Awesome ! I just gave up at the junkyard last weekend trying to get a center console out. You just earned a sub and like! By the way, you can use a 7/16 socket on the rears!
Thanks for the sub and comment. I've never tried a 7/16 on the rear bolts but I can see how that would work very similar to the 15mm socket on the front nuts.
I don't know about cutting the wire, but the condition of that seat it wouldn't matter. You can also use a riding lawnmower and set of jumper cables. Good video and explanation of wires for pos and neg.
Note that I specifically said to cut the truck side of the wire harness, aka, the wires on the truck side of the connector. That way your seat is still 100% intact, no cut wires, you just plug it into your own truck when you get it back. Lawn mower battery with jumper cables would work also, but still more stuff than I want to carry around in the junkyard.
Thanks, glad it helped. I don't have any video or experience converting power seats to manual. I think with the amount you can usually find in the junkyard, I would just find a set of manual seats.
The same trick can be used for power windows and getting the glass out. You can use an 18V battery as well. Just realize, don't do it for long, and the motion of seat or window will move quite fast. But certainly any 12 volt battery drill is the best.
You are very clever, Sir. I wonder if you can do the same if you want to check if the seat can recline using your method? What color of the wire to use? Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure about other manufacturers, but in the gmt800 trucks and suv's the same 2 wires supply the power for all the functions, recline, forward and back, lumbar, etc.
@@MohawkMotors The question is for my 2000 Buick LeSabre, the power driver seat is not working. I wonder if the wires that you just showed will do the trick. :)
On fnding change: while crusing my local pick 'n pull in modesto ca , chatting with jobless dude. For xtra $ he spends half a day under mats, seats, consoles , never less than $20; about same as picking up soda cans...he said.😊
had 2 wire harness connections: o ne with 4 wires (2 of which were black and v t orange), and the other had 8 wires(2 were black, a couple were pink and red striped, and there was blue and maybe a green and a yellow by..) So I proceed with Dewalt 20v. Nothing happened. I try again and no movement of the junkyard car seat. But it did start a fire .
So instead of cutting the wiring harness needed if the seats were to be reinstalled, you cutt the wires connected to the truck connecting to the harness ? So then you could take the truck side conncector off once uninstalled and the seats are still in one piece ready for plug and play ?
BINGO!!! Cut the truck side of the harness, that way the seat you want is still in plug and play condition, and if you need the other side of the connector you'll have it as well!
MAYBE, and thats a very big maybe. If the battery was super fresh and the motors in the seats were also healthy you may be able to move the seat a bit, but I don't think it would be enough to actually remove the seat.
I'm sure walmart would have something in the automotive department. Any battery with 12-18 volts will work fine for this. Heck you could even use something up to 20 or 24 volts. All you're doing is providing power directly to the motors and switch, which aren't all that voltage sensitive in this circumstance. Battery out of your car would work just fine.
If the motor is broken, you can remove it (major pain in the butt) and then move the seat by manually turning the driveshaft to the worm gear. Unless the seat was going to be free, or I was really desperate, I would just find another seat.
a car battery shouldn't have hurt the motor, they are designed to run on battery voltage when the truck is running. Sometimes one direction fails in them, sometimes you just get unlucky and they work once and then don't work again.
@@MohawkMotors thank you ill try tomorrow to move it bacckwards btw i watched your 4.3 to 5.3 engine swap my donor is a 2002 suburban im stuck right now with the fuel lines but the engine and transmission is alredy in and bolted
Remove the motors. Or remove the little drive cables that run from the motor to the gear. That's the only way I've been able to get them to move once the motor is dead.
@@MohawkMotors Just saw Auto Auction Rebuilds not able to do that with bad Allante seat motors. he ripped out the passenger seat, and used an engine hoist to rip out the driver seat. Could not get at the bolts to remove them, and could not get at the motors...
@@cousinjohncarstuff4568 I can't speak for other brands as I really only mess with GM products. But I can tell you that if you remove the drive motors from a power seat in the GMT800 platform, you can then turn the screws and move the seat forward and backward enough to access the bolts. I've done it myself. It really really sucks but it can be done. Depending on the reduction ratio or drive system other manufacturers use it may not be possible without destructive methods
Only if you really mess up. All of the supplemental restraint (airbags) wiring is in separate yellow connectors, don't connect power or ground to anything in the yellow connectors and you will be safe.
@@MohawkMotorsoh okay thanks! I know they’re normally fed 12V….would an 18V battery work for this/won’t fry motors? I want to use this trick to test a power seat prior to pulling it so I know it works
I have a great little adapter that clips in the battery with a USB port and has a pair of wires that you have red and black wires 12v +- but I have so I can make the interior light on my trailer and not have any issues with my guys at work nights it's just so much easier to see i have led light bars not dinky dome light like a car was like 10 bucks on temp and the other is a led light cube like on off road vehicles and they are 5 times as bright as dewalt 20v flashlight and they have them in your brand name tools battery adapter and they have adapter to use a dewalt 20v for all the 18v stuff and no more nicad business 😂 creates our tools to use our other tools batteries and no need for 10 in each brand
That's really nice to have those battery adapters. Some brands make certain tools better than other and having a bunch of different batteries is annoying.
Duh why carry that heavy ass battery when you can use the battery from your drill not only that most junk yards won't let you bring in a car battery so duh is right
If you know your going to junkyard to get power seats. Just string 35 sets of jumper cables from your car in the parking lot...duh. don't forget orange cones and a six pack of black tape....duh. Servay: is my attempt at humor obvious. Too much effort for too little return...duh. true. And I could have played "multiple choice vowel switch" on the "seervey" word above, but couldn't justify the Xtra time I would'a had'ta invest....duh.😊. Time is...?..I forget.
1:00 I pull the harness out from under the seat, at 1:27 I strip the wires and explain which ones you need, at 2:00 you can see the wires hooked into the battery and the seat moving. I'm not sure what more you're looking for than that Scott.
@@MohawkMotors You pulled from the front and suddenly magic wires appeared with nothing indicating where they came from. The drivers seat harness comes from the rear yet you pulled from the front. I saw no wires when you removed the seat.
Actually Scott, in the 99 to 02 trucks, like I was using to demonstrate in this video, the harness connects in the front. The plug wasn't moved to the rear until 2003 model year. In the GMT 800 platform large orange is the main power feed to the motors, large black is main ground for the motors, whichever year seat you're trying to move, Large orange to power, large black to ground/negative and you can move the seat, assuming the motors aren't bad. Just trying to help people out, as you can see from the comments, this video has helped a bunch of people. Thanks for watching!
@@MohawkMotors Working on a 2002 Yukon XL. The passenger seat came out without an issue once I got access to the harness (front). Drivers side access was in rear. Used an 18volt DeWalt battery as well. Great idea on that btw. My confusion stems from the difference in years and the wiring changes. I'll continue to watch your content 👍👍
Can,t tell u how appreciated this info is.Thank u so much,have a super day.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
U saved me today when i was taking some seats today from the junkyard. Thank you sir 💪🏽
No problem 👍Glad to help!
Awesome ! I just gave up at the junkyard last weekend trying to get a center console out. You just earned a sub and like! By the way, you can use a 7/16 socket on the rears!
Thanks for the sub and comment. I've never tried a 7/16 on the rear bolts but I can see how that would work very similar to the 15mm socket on the front nuts.
😮😅😅😅😅😅1😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢k😢😢😢😂😂😮
Want to thank you for posting this video, very helpful as today I’m going to get a power seat I need for my new build.
Glad it helped!
Darn, I should of watched this yesterday. I was @ the yard. I need a seat for my grand prix! I'm going to have to go back and get one now! Thanks!
No problem! Glad it helped, Good luck!!
Timelessly useful video! Works great. Thanks for explaining what wires to connect to.
Glad it helped!
I was here to find the way..... I find the way. Genius idea. Thank you!
No problem! Glad it helped!
you just saved me hundreds of dollars man, thank you!
No problem! Glad to help!
Thanks for this tip. A dewalt battery or 9v. Hell yeah. I need to replace a seat bad. Thanks again. Helped plenty
Glad it helped
I don't know about cutting the wire, but the condition of that seat it wouldn't matter. You can also use a riding lawnmower and set of jumper cables. Good video and explanation of wires for pos and neg.
Note that I specifically said to cut the truck side of the wire harness, aka, the wires on the truck side of the connector. That way your seat is still 100% intact, no cut wires, you just plug it into your own truck when you get it back.
Lawn mower battery with jumper cables would work also, but still more stuff than I want to carry around in the junkyard.
A very useful tip, this is why I watch UA-cam automotive videos. I'm going to try this next time at the local yard, and I don't even need a seat. lol.
Yes, it works great and a lot of people don't know so you have access to seats that most other people don't know how to get!
This is cool! Thanks much! Do you happen to have any videos on converting power seats to manual?
Thanks, glad it helped. I don't have any video or experience converting power seats to manual. I think with the amount you can usually find in the junkyard, I would just find a set of manual seats.
Remember, if the better uppolstery is all you seek, un hook just the cushions in minuts..super easy and way cheeper.
Good pointer!
Would this work on a 1993 chevy obs bucket seat w power
I'm not sure, I'm not as familiar with the OBS trucks and how their seats are wired.
The same trick can be used for power windows and getting the glass out. You can use an 18V battery as well. Just realize, don't do it for long, and the motion of seat or window will move quite fast. But certainly any 12 volt battery drill is the best.
yes it can, just had to do it yesterday actually!
You are very clever, Sir. I wonder if you can do the same if you want to check if the seat can recline using your method? What color of the wire to use? Thank you in advance.
I'm not sure about other manufacturers, but in the gmt800 trucks and suv's the same 2 wires supply the power for all the functions, recline, forward and back, lumbar, etc.
@@MohawkMotors The question is for my 2000 Buick LeSabre, the power driver seat is not working. I wonder if the wires that you just showed will do the trick. :)
I'd bet there's a good chance it would work for your lesabre
@@MohawkMotors Okay thank you. God Bless you!:)
Great explanation video. Have a challenge for you. Try a 2003-2006 Mercedes S. The controls are on the door and the seat moves in many directions.
If I come across one in the junkyard I'll give it a try!
He was talking GM Chevy,so wire color might differ.
On fnding change: while crusing my local pick 'n pull in modesto ca , chatting with jobless dude. For xtra $ he spends half a day under mats, seats, consoles , never less than $20; about same as picking up soda cans...he said.😊
I believe it, always a chance of a big score too, I've found a few $5, $10, and $20 bills between seats and underneath where they're hard to reach.
had 2 wire harness connections: o ne with 4 wires (2 of which were black and v t orange), and the other had 8 wires(2 were black, a couple were pink and red striped, and there was blue and maybe a green and a yellow by..)
So I proceed with Dewalt 20v. Nothing happened.
I try again and no movement of the junkyard car seat.
But it did start a fire .
Sending a virtual hug from phx Az thanks bro bro
Thank you too
So instead of cutting the wiring harness needed if the seats were to be reinstalled, you cutt the wires connected to the truck connecting to the harness ? So then you could take the truck side conncector off once uninstalled and the seats are still in one piece ready for plug and play ?
BINGO!!! Cut the truck side of the harness, that way the seat you want is still in plug and play condition, and if you need the other side of the connector you'll have it as well!
What if the seat controls are on the door and not the seat
I'm not sure, not familiar with those systems.
Would this work with just an energizer 9volt battery from the grocery store?
MAYBE, and thats a very big maybe. If the battery was super fresh and the motors in the seats were also healthy you may be able to move the seat a bit, but I don't think it would be enough to actually remove the seat.
@@MohawkMotors thabks for the reply... is there something at Walmart I could buy?
@@MohawkMotors or even, could I take my car battery out of my other car and use that? Would it be too many volts?
I'm sure walmart would have something in the automotive department. Any battery with 12-18 volts will work fine for this. Heck you could even use something up to 20 or 24 volts. All you're doing is providing power directly to the motors and switch, which aren't all that voltage sensitive in this circumstance. Battery out of your car would work just fine.
What if i want to remove the seats to use them, how can i do that without damaging the harness?
Cut the wires on the truck side of the connector like I did.
Appreciate it boss thank you, im about to go try this out
But what do you do if the motor is broken by the seat is there a manual way??
If the motor is broken, you can remove it (major pain in the butt) and then move the seat by manually turning the driveshaft to the worm gear. Unless the seat was going to be free, or I was really desperate, I would just find another seat.
@@MohawkMotors ok I will try that thanks
What if the seat does not work?
Then your only option is to take the seat off the rails, which is a huge pain in the butt with it still in the vehicle.
How do you remove it if the seat won't move? Like it is stuck.
If the motors or actuators are stuck or broken, the only was to remove it is completely take apart the seat tracks and rails. It's a massive pain.
If you don't see anything obvious holding it up; like a coin wedged, best to move on cause something ain't right with it
I used a car battery and it did move forward but now it does not move any more do you think i might of butned the motor on the seat
a car battery shouldn't have hurt the motor, they are designed to run on battery voltage when the truck is running. Sometimes one direction fails in them, sometimes you just get unlucky and they work once and then don't work again.
@@MohawkMotors thank you ill try tomorrow to move it bacckwards btw i watched your 4.3 to 5.3 engine swap my donor is a 2002 suburban im stuck right now with the fuel lines but the engine and transmission is alredy in and bolted
What are you stuck with on the fuel lines?
You’re the man🤙
Thank you!
When the seat motors are fried, and will not move, what is Plan B?
Remove the motors. Or remove the little drive cables that run from the motor to the gear. That's the only way I've been able to get them to move once the motor is dead.
@@MohawkMotors Just saw Auto Auction Rebuilds not able to do that with bad Allante seat motors. he ripped out the passenger seat, and used an engine hoist to rip out the driver seat. Could not get at the bolts to remove them, and could not get at the motors...
@@cousinjohncarstuff4568 I can't speak for other brands as I really only mess with GM products. But I can tell you that if you remove the drive motors from a power seat in the GMT800 platform, you can then turn the screws and move the seat forward and backward enough to access the bolts. I've done it myself. It really really sucks but it can be done.
Depending on the reduction ratio or drive system other manufacturers use it may not be possible without destructive methods
Is there any risk of seat air bag deploying when doing this?
Only if you really mess up. All of the supplemental restraint (airbags) wiring is in separate yellow connectors, don't connect power or ground to anything in the yellow connectors and you will be safe.
@@MohawkMotorsoh okay thanks! I know they’re normally fed 12V….would an 18V battery work for this/won’t fry motors? I want to use this trick to test a power seat prior to pulling it so I know it works
18V is fine for testing and removal. The battery I used in this video is a 20V dewalt battery and didn't hurt anything.
what is the yellow dewalt device used, newbie here.
It's just an 18volt dewalt battery for my cordless impact.
@@MohawkMotors thanks
Beautiful trick love it going to pick n pull😅
Thank you! Good luck!
I have a great little adapter that clips in the battery with a USB port and has a pair of wires that you have red and black wires 12v +- but I have so I can make the interior light on my trailer and not have any issues with my guys at work nights it's just so much easier to see i have led light bars not dinky dome light like a car was like 10 bucks on temp and the other is a led light cube like on off road vehicles and they are 5 times as bright as dewalt 20v flashlight and they have them in your brand name tools battery adapter and they have adapter to use a dewalt 20v for all the 18v stuff and no more nicad business 😂 creates our tools to use our other tools batteries and no need for 10 in each brand
That's really nice to have those battery adapters. Some brands make certain tools better than other and having a bunch of different batteries is annoying.
What's the highest voltage battery I can use without killing the seat motors?
I wouldn't go any higher than 20 volts.
Wish me luck gotta take out driver seat on a 17 traverse and replace it
Good luck!
Simple enough! Thanks for the information! :)
You're welcome!
Awesome hack thanks dude.👍🏻
No problem 👍
Thanks for the helpful tips
No problem!
It was a great help thank you
Glad it helped!
Yo! How'd you get the seat OUT
Use the cordless impact battery to power up and move the seat, then unbolt it.
Hooked up orange wire, airbag blew my face off
1/10 do not reccomend
wrong orange wire, power goes to the BIG orange, the small orange is for the airbags, but you already know that.
Thanks for the advice... very important.
Friggin awesome 👍😎
Thanks!
Thank you 🤝
Welcome 👍
This worked great!!!!
Great to hear!
Man thats smart! Thank you!
No problem! Get some good seats!
Thanks for this video
No problem
Never thought of that 👍
It's a good trick!
Damn private Gump you're a goddam Genius 👍😉
That's the most outstanding answer I've ever heard! You must have a goddamn IQ of 160!
Thanks Steven!
Replacement center seat for the new work truck? I wish we had u-pick yards up here, I'd have SO much stuff stored up by now if I did lol.
Yup!!!! you guys don't have any up there? Man, great business opportunity!
Tks
No problem!
Great job bro thakns lot
No problem 👍
I just hook up to battery terminals under the hood
can do it that way also, sometimes the battery cables are missing though
That will work if the fuses and harness stuff is intact. Check for power to ground continuity or look for smoke after the connection is made 😊😊
Thank you
You're welcome!
perfect video
Thank you!
Why does this look like LKQ Mount Airy?
Because that's where it is! lol
Thanks broski
No problem!
I need help with the heater section of a saturn harness... I sent a note to your DM on facebook link. Thanks!
I checked I don't see any messages. Not sure how much I can help with a saturn heater harness
Nice
Thanks
Excellent!!!
It's an excellent trick!
wow thanks alot
No problem!
Nice!
Thanks!
Good advice but beware of newer cars w seat airbags.
also good advice!
its like you knew i needed a power seat track...... wtf thanks
Glad it helped!!!
if you know your going to a junk yard to get power seats . Just bring a car battery ..................DUH !!!!
lol, you're not wrong, I just try to bring as little as possible when I have to carry it all around.
Duh why carry that heavy ass battery when you can use the battery from your drill not only that most junk yards won't let you bring in a car battery so duh is right
Most junk yard won’t allow it fire risk
If you know your going to junkyard to get power seats. Just string 35 sets of jumper cables from your car in the parking lot...duh. don't forget orange cones and a six pack of black tape....duh. Servay: is my attempt at humor obvious. Too much effort for too little return...duh. true. And I could have played "multiple choice vowel switch" on the "seervey" word above, but couldn't justify the Xtra time I would'a had'ta invest....duh.😊. Time is...?..I forget.
Lmao 🤣
You never showed the harness either before or after. When you said "Hopefully you can see what I'm doing here" is when you lost credibility.
1:00 I pull the harness out from under the seat, at 1:27 I strip the wires and explain which ones you need, at 2:00 you can see the wires hooked into the battery and the seat moving.
I'm not sure what more you're looking for than that Scott.
@@MohawkMotors
You pulled from the front and suddenly magic wires appeared with nothing indicating where they came from. The drivers seat harness comes from the rear yet you pulled from the front. I saw no wires when you removed the seat.
Actually Scott, in the 99 to 02 trucks, like I was using to demonstrate in this video, the harness connects in the front. The plug wasn't moved to the rear until 2003 model year. In the GMT 800 platform large orange is the main power feed to the motors, large black is main ground for the motors, whichever year seat you're trying to move, Large orange to power, large black to ground/negative and you can move the seat, assuming the motors aren't bad.
Just trying to help people out, as you can see from the comments, this video has helped a bunch of people.
Thanks for watching!
@@MohawkMotors
Working on a 2002 Yukon XL. The passenger seat came out without an issue once I got access to the harness (front). Drivers side access was in rear. Used an 18volt DeWalt battery as well. Great idea on that btw.
My confusion stems from the difference in years and the wiring changes.
I'll continue to watch your content 👍👍
Genius
Thanks!