Acetates in perfumery. Basic chemistry for perfumery.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 6 лют 2021
- Video on understanding molecular diagrams: www.youtube.com/watch?v=il_mM...
In depth; how the reaction works: www.masterorganicchemistry.co...
Listen as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Web store: lux-terra.co.uk/
Instagram: / sam.macer
It's great that more and more channels are being created that are dedicated to providing knowledge about perfumery, because it's hard to get that knowledge even in the internet age. Thank you
Yes it's a bit surprising isn't it! I think the real reason it's only happening now is to do with the ease of obtaining ingredients getting better.
Because not enough emphasis is being put on what makes a fragrance transmigrate into It's diffusive state. If that can't be achieved, we wouldn't have the term, per-FUME-ery.
love this kind of video Sam, thanks!
This is a great video, helped a lot! Thank you Sam
Thanks!
thanks Sam from argentina! all your videos are very useful 💪💪💪
Cheers, thank you!
Really enjoyed this video Sam, learnt a lot from this buddy ☺️👍
Thanks Will, I hope you're doing well
Lovely format, very informative! You could suggest some archetypical combos with them (linalool&linalyl acetate for example) to get some additional hints of their use, but I love the format. Immensely grateful for posting It!
Thank you. I'm not aware of any archetypical combos myself as my only observations are those laid out in the video - sorry I couldn't help more!
Loved this blackboard video ❤️
Thank you!!
Love this video, man. I'd probably rename it, to be honest. Make it into a series, like "Chemistry Basics In Perfumery" or something like that. Keep up the good work. (I'd love to see more like this.)
Cheers and thanks for the suggestion :)
Very helpful video. I was just wondering about this. Just discovered C3H acetate and to my nose it smells like those ring pop & push pop candies u get at dollar stores. Using it in a lime fragrance I’m working on 👍🏼
One drop at 5-10% dilution does if for me
Yeah it's super strong - glad you've found a good use for it!
Very useful vid btw.
Thanks!
So you would use the acetate version for its unique version of the scent or if you are looking for attitional complexity in a scent (sweeter version)? Are there any other reasons you'd use acetates in perfumery?
The way I would look at it is like in colours; you can have green and metallic green. Both are similar but can be used to give different effects in different situations. There's no right or wrong time to use a certain thing, it's just artistic preference.
Very nice to learn and understand how reactions can change the smell.
I’m cureous if you can show examples of 2 different unique scents that form a completely different scent together which doesn’t come close to what they smell like individually:D?
And... what are the complete don’ts in the perfumery industry, ingredients that form not fitting and harmonized scents?
Thank you for sharing all the knowledge🙏🏻🙃
Greetings
Hey Iris,
Thanks for the question, it's quite complex to answer though. Basically for the effect of the acetate group changing the scent, the best thing you can to is try an acetate and non-acetate version for yourself, like the ones I talked about in the video (you can buy them online).
And for complete don'ts; well there are no hard and fast rules apart from ensuring you don't go over the IFRA safety limits for your raw materials. In general a lot of things smell bad together so you will need to try out combinations yourself until you gain a working knowledge. There's no way a book can teach you all of this.
I hope that helped somewhat!
I really enjoy learning the chemistry side of things. Thank you Sam! Not sure if you'll come back to this video but if you do, can you tell me the difference between Perfumer's Alcohol and Organic Sugarcane alcohol. Why would someone choose Sugarcane over regular PA?
I have never heard of Organic Sugarcane Alcohol before but I had a quick look and it seems like you could maybe use it instead if you wanted.
Keep it Up bro, Love from Pakistan.
Thank you!
Nice vedio sam
Cheers
I cant wait to get to know Dihydro Myrcenyl Acetate and also Cedrol. Yes, and how does Benzol smell like?
Benzyl acetate doesn't smell very nice on it's own, it smells a bit like glue / solvents. It's often used in floral accords though, especially jasmine.
I actually like the freshness of it. Also I have a formula for Moment Supreme from Jean Patou which is from 1929, and there it is used in high dosis. I was wondering about its counterpart Benzol (benzene), didn't really think too much of it being poisonous by inhaling, haha.
@@mybad4101 Great to hear. Yeah for sure you want to steer clear of benzene as it's highly carcinogenic. Definitely don't use that in a perfume.
Benzyl acetate and amyl acetate together smells like nail polish.
GREAT
Thank you
I heard that ethyl cyanoacetate is a perfume ingredient. Perhaps you can throw some light on it as to its function.
Unfortunately i’ve never heard of that raw material, sorry!
@@sammacer Thank you for your reply
When I smell geranyl acetate I just get a PVA glue smell. I wonder if I can't smell it properly.
Exactly! When I smell geranyl acetate, I don't get any "fruitiness" or "soft floral" vibe. To me it smells sour and harsh.
Interesting. I wonder if you guys have a lower quality version or if we're just perceiving it differently. Mine certainly isn't sour, harsh or glue like!
@@sammacer Mine is from a very well known and well regarded UK supplier (I'm sure you can guess) so I'm sure the quality is ok. It was a free sample so I'm not too worried.
I also get the exact same smell from hexyl benzoate, which is more annoying as I did pay for that one.
I'm assuming it's some kind of anosmia with these materials.
@@andyrnb4923 I get it from Benzyl Acetate - I wonder if you get the same with that?
@@sammacer I have never smelled that one Sam. Still building up my stock!