What Caused the Dipstick to Blow Out On
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- There were a lot of questions to my last video about why the dipstick blew out of the engine on #ETCGDadsTruck. I admit that I didn’t make it clear that the 2 were unrelated.
Here’s a link to that video: • Are Mistakes the Best ...
In this video I cover specifically why I feel the dipstick came out of my engine and what I need to do to verify that.
Links to my social media accounts at the bottom of the description.
Check out my other channel for repair videos: www.youtube.co...
My Patreon Account: / ericthecarguy
Thanks for watching!
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarg...
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecar...
Related Videos
Hydrostatic Lock, the Silent Killer: • Hydrostatic Lock the S...
What is Detonation and How Can it Kill Your Engine?: • What is Detonation, an...
What Really Happened to the Fairmont’s Piston? Eric Comes Clean: • What Really Happened t...
How To Perform a Compression Test: • How To Perform a Compr...
How To Perform a Leak Down Test: • How To Perform A Leak ...
Octane Ratings Explained: • Octane Ratings Explain...
5.7L Engine Teardown: • Chevy 5.7L Engine Tear...
#ETCGDadsTruck Playlist: • #ETCGDadsTruck Build I...
**Answers to your Automotive Questions Here: www.ericthecarg...
Social Network Links
Facebook: www.facebook.c...
Twitter: / ericthecarguy
Google+: plus.google.co...
Instagram: / ericthecarguy
Want more content from ETCG? Information on Premium Membership: www.ericthecar...
Stay Dirty
ETCG1
![Is your Engine Damaged? | Blow-By & Engine Breathers [GOLD WEBINAR LESSON]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TvazViNq12M/mqdefault.jpg)
Every ETCG video is packed with valuable information. We're so lucky we can learn all this for free.
I build engines as a hobby. For me, a spread of 135-155 PSI on a freshly rebuilt engine would not be acceptable. I would expect all the cylinders to fall within 150-155 PSI, in your case.
You can tell which cylinder has the blowby, by disconnecting the spark plug wire, and seeing if the "chuffing" out the breather port stops.
Nice trick buddy. Never thought of that before. So simple.
Agreed, but I feel I have all I need. The engine needs to come out and I need to disassemble and inspect it.
Hopefully it's nothing major. (fingers crossed)
Agreed, i also build engines as a side job/hobby ( mostly OHC ford stuff) and 20 psi difference is not acceptable. most 200,000 miles i've tested were within 10psi of each other.
Man, that trick will save me so much time in the future. Thanks
Thanks for not LSing the world. I like classic cars the way they are.
EDIT: Awww I love your content Eric! Keep it up.
The same engine builder, the same issue, the same resolution im betting. Id be taking a good hard look at the products they are using and the quality of their work, especially on the episode where you called out the shop owners mistake on video and how lazy he was, the workmanship is starting to show the lack of quality as a result of the garbage you dealt with when it was built
I'm using quality parts. I don't think it has anything to do with the machine shop either.
I'm thinking that Eric built the engine himself. I guess shit happens. Seems like hes a busy guy other than just building his dad's truck engine And sometimes it looks like he has to turn away from that work to do other work so he can make a living. And it looks like sometimes he may be paying the price for that lol but, he's very upfront about it.
Cylinder 3 don't look all that happy either..... Good luck. Love the truck and how it came out!
It appears I am facing a similar issue with my BBC that I built. I'll need to do a compression check to confirm it but... Not looking forward to pulling it I can tell you that! Thanks for the good info.
That engine compartment organization looks EXCELLENT-!
I love how you say you have to take out the motor like it’s easy peasy 😂 that engine bay is beautiful man love the work you do
Thank you, and yes, I don't think it will be too difficult to remove the engine. Especially after it was just out.
Im glad you keep the old school small block to, and hope your engine feels better soon 👍
Knock knock
Who is there
Number 8
I effin loled
It wasn't number 8 piston knocking it was the FLEX PLATE.
I bought a 1985 Grand Marquis as my new daily. It's a stupid idea in many ways, considering I live in Finland, but I absolutely love it! We'll see about that when winter comes around...
Those are great cars actually, but likely difficult to find parts for in Finland.
It's fascinating to read these comments after watching the disassembly of this engine. Sooo many people have such strong opinions and they are all so wrong. Makes you really question what you read on the internet. lol
Thanks for the birthday wishes, and the cake! I’m closer to 30 than 20 now (25), and I have been watching your videos since I was 17.
It seems suspect that a freshly built engine is having such major compression swings. And like others have said, please resist the urge for tunnel vision and look at all the cylinders that are out of that 150-155 range, especially the 2 that are down by 135. It is so easy for us to get stubborn, watch south main auto’s new video where he gets stuck in it so easily. It happens to all of us! Go through the process!
I hope I didn't give you the impression that I was only going to focus on cylinder #7. Of corse if I have the engine out I'm going to check everything, but #7 is the prime suspect because it had the lowest compression. Now that I'm not in a rush to get it ready for the Power Tour I have plenty of time to dissect it and find the cause of the problem.
Happy Birthday!
Thank you Eric always enjoy watching your videos from South Africa
There should be a temperature difference between the runners on your headers. The runner for #7 should be lower than the rest. But you got this. So don't mind me 😊
Oh man that sucks it has to come back out. But you'll get it figured out and it will be interesting to see how things go.
Wow what a change. So much nicer. And I’m sure it has to be much faster and stronger now. Looks pretty $$$
Aside from the issues you are having with the engine, it looks great! Love the serpentine set up in the truck, clean look, shiny and chrome!
Hey Eric! Just wanted to say that you were the first youtuber to ever reply to one of my comments about 5 years ago. Thank you. Keep up the good work. 👍
It's a real honor to know that. Thanks for the comment.
2nd 👋
That thing shore is purdy. Can't wait to watch you build it.
According to your paper there, #3 was 135 also. just saying.
Yes, but my primary suspect is #7.
@@ETCG1 I beg to disagree you have 2 cylinders with issues. 135 on both? eyes open...work the issue and you find out when you pull it down.
I see that #7 was fluctuating 130/135, which is bad, but #3 is also going to need a look as well.
I believe on Chevy's the odd number cylinders are on the same side so he should be able to check out the cylinder walls of both 3 and 7 with only taking the one head off
Deryk I was wondering if it’s timing. Are both those pistons on 3&7 up and down at the same time?
Machine shop u use does shoting work !!! Left honer running on that cylinder the whole time they was on hour long lunch
Good video. Hope it turns out to be a relatively easy fix.
Yeah he’s gotta pull the engine out.
You said it man, happiness is in the family.
Thanks for the heads up
Cheers
Tough luck Eric.... hang in there. It'll be awesome when the bugs are worked out!!
Nice video. Compression coming out from my dip stick. But my compression is 160 in all cylinders. What could be the problem. I recently did a valve job.
First time I actually watch ETCG1 on my birthday! Thanks Eric!
Happy Birthday!
*GM 350 - still a warrior along with the LS engines!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*
I have a jeep with a 4.0, that was hemorrhaging oil out of the dipstick tube, when capped it path of least resistance-ed it out of the oil pan gasket. turned out it was the crank vent, not the pcv valve, but the ambient vent that goes to the air box. I popped the hose off and it sounded like I vented a 2 liter soda bottle lol
I've changed the vent and the PCV valve with no change. Thanks for the input.
@@ETCG1 yea man, best of luck. greetings from dirty Jersey
It was lucky that the dipstick did release the pressure :-)
I don't think i commented about the plate as i didn't see any connection.
A headgasket to oil passage way would have been my first thought.
Eric the confusion master :-D
Teacher trying to stump students.
wobbly sauce
ha ha yep he is a bad lad :-D
Or in this case, it is a brainstorming session. Different ideas possibilities.
Chevy small blocks like this one do not have any oil passages through the head gasket. The oil goes through the pushrods to the rocker arms. Head gaskets only have water passages. Only way for cylinder pressure to make it down the crank case is past the rings.
I don't think a head gasket issue is likely. Perfect mating surfaces (new) and a new head gasket. I think it's more likely to be piston or ring damage.
Check your ring placement. If the gaps are too close or right on top of each other, you'll lose compression right down into the bottom end.
Good luck my man!
I worked pretty hard to prevent that during assembly. However, I'll know for sure when I get it out and check things over. Thanks for the input.
Nice Pro Flo 4 EFI, even if the engine has an issue thats a load of eye candy, keep it coming.
I knew I wasn't crazy... I do appreciate the clarification.
I’ve had cast iron piston rings break during installation before. Problem was traced back to adjustable piston/ring installation tool allowing rings to hang on the lip of the deck and get cracked. Switched over to ARP tapered ring compressors.
I used this tool for piston installation. I'm done with the type of tool you described for the very reasons you mentioned. www.summitracing.com/parts/btc-btrrc4030
I've got faith you will figure it out. The engine builders seem to know their stuff, I'm left to wonder about the quality of the materials they used. Perhaps an issue with the rings that won't show up on a normal built engine, but one with higher performance specs is causing problems. As always, we'll keep an eye out for updates on the channel(s) and look forward to seeing what is discovered.
All Best!!! And the NY'ers are still hopeful you can make a trip to the Syracuse Nationals at some point :-)
My first guess would be that the rings on #3 and #7 are either broken, or the gaps are aligned. Pretty easy to over look that or damage a ring if you're pinched for time.
I would be very surprised if the ring gaps lined up. I took great pains to avoid that during assembly. But I'll know for sure when I tear it down. Thanks for your input.
Sorry to hear about this! Curious to see what the issue is. If it was a piston failure on this engine, I'd be looking to a different brand from now on as far as parts go. Wonder if the pistons got mixed up, as far as which one was measured for which hole at the machine shop? Will be interesting to see the cause.
Finally you post a video on my birthday, thanks Eric!
Happy Birthday!
That sucks. Hopefully it won't be too painful. Look forward to finding out why.
Hope it’s a minor issue Eric, truck looks great.
I feel your pain, brother. I hope it doesn't take a long time for you to get this straightened out. I agree with others in this comment stream, that maybe you should use a different machine shop.
Good video disappointments can happen to us all! This would be a great time to introduce your viewers to a blow by gauge Available from jegs for approx $140 This is a very effective way to measure blow by used by top pro stock racers yet remains a secret tool! It is the only test other than vacuum gauges that are dynamic(while the engine runs) you may also want to demonstrate vacuum gauges as they will reveal many internal engine problems. As an aside blow by meters originated with diesel where they are referred to as manometers Now to be a bit of an internet, Weiner, The last time I commented on your otherwise great work was over torque wrenches and fastener torque, in particular, I don't remember the exact exchange but I probably didn't think you put a high enough value on torquing fasteners I believe you referred to us a s Torque Nazis Hopefully your flex plate didn't come loose from improper torque and fastener prep! Keep up the good work and reporting the truth.
I'm a biker and we always check the ring gaps when assembling a rebuilt engine.
Nicely dressed engine!! Great job!
Just a few years ago I had a 350 chevy with a broken top ring on one cylinder that caused my rear intake manifold seal to blow out. Ring was cracked in three places and compression on that cylinder was a whopping 90psi.
Did you check the ring gap when you inspected the first engine with this issue? Breaking off the edge of the piston is almost guaranteed if you don't have enough gap.
When is the build video for the engine coming out? I can't wait to see where you bonked it. Headgasket? Under tightening the odd head.... 3 & 7 are very low.
Love the channels. Nice to see you are human too
2 engines having almost the same problem built by the same engine builders🤔
I built this engine. Kalvinator built the last. The first one failed because it wasn't properly tuned. The cause of this failure has yet to be determined.
@@ETCG1 different tuner this time?
Yes. Speculation- lol- my dipstick does same, and its the same lokar dipstick. I thought it was just the design of aftermarket part not to exact specifications. I was just going to remove dipstick and cap off the hole since it’s my race car and I don’t need to check levels, just replace regularly. Maybe i should do compression test, buts it’s a new built engine and only 1100mi. My engine shakenbwas supposed to be from the cam. Dagnabit, I feel like you just made me charge the wife’s CC.
My dipstick did fit loosely and came out easily, but I also feel I have a problem with too much crankcase pressure that I need to look into.
Can't remember the last time I did a compression test on each cylinder. Eric there's easier ways of conducting your tests sir. A synced relative compression test with a pulse sensor on the dipstick tube would pinpoint which cylinders are at fault. Sorry to hear about the excessive blow by. I'm assuming cylinder wash has been ruled out(you mentioned a lean condition, how about pcm fuel compensation over fueling certain cylinders)
Classic pull plug and crank, blow by should stop on the one that has no pressure.
wobbly sauce correct, unless of course it's a multiple cylinder issue. The testing i suggested identifies the compromised cylinder(s), and confirms excessive blow by on those suspect cylinders. Instead of doing a compression test one by one. May have to block off the pcv system as the blow by pressure can be dampened by a cylinder on its induction stroke. So not only is a blow by a concern, but also a weak induction stroke for the cylinder(s) that's inhaling during the compression of the suspect cylinder(s)
If that is the case, it should reduce/change pattern.
wobbly sauce correctamundo
I don't feel more testing is necessary at this point. It's obvious to me that it is an issue with too much crankcase pressure. No matter what the engine will need to be removed and disassembled to find the true cause.
I've had a similar experience. Come to find out that some lobes were wore down on the cam. Also caused a fire going down the road when oil sprayed on headers. Lol
I don't see how that could cause excessive crankcase pressure.
VERY VERY GOOD VIDEO, thumbs up to you.
My birthday was yesterday so this is the closest I'll get. Thank you.
Happy Birthday!
@@ETCG1 Thank you Eric!
So, is your engine builder giving you a discount for the free advertising that you're doing for him? = )
Eric, I am sure you know but there are so many reason the truck should be running cooler that the Fairmont. The two thing that come to mind are the area of the radiators and the truck does not have an inter-cooler.
Yes, and also the massive radiator. It's the biggest radiator you can put into a GMT400. Also I have a separate trans cooler.
Yes makes sense, crankcase pressure blowing out dipstick, wonder if it would be worth doing a cylinder leakage test on it first...
No point in my mind. I know I need to remove the engine and disassemble it to see what the real cause is no matter what. Thanks for your input.
Wasn’t that the same machine shop that built the engine for the Fairmont? If so then they screwed up on 2 out of 2 engines for you? That sucks, hopefully it’s not to tedious for you to fix 🤙🏽 looks beautiful though.
They didn't screw up the first one, it knocked so badly it broke a piston.
I think ignition timing is to blame on both engines. Fuck distributors.
A new engine will often have excess blow by and oil burning until they are run in, the ring gaps being aligned may also be the cause as well as excessive gap and a ring that breaks during piston insertion.
I don't think that's likely. I made sure the rings were well spaced when I installed them.
Seems like a piston and/or ring clearance issue or faulty part if it was there all the time. Have seen head gaskets partially fail also and bleed off compression that way, but that normally results in a very dead cylinder. Hopefully a simple enough fix given it's not making any terrible noises.
Rule of thumb is with a working Pcv valve installed and your hand over the other valve cover vent it should build a crankcase vacuum. My BBC does anyway
Thanks Eric, it is actually my birthday today!
Happy Birthday!
Best of luck Eric. I know you'll figure it out, but bummer you have to pull the engine again though. Also btw, that engine bay looks sick, im drooling looking at it. 👍
I hope it is found soon. So sorry, man. I wish you great luck.
The truck is still drivable for short distances. I just have to keep oil in it. Right now I have a ton of editing to catch up on and other vehicles to drive. Once I'm past the editing, I'll pull the engine and take a look. Thanks for the comment.
Sorry you have to pull the engine again, but man are we getting some good content over here. :-)
That's the way I'm choosing to look at it.
What about disabling suspect cylinder and carrying out paper test again? That should help further confirm your suspicion.
Classic pull plug and crank, blow by should stop on the one that has no pressure.
The cylinder will still create compression even without an ignition event. That was proved by the compression test.
@@ETCG1 just take the parkplug out and turn it on with that cylinder disabled and do the paper test , then you can pinpoint where's the issue at ..
@@ETCG1 Yeah what the other two said. Just thinking it some more, the peak in cylinder pressure during the ignition firing event is many times that of cranking compression. I wouldn't be surprised if that's the majority of when blow by occurs but not sure. I reckon try it with ign disabled on that cylinder first just to see and then yeah one without spark plug in too.
No matter what the engine will need to be removed, disassembled, and inspected. With that in mind, in my opinion, more testing is a waste of time. I know there is excessive pressure in the crankcase. The only thing that can cause that is compression getting into the crankcase. The only way to know the true cause is to disassemble and inspect the parts involved with making and maintaining compression.
Your break in procedure is why Imo but anyways great video
Imagine that a ford runs better than a Chevy ... lol just kidding man hope you get her all figured out and running smooth
It is probably a bad muffler bearing. Replace that, and install a throttle body spacer and it should get better. Running a higher oil/fuel mix ratio will probably resolve it completely. For instance 32:1 instead of 50:1. Hope this helps!
Well spoken. I like your vids. Subbed
I've seen this issue before. Weak rings or incorrect ring gap sucks it has to come out again. Inported parts and north America engines just don't seem to get along....
Steve Earle working on cars. Nice!!!
Have done a wet and dry comp test ? Cylinder leakage test ? Or tried swapping out the pcv? Baffles in the rocker covers adequate? Good luck with all !
The motor looks nice.
Just pull the number 7 plug out and redo that paper test. If no change try pulling number 3 spark plug. I think pulling the engine without verifying the issue is going to give you more headache down the line if everything in the engine checks out. Also do you have the intake sucking crank case air? If not, it all could be down to that. Some engines require their crank case air to be sucked by the vacuum.
I've already tried changing out the PCV valve with no change. Thanks for your input.
For some reason when i went to check my oil today, last couple inches of dipstick does not go in smoothly. It felt like something metal was in the way and rubbing against it, have to force it alittle in order to seat the dipstick.
On a new rebuild , shouldn't your compression numbers be a little closer to each other????
I got a question, why i feel so much crank pressure coming out of the oil dip stick pipe on these Earth Dream engines on civic and fit? It feels almost like too much blowby and piston rings going bad yet the engines perform. well.
Hi there, u did mention about a little exhaust leak, is it coming from manifold,and how did u fix the exhaust leak?
Also if this is a new motor you may just have blow by because the rings haven’t seated yet.
I wonder about the mentality of those who ranted about a loose screw in the flex would cause blowby :D My theory is the same as yours, some ring is defective or broken.
I'am Yout Newest Subscriber Great Videos
Same problem with a 454 with whipple
Hey Eric. I was just curious would the cylinder walls look any different looking through the spark plug hole with a boroscope? I'm. Not suggesting this for you. I'm actually asking for myself. My 6.0ls with prob close to 300k miles. is having the oil dipstick pop up a little. and I believe I have low oil pressure. I didn't know if I would see anything to give me an idea of one of the pistons could uabe a ring issue. Truck rims fine otherwise. Doesn't overheat or anything. I just wamt to figure out what's happemeomg before it becomes a catastrophic problem. I love my truck and want to keep it going. It's also it's also my daily driver and don't have a lift to just pull it out easily. I'll do it if I have to I just hope to pinpoint exactly what needs to be done so I can prepare and hopefully get it fixed quickly once I start so I'm not without a vehicle longer than I have to be. Thanks!
Remember the old Tahoe 5.3L with the miss and it turned out the piston ring gaps ended up lining up and causing a miss? I bet something similar happened here.
I don't think that's likely. I took great pains to make sure that didn't happen when I assembled it. But I'll find out when I take it apart. Thanks for the input.
My mazda demio zj engine blow off the engine oil through the dip stick pipe what could be the cause and what's the solution?
With installing an piston it is not hard to damage some rings. I had it happen before once. And than you notice it when you start it up😑
Every piston went in fine as you'll see in future videos, but I'll find out for sure when I disassemble the engine. Thanks for your input.
Am I the only one running compression at 225psi. 3.75 stroke/ 4.07 bore useing .06 rings -5cc valve relief pistons 64cc chamber. Cam .55lift@.50 260@.50 250@.50. I've never had a problem except for when I ran into a gas station that tries to trick you into getting 93 by switching them from the right to the left and I accidentally got 87 as soon as I got on the highway I noticed I tried to make it to the next exit but by that time I'd already broken a piston ring. And man could you hear her pinging. I don't know how I didn't bend a rod or crack a piston. My question is why have I had engines that under a compression test would hit 190 psi and could not run even the best of 93 octane without detonation. Timing spark plugs spark plug gap didn't matter would not run on 93 without pinging. But this engine which is 225 to 227. Will run on 89 all day as long as it's not 105 degrees out side. I built my engine from the ground up and purposely did a ultra light rotating assembly with a heavy flywheel. I'm just a normal mechanic not a race engine builder. did take the time to polish my combustion chamber
It needs a turbo to fix that..... just kidding. Good luck fixing the motor. Oil leaks suck any way they happen. Fingers crossed for an easy fix.
Could be an overlapping ring keeping it from expanding fully. Hope u get it sorted. sorry u have to yank the motor again. Thanks for posting.
I haven't had it blow out but when I remove it there is oil all the way up to the handle. Could that have the same cause?
Iv just put a second hand straight 6 in my ford Ute and there is a fair amount of pressure coming out of the dipstick is it safe to say it is a compression problem?
That's a beautiful engine
GM sent out new dip sticks that lock on to the tube.
cant have electronic cake. have electronic diabeties
Dang, that's bad luck!
Pretty engine!
I had a oil pump not making enough pressure and made the rings go bad do to bad oil pressure
Great video Eric
Looking great
It sucks when stuff like this happens but stay dirty you will fix it in notime 😀