I used this video as a reference and just did mine and have a few extra tips: Carpets were soaked, and the trough down each side of the kick panels were full of water. I used a shop vac to suck out the water, and then raised the front of the truck to get the water out that was pooled at the front to head to the rear to suck it up and also sucked what I could out of the sound deadening. Got 2/3 a gallon of water out of it! For the old seal remnants, I found that scraping it was not the right way, but used a lever action using a curved plastic trim tool to lift and pull it away. I then used brake cleaner (red can) and lots of blue rags to clean it up as this dissolves the old seal. For installation of the new seal, I did not smush it down like in this video; just laying it in the groove as you dispense off the roll, as you remove the backing paper at the same time is all it needed; it holds very firmly on its own just under its own weight. I’m also taking the opportunity to do the resistor trick on the heated rear window signal wire (when this loses continuity your heated mirrors and window won’t operate), and to drill the peg for the seat back release, so that I can tie a piece of paracord between it and the headrest mount to make it easier to drop in the future. Final recommendation is as soon as you see any moisture building up inside your F150, or it smells a little damp, don’t put it off - just get it changed! Mine is going to be parked up for a few weeks with a dehumidifier going to dry out the carpet (currently raised up on 2x4s to allow air to circulate under it).
Awesome man. Thank you. I bought a 2011 last January and noticed after a rain storm I was getting condensation on the inside of my windshield. Then when I finally got around to a deep clean I noticed water on my passenger rear carpet near the door that came up with the vacuum suction, and this would make sense that my rear window is leaking. This project seems manageable, and probably saves a ton of money.....assuming I don't break anything lol.
@@jadedjay7861 I had a couple issues after further investigation. My third brake like gasket had failed and was leaking. So I fixed that myself. My rear window gasket was leaking along with the sliding window weather strip missing about a 1 inch chunk so it was also leaking. I ended up finding a local shop who put in a new, solid tinted heated glass for $300 total. So I essentially deleted the sliding window because I barely used it anyway and a new window with a slider was a lot more money. But I really like the clean look of a solid glass, and since I had a shop do it it's under warranty. They gave me a discounted price because I had removed the seats and trim to dry the carpet, because my back area was super soaked after a bigger rain storm.
I've gotta replace the window in min same process it seems just better plan on a full day I guess this seems way more involved then I'd have hoped for. Mines also leaked fair amount and ended up moveing to a wetter state 2-3 xs the rain fall... I just got some caulking and caulked it seems to have help till the windonshatterred :(
Thanks for the info. Same problem with my 2010. Didn't know it's a common issue with f150's. So that makes me feel a little better. Thought it was just my dumb luck. Looks like a simple fix. Now just have to find the time to make the repair.
Yep, you gotta take ALL the carpet out to get it dry. Mines currently hanging out on the fence drying. Went to a manual car wash and sprayed it down with dawn and scrubbed it ALL! Now to repair the weather stripping and reinstall carpet!
Thanks for the video! Driving in the rain today my son yelled from the back. Dad I'm getting dripped on! I said ohhh nooooooo. This looks manageable but time consuming. Mine is a 2012 also. Guess that sealant lasts about 12 years or so lol
@@redsion23my 2010 started leaking in the same spot. I gutted my truck out completely of carpet and insulation seats and all! Now I gotta get over the fear of handling the window seal myself 😂. But I wanna do it myself ya know!
Pretty sure there was no gap. It looked that way in the video but I think it's because he had to tear the brown backing tape stuff not the seal itself. That's how I saw it at least
Does anyone know if the F150s that do not have the power rear window are attached the same way with bolts? I have a 2012 with no power window. I had a guy come out and look at it and said the window is glued in place and not bolted in. I don’t think he had changed one on these trucks before and don’t know how much I trusted that statement. Just wondering if the rear windows with no power window are attached the same way or differently.
if he would've started a foot or so further to the driver's side, there's a spot designed for the strip to sit right next to the starting part, so that there ends up being a section several inches long where it's basically double width. Assuming the gap of the two ends was butted up close enough though, the squeeze from bolting it back in should've prevented a gap - but not starting in the spot designed to be started from was a strange choice.
I would like to talk to the engineers of this vehicle. You know there is a 40 year old ford sitting in a salvage yard for the last 20 years and its never leaked. Hypothetically speaking.
I used this video as a reference and just did mine and have a few extra tips: Carpets were soaked, and the trough down each side of the kick panels were full of water. I used a shop vac to suck out the water, and then raised the front of the truck to get the water out that was pooled at the front to head to the rear to suck it up and also sucked what I could out of the sound deadening. Got 2/3 a gallon of water out of it!
For the old seal remnants, I found that scraping it was not the right way, but used a lever action using a curved plastic trim tool to lift and pull it away. I then used brake cleaner (red can) and lots of blue rags to clean it up as this dissolves the old seal. For installation of the new seal, I did not smush it down like in this video; just laying it in the groove as you dispense off the roll, as you remove the backing paper at the same time is all it needed; it holds very firmly on its own just under its own weight. I’m also taking the opportunity to do the resistor trick on the heated rear window signal wire (when this loses continuity your heated mirrors and window won’t operate), and to drill the peg for the seat back release, so that I can tie a piece of paracord between it and the headrest mount to make it easier to drop in the future. Final recommendation is as soon as you see any moisture building up inside your F150, or it smells a little damp, don’t put it off - just get it changed! Mine is going to be parked up for a few weeks with a dehumidifier going to dry out the carpet (currently raised up on 2x4s to allow air to circulate under it).
Excellent video! I have the same leak and will be doing this in the next couple weeks.
Awesome man. Thank you. I bought a 2011 last January and noticed after a rain storm I was getting condensation on the inside of my windshield. Then when I finally got around to a deep clean I noticed water on my passenger rear carpet near the door that came up with the vacuum suction, and this would make sense that my rear window is leaking. This project seems manageable, and probably saves a ton of money.....assuming I don't break anything lol.
How'd you fix it?
@@jadedjay7861 I had a couple issues after further investigation. My third brake like gasket had failed and was leaking. So I fixed that myself. My rear window gasket was leaking along with the sliding window weather strip missing about a 1 inch chunk so it was also leaking. I ended up finding a local shop who put in a new, solid tinted heated glass for $300 total. So I essentially deleted the sliding window because I barely used it anyway and a new window with a slider was a lot more money. But I really like the clean look of a solid glass, and since I had a shop do it it's under warranty. They gave me a discounted price because I had removed the seats and trim to dry the carpet, because my back area was super soaked after a bigger rain storm.
I've gotta replace the window in min same process it seems just better plan on a full day I guess this seems way more involved then I'd have hoped for. Mines also leaked fair amount and ended up moveing to a wetter state 2-3 xs the rain fall... I just got some caulking and caulked it seems to have help till the windonshatterred :(
i work for safelite rn and you just saved my ass bro thank you
Haha! Glad to help!
Thanks for the info. Same problem with my 2010. Didn't know it's a common issue with f150's. So that makes me feel a little better. Thought it was just my dumb luck. Looks like a simple fix. Now just have to find the time to make the repair.
Yep, you gotta take ALL the carpet out to get it dry. Mines currently hanging out on the fence drying. Went to a manual car wash and sprayed it down with dawn and scrubbed it ALL! Now to repair the weather stripping and reinstall carpet!
Thanks man from chile i did exactly as you said no more leak!
Great job, great video. I have the same problem, Thanks a lot for sharing this video and I will now utilize the learning from you all.
This will save me a ton, thanks for this
Great video thanks!
Saved me $800
I have the same issue with my 2012. Thanks for the video, doing my very soon. And I did subscribe to your channel.
Looking for a status update. Any more leaks? Was the 5/16 the right choice?
Thanks for the video! Driving in the rain today my son yelled from the back. Dad I'm getting dripped on! I said ohhh nooooooo. This looks manageable but time consuming. Mine is a 2012 also. Guess that sealant lasts about 12 years or so lol
Haha. My '12 started leaking this week as well.
It definitely takes some time. I'd put aside half a Saturday for it and a helping hand would be beneficial for sure.
My 12 FX4 has started leaking as well 😑
@@redsion23my 2010 started leaking in the same spot. I gutted my truck out completely of carpet and insulation seats and all! Now I gotta get over the fear of handling the window seal myself 😂. But I wanna do it myself ya know!
Verry commin epically if you have an aftermarket sound system .have done this twice in 10 years
I'm glad to see that you can remove the window without having to disconnect the window track cables. That looks like it would be a pain.
Thank you brother 🙏
I was told by a ("professional company") that they can remove it, BUT the window might break. And I would have to pay for it. And that looks so easy.
Very helpful
Thanks for the video
Great vid, thanks!
thank you!
Thanks for this bro .. I just noticed mine is leaking 🤦♂️
Can you tell me where you got that gasket I've been looking all over and no one seems to have it I sure would appreciate it thank you
Looks like you had a gap of sealant on the corner? Did you fill that gap?
Pretty sure there was no gap. It looked that way in the video but I think it's because he had to tear the brown backing tape stuff not the seal itself. That's how I saw it at least
What kind of subs
Does anyone know if the F150s that do not have the power rear window are attached the same way with bolts? I have a 2012 with no power window. I had a guy come out and look at it and said the window is glued in place and not bolted in. I don’t think he had changed one on these trucks before and don’t know how much I trusted that statement. Just wondering if the rear windows with no power window are attached the same way or differently.
Been a bit but they are also bolted and sealed same as this. Did you ever get it done?
@ I went to a maaco shop and they did it, it was indeed bolted on. Had to drop the rear seat and drop the headliner a bit, they said
How did you close the gap at corner of the back window with rubber seal strip
It's designed to have a gap. Engineers knew exactly what they were doing
if he would've started a foot or so further to the driver's side, there's a spot designed for the strip to sit right next to the starting part, so that there ends up being a section several inches long where it's basically double width.
Assuming the gap of the two ends was butted up close enough though, the squeeze from bolting it back in should've prevented a gap - but not starting in the spot designed to be started from was a strange choice.
I would like to talk to the engineers of this vehicle. You know there is a 40 year old ford sitting in a salvage yard for the last 20 years and its never leaked. Hypothetically speaking.
Naw you right bro I seen it last week 😂😂 at my grandmas neighbors house
Where are you located? Can I pay you to replace mine on my 2013 F150?
I'm in Louisiana. Not sure I want to take on another rear windshield though haha
@@StephenFixesThingsis it leaking again yet?
@@GoneCarnivore No leaks yet & it sits outside in the rain frequently.
Just caulk it !!
On the outside in the gap?
@@jadedjay7861 I'm thinking the outside. A caulk with 100% or mostly silicone, fine bead.
This is what I think I'm going to do.