Forgot to mention too; squeeze the throttle all the way open. While the trigger is full depressed, you can disconnect the linkage back by your finger. Little finesse, but you shouldn’t have to take the carb out to do it. I don’t want to come off as a know it all expert either. Just want to share a few tricks. I restore these, and port them on occasion. It can be maddening with some of the stuff Mac did with these. I hate to see folks struggle with extra steps and want to get the info out there. Again, I’m a huge fan and really enjoy your channel! Thanks
old stuff, nice to see it! my humble 2 cents: chain on mac looks dull, those red "worms" - silicon for a gas tank, also seems there was old gas in the tank - not a good idea to run on it, if I understood correctly from the video. I do like these old things because they are simple and good materials there, run without a problems, cannot say the same for ex for my stihl 029 which is a pain in the bottom place just to run it stable every time. From video I can see that you are not a big fan of these old things - I was not too, but I just tried to disasseble couple old saws and understsnd how they was designed and from my point of view old design has more advantages than modern. Yes, they are slower, but stable and reliable like AK-47, and require more oil in the gas, I just use 40:1 green cans from Home Depot and it works perfect for all So, Boedy, maybe it's just worth to try to love it (like Billy Ray for ex) and invest some time, you will like them more and more than now and hope to see some wackoffs with these tractors in the future:) Like your channel, peace
I find that pulling on my old Mac 1-43 a few times before I flip the switch on helps it fire but I don't run it frequently. Good to see some classics running though
Yes… yes it does! I learned that as a young kid working on a logging crew… way before the primer bulb… smart old timers would leave the saw “off” and you don’t yank like a nut job but you pull your cord out for four or five strokes… you are basically working your cylinder and you are blowing shots of air through your impulse lines and working your carburetor diaphragm… which is basically pumping up your fuel… you simply pull out your choke and roll it up to the compression cap… leg lock start… you are just twisting your back… you don’t yank on anything… a little firm 12” stroke pop’s it through the compression stroke and she’ll pop! Then you flip the choke and roll it up and pop it over and she’ll light off and purr like a kitten! In very cold winter it’s 6 primer stroke’s on the old 066! The Husqvarna saw’s need 3… if you play around with it you can learn what your saw’s want and then you’ll start on the second pull every time… after you’ve got here primed. I’ve been a fan of the primer bulb since it started being introduced… it’s just a great way to purge the air from the fuel system and to make sure that you have fuel in your line’s so when you start pulling the rope that you are pumping up fuel… the longer that they have been setting the more chance that they have lost a little prime… that’s why a leaking needle or a piece of crap near the seat will make your equipment much harder to start… I never expect a saw to start on the first pull… I do two pull’s then flip the ignition on! LMFFAO! Little twist from the leglock position…. Easy peasy! I’m lazy so I like to do things the easiest way possible usually! Ahahaaa!!!
👍 just my two Pennies- guessing the scoring was there already. I know you tried starting it with the switch off and I am assuming you had the low jet correct- seemed like it loaded up way too much on the first start and restart. Kind of like a bad piston/cylinder seal.
Gotta clean and tune it before you hammer it man. Dirty air filter, gummed up cylinder and that exhaust…oof, carbon kills. The saw didn’t seem to four-stroke out of the wood either, so it’s not surprising it quit on you with the fuel issue too. You can get the muffler out by removing the front shroud hardware on then bottom. Have to bend the sheet metal back a bit. It’s tricky, and agreed not the easiest to work on. I really enjoy your content. I can’t wait to see where you take this McCulloch from here!
Nice older saws Brodie. Bummer about the rings failing. Make some more great content replacing rings or maybe repair the gas tank correctly.Thanks for sharing
Go homelite! Too bad about the Mac.. Hopefully you eventually will be able to do a proper comparison, I hate working on macs.. Homelites are by no means perfect but easier to work on
I collect and use the older chainsaws. I an 70 years old started out with a XL12 my father bought new. Good gas is very importaint. Now this sounds stupid? I buy the very cheepest ethanol gas. I put 4 gallons in a can and add a quart of the Wal Mart Super Tech 2 cycle oil. then I add a pint of distilled water and shake that up really good. Let it set a day or two and carefully siphon out the top three gallons for my chainsaws. That last gallon I pour into a glass gallon jug. Its colored blue and I can visually see the clear water and ethanol mix at the bottom. That goes into a tractor with a settlement bulb. I attempt to leave the clear in the glass gallon jug. However the tractors settlement bulb will catch any that I miss. Now every gas tank gets condensation dont matter if it a transport truck , a storage tank or whatever. If you buy the ethanol free high dollar gas. there isnt any ethanol to absorb any condensation water that is present. We have video on our channel of chainsaws and tractors running on the fuel that I mix.
The Xl 76 is the same 58 CC as a Super Xl 12. That 76 will not have any more power that a XL12. We have a XL101. its also 58 CC. It was slated to replace the XL12 however gas tank problems cause it to be discontinued. It only weighs 10 pounds. My opinion The 76 is nothing more than a super XL12 in a fancy dress. We have a Lombard thats 68 CC and it really performs and is almost as loud as the XL101.
@@novicelumberjack well yeah makes sense. Its like heating up somthin with a blow torch if you hold it on the heat for nonstop it gets really hot (obviously) but if you give it heat then let off and repeat that. It wont get as hot as fast. Same concept. And do you port your own saws? Just curious
@@playingwivwood Yeah, it totally makes sense. I just think that if a saw can't move out the heat we'll enough to cut at a consistent full throttle through the cut, it is either to hat to be a work saw, or it should get some breathing mods to help it move the heat out better. If one of my saws was running so hot as to require throttle blips for momentary cooling, that's bad. I'd be richening it up or getting it to flow better. Yeah, I port my own stuff. Except for the ThunderKitten. It was ported by Charlie Briscoe. Your throttle blips do look cool though. You really run a saw like a cool guy. And that is not sarcasm. I seriously like watching it.
A saw that runs good will not need the blips. I have ran several saws for hours on end stoppning just to re fuel. Not a single problem with heat. But i tune them just a hair richer than the WMs tells you to.
BMW’s!!! LMFFAO!!! Right… tear it down completely to see the piston’s!!! LMFFAO! You needed to do that to get all that filth off those fins and out of it’s case’s… is your piston scratched up! Spin it in your hand while you’re holding a sheet of 1500 wet dry…wet..,underneath your sink…warm water… having little horizontal rings or bands running even and horizontal will hold the oil molecules and it will run for a long time! It’s not supposed to be smooth inside your engine…. That silicone is probably blocking the fuel filter and that would make it a little leaner??? It’s not like you adjusted the carburetor wrong buy turning the high jet all the way in… it’s wasn’t over reving when you were cutting… it definitely had a super dull chain and believe it or not that can let your saw over rev some as your chain isn’t providing enough load to pull the RPM down… if you rewatch your video you’ll see it making dust and not big fat chips… the homelite was slinging fat chips during it’s run. I can definitely tell you that that little run didn’t make your marks… but the dull chain and that not wonderful looking fuel that was in it… in combination on the last time that it did run a couple hours…most likely started it’s decline. Clean it up and slap her back together…. I have good luck with my sheet of 1500 and a little tune up… pick them ring grooves spotless… maybe some new rings for her???
Forgot to mention too; squeeze the throttle all the way open. While the trigger is full depressed, you can disconnect the linkage back by your finger. Little finesse, but you shouldn’t have to take the carb out to do it. I don’t want to come off as a know it all expert either. Just want to share a few tricks. I restore these, and port them on occasion. It can be maddening with some of the stuff Mac did with these. I hate to see folks struggle with extra steps and want to get the info out there. Again, I’m a huge fan and really enjoy your channel! Thanks
Definitely a huge difference between oak , and Doug Fir. That Homelite is pretty cool, I've always liked the looks of those.
old stuff, nice to see it!
my humble 2 cents: chain on mac looks dull, those red "worms" - silicon for a gas tank, also seems there was old gas in the tank - not a good idea to run on it, if I understood correctly from the video.
I do like these old things because they are simple and good materials there, run without a problems, cannot say the same for ex for my stihl 029 which is a pain in the bottom place just to run it stable every time.
From video I can see that you are not a big fan of these old things - I was not too, but I just tried to disasseble couple old saws and understsnd how they was designed and from my point of view old design has more advantages than modern. Yes, they are slower, but stable and reliable like AK-47, and require more oil in the gas, I just use 40:1 green cans from Home Depot and it works perfect for all
So, Boedy, maybe it's just worth to try to love it (like Billy Ray for ex) and invest some time, you will like them more and more than now and hope to see some wackoffs with these tractors in the future:) Like your channel, peace
I find that pulling on my old Mac 1-43 a few times before I flip the switch on helps it fire but I don't run it frequently. Good to see some classics running though
Yes… yes it does! I learned that as a young kid working on a logging crew… way before the primer bulb… smart old timers would leave the saw “off” and you don’t yank like a nut job but you pull your cord out for four or five strokes… you are basically working your cylinder and you are blowing shots of air through your impulse lines and working your carburetor diaphragm… which is basically pumping up your fuel… you simply pull out your choke and roll it up to the compression cap… leg lock start… you are just twisting your back… you don’t yank on anything… a little firm 12” stroke pop’s it through the compression stroke and she’ll pop! Then you flip the choke and roll it up and pop it over and she’ll light off and purr like a kitten! In very cold winter it’s 6 primer stroke’s on the old 066! The Husqvarna saw’s need 3… if you play around with it you can learn what your saw’s want and then you’ll start on the second pull every time… after you’ve got here primed. I’ve been a fan of the primer bulb since it started being introduced… it’s just a great way to purge the air from the fuel system and to make sure that you have fuel in your line’s so when you start pulling the rope that you are pumping up fuel… the longer that they have been setting the more chance that they have lost a little prime… that’s why a leaking needle or a piece of crap near the seat will make your equipment much harder to start… I never expect a saw to start on the first pull… I do two pull’s then flip the ignition on! LMFFAO! Little twist from the leglock position…. Easy peasy! I’m lazy so I like to do things the easiest way possible usually! Ahahaaa!!!
The air box on the Mac looked pretty dirty, might have chewed on some dirt for a while hence the scoring. Nice saws!
Do a compression test on it. The xl was running pretty good
👍 just my two Pennies- guessing the scoring was there already.
I know you tried starting it with the switch off and I am assuming you had the low jet correct- seemed like it loaded up way too much on the first start and restart. Kind of like a bad piston/cylinder seal.
Gotta clean and tune it before you hammer it man. Dirty air filter, gummed up cylinder and that exhaust…oof, carbon kills. The saw didn’t seem to four-stroke out of the wood either, so it’s not surprising it quit on you with the fuel issue too. You can get the muffler out by removing the front shroud hardware on then bottom. Have to bend the sheet metal back a bit. It’s tricky, and agreed not the easiest to work on. I really enjoy your content. I can’t wait to see where you take this McCulloch from here!
Pretty big wood for 50cc class saws. I probably would have picked a nice 12-14” round.
Same thing happened to me with my buddy's 10 10. Started strong then fell on its face. Found out it was time for a rebuild lol
Nice older saws Brodie. Bummer about the rings failing. Make some more great content replacing rings or maybe repair the gas tank correctly.Thanks for sharing
Damn dude I wish I had your computer skills! Bad ass intro !
Thanks Josh.
How is the sxs doing after your little encounter with the wayward tree?
You got to have a different line of thinking to love those old Macs.
Go homelite! Too bad about the Mac.. Hopefully you eventually will be able to do a proper comparison, I hate working on macs.. Homelites are by no means perfect but easier to work on
Ahahah loved the disassembly. I feel yea
Safety 1st!
The old Macs would let go of the chrome for no reason sometimes.
Little Red Barn 2 the rescue. 👍s🔼 Big Guy!
I collect and use the older chainsaws. I an 70 years old started out with a XL12 my father bought new. Good gas is very importaint. Now this sounds stupid? I buy the very cheepest ethanol gas. I put 4 gallons in a can and add a quart of the Wal Mart Super Tech 2 cycle oil. then I add a pint of distilled water and shake that up really good. Let it set a day or two and carefully siphon out the top three gallons for my chainsaws. That last gallon I pour into a glass gallon jug. Its colored blue and I can visually see the clear water and ethanol mix at the bottom. That goes into a tractor with a settlement bulb. I attempt to leave the clear in the glass gallon jug. However the tractors settlement bulb will catch any that I miss. Now every gas tank gets condensation dont matter if it a transport truck , a storage tank or whatever. If you buy the ethanol free high dollar gas. there isnt any ethanol to absorb any condensation water that is present. We have video on our channel of chainsaws and tractors running on the fuel that I mix.
Poulan 245a. Give that a try. Love my dad's
I own one.
Your chains on the Mac is looking dull??!
The Xl 76 is the same 58 CC as a Super Xl 12. That 76 will not have any more power that a XL12. We have a XL101. its also 58 CC. It was slated to replace the XL12 however gas tank problems cause it to be discontinued. It only weighs 10 pounds. My opinion The 76 is nothing more than a super XL12 in a fancy dress. We have a Lombard thats 68 CC and it really performs and is almost as loud as the XL101.
Gotta do the throttle blips so they dont get so hot.
That's why you do that?! Always wondered. Not saying I agree, but at least now I know what's going on in some guys heads.
@@novicelumberjack well yeah makes sense. Its like heating up somthin with a blow torch if you hold it on the heat for nonstop it gets really hot (obviously) but if you give it heat then let off and repeat that. It wont get as hot as fast. Same concept. And do you port your own saws? Just curious
@@playingwivwood Yeah, it totally makes sense. I just think that if a saw can't move out the heat we'll enough to cut at a consistent full throttle through the cut, it is either to hat to be a work saw, or it should get some breathing mods to help it move the heat out better. If one of my saws was running so hot as to require throttle blips for momentary cooling, that's bad. I'd be richening it up or getting it to flow better. Yeah, I port my own stuff. Except for the ThunderKitten. It was ported by Charlie Briscoe. Your throttle blips do look cool though. You really run a saw like a cool guy. And that is not sarcasm. I seriously like watching it.
@@novicelumberjack hahahah thank you. Gotta cut with style😂 and good work on your porting them saws scream
A saw that runs good will not need the blips. I have ran several saws for hours on end stoppning just to re fuel. Not a single problem with heat. But i tune them just a hair richer than the WMs tells you to.
Check out Tinman and he “companies”
about how much you have to disassemble/reassemble to work on much of any Macs.
BMW’s!!! LMFFAO!!! Right… tear it down completely to see the piston’s!!! LMFFAO! You needed to do that to get all that filth off those fins and out of it’s case’s… is your piston scratched up! Spin it in your hand while you’re holding a sheet of 1500 wet dry…wet..,underneath your sink…warm water… having little horizontal rings or bands running even and horizontal will hold the oil molecules and it will run for a long time! It’s not supposed to be smooth inside your engine…. That silicone is probably blocking the fuel filter and that would make it a little leaner??? It’s not like you adjusted the carburetor wrong buy turning the high jet all the way in… it’s wasn’t over reving when you were cutting… it definitely had a super dull chain and believe it or not that can let your saw over rev some as your chain isn’t providing enough load to pull the RPM down… if you rewatch your video you’ll see it making dust and not big fat chips… the homelite was slinging fat chips during it’s run. I can definitely tell you that that little run didn’t make your marks… but the dull chain and that not wonderful looking fuel that was in it… in combination on the last time that it did run a couple hours…most likely started it’s decline. Clean it up and slap her back together…. I have good luck with my sheet of 1500 and a little tune up… pick them ring grooves spotless… maybe some new rings for her???
You Novice. Breaking shit right outta the gate. 😂
I know! After mulling it over, I betcha it is a fuel problem. Clog or something.
The wrong kind of silicon.
Port a eagerbeaver