Ok, so i'm a new subscriber and the videos are now appearing in my feed - but this is ace. Would have always thought a blade would be best for trimming veneer!
Lee Stewart no April fools in February, I use a blunt blade every day at my job. Had the blade for years! It’s blunt on the bottom to stop cutting in and sharpish on the top to cut the veneer off, when I say sharp it’s not really but the blunt blade I use only works one way with it being used one way for years on end. No one in the factory darned go anywhere near my blade 😂
There must be a trick to trimming the veneer with sandpaper (around 5:26 in the video) that I didn't pick up on. When I try that, the veneer tends to splinter (maybe 1 or 2 mm) at the edge where it's breaking, not break nice and cleanly. The splintering isn't severe, but it is there and can be noticable. Is the trick in the angle you hold the block at, or do you do something else (like wet the veneer)? I'd really like to know how to use that technique more effectively.
So you glue the Paper side onto the substrate? I would have thought the other way around. I know such paper (from older times) to be slapped on the veneer with hide glue to be washed off afterwards. Else: Paper tends to split in the middle what is used to temporarely fix pieces together and split apart afterwards. BUT i never worked with modern paper backed veneer so i know not enough.
What grit sandpaper do you use with the block? Also I was told to use a cotton rag between iron and veneer and use medium heat only! One other thing I see you put a round over on the edges and I wonder how it doesn't show later?
Thanks, very informative. I have something similar to do, with 1.5mm thick oak veneer. No paper on the back (why is it there for anyway?). Do you think this method would work?!
the paper backed stuff comes in 4 foot by 8 foot sheets all prejointed so the paper is just a backer to hold it all together. it does help to prevent cracking under heat as well. you are pushing it a bit with 1.5mm as you need to heat it for longer for the heat to get through to the glue but the longer you heat it the more chance of it drying too much and cracking. but it is doable. if it is a tight radius then a light spray with water might help to keep the moisture up, also iron it while the glue is just on the edge of being tacky as it will have more moisture still.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Ok I understand; I should go for clamps I guess...thanks for your precise and prompt reply anyway. I appreciate your straightforward videos. Cheers from France!
daily grind!!? - geez think yourself lucky, looks like a good job to me. There's a ton of other jobs you could do, maybe go do them and you'll soon wish you were back doing this! New Yorkshire?? I'm old Yorkshire, we need some form of narration. I like the chrome socket tip to smoov the veneer down.
Ive only ever had rubbish woodworking jobs but as mundane as ironing veneer can get i do think myself lucky, for the most part i do interesting work and im my own boss which in its self is priceless!
Hi friend. Sorry for bad english..rsrsrsrs..i'm in Brazil and here we speak Portuguese ... I saw your video and liked it, but there were two doubts: 1) Can you do the same procedure using contact glue? 2) The Clothes Iron you used, was at full power, but without steam, right? Thank you very much and, having a little time, watch our videos: Officina do Rádio Antigo.
Hi, contact glue can be used but with backed veneer (paper or fleece backed) and not with iron! Just apply glue to both pieces, wait till touch dry and press together. for good quality work though the wood glue method is preferred. Yes iron is full power, no steam.
I assume you mean hide glue? I can't see how hide glue would make any difference in the finish. The purpose of the glue is to make the veneer lay down flat and stay that way. Using a vacuum press might work well enough, but hard to do on such a thing. One COULD also let the two sides of the glue dry and then it would be more like a contact cement. Again, hard to make there not be places with bubbles. This way is probably the easiest to approach one area at a time and thus keep the bubbles out of the rounded corners. Hide glue, if the object was heated, might well allow for the same thing, and it would probably allow for removal and retrying if necessary, but it wouldn't have anything to do with the finish. I don't know what type of glue is being used either. I personally rarely use waterproof glues when they are not called for. I like the ability to take things apart and repair later. Glues like Titebond do allow that, with care.
Damn good job there. Very impressive.
The sanding block method seemed so cruel but after trying it I can confirm it leaves such a better result
This guy has forgotten more than most joiners know!? 👍
Lovely job, thanks. I like the socket burnishing method.
Great videos.. I use a fine half round file for the trimming.. works a treat
ASMR potential here guys!
Ok, so i'm a new subscriber and the videos are now appearing in my feed - but this is ace. Would have always thought a blade would be best for trimming veneer!
Use a blunt blade, it cuts but glides over the material and doesn’t cut into the board your veenering
Lee Stewart no April fools in February, I use a blunt blade every day at my job. Had the blade for years! It’s blunt on the bottom to stop cutting in and sharpish on the top to cut the veneer off, when I say sharp it’s not really but the blunt blade I use only works one way with it being used one way for years on end. No one in the factory darned go anywhere near my blade 😂
@@connorscoarsefishingjourne7680 Thanks for the advice - sorry i'm a muppet. Was looking at the video published date and got carried away :-o
My Dad taught me to use a file which I have done for the last 56 years with good results.
There must be a trick to trimming the veneer with sandpaper (around 5:26 in the video) that I didn't pick up on. When I try that, the veneer tends to splinter (maybe 1 or 2 mm) at the edge where it's breaking, not break nice and cleanly. The splintering isn't severe, but it is there and can be noticable. Is the trick in the angle you hold the block at, or do you do something else (like wet the veneer)? I'd really like to know how to use that technique more effectively.
Try a rough file, it works pretty good too.
So you glue the Paper side onto the substrate? I would have thought the other way around. I know such paper (from older times) to be slapped on the veneer with hide glue to be washed off afterwards. Else: Paper tends to split in the middle what is used to temporarely fix pieces together and split apart afterwards. BUT i never worked with modern paper backed veneer so i know not enough.
What grit sandpaper do you use with the block? Also I was told to use a cotton rag between iron and veneer and use medium heat only! One other thing I see you put a round over on the edges and I wonder how it doesn't show later?
5:09 - Use a metal file instead, it's faster and leaves a perfect finish..
Thanks, very informative. I have something similar to do, with 1.5mm thick oak veneer. No paper on the back (why is it there for anyway?). Do you think this method would work?!
the paper backed stuff comes in 4 foot by 8 foot sheets all prejointed so the paper is just a backer to hold it all together. it does help to prevent cracking under heat as well. you are pushing it a bit with 1.5mm as you need to heat it for longer for the heat to get through to the glue but the longer you heat it the more chance of it drying too much and cracking. but it is doable. if it is a tight radius then a light spray with water might help to keep the moisture up, also iron it while the glue is just on the edge of being tacky as it will have more moisture still.
@@NewYorkshireWorkshop Ok I understand; I should go for clamps I guess...thanks for your precise and prompt reply anyway. I appreciate your straightforward videos. Cheers from France!
this is the point where i realized that i put the glue on the wrong side of the veneer and i smashed the wonderful iron from my wife against the wall😫
What kind of glue do you use?
The glue used in this video was Titebond 50
What is it?
I think it’s a turntable (record player) plinth.
daily grind!!? - geez think yourself lucky, looks like a good job to me. There's a ton of other jobs you could do, maybe go do them and you'll soon wish you were back doing this! New Yorkshire?? I'm old Yorkshire, we need some form of narration. I like the chrome socket tip to smoov the veneer down.
Ive only ever had rubbish woodworking jobs but as mundane as ironing veneer can get i do think myself lucky, for the most part i do interesting work and im my own boss which in its self is priceless!
I have a 10MM red oak veneer. There is no way it is that flexible.
Hi friend.
Sorry for bad english..rsrsrsrs..i'm in Brazil and here we speak Portuguese ...
I saw your video and liked it, but there were two doubts:
1) Can you do the same procedure using contact glue?
2) The Clothes Iron you used, was at full power, but without steam, right?
Thank you very much and, having a little time, watch our videos:
Officina do Rádio Antigo.
Hi, contact glue can be used but with backed veneer (paper or fleece backed) and not with iron! Just apply glue to both pieces, wait till touch dry and press together. for good quality work though the wood glue method is preferred.
Yes iron is full power, no steam.
A neat and tidy first class job mate. Great video but you really should use that blade in a proper holder. Not good when they slip.
7:55 etc You know you can get holders for your Stanley knife blades, Russ? The clue is in the name. 😉
(Made me nervous!)
For projects like this you should try and learn how to use animal glue. It will give you a much better finish.
I assume you mean hide glue? I can't see how hide glue would make any difference in the finish. The purpose of the glue is to make the veneer lay down flat and stay that way. Using a vacuum press might work well enough, but hard to do on such a thing. One COULD also let the two sides of the glue dry and then it would be more like a contact cement. Again, hard to make there not be places with bubbles. This way is probably the easiest to approach one area at a time and thus keep the bubbles out of the rounded corners. Hide glue, if the object was heated, might well allow for the same thing, and it would probably allow for removal and retrying if necessary, but it wouldn't have anything to do with the finish. I don't know what type of glue is being used either. I personally rarely use waterproof glues when they are not called for. I like the ability to take things apart and repair later. Glues like Titebond do allow that, with care.