2005 EXPLORER SPORT TRAC 4.0L VALVE COVERS PT 1

Here's a quick intro overview and the passenger side procedure for R&R of the valve cover gaskets. It's involved, and there are a few hurdles that you should take note of before trying this if you're a beginner.
The Driver side is covered in Part 2. here: • 2005 SPORT TRAC 4 0L V...
GASKET SET:
www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/...

[@r2d2326]

I recently smelled burning oil from my 05 and discovered that someone (I blame jiffy lube) broke the valve cover socket the oil fill neck goes into. I’m assuming by pulling the radiator hose over the fill instead of removing the fill neck first to get at the trans dipstick. So this is the fun I’m having tomorrow.
Thanks for the video friend!

[@AC-lk8di]

Just a few tips because I just did both valve covers on a 2001 sport trac 4.0. Driver side is easier than passenger side! Tip# 1 You do not need to remove or mess with the egr tube or assembly at all. There is enough clearance to remove the valve cover without touching it. Just remove the fuel rail 2 bolts and use a bungie cord to hold it back from the valve cover. The fuel injector wiring can be removed to make it easier but not completely necessary. The hardest part for the driver side is just taking your time and carefully removing the wiring harnesses. The rear pcv is a pain but just remove the two heater hoses connections first. Tip #2 passenger side. It’s very tight but you can remove the 90 degree hose going into the thermostat housing that crosses on top of the valve cover and then unbolt the 15 mm bolt and 10mm bolt on the side of the head to get the hose assembly/trans dipstick holder off. You will need long needle nose pliers to reach the clamp. I left all the wiring for the injectors in place. The plastic pvc pipe can be unhooked and tied back with a bungie cord to hold it back while you remove the valve cover. Make sure you check your timing cassettes on both sides while you have the valve covers off! Mine both were broken. This is the plastic Slack side of the timing chains. So engine will need to come out unfortunately to replace them both. Sucks I know but it is what it is. Some other videos show removing the intake to get the valve covers. Not necessary at all. I had both valve covers done in 4 hours. Wasted time actually because now I get to pull the motor next weekend. Oh well I will replace the chains and main rear seal too. Ugh. Mine has 240k on it though so it’s to be expected! If you have a 4.0 with over 160k I think it’s easier to just pull the motor and replace these wear items all at once. That being:
Timing chain kit, complete
Valve covers,
Water pump
Rear main
Lower engine oil pan seal
Maybe the upper if you see seepage
Oh did I mention I just replaced the grenaded rear diff that the spider gears destroyed themselves turning it into a positrac rear end? Just replaced the carrier and bearings. Ugh. But $170 in parts it’s back on the road.
But absolutely zero car payments and I am a Dave Ramsey success story. True story.

[@frankdaiii6403]

Thanks for the tips! I WISH someone would have told me about that fuel rail!! My nephew's 2001 destroyed the timing cassette and yeah I pulled the engine. Turns out a previous "mechanic" installed the wrong cam and all 3 intake valves on the driver side were bent. I'm SO glad I checked, so I did both cylinder heads while I was there because he was taking his rig to college, but I had plenty of time to work on it. Same as you, rear, front main, injector seats top and bottom oil pan, only I added new intake valves, all new seals, lapped them all, and of course the new timing chain set. It had 227K last year and that little 4.0 runs like a champ! I took video but my God, editing is the biggest pain of all this!

[@Joaquin77]

I own a 2005 sport trac and i have been doing minor work. I took it to a shop during the pandemic to replace the cassettes and time chains i think i told the guy to replace all gaskets while the engine was out.. 2 years later i noticed an oil leak landing on the muffler and smoking it.. close inspection, seems like they made a seal with silicon (the lazy way) so i guess i need to patch it to be able to take it to a repair shop in Mexico, across the border.. I live in Brownsville Texas.

[@frankdaiii6403]

@@Joaquin77 I'm in Edinburg! Los Fresnos High class of 89! Which seal did they use silicone on?

[@Joaquin77]

@@frankdaiii6403 nice! im class of 95 hehe the one one ehr i spotted a white silicon residue is on the driver side close to the firewall.

[@iamdjnam]

31:35 Lol at the broken rear timing chain cassette grinding into the upper positioning bolt

[@kada-vibes9816]

Thanks because my v6 valve cover cracked and it made alot of noise so thanks for this video

[@braud357]

I need to do this on my 2008 Explorer 4.0 - I am beginning to think that it would be easier to pull the engine !!

[@moshichiu9793]

It looked like the rear timing chain guid was broken!

[@riderr2035]

I recommended flush your heater core while you have all that apart

[@keeponkeepkeepingon8376]

Hey Franks Which state is this vid being filmed?

[@frankdaiii6403]

The Lone Star State.

[@keeponkeepkeepingon8376]

@@frankdaiii6403 star as in Texas (OH NAaaaaah) - but if you were in the same state as someone needing it done would you correct this for them ; if so how much? This way I'll know what is reasonable amount......

[@frankdaiii6403]

@@keeponkeepkeepingon8376 tough to say depending are where you live. I would call around and get estimates at professional shops and go from there. alldatadiy.com says 3.0 hours of labor charge. When I've fixed rigs for some friends who wanted to pay me, I usually charge 70% of an average of 4 or 5 shops I call plus the alldatadiy subscription and any special tools i need.

[@Joaquin77]

THANKS for the video!! What city in South Texas are you from man? Im from Brownsville, TX.

[@frankdaiii6403]

I'm in Edinburg, but I went to school in Los Fresnos.