I just bought a DB 880/A. It's amazing the lack of care this tractor has had, yet it still starts instantly and all horses pulling. I do need to give it some attention. I swear I just bought a 6' Dirt Dog land plane and leveled my new driveway (just dirt, no hydraulics) using forward and reverse. The engine looks like every seal and gasket has been leaking to some degree for a decade. Your videos will be invaluable in my attempt to tune her up properly. Thanks a million.
Hi thanks for watching, I believe the oils were intended to be rust proofing. only joking, but I'm please you found the video useful and decided to have a go. you support is greatly appreciated Barry
good day. Thank you for your great advice. A couple days ago I was able to get the 990 fired up. Water was in the tank for sure. had to remove the drain plug and push some debris out of the way for it to drain. I won't bore you with all the other steps but I did get most of the water out using your advice. The other thing I also did was drain the fuel cartridges, and primary pump filter. I had the battery charger on, so with less that 2 mins cranking it took two wait periods and then started up and ran well. Thanks again.
Hi thanks for the comments, it is easy but only when you've got the test rig and once you get lock nuts that work thanks for watching, very much appreciated Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 exactly my thoughts too Barry, feeling stupid after all these years thinking they were complicated lol, anyway, am stuck in the past as it is so modern stuff (computer electronics) is way out of my bracket, we have nothing agricultural stuff on my farm any older than 2003, so needless to say we can at least fix it ourselves, have three David Browns l might ad too, there here on my farm in Wisconsin, l just bought non than other a David brown 900 from my uncle who lives near market Rasen Lincs, it’s actually been refurbished, all about nostalgia lol 🙂
it's funny but when you find a business that is helpfull, knowledgeable and genuinely wants to help you do tend to stick to them as well as sing there praises, good companies deserve to be recognised thanks for watching Barry
The thread looks to be a ‘special.’ Sounds like it’s 60 degree truncated form with the major (not the true major) diameter at 0.809” or 20,55. However, remember, this is truncated so the nominal size or major diameter is more likely to be a 21,0mm. Truncating the thread is a normal/common practice and helps to prevent damage. The only way to tell for sure is to measure the ‘effective’ diameter and to do this you need some small diameter wires (small drills can also to used) and a bit of that red grease to hold them against the 60 degree flanks. Easy to reproduce on a lathe but I suspect difficult to find off the shelf.
Hi Nat, very many thanks for that i know I've learned a lot from it but I also know loads more people will also learn from it. brilliant amny thanks for the comments Barry
Hi sparks I did, I took it down to it's last component, cleaned everything and put it back together, unfortunately it was before the video series started, how ever if your looking for the support or help to do it have a look at bundybearsshed, Lance has a couple of video's on the cav pumps, there all the same, funny enough once you see it come to bits, it's not rocket science and you will manage no probs. many thanks Barry
Hi BARRY I TOOK the head off my 880 to get the valves ground should I run each piston down as far as it will go and hone the cylinders or would that make to big a mess to clean up this my first head job and I’m learning from you also I am going to put new injector nozzles in the head I TOOK OFF HAD A COPPER GASKET IS THAT STOCK FROM FACTORY COULD I RE USE THAT OR WOULD YOU USE NEW ONE THATS FIBER WITH METEL PISTION RINGS THANKS TOM B
Hi Tom, no don't hone the bores with the pistons still in as you'll end up with a two stage bore, even though it's small, I wouldn't use the copper gasket again, Try to find a replacement one, I'm not a fan of the composite gaskets, i'm on to my second one now, if you find copper ones lets know where you get them as I'll be changing mine. I find with the composite gaskets there is nothing that stops the collant transferring from the block to the head from soaking into the gasket material, the first one I put in leaked and when I took it off the gasket was soaked and corrosion had began around the head studs. So if you find a copper one lets know, Many thanks Barry
Nice work. I have a question for you about purging the water out of my DB 990 fuel system. The question is really just what is the basic procedure for purging. I’ll just see if you’re still reading these and if you are I can elaborate. But I’m mostly worried about the high pressure pump and the nozzles.
Hi Aldergate, to purge water from the fuel, start at the tank, theres a drain bung under the tank remove and drain, remove all filters, water seperation bowl and remove the timing inspection port on the pump, you need to allow all the contaminated fuel to be removed. clean, flush, wipe and replace, new filters, clean fuel and bleed through this should get rid of your problem, but then you need to work out where the water came from and prevent it from happening again. many thanks hope this helps Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hey Im Dean, and thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it and what your doing with that DB990. That all makes a ton of sense. Without running you through all the details Ill get that water out and I think it came from, either melting snow or accumulation in the water separator. Just so I'm clear, are you saying essentially if I get all the water out of the fuel lines, filters, (new filters), and the best purging I can do while the lines are free from the injectors. Then connect the injectors ( with clean fuel) it should start up after several turns. To be clear no removing the pump, or injectors? There is going to be some water in the injectors. Again thanks in advance.
Hi Dean, thats right, crack it open at even point and push clean fuel through the system, tightening up as you go along the system, one final bleed once your upto the injectors and then start it, if there's any watwer in the injectors it will get pushed out very quickly, how long has it stood with water in it? was it running? or had it stopped because of the amount of water in the system, when you take the timing cover off the DPA pump catch the liquid in and old, clean jar and let it settle, just to see if there's any water in your pump. but everything should be fine with clean fuel. many thanks and good luck Barry
just a quick question, this hasn't be outside with the exhaust left uncovered or submerged in water at some point? if so and you suspect water in the cylinders , then pull the injectors before you try and turn it.
Barry I too just bought a d.b. 880 selectamatic thank to you I got the water out of the hyd system had to drain it three times it had no hyd filter on it so now it’s got pitting on valves from rain getting exhaust so while I got head off would you clean injectors ? I don’t have a way of setting pressure like you did could I mark where nut was and get it back in place where it was?whats your openiion on this matter thanks Tom. B.
Hi Tom, the nut on the injector is just a lock nut, it's the threaded cap that sets the pressure, you could test them in away by simply poping them back on the injector pipes outside the engine and turn it over to see if they are atomising the fuel as it leaves the nozzles, shouldn't be any jets or dribble's, if it needs nozzles they're easy enough to find, but look for a simpathetic injection shop to set them up for you, for instance my local guys would supply the nozzles for between £5 and £10 and set them up for a little more. stay away from the big commercial ones, not unless you've got some spair eye's. your valves you may be able to lap the pits out with grinding paiste, again I had mine proffessionally cut and the head scimmed for £120 at a local engine engineering works. Most local companies know we're not made of money when restoring old tractors and when they can help they do, cash and a hand shake always helps as well. lets know how you get on Barry
It look's wery Nice 👍Nice sprey now and She is Ready Soon. I was wondering ....do you Know any shop in your city/area Where I can order a little/medium size box with tool's for making treat's ( bouth inside and outside tread) for cleaning treads to my massey ferguson 65 here .. So it must be same as your treats on the David Brown ( is it inch ?? 😊 ) you Know here in norway They only have millimeter treads so I need for Englich tractor haha ...like size 7/16 And down in size and allso Little bigger Than 7/16 and prize like around in the middel range . Not super cheap and not expensive. And I shop that do online and send it to norway .. Thanks so much in advanse and Thanks for the video .. She is Coming a long wery nicely . Michell. Norway 😊👍🚜
Hi Michell nice to hear form you again, I use a company call Tracy's tools in the UK, very cost effective and nearly all my tap's/die's are carbon steel as I'm only repairing threads, but they do have HSS tap's/dies as well. really good prices. thanks and your viewing is very much appreciated Barry
Thanks so much Barry I Will try look that web page Today so I can look there and find like 7/16 UNC and like fine treads (F) Nice ud I can find a Little box for the tractor because it Goes so easy when its clean wich I like wery much ..Thanks so much for your Help Barry.. See you Soon.. have a Nice sunday . Michell. NORWAY 😊👍🚜 🚜 🚜
@@Masseyferguson65 Hi Michell, I've just had a look at tray tools and they have 7/16" unc and UNF for £3.00 per tap you'll find them very reasonable for tools and really quick with the postage love your vid's Barry
Probably was a M26x1.5mm, turned down to 1 inch out diameter, hense the square on thread top, a special, not run of the mill thread, possibly for a reason like trying to thread on thin walls etc.
@@manfromthemist1958 If I'm right will still have to cut the missing part of the thread if the nut is of the same type. In a normal cut M16x 1.5mm nut (still not the standard pitch for 16mm), that special bolt will work fine. Seen many peculiarities of the sort when mixing imperial and metric products and markets, like my UK made Case1694. (David Brown actually) Love your content. Have a good day.
I just bought a DB 880/A. It's amazing the lack of care this tractor has had, yet it still starts instantly and all horses pulling. I do need to give it some attention. I swear I just bought a 6' Dirt Dog land plane and leveled my new driveway (just dirt, no hydraulics) using forward and reverse. The engine looks like every seal and gasket has been leaking to some degree for a decade. Your videos will be invaluable in my attempt to tune her up properly. Thanks a million.
Hi thanks for watching, I believe the oils were intended to be rust proofing. only joking, but I'm please you found the video useful and decided to have a go.
you support is greatly appreciated
Barry
Good job I love seeing a old David Brown getting s rebuild I have a 880 well in need off the same
Many thanks bifish, I'm so please you enjoy the video's
Barry
good day. Thank you for your great advice. A couple days ago I was able to get the 990 fired up. Water was in the tank for sure. had to remove the drain plug and push some debris out of the way for it to drain. I won't bore you with all the other steps but I did get most of the water out using your advice. The other thing I also did was drain the fuel cartridges, and primary pump filter. I had the battery charger on, so with less that 2 mins cranking it took two wait periods and then started up and ran well. Thanks again.
brilliant ,pleased you got it going
Barry
Nice work there.
You manage to make it look quite simple to adjust them.
💪🚜
Can't wait to see the tractor fire up then!
Hi thanks for the comments, it is easy but only when you've got the test rig and once you get lock nuts that work
thanks for watching, very much appreciated
Barry
75% success rate, well done Barry, can't wait for you to fire it up, keep the vids coming.
Hi Ken, 3 out of 4 can't be bad, hopefully on tuesday it'll be 4 out of 4. fingers crossed
Thanks for taking the time to watch
Barry
Very nice video thanks, l did exactly the same with my Fordson diesel major, bought an injector tester, pop pressure on them was 2500 psi.
Hi glen, I always thought injectors where very complicated items till I took them to bits, its only nuts and bolts, and springs lol
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 exactly my thoughts too Barry, feeling stupid after all these years thinking they were complicated lol, anyway, am stuck in the past as it is so modern stuff (computer electronics) is way out of my bracket, we have nothing agricultural stuff on my farm any older than 2003, so needless to say we can at least fix it ourselves, have three David Browns l might ad too, there here on my farm in Wisconsin, l just bought non than other a David brown 900 from my uncle who lives near market Rasen Lincs, it’s actually been refurbished, all about nostalgia lol 🙂
Another very interesting video I buy alot from mayhill found them extremely helpful everytime
it's funny but when you find a business that is helpfull, knowledgeable and genuinely wants to help you do tend to stick to them as well as sing there praises, good companies deserve to be recognised
thanks for watching
Barry
The thread looks to be a ‘special.’ Sounds like it’s 60 degree truncated form with the major (not the true major) diameter at 0.809” or 20,55. However, remember, this is truncated so the nominal size or major diameter is more likely to be a 21,0mm. Truncating the thread is a normal/common practice and helps to prevent damage. The only way to tell for sure is to measure the ‘effective’ diameter and to do this you need some small diameter wires (small drills can also to used) and a bit of that red grease to hold them against the 60 degree flanks. Easy to reproduce on a lathe but I suspect difficult to find off the shelf.
Hi Nat, very many thanks for that i know I've learned a lot from it but I also know loads more people will also learn from it.
brilliant amny thanks for the comments
Barry
Hello,
Just found your channel recently and was wondering did you ever dismantle and service the injector pump?
Many thanks
Hi sparks I did, I took it down to it's last component, cleaned everything and put it back together, unfortunately it was before the video series started, how ever if your looking for the support or help to do it have a look at bundybearsshed, Lance has a couple of video's on the cav pumps, there all the same, funny enough once you see it come to bits, it's not rocket science and you will manage no probs.
many thanks
Barry
Good teacher
Thank you! 😃
for your kind words
Barry
Hi BARRY I TOOK the head off my 880 to get the valves ground should I run each piston down as far as it will go and hone the cylinders or would that make to big a mess to clean up this my first head job and I’m learning from you also I am going to put new injector nozzles in the head I TOOK OFF HAD A COPPER GASKET IS THAT STOCK FROM FACTORY COULD I RE USE THAT OR WOULD YOU USE NEW ONE THATS FIBER WITH METEL PISTION RINGS THANKS TOM B
Hi Tom, no don't hone the bores with the pistons still in as you'll end up with a two stage bore, even though it's small, I wouldn't use the copper gasket again, Try to find a replacement one, I'm not a fan of the composite gaskets, i'm on to my second one now, if you find copper ones lets know where you get them as I'll be changing mine.
I find with the composite gaskets there is nothing that stops the collant transferring from the block to the head from soaking into the gasket material, the first one I put in leaked and when I took it off the gasket was soaked and corrosion had began around the head studs. So if you find a copper one lets know,
Many thanks
Barry
Nice work. I have a question for you about purging the water out of my DB 990 fuel system. The question is really just what is the basic procedure for purging. I’ll just see if you’re still reading these and if you are I can elaborate. But I’m mostly worried about the high pressure pump and the nozzles.
Hi Aldergate, to purge water from the fuel, start at the tank, theres a drain bung under the tank remove and drain,
remove all filters, water seperation bowl and remove the timing inspection port on the pump, you need to allow all the contaminated fuel to be removed. clean, flush, wipe and replace, new filters, clean fuel and bleed through
this should get rid of your problem, but then you need to work out where the water came from and prevent it from happening again.
many thanks
hope this helps
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 Hey Im Dean, and thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it and what your doing with that DB990. That all makes a ton of sense. Without running you through all the details Ill get that water out and I think it came from, either melting snow or accumulation in the water separator. Just so I'm clear, are you saying essentially if I get all the water out of the fuel lines, filters, (new filters), and the best purging I can do while the lines are free from the injectors. Then connect the injectors ( with clean fuel) it should start up after several turns. To be clear no removing the pump, or injectors? There is going to be some water in the injectors. Again thanks in advance.
Hi Dean, thats right, crack it open at even point and push clean fuel through the system, tightening up as you go along the system, one final bleed once your upto the injectors and then start it, if there's any watwer in the injectors it will get pushed out very quickly,
how long has it stood with water in it? was it running? or had it stopped because of the amount of water in the system,
when you take the timing cover off the DPA pump catch the liquid in and old, clean jar and let it settle, just to see if there's any water in your pump.
but everything should be fine with clean fuel.
many thanks and good luck
Barry
just a quick question, this hasn't be outside with the exhaust left uncovered or submerged in water at some point? if so and you suspect water in the cylinders , then pull the injectors before you try and turn it.
Barry I too just bought a d.b. 880 selectamatic thank to you I got the water out of the hyd system had to drain it three times it had no hyd filter on it so now it’s got pitting on valves from rain getting exhaust so while I got head off would you clean injectors ? I don’t have a way of setting pressure like you did could I mark where nut was and get it back in place where it was?whats your openiion on this matter thanks Tom. B.
Hi Tom, the nut on the injector is just a lock nut, it's the threaded cap that sets the pressure, you could test them in away by simply poping them back on the injector pipes outside the engine and turn it over to see if they are atomising the fuel as it leaves the nozzles, shouldn't be any jets or dribble's, if it needs nozzles they're easy enough to find, but look for a simpathetic injection shop to set them up for you, for instance my local guys would supply the nozzles for between £5 and £10 and set them up for a little more. stay away from the big commercial ones, not unless you've got some spair eye's.
your valves you may be able to lap the pits out with grinding paiste, again I had mine proffessionally cut and the head scimmed for £120 at a local engine engineering works. Most local companies know we're not made of money when restoring old tractors and when they can help they do, cash and a hand shake always helps as well.
lets know how you get on
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 THANKS BARRY WISH I LIVED NEXT DOOR TO YOU. TOM
cheers Tom,but I know lots of people whe are pleased they don't lol
It look's wery Nice 👍Nice sprey now and She is Ready Soon. I was wondering ....do you Know any shop in your city/area Where I can order a little/medium size box with tool's for making treat's ( bouth inside and outside tread) for cleaning treads to my massey ferguson 65 here .. So it must be same as your treats on the David Brown ( is it inch ?? 😊 ) you Know here in norway They only have millimeter treads so I need for Englich tractor haha ...like size 7/16 And down in size and allso Little bigger Than 7/16 and prize like around in the middel range . Not super cheap and not expensive. And I shop that do online and send it to norway .. Thanks so much in advanse and Thanks for the video .. She is Coming a long wery nicely . Michell. Norway 😊👍🚜
Hi Michell nice to hear form you again, I use a company call Tracy's tools in the UK, very cost effective and nearly all my tap's/die's are carbon steel as I'm only repairing threads, but they do have HSS tap's/dies as well. really good prices.
thanks and your viewing is very much appreciated
Barry
Thanks so much Barry I Will try look that web page Today so I can look there and find like 7/16 UNC and like fine treads (F) Nice ud I can find a Little box for the tractor because it Goes so easy when its clean wich I like wery much ..Thanks so much for your Help Barry.. See you Soon.. have a Nice sunday . Michell. NORWAY 😊👍🚜 🚜 🚜
@@Masseyferguson65 Hi Michell, I've just had a look at tray tools and they have 7/16" unc and UNF for £3.00 per tap
you'll find them very reasonable for tools and really quick with the postage
love your vid's
Barry
How many psi?
2575
Probably was a M26x1.5mm, turned down to 1 inch out diameter, hense the square on thread top, a special, not run of the mill thread, possibly for a reason like trying to thread on thin walls etc.
Cheers Nik,
I still have the old nuts I'll try a tap in and see,
Many thanks
Barry
@@manfromthemist1958 If I'm right will still have to cut the missing part of the thread if the nut is of the same type. In a normal cut M16x 1.5mm nut (still not the standard pitch for 16mm), that special bolt will work fine. Seen many peculiarities of the sort when mixing imperial and metric products and markets, like my UK made Case1694. (David Brown actually) Love your content. Have a good day.
@@nikspanakis Cheers Nik, many thanks for the interaction
Barry