Projecting Boulders: From Beginner to Expert
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- We're back with another popular climbing session, this time its Boulder Projecting. Similar to our previous episode, many people will be familiar with this session but may not consider it training. So we run through the basic structure and the Pros and Cons of this kind of session so that you can see how it fits into the bigger picture. It's a great form of training but many common mistakes can lead to it being ineffective in the long run.
Big thanks to The Depot Sheffield for letting us film at their wall.
As Aiden mentioned, don't make these sloper mistakes; • 3 Biggest Mistakes on ...
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The good thing about being new to climbing is that every session is a projecting session
I'm really surprised you climbed with him the whole time and didn't mention a huge tip for projecting: climb with people better than you. In my opinion, especially when you start limit bouldering, that will greatly escalate your skill. Humility to take advice and criticism from those better, and dedication to do it.
Yes totally spot on here! Great beta ;)
This is the single best piece of advice I'd give to anyone trying to improve - climb with people better than you
Something that's worth mentioning is to diversify the hold types when you project multiple boulders in a session. Projecting 4 crimpy boulders at your limit is asking for injuries (been there, done that). I tend to do crimps when I'm the most fresh and move onto bigger edges / slopers / pinches etc as my session progresses. That's just an example, same goes for shouldery moves (gaston etc). Kind of like you wouldn't go to the gym and work only biceps for 2 hours, you'd do biceps, back, shoulders, chest etc.
Thx, great tip!
The pro #5 is so true. I was so scared to even try a 7A, but once I climed my first one, the grade didn’t feel that hard after all. Now I’ve climed over 10 7As in a month.
Very helpful to see what it looks like for an experienced climber to struggle and puzzle out some bouldering problems. I’m a new to climbing and bouldering, starting late in life. Still so much fun!
I'd add that the newer approach to training, in general, is to work on raising the floor instead of the ceiling. I consider myself the grade climber of the grades I can flash consistently, not my limit grade. It's much easier to understand where I am and doesn't require limit sessions and set types to know my climbing ability.
Great video, guys! I would say one SUPER important hint with regards to projecting: to limit the number of attempts at a particular move one is struggling with (usually the crux, if the route is not way over your limit). I went super-motivated at a project back in 2017 ... my reward was golfer's (climber's) elbow. I mean, yeah, (despite my back then 47 years age, so I should have known better 😅) I ignored the first warning signs ... so kind of my own fault 🥲 ... but once I'd recovered from that (took nearly 9 months ... key point was to load it during recovery but being super careful not to go too close/over the limits, easier said than done) I decided on limiting my attempts at any one move to 3-4 times (as well as, obviously, actually listening to my body ... duh ;)!). Once I'd failed the 3rd or 4th time I'd do what was suggested here anyway: skip to the next point in the route and see about being able to finish the rest, i. e. you get to the point where you know you can do everything other than the crux, you work on the crux knowing you can crack the rest of it, then you master the crux and BOOM ... the project is done :D - a great feeling!!
Love this kind of video, it give beginner/intermediate (me) a perspective on how to approach/work/pace/think/interact/(name it) boulder session. You have a talented way to explain things.
Aiden and Magnus would be a cool collab for a bouldering projecting session
Style triad in crimpd?
i climb 2 times per week and allways proyect hahaha. when a boulder is at my limit i feel more joy trying it, not allways the case tho but mostly climb hard is more fun than doing volume sessions
Same I always warm up, project, train for a little, then cool down
All i do is projecting. I should do some more power sessions cus i feel like i'm lacking in strength sometimes. The thing is that i have done every boulder that is below my projecting grade with like 1 or 2 exceptions
Thanks for all your great videos! How long is a long rest, 3-5 minutes? Longer?
Thanks! Good question, Take at least 5 minutes rest between boulders. The rest between attempts depends on how many moves you have done. It might be just a minute if you are working individual moves or several minutes if you are making good links. You want to feel well rested when climbing which is a common mistake when projecting.
Maybe Lattice will chime in, but in my experience that answer will depend.
If it's bouldering, I'll take 3-5 minutes rest between attempts at single moves or very short links (1-3 moves) at my limit. For longer links, I'll adjust the rest depending on the number of moves and/or the amount of effort needed. This could jump into the 5-10 minute range. In between send burns, I might easily go 20 minutes of rest if there was considerable effort made in the attempt like when you fall on the last move. I don't usually time rests with a watch, but rather listen to my body and wait until I feel mentally ready to fire up again. Taking off the shoes and putting clothes back on in between attempts helps resist temptation for rapid fire attempts.
When resting for power endurance boulders 12-15+ moves, traverses, or routes, I might rest 30+ minutes. In this case, I might do one or two easy moves or hangs on a hangboard 1-2 minutes prior to giving another burn.
@@LatticeTraining thank you!
@@AlexTighe Wow thank you, that's very valuable information. I struggle with reating enough and this will definitely help!
Buy a stop watch. And time your rests.
Does crossing your wrists in front of you while resting do anything for climbers other than put your shoulders in the worst position possible???
The crossing wrists is habit many climbers do to keep their hands out in the open to help moisture evaporate off the skin, or at least to prevent too much build up. Cool and dry skin is very important when climbing at your limit.
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