X-ray film is either blue-sensitive (like 1880 dry plates, only faster) or "green sensitive" (meaning orthochromatic). The bad news is that it loses a stop or two of speed (down from the revised ISO 10) when the light is redder, like under tungsten lights or when the sun is low in the sky; the good news (which you didn't take advantage of) is that you can handle it under a red safelight, like enlarging paper. Also, you can get Arista .EDU Ultra 100 in 4x5 for about the same price (a little more in the same size package, same price per sheet if you buy a box of 50), and it's a "normal" panchromatic film. It loses almost no speed due to light color, has a lot more choices for development (I currently like XTOL stock a lot, but I've used HC-110, Parodinal, Diafine, and home-mixed D-23 on it), and is much more resistant to scratching (with harder emulsion, and only on one side).
@@gavinjenkins899 No doubt, you can save big if you have the facilities and skill to recut larger X-ray yourself (and the fact you can do it under dim red safelight makes it easier). X-ray that's precut to 4x5 carries the same kind of premium that commercially rerolled 620 does: you're paying for someone's time and skill to do the format conversion. Film Photography Project had it last time I checked, for the same price per sheet as a slightly larger box of Fomapan 100 from B&H or Freestyle.
@@gavinjenkins899 Recutting (especially with a safelight) isn't rocket science, but it's an added challenge for someone who might still be learning to load film holders and develop sheet film. I'd recommend buying Fomapan or (identical) .EDU Ultra for beginners. One new challenge at a time, please.
I work in a vet hospital and we don't use sheets anymore, we use some sort of digital chassis made by Fujifim, the thing is expossed to the x-rays and then read by an special machine also made by Fuji (a FCR XL-2 CR) that turns the image into a digital file, and then, with a magnetic charge, erases the image so the chassis can be used again. However, if I remember my x-ray imaging classes from college, the say "analogue" chassis for x-ray has a special back made to get more of the ionizing radiation coming from the x-ray tube and intensify the image you get from the exposure. And, traditional radiographic film is also made from silver halide crystals (either silver chloride or more commonly silver bromide) but the emulsion is sensitive to gamma/x-rays. Cheers!
I will cede to your knowledge but in every analogue x-ray machine I’ve seen there is a phosphor layer that is excited by high energy radiation and emits visible / uv light for film exposure. The film itself is an orthochromatic emulsion or a blue sensitive one.
@@iNerdier Hmm it's been years since I used a film sheet for imaging, but I remember the use of P, but I don't remember what was supposed to do (maybe something in the film chassis). As for the emulsion being orthochromatic, I don't really know, the image that we use is made from tthe expossure to x-rays and not visible light, so It being panchromatic or orthochromatic wouldn't make any difference for us, haha. Cheers!
Just got my first roll of super 8 back from pro8mm ..... it came out fantastic!! Even the parts I shot indoors.... I’m so happy ...this is a amazing format, and I will be shooting a ton of it!! Totally hooked.... thanks Noah
Awesome! I'm awaiting my first super 8 film back from processing right now. 😎 Can't wait to see what I've got, hope I'm half as happy as you are with yours.
That film is surprisingly clean looking ... granted 10 ISO is almost like paper. ha ha. This makes me want a field/folding camera so bad. Monorails are exhausting ...
I shoot 45x32cm double sided green sensitive x-ray film and the biggest problem I have with the stuff is it’s so incredibly soft. You can scratch the stuff practically by breathing on it, I’m amazed how they used it normally. Never encountered the problem you’ve had with exposure but I’m surprised at those developing times, if you’re going to use dilute anything that much I would heavily suggest that you do stand development to see if it’s your exposure or development that’s at fault. The x-ray developer I got with mine is painfully strong (and makes great, very cheap paper dev).
Thank you fir this video. I was looking into this, but the low iso is something new to me. Develop thin negatives is almost a norm and i dont understand if its the film i have or did my developer go bad. Finally got a better Lightmeter and than improved
I managed to snatch a box of 100 sheets of blue Agfa x-ray 35x35cm film for 30$, so I'm doing some trial and error like you did to make out its characteristics
Double sided emulsion x-ray film is not equal on both sides. You want the film the proper orientation in your film holder. The extra emulsion on the film for x-ray is for faster exposure times and to decrease the dosage. For photography you want single sided emulsion vs double sided and you want high detail film which will produce less contrast but high detail. Sharpen your images in post and be sure you have plenty of light. Cut some film to fit in your 35mm camera. One shot at a time but could be fun.
You are absolutely right about the emulsions on the different sides being not equal. When used in a camera which one would you face toward the lens? The one intended to face the light emiting foil or the other? You are also right about double sided being a disadvantage for pictorial photography. But as you noticed, the hipsters can not think, they take for granted what the seller present them as an advantage.
@@gavinjenkins899 Sharpness is not an issue if you remove the umbra side of the emulsion. It is pretty minor but if you want the best use the thick emulsion side and remove the thin side if you are using double sided emulsion. If you can find single side you will be better off. Even the thickness of the emulsion and how it is laid on the film can cause a slight umbra effect which will cause less sharp edges. Can't really get away with that one and for the most part most couldn't see it anyway without super magnification.
@@gavinjenkins899 Its been a long time since using x-ray film after it pretty much went away years ago in favor of digital. There is a way to know but I don't recall. If you buy xray film that is in original boxes for actual xray cassettes it will be marked. If you are buying cut up xray film Im not sure exactly how you'd know.
That explanation about how the digital ICE feature on Epson scanners was interesting. It sounds like it should still work for dye based monochromatic film like Ilford XP2?
Hi, I just saw your video on how to load 35mm film. I put the film in and as soon as I close it, and take one picture to get it going, the whole role winds and then rewinds.. what am I doing wrong? Does that make sense? The entire roll will process as if I’m taking a ton of photos and then it’ll rewind all back up, in about 20 seconds
Sounds like something is broken in your camera. I'm thinking either the film sensor (failing to detect you've loaded film) or the frame counter (failing to count eight sprocket holes and then stop).
don't throw away your money on that fpp junk. you can get fuji super hr-u in blue sensitive or orthochromatic at about 80 iso for literally 10 times less on ebay.
I love the fact that you are willing to try anything and then improve upon your results. You remind me of me. I was a big fan of Kodak black and white infrared film. Early in my use of the film, I photographed an incredible composition with beach umbrellas on a beach in Florida. It was the most interesting photo on the roll but negative was thin like your results here. But I didn't give up. I printed a useable 11x14 print after so much trial, error and wasted paper. But the journey is fun, so I do it.
Can you explain which type of film I need to buy for my super 8 camera? There’s double super 8, double 8 and then regular 8 and I just want to know the difference and which one I need. I’m ok with loading film in cartridges but I really want to be sure what I need to load. Thx in advance.
For Super 8 you just want strictly Super 8 film! Super 8 film comes in a plastic cartridge and there's no loading necessary. Regular/double/standard 8mm comes on a spool and is for 8mm cameras only and not Super 8 cameras. Double Super 8 also comes on spools and is only for Double Super 8 Cameras. If your camera takes a cartridge in the film compartment then it needs Super 8 film!
Analog Resurgence thanks a lot! My camera takes super 8 but it came with three reloadable cassettes. This may be just Soviet thing bc I know in that time svema was often making 35mm film not in canister and you had to load them yourself. So I need just super 8 only and not sliced double super 8 or anything else.
i paid $135 canadian for my speed graphic. my most expensive lens was $90, second most was around $20. got all my darkroom equipment used for maybe another $100 at most and x-ray film costs me under 15 cents per shot.
I would have expected it to be a much lower iso Edit, you answered that 😁 I remember a video by grainydays who was shooting x-ray film at 1 iso Edit again, it was actually 0.06 iso ua-cam.com/video/8rMbX8Lj2Dw/v-deo.html
X-ray film is either blue-sensitive (like 1880 dry plates, only faster) or "green sensitive" (meaning orthochromatic). The bad news is that it loses a stop or two of speed (down from the revised ISO 10) when the light is redder, like under tungsten lights or when the sun is low in the sky; the good news (which you didn't take advantage of) is that you can handle it under a red safelight, like enlarging paper.
Also, you can get Arista .EDU Ultra 100 in 4x5 for about the same price (a little more in the same size package, same price per sheet if you buy a box of 50), and it's a "normal" panchromatic film. It loses almost no speed due to light color, has a lot more choices for development (I currently like XTOL stock a lot, but I've used HC-110, Parodinal, Diafine, and home-mixed D-23 on it), and is much more resistant to scratching (with harder emulsion, and only on one side).
@@gavinjenkins899 No doubt, you can save big if you have the facilities and skill to recut larger X-ray yourself (and the fact you can do it under dim red safelight makes it easier). X-ray that's precut to 4x5 carries the same kind of premium that commercially rerolled 620 does: you're paying for someone's time and skill to do the format conversion. Film Photography Project had it last time I checked, for the same price per sheet as a slightly larger box of Fomapan 100 from B&H or Freestyle.
@@gavinjenkins899 Recutting (especially with a safelight) isn't rocket science, but it's an added challenge for someone who might still be learning to load film holders and develop sheet film. I'd recommend buying Fomapan or (identical) .EDU Ultra for beginners. One new challenge at a time, please.
I work in a vet hospital and we don't use sheets anymore, we use some sort of digital chassis made by Fujifim, the thing is expossed to the x-rays and then read by an special machine also made by Fuji (a FCR XL-2 CR) that turns the image into a digital file, and then, with a magnetic charge, erases the image so the chassis can be used again.
However, if I remember my x-ray imaging classes from college, the say "analogue" chassis for x-ray has a special back made to get more of the ionizing radiation coming from the x-ray tube and intensify the image you get from the exposure. And, traditional radiographic film is also made from silver halide crystals (either silver chloride or more commonly silver bromide) but the emulsion is sensitive to gamma/x-rays.
Cheers!
I will cede to your knowledge but in every analogue x-ray machine I’ve seen there is a phosphor layer that is excited by high energy radiation and emits visible / uv light for film exposure. The film itself is an orthochromatic emulsion or a blue sensitive one.
@@iNerdier Hmm it's been years since I used a film sheet for imaging, but I remember the use of P, but I don't remember what was supposed to do (maybe something in the film chassis).
As for the emulsion being orthochromatic, I don't really know, the image that we use is made from tthe expossure to x-rays and not visible light, so It being panchromatic or orthochromatic wouldn't make any difference for us, haha.
Cheers!
Just got my first roll of super 8 back from pro8mm ..... it came out fantastic!! Even the parts I shot indoors.... I’m so happy ...this is a amazing format, and I will be shooting a ton of it!! Totally hooked.... thanks Noah
Awesome! I'm awaiting my first super 8 film back from processing right now. 😎 Can't wait to see what I've got, hope I'm half as happy as you are with yours.
This is my go to film for my Graflex. I’ve found that it works much better when shot at ASA 2.5 rather than the box speed.
Any video samples or samples for this. Id like to buy but nit afywr seeing this video
That film is surprisingly clean looking ... granted 10 ISO is almost like paper. ha ha. This makes me want a field/folding camera so bad. Monorails are exhausting ...
Speed Graphics aren't terribly expensive, and much easier to use than a monorail. I know, I have both.
I bought a 4x5 graflex crown graphic and 2x3 graflex century graphic I haven't used the crown graphic yet but I love using my century graphic
Cutting X-ray sheets quite challenging, if you go for smaller frames
Loved this style of video! keep it up, love your videos :)
I shoot 45x32cm double sided green sensitive x-ray film and the biggest problem I have with the stuff is it’s so incredibly soft. You can scratch the stuff practically by breathing on it, I’m amazed how they used it normally. Never encountered the problem you’ve had with exposure but I’m surprised at those developing times, if you’re going to use dilute anything that much I would heavily suggest that you do stand development to see if it’s your exposure or development that’s at fault. The x-ray developer I got with mine is painfully strong (and makes great, very cheap paper dev).
Fixer for X-ray film always incorporate hardener.
Thanks for another awesome video! Looking forward to more 4x5 videos.
Love the way you shot this!
Thank you fir this video. I was looking into this, but the low iso is something new to me. Develop thin negatives is almost a norm and i dont understand if its the film i have or did my developer go bad. Finally got a better Lightmeter and than improved
Who says you can't use Ice or ISRD infrared based dust and scratch removal on X-ray film? Check the manual and working method for the scanner.
what, if any impact does the double emulsion have on sharpness etc? Thanks for sharing this information
I managed to snatch a box of 100 sheets of blue Agfa x-ray 35x35cm film for 30$, so I'm doing some trial and error like you did to make out its characteristics
Double sided emulsion x-ray film is not equal on both sides. You want the film the proper orientation in your film holder. The extra emulsion on the film for x-ray is for faster exposure times and to decrease the dosage. For photography you want single sided emulsion vs double sided and you want high detail film which will produce less contrast but high detail. Sharpen your images in post and be sure you have plenty of light. Cut some film to fit in your 35mm camera. One shot at a time but could be fun.
You are absolutely right about the emulsions on the different sides being not equal. When used in a camera which one would you face toward the lens? The one intended to face the light emiting foil or the other?
You are also right about double sided being a disadvantage for pictorial photography. But as you noticed, the hipsters can not think, they take for granted what the seller present them as an advantage.
@@gavinjenkins899 Sharpness is not an issue if you remove the umbra side of the emulsion. It is pretty minor but if you want the best use the thick emulsion side and remove the thin side if you are using double sided emulsion. If you can find single side you will be better off. Even the thickness of the emulsion and how it is laid on the film can cause a slight umbra effect which will cause less sharp edges. Can't really get away with that one and for the most part most couldn't see it anyway without super magnification.
@@gavinjenkins899 Its been a long time since using x-ray film after it pretty much went away years ago in favor of digital. There is a way to know but I don't recall. If you buy xray film that is in original boxes for actual xray cassettes it will be marked. If you are buying cut up xray film Im not sure exactly how you'd know.
4:12 is my favorite thing I’ve ever heard anyone say haha
I like what he said at around 4:40
That explanation about how the digital ICE feature on Epson scanners was interesting. It sounds like it should still work for dye based monochromatic film like Ilford XP2?
I believe it is fine on the C-41 processed black and white stcoks like XP2!
Ayyyyyy I wanna shoot this stuff too❤️. Good shots for sure❤️
Hi, I just saw your video on how to load 35mm film. I put the film in and as soon as I close it, and take one picture to get it going, the whole role winds and then rewinds.. what am I doing wrong? Does that make sense? The entire roll will process as if I’m taking a ton of photos and then it’ll rewind all back up, in about 20 seconds
Sounds like something is broken in your camera. I'm thinking either the film sensor (failing to detect you've loaded film) or the frame counter (failing to count eight sprocket holes and then stop).
don't throw away your money on that fpp junk. you can get fuji super hr-u in blue sensitive or orthochromatic at about 80 iso for literally 10 times less on ebay.
“You either hate me... or... you didn’t watch the video”
I love the fact that you are willing to try anything and then improve upon your results. You remind me of me. I was a big fan of Kodak black and white infrared film. Early in my use of the film, I photographed an incredible composition with beach umbrellas on a beach in Florida. It was the most interesting photo on the roll but negative was thin like your results here. But I didn't give up. I printed a useable 11x14 print after so much trial, error and wasted paper. But the journey is fun, so I do it.
Yes more more. Also do you have a Pentax 6x7 that you could make a video on ??
How would you compare this film to Adox 25?
Thanks.
Can you explain which type of film I need to buy for my super 8 camera? There’s double super 8, double 8 and then regular 8 and I just want to know the difference and which one I need. I’m ok with loading film in cartridges but I really want to be sure what I need to load. Thx in advance.
For Super 8 you just want strictly Super 8 film! Super 8 film comes in a plastic cartridge and there's no loading necessary. Regular/double/standard 8mm comes on a spool and is for 8mm cameras only and not Super 8 cameras. Double Super 8 also comes on spools and is only for Double Super 8 Cameras. If your camera takes a cartridge in the film compartment then it needs Super 8 film!
Analog Resurgence thanks a lot! My camera takes super 8 but it came with three reloadable cassettes. This may be just Soviet thing bc I know in that time svema was often making 35mm film not in canister and you had to load them yourself. So I need just super 8 only and not sliced double super 8 or anything else.
I always wanted to shot 4x5 but it is abit too expensive
i paid $135 canadian for my speed graphic. my most expensive lens was $90, second most was around $20. got all my darkroom equipment used for maybe another $100 at most and x-ray film costs me under 15 cents per shot.
For me, your first batch was under developed…
Dude!,clip test your developers, 35 mm strips,half dilute hc 110,but,I I love microphen.10asa.cut one sheet into 35 strips.
I would have expected it to be a much lower iso
Edit, you answered that 😁 I remember a video by grainydays who was shooting x-ray film at 1 iso
Edit again, it was actually 0.06 iso
ua-cam.com/video/8rMbX8Lj2Dw/v-deo.html
Your friends pretty cool Jared Polin doesn’t like Pentex he says there’s only maybe one or two people that bought that camera LOL
Rodinal supposedly works better
ur so cute
should I go digital?
analog= like
digital=comment
First.
One question: WHY?
Answer: Why not?
Because x-ray film is cheap as hell compared to Kodak/Fuji brand sheet film. You can get a box of 100 sheets for $40 vs $225 from Ilford.