The ecu got filled with oil because the oil pressure sensor went bad or it is trans fluid and it got pushed through the harness and into the ecu. That ecu probably wont last long. I replace a lot of ecus for that problem. You can call a mobile programmer to change the vin and disable the skim module if you wanted. I do a lot of these old chryslers. You also habe to make sure the calibration matches your vehicle. California emissions vehicles and federal have different calibrations. If you have any queations ask away and ill try to answer anything.
Seen this exact thing happen on a dodge Durango after my buddy ordered an ECU “configured to his vin” I called bull shit then and you just proved it. Thank you!
The instrument cluster and additional features are malfunctioning due to incompatible communication protocols (Dodge's uses CCD and Jeep's uses PCI). Consider the get onde from Dodge Dakota 2002 4.7, which utilizes the same protocol as Jeep.
I got another 4.7 HO computer with skim delete ( it just puts the pcm in learn mode and skim in the column must still be disconnected) and it worked great accept the key security light was on in the dash. So i did the right thing and removed the bulb.👍 This was on a 2002 Overland GC.
You could always get a flipper zero to tell the key fob detector that it's getting the correct code and you can use that for any vehicle you wanted to also if you ever ran across the problem again
I believe for 2002 and later Dodge used the 4-plug NGC combination ECU that also handles the transmission. Also 32 teeth on the crank tone ring, rather than 16. WJ's all used the JTEC 3-plug ECU's.
Seems like an appropriate time to bring up Daniel Lazlo's project to rebuild the DRBIII cheaper so that we can all have cheap access to oem-level tools and real tuning for our pre NGC Chrysler heeps. Will make diagnosing issues without a $2000 scan tool so much quicker. Look up Chrysler Scanner.
If you are interested I’ll get the wiring diagrams off Alldata if you’re interested. Probably different pinout on some items like the gauges. That’s why check engine came on Ron
D&E been watching you guys for years. Never seen you cover the problem I have with my 99 WJ grand Cherokee Limited. Listen to this so for a year or so it was randomly shutting off with me driving down the road no pattern whatsoever sometimes would start right back up sometimes would take hours. Then one time sitting on the side of the road trying to get it to start. I had removed the air filter for some reason in it and it fired right up. (New filter, incorrect filter.) since then I have fabricated a much thinner, temporary filter. I’ve been running in it and guess what it hasn’t shut off on me in three months. What do you think this could be related to?
I think it's a false correlation. I think it's coincidence that the problem went away. More likely you have a shorted wire and messing with your filter got it a better connection. Obviously just a guess though.
I forget whether the WJ uses a MAP or MAF sensor, but if it's MAF (Mass Air Flow), a *really* dirty/failing MAF sensor could potentially exhibit symptoms similar to what was described. If it's a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, then it's gotta be a false correlation, and moving wires/harness around when opening the filter housing may have caused a better electrical connection which made the problem go away.
You shouldn't have to swap ECUs; you just need to get the components the particular bells and whistles you want are made up of. For example, if you want the EVIC overhead display, you just need that display unit with its computer module, and install it in place of your basic compass & temp overhead display. If you want memory seats, you need to make sure you have the seats out of a WJ trim level that had memory seats, possibly might need to replace the wiring harness, but not sure, and the memory seat computer module with the two buttons on the door panel. The main ECUs and body computers should all be capable of running everything, you just need all the additional pieces, including their individual control modules if they have one, and sometimes a specific wiring harness. Unlike modern vehicles, these computer systems were pretty much plug-and-play. You don't need to program the individual modules and main computer to accept one another. You simply connect it up and it works. Some of the bells and whistles are worth it, but others can be more work/cost than they're worth.
The ecu got filled with oil because the oil pressure sensor went bad or it is trans fluid and it got pushed through the harness and into the ecu. That ecu probably wont last long. I replace a lot of ecus for that problem. You can call a mobile programmer to change the vin and disable the skim module if you wanted. I do a lot of these old chryslers. You also habe to make sure the calibration matches your vehicle. California emissions vehicles and federal have different calibrations. If you have any queations ask away and ill try to answer anything.
You hit the nail on the head. I’ve seen it but not at that amount.
More on changing the VIN with good scan tool?
Yea that's bad. Good thing oil isn't conductive. Not like that things gonna last long anyway.
Seen this exact thing happen on a dodge Durango after my buddy ordered an ECU “configured to his vin” I called bull shit then and you just proved it.
Thank you!
The instrument cluster and additional features are malfunctioning due to incompatible communication protocols (Dodge's uses CCD and Jeep's uses PCI). Consider the get onde from Dodge Dakota 2002 4.7, which utilizes the same protocol as Jeep.
Thank you! I will give that a shot
@@DEInTheGarage Greetings from Brazil
Well that answers the obvious "why" question.
I got another 4.7 HO computer with skim delete ( it just puts the pcm in learn mode and skim in the column must still be disconnected) and it worked great accept the key security light was on in the dash. So i did the right thing and removed the bulb.👍 This was on a 2002 Overland GC.
Oil cooled ECU? Amazing this sort of worked...
You could always get a flipper zero to tell the key fob detector that it's getting the correct code and you can use that for any vehicle you wanted to also if you ever ran across the problem again
Awesome information, thanks for sharing
Im curious if an obd reader would still display rpm/ read sensors
Seems like that ECU..... (puts on sunglasses...) Was well lubricated..... (The Who's Won't Get Fooled Again starts playing..) 😂
I believe for 2002 and later Dodge used the 4-plug NGC combination ECU that also handles the transmission. Also 32 teeth on the crank tone ring, rather than 16. WJ's all used the JTEC 3-plug ECU's.
That's those ( VERY RARE ) Oil Cooled ECU'S.
UNREAL that Oil Soaked bunch of electrical parts didn't let the smoke out.
GOOD TO KNOW, T.Y.
You are great buddy, keep it up, 😀
Thank you!
Seems like an appropriate time to bring up Daniel Lazlo's project to rebuild the DRBIII cheaper so that we can all have cheap access to oem-level tools and real tuning for our pre NGC Chrysler heeps. Will make diagnosing issues without a $2000 scan tool so much quicker. Look up Chrysler Scanner.
It’s always that 1 guy 😂 funny ass hell
it is the same oil they use in high voltage cables :)
Hope you had a good Thanksgiving Douglas and Eric.....
You too Dan!
Great video bro!
Just gotta reflash the VIN, not impossible at all.
Program the VIN in the ECU and see if the rest of the computers fall in line? Maybe the gauges will work if the ECU is set up right.
If you are interested I’ll get the wiring diagrams off Alldata if you’re interested. Probably different pinout on some items like the gauges. That’s why check engine came on
Ron
Very Interesting. Email me if you'd like to discuss further dandeoffroad@gmail.com
sounds like a good idea to put it under your back seat. out of the way but a good life boat to get home if needed.
That is what I am thinking. Better than walking..
You have one of the upgraded oil-filled ECUs
i know this is unrelated to the video but i have to ask.. Where did you get those giant q tips?
Harbor Freight. Whole bag for like $5
D&E been watching you guys for years. Never seen you cover the problem I have with my 99 WJ grand Cherokee Limited. Listen to this so for a year or so it was randomly shutting off with me driving down the road no pattern whatsoever sometimes would start right back up sometimes would take hours. Then one time sitting on the side of the road trying to get it to start. I had removed the air filter for some reason in it and it fired right up. (New filter, incorrect filter.) since then I have fabricated a much thinner, temporary filter. I’ve been running in it and guess what it hasn’t shut off on me in three months. What do you think this could be related to?
I am relatively stumped. Shooting from the hip.. how are your throttle body sensors? Specifically IAC. Never heard of an air filter choking off a 4.7
I think it's a false correlation. I think it's coincidence that the problem went away. More likely you have a shorted wire and messing with your filter got it a better connection. Obviously just a guess though.
I forget whether the WJ uses a MAP or MAF sensor, but if it's MAF (Mass Air Flow), a *really* dirty/failing MAF sensor could potentially exhibit symptoms similar to what was described. If it's a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, then it's gotta be a false correlation, and moving wires/harness around when opening the filter housing may have caused a better electrical connection which made the problem go away.
How the hell is there so much oil in the ecu
previous owner clearly never changed the oil in his ecu...tsk...tsk...
Normally its the dodgy dodge wiring. The only thing is the PCM can be junk too.
Wish someone would do this on a v8 zj
ZJs don't have SKIM, so this would be unnecessary for one. Any old key (provided it's the right key blank, and cut properly) will work.
i have a 2001 JGC Loredo with the 4.7. if i put the ECU from a limited will i get the space age bells and whistles available in the limited.
You shouldn't have to swap ECUs; you just need to get the components the particular bells and whistles you want are made up of.
For example, if you want the EVIC overhead display, you just need that display unit with its computer module, and install it in place of your basic compass & temp overhead display. If you want memory seats, you need to make sure you have the seats out of a WJ trim level that had memory seats, possibly might need to replace the wiring harness, but not sure, and the memory seat computer module with the two buttons on the door panel.
The main ECUs and body computers should all be capable of running everything, you just need all the additional pieces, including their individual control modules if they have one, and sometimes a specific wiring harness.
Unlike modern vehicles, these computer systems were pretty much plug-and-play. You don't need to program the individual modules and main computer to accept one another. You simply connect it up and it works. Some of the bells and whistles are worth it, but others can be more work/cost than they're worth.
Careful with all that oil there bud, we’ve been out of Iraq for a while now and the army has fancy toys they wanna play with.
😂😂😂
6:53 he tests it.