I inherited this tool like 9 years ago and it’s been sitting in my toolbox since and I never knew what it was for... learn something new every day courtesy of UA-cam
Honestly I lived in upstate NY for years and have relined dozens of cars. This tool is ok and will work. If you plan on doing a lot more lines in the future spend a couple hundred dollars and buy the hydraulic flaring tool. It does inverted, bubble and push connect lines. Well worth the money and way easier to use.
ok...thanks...most people dont do it in that volume....I use a flare tool on my motorcycle chain that is sort of like that...Should i spend a couple hundred dollars on an hydraulic flaring tool or can i muscle it...? hm....
Also. Put a small chamfer on the outside edge of the line and deburr the inside after cutting it will really help the quality of the flare. One more thing it helps to use a little oil and when you put the line on the car you may have to retighten it a few times to get a good seal. Good luck ya'll
Had a brake line let go and good thing my garage door was open, I was pulling up to my garage and when I hit the brakes the pedal went to the floor. Thank God for an emergency brake and quick thinking. The calcium chloride they use to pretreat the highways during the winter here in Connecticut do a job on your steel brake lines. I changed them over to copper nickel lines.
if you were living out in the country side and the closest store near you is 50 miles away. You may want to get creative and use sand paper to clean those hose line and remove all the loose rust scales then start the flaring.
Thanks for the video. I am new to this so I was flaring an existing line and had the same problem you had. Finally, figured that it was the old line that was causing the flaring to fail. Bought new brake line and the flaring went well.
Good video on how to use a flaring tool. Another YT video on how to use the tool shows a guy using some lubricant on the line and die so you can get even better results. Also, on ANY lines I replace, (fuel, brake, oil, etc.), I give each end of the line a couple of shots of compressed air to ensure the line has NO debris in it. Thanks for posting this video. Keep up the good work! 👍
Great video, thank you for the thorough content. One thing I would like to know, if you have to replace the line from the master cylinder that has a flexible section, if you cannot replace that flexible section, can you put 1 or 2 loops into the line and can you discuss that in the video?
So why can't my brand new tool do a double flare on 1/4" steel lines ... I've tried everything the tool just slides forward.... I've even used a hammer to pound the nipple in all the way ..the tube just wont crush correctly the walls are too thick for the first flare to happen ...I just needed to quick fix to get it home so I tried a single flange and now the ends are slow leaking ...now stranded, if I bleed them can I make it home as long as I keep the reservoir topped off?
The last inch or so on mine is crusty and it snapped off while trying to undo it,I’m going to use this technique to put a new end on it by extending it
I did my entire brake lines on my Jimmy and spent the entire day trying to get good flairs. No matter how good they looked they still leaked. So I bought some 45 degree washers and they worked perfectly, no leaks. Just go on amazon and search for 45 Degree Copper Flare Fitting
i have a rusty metal line who coming from the front of the vehicle before its connect to the rubber hose (the rubber black hose is connect to the caliper) this rusty pipe is only rusty for 30cm at the end of it what i need to connect a new one only for these 30cm ? can i get male and female fittings?
I’m new to brake line flaring. I have a problem where I cannot remove my brake line nut (rounded and frozen) to replace my caliper. Would this tool be necessary to use for my problem?
The the brake line itself is rusted, then you have to replace that segment. If the brake line is good then you can cut it flush with the nut, take the caliper out and use a six point socket and a torch to help free the nut, then you can use a flare tool to re-flare the line and if there isn't enough slack, to attach additional line to make it longer to reach the caliper. If the brake line is rusted in too many spots, you should replace the entire line.
Same problem I have right now with my mustang. Main brake line from master to rear drivers broke. Can’t get a good flare on the old line to put in a union. The nicop line flares so easy. Then when you try to flare the old line it’s a horror show. 2 days of wasted time. I really don’t want to run all new line. Ugh
+Itz Chaparr0 Thank you for watching. Thin lines of rubber in some cases may be used, but you would need to refer to the specific size from the OEM manufacturer. 1aauto.com
If you flare under the car forget about this Old Ways you will fail. Buy the Titan flaring tools 3/16 I did flare under the car without failing. And again I flare under the car with this old ways fail me so like 3x I give up and then buy the TITAN flaring tools 3/16 takes me only one time.
Not a good tool. Virtually impossible to use on the vehicle in a tight space when a full pipe replacement is not needed or when 2 new pipes need joining under the vehicle. I only ever use the much smaller and more efficient SAE hand held flare tool . It will also do slightly rusted pipe like in your video. That brake pipe is still very very strong, look at all that shines corrosion free meter oak that is shown by your “bad flare” A true test of a compromised brake pipe would be to snap it on camera??
Great tutorial. But had to give the video 👎 for 1A Auto always putting a horrendous amount of 3rd-party commercials and then another 1A Auto commercial embedded into tutorial. 😒
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Don't forget to put your fittings on first.. LOL
Thank you for your feedback! +Trinity Moen
Thanks man this saved me so much time
Lmao
This comment is so underrated
A mistake you really only make once
I inherited this tool like 9 years ago and it’s been sitting in my toolbox since and I never knew what it was for... learn something new every day courtesy of UA-cam
Honestly I lived in upstate NY for years and have relined dozens of cars. This tool is ok and will work. If you plan on doing a lot more lines in the future spend a couple hundred dollars and buy the hydraulic flaring tool. It does inverted, bubble and push connect lines. Well worth the money and way easier to use.
ok...thanks...most people dont do it in that volume....I use a flare tool on my motorcycle chain that is sort of like that...Should i spend a couple hundred dollars on an hydraulic flaring tool or can i muscle it...? hm....
Also. Put a small chamfer on the outside edge of the line and deburr the inside after cutting it will really help the quality of the flare. One more thing it helps to use a little oil and when you put the line on the car you may have to retighten it a few times to get a good seal. Good luck ya'll
Thanks for the extra tips, I really appreciate that!
Me too !!
Thnx for showing the comparisons as well as how to actually use the kit.
Had a brake line let go and good thing my garage door was open, I was pulling up to my garage and when I hit the brakes the pedal went to the floor. Thank God for an emergency brake and quick thinking. The calcium chloride they use to pretreat the highways during the winter here in Connecticut do a job on your steel brake lines. I changed them over to copper nickel lines.
+Dennis Rodgers Thanks for checking us out!
How have copper nickel held up?
Is that material better than stainless?
I live in Wisconsin
if you were living out in the country side and the closest store near you is 50 miles away. You may want to get creative and use sand paper to clean those hose line and remove all the loose rust scales then start the flaring.
Thanks for the video. I am new to this so I was flaring an existing line and had the same problem you had. Finally, figured that it was the old line that was causing the flaring to fail. Bought new brake line and the flaring went well.
+Juan Alejandro Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
I wish car manufactures give you an option for stainless break lines and hardware like you can select a comfort package or subwoofer.
But then ppl dont die and population doesnt go down like they want and it wont rot out either so less money for them
@@micc4044 Haha so fkn true
Thanks for the tutorial. I need to do this for my antique car as all the brake lines need replacing.
Good video on how to use a flaring tool. Another YT video on how to use the tool shows a guy using some lubricant on the line and die so you can get even better results. Also, on ANY lines I replace, (fuel, brake, oil, etc.), I give each end of the line a couple of shots of compressed air to ensure the line has NO debris in it. Thanks for posting this video. Keep up the good work! 👍
Oil and brakes dont go together
Great tutorial! Thank you for this.
Thank you. Just needed to see how the fitting looked after the flare.
+Christian Garibay Thanks for checking us out!
Excellent video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video it really helps now im going out and fix my brakelines
+Radar Thanks for watching. Please keep us in mind in the future if you need automotive parts! 1aauto.com
Great video, thank you for the thorough content. One thing I would like to know, if you have to replace the line from the master cylinder that has a flexible section, if you cannot replace that flexible section, can you put 1 or 2 loops into the line and can you discuss that in the video?
So why can't my brand new tool do a double flare on 1/4" steel lines ... I've tried everything the tool just slides forward.... I've even used a hammer to pound the nipple in all the way ..the tube just wont crush correctly the walls are too thick for the first flare to happen
...I just needed to quick fix to get it home so I tried a single flange and now the ends are slow leaking ...now stranded, if I bleed them can I make it home as long as I keep the reservoir topped off?
The last inch or so on mine is crusty and it snapped off while trying to undo it,I’m going to use this technique to put a new end on it by extending it
I did my entire brake lines on my Jimmy and spent the entire day trying to get good flairs. No matter how good they looked they still leaked. So I bought some 45 degree washers and they worked perfectly, no leaks. Just go on amazon and search for 45 Degree Copper Flare Fitting
+Banditt Thanks for the feedback!
You put them into the fitting?
thanks a milliion!
+Billy Jones Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for making me safer
I've been practicing on old lines before I do my new ones and getting shitty results....is this why?
Yes always use a new line when possible. New ones are hard enough to get a good flare on
Your old lines are probably steel. Get some new copper nickel line and practice on it, as it is easier to work with.
i have a rusty metal line who coming from the front of the vehicle before its connect to the rubber hose (the rubber black hose is connect to the caliper) this rusty pipe is only rusty for 30cm at the end of it
what i need to connect a new one only for these 30cm ? can i get male and female fittings?
I’m new to brake line flaring. I have a problem where I cannot remove my brake line nut (rounded and frozen) to replace my caliper. Would this tool be necessary to use for my problem?
The the brake line itself is rusted, then you have to replace that segment. If the brake line is good then you can cut it flush with the nut, take the caliper out and use a six point socket and a torch to help free the nut, then you can use a flare tool to re-flare the line and if there isn't enough slack, to attach additional line to make it longer to reach the caliper. If the brake line is rusted in too many spots, you should replace the entire line.
arent you guys suppose to bevel/chamfer a 45 angle around the OD of the Tube ??
Same problem I have right now with my mustang. Main brake line from master to rear drivers broke. Can’t get a good flare on the old line to put in a union. The nicop line flares so easy. Then when you try to flare the old line it’s a horror show. 2 days of wasted time. I really don’t want to run all new line. Ugh
I can dig it!!! 🛠️👍
+T'Real Williams Thanks for checking us out!
Nicopp.... criminal to use anything else
I hate those flaring tools, there are so much better tools out there on the market.
Thank you!
+J Griff Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
i have over 15 pices of flare on my uniform.
and you took my red stapler!
So you mash it twice right?
play at 1.25 speed.. sounds normal this guy talks way too slow
Cheers 👍🏻
Thanks for checking us out. Shop here for high quality auto parts: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c +Stuart oliver
I think I need to have less brake line sticking out of the flaring clamp, the practicing flare was bigger than the original.
so you guys sell brake lines, and can thin lines be use for fuel also?
+Itz Chaparr0 Thank you for watching. Thin lines of rubber in some cases may be used, but you would need to refer to the specific size from the OEM manufacturer. 1aauto.com
If you flare under the car forget about this Old Ways you will fail. Buy the Titan flaring tools 3/16 I did flare under the car without failing. And again I flare under the car with this old ways fail me so like 3x I give up and then buy the TITAN flaring tools 3/16 takes me only one time.
Good lord and here I am trying to barder 800$ to 1500$
Sir how much if i buy. I'm here in phillipines.
I use copper nickel lines
+Rays Garage Thanks for checking us out!
🔥😯
Oh look the brakelines off a chevy silverado
Not a good tool. Virtually impossible to use on the vehicle in a tight space when a full pipe replacement is not needed or when 2 new pipes need joining under the vehicle.
I only ever use the much smaller and more efficient SAE hand held flare tool .
It will also do slightly rusted pipe like in your video.
That brake pipe is still very very strong, look at all that shines corrosion free meter oak that is shown by your “bad flare”
A true test of a compromised brake pipe would be to snap it on camera??
Great tutorial.
But had to give the video 👎 for 1A Auto always putting a horrendous amount of 3rd-party commercials and then another 1A Auto commercial embedded into tutorial. 😒
Just make them out of stainless. How is this not a Federal safety issue?
Stainless steel lines are damn near impossible to flare with that tool. Or maybe it's just the brand that autozone carries... they're garbage!
+_ MyLastName Thanks for the feedback!
bom