Welding Automotive Patch Panels with a Harbor Freight 125 Flux Core Welder
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- Опубліковано 28 жов 2020
- A Chicago Electric Flux Core 125 Welder from Harbor Freight is used to weld an automotive patch panel into place fixing a lower fender rust hole. Special thanks goes out to Rockrooster Footwear.
Sheet Metal: 20 gauge A1008 cold rolled sheet from Alro Steel
Welder: www.harborfreight.com/flux-12...
Welding Helmet: www.harborfreight.com/adjusta...
Sand Blaster: Speed Blaster - Gravity Feed Media Blaster
Filler: autobodymaster.com/product_lis...
Bondo Hog / Red Sander: National Detroit 900 8-Inch Bondo Hog
Cheese Grater Blade: www.stanleytools.com/products...
Primer: Auto Body Master lacquer primer from local Auto Value Auto Parts store
Primer Gun: Devilbiss MBC 510, 1.8mm fluid tip, #30 air cap
Work boots: rockroosterfootwear.com/colle... - Авто та транспорт
Honestly I can’t say thank you enough I have the same welding machine I had sent you a message the other day and asked what gage metal you used you told me and it was a huge help I figured out my problem I had to thin of metal I had it set on max and wire to slow this video was Awsome and after getting all my mistakes corrected it worked beautiful thank you 1000 time over truly I was a mess 😊
That made my day - I love to hear stories like that.
You're very welcome - always feel free to ask any question - doesn't matter what video - I'll get you an answer. Thanks for the comment and support :)
@@LakesideAutobody I’m watching videos right now on quarter panel rust repair To me your videos are how I would do it and extremely easy to understand I mean your to the point there’s not 10 other things your trying to show I feel like I’m rite there and your showing me again thank you it was such a huge help I mean it 😊 I’m over in Massachusetts near cape cod just so you know where your students are coming from 😊
So what guage metal was it?
@@1windozesuk 18 gauge
@@LakesideAutobody was that 0.6mm or 0.8 wire.i think thaf flux is more difficult to weld thin metal than regular gas welder.it must be clear surface.i bought it to weld automotive.thank so so much
Glad I found this. I have a 170 and are going to be doing the rockers on my daughters PT Cruiser
Thanks for these videos. It is good to see other professionals using these types of tools.
You're very welcome - thanks for the support and positive comments :)
@@LakesideAutobody Absolutely!
Thank you, this video is extremely important to me. I’ve got an old Campbell Hausfeld flux core welder that I thought couldn’t be used for body work, but this changed my mind. Thank you very much! Maybe it will work.
I hope it does - practice just getting a spot on a plain clean piece of auto sheet metal - then go from there. Let me know how it goes :)
Really good. I must watch it a few times & I'm sure I'll have a few questions...Thanks.. Bill
Great vid Jerry...it's always good seeing the work you do!
Thanks UPK - I'll stop over to your channel to see how the box chevy is coming along - that's going to be one sweet car when your done. Have a great weekend - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry have a great weekend!
I like your channel. You are a Real DIY’er. This is pretty much the way I work. A man with basic tools can accomplish a lot if he just goes at it
Thanks - that's good to hear. Have a great end of the week :)
This is the best auto
Body channel on UA-cam! I want to replace rocker panels and cab corners on my f 150 and was looking into the flux 125 for that. Just waiting for it to go back on sale!
Yep - $99 bucks :)
Always the best no nonsense demonstration how to do it right !! 👍🏻
Thanks Paul - I appreciate the support :)
Awesome! I just bought the same welder today hoping I can use it for patch panels on my car. Now I know. Thanks a million!
You're welcome - good luck to you. Ask ?s
You’re the first person to explain flux core properly without all the jargon! I thought I’d bought the wrong welder but as I weld outside the flux core is the best bet. Top man . Cheers
Plus you can use it outside. Hard to use MIG (gas) outside as the wind blows the gas shield away from the weld :)
what did he explain? all i heard him say was put wire speed on 5 and the powere to minimum. did i miss something big?
Great stuff Jerry, as always a very helpful video.👍🏻
Thanks 👍 - Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the awesome body work tutorials! I do a lot fabrication for my own channel and love seeing and learning from the experts!
You're welcome - thanks for watching WCF - have a good weekend :)
Great video for building up an amateur's confidence level. Repair looks fantastic. Thanks a lot.
Thanks and thanks for watching :)
Thank you Jerry . Happy holidays. I can’t thank you enough for the knowledge that you’ve helped me with. Stay healthy amigo .Stl Mo 😊
You're welcome my friend - Happy Holidays to you too 🍗🥧😊
I've used the same welder on the body patches and it makes for a good patch. your spot method is excellent for avoiding burn throughs. I never tried the sure form blades for rough shaping. Great idea. I like a fiberglass (water proof) filler in areas where can't stop water from the other side. Good video.
Thanks Papa - you can use the sure forms for both types of filler. It will make you job a lot easier when sanding that fiberglass filler. That stuff gets hard as a brick.
Correct: seal welded area with fiberglass premix, eg: Bondo-Glass. Bondo has talc fillers which can/will hold water
Really good information I needed to see, I'm fixing to do some patching on my truck, thanks!👍
You're welcome Richard :)
That was incredible!
Thanks Sir G - have a good week :)
Been enjoying watching your videos to get to work on my K10 that needs quarters. Nice stuff
Thanks M Shifter - good luck on your K10. Have a good weekend :)
Thank you for taking the time to make and share this how to video.... I thought it was going to be a lot more involved to do it. I'm sure I'll mess it up a few times before I get it right so I'll practice on junk pieces before I do my wife's beloved 2002 monster S10 truck. The Wisconsin winters salty roads have eaten a lot of her lower cab panels away... Thanks again for taking the time making this video.. Be blessed my friend in Jesus name... BBE..
You're welcome. There's no doubt in my mind if you work at it, you'll be successful. Do one panel at a time if needed but keep working on that panel till it's right. Looking at the whole vehicle can be discouraging if it's real bad. Ask ?s and practice and you will find success. God bless you too - have a great week :)
This is phenomenal
Thanks, have a great weekend :)
I like going back to these demos when I’m doing a similar repair on my nova …. I love doing body filler and learned on my own back in 83 …. And I figured it out pretty Quik , including the grater etc . … I’ve never seen anyone but you or myself spooky it so well and efficiently ! … keep making vids and I’d love to see another one of a rust repair or patch panel with the flux core , which I believe has advantages over regular mig welder
Getting body filler straight can be difficult but like you said the grater and sharp paper makes it a lot easier :)
Thanks. I have the same welder and works great on thicker pieces but easy to blow-thru holes on sheet metal. I also found Min and 5 speed best for thin steel. I replaced the passenger floor pan in my 1965 Dart, but make the "mistake" of trying to butt it flush. That took a lot of fitting and grinding and still couldn't get it perfectly flush everywhere, then many blow-thrus, even holding a copper spoon on the backside where I could. I should have lapped the two as you do here, which makes fitting easier and less likely to blow thru. Inaccessible areas I first painted with a "weld-thru primer", using Rustoleum high-zinc galvanized metal spray paint from Ace. If bare steel, it will quickly rust.
Sometimes you are forced to butt weld but most of the work in a body shop is lapped. A new car has over 4000 weld and not one is a butt weld - remember that when you hear all the hoopla about butt welding :)
You make the sanding part seam so easy :D
After you take off the top gummy layer of filler with the Stanley surform - it's a lot easier to sand. Use a brand new, 36-40 grit piece of sand paper too - cuts real fast.
thanks for all the videos. keep them coning i just got a 52 chevy delux.
I will. Awesome to hear. That's a good looking car - had to look it up first though 😊
nice work.thank you for sharing
Thank you - have a good weekend :)
A master at work your videos have taught me alot
Glad to hear it Chris - thanks for the support :)
This will help me a lot. I'm planning on cutting out and welding in a whole new roof panel to my white crystallite roof Starwagon, just to halt any roof rust hard in its tracks (as well as rust bust and patch weld the rest of the body as needed). Then I'm probably going to paint strip and repaint the exterior in a tan rhinoliner. Apparently Mitsubishi had an issue with their primer under the white paint of these vehicles that would actively promote rust when exposed to sunlight. Mine was garage kept most of its life which prevented a lot of that, but at 30 years old, it's starting to show signs of rust under the paint.
very nice thanks
That is some dark magic. Well done
Thanks - glad you enjoyed it :)
Nice to see some welds looking a little like mine. Just got my fj73 into the garage ready to start on the floor pan. I'm a total novice so vids like this are awesome, thanks.
You're welcome. Know that in an actual body shop guys aren't welding like a union bridge builders. They're proficient at what needs to be done looks doesn't really matter - function does.
Hey Man. Nice work. Thanks for sharing.🍁👍👍
You're welcome and thanks for the support :)
Nice video. Having done my own cab corners and outer rocker panels I found using .030 flux core wire to be ok for this kind of task. These lower priced machines don't take .025 wire. For the DIY folks I found using a shot of compressed air after each tack helps keep the metal from warping. Takes longer but well worth it. Any way you do body work it's a tedious job for sure.
Thank you
A dab with a damp cotton rag does the same. Even better a squirt of water based rust converter.
Where is. 025 flux core wire available to buy?
Very nice job.
Thanks for the support Chris - have a good weekend :)
It probably sounds stupid but when my wife would want to go to somewhere exotic for vacation I'd love to spend a week learning your craft you really are awesome man
Thanks a lot my friend - sorry about the late reply :)
I read your response about lap welds on new cars and It floored me. I never thought about factory lap welds before, I've always butt welded my patches because I was told that was the best way to do it. I may have wasted a few years of my life fitting patch panels on old cars when lap welding would have sufficed. It's going to be hard to break the habit but I'm going to have to give it a whirl. My sons Malibu has a spot that needs repaired and lap welding it would turn an all day adventure in aggravation into a couple hour cake walk.
A lot of rust repair videos on this channel are 5 years old now and still just fine. Here's a follow up video on many repairs done on the channel - I'll do another one soon on this truck (still just fine driving year round) - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html
I tried this about a decade ago. The first thing I did was weld the tip of the welder shut*. I am almost ready to try again. Thankyou for sharing your process.
👍😊
That looks really good! Thankyou for making these videos as it shows me you can do quality work with cheaper tools. Keep it up!
You're welcome - glad you like the videos - have a good weekend :)
Good job brother, thumbs up
Glad you liked it BDTP :) Cool name.
Dude you are a body work master thank you for these A1 videos you work and teaching is the best you are a skilled master
Thanks - that made my day. I appreciate it - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody hi Jerry wheres the best place to get 20 gauge sheet metal
@@adventures223 There should be a steel sales place near your house. I go to Alro Steel and get A1008 CR Sheet - www.alro.com/divsteel/metals_gridpt.aspx?gp=0055 4x8 sheet is around 100 bucks - A 4x8 sheet of wood will soon surpass it! :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you very much again your videos are the best i am learning so so fast
@@adventures223 You're welcome - keep me updated on your projects :)
Thanks for the video!
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
Welding those holes closed was a sight to see.
Didn't even know that was possible with flux core.
I thought you'd melt right through!
Thanks - glad you liked the video - you have a cool channel name. It has a lot of potential. Folks love science and learning really :)
Hi Jerry great video the only welder that I ever have used is the Harbor Freight flux core actually the other machine that I believe is 90 amps I don't use Harbor Freight wire I go and buy the Lincoln wire and I changed my ground clamp to a heavy duty one and believe me it does pretty good I guess the more you practice the better you get thanks for the video my friend
Thanks a lot for that input - I've heard or other folks using brand name wire in this machine. Good idea with that ground clamp. You're right - practice does help - have a good weekend :)
Thank you so much, I’m only 18 and have never messed with body panels, I am going to try and stretch two Jeep YJ tubs into a CJ8 tub. I want it to look as natural as possible and this should help immensely.
Nice 😊 - Feel free to ask any questions you have - I get to them 1-2 times a day :)
Very cool.
This is great! I bought this exact welder for a restoration project I am working on (I am a newbie at welding) but then heard all the comments that you can't use flux core for sheet metal. This video gave me hope that it can be done.
Glad I could help!
Im using mine to weld autobody sheet right now. Works just fine, grinds down nicely. You just have to watch the heat because it'll warp the sheet easily and you'll end up with a low spot where you welded. It can definitely be done.
Great work! Seems like you always get more Spatter from the Flux Core wore...Agree?? You sure help us boost our confidence for doing these repairs. Thank You!! 👍👍
Yes, but it comes off real easy. Wire wheel on a drill takes most of it off and you have to grind the area anyway before filler - that takes the rest of it off. I give it a quick sand blast just to make sure the filler sticks real well too. Thanks for the support BTW and you're welcome - have a good weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody Here in Australia BOC supplies anti spatter sprat. I use it a lot on general light gauge work , when using flux core. Not tried it on body panels, but it is water soluble, and makes clean up so much easier.
Just what I needed for clarification.
I can tell you I got the same welder and I do all my panels with it. I do you use the anti-spatter spray, it does help. One thing for sure I can honestly tell you you have to find the right wire you're comfortable with, I found that the Forney 30 gauge wire was the best for me. It really flows good you just got to be last on the trigger to make those little bitty Welds. Small welds less grinding. I really can't understand what everybody is bitching about with the flux core. You know at one time they did make a 23 gauge wire, don't know why they ever stopped!!! I do know it was quite a while ago though. Anyway thank you so much lakeside for opening people's eyes to the fact that it can be done. Actually a lot of people are doing it.
A lot of people do just fine with flux core. My friend likes Lincoln wire - not sure if you tried that before. Flux core is all this guy (Luis) uses and he do very well with it - www.youtube.com/@firstgenerationgarage2803 Thanks for watching and the comment Joseph :)
@@LakesideAutobody yeah I've tried Lincoln not too bad but I prefer the Forney 30 it just seems to work better for me. I guess in the end that's all that counts right! Thanks again for the video.
I quit running anything "abrasive cutting disc" related without the guard after a Pal (lives right next door) who used work for me (he went self employed) ran one that broke - the piece of disc hit him right smack in the middle of his lips, broke in 4 front teeth, tore his jaw & lips apart like you would not believe - he looked like an extra out of a horror movie for the next few months. Dental bills were crazy.. He's 6'6" & built like a tank - an ickle little cutting disc bust him up like a hot knife through butter.. I made a mental note to leave the guard on the grinders.. Let's not....
Before he did that, I never really paid discs much heed. I do now. I run grinding discs & flap wheels sans-guard - but the grinder with the guard gets used for cutting. Cutting discs are fragile - but not as fragile as your face. :-)
Your so right,,with some people safety's not a priority,,disc without a guard,,lethal,,,
What's way worse is a wire cup brush with the grinder lock button on! Fml that was a close eye opener so to speak! Never again with the trigger lock! Wow
I have the back end of an inner sill to repair (rocker panel in US). But I have a donor car so will be cutting out a piece and working out the best way to insert it. Thanks for the tip about the overlap as I expect the outer panel will need some work.
You're welcome. Let me know how it goes :)
Man TYTYTYTYTY same welder I have this helped so much you wouldnt believe . Great info on videos is helping me so much. 64 o;d dog here learning new tricks
Glad to hear it helped you out - thanks for your support my friend :)
Just joined your channel your awesome ty so much
Thanks for the sub. Glad you like the channel. Here's a great vid to check out the longevity of the repair found on the channel - ua-cam.com/video/gIS1Tbv7Kvw/v-deo.html You're welcome BTW - enjoy the weekend :)
FYl
Thanks
I like your channel and Fitzee Fabrication
Thanks Mark glad you like them both. Fitzee's Fabrication is an interesting channel for sure :)
I actually have the same welder too and I use the fornay wire it worked really good for mine with minimal buildup on the welds. Don't know if you did the conversion on yours I haven't as far as AC to DC got a comment on my video from a guy that has done his and it works well as far as he says and I've seen other videos as well with the conversion, I think I will keep mine as it is for now as it works just fine. I'm not a body guy I'm a carpenter by trade but I try the best I can and it seems to be working, just helping my friends out whenever I can. Thanks for the content it really helped
Glad you like the content Joseph. That's cool of you to help your friends out - enjoy the rest of the weekend 💯😊
Excellent work.
Nothing wrong with that repair.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
It still looks like new - it's a local guy :)
Thanks for telling what speed and heat you use got the same welder and kept burning through on my mustang quarters
You're welcome - low heat and short bursts will prevent blowing through. Let me know how those quarters turn out :)
Brilliant video thank u 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
thanks
My goodness, I guess I’ll be doing great body panel repairs like a champ 1st attempt after watching this video.. 😉
Thanks for the comment Mike - Happy Easter to you and your family :)
@@LakesideAutobody Same to you my friend!
Good to see you can get such nice results with fluxcore. 👍
Thank - glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)
Your technique with the flux cored welder has been very helpful.
One question I have is do you ever find the need to use lead filling?
My dad used lead and converted to plastic filler late 60's through the 70's. He showed me how to do it but I found filler to be a lot easier and in all honesty lasts just as long if applied correctly. That would make for a good video topic though. Thanks for you input and glad you enjoyed the video :)
Awesome!
Glad you liked it :)
@@LakesideAutobody Hi, I'll assume that using an anti-splatter spray on body panels would cause problems?
That's awesome and goes to show that you can use a flux core welder for body work. People keep saying you need gas otherwise the welds are messy etc. Disclaimer I have never used flux core but have been told the reason most people fall over is because they use the same techniques and try to weld exactly as they would with MIG. Apparently for the best results you need to be slightly further away from the piece and maybe change the angle of approach.
i have never used another welder than flux core mig.
Great point! Yes you have to practice a bit and try different things. Although I have always used a Miller MIG (gas) for body work - I don't mind using this little guy - very light, handy, and works fine :)
Mostly because a regular MIG welder with argon gas attachment costs more, cumbersome to get a bottle and get it filled. Great for little projects. Yes it splatters more, but you can grind that off. Sure, if your a professional with daily welding, you need the gas one as the flux core wire is very expensive compared to the standard mig wire.
Yes many dont even change polarity and the complain how bad flux core is
Flux core is definitely a different technique, and you have to reverse the polarity.
I have one of those Italian MIG's from 40 years ago and the HF Titanium 125 FC.
You can't push with flux. You always have to pull so you're not running over your slag.
You need more stick out because you need the flux inside the wire to melt before it gets to the panel. 1/2-5/8 is okay.
Spatter is not usually a big issue. You have to clear off the flux and smoke anyhow, so run a worn out flap wheel over it.
Then wire brush, or spot blast like Jerry shows.
I prefer my MIG because the gas flow cools and keeps me from burning through + it *is* cleaner, but either works, and flux is definitely the WTG if you have to be outside.
Really enjoying the content, thanks for your work. Do you ever use All Metal instead of bondo ot duraglass? Doing my rusty MN cabs&rockers soon and thinking I'll go allmetal
I have not but I really don't have a problem with rust coming back. If you make sure your panels can drain and dry - your good. I squirt some oil in the doors, tail gate, hood, rockers, etc. It settles at the bottom and starts to creep around and coat everything preventing future rust - here's a video on preventing rust: ua-cam.com/video/NXAo5IfMtPM/v-deo.html
I have noticed that you seem to use a pretty basic set of tools for almost all of your jobs. Could you share a list of the tools, supplies and equipment that could get most body work done. For instance, be specific on compressor, sand paper and grits, blocks, hammers, spray guns, primer, fillers, air tools, sanding discs, welder, etc. It almost seems like you do most everything with like 4 tools? I know it's not that simple but it sure would be 'real nice' as you say to have a breakdown of your tools, equipment and supplies. It would be a HUGE help if you have time to share! Thanks for all of the great instruction, your style is fantastic, keep the videos coming!
Great idea. I would love to make video of that. My dad was a body man and he used to have stories of some guy that would come in with a 5 gallon bucket of tools and do everything he needed to do out of that bucket. I'll put together a video on that - thanks for your input - Jerry
Excellent video and exactly what I needed to know. Your video was straight forward with easy to follow instructions. The patch might not be 100% perfect but then again it didn't take you a whole day to do it and it looks good to me. I think it's time I get one of these cheap welding units and try this myself of my classic car.
Thanks Brian - it lasts a long time too - see this video for more on that: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
I have one of these welders and i love it.
Is it acceptable to weld with the nozzle off?
Seems like i can judge my spot welds better this way, but i don't want to damage my welder.
Yes - that's fine.
I got one of these welders thank you for the video I got a 94 f150 and a 96 f150 that needs patch panels welded in on the back quarter panels been wondering if this welder was capable of it I know I can run some really good welds with it that are very strong this welder don't get enough credit in my opinion once you master it there's really nothing it won't weld if you can get past the little bbs it leaves afterwards your good once grinded down can't really tell i found Lincoln .030 wire works really good in it and if you take the little cone thing off the end that really helps a certified welder told me you don't need that cone thing it's only for shielding gas
My friend uses the Lincoln wire and say it works real well too. Thanks for the comment and the information - good stuff :)
Thumbs up Pal
LOVE your videos Jerry! I was just wondering if you protected the back of the panel in anyway? Thanks!
Thanks and you're welcome. I did not on this job but am not worried about it as this patch panel has great drainage now. If it was my truck, however, after it was painted I would do this:
ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html Also, if you can access the back it's really a good idea to sand blast it and coat it with some undercoating of your choice. I like stuff that stays flexible - never really gets brittle. There are a ton of choices out there - I have not found a favorite yet. Always open to ideas on that. Jerry
Thanks for these videos which as a newbie I have found really useful but I have a couple of questions. Most other tutorials on UA-cam advise to spot weld a few inches away from each other and slowly fill in the spaces between spot welds to avoid heat distortion but I notice that you stich them together as you go...how do you prevent distortion ? Secondly shouldn't you be wearing long sleeves to avoid UV damage to your arms ?
On long runs, yes I would put your spots a couple inches apart and then fill in to control heat and distortion of the panel like in this older video ua-cam.com/video/fSTkMkPryPQ/v-deo.html check it out at about 12 min 32 sec. However, on very short distances and rigid panels like rocker panels, etc. you'll notice that I just run it straight across because you can get away with it there - won't really distort enough to cause problems. As for the wearing sleeves and protective clothing - It got so hot it body shops in the summer I just said forget it - even wearing masks for sanding was just too miserable. It's bad but I welded for a lot of years just closing my eyes on each spot and turning my head. Now though, I do wear a welding helmet and breathing mask and try to stay safer - it is a good thing for sure. Good questions - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for taking the time to reply
Yep that's my problem too then I didn't overlap any of metal and couldn't get my cut good enough to get the two pieces tight and ended up being short. Looks like I'm gonna be buying two more new rear wheel arch panels. I got so aggravated with trying to weld it and blowing right through as soon as I pulled the trigger. That was the first thing I noticed when I turned this video on was the overlap with the thin patch. Thanks for confirming that as I always thought that's how I see alot of them on trucks that has some work done on it. Also what size wire are you using, and how far can your ground be? Should I get one of those copper u clamps ? Thanks again have a good one from the almost heaven mountains of WV
I’d be out there 10 times as long and it would look 1/10th as good. Do you put anything on the back side of your patch panels to keep them from rusting from inside?
Not usually but I absolutely make sure the panel can drain. For example: lean a piece of bare sheet metal up against a chain link fence and it'll be there for a darn long time before it rusts away because it can drain and dry. Watch this video for some good info on that: ua-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/v-deo.html
I see this is 9 months ago but......I just had cab corners done professionally and they use something called cavity wax. The shop highly recommends it whenever you can.
@@lukeofearth1036 thanks!
I love your videos. A couple of Quick questions from someone who doesn’t know much about body work. Are your spot welds overlapping so there are no spaces between them? Does it matter if there are spaces between the welds? And what I does knocking the welds down do? Does it make a v channel for the filler to go into? Thanks
My boss used to make us put the welds right next to each other and that obviously worked great. As time went on I cheated a bit and started leaving spaces and found it made no difference because the panel will begin to rust again at the bottom where the salt water and debris settle anyway - not the side. lastly the knock the welds down does 2 things 1) hides the seam 2) all seams whether butt welded or lap welded are not completely water proof - we are not robot welders so even a small pit will leak. The rigid layer of filler in the knocked down area does a great job at battling any moisture trying to penetrate the repair especially if you use a layer of fiber glass reinforced filler on your first coat. Hope that helps :)
Thanks for the reply. I’m trying to get the courage to fix the rusty wheel fenders on my truck. Panting is what’s holding me back. Every time I spray doors with my cheap HVLP gun, it leaves a gritty texture on the door...granted it’s thinned latex paint but the doors look great.
@@JiuJitsuDad Do let fear get the best of you...figure out whats causing the problem and go from there. Ask questions too :)
Hi, great video and all the other videos are fantastic.. You definitely have another subscription from me..
What wire are you using as I have my very similar welder on the same settings and I am not creating a puddle at all! I am new to this today
Thanks so much - glad they are helpful. Feel free to ask ?s. I answer 1-2 times/day. The wire came with the welder and is .030". I did have to play with the settings and the distance (work/gun) and angle. Keep at it - you'll find out what works for you. Thanks for the sub :)
The beginning of this videos makes a good case for me getting a new plasma cutter lol. Cutoff wheels suck!
Hola, saludos cordiales desde Argentina.
Lo felicito por su trabajo!.gracias por compartir, me ayudan mucho y aprendo.
Hola, saludos desde Michigan. Gracias y de nada. Me alegro que ayuden. Como va la vida en Argentina?
La verdad que aqui esta muy dificil.
Tanto por la pandemia, como la economia. Veo muy sombrío el futuro de mi pais lastimosamente.
Este es un pais muy complicado; mucha corrupción, la vida es muy cara, no podes progresar.
Pero bueno, hay que seguir luchando con fe y esperanza.
Yo aprendiendo este hermoso oficio de la chapa y pintura, con la intención de hacer mi propio emprendimiento en futuro cercano, y poder independizarme laboralmente.
Aprendi mucho de sus videos, y valoro mucho su gran gesto de compartir sus conocimientos con el prójimo.
Estoy comprando herramientas dentro de lo que puedo, aca es muy caro todo.
Seria muy interezante que en algun momento, pudiera usted crear un grupo de whatsapp, para poder charlar, hacer consultas, etc.
Le mando saludos cordiales.
Another great video, I've watched a few now its the motivation I need to start work on my own project 👍is there any wire you would recommend for a gasless welder brand wise
Just speaking from my own experience but my harbor freight 125 does just fine with the vulcan .030 flux core
I'm just using the wire that came w/ the welder (cheap). However, a friend of mine says he uses Lincoln wire and it works much better but that's hearsay so.... I am going to give it a try when I run out of this stuff and see :)
@@LakesideAutobody I tried both as well and I like the lincoln wire more
Nice!
Thanks - glad you appreciate the content - have a good weekend :)
I love you Jerry!
CC - good to hear from you - talk to you soon my friend - I'll swing down there w/in the week maybe your dad, you and I can have lunch or something
I like the way you put the wheel opening body line in the patch before welding it on......how did you go about doing that?
Masking tape and let your block hang over the line
If you are talking about the bend in the metal - I have a nice old fashioned large jaw vise that I clamped it in (wheel well side) then just sort of bent it by hand a bit manipulating it to that shape. Glad you noticed that :)
Question??? Do you have a video on a simple Paint Gun and comperssor set up for autobody painting for diy ??? Great videos.
Thanks, here's one on a compressor. Keep in mind that this is the minimum size I think you can get away with. ua-cam.com/video/53miAObOdVY/v-deo.html Here's one on guns: ua-cam.com/video/PnmJ1ywmvsU/v-deo.html or for primer:
ua-cam.com/video/THc0v-1TMug/v-deo.html
@@LakesideAutobody great..i haven't seen anyone break the "how to buy a diy paint setup"...i will check it out..also i just subscribed...ur videos a are academic level.....should be teaching at auto trade school...thxs..
So with a floor pan patch is there any different tips or tricks you have for welding with the flux core? Still overlap weld versus butt welding?
Overlap is always your first choice unless you are forced to butt weld - like A,B,C posts, door edges, sharp bends etc.
should you prime them before adding the filler or does the filler provide the protection you need from corrosion of the new metal?
Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. Use a slow speed on your grinder/sander w/ 36-40 grit fiber resin disc. I get the idea of products that claim it will "provide protection" but it's not
necessary. I've never seen it done in any shop I've worked at. In the end though it's up to you - what you think will work the best for your situation. I'll do a video on that - I've had a lot of folks ask that. Thanks, Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate the reply. Hope it didn't come off as rude, was a legit curiosity question for me. Thanks, love the page!
Another great video. My question is would a rasp do the same thing the grater does to remove material quickly? N how's the quality of the finish after the grater?
I don't think the rasp would work as it would probably clog up but.... give it a try - you never know. The finish is fine because you sand it as you would normally sand filler after you get it close with the grater or (Stanley surform). Have a great weekend :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was thinking the same thing about the rasp clogging. N I meant is the surface relatively smooth n easy to sand after the grater? Which I suppose would depend on how fine or coarse the grater is. Enjoy your weekend. Rumor has it we might warm up a degree or 2 for the weekend lol
Yeah it's smooth cause you don't get that close with the grater. You have to know when to stop with anything, with the grater you stop in time to hit it with 80, and then 180, and then primer. It will be smooth
@@jonathanyates5198 You're right - gotta leave yourself some to hit with the sand paper.
you need more adujustleveles of the volt here, than High or lowe , i have weld much carbody with fluxcore
What level of smoothness or flatness does the metal have after the grinding and tapping down before filling. Its hard for me to get a sense of what can be covered well by the filler.
Awesome question and I will be posting a video on that exact topic w/in the next couple weeks. For large areas like this it needs to be roughed up good with anything under 80 grit - used sharp paper or fiber resin disks - filler adhesion is a mechanical bond and need to grab onto or lock into the scratches. Don't use a DA with fine paper :)
I love your channel so much! It has been incredibly helpful with my project. I am welding some patches into the bed of my pickup. I can see little bits of light from some angles coming between my spot welds. Will the bondo seal these holes sufficiently? Are these tiny holes acceptable or should the welds completely seal the patch?
You don't have to weld solid. If you are concerned about sealing use fiberglass reinforced filler for you first application of filler - it's water proof unlike regular filler. I use regular filler and have no issues though - remember to tap the seam down before filling :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you very much. You do great work. Really appreciate your expertise. Keep up the great content!
@@andrewsimpson3194 I will Andrew. Thanks for the kind words and thanks for watching :)
great video, but why didn't you weld the corners of your patch panel at the bends or weld the front solid where the grille fits ?
You can do that if you want. I really just focused on the seam for video purposes. You can finish or fashion your patch however you think it will last the longest. Good observations MM :)
Great video! I replaced a rocker panel on my truck, with your great videos. It turned out great. Is it getting too cold outside to replace the other side? Will sheet metal wrap more because of the colder air. I'll be outside doing the repair
Absolutely. Nothing wants to bond to cold metal. The cold will be ok for welding, but your filler and primer will not stick or setup properly unless you find an unusually warm day around 70
Mike is right your welding will turn out the same (flux core works the same inside as it does out because there's no gas to blow away). You won't have any more or less warping. The filler will harden much slower so add some more hardener to it to compensate. Primer will dry slower too - might have to try to get it indoors after priming.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry & Mike!
@@robertlipscomb9741 You're welcome - keep us updated on the progress :)
Question so is it better to spread filler over bare metal vs primed metal ? Another awesome video !
To me it's best to spread it over bare metal as that is how it was done in every shop I worked at. Use a low speed on your sander/grinder and use sharp 36-40 grit fiber resin discs. Filler sticks great to clean, freshly ground metal. In the end it's up to you though and what you think is going to work best for your application. I've never had filler crack, fall out etc. putting it over bare metal though. Thanks for the support BTW.
@@LakesideAutobody agreed . Fillet has got a bad name from people putting it over rust unsanded paint over dirt grease oil and then leaving the rest of the metal to rust . Also all repairs need oil on the back of the repairs soon as paint is cured
Why do you sandblast the weld? Is that to remove any flux residue? and last question what is the sandblaster you are using it looks portable? Thanks
Filler sticks real well to sand blasted metal. You can wire brush it though if you don't have a blaster. Here's the exact one I'm using - works great - www.autobodytoolmart.com/product/Zendex-speed-blaster/abrasive-blasting-equipment?gclid=Cj0KCQjwp86EBhD7ARIsAFkgakgy0eIiRSLD8V6peqv3wY5hR8jyELBM4424ISFgv38tVt6QZfnp6twaAq-GEALw_wcB
Great repair my friend, how do you get the curve on the repair peice
I bent it in a vice - It's actually a straight bend but good enough. The filler will do the rest. Have a great weekend :)
Hi I'm Steve from Jamaica, I look up to you as a mentor in the field. I was wondering what size wire do you use with your welder and can you advise me about burn through?
On this welder it's .030" but on my Miller MIG it is .o23". To keep from burning through on thin sheet metal whether you're using gas or flux core - be short on the trigger. Turn your voltage/amps down and use short bursts of weld. Let me know how it goes for you. Thanks for the support :)
Can you butt weld with that flux core welder or only weld the panel with an over lap, thanks.
Here's a vid on that - ua-cam.com/video/iznc9CCtZnw/v-deo.html
Thanks for putting this video together. It looked like you were applying a powder coating at about minute 5:12. I wasn’t sure what you were doing here, would you please explain?
That was a small sand blaster. I use the media from tractor supply - $9/bag Here's the blaster - www.amazon.com/SpeedBlaster-Gravity-Feed-Media-Blaster/dp/B000IHUQ5E/ref=asc_df_B000IHUQ5E/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
Thanks for taking the time to explain and even go so far as to provide the details in your response, that’s pretty awesome. Thank you!!!
@@groothebarbarian You're welcome Steven. Have a good weekend my friend :)
Problems with flux core is a lot of splatter and there are more chances of burning holes and warping in body metal I went to argon mix a big difference and hardly any splatter to clean up but flux core does the job but gas does a nicer one .
Can that body filler only be applied to bare metal? Or can it be applied to primer or etch primer?
Body filler sticks great to bare metal - it can be applied over primer or etch primer also.
question.
the hammer work was just to push in the seam right? so that its easier to transition
Yes, the seam gets tapped down like they did with sail panels at the factory. They stamped a depression in the two panels - quarter and roof, welded them in that channel, tinned it and filled with lead. Today we use the same method only with MIG and body filler.
How would you do a curve? Like the back corner of a wrangler?
This video may help answer that ?. ua-cam.com/video/QNDRjyphZJQ/v-deo.html or this one: ua-cam.com/video/IRgtWiKA7UY/v-deo.html