for the chassis so its like how the f**k are they doing this service or anything else that requires a bolt to be removed when they don't even know the torque specs for anything on my car so I've been tightening everything by feel (most things just left where they're already at) up to this point... Even though everything is EXTREMELY well built and easy to work on I should have never bought a scion ia...
Thats a shame. As long as you are sure it's been tightened properly before, this trick can be useful. Im glad this can help you. Good luck with your projects
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you!
Glad I could help!
Assuming it was torqued properly from the start.
the same dyno i used previously is showing virtually no change in torque after trick
Awesome. As long as it was originally torqued down properly, it should be a near fool-proof way to do it.
thanks, i really need this on my scooter haha
No problem. Thanks for posting!
I guess this is better than not torquing at all... but I question how accurate it is considering friction on old bolts, wet vs dry, and other variables. I've removed parts before that were factory and of course some bolts that should be the same spec as others can require different forces to remove. I would think these things effect how accurate your reading is going to be, not to mention whether the previous mechanic used the right spec or not. All that aside, interesting little cheat / I like it.
Haven't considered adding bike specs to Torque Spec App yet. If I did, what would I do first? ie. most worked on?
Torque Right What The Torque great question. And you are correct. Variables like wet, dry, and rust can alter your torque spec per bolt. Best thing to do is to ensure all bolts are the same condition before torquing them. As in cleaning off loctite or soaking them in wd-40 to remove rust. This is something you will almost never have to do but something to keep in mind when the time arrives. My motorcycles have never been in a shop and every bolt on them has been tightened by the factory or by me last. And if you don't know if they were torqued down properly before, and it is safe to ride and nothing is falling apart, assume it is set to spec. (Don't fix what isn't broken mentality) as far as which torque specs are common to keep track of, i find these to be the most important for my bikes: rear axle nut, front axle nut, rear sprocket nuts, front sprocket nuts, oil drain bolt, front and rear brake caliper bolts, front fork axle pinch bolts, top yoke pinch bolts, and bottom yoke pinch bolts. Depending on your regular maintenance, you may find other ones to be priority. I hope this helps. Thanks for your comment. I hope the rest of my videos can help you out as well. Cheers
Good tips!Thanks for sharing and taking the time to do the video!
No problem and thank you. As long as you're pretty sure that the bolt or nut was properly torqued down before, this works like a charm
Unless you have torque to yield tty bolts. Then you must haunt progress until order arrives. That is if it's not a gm discontinued part😵💫
Your comment haunts the video
XD Mentioning TTY bolts is a great addition to this video. However; I would like to assume that if people must resort a trick like this to retighten something, they probably aren't dealing with a TTY bolt. But people have suprised me in the past.
That’s if it was torqued properly to begin with.
REALLY COOL, THANK YOU for sharing, john
No problem. I hope it helps you. Good luck with your projects
Freaking genius.. thank you so much. You the man.
Thanks! Just be certain that the bolts or nuts have been properly tightened beforehand.
That’s some strong drink ingenuity
XD Yes.
super clever! thanks for posting!
Hey I lost my old account but thanks !
JAY KAY I AM A RANDOM GUY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA HAHA HAHA HAHA HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH THAT SHIT WAS FUNNNNNNAAAYYYYYYYYY
Excellent. Well done. Takes the guess work out.
Thanks! However; it only works assuming it was properly torqued in the first place. But a nice trick to have nonetheless
Sprocket and nut may be aligned… but the bolt could be in a different position. Bad advice.
It's only for people that have no other way to get or find their proper torque spec. Just a last ditch effort to secure a fastener. Plus I've been doing this for over a decade on cars and motorcycles with absolutely zero issues. Can't argue with results
Excellent information but what if the bolt or nut has not been torqued up correctly from the manufacturer or previous service man before you conduct your test so that would mean that you determined the incorrect re-torque for that bolt or nut? excellent test that's for sure but providing that the bolt or nut has already been tightened to specifications prior to your test? I am confused. Can you explain thanks.
Thetrucky69 you are exactly right. In my case, my bike has never seen a dealership or a mechanic so all the nuts and bolts are properly torqued. And you should always consult your service manual for the correct specification. But in the case you can't get such information, you must know as much about the history of the bike as possible to see what work has been performed so you know which bolts might have been improperly torqued. There have been rare cases that i have done this trick and haven't felt comfortable with the force required to line up the lines and stopped short. For the most part however, if the bolt has been holding something in place for quite a long time, it is most likely fine to torque it down this way. I absolutely do not recommend this method when it comes to engine internals such as cams and head bolts. This is made to be a last ditch effort in the event you absolutely can't get a proper torque.
The Motorcycle Boss I don't work on motorbikes I repair lawn mowers and I have all of the manuals with all the torque specs but your test can be done for any engine that's for sure. Your reply makes sense and your test will definitely come in handy thanks 👍🔧🔩
@@Thetrucky69 9
@@samwittstruck.6685 9 what?
I wouldn't hire a mechanic in the first place who "couldn't find" the service manual. On some bikes, such as the Moto Guzzi V7 II, these reference/indicator marks come with the bike, and are there to make it easy to keep an eye on key fasteners that may loosen. One other observation. Torque wrenches are gauges, and are not supposed to be used as a wrench to break/loosen fasteners. Also, it's hard for me to understand why anybody, apart from Harley owners, would be talking about foot pounds (or more properly pounds-foot) instead of Newton meters. For most bikes today, torque values are given in Nm, and the Imperial/American equivalent is a direct transposition from Nm and consequently a weird, fussy number.
MG V7II hey thanks for the comment. Sorry to hear you weren't very happy with this video. let me see if i can clear some things up tho. Working on numberous bikes through the years, there will be a time or two where any mechanic will not be able to access a service manual. Ask any tech and they will tell you the same thing. You learn to stop depending on service manuals and figure things out yourself. Which is where i found this trick valuable. the Guzzi V7 has indicators on key fasteners but not all bikes come with those indicators. Next was you thought i used a torque wrench to loosen this nut - you are correct that you shouldn't; and i didn't. the torque wrench was strictly used to tighten the nut. the wrench used to loosen it was Kobalt 3/8 ratchet item #85870. You stated that the correct way of saying ft-lbs is "pounds-feet" and you are correct about that. i am very aware that i say it incorrectly but that is a personal preference and doesn't affect my torque specs. Me using ft-lbs instead of newton-meters is a personal choice. i have a torque wrench that measures in newton-meters as well but i prefer to use ft-lbs which yet again, doesn't affect my torque specs. it is simply a preferred measurement i like to use. And you are incorrect about saying that most bikes' torque values are given in newton-meters. reason why is because service manuals give different torque measurements for the same fasteners (ft-lbs, newton-meters, in-lbs, etc.) i hope this clears things up for you and i hope to hear from you in my future videos.
Not all bike manuals show the specs for one thing and also if you re-watch the video he used a ratchet to loosen the bolt not the torque wrench as you suggested Mr. Know-it-all....
I would like to change the shocks on my harley davidson roadster. Will this trick can help me install the new shocks? Thanks!
Assuming that they are properly tightened in the first place, it's a great place to start.
This is genius!
Thanks! Just be sure to only use this trick if you are confident that it was tightened properly before you removed the bolt. Also, friction can increase over time due to grime and corrosion so use your best judgement on when you think you should stop. Ride safe! I look forward to hearing from you in future videos!
Very good, good teaching.
Thank you very much. I do my best to put forward what I can to help people out
Wonderful video.
Thanks! I'm glad it was helpful!
Great stuff thanks
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks a lot!
Great idea
Thanks! Glad you like it. Just be sure it was tightened properly to begin with. Don't want to start with bad data.
Can't find the specs for my strut im replacing tomorrow. 2010 es350, will theu most likely come in the packaging?
Try to find your service manual online for free or look at forums online for people performing the same job. You may come across the torque spec. If it doesnt come in your package, use this trick but remember to mark the bolt and nut against the strut, cowling, or frame in case your style of bike has a strut mount that has a removable bolt.
hi no they dont come with instructions lol
@@TheMotorcycleBoss hi i would not trust a forum i have struts to do tomorrow thanks for this excellent idea
Thanks for the Info.This is what I thought of to and you Confermed it.
Thank you.
You're welcome! No problem. Glad to be of service!
Good tip
You are the man
Thanks! I hope this helps. Just be sure the bolt or nut you apply this trick to was properly torque down to begin with. I really only use this as a last resort
really good idea thanks
No problem make sure you only use this trick if you are certain the bolt was properly torqued before you get to it. Or if you have no other option. Good luck. Glad i could help
Assumes the guy before set it correctly.
Just torque to specs......who knows who put it on before. That's the whole point of owning a torque wrench
Rob H i understand where you are coming from. However, many people that watch my videos have limited knowledge about mechanics and are most likely just trying to get by with their limited tools. Many people dont have the funds to spend on an expensive torque wrench they believe they will only use once. So this is only for those "in a pinch" moments. This is not a complete replacement for using a proper torque wrench. Only for those situations where you cant get a torque wrench on a bolt for some reason, don't have a service manual to get the proper torque, or dont have the funds for a torque wrench. Your concern has already been brought up and i have already properly addressed it in a previous comment.
Read the title!
Quit contaminating good crown with all that foofoo juice
Seems like you didn't notice the 90 proof peppermint schnappes I added to it. Foofoo.... lol.
You can make your torque wrench for 5 dollars: ua-cam.com/video/XYO4dolyKUk/v-deo.html I had a dynamometer at home so it cost me 0. The luggage scaler that i bought for 4 dollar works fine too. The video is not in english but it is a basic concept and very accurate.
You can make a video for it, if you feel like it. It might be useful for people who didn't know.
You can test if your method is accurate, too. I wish i could find my bike's user manual to get torque values but no luck.
I saw your vid and your method was genius.
F#cking excellant video mate !!!!!
Thanks! I hope it was helpful. Thanks for taking the time to let me know what you thought. Cheers!
interesting idea...
Thanks sir.
Thanks you
You're welcome, jerk.
No problem.
Alcoholic
Worthless tip if the nuts have been over or undertightened before being marked. Think about it...
Common sense dictates to already take that into account. I've used this trick a million times and there have been a number of instances that I stopped short because of not feeling right about the amount of torque
You got lucky a million times you mean. Totally misleading video
No. Just not an idiot
trucaso amigaso!! jijijiji
Thanks
No problem. I hope this helps you one day
Go up by half pounds and ya could of made the video twice as long........źzzzzzzzzzzzzz
Ingat.... Ada allah....
Itulah mengapa nama saya bukanlah "dewa sepeda motor" -penerjemah Google