Butt Welding Automotive Patch Panels - Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- This video demonstrates how to butt weld automotive rust repair patch panels from start to finish.
**Eastwood's panel prep tool: • How To Achieve Perfect...
/ @lakesideautobody
😟 lots of filler 😔
I painted this car in '92 - had lots of dents and rust - 25 years later after driving it regularly this is what it looked like. ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html Professional body men use filler every day across the nation - don't listen to stuff that's said on TV or the internet - they want to make you believe they are more than what they are - it will prevent you from getting good at body work - really.
That’s not really a true butt weld. The big disadvantage is you can’t hammer & dolly that weld seam to take care of any shrinkage problems that may occur.
Who cares about a hammer and dolly when bondo is applied by the shovel load.. 😂
After thirty years of welding for a living I learned guys on UA-cam know more about welding than professional welders.
some guys on UA-cam are the best of the best(and have to ability to create content). guys on youtube is a wildly open window tho :)
A buddy told me he was butt welding and I said he should go to church. Now, I know what he meant.
What happens at church, stays at church....
You silly
that made me laugh I'm usually a grumpy bastard and or rude old bastard "ROB"
Oh no you were right with your first thought!
Good video. I am attempting to repair rot on my Ford van bought a replacement panel but I have never welded I will have to do similar make a cut remove some of rear panel can you tell me what kind of welder to use and any pointers. I prefer to do it properly than pop rivets as I did when I was younger. Worth trying to mimic you
Thanks Curt. This is how easy it should be to weld after you set up your welder - ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html As for what type of welder - that depends on the $ you have. You can't ever go wrong with a 110v Miller MIG welder - the cheapest MIG they have will work great. If you don't have the $ for that, I suggest this one - ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html It's all I use right now and it welds great - much like the Miller. Getting repair parts will be impossible but I don't see it breaking down - it's built pretty well :)
I wouldn't call that a butt weld first of all, a butt weld is meant to have a gap the thickness of your mig wire and stitch the gap randomly as to not introduce too much heat and warp the panel. For a patch that long it should take no more than a tablespoon of body filler. As a bodyman for 45yrs I still take pride in my work and would never hack up a job the way I saw you do it.
I don't agree with butt welding and grinding the welds flat. How do you justify the integrity of the weld and adjacent metal after that process. There will be paper thin welds, sheet metal, and tiny pit holes very near the surface. Today's metal is literally 6 hairs thick (.030"). In body shops in Michigan you have to be able to fix this type of damage quickly. Are you saying you worked in a shop and fixed this type of damage butt welding it?
ua-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/v-deo.html
Agree with Jon Rothenbusch. If you know how to grind and have the right tools to do so the metal won't be paper thin. However it will take a lot longer!
I agree and that patch job is just going to crack and fall back out in a couple years if it even makes it that long. Also who touches the mig welder to the work when they are welding? They don't do that in a high school welding class...let alone a professional doing it. The whole thing screams of a cheap hackjob and what some hillbilly would do to his Chevy truck in the backyard.
Red seal welder here - that’s not right, the welding part. A butt weld is two pieces butted together, by default there is no gap. You can specify a gap but a gap is an added instruction. You are right that the thickness of your wire/stick/etc is supposed to match your gap distance. But that’s only recommended for metal above 1/8” in thickness, not below. The bigger the gap, the more heat is added, and you don’t want that with sheet metal, warps too much. I’m sure you’ve made it work by tacking all around but still, less gap the better
Benau nya ko tak reti buat..
I'm not a body work guy and I don't think this guy is either, lines aren't straight and looks muddy to me.
ua-cam.com/video/xbzGX4hW9qo/v-deo.html
What an absolute dogs breakfast. He put that much bog in there he should be decorating cakes
I think after sanding the most filler you could find is probably 1/8". Don't ever be afraid to use filler - if you are and you shy away from it, it will hold you back from becoming the best body man you can be. If you can't get filler straight - you wont have a job for long - end of story. Remember every dealership and private shop uses filler on nearly every job. You don't know that because they apply it correctly. It will never crack, fall out, etc. - never - if applied right.
im in the middle of doing this on my car. I fixed the inner rocker and now im about to start on the outer like youre doing. Im glad i found this video to help me!
Glad you could use the info - you can lap weld the seam or butt weld it - to me it makes no difference - if it's going to rust again it will start at the bottom where the salt water and debris sits - here's one on lap welding it - ua-cam.com/video/fSTkMkPryPQ/v-deo.html
Big no no welding with no sleeves
Why do you body filler the whole patch and not just the area where you welded? I'm about to try to replace the real quarter panels on my '97 jeep. I bought the panels and they are already painted/primed. Do you only body filler the whole piece if it's bare metal (vs what you ground off of a prefab primed panel)? Thanks
Because usually the patch is not perfect and there are small waves, dips or whatever here and there. Might as well just get it all at once and be done. It is possible to just do what you're saying but filler is so cheap that you actually save time and get it straighter doing this. Hope that helps a bit :)
This is something I want to be able to do. I've only thicker metals with my everlast welder but body panels would be cool.
On the panel you welded why not glue it ? Glue is better for rust protection. The back of the panel that got welded if it is bare meter it should have been painted!
Nice truck but it's not a butt weld either; more of a modified lap seam.
With respect, the butt welding fad on the internet is not the answer - I've been trying to find the perfect solution for 40+ years - there is none. I use a combination of both lap and butt on almost every patch but I would never just butt two pieces of metal up, weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it for many reasons but here are two: ua-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/v-deo.html - ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html
Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and voila paper thin metal and welds. Both methods work well if done properly so in the end it’s what works for you.. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: ua-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/v-deo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap - weld solid - no moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside too. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
This is how you should not repair a door!
This is just the beginning of how long the repairs last that you'll find on this channel. ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html Also check out this video for the truth on Butt vs Lap - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html - Jerry
Great tip on making the 45 degree “valley”! Makes a ton of sense!
Thanks - today's sheet metal is too thin to butt weld and grind flush. If you prefer butt, I really believe this is the way to go :)
Rasp, I can never find mine when it comes to smoothing up
Cool giving eastwood a shout out. You and them are my go to when i am looking up videos
Thanks - I know they're not going to give me one though :)
@@LakesideAutobody I work at Eastwood and just came across your channel. I sent your info to the main guy.
I will stay on top of this. I thought the welding class there and when the guy that designed that tool that you're talkin about I was raving mad about it it was awesome and she had Goose pimples at 2 is so needed
@@bobgreen3116 I hope you set him up his videos are awesome and he always replies to questions.
@@Jayreganmusic I am doing my best. We need to have him use some Eastwood tools etc. He is a very good guy!!
My old classic has the paint cracking where the putty has cracked beneath it. Any way to stop stress cracks with putty, or was it just shoddy work by an unskilled person? Or does putty always eventually just crack over time?
Body filler should never crack over time. Sometimes instead of using filler, a body man will use a ton of primer surfacer or lacquer putty to help get a panel straight. Your supposed to get it straight with just filler but that is sometimes hard to do. Anyway if you cheat with thick primer or putty it can shrink and form cracks. Not sure if that is exactly what's going on with your car but..... Any way, there's really no way to stop the cracks except to remove the old filler and do it right the next time around. Ask more ?s if that didn't help.
You make it look so easy! great inspiration. Thank You.
You're welcome
Thank you, I’m trying to bring back my grandfathers 68 f100 and I’m a newb with welding and body work. Your videos are helping a lot with info and tips
Thanks - that makes my day. Sounds like a good project - something you can really put your heart into. Let me know how it goes - Jerry
Friday night auto body and some bottom shelf bourbon. 🇺🇲👍🥃
When I was young my job was pushing the two pieces together with a screwdriver while my old timer friend brazed or soldered the panels. Then I had to cool it down with a wet shop rag.. Good times!
We always put a thin coat of short strand fiberglass on first to help seal the joint and then put plastic filler on top. Great video!
Sounds like fun. The short strand fiberglass is a good suggestion.
I have a tool for putting a step in for lap joint. I would like to avoid having that 45° bend sticking inside door. But your bend will reduce warpage.
The step can work too - thanks for the input Frank - enjoy the week :)
A word of caution to the newbees with an air file. They are fantastic tools for getting a flat panel but if you let your pinky wander down between the body of the file and the clamp for the paper, it will hammer your fingernail 35 times before you can move it or stop the file.
Great tip Stanley :)
5 ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks for your great video’s I’ve been a mechanic for 25 years and have avoided my own cars body work but your videos have given me the inspiration to try it myself thank you
Just like mechanics, you get better and better with experience - keep at it - I'll keep putting the vids up there's a lot more basic stuff to cover.
Same here!!
I'm getting a head start I guess it's not really bodywork but I have an old truck with rusted out hood hinge mounts I'm going to cut out and replace
Great job like always really enjoyed watching you............ I'm currently taking the skin off one door to put on another by watching you I kept having really good results with my body work thanks and keepem coming!
Great - practice makes perfect (almost) :) Glad the videos help you out - Jerry
Question. Ive been dealing with a local restoration shop, and he told me under no circumstances do they recommend doing the 45* the lips on butt welds. His logic was that it leaves a slight opening in the V channel on the backside where moisture can get trapped in, and it has the potential to create rust and ghost lines, since you generally cant get on the backside to seal it up/knock down the lip. He also said its harder to manipulate the metal due to the difference in thickness along the channel line.
Whats your take on this? Is it something you've ever seen or had issues with? Im curious if its as big a deal as he made it out to be.
People will say a lot of things if they don't use that specific process in their shop. The facts are is that every method works well if done in a way that makes it work. Body shops should be proficient at all methods in case the customer wants it done in a specific way. There is no truth in the, "slight opening idea" - none at all. Here's some info that may help you make your own decision on whats the best method for you - watch all of them very closely and it will make sense to you - See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html *** For longevity of this type of repair see: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
Never used this method myself, usually tig or oxy weld the panels together. however the difference is this takes about a third the time that it would take me to do it. mine ends up like a new panel like from factory but there is very few customers who could afford to do that to all the parts of a car in a restoration. this is a much more efficient use of labour and ultimately still will last a very long time. Ghost lines will occur more due to lack of time waiting for the shrinkage of fillers and primers to occur before paint not so much the valley being here. i have actually never seen this method although i can 100% see benefits this would have over conventional butt welding with a mig, and flaws.
This video came just in time! Fixing to do a cab corner and going to try the 45 degree trick. That is so helpful. Thank you for all the info and great videos!
You're welcome. You can use either method 45 (butt) or lap weld you patches. What ever is easiest for you. Both methods hold up well - moisture sits at the bottom not up where you welded. Good luck on you project. Here's one that was lap welded - ua-cam.com/video/fSTkMkPryPQ/v-deo.html
Beautiful work Jerry. You aren't a auto body man, you are an artist! Very inspiring!
Thanks Bluesman - I appreciate the support. Always good to hear from you :)
Apa pulak artis..kalau artis xde nya ler dia nak welding ..baik dia main lain..
I just noticed you replied to my comment, once i clicked on the comment of yours i read it, than it was no longer there. Weird.
I forgot what the comment was but I'll look for it in "Held for Review" maybe repost it :)
Bog magician
Not a butt weld.
No - you're right. It just holds up a little better under all driving conditions and all weather driving conditions. Manufacturers don't butt weld anything... for a good reason ✌
Hey new subscriber. Yes like the way that 45 degree butt welds together. Any new techniques to make a job better and easier fit is best especially when metal panels are thin. Excellent video
Thanks - glad you liked it :)
Isn't it best to use epoxy primer such as DP-74 before putting the filler on? To prevent rust from bubbling the filler up.
It is not necessary as the paint protects everything under it. That's an internet/magazine wives tale thing. Body shops put filler over properly prepared metal. Here's a good video on the topic too - ua-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/v-deo.html
I know my job is not going to go this smoothly. But this is very educational, i like it.
Good job man,Have done many of them w/door on car !
What kind of filler u using most I've see are pink once u ad the hardner yours is green.. with the harder
It's Auto Body Master light weight body filler - right around 20/gal - the hardener is dark blue and the filler is light grey. Really makes no difference to me what brand I use as long as it's around 20/gal. Happy Holidays Steve :)
as a welder by trade, I would always work from the center out to minimize warp...
Good thinking - thanks for the information Fergus M - have a good week :)
Trying to learn the best way to put a cab corner on my 1996 chevy silverado regular cab
The best/simplest way this to use either of these methods - ua-cam.com/video/I8VVlYPIigA/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/wRl1QfkrBeY/v-deo.html Here's the follow up video after 3 winters on salted roads - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
Thanks I appreciate it
I really enjoy ur video's. Thank you.
You're welcome - glad you like them
why arent you trying to flat it out bywelding without filler ? does it has chance to crack in time
This video explains why: ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html
Great job!! New subscriber here, keep on posting videos. Im learning a lot, thank you!!
Thanks - I'll keep them coming
how do you keep from blowing through the panel while using the mig. what is the welder and settings?
If you blow through there is usually two cures. 1) turn the heat setting down (mine is usually on 1 or 2) - there are 4 settings. 2) shorten the time on trigger - In other words just a very short squeeze of the trigger - enough to get a weld but not burn through. Ask again if that didn't help.
Does penetration have to come past the backside of the metal completely or can it be leveled with the backside? A lot of videos I’ve watched say it should look the same on the backside as the top but I can’t get that. I can only get completely flush
No. Not a lot of auto body videos on YT are exactly what happens in a real body shop. If you want to really know the exact truth on anything in body work, the best thing to do is ask someone who worked in a shop for years and did actual collision work. Folks in a body shop don't worry one bit about stuff like that :)
@@LakesideAutobody Sweet I have one more question. On the backside the weld in some spots are whitish. Would this come from using flux core wire or from me not cleaning the metal well enough?
I didnt see any seam sealer used on the welds ? did you use that prior to the body filler or not?
No - it's not a good idea to use seam sealer under filler. Although I don't have any solid proof that it's bad - just never saw it done in a body shop. Something that would work though would be fiberglass reinforced filler which is water proof and would act like a seam sealer.
I love ❤️ doing bodywork … you sir continue to inspire me . No nonsense , getter done , craftsman !!
I appreciate the support my friend - glad to hear you love doing bodywork - me too :)
I like it…👍🏻
the only skill he has is slapping on the filler
The biggest problem with new employees in a body shop is they can't get filler straight! They play with it for hours, make no money, and end up leaving.
I like that, I hate grinding welds.
You are actually not supposed to grind welds - TV, magazines, internet are giving the wrong info. Lap weld the patch, grind welds lightly and knock down the seam - no more than 1/16 - 1/8", fill - see this video - ua-cam.com/video/JIIonJOVro4/v-deo.html
After tac weld, do you weld all the way through even ?
You can - One guy I worked for made us weld solid all the way but we always cheated and never had return work. I think it does well both ways because when you tap the seam down, the filler acts as a buffer between the seam and the finish. That's how they did sail panels in the factory - the roof was connected in a valley to the quarter and lead or filler was used just like this process. Have a good weekend Oscar :)
Beautiful job
Nice job! Just learning to weld and that 45 degree valley is a great tip.
Thanks 👍- stick with it - here's what my first boss told me when I said I never used a MIG - ua-cam.com/video/1BYqLM_mY1s/v-deo.html
Bruhda, thanks for making this video. Im actually in this same situation with my old square body, the truck has no rust except the bottom of the doors. Previous owner was vigilant with rust prevention here in Ohio. But ya. Thanks man.
You're welcome - here's a playlist on the square body you might be interested in - ua-cam.com/play/PLOP9eoG14-I8mto72e0di1Q_URvGUlYfQ.html
Only question I have . When you use the clanging tool . Say it’s a 1/4 inch flange . Do you need to add a 1/2 inch back on to new piece ?
If the flange on one panel is 1/2 inch then, yes, you'll have to have an extra 1/2" on the other (to overlap).
Great video as always 👍🏻
No disrespect but if you just cover over the rusty inner door frame with a new section the rust is still there ... butt welding is the only method to success ... plus there is no need to cut the fold... once it is in folded position there is no resistance to flatten out. Plus where is your wire wheel to dress up panels and zinc weld through spray..?? Without anti rust conditioning it will only last two winters and show rust bubbles in the paint...!
With respect, lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for spots that can’t be knocked down like edges) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up, weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html ***
ua-cam.com/video/MfKlNQF-o4I/v-deo.html ***
ua-cam.com/video/e9bjZ_UxtJg/v-deo.html
Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper thin metal and welds. Lap and Butt methods can work well if done properly so in the end it’s what works for you.. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: ua-cam.com/video/36zkc9UQaTs/v-deo.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside also. Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
fuck am I glad I don't have to do rust repair anymore
How do you keep the inside of the door panel from rusting from the inside out with no paint over the bare metal? I always wondered that when watching body repair videos. Thanks for the video!
You're welcome - here's the best way to prevent rust on any car. Even new panels have nothing coating the pinch welds where metal is sandwiched together. You have to have an undercoating that can penetrate and creep to coat everything that can't get coated with paint or undercoat. ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
Its pronounced 'Ami' not 'Ami'.
Is there a way I can hear someone say that word on the internet?
It must be primer first b4 putty dear.
If you got caught spraying primer before filler you'd get fired in the old days. It was always filler on bare metal - we all would cheat though and sometimes put filler over our primer but don't get caught 😊 Here's a video on that - ua-cam.com/video/wVhQLqPAGVU/v-deo.html
Thanks, I just learned something !
You're welcome :)
If you are going to bend down a 45deg. Lip you could have used 3M adhesive and glued the whole panel on. I have been using 3M adhesive more and more rather than welding.
Adhesive is great - no doubt. Here's a vid on that too - ua-cam.com/video/d21RkqTwRqs/v-deo.html I use welding and/or glue depending on the situation. Both work well if done right :)
Hi just started watching some of your videos few months ago. Like your work. You earned another sub👍
Thanks Adam - Glad you like the work. Here's a video on longevity of these repairs (if interested) - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
My son and I r working on a 1961 c10. Lots of rust & welding. First time doing it have learned so much from videos thnxs
You're welcome Gordon - let me know how the truck turns out - those were good looking trucks :)
Great video very informative thank you
You're welcome
Why is there so much filler? Isn't that just more places that will be prone to cracking in the future? Just curious
Don't ever be afraid to use filler. All of that non filler talk is just TV and internet stuff. If the surface is prepared correctly it will never crack - and you'll never ever know it was ever there. It has to be done right though and that's the problem and how filler got a bad name - people abusing it. It may seem like there is a lot of filler on this door bottom but in actuality the deepest spot is probably 1/8". Myself, I don't even care if it is 1/2" thick - it's even more rigid. Again if the surface is prepared correctly you'll never have a problem. Check these videos out for more info: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
What welding setup do you have? I find when I try to weld panels I end up burning through the thin steel
I have a Miller Millermatic 90, 110v, 80/20 argon/co2, .023" wire
Do you have to sandblast and paint the inside of the door? Do you normally do that first or after the welding repairs are made?
Yes, you can cut all that in (paint it) before you paint the whole car. Remember - after painting the only thing you should have left to do before shipping it is unmask it. I like to have everything done so I don't mess up the nice paint job.
Thnx so much for sharing 👍 This is a professional body repair and paint job!!!!
Thanks my friend and you are welcome - have a good weekend :)
did you drill some drain hole in the bottom of that door so water can get out? or is the door going to fill up with water every time it rains?
Yes - drilled 3 - 3/8" holes at the lowest points. If it's your car or truck, the bigger the hole the better so that water and debris can exit. You can even blow it clean every now and then and make sure the drains are open - very important for rust prevention.
A Citroen Ami in your area is pretty darn rare thing... Nice & pragmatic demo; I like your work flow...
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it. Yes - very rare car but pretty cool if you can find one that's in relatively decent shape :)
Great video, but you skipped over the welding a bit too quick. Did you just spot as shown or continue to spot across the whole panel? Also would this work similarly with gasless mig?
I continued to spot across the whole panel. I tried flux core wire once but did not like it as much as the gas. I thought it was a little dirtier but maybe I didn't give it enough of a chance. I know it can be done though - I just like the gas.
I was wondering Jerry: if you do not have access to the backside of your panel, should you paint before you weld (maybe using Weld-through primer, for exemple)? Thanks!
There is really nothing that is for sure to use on the back side. You can try all the ideas out there but the best way I have found is to make absolutely sure the panel can drain and stay dry on the inside and that the pinch weld or bottom of the panel has some type of protection that stays fluid or does not harden and eventually peel and trap moisture - here's an example - ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody Alright thanks...
Another great video Jerry ...you make body work look easy 💪🏾
Thanks my friend - you make painting look easy :)
Lakeside Autobody thanks Jerry
Well, that ain't a butt weld, ya ask me. If anything, it is a right angle weld.
The point is... If you absolutely are sold on butt welding rust repairs this is the right way to do it. This way when you're finished you don't have paper thin welds and adjacent sheet metal from grinding away at it trying to metal finish the panel. See the video in the description from Eastwood - they don't agree with straight butt welding either for a good reason and they explain it very well in their video. ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍🙋♂️🙋♂️
👍🛠✌
Thanks for another great video
You're welcome :)
Dude you won a suscriber just in the part you mentioned using the pliers to make a 45` angle to make the weld more solid and easy, as we all know sheet welding is a samurai-like art that takes time to master. That little trick was awesome, without mentioning it improves the general mechanic resistance of the seam a little bit.
Glad you liked it - thanks for subscribing
Great work 👍🏻
Thanks :)
Are you the same guy that painted the Camaro with the pearl paint job
No - but Happy Holidays :) This paint is called Fire Red Peal though: ua-cam.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/v-deo.html
I’m really regretting buying the Titanium Flux 125. Not that it’s bad because it’s actually a good welder. Being purely a flux welder, it doesn’t have the traditional gas nozzle. I’m having to get the perfect lighting to actually see where the wire is and many times I don’t hit the seam because the welding helmet I have is crap lol. It’s a Harbor Freight as well and it was $59. I didn’t get the cheapest dammit! Watching you effortlessly spot weld because you know where the wire is in relation to the nozzle leaves me shaking my head and cursing my utter failure at welding research! 😂
Another great video.
Maybe you can switch out the nozzle. Remove your nozzle and go to HF or a welding place and get one that surrounds the wire / contact tip. Do you have an auto darkening helmet?
@@LakesideAutobody I already tried an HF MiG nozzle and no joy. It doesn’t have threads to go in place of the stock nozzle and it’s too small to go over the stock one.
The helmet is auto darkening but it’s default setting is about 6. That and the wire color is pretty close to the color of the metal. I’ll probably sell it to my friend and get a combo off of Amazon that has flux core and solid capability.
I’m just learning so it is what it is. Another thing I don’t like about it, there is no explanation of what the settings, (numbers and letters) equate to in inches and volts.
It’s a constant reminder that one should never buy an old English Land Rover.... from eBay,..... when drunk 😂
@@chrismitchell45 Don't do anything important when drunk! If you're serious about learning to weld and want a welder for the rest of your life - save your $ and go buy a Miller 110V MIG. Like this one: www.millerwelds.com/equipment/welders/mig-gmaw/millermatic-141-mig-welder-m00486
Nice job
Thanks Jeff :)
I have a question, where do you get the metal from? Do you get it new or used? Hopefully you get this message
Alro Steel in Grayling Michigan but you can get it from any metal supply place. - A1008 Cold Rolled Steel Sheet
@@LakesideAutobody Hey thanks alot for messaging me back I live in Ohio so I should be able to find some. Thank you again for the information and have a great weekend.
interesting approach but misleading as a butt weld. Probably would have been just as effective (and cleaner) putting a flange on the upper portion.
Check out Eastwood' take on this type of butt weld. ua-cam.com/video/rpH50kh4W00/v-deo.html Body shops in Michigan lap weld, knock it down and fill - it honestly is the longest lasting and efficient way other than panel adhesive. See this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html or
ua-cam.com/video/2o37dX--w0I/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the reply, I looked into this a little further and received some more insight (pro's/cons) to lap welding. Great videos!
@@jroot1279 You're welcome. Something to think about: Today's sheet metal is 22 gauge or thinner (6 hairs thick) or .030 a hair is about .005" . If you start grinding away at the welds and the surrounding sheet metal chances are you're going to end up with some pretty thin areas whether it be welds or adjacent metal. All the shops I worked at (and they did excellent work) used a combination of lap , and butt. However, butt was only used where you were forced to do it - on the edge of a panel, etc. Lap weld it up (solid if you want), knock it down, fill it and your done. Most important thing in stopping rust from returning is making sure the drain holes are open at the bottom of the panels and you try to treat the back if you can. Hope that helps answer some ?s you have. Jerry
hmm...40 grit on the sander....think he had some more sanding to do since he didn't feather the filler edges and go up the grits to remove scratch marks.
You can hit it with 80 on the block or some guys hit it quick with the DA while they are feather edging. I use a hog with 80 to knock down the grinder marks in the paint first to make it easier to DA with 120 so sometimes I hit with that also.
Great video, im wondering after seeing another video this morning on plug welding, if i can use this method to replace all my sills on van? he used plug welds every 2 inchs & caulk sealer. stuff( i dont know wht its name is?) ...wondering if it would be ideal , so i dont have to weld all the way along, as im beginner....but def gunna do the work myself!!
I think you'd be fine plug welding and using auto body seam sealer - it won't look perfect but it will work for a daily driver - www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-2013-Joint-Filler-Compound/dp/B007Q0ZQGK/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ACDelco+10-2013+Body+Joint+and+Seam+Filler+Compound+-+10.1+oz&qid=1594661368&s=automotive&sr=1-1
Let me know how it goes or what you decided to do - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody cheers Jerry....i will do
Thanks for the great video and nice body work!👍
Thanks and you're welcome Aaron - have a great end of the week :)
Boa tarde amizade. Muito boas as ideias 💡 pensamentos positivos. Dar pra entender melhor o jeito que você demonstra na prática e semelhança em confeccionar móveis de laminados
Gracias.
A flange weld
You could certainly use a flange weld on this door bottom too :)
Lakeside Autobody Another good video I've just learnt from ... thanks.
Just liked ... and subscribed.
Glad you enjoy them and thanks for subscribing
Nice vid. I like your work. Are you playing guitar in your intros?
Yes I come up with the intros and play them. I always had a liking for heavy metal. Right now I stuck on FFDP and Shinedown (Monsters). I'm think I supposed to be too old for that stuff but...
@@LakesideAutobody Never too old for good music. Keep rockin!
@@ElrodsGarage Check out Heart doing Stairway to Heaven live at the Kennedy Center - Awesome!
@@LakesideAutobody I have seen that one. It's awesome. I like Robert Plant's reaction to Anne Wilson's performance.
@@ElrodsGarage Yes - brings him to tears. I like watching the people in the crowd just loving it - great great performance - lots of pressure but nailed it.
Love your videos I did a 37 Chevy door today
I appreciate that my friend. How did the door turn out? My email is schoolvideolibrary at gmail dot com if you ever want to send some pics of your work - would love to see it :)
Is it not best to primer bare metal before applying body filler?
No one primes bare metal in a body shop before applying filler. If there is a company trying to sell that, I would not take the bait. In 40 years, I've never had filler come off, crack, fall out, bubble, etc. If your surface is prepared right (sharp grinding disc, sand blasted welds, very clean, no rust holes or rust it will be stuck on there forever. Just telling you what I know so you don't waste $.
I have a question, did you completely fill the valley with weld and then grind it level or did you leave a bit of a valley and level it off with filler?
Left a bit of valley then filled it. I totally disagree with grinding welds flush. It compromises the integrity of the weld, the surrounding metal and is a big waste of grinding discs or other material. Knock it down and fill it. It lasts longer too.
I'm up to the point where I'm trying to save a door. Funny you post this. I mentioned you in the video.
Thanks for mentioning me - what kind of door are you saving?
@@LakesideAutobody video to come soon.
Nicely done. What are your thoughts on using metal etching primer before applying filler?
I don't think it's necessary. I've never seen it or heard of it being used in high volume body shops. I do think there is a specific process to use though and that is prepare the metal with 36 grit fiber resin disc such as this: www.harborfreight.com/7-in-36-grit-resin-fiber-sanding-discs-3-pc-69641.html Grind slow to reduce heat and always aim to cut/scratch the metal instead of rubbing/shining the metal. If you are putting filler over paint check this video out - ua-cam.com/video/koMw6-auoIs/v-deo.html Hope that helps - Jerry
are you supposed to use a etch first on bare metal before bondo?
No, it's best to use a nice sharp fiber resin 36-40 grit disc to prepare the surface. Filler will never chip, bubble, peel, or fall out if put over a correctly prepared metal surface.
Love your videos - very helpful! In some of your older videos for something like this you lap weld and then knock it down to then fill. Here you switched styles - do you like this style more now?
I still like and will always prefer lap welding. It's faster, it works just as well and any other method, you can do very large odd shaped rust damage. There's no rust hole that can't be fixed using lap joints. Remember, every car is lap welded together. The floor even has lapped seams (with no weld through primer) and it lasts for a very long time before the rust gets it.
Yeah I saw a video it was a gas tank door he did that method of butt welding. I guess you can use anyway that works for you. I made my patch panel before I did any cutting to make shire I was able to make it, so I didn't just have a big whole. I used old broken appliance fridge metal was the same thickness work well
@@snoopu2601 You are absolutely right. You pick the method that works best for you and your situation. Rust will begin at the bottom of the panel where salt water and debris gather anyway not up high where you seam is.
I going to be trying my luck with welding some patch panels in my old pickup. I have one of eastwoods perfect panel prep tools ordered. Thanks for the info ive been watching all the videos i can to get a better idea of how i need to do this project.
Let me know how it goes and how the prep tool worked for you.
@@LakesideAutobody I'll let ya know. I still have to pick up a gas bottle for my welder and a few other odds AMD ends before i really get into this project.
Great video. I have a question, can similar be done with creating a lip edge on the patch panel to go under the original and welding it similar to how the bottom was done?
There really are no rules so if it works for you then it is a quality repair. You just want to make sure that what ever method you choose works on absolutely everything so that you become efficient. The only problem I see w/ going under is that if you have a round rust hole - how do you get the patch behind if you don't have access to the inside of the panel - many situations like that - rockers, dog legs, lower quarters and fenders, doors etc. Let me know if that answers you question - Jerry