Just my type of video! Interesting of course! Informative and to the point, everything I wanted to know explained nicely. I am just about to re veneer a table and was curious about the problem of a contact cement. Well explained, thank you!
Thank you! About to cherry or teak veneer a door so nice to see this. Encouraged but also having a healthy skepticism, I spoke with Titebond to make sure the glue would hold up after being partially dried and then heated. They said that absolutely it would hold up. Their only suggestion was to let the glue completely dry before joining the veneer to the substrate and then iron it. They said that the heat melts the glue which allows it to reform as a single layer. However, I'd be concerned about the completely dry glue becoming stiff, rendering the veneer more difficult to work with. Sticking with partially dry. Thank you again. Very nice video.
Thanks, glad it helped. The first coat should be “almost dry” . I have never used the FSV adhesive, so I can comment on how it would go. The Osmo oil is a simple and easy to use product. I love it.
It still is the Best video about how to do it. I have shared the link several times on Facebook in a speaker diy group, to People Who do not know how to apply veneer. And I also got confident to do My freinds speaker boxes after waching your video. So thanx a lot for sharing.
@@thomasjepsen3280 I know exactly where that is! Unrelated, but there is a guy in Denmark that I follow on Instagram named egevaerk.. heard of him? He’s an artist / sculptor. Very cool stuff
This is the first and only source I have found that states titebond 3 can be ironed successfully. I had wanted to use it but without having assurance of longevity or causing cracking I just bought a few more Litres.,.. being titebond Original. I'm pleased to see a large area being done as I'm aiming to do some large subwoofer cabinets. Thanks for sharing your work.
Do you think you can add a pinned comment about various considerations and cautions regarding this method? I’ve been skimming through comments and a lot of people are asking the same questions so it might be helpful for anyone in the future. You can include things like the iron’s heat setting, veneer backing and thickness, and the glue type. Additionally, if you’ve noticed any other drawbacks, considerations, or cautionary notes, that would be nice to add. Lastly, thanks! This video has been really helpful, especially seeing you use this technique on such a large piece.
Great video, it is very helpful! have just removed a teak veneer that was lifting splintering on an indoor table. Sanding and repairing the substrate now. Have a new sheet of teak and am almost ready to proceed. When I removed the top veneer, I left the edge banding. In the video you mentioned trimming with a router if I heard correctly. What type of router bit?
@@bestwoodworking6062 Not sure I fully understand the question for sanding - I am a home wood worker - so belt sander, palm sander and hand sanding. Are you thinking I would sand the overhanging veneer? The main surface being veneered is a table - so the corners are quite visible.
@@allenolsen4362 Alan, that is essentially what I’m suggesting. If you have a veneered edge similar to what I had on the door, then sending is the actual best way to deal with that edge as opposed to a rotor. Once the edges Bins said it flush, then you’re seeing will be very very seamless looking. Does that make sense?
@@bestwoodworking6062 Thanks - so after ironing trim it close and then sand the edges/corners. Suggestion on sanding? I am guessing Hand sanding? Presume sanding should not be done on a horizontal nor vertical angle. Really appreciate your guidance!
@@allenolsen4362not sure if it’s convenient to do, but feel free to call me on my cell phone if you wish, sometimes it’s easier.. where are you in this world? 9052690953
It sure will Bill, the cautionary note would be related to the “porosity” of the veneer on its own.. it will work really well with maple or beech for example , and less well with oak and ash or other species like that. Depending on how much glue you use. Make sense?
Great video. Is the first glue coat dry before adding second coat and what heat setting are you using on the iron? I have a walnut veneer project and am planning to use FSV adhesive but will try this as well. Like the finish and much more user friendly than precat. Thanks
Just the kind of informative video I love - thank you for sharing! We are getting ready to try this method on 2 inset panels in an exterior door with African Mahogany veneer. I'm wondering how much titebond we'll need for an area approximately 2' x 8'. Think we could cut the veneer to size before applying or is it better to trim after ironing down? Any suggestions what sealer would work best in a hot, coastal environment? Our door takes a beating - all day sun exposure with hot, humid, salty air.
Thanks for the kind words, regarding the trimming, I would leave it close then trim. Reading how much glue, two even coats on each face. As of late, I’ve been using a roller with a little mine nap, like a 10mm. The salty air and the like, I would use something like an Osmo oil for both sealer and topcoat, because they are an oil wax combo. Otis is a good brand. Also is the type of finish that you wipe on, let’s sit for a little while and then you wipe off the access. Hopefully you’re familiar with that.
@@bestwoodworking6062 Great suggestions re trimming & glue application. We do have some experience with oil-based sealers & expect Osmo oil will last much longer than the water based sealer we tried last year. Thanks again for sharing your tips and expertise!
Another similar method is to two coats of glue on the substrate, the first coat at 50/50 water and glue, let dry, then another coat at full strength and let dry completely. You can set it aside for whenever you are ready, cut it to shape, put the veneer on and iron. It's pretty full proof.
So no glue on the veneer? Also If the subtrate is mdf wouldn't the 50 water cause the mdf to swell? I want a proven method that avoids applying glue to the veneer because I heard it wrinkles and curls the veneer.
I have not tried this but I think it has merit based on a test run yesterday. So far, I found that any glue on the veneer (because it has a kraft paper backing) tends to ripple like crazy. I don't see any reason at this point that you could not just apply the glue to the substrate extra thick, and Then lay the veneer on top and start ironing. Less chance for the veneer to ripple. Water and thin veneer is not a great combo! If the glue is mostly dry, I think it would work better. Don't put the veneer into wet glue! You are essentially making a heat activated glue, similar to veneer edging. I mentioned elsewhere too, stay away from the aluminum based irons or use a silicone release sheet. You can easily stain light colored woods. The other thing that I found is don't over saturate your surface with oils or stains either. If your stain starts to penetrate the kraft paper, It can't darken more than the wood and it shows through the veneer. In theory the glue should provide a barrier, but I found in a couple of cases the backing got stained and caused issues. Probably better off just applying a finish and not using oils at all or a very thin oil. I am still experimenting here, but there are some unique issues with this technique. And I would be cautious about letting the glue set up too much before you start gluing. You can basically start ironing as soon as it's tack free. If the glue set up overnight I think it would be harder to soften again. wood glues get super brittle and hard. No experience here, but I would think working with a freshly applied glue would be better.
Very interesting. I've been a woodworker for 53 years and I've never tried this before. I do custom picture framing and I have adhered fabric to cardboard (mat board) before and I do recall you could use an iron if you had a problem area that would not adhere. I had not considered laying down wood veneer this way. I will have to watch this one more time but you're using a standard kraft paper backed veneer? I would think there would be an issue with expansion and contraction, but apparently not. I can say if this works the cost differs between a pressure sensitive adhesive and a paperback veneer is huge. Are you thinning the Titebond III wood glue? If so, how much? I've used foam rollers before. Is that what you are using?
Thanks again for the reply. I'm curious where you get your veneers from? I tried one panel yesterday about 2 feet by 3 feet. I thought because it was so super thin I would just put the glue on the substrate and then put the veneer into the wet glue and then iron. I've done this with canvas and fabric, but never wood. Nope, rippled like crazy. My thinking was because the veneer was so thin that if I applied it directly to the veneer it was going to ripple. Even though I screwed up I still was able to take the hot iron and go over the surface and got it totally flat. I used a silicone release sheet. Caution to anybody else if you're using an aluminum based iron you can stain the wood. Use either kraft paper or a Teflon coated iron. The silicone release sheet seemed to work okay for me and nothing sticks to them. They are cheap on Amazon. Veneers have gotten so hyper thin these days (.006-.009) that I ended up sanding with some 320 grit using a styrofoam sanding pad. NO Machine sanding! I would not use a piece of wood either--too stiff. One thing I found is if the stain gets through the veneer and starts penetrating the kraft paper backing it will stain and then show through the veneer! Rift cut oak in my case. Later today I'm going to see if I can apply glue directly to the veneer without it totally rippling. I think one of the issues for me is the the veneer I'm using (from China) is thinner than normal. It was only $20 for a two foot by 8 foot piece, so not the best quality. No doubt this technique will work better with a higher quality veneer. The technique definitely has merit. And I think I would work from the center out. I noticed on the demo you started at a corner. I'm still not sure of the correct heat setting. Somebody said wool, another person said cotton and there's a pretty big difference between the two. I'm not sure it matters too much. I think the bigger key is how quickly you move the iron over the surface. Very long time woodworkers, but again this is one technique I have not tried before. Doing a van build right now. I would definitely do some practice runs even though it cost money in wasted material. There is definitely a learning curve here.
I was searching through so many videos and finally found yours. Its exactly what I needed to see. I bought an old house with veneered outer doors that are in need of new veneer.What glue brand did you use?
Hi Angie, thanks for reaching out, sorry for the late reply. In the video I referenced titebond three adhesive as it’s the one that I find has the most filler and gap feeling properties that allow it to be interlaced with the layer below it.
Hey there, port hope is where I am, and please feel free to call me if you need some guidance with regard to veneer sourcing as there are a few things I can offer. 9052690953.
You bet! Titebond 111 is an outdoor glue with lots of solids and is wayerproof. That’s why I use it. Try an oil finish if possible, it will hold up better in the sun!
I’m currently setting a new layer of veneer on my dinning table. And have a question, after stained, can I use a few layers of poly to ensure longest durability? Or would you recommend something else?
Hi there! If i'm using this method on ply with an existing (newish)veneer, do i need to remove that veneer, or is it fine to just sand at 80 grit and then use this method? Thanks!
Hey there, thanks for reaching out. I like to use the adage that if it is a sound surface, then it’s fine to re-veneer onto. If you do have any obvious holes or cracks, if you good idea to put some filler into those before you put the neuron so that you don’t transfer that hole into the face.
Hey there, thanks for reaching out. I like to use the adage that if it is a sound surface, then it’s fine to re-veneer onto. If you do have any obvious holes or cracks, if you good idea to put some filler into those before you put the neuron so that you don’t transfer that hole into the face.
kostasvgt sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I got distracted. YES you can use this approach on curved surfaces. Be cautious to ensure that the surface is as smooth as you can make it. If you need to, bondo (yes, for cars) works well to help even out any flat spots on your curve. The tite bond will stick to it no problem.
so i have this deanb guitar iam doing for someone and he wants it to olook like a sdpascific guitar well the original has a flame top and they usedtransparent paint to make flames so you can see the wood g rain thren painted black to cover all but thhe flames., wonderin if i couold do this method for this projectg.?
Fantastic video. Couple of questions if you have the time. 1. How dry is the glue between applications on both surfaces? Are they put on one right after the other? 2. How dry does the glue have to be before assembling the pieces with the iron? Is there such a thing as being too dry? 3. Is there an optimal temp setting for the iron? Should it be a iron with a Teflon surface? 4. Can this procedure be done over existing veneers? Also, If the surface or edges have been repaired with a product like 3M wood repair (i.e bondo) or other wood filler, will this method still work?
Thanks man, I’m glad it helped! 1. “Tacky” 2. Not “tacky” so you can still move them around a little to locate the alignment you want. 3. Max heat, no steam.. 4. Yes, I do it all the time, as long as the surface below is sound and without loose material.
Well, I would have to say that the thicker, the slower for the iron. I would take a guess at 1/8” max, but I haven’t had the need to do something that thick.
So, considering that wood is an insulator rather than a conductor of heat, the hotter the better to ensure that the glue has an opportunity to cross link.. hope that helps!
@@bestwoodworking6062 no just normal thin veneer. Any tips on avoiding wrinkles and curls on non-paper backed veneer? I heard spray misting water on both sides and letting dry before applying glue helps....
Ok, for the most success possible, I would suggest you focus on the woods that have a closed grain structure, also known as less porous look to them. The reason for this is because the glue is less likely to soak through the veneer and onto the face. Oak (both white and red) allow the glue to come through face, which will effect the finish, regardless of the adhesive we use. maple, however non-diffuse, porous wood, a.k.a. Tight grain, or dense, is much less likely to allow the glue to telegraph in the face. Does that make sense? The paperback provides a barrier for the adhesive..
Absolutely. Just take care to ensure that the veneer you’re using is sound. By that, I mean that it can handle having glue put on the back without coming through the front.. sometimes when veneer is sliced, it is somewhat porous, and depending on the species, say, oak, it is quite thin. You’ll have a hard time sanding the face of glue goes through the pores. Make sense?
FEBRIZIOtv just checked, give it a go, it is a PVA. The main reason I like the titebond is the amount of solids in it, but try it, and see how it goes. Do a test, and Let me know if it works ok for you. If not, I’ll try it on my end with that glue.
I have a suggestion for improved video editing. Your deleted all the parts you thought were repetitive, redundant or boring. Instead of deleting them, speed up and mute the boring parts. Suppose that you have 15 long minutes of raw footage of step one of veneering the door, and you have 15 long minutes of raw unedited step 2, etc. In this video you split step one into two segments: (A) the first 10 seconds of applying glue and (B) the remaining 14 minutes of applying glue. Then you deleted the entire second boring half of glue being applied. It was like.watching one paint stroke, and then BAM! Whole thing done. Instead of deleting everything, mute the audio ofthe long stretches and time-lapse (speed up) too. That is, the first 10 second of step [x] should be shown at normal speed. The last 14 minutes of step one should be sped up to 10 times normal speed and have the audio track deleted. I saw you painting on the first stripe glue at normal speed. I then want to see all of the glue being rolled on at 10 times normal speed with audio for the time lapsed part deleted. Dont delete all of that video; instead time lapse it. Don't time-lapse the whole process. If you were to put up a picket fence, have the first picket done at normal speed.and with audio. only time lapse pickets 2, 3, 4, through picket number 28. Turning real time video into time lapse is easy. I downloaded a free program off the internet to do it more than 10 years ago. First split the video track in half, then timelapse (speed up) the second half of the video segment.
Yep, each time he grabbed the camera person by the ear and dragged them over, then he would curse them out and slap them twice across the face. Oh wait, what I saw was just clear instructions to bring camera in closer. I guess your jobs were a little different and still living in your mother's basement you still get treated the same. "Hey John, please bring the camera just a little bit closer you sweet wonderful person. That's a good boy, your so good at following directions. I will give you a treat after this."
This is fantastic. I have been searching and searching on how to get a more modern cabinet look and finally - YOU! Thank you so much for this vid
kimberly kline you’re very welcome. Let me know if you have any other questions related or unrelated!
Just my type of video! Interesting of course! Informative and to the point, everything I wanted to know explained nicely. I am just about to re veneer a table and was curious about the problem of a contact cement. Well explained, thank you!
Thank you! About to cherry or teak veneer a door so nice to see this. Encouraged but also having a healthy skepticism, I spoke with Titebond to make sure the glue would hold up after being partially dried and then heated. They said that absolutely it would hold up. Their only suggestion was to let the glue completely dry before joining the veneer to the substrate and then iron it. They said that the heat melts the glue which allows it to reform as a single layer. However, I'd be concerned about the completely dry glue becoming stiff, rendering the veneer more difficult to work with. Sticking with partially dry. Thank you again. Very nice video.
If you have any problems, reach out! Here’s my cell.. 9052690953. Send me a text before you call, if you need some help!
Thanks, glad it helped. The first coat should be “almost dry” . I have never used the FSV adhesive, so I can comment on how it would go. The Osmo oil is a simple and easy to use product. I love it.
Thank you for the tutorial. You've renewed my hope in finishing my piece.
It still is the Best video about how to do it. I have shared the link several times on Facebook in a speaker diy group, to People Who do not know how to apply veneer. And I also got confident to do My freinds speaker boxes after waching your video. So thanx a lot for sharing.
That’s great Thomas, where are you located? Just curious.
@@bestwoodworking6062 I live in Danmark if you know where that is😂
Can not share a picture with you here it seems.
@@thomasjepsen3280 I know exactly where that is! Unrelated, but there is a guy in Denmark that I follow on Instagram named egevaerk.. heard of him? He’s an artist / sculptor. Very cool stuff
This is the first and only source I have found that states titebond 3 can be ironed successfully. I had wanted to use it but without having assurance of longevity or causing cracking I just bought a few more Litres.,.. being titebond Original.
I'm pleased to see a large area being done as I'm aiming to do some large subwoofer cabinets.
Thanks for sharing your work.
can i use titebond coldpress veneer glue for this method? will it work?
Do you think you can add a pinned comment about various considerations and cautions regarding this method? I’ve been skimming through comments and a lot of people are asking the same questions so it might be helpful for anyone in the future.
You can include things like the iron’s heat setting, veneer backing and thickness, and the glue type. Additionally, if you’ve noticed any other drawbacks, considerations, or cautionary notes, that would be nice to add.
Lastly, thanks! This video has been really helpful, especially seeing you use this technique on such a large piece.
Great video. Where would one purchase a large sheet of veneer like you used? Readily available?
Where in the world are you?
Great short, clear video. Wish you had many more!
Thanks! I appreciate the positive comment!
Great video, it is very helpful! have just removed a teak veneer that was lifting splintering on an indoor table. Sanding and repairing the substrate now. Have a new sheet of teak and am almost ready to proceed. When I removed the top veneer, I left the edge banding. In the video you mentioned trimming with a router if I heard correctly. What type of router bit?
What kind of sanding options do you have for the surface?
@@bestwoodworking6062 Not sure I fully understand the question for sanding - I am a home wood worker - so belt sander, palm sander and hand sanding. Are you thinking I would sand the overhanging veneer? The main surface being veneered is a table - so the corners are quite visible.
@@allenolsen4362 Alan, that is essentially what I’m suggesting. If you have a veneered edge similar to what I had on the door, then sending is the actual best way to deal with that edge as opposed to a rotor. Once the edges Bins said it flush, then you’re seeing will be very very seamless looking. Does that make sense?
@@bestwoodworking6062 Thanks - so after ironing trim it close and then sand the edges/corners. Suggestion on sanding? I am guessing Hand sanding? Presume sanding should not be done on a horizontal nor vertical angle. Really appreciate your guidance!
@@allenolsen4362not sure if it’s convenient to do, but feel free to call me on my cell phone if you wish, sometimes it’s easier.. where are you in this world? 9052690953
Nice job! Informative. Does it work with non-fabric backed veneer?
It sure will Bill, the cautionary note would be related to the “porosity” of the veneer on its own.. it will work really well with maple or beech for example , and less well with oak and ash or other species like that. Depending on how much glue you use. Make sense?
It sure does
Great video. Is the first glue coat dry before adding second coat and what heat setting are you using on the iron? I have a walnut veneer project and am planning to use FSV adhesive but will try this as well. Like the finish and much more user friendly than precat. Thanks
Just the kind of informative video I love - thank you for sharing! We are getting ready to try this method on 2 inset panels in an exterior door with African Mahogany veneer. I'm wondering how much titebond we'll need for an area approximately 2' x 8'. Think we could cut the veneer to size before applying or is it better to trim after ironing down? Any suggestions what sealer would work best in a hot, coastal environment? Our door takes a beating - all day sun exposure with hot, humid, salty air.
Thanks for the kind words, regarding the trimming, I would leave it close then trim. Reading how much glue, two even coats on each face. As of late, I’ve been using a roller with a little mine nap, like a 10mm. The salty air and the like, I would use something like an Osmo oil for both sealer and topcoat, because they are an oil wax combo. Otis is a good brand. Also is the type of finish that you wipe on, let’s sit for a little while and then you wipe off the access. Hopefully you’re familiar with that.
@@bestwoodworking6062 Great suggestions re trimming & glue application. We do have some experience with oil-based sealers & expect Osmo oil will last much longer than the water based sealer we tried last year. Thanks again for sharing your tips and expertise!
Another similar method is to two coats of glue on the substrate, the first coat at 50/50 water and glue, let dry, then another coat at full strength and let dry completely. You can set it aside for whenever you are ready, cut it to shape, put the veneer on and iron. It's pretty full proof.
So no glue on the veneer?
Also If the subtrate is mdf wouldn't the 50 water cause the mdf to swell?
I want a proven method that avoids applying glue to the veneer because I heard it wrinkles and curls the veneer.
I have not tried this but I think it has merit based on a test run yesterday. So far, I found that any glue on the veneer (because it has a kraft paper backing) tends to ripple like crazy. I don't see any reason at this point that you could not just apply the glue to the substrate extra thick, and Then lay the veneer on top and start ironing. Less chance for the veneer to ripple. Water and thin veneer is not a great combo! If the glue is mostly dry, I think it would work better. Don't put the veneer into wet glue! You are essentially making a heat activated glue, similar to veneer edging. I mentioned elsewhere too, stay away from the aluminum based irons or use a silicone release sheet. You can easily stain light colored woods. The other thing that I found is don't over saturate your surface with oils or stains either. If your stain starts to penetrate the kraft paper, It can't darken more than the wood and it shows through the veneer. In theory the glue should provide a barrier, but I found in a couple of cases the backing got stained and caused issues. Probably better off just applying a finish and not using oils at all or a very thin oil. I am still experimenting here, but there are some unique issues with this technique. And I would be cautious about letting the glue set up too much before you start gluing. You can basically start ironing as soon as it's tack free. If the glue set up overnight I think it would be harder to soften again. wood glues get super brittle and hard. No experience here, but I would think working with a freshly applied glue would be better.
Very interesting. I've been a woodworker for 53 years and I've never tried this before. I do custom picture framing and I have adhered fabric to cardboard (mat board) before and I do recall you could use an iron if you had a problem area that would not adhere. I had not considered laying down wood veneer this way. I will have to watch this one more time but you're using a standard kraft paper backed veneer? I would think there would be an issue with expansion and contraction, but apparently not. I can say if this works the cost differs between a pressure sensitive adhesive and a paperback veneer is huge.
Are you thinning the Titebond III wood glue? If so, how much? I've used foam rollers before. Is that what you are using?
Feel free to to reach out by cell if it suits you, I’m in Ontario. 905 269 0953. Where in this world are you, Troy?
Btw, no, I don’t think the glue.
Thanks again for the reply. I'm curious where you get your veneers from? I tried one panel yesterday about 2 feet by 3 feet. I thought because it was so super thin I would just put the glue on the substrate and then put the veneer into the wet glue and then iron. I've done this with canvas and fabric, but never wood. Nope, rippled like crazy. My thinking was because the veneer was so thin that if I applied it directly to the veneer it was going to ripple. Even though I screwed up I still was able to take the hot iron and go over the surface and got it totally flat. I used a silicone release sheet. Caution to anybody else if you're using an aluminum based iron you can stain the wood. Use either kraft paper or a Teflon coated iron. The silicone release sheet seemed to work okay for me and nothing sticks to them. They are cheap on Amazon. Veneers have gotten so hyper thin these days (.006-.009) that I ended up sanding with some 320 grit using a styrofoam sanding pad. NO Machine sanding! I would not use a piece of wood either--too stiff. One thing I found is if the stain gets through the veneer and starts penetrating the kraft paper backing it will stain and then show through the veneer! Rift cut oak in my case. Later today I'm going to see if I can apply glue directly to the veneer without it totally rippling. I think one of the issues for me is the the veneer I'm using (from China) is thinner than normal. It was only $20 for a two foot by 8 foot piece, so not the best quality. No doubt this technique will work better with a higher quality veneer. The technique definitely has merit. And I think I would work from the center out. I noticed on the demo you started at a corner. I'm still not sure of the correct heat setting. Somebody said wool, another person said cotton and there's a pretty big difference between the two. I'm not sure it matters too much. I think the bigger key is how quickly you move the iron over the surface. Very long time woodworkers, but again this is one technique I have not tried before. Doing a van build right now. I would definitely do some practice runs even though it cost money in wasted material. There is definitely a learning curve here.
I was searching through so many videos and finally found yours. Its exactly what I needed to see. I bought an old house with veneered outer doors that are in need of new veneer.What glue brand did you use?
Hi Angie, thanks for reaching out, sorry for the late reply. In the video I referenced titebond three adhesive as it’s the one that I find has the most filler and gap feeling properties that allow it to be interlaced with the layer below it.
Would 10mil white oak real wood veneer with paper back work on MDF with your recommendations?
Great video! I happen to also be located in Ontario. Where did you buy the sheets of veneer?
Hey there, port hope is where I am, and please feel free to call me if you need some guidance with regard to veneer sourcing as there are a few things I can offer. 9052690953.
May I suggest a lavaliere mic and omit the music overlay in post please. Was the temperature of the iron brought up?
Thanks, good thought if I do more vids. Re:iron, the higher the better.
Great info, thanks! Is using Titebond 2 out of the question?
This works with any pva glue, so 2 will work as well. Nice demo here as well, ua-cam.com/video/YWM7m9eAasY/v-deo.html
Is this method suitable for an exterior doo with sever sun exposure?
You bet! Titebond 111 is an outdoor glue with lots of solids and is wayerproof. That’s why I use it. Try an oil finish if possible, it will hold up better in the sun!
I’m currently setting a new layer of veneer on my dinning table. And have a question, after stained, can I use a few layers of poly to ensure longest durability? Or would you recommend something else?
Poly should be absolutely fine. Just make sure it matches the type of stain (waterborne / solvent based) so that you get proper adhesion.
Hi there! If i'm using this method on ply with an existing (newish)veneer, do i need to remove that veneer, or is it fine to just sand at 80 grit and then use this method? Thanks!
Hey there, thanks for reaching out. I like to use the adage that if it is a sound surface, then it’s fine to re-veneer onto. If you do have any obvious holes or cracks, if you good idea to put some filler into those before you put the neuron so that you don’t transfer that hole into the face.
Hey there, thanks for reaching out. I like to use the adage that if it is a sound surface, then it’s fine to re-veneer onto. If you do have any obvious holes or cracks, if you good idea to put some filler into those before you put the neuron so that you don’t transfer that hole into the face.
Does this method work in curved surfaces? Thanks for your detailed video.
kostasvgt sorry for the delay in getting back to you, I got distracted. YES you can use this approach on curved surfaces. Be cautious to ensure that the surface is as smooth as you can make it. If you need to, bondo (yes, for cars) works well to help even out any flat spots on your curve. The tite bond will stick to it no problem.
@@bestwoodworking6062 Thanks for replying...so any glue that is PVA would do the job, right?
Yes, any PVA will do, I just really like the titebond 3 because of the gap filling qualities.
Incredible, well explained, and quickly w no fluff!
Exactly what I need!
Did u sand the veneer before the poly coat?
What is the name of the glue that is used ? And how thick should the veneer be for the door?
Titebond 3
Hi, Do I have to remove the old veneer before apply the new one? or is sanding the old one smoothly good enough?
instant curry hi there, like any joint in any wood surface, it should be smooth and sound. Not much more is necessary.
All that has to be accomplished is that it’s smooth and sound.
Have you tried using one coat of clue on each side?
Wondering how important two coats is from your experience....
It seems to be about mass.. there’s a little more interlacing between the layers when the heat is applied. More consistent bond.
so i have this deanb guitar iam doing for someone and he wants it to olook like a sdpascific guitar well the original has a flame top and they usedtransparent paint to make flames so you can see the wood g rain thren painted black to cover all but thhe flames., wonderin if i couold do this method for this projectg.?
Here’s my cell number, send me a text with your name and I’ll call you back, ok? I think it’s easier this way.. 905 269 0953
Fantastic video. Couple of questions if you have the time.
1. How dry is the glue between applications on both surfaces? Are they put on one right after the other?
2. How dry does the glue have to be before assembling the pieces with the iron? Is there such a thing as being too dry?
3. Is there an optimal temp setting for the iron? Should it be a iron with a Teflon surface?
4. Can this procedure be done over existing veneers? Also, If the surface or edges have been repaired with a product like 3M wood repair (i.e bondo) or other wood filler, will this method still work?
Thanks man, I’m glad it helped! 1. “Tacky” 2. Not “tacky” so you can still move them around a little to locate the alignment you want. 3. Max heat, no steam.. 4. Yes, I do it all the time, as long as the surface below is sound and without loose material.
What's the maximum thickness veneer this would work with?
Well, I would have to say that the thicker, the slower for the iron. I would take a guess at 1/8” max, but I haven’t had the need to do something that thick.
What about using heat proof paper between the iron and the veneer?
Ok, so the thought is to protect the veneer? I’m not sure I get what you’re suggesting..
What temperature do you set the iron?
So, considering that wood is an insulator rather than a conductor of heat, the hotter the better to ensure that the glue has an opportunity to cross link.. hope that helps!
@@bestwoodworking6062 You are awesome. Thanks for the help.
Oh that’s nice, thank you very much!
Doesn't applying titebond to the veneer cause it to wrinkle and curl? I'm using thin 0.6mm veneer for my project
No sir. Your veneer.. is it paperbacked?
@@bestwoodworking6062 no just normal thin veneer. Any tips on avoiding wrinkles and curls on non-paper backed veneer? I heard spray misting water on both sides and letting dry before applying glue helps....
@@HashMeister hmm… what kind of veneeer? Oak / maple/ exotic.. my guidance will depend on that one a little..
@@bestwoodworking6062 not maple. Considering oak, walnut and exotics like Eucalyptus or Red Gum for my project.
Ok, for the most success possible, I would suggest you focus on the woods that have a closed grain structure, also known as less porous look to them. The reason for this is because the glue is less likely to soak through the veneer and onto the face. Oak (both white and red) allow the glue to come through face, which will effect the finish, regardless of the adhesive we use. maple, however non-diffuse, porous wood, a.k.a. Tight grain, or dense, is much less likely to allow the glue to telegraph in the face. Does that make sense? The paperback provides a barrier for the adhesive..
can u suggest how to stick paper backed veneer together..
Like to another veneer.. back to back? If so, you can use this process for sure.
Thank you ll give it a try
Helpful - interesting technique
That’s great, thank you. Good luck with your project!
So, can I do this with veneer that isn’t paper back?
Absolutely. Just take care to ensure that the veneer you’re using is sound. By that, I mean that it can handle having glue put on the back without coming through the front.. sometimes when veneer is sliced, it is somewhat porous, and depending on the species, say, oak, it is quite thin. You’ll have a hard time sanding the face of glue goes through the pores. Make sense?
Best Woodworking awesome. Will gorilla wood glue (type II) work? Or do I need titebond type III
FEBRIZIOtv just checked, give it a go, it is a PVA. The main reason I like the titebond is the amount of solids in it, but try it, and see how it goes. Do a test, and Let me know if it works ok for you. If not, I’ll try it on my end with that glue.
What is iron setting
As hot as it will go usually. Nothing will burn.
This video could have done without the music.
I have a suggestion for improved video editing. Your deleted all the parts you thought were repetitive, redundant or boring. Instead of deleting them, speed up and mute the boring parts. Suppose that you have 15 long minutes of raw footage of step one of veneering the door, and you have 15 long minutes of raw unedited step 2, etc. In this video you split step one into two segments: (A) the first 10 seconds of applying glue and (B) the remaining 14 minutes of applying glue. Then you deleted the entire second boring half of glue being applied. It was like.watching one paint stroke, and then BAM! Whole thing done. Instead of deleting everything, mute the audio ofthe long stretches and time-lapse (speed up) too. That is, the first 10 second of step [x] should be shown at normal speed. The last 14 minutes of step one should be sped up to 10 times normal speed and have the audio track deleted. I saw you painting on the first stripe glue at normal speed. I then want to see all of the glue being rolled on at 10 times normal speed with audio for the time lapsed part deleted. Dont delete all of that video; instead time lapse it. Don't time-lapse the whole process. If you were to put up a picket fence, have the first picket done at normal speed.and with audio. only time lapse pickets 2, 3, 4, through picket number 28. Turning real time video into time lapse is easy. I downloaded a free program off the internet to do it more than 10 years ago. First split the video track in half, then timelapse (speed up) the second half of the video segment.
Maybe treat the camera person with a little more respect?
Hey John, thanks for reaching out, I’m not exactly sure what you mean?
Yep, each time he grabbed the camera person by the ear and dragged them over, then he would curse them out and slap them twice across the face. Oh wait, what I saw was just clear instructions to bring camera in closer. I guess your jobs were a little different and still living in your mother's basement you still get treated the same. "Hey John, please bring the camera just a little bit closer you sweet wonderful person. That's a good boy, your so good at following directions. I will give you a treat after this."
@@bestwoodworking6062 He's obviously a mama's boy and probably a liberal. I didn't see anything wrong.
@@timbob987you're an idiot like your father was before you. It's good that naivety isn't a crime .
@@timbob987the guys a knob.