If this ever fails in the future, I'm probably going to be tasked with repairing it. So I need to think this out for less future problems and fix it now.
Rob you probably know about Temu they sell alot of items. Stainless steel hardware for one just bought some 1/4- 20 fender washers for my old outboard cover rubber mounts supports. Pretty cheap two packs of 40 for around $5.00.Steves car is looking good no stone overturned when your at the helm nice finish work....
Rob, If the screws you replaced in the tail-light braket that holds the housing in place, use loctite(242) blue. It will prevent the screws from backing out, and it will prevent the S.S. treads from galling, if that's screwing into aluminum, which it looks like. But you probably know that already. As well as maybe use dry spray lubricant like a silicone spray in the channel. Electricity, running a piece of copper brade from a good chassis ground to the back of taillight housing. Since the light housing will be trying to get the ground from the moving parts, it might have galvanic issues over time or an intermittent of a good ground. You could, If you don't have any braded wire, you could use the wire inside the jacket of RG6 coax(TV cable), not the core. The shield will be flexible and handle the current. You could use it to shield the 3 wires you're running to that housing as well.Just run the wires inside like the Chinese finger cuff. It's not too bulky, and it will look good holding the wires inside of it. I used to work in an aircraft company skunkworks, so I kind of know what I'm talking about. Remember to shape the wires in an S shape to allow for movement of the door. That will prevent chafing and pinching down the road. All you would need is a small 0 ring strain relief around the sheet metal hole. Good luck on what ever you do since that's a tight area. I hope there isn't too much current running through that micro switch I saw since it's very close to fuel vapors, and that switch probably isn't hermetically sealed. If it sparks, the vapors will ignite after fueling. I once saw a fire from an auto alarm switch from behind a license plate area after filling the car. Again, good luck.
question/suggestion 1: could you seam seal the fuel filler insert from the back side {inside the quarter panel} to combat the road debris problem? 2: could you drill a hole below and to the left of the fuel cap for the light wiring { the black painted part it appears to be sheet metal} that would allow you to use a grommet and wire loom the wiring? That would let the wiring be horizontal to the ground and next to the quarter panel when the tail light housing is open. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us.
Rob, I agree with you about that taillight, but Steve wants it. You can only do what you can! Is the cap vented? You can lead a horse to water but you caint make him drink! I hope Steve realizes how good you really are! Always enjoy your videos! Thank you!
That 55 is an absolute beauty.
Rob you probably know about Temu they sell alot of items. Stainless steel hardware for one just bought some 1/4- 20 fender washers for my old outboard cover rubber mounts supports. Pretty cheap two packs of 40 for around $5.00.Steves car is looking good no stone overturned when your at the helm nice finish work....
Rob, If the screws you replaced in the tail-light braket that holds the housing in place, use loctite(242) blue. It will prevent the screws from backing out, and it will prevent the S.S. treads from galling, if that's screwing into aluminum, which it looks like. But you probably know that already. As well as maybe use dry spray lubricant like a silicone spray in the channel.
Electricity, running a piece of copper brade from a good chassis ground to the back of taillight housing. Since the light housing will be trying to get the ground from the moving parts, it might have galvanic issues over time or an intermittent of a good ground. You could, If you don't have any braded wire, you could use the wire inside the jacket of RG6 coax(TV cable), not the core. The shield will be flexible and handle the current. You could use it to shield the 3 wires you're running to that housing as well.Just run the wires inside like the Chinese finger cuff. It's not too bulky, and it will look good holding the wires inside of it.
I used to work in an aircraft company skunkworks, so I kind of know what I'm talking about. Remember to shape the wires in an S shape to allow for movement of the door. That will prevent chafing and pinching down the road. All you would need is a small 0 ring strain relief around the sheet metal hole. Good luck on what ever you do since that's a tight area. I hope there isn't too much current running through that micro switch I saw since it's very close to fuel vapors, and that switch probably isn't hermetically sealed. If it sparks, the vapors will ignite after fueling. I once saw a fire from an auto alarm switch from behind a license plate area after filling the car.
Again, good luck.
question/suggestion 1: could you seam seal the fuel filler insert from the back side {inside the quarter panel} to combat the road debris problem?
2: could you drill a hole below and to the left of the fuel cap for the light wiring { the black painted part it appears to be sheet metal} that would allow you to use a grommet and wire loom the wiring? That would let the wiring be horizontal to the ground and next to the quarter panel when the tail light housing is open. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience with all of us.
Cool stuff. 😎👍😎
Rob, I agree with you about that taillight, but Steve wants it. You can only do what you can! Is the cap vented? You can lead a horse to water but you caint make him drink! I hope Steve realizes how good you really are! Always enjoy your videos! Thank you!
Fill tube vents.
Nice. Your fine details just changed the game on the tail light. Looking gd
On the wiring issue. I thought about the street rod door to jam wire loom spring system. Could use something similar.
Cannot believe those gas door micro switches are out in the open.
So, where is the vent on the screw on gas cap Rob?
The fill tube is vented