Some more mistake to avoid when new to sharpening on a 1x30
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- Опубліковано 13 гру 2023
- So I have been helping a new sharpener and I wanted to share with everyone some of the mistakes I saw him doing that are very common on belt sharpening. To find links to most of the gear I use you can visit my for sharpeners section of my website. www.alexandriaknifesharpening...
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Great explanations. I have a lot of questions but will watch more of your content to pick up what I can. Thank you for taking the time to put these videos together they are a great help
Glad it was helpful!
Getting such a microscope was one of the best 35 bucks I have spent in years....thx for the advice....Had a cable bound one years ago n IT sucked...never looked into Them again BUT this WiFi ones....AMAZING thx for Sharing all your little Secrets n ideas n stuff ....really appreciate Them....n I am in the knife Game for 15+ years...kudos 👍😁
glad your finding it helpful
Thanks for the education. I'll have to watch your other videos.
thanks please do
Thank you for yours very helpful videos.
Glad you like them!
Great tip on the sharpie on the honing wheel. Thank you for what you do
No problem-Stay sharp!!!
Fantastic video! Always great information. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff to keep in mind.
Thank you
This is a great video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
I suggest the “knife deburring” book by knife grinders. Great pdf with lots of practical info. Pretty cheap too
I have it read but it was years ago. I like most of what he says but I have some issues with some of his things. I am not a fan of Rock Hard felt has never worked great for me. I can never get it to run smooth and it not cheap and hard to get. I like the leather flap wheel much better and even felt belts, but we all find what works best for us over time.
Thank you Paul
You are very welcome
I'm 57, and I was taught by my grandfather almost 50 years ago to hand sharpen knives. I got really good, but wanted to make it easier (on me). Let's face it, setting an initial angle by hand on a new or abused knife by hand is difficult and VERY time consuming, especially when working free-hand.
About a week ago, I bought a Harbor Freight 1 X 30 sander/grinder and have been practicing (free hand) until the custom angle guides I designed are fabricated. For NEVER having used a machine before, your videos have been extremely helpful and informative.
Free-hand, I've had about 50% success, where most of the knives have been sharpened and stropped to an insane level of sharpness, the others, not so much. Not yet having an angle guide, my most difficult knives are smaller, pocket knives or knives that are less than 1.5 inches wide.
It seems that my biggest issue is wanting to over strop the blades and get that "mirror finish" AND a razor edge. While some of my issues are a direct result of not using a guide (and so not keeping an exact angle during the stages - especially when stropping edge-trailing), but I've simplified my process, only doing 2 stages: At the moment, I start with a 120 grit belt, until I get a proper burr (both sides - THANK YOU for teaching me that), then going straight to a leather strop - I've gotten my sharpest results (to date) doing it this way.
I was curious about the difference between using quality felt belts VS leather belts. I won't ask "Which is better?" because it's an impossible question, so my question is what are the differences in the two? Is one more forgiving, easier for a machine novice?
Thanks
I have used felt belts and own one i use it for stubborn burrs it's great. Its also good for alcohol based diamond sprays holds them well. You can have very good results with felt belts....So yes I'm a fan of them, and got mine from Cliff Curry
I use a x60 jewerly loupe to check the tip of the knife. It really helps to check if it's properly pointy. Just be very careful, it's quite easy to round the tip at that magnification.
yes that works for some
Thank you for the well detailed lessons on knife sharpening. Can you also tell me what kind of machine you use for this, where i can find it andpossibly a price indication.
Thank you in advance, Bart
If you watch my channel trailer it points out all the links to the items in my shop and where to find them I keep an ongoing list with links on my website as well under the for sharpeners section www.alexandriaknifesharpening.com/sharpening
@@ALXSHARPEN Thank you for the super fast response. 👌👍
My ryobi propane heater is awesome for heating the garage.
I thought about that but was concerned I would go through a tun of gas I am using a Dr infared heater and it does a really good job amzn.to/3tnPTwS
What are the 3 sand grinders in your video? So glad I found your channel.
At the top of my channel are links one it to my website where I have a page dedicated to the gear I use and links to the majority of things I use. There are also links for where I get my abrasives belts most I get from Curry’s Custom Cutlery
@@ALXSHARPEN Thank you
Just got a Toolcker and am getting everything set up, but I'm finding that using the angle guide scratches the knives. There always seems to be metal shavings that get on the guide and make a mess of the blade. I'm using blue tape on the guide, but i can't imagine that's the problem. I've watched all of your videos and Cliff's and I'm not sure how you guys don't have the same problem. Would like to get your thoughts.
Solutions I'm considering: tape the knife blades before sharpening, vacuum or compressed air to clean off the guide after every stroke, wipe the guide with a rag after every stroke. All of the options are time consuming though. Thank you
The only time it’s an issue for me is highly mirrored knives and that’s no matter where I work on them and also when I put on new abrasives you want to look out for loose particles scratching them it’s generally not the metal it’s usually abrasive particles from belts that can get stuck on things I have had it happen with rags so vacuum often especially after a new belt change should not happen with Trizact belts the really don’t seem to shed particles but Cubitron and other similar do check you guides for any sharp parts you may have missed and change your tape regularly I use Green frog tape it’s the slickest and runs more smooth than blue tape.
@@ALXSHARPEN Great feedback and thank you so much! It did happen with a new cheaper belt since I hadn't received my trizact belts yet. I'll keep experimenting and will follow your recommendations. I agree with you about highly polished finishings and I think I'll just tape the blades just to be safe. That's one thing I never have to worry about with my Ken Onion Blade Grinding Attachment sharpener. I am amazed at how much quicker the Toolcker edge leading method is though. Crazy fast! Thanks again!
I’m curious about the heat generation from the belts, you’ve clearly been doing this a long time, and it’s only relatively recently been studied in depth by great metallurgical minds like Dr Larrin Thomas (regarding different effects on the heat treated microstructure of the cutting edge etc.), but I read somewhere that even relatively low increases in temperature can effect the heat treated hardness and edge retention of high carbon blade steels… so I’ve been mucking around with different methods of sharpening without raising the edge temp, I’ve landed on some incredible edges (for me) from hand sharpening with diamond stones and then honing with buffing wheel or leather stropping/honing belt using super fine grit diamond compound. I’ve only been using diamond stones because so far D2 is the softest I’ve been working on, through to S35VN, and now M390 and 20CV, all EDC knives; (not professionally, just my own knives).
So I’m curious if you’ve done any edge hardness testing after different methods on hardened steels?
It looks like kitchen knives are your bread and butter (which I think are usually medium carbon?), but presumably you do other knives too. I’ve got some belt grinders for knife making including 1x30” and I’ve bought some trizact and cubitron belts but I’m nervous to use them because of the heat generation, I bought a rip off Tormek a couple of years ago (before I knew what a Tormek was), but I haven’t gotten around to even taking it out of the box yet because it seems like a lot of work…
Any knowledge or insight would be appreciated, particularly if you’ve tested edge hardness after the belts…
Excuse the long windedness, it’s an OCD cross ADHD thing 😂 cheers!
In my experience it's rare to damage a heat treat with sharpening. Now all of my machines are custom variable speed so I don't have to worry as much with my belt machines because I don't run them fast. A non converted HF 1x30 in my opinion is a bad idea not just because of heat but control and material removed. I also do all my high end knives on my Tormeks.
My 1x30s are mostly for general kitchen knives I also use CBN on my Tormeks and they generate almost no heat and that's where I do my higher value knives. I sharpen a lot of high end EDC'S ...I have sharpened high carbon on everything imaginable and no issues at all...In the last 4 years I have only had maybe 2 knives I felt someone had damaged the heat treatment on. What happens is just as you get it close to finished the entire apex break off like a long wire. It's pretty crazy but also not very common in my experience. I have many customers who have their knives sharpened once a year and have never seen any I felt where heat damaged by and of my gear the ones I'm most careful with are trizct belts they can get hot but as long as you keep moving and don't linger you won't over heat a knife if your also on a machine that not running far to fast.
@@ALXSHARPENHow do you "convert" a single speed 1x30 ?
I am totally NEW to knife sharpening, I’m watching many you tube videos..but nothing so far talks about “Scores”..wow are the scores made?
BESS Score is a push cut test measured by a BESS tester they sell them at sharpeningsupplies.com its a helpful tool but not cheap
Do you have any videos on belt types, grit, and progression?
I can definitely do one I have mentioned my progression many times it’s generally 120 Cubitron ,A30 Trizact (800 grit) ,A15 Trizact (1200 grit ) leather strop with 1 micron diamond spray then 3 micron diamond on a leather round flap wheel. That’s the Cliff notes version but I’ll do an entire video on belts because that’s a good idea you had.
Thank you for your "Police Service"